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1Elite Barbering Notes
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8                                                Elite Barbering Notes (Assuming you have basic barber skills)
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12    Fading Principle #1
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15        By default lower the sides and back unless it is certain the top will be 1A(Or 1 guard closed) or lower.
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17        By default if unsure approach the fade as if the top where 2 or 3. Say for instance it where a 3 on top,
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19        The crown area would be a 1 1/2, 1A or 2 depending on the hair texture, thickness & or if the hair shape
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21        has a curvature(Like the rounded edges of a fauhawk/mohawk) depending if your blending to 1A, 0A or to
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23        skin.
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26        Fading Principle #2 (Blending to skin)
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29        Stretch the 0A region of the blend. It's harder to see a line or uneveness for 4 to 5 or 2 to 3, but real
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31        easy to see 1 Blade to 0A, or 0A to 000 and/or trimmer line to 000. By all means make sure the lines are
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33        knocked out. Doing this gives the smooth transition appearance. You can create a 000 line, bald out under
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35        that, a large 0A margin, a 1 margin(cramped to compensate), & a 1A( or 0 guard and adjustable set to half)margin. Then blend everything inbetween
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37        by erasing lines. Hence raking the clipper over the lines at appropriate adjustments(Higher for higher
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39        adjustment lower for lower adjustment). You can also use adjustables which are good for this by raking
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41        also or simple using the 1, 0A, or a a little above closed(which is a halfway inbetween 0A & 000) or closed
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43        for blending and knocking out lines. Note, if skilled enough in raking and other techniques you can
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45        do a bald fade with a 1A length on top with no guard whatsoever.
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47 
48        Fading Principle #3 That pesky line!
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50       
51        Do not use trimmers dead on for straight hair for fading trying to create that intitial soup bowl line. It is
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53        nearly impossible to get out!!! You can get away with it in curly afro type hair flicking the wrist while using
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55        the corner of the trimmers at an angle against the grain to the line while stretching the skin.  
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57        Also, do not use the razor on straight hair to create the initial line... Even at an angle it is difficult to get out.
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59        Instead with straight hair, create the 000 line angle the trimmers to 45 degrees against the grain stretch the skin and flick outwards 
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63        What IF Fading: What if the fade is a 1A curly hair on top and the 000 line(which is balded out under is 1 fingerwidth above the ear) and the customer asks you 
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65        to lower it on top after it is faded. Since the transition of the fade is hard to see because the blend covers a wide area raise the 000 line to two or three finger
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67        widths above the ear.
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71 
72         Why cut with the grain???
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75         African americans do not have hair that goes straight in one direction at longer lengths  like europeans or asians for example... It often curls at a certain length and the hair shaft tip could point in the exact
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77         opposite direction of where the hair was pointing at a lower length. So, it is critical when cutting this type of hair to know how to cut with the grain
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79         in order to maintain a substantial amount of clientelle with this hair type. Also know the adjustments.... A 1 blade with the grain is a 1 guard against it.
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81         A 1 guard(1A) with the grain is a 2 against it. The benefits of cutting with the grain for this hairtype is a smooth appearance free from stragglers.
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83         Sometimes if there is uneven growth you may have to cut against the grain in an area just to level it with the rest of the head(with the clients permission).
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85         Alot of people with curly hair and that have "waves" prefer their hair to be cut with the grain in the belief against the grain would cut them out.
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87         Never cut with the grain with a fade blade.
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89         Also it is recommended that you use (if doing a dark or reg cesar) a (andis masters blade or 0A andis masters with the grain at a 45 degree angle{you can
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91         rest your pinky and index finger underneath the blade as you push it). Be cautious of the calick.
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93         Also it is recommended that you use the wahl black slide on guard(if it fits your clipper)
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95         Before cutting a cesar with waves verify whether the hair is fine and of high density(usually younger guys or kids) or
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97         coarse and of low density(usually older guys), if fine and dense against the grain will do and if coarse and low density
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99         cut only with the grain with a zero guard on. 
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101         When cutting with the grain cut 2 1/2(calick area first) then drop to 1 1/2 then 0 1/2.
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108        How to lower sides and back (High lengths)
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111        Well, you can use a flat comb & rest it or angle it on the sides of the head and do clipper over comb passes(not recommended for fros unless your using it flush
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113        against the scalp straight up for flat tops). A flat comb flush against the sides can produce an uneven 2 guard length which you may have to go over once with
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115        your clipper.
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117        Or you can use a succession of guards high to low. This is good if you want to transform a
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119        fro into a box fade(flatop) withought taking all day free handing... Then after, freehand it when its already
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121        shaped to sharpen it. If its straight hair you can merely gel it in place and pass over it with a clipper with the flat comb holding it
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123        in place on top.
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125        If the flat comb length on the sides isn't low enough or smooth enough(stragglies) for you, you can snap on a 1 guard open the adjustable
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127        and go with or against the grain depending on the hair type & direction. Or maybe even a 0 guard open(1A)
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129        To be safe work high and go low as a fail safe.
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132        Temple Taper on Fro's
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134        (For curly fine afro type hair)
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136        Well, assuming you pick it out and freehand shape it first, you can snap on a 1 guard open it and angle it in for a downwards
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138        taper and knock the hair down. Remember fro hair lengths spiral outward with no specific grain direction.
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140        Then from there you can reverse the direction your cutting lower in the temple area and go against the grain
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142        with a one guard open(2),. Depending on how light they want their side burns you can taper down lighter gradually.
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144        For instance a 1 or 0A. Another thing you can do is use the 1 blade of your adjustable with a freehand scuplting
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146        like tapering technique to gradually knock the hair down in the sides and back to like a 1A use the adjustable
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148        (the adjustable OPEN) to get light side burns and a taper not down to skin in the back. This basically goes
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150        from not touching the scalp but raking it down higher up in the taper gradually as you go down to the clipper
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152        blade tip touching the scalp lower in the taper. Remember the back taper begins at the occipital bone area in the
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154        back for a referreance. Keep in mind dealing with the fro type of hair gradually spiraling outward that it is harder
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156        to create a line that with that hair grain direction.
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158        For hair that is not quite afro and not quite straight freehanding may be more difficult so you may have to use a mixture of guard usage/freehand/clipper
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160        over comb.
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162         
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164    Temple taper to skin(Bald Taper) on Cesars(originally)  (Waves)
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166        If it is about 1G or 1A on top and sides with the grain....
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168        Go with the grain(0A on blade angled at 45 degrees{a must),0 closed or 0 Guard 1/2 open or 2G{normal with the grain}) on all areas except temple areas and at the back occipital, go against with 0 guard 1/2 adjustable setting, then 0 guard and closed on the adjustable
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170        for temple areas and back occipital.
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172        Make the balding line where the ear starts(Not the top of the earlobe further away from your scalp the top of were it connects to the head at the highest point(where your glasses rest) on the side of the head.
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174        Stretch the 0A a little {be mindful of room and create a 1blade margin)against the grain} keep in mind this cannot be done on temple tapers on fros
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176        because of the many variations of hair coarseness, texture, concentration of hair, and straight or curlyness of hair along with oil and grease in the scalp.
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178        It is easier to blend when you have a shorter max length on top than a longer one.
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180         
181        Temple Taper/Back Taper on straight hair (out grown)
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184        You can lower the sides and back(depending if the hair is extremely outgrown) Taper the temples & back area after that. For
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186        instance, say the  back and sides are like a five after cutting. You lower the temple & back areas (temple area and back area up
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188        to occipital) to a 2 1/2 free handing it for blending. This is what I reccommend from there. Under the 2 1/2 use a 1 1/2
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190        and then a 0 guard half(for adjustables), in gradual succession in the taper for light sideburns. Remember straight & afro
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192        type hair looks different at different lengths. Afro or "curly" type hair looks denser and darker at lower lengths than
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194        straight hair. Nonetheless you can still turn it into a bald taper if the customer prefers.  
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196        An additional thing for back tapers. When blending up after you lowered the back enough(with the rule of thumb start high and go low enough to the point that
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198        you know you'll have enough room to blend upwards low to high. You can make a stylish convex upside down U as the trimmer line in the back and blend upwards to give a
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200        curved fade outwards and up impression.
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203       
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205        Free hand shaping/scuplting for curly hair?
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208        Using your adjustable or trimmers you can use (very carefully) the heel or very tip of the blade. (I.e. 000) to skim
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210        across the surface of the hair gradually knocking out uneven hair clumps & stragglies(Loose hair).  
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212        The more powerful adjustables are good for quick shaping... It will knock out stragglies. But because it cuts fast, precaution
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214        must be taken. The less powerful more precise trimmers(Grey andis),  are weaker and cut a whole lot slower in comparison but again, are more precise.
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216        Can be used for fine details the ultimate smooth surface... Less precaution can be taken. For a fro make sure you pick it first real good then free hand. Don't touch the area
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218        you free handed after.(Via touching the head to move it). Clippers for shaping first, trimmers for sharpening the shape second.
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222        Military cuts(Military Tapers)
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225        A good rule of thumb for straight hair cuts is this tapering technique. If it's a 3 on top(client request), use a
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227        1 at the side burns and 2 at the midsection of the head. If it's a 6 on top, 2 at the side burns, 3&4 in the middle
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229        tapering into the top. (Remember all this is taken into account assuming you got the highest and lowest length from the client.)
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231        Also, the 3 sideburns, 5 midsection, 7 top..... Or simply 357(additionally it can be 3,5,8 with shears on top).
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233        If your concerned about weightlines in those gaps a simple flick of the wrist can do away with them.
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235        If someone comes in asks for a crew cut or short sides but long length on top, flat comb the sides blended into the crown
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237        and shears on top. Hence the sideburns and midsection of the head would be one length blending into the corners(where the
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239        head curves i.e crown) of the head.
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242        One length sides (Non-Military taper)
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245       This is a very attractive haircut in my opinion when sides are short and top lengthy. Someone comes in(with straight hair) and has whatever length on top(say an 8 or 10 or higher),
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247       but the sides are the same until the crown. (Say a 2 or 3). A good rule of thumb. The lines are usually the most defined until about a 3 in length
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249       after this length hair tends to be mobile over the hairline or edgeup... Also 2 and 3 are the lengths involved in military tapers as military members
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251       enjoy shorter clean sides and back also military tapers are common.
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254        Longer straight hair Shear cutting "Peak"
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256        Say the hair on top is about 3 inches long and resting. You put gel in it and comb it to the front. Grasp the hair at the front hairline with 2 fingers.
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258        Then take the shears on cut the very front where as all hair behing that peak is longer. This is very attractive and should help lock down straight hair clients.
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261       Longer straight hair Shear cutting "Combover"  
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263       Say the hair is long on top. The customer wants his sides about a 2 or he shows you a picture that indicates this. Comb the hair on top forward. You lower the
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265       sides blending with the crown without touching the top. Comb the hair over to the left or right.
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267       ensuring there is a clear line between the hair cut by the clippers and the hair cut by the shears. It should be straight and horizontal. Then if the customer
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269       agrees you can make a straight line part on the opposite side of the head(where corner of the edgeup would be for a short lined cut) (over the natural part of the combover).
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271       Comb the hair over to the left or right. Then with shears cut hair that drops over the blend holding it with 2 fingers. In regards curly hair that is processed straight hair gel in combination
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273       with a blow-dryer can be used to straighten the hair and keep it in place.
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278        Cesars Buzz cuts and the good stuff,
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281        Doing smooth cesars on curly hair with the length 1G or 2 1/2 length(against the grain length) . (With the grain!) You can use 1 Blade(which equals 1 guard against the grain or 1A) and angle the clippers to get it smooth (or you can use 0 1/2 wahl guard on masters of fastfeeds with the grain equaling somewhere over a 1 and under a 2)).
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283        Perhaps holding the (Use andis Masters!! Using the blade with fast feeds will mess things up!) 45 degrees to the scalp pushing forward with the grain(heel in contact with the scalp.
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285        This creates a good smooth appearance. If the it is a dark cesar with the grain you can use a wahll black zero slide on guard
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287        (a flat guard that leaves a smooth stray hair free appearance in cesars). Again if you want the hair smoother you can set the adjustment
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289        to 1 using the heel and having the clipper at an 45% angle with the grain to create a slightly lower than 1 Guard smooth appearance, using 0A will get you a 0 guard half open length in result against the gran, still smooth.
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291        with that person keeping their waves of course. Side burns thin!!! Side burns first!!!
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295 
296        What If's
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299        A woman comes in and wants a portion of her hair lowered to a short length like in the new styles the women wear via the hip hop community.
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301        You comb her hair and part the area to be lowered(Usually on one side of the head above the temple) You comb her hair part the area to be
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303        lowered and lower it. Via 1A or 2.
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306        A woman comes in for a cut with a request for tapered sides? (Fresh hair done out of cosmotologist) You snap on the 2 guard & close it and
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308        free hand downward to smoothen the sides....(For african american females with short backs and temples).
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311        There is a calick in a given location for any one of these haircuts?
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313        Depending if it's in a low area when fading it may not matter but for some low curly hair types you may have to adjust to the resting outward
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315        spiral and cut with the grain using the corner of your clippers as it goes outward by default raising the adjustment length for a failsafe,
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317   
318        What If...
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320        The person has a light spot... Well if they want, you can inform them that you can get rid of it.(Depending on how light it is)
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322        With the cost of lowering the sides of the hair or on top... But... If the client wants his hair long on top or the area where the light spots exist
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324        there is nothing you can do, but if it is a light spot on the sides you can lower the sides and make it less noticeable to invisible.  An appropriate description of this
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326        is when a person is balding they grow their hair out the growing hairlength compensates with overlaying lengthy hair obscuring the issue of balding.
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328        Also and vice versa cutting the hair lower to compensate for light areas.
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330        What If...
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333        Theres a little toddler with straight fine hair and he moves alot and the top may require shears. Remember the technique taught in barberschool by wetting
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335        the hair for better control is a negative(if you have to go behind it with clippers and guards). (From rough experience) Escpecially with straight hair because it will stick to the skin with straight fine hair
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337        ecspecially. If it does so your clipper guards won't do their job smoothly. Clipper over comb (Flat comb) to pick up the hair and raise it fast by using 45,
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339        vertical and less than 45 degree angles. Again make sure the clipper dosen't pass the cone teeth. 45 degrees for tapering. Again rule of thumb.... DO NOT WET
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341        HAIR Especially STRAIGHT HAIR OR EVEN WORSE STRAIGHT FINE HAIR ON TODDLERS IF YOU DO DO IT AFTER ALL CLIPPER WORK IS DONE!!!!
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343         
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348        Bald fades, Taper fades, Light fades, Temple Taper, Mohawk/Fauhawk mixtures?
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351        Yes you can mix a bald fade and a mohawk. Yes, you can also mix a crew cut with long hair on top into a taper fade on the sides.
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353        Yes you can make a temple taper flat top, a bald fade flat top, a taper fade flat top.... Yes you can add a temple taper back taper
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355        to a cesar. More than likely you may have used some of the techniques stated to perform these haircut variants.
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358        How to cut sharp with the Outliners and T outliners:
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360        Adjust the blade... Adjust the tension spring.... Oil them... On top of this if trimmers still aren't cutting right use a philips head screwdriver and keep
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362        the blade on the trimmer as you take the front part of the housing off. Push and hold the part that connects to the blade and pull the philips head(whilst it's under
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364        the tension spring) toward you.
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367        Also to have an ridiculous edge on the other barbers in the barbershop order the MD blade for the andis trimmers from Chuka the barber on youtube to line like
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369        a razor.  
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371        Choose derby blades for the straight razor they are the sharpest!!! Also if your sharpening designs or tightening lines by bending the derby blade and using it
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373        with your fingers. Dorco will kind of pull the hair USE DERBY BLADES!!! This is for the easiest and tightest razor line. Get in the habbit of using a bended blade to get hard to reach
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375        areas for a normal straight razor with the handle(like lining the stache under the nose or the lining above and behing the ears.
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378       Additional:
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381       For high N Tights and High bald fades(basically choose high bald fades many the difference is a weight line) Keep in mind the sides has to be real low and blend into
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383       a lowered crown but the hair  top of the head can be lengthy. Remember this is 3 finger width's above the ear(high fade), 2 finger width's if medium fade, and 1 finger
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385       width above the ear (low fade). In order to do a high fade(without weight lines you must have to blend into the curves of the head and crown and don't touch the very top!!) With a high fade your sides have to be real low to permit blending room without weight lines(unless it's a 1 blade fade then it dosen't matter). With a medium fade your sides  and back should
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387       be about a 0 guard open and you'll be fine. A low bald fade your sides can be above a 1 (0 guard open) but at or below a 2 and you'll be fine when it comes to bald fades.
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389       This is if you want to deliver a tight fade... The principle is the same... The longer the hair is on the sides back and crown the less room you have to blend.
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391       Remember fade lengths....
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393       (for average density/coarseness of hair for both straight and curly),
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395       Bald fade length: Sides and back 1 guard length.
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397       Light/Taper fade length: Sides and back 2 guard length.
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400       Additional: In barbershops the litte kids with curly fine and dense hair should get a 1 Blade cesar whenever their parents ask for an even all over. Remember their
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402                   hair is often finer and denser than the adult with curly hair and gets cesars at 1 guard or 1A. At 1 or 2  on their hair may look frizzy with stragglies.
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404                   Keep that in mind. Unless the parent directs otherwise.
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406       Additional: For straight razor edging do eyebrows only for adults.(Childrens skin is often thin in those areas so you can make invisible  tiny knicks you won't see
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408                   till natural welting from bacteria(reardless of clean tools) and guess what? Mad mama. Adults have thicker less sensitive skin overall. Straight razor edgeups are still good for kids though just be aware their skin is often thinner around the eyebrows.
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410                   Remember tug the eyebrow up to get under it and  tug the nose up to get the stash for the razor(adults) and tug the ear down to line it (with trimmers/razor).
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412      Additional: Excessive razor work looks very nice but it takes time. Straight razor shave(around the goatee or beard), Lining the stache and goatee, as well as the hairline, then bending the blade
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414                  and using the bare hand to line around the ears and back hairline or when doing a bald taper or bald fade escpecially balding with the razor.
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416                  Then after all this razor lining the eyebrows. This is time consuming for just $15 and a tip or $20 even. I recommend only using straight razor
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418                  lining after the edgeup around front hairline and goatee. But these are good skills to lock down clients fast initially. Use them until you get backed
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420                  up with customers then switch to again, just a haircut and razor lining the front and goatee which most good barbers do(except for the puerto rican ones they're razor fiends in my opinion).
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422                  Remember to do a wiggle or sketching motion with the razor when you use it.
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424     Additional: For doing lazer line designs because the sharpest line is made above the trimmer blade(where it is flat) and the dullest line is made below(where the moving blade is when you use it dead on),
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426                 when doing individual lines to make it sharp inbetween you most go over it once after the first time, flip the trimmer upside down and follow the previous line.
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428                 Also to make designs with curves in them like smiley faces or what not you must use the corner of the blade and agle it piece by piece. It's good to make 4 dots and connect them to make a circle instead
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430                 of going willy nilly and risking making an oval.
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435        Elite Barbering Equipment
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438        Combs/Guards
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440        10 taper/general purpose combs
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442        2 Flat combs, Pic * 3 sizes
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444        2 full purple magnetic guard sets plus 2 slide on 1/16 black wahl guards
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446       
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448        Clippers
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450        1 Oster Fast Feed  {0 Overgap adjusted(No huge larger than 000 gap) For speedy blending} (To do this take off blade and don't loose any small pieces adjust the silver piece that holds the handle back by loosening the screw on the side, then hold it back with two fingers as you tighten it. Also adjust the metal piece farther up (with the two tong looking things) loose the screws and push it up and then tighten... After all things are tightened put it back together then loosen two screws on blade and push blade back. This should give you a 0000 blade for fast feeds closed if everything is tight.
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452        Andis Improved Masters, as a Backup clipper {Slower but accurate on fades){Reason why it's a different clipper backup is not only because it's good but the fast feed 1 blade or bare blade with the grain is not an option this can take that role. (take off cover plate and loosen 2 star shape screws and push arpeture forward to shift moving blade upwards). To imrove power lighten screws on right side after chasy is taken off and push motor to the left. Also lighten the screws again and push down on motor and then tighten.
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454        1 Andis Fade Masters(With Fade Blade for smooth Fro's)
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456 
457        Trimmers
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459        Andis T-Outliners     (Specially adjusted both blade and tension screw with oil) (For lining{does extremely good lines for most types of hair but because of magnetic motor it cuts slower like the masters)
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461        Wahl Heros(w/T-wide Blade) Back up trimmer  (For Balding and getting rid of those near vellus hairs that the T-Outliners struggle with also creates sharp lines on some fewer hair types(mostly straight hair) that the T-Outliners may not be as good as at)
462 
463        For dominance in trimmer lining in the shop: get sharpening stone (All blade sharpeners should have diamond in it) and sharpen the stationary blade tip  at a 45 degree angle to about a point,(with your fingers resting just above the underside tip of the blade at the edge of the stone so you can see from the side your hand and blade is at a 45 degrees the whole time also your thumb as close as possible to the stone without touching it, the closer the hold the better the control to make it come out even,  make short strokes for additional control, the blade tip is more rounded by the manufacturer(if you don't understand you need a visual).
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465        Try them on yourself(again ensure the blade is close enough to get a sharp line and far enough not to bite).
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467        Get something like hero's or detailers for kids(Keep in mind their skin is thinner and more sensitive),(Especially if your not good at tapping lightly) Just in case keep the adjusted and oiled, Hero's and detailers are known for delivering a sharp line without biting(Keep them oiled!).
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469        (I would get as many as these items I can in black my personal preference i.e. fast feeds w/Andis T-Outliners and T-edgers).
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472 
473        Chemicals/Oils/Sheens/Disinfectant
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475 
476        Andis Cool Care,
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478        Barbicide + Flask,
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480        Oil Sheen(Shea Butter), Oil(for Clippers)
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482        Blade wash, 70% isopropyl alcohol,
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484        Talc, Neckduster/Towels,
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486        First Aid Kit.
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488        Hair Gel
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490        Straight razor w/ change-able blades(Derby Blades!).  
491 
492        (Cost estimate from nothing... $760 dollars you ca get piece by piece not all at once)
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494 
495 
496        To get Barbering job
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498        Use haircuts off facebook
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500 
501                 Clipper disection:
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504                 Andis Improved Masters: Many barbers all time favorite. They are known to do exceedingly well on fades on afro type hair.
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506                 Motor type Magnetic. Comes in 3rd in terms of power in regards to the clipper types (Rotary, pivot, and magnetic).
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508                 This clipper perhaps excels in what it does because of the thinness of it's teeth(moving and stationary blade) doubled
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510                 with the fact that they are closer together making it a clipper of high accuracy for the finer fro like hair types.
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514                 Oster Fast Feeds: These are also very popular with barbers. Compared to the andis masters the moving blade moves slower than
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516                 the masters moving blade(because it is a pivot motor meaning a magnet pulls the blade from both directions while the magnetic motor
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518                 pulss the blade to one direction and a spring pushes it back). It has twice the power of the Andis Masters but the teeth are wider than
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520                 the masters and more spaced apart(With perhaps lower accuracy). But none the less you can leave dark spots with both but dark spots are
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522                 more common with weaker motors, so the more powerful motor nullifies it's  potetial for lower accuracy on very fine and dynamic afro type hair
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524                 in general this clipper blends real well.
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526 
527                 Andis Fade Master: All fade blades snag the skin. But, the teeth are closer together than the masters and the blade is flat. This means high accuracy
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529                 in cutting and also with the flat blade makes it perfect for free handing extremely smooth fros of the finer fro like hairtype. It is identical to
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531                 the andis masters except for the blade and faceplate. This clipper saves you time from going over the fro with trimmers to get it real smooth.
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541       
542                 Clipper Choice:
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544 
545                 At the beauty 21 which I purchase my clippers the owner stated that based on popularity the Andis Masters is 1st, the fast feeds is 2nd. The Wahl five
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547                 star seniors is 3rd.
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549                 The wahl 5 star seniors is excellent for cutting through thick and coarse hair really fast. It has a powerful V-9000 motor. Wahl is known to be used
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551                 more often for straight hair but can also do the job for finer curly afro american hair. Because it has a flat fade blade and because of the back and forth
552 
553                 motion in order to blend it can leave a line in some hair curly hair types.  This can be avoided by a pulling out motion. It also is known to snag the skin. Nonetheless it is a disadvantage.
554 
555                 Also, the method of "Raking" your clipper to blend a fade 1A in length on top is not an option with this clipper. Also there is a gap between the one
556 
557                 and two whahl guards which if you use for blending will  result in a weight line in the finer more curly afro american hair types. Also the way the wahl
558 
559                 guards above one are made(teeth with great depth in comparison to the thin teeth of the Andis purple magnetic and plastic guard) it makes it perfect for going with the grain knocking out stragglies the regular guard
560 
561                 counterparts would not. The real advantage with
562 
563                 this is if your cutting against the grain your haircuts can be done extremely fast, less than 15 minutes on cutting and blending if you know what your doing. This would make these
564 
565                 number 3 in my opinion.
566 
567 
568                 Number 2 is the fastfeeds. Many barbers say these clippers are powerful and quiet. They blend fades really well and are good for knocking down thick hair.
569 
570                 The main problem here is there is a huge gap for it's tripple zero which equals to about an 0A. This can be re adjusted by looking on youtube vid's to show
571 
572                 you how to get it to the actual 000 "Zero gapping". This can be used in combination with the wahl flat 1/16 slide on guard to cut with the grain on cesars with waves this is because
573 
574                 the wahl guard is very flat and lacks depth resulting in "stragglies" being disposed of. An issue with the fast feeds is you cannot cut with the grain
575 
576                 with the blade itself. This results in uneven cutting and a terrible outcome. Your haircut time could be cut very short using these without rushing.
577 
578                 Possibly because the clipper has a pivot motor(twice as powerful as magnetic). Teeth are thicker and wider than masters(rotary blade).
579 
580               
581                 Number 1: The andis masters. A clipper with a Magnetic motor. It is known to be very precise with african american hair types and great for fading.
582                 
583                           Of course the thing you have to look for is uneven fades. Blotches and patches(which would occur less often in the fast feeds because of the motor).  
584 
585                           You certainly cannot rush with this clipper and not check the mirror.
586 
587                           This clipper is not as powerful as the wahl five stars or fast feeds(via their motors), but can deliver and astonishing fade in the right hands.
588 
589                           Haircut time expectency (without rushing) for a bald fade of 1A or higher on top perhaps about 20 minutes. You can rake with this clipper, cut with the
590 
591                           grain or what not. (Teeth are thinner and closer together than fast feeds) This helps with precision in finer hair types(such as curly afro american hair IN GENERAL in comparison
592 
593                           to the more coarse straight hair(caucasion hair) which easily lays in a uniform pattern and stays there. Excellent for cutting with the grain on these hair types also,(because teeth
594 
595                           are thinner and closer).
596 
597 
598                           There is no detachable information. Assume Oster 76 to be a good choice but it's all up to preference.
599 
600       IF your emphasis is speed(via you have your techniques down but your sick of going over the same spot several times for dark spots)
601 
602       Wahl five star seniors W/a wahl senior blade(non-fade blade).... I.e. because the blade has a heel you don't have to worry about creating
603 
604       a hard line with the blade it comes with using the motion you would use for andis masters(the simpler the better) plus it won't snag the skin.
605 
606       Use the wahl slide on guards for 0, 1, and 2 (to meet your cutting with the grain needs because those guards should be flat and lack depth unlike
607 
608       the wahl colored 2 guard(there is a huge gap between the red 1 guard and the purple 2 guard in depth which easily leaves a weight line while blending
609 
610       afro american hair through those lengths. Keep in mind it cannot rake like the masters and fast feeds and that also the teeth are not thin and close
611 
612       together as the masters so on some haircuts(some fades) you may have to take out the masters.
613 
614 
615 
616       There are two setups that I recommend
617 
618 
619 
620      Casual(emphasis)
621 
622      Wahl Heros: for kids and balding and for certain hairtypes, good for sensitive necks.  
623 
624      T outliner: for sharp lines but because of magnetic motor you may have to hit it a few times.
625 
626      Andis Masters: For all hair but extremely accurate in fades ecpecially for afro american hair(use for free handing).
627 
628      A rotary motor detatchable(the counterpart of the V-9000 motor in the 5 star seniors).
629 
630 
631 
632 
633      Good combination for the shop,
634 
635      T outliners(magnetic motor i.e. slower cutting but precise crisp lines)[Upgrade to styliner 2's for more power to put sharp lines in quicker but the catch is they are harder to adjust),
636 
637      Wahl heroes( real sharp for some hair types mostly straight hair, good use for quicker balding),
638 
639      Andis Improved Masters( because teeth are thinner and closer together most precise blending on curly hair, though it has slower cutting magnetic motor), {To go back and clean up fades, freehand fro's}
640 
641      Andis Power Fade ( Ceramic rotary blade and motor, expected to have require very little clipper passes over one area, drastically improves haircut time adjustable to 0000). {Primary clipper, clipper over comb}
642 
643      Andis Fade Masters(for fro's only via quick and smooth freehand shaping)
644 
645      (This same combination can be used for the exchange on straight hair wahl heroes does better in general than curly hair in general, so basically it will
646 
647       be Wahl heroes and the Andis Power Fade).
648 
649       Try chuka the barber's blade sharpening technique.
650 
651 
652       Universal hair cutting strategy
653 
654       Emphasis flatcomb(clipper over comb), free hand(fros) for lengths above a 5(i.e. you will still have to freehand fro's at that length for smoothness), Shears to blend into top
655 
656       after clipper over comb. (Keep in mind it is easier to blend straight hair than curly so sometimes this guide may not be needed).
657 
658       Whether its a taper or bald fade(for any hairtype), Blend down from high to low, 5, 4, 3,  lowering the hair until 2 and a half then use increments of half until 0 and a half
659 
660       then use  0 half open, 0 a little above open, 0 closed, 1 blade, a little less than 1 blade, 0A, a little less than 0A and then closed.
661 
662       Since it is harder to see a line from 2 to 3 but easy to see one 000 to 0A... This means the higher blend zones can be closer and tighter than the lower ones.
663 
664       I.e.5, 4, 3, 2 1/2, 2, 1 1/2, 1(blade), 0 1/2,
665 
666       THEN! I smaller increments(because it is easier to see changes at these lengths in general,
667 
668       0 a little above close, 0 closed, 1 blade, a little less than 1 blade, 0A(or half), a little above open, and closed 000.
669 
670       When doing bald fades stretch the 0A region(do not stretch before lowering the sides because you will not now how much room you have with that
671 
672       hair type, or the difficulty to blend(requiring more room) until you lower the sides.
673 
674       For bald fade  0 closed on sides(meaning sides lowered first and blended into crown and parietal ridge) then soup bowl line and blend bottom up,
675 
676       for taper fade 0A or 1 blade 2 finger width's above he ear, sides lowered to a 1 guard.
677 
678       The only time to use a flatcomb w/curly hair is to do a "more efficient" flat top with flatcomb resting on sides and back of head.  
679 
680 
681 
682 
683        The "What If's"
684 
685        What if I have a walkin or client with dandruff filled hair and its affects my haircut time seriously while I have other clients waiting....
686 
687        Most of the time barbers jump into it and cut the hair and discover this second. Let them know
688 
689        they have sugar spots(Dandruff this terminology may make them giggle with no offense)
690 
691        Assure them a quick shampoo would help keep the haircut quality high and smooth(no charge shampoo)
692 
693        Now for afro american type curly hair using a general purpose comb and combing with and against the
694 
695        grain after the shampoo is suzzed in, helps dislodge attached dandruff from the scalp. (Which affects
696 
697        blending quality in fading). With that dandruff goes the oil. (Beats the heck outta using the finger tips...)
698 
699        Make sure the water is luke warm.... If the hair is knotted and/or fro length  make short, quick, back and
700 
701        forth strokes getting all areas of the scalp within the fro without tugging the hair out of their follicles.
702 
703        Once again this is normally an issue with fading, temper taper and back tapers even if the hair has dandruff
704 
705        shouldn't be an issue. The dirty hair situation is more rare and the wash should take 10 minutes on top of
706 
707        the haircut time. So more or less, this is feasable you won't have to do it often and when you do
708 
709        it hopefully the client(Not offended by your sugar spot gesture) will be knowledgeable and have a clean
710 
711        scalp everytime after that.
712 
713 
714        What If #2
715 
716        The owner sees the overwhelming progress made and discovers you are only charging $10 or $7 dollars and wants you to conform
717 
718        to $15 or raise the booth-rent higher than the average $150 and or raising the price. Politely explain that
719 
720        you are using an advanced strategy to pull in with momentum clientele by mixing high quality and low price. That eventually,
721 
722        by maintaining this... The walk ins and those waiting will become indifferent to who they go to and in agitation of the wait
723 
724        be captured by other just as good or better barbers. This will continue until their cups are full and spill out of the shop
725 
726        maximizing the return. Also over time the max possible clients will become accustomed and be dedicated.
727 
728 
729        What IF #3
730 
731        A an older gentleman comes in asking for a haircut with a larger head and is showing mild male pattern baldness(If you close
732 
733        your fingers together on your right hand (so that the surface palm and fingers facing toward you is flat as if they were
734 
735        resting on a surface). This should consist of the Index, Middle, Ring, and Pinky(Ignoring the thumb because of positioning);
736 
737        and bring about the Index and middle finger of the left hand and rest all fingers above the eyebrow(This is an estimate of
738     
739        where the hairline is described to be. Once-more, some older gentlemen want their edgeup, some do not what the top portion
740 
741        lined, some have a concave hairline where the corners are further up on the head(the corners of where the horizontal lining on
742 
743        the forehead turns vertical to 80-90 degrees), and in some areas if there are no hair at all just tap the trimmers on where the
744 
745        hairline would be when lining center-to side(Meaning start the line at the center of the head then inch your way to the left
746 
747        corner then restart at the center and inch your way to the right corner for the forehead's horizontal line). In regards to a
748 
749        gentleman suffering this form of mild male pattern baldness is breaking the center to side technique into 2 more increments.
750 
751       Center to left-middle(tapping areas where hair is not present[whilst visualizing hair there]); Center to right middle(tapping
752 
753       areas where hair is not present[whilst visualizing hair there]), left-middle to side(left side of the head where the corner is
754 
755       tapping areas where hair is not present[whilst visualizing hair there]); right-middle to side(right side of the head where the
756 
757       corner is tapping areas where hair is not present[whilst visualizing hair there].
758 
759 
760        Trick's for insta-confidence:
761 
762        Say an individual who is wary of new barbers and un-aware of your ability come in for a hair cut and you sense it. If willing demonstrate casual, cool,
763 
764        mellow confidence in which you say "Hey mayne if yo cut aint right you get half the price of the cut plus the price of the cut back",
765 
766        (ONLY FOR NEW INDIVIDUALS AS THEY DO NOT GET SUSPICIOUS OF YOU), and once they see the outcome they'll have respect and trust as an
767 
768        extra lock-down.
769 
770 
771 
772        Conclusion
773 
774 
775        Confidently, I can say within one year a 700 a week average will be met. Perhaps 500 a week in half a year if your gung ho with
776 
777        this strategy.
778 
779 
780        Barbering maintainence: Youtube and observe various barbers and their techniques. This is a visual. The notes area a guideline
781 
782                                you may see techniques listed here used. Pick and choose what is most comfortable for you.
783 
784 
785 
786Clientelle build:  Depends on skill, demeanor, attendance, appearance, and proffesionalism.
787 
788                   When I was at Better Barbers and Nexx Level I noticed a clientelle build of 12 per month(3 months to pay boothrent and have money left over). Expect some clients to show up either once per 2,3 or 4 weeks. Sometimes longer if they
789 
790                   let their fros go wild or straight hair go wild. So lets put the estimate at one month. Lets also average client lockdown because of high skill
791 
792                   to be once every 2 days(this is an estimation). Of course the beginning is going to be tuff so you need a second job(say 20 hrs).
793 
794                   So your in the shop not starving or desperate for about 40 hours of the week initially(in order to avoid a snatch royal).
795 
796                   Most of your hours are allocated to thurs fri and sat in such you spend all day at the shop.
797 
798                   It is my firm belief that you must spend bare minimum 60 hrs at the shop average for 1,000 a week.
799 
800                   This time you spend acts as a net to catch any and all customers people miss and returning customers
801 
802                   that randomly return during the weekday and decide to either check another barber or another shop out
803 
804                   due to your absence.  You must not also sacrifice haircut quality for speed or risk client
805 
806                   retention, even if the cut was right, its gotta be perfect. 20 mins minimum per cut unless it is a cesar.
807 
808                   Here is a general rule of thumb(considering skill, demeanor, attendance, appearance, and proffesionalism to be positive):
809 
810                   20 consistent hours a week for a year straight: $350 a week average, regardless of location.
811 
812                   40 consistent hours a week for a year straight: $700 a week average, regardless of location.
813 
814                   60 consistent hours a week for a year straight: $1050 a week average, regardless of location.
815 
816                   Variables may tip weekly earnings higher or lower(such as info swap with customer, weather, holidays, 1st & 15th, clients goes out of town etc.)
817 
818                   But above is just sitting and cutting in the shop w/ customer referrals. 
819
820                   If possible make arrangements with the owner that you only want $30 a week(for gas) from the shop to get past the first three months of possibly having
821
822                   to owe the shop owner because customers don't come in in enough volume occasionally until the clientelle is sufficient(Month 3).
823 
824 
825 
826                   
827 
828         
829                    6 days out the week 10 hours per day. If you want to have an income cause it will suck if your shop owner won't give you half of what you earned for the first 2 months
830 
831                  (second job night shift 25 hr limit) job knock that down to 8 hours 5 days out of the week and try to regulate your sleep and happiness. Play on your phone or watch tv as the hours pass in the shop.
832 
833                   
834 
835                  With your techniques your haircuts should be quick but not rushed. Inbetween 15 and 20 minute intervals. Remember you may have to do beard and haircut,
836 
837                  just haircut, or just beard. And of course you can't rush with the straight razor and razor work is a must for a sharp beard and lineup to get rid of shadows.
838 
839                  Remember(from my experience) the masters blends very accurately but you might have to work on the blend a bit because it does not cut as powerfully as the fast
840 
841                  feeds. Using the Master's alone on a fade with a 1A or higher on top expect the haircut to take about 20 mins(at a casual pace) but with high quality blends. With the fastfeeds cut 5 minutes
842 
843                  off that time with still pretty nice blends working at the same pace. That is why the fast feeds is preferred for the elite strategy.  
844 
845                  Remember, when you change your equipment, that equipment may perform diffferently meaning a change in strategy. Keeping the same tools and a simple approach
846 
847                  helps.
848 
849                 
850 
851                 
852             
853                 
854 
855                  Here is what you should expect at an average walkin/# of barber barbershop.
856 
857 
858 
859                  There are several in inherent disadvatages here. You are locked in a single geographic location and if you move you have to move your clientelle with
860 
861                  you and it is likely you'll lose a decent number of your clientelle due to that move. If you move out of state or somewhere along those lines, you will have to start over.
862 
863                  Income range expectance for barbering 22,000- 61,000/uncommonly higher. The 61,000 range is based off the best whom I've seen.  
864 
865                  If you want absolute job security(Be your own boss).... Save up money you earn after a year of cutting and put it towards a shop; About 1,000 per month.
866 
867                  By the next year you should be good then transfer your clientelle and hire barbers.
868 
869 
870 
871                  Shop Choice
872 
873 
874                  Though this may sound strange... Choose a shop where there is bare minimum five to six barbers. There is a greater chance in this
875 
876                  enviroment that customers who used to be walkins come in and see in general everyone seems to know how to cut will be less devoted(sometimes),
877 
878                  to who they go to. As opposed to customers who go to a shop with only 2-3 barbers. Also, the owner will more than likely be more relaxed, lenient,
879 
880                  and will be easier to negotiate with on boothrent if all barbers there (five-six) are basically established. Also do not assume they will
881 
882                  be there die hard every day. Often you will have availibility(if you live by a set schedule), and the times they are absent and customers
883 
884                  come in, they will be your customers. Also aim for boothrent of 25 dollar raises per 4 weeks or monthly. Stating that some customers
885 
886                  come back once every 2-3-4 weeks. Stating that a raise at least once every 4 weeks is fair but aim for once every 4 weeks because of customer
887 
888                  unpredictability. I believe you should maintain a minimum of 40 hours a week at the shop with the bulk being oriented toward the weekends.
889 
890                  If your aiming for 1,000 a week or more availability is your flytrap and consistency in that availability will help you build rappor with those
891 
892                  customers (customer retention). Basically this is making the shop your home from open to close 6 days out the week.  
893 
894                  For 1,000 a week you may have to stay a minimum of 60 hours a week to accomplish this.
895 
896 
897 
898 
899             Barber Etiquette:
900 
901 
902             Things to remember:
903 
904             When your starting over again keep these things in mind.
905 
906             When you see an established barber with boatloads of people waiting on him and you ask (if thinking they are a walkin) need a cut? And they either say nothing or waiting on him do
907 
908             not feel less of a barber. You've been at a point were people where waiting on you and others felt the same way. Plus no new person has a clue about your skill level.
909             
910             Also do not become fazed or upset if you experience anytype of disrespect in the barbershop. Aim to take it over and try not to be spiteful if you do(i.e. don't take things to heart).
911 
912             Focus on why your there and the reward for staying... Other people may have different ways of doing things. If there is conflict insist and prove your way is best.
913 
914             Be confident and humorous inside the shop and tactful outside the shop(say "If you want to see how I cut come in and watch").
915 
916             Be nice and gentle at all times... Ugliness doesn't last long. Consistently check yourself.
917 
918             
919 
920 
921 
922             Here is a rules/techique to use(My preference) if your good at clipper over comb.....
923 
924 
925             Always look in mirror!
926 
927 
928             Also to lower sides some for temple and back taper if hair is ridiculously outgrown(Instead of using one open down the temples and back) use clipper over comb at a 45 degree angle with the teeth closer to you and lower the hair.
929 
930             (If it's bald fade) Bring the hair down on sides(not crown and parietal ridge when hair is long on top ) to fade length on side(Bald fade length 1 guard or 1A enough so if your doing a bald fade on the sides with any length on the top you should have room for a smooth blend.  
931 
932             Order of cut ops:
933 
934             Client consultation: Hairstyle(don't confuse haircut names get the name and describe the cut if clients doesn't understand the name you have i.e. know various names for a single cut!!!), Get highest and lowest lengths, and possible special adjustments to their liking.
935 
936             Look in mirror!
937 
938             By default: If bald fade Work high to low until 0 guard closed on sides on fades. Remember you can make higher blends lengths tighter than lower blends lengths.
939 
940             then make 000 line then blend bottom up and stretch the 0A. (1 guard adjustable closed if using adjustable)).
941 
942             Use hero's for balding by flipping them upside down and hitting the line at an angle.
943 
944             When at neck(sensitive area) flip trimmer rightside up and flick wrist outwards to bald(If using andis outliners if using wahl heros this rule is omitted).  
945 
946             In the case of a Taper fade/Light fade use 0A  or 1 Blade(In the place of 000 for bald fades 2 finger widths above ear) lower sides/back to 1 guard and blend upwards.
947 
948 
949             By default(for cesars & for lowering hair) cut against the grain first w/ the grain second(against to even the hair out if it's uneven growth and hair is sticking to scalp via gel or oil), Unless client says otherwise(remember do not use fast feeds bare blade w/grain use masters blade instead!!!) Then,
950 
951             cut with the grain either(1 blade) with the grain  one finger underneath the blade for an angle, or 0A, 2 fingers underneath the back end of the blade for a good 45 degree angle.
952 
953 
954 
955 
956             Haircut list:
957 
958             Cesars: Light, med, dark
959 
960             Light: 1 blade against the grain(do not cut with the grain after)
961 
962             Med:   0 1/2 against the grain(0A with the grain), 1 guard against the grain, 1 Blade with the grain....(the 0 1/2 and 0A angled with the grain is for real smooth but not light cesars)
963 
964             Dark:  1 1/2 against the grain, 0 1/2 with the grain Maxout 2 1/2 w/ the grain (for long flat waves but not quite straight cocasion hair).
965 
966             Cesars w/waves: If hair is coarse and less dense(usually older guys kids have finer more dense hair) with the grain on medium and dark.
967 
968 
969             Bald fade:
970 
971             Remember, higher blends tighter, lower blends looser.
972 
973             Lower back and sides until zero closed(while simeoutaneously blending to the top),
974 
975             Make 000/0000/00000 line then blend up. (i.e. 000-0000 may count as blend zones)
976 
977             Try to use adjustables that adjust to 0000 (I.e. Andis Improved Masters, Power Fades i.e. power fades have a fade blade that cannot cut with the grain unless you have a guard)  
978 
979             Never use a razor for straight hair to make a hard line in straight hair it will take blend adjustment, a trimmer corner, and a shaver to get out.
980 
981 
982            For Military Taper:
983 
984            Follow the length of 3, 5, 7, shears.... Or 7, 5, 3 high to low if your more comfortable with that.
985 
986            If it's a 3,2,1 3 on top 2 on sides and 1 at nape and lower sideburns.
987 
988            Follow this pattern for efficient cuts.
989 
990            For non Military Tapers:
991 
992            Use only a 5 guard, a 3 guard and a flatcomb with clipper over comb and shears.
993 
994           
995            For crew cut or one length sides:
996 
997            Comb all hair on top to the front,
998 
999            Lower the sides to a 2 while blending into the parietal.
1000 
1001 
1002           For a flat top on straight hair:  
1003 
1004           gel the hair up, Blow dry it,
1005 
1006           then clipper over comb flatten the top and sides.  
1007 
1008 
1009           For flat top on afro hair type:
1010 
1011           Comb flat up and down sides and back of the head.
1012 
1013           Lower the sides for and back intended blending room ( 0 closed for bald fade, 1 guard for taper fade) Start both blends 2 finger width's above the ear.
1014 
1015           Use andis fade masters to freehand smooth fro texture.  
1016 
1017 
1018           Use Razor(i.e. lining):
1019 
1020           When the haircut is 20 dollars every time, take your time with Razor.
1021 
1022           If haircut is 15 dollars use for client lockdown and when it's slow(because it takes time).
1023 
1024           
1025 
1026 
1027           Fro Shaping:
1028 
1029           Use andis fade masters...  
1030 
1031 
1032           Expedient but correct approach:
1033 
1034 
1035           If you know the vast majority of the time you lower the sides and the sides get to be about zero closed but you lower the sides goings over a long area
1036 
1037           over the scalp with a magnetic motor various times with each guard working it down... For the best blend, aim 4 finger widths above the ear with zero
1038 
1039           closed no matter the length on top or parietal ridge(for bald fades). THEN, you clipper over comb/freehand/guard blend everything into place after that
1040 
1041           above that making the top long and blend into sides and keeping the blend the absolute best. For example with straight hair(not over top)
1042 
1043           after making zero closed for a fade 4 3 2 1  0 1/2over the parietal ridge(a small) area saving a messload of time while. THEN using shears to blend into that
1044 
1045           4. So in effect you make to soup bowl lines instead of one. One 0000 two finger widths above the ear, and one zero closed 4 finger widths above the
1046 
1047           ear and you use a 4 guard decsending downward to blend the crown into the 0 closed, then shears to blend the crown into the top perhaps after lowering it a little
1048 
1049           (at shear lengths).
1050 
1051 
1052           For taper fades it will be the same but instead of zero closed it will be 1 guard 4 finger width's above the ear with 1 blade or 0A two finger widths above
1053 
1054           the ear and the hair above it will be lowered the same way 4 and descending. Again 4 fingerwidths above the ear is one finger widths above a high bald fade(where it starts)
1055 
1056           giving sufficient blend room for a tight blend. The same applies for box fades (in the case of taper fades) though again you have to not blend into
1057 
1058           the crown, 4 fingerwidth's above the ear does not touch the crown on an adult scalp but for children 3 finger widths above the ear to evade this before or after
1059 
1060           you do that you can flat comb it(mainly works on straight of hair not to well on clipper over comb for fros but when it rests against the scalp it is perfect).
1061 
1062           That will leave you at a messy 2 for that hair type which you will have to go over with guards at ONLY 4 fingerwidths above the ear!!!!....
1063 
1064           The box fade is still acceptable if you angle in 5-10 degrees for th needed room for the sides and back(not frontt!) for bald fades medium.
1065 
1066           .
1067 
1068           Technique for all Taper fades:
1069 
1070           4, 4, 2, one or half
1071 
1072           4 finger widths above the ear 1 guard,
1073 
1074           4 guards descending to blend into that one guard(covering only mostly or parietal and top) w/ shears/clipper over comb/free hand covering top.
1075 
1076           2 finger widths above the ear set a 1 blade or 0A for.  
1077 
1078           *For box fades flat comb first lowers side to a messy 2 when flush against scalp gor over it again*
1079 
1080           
1081 
1082           Technique for all Bald fades for adults:
1083 
1084 
1085           4, 4, 2, 4 zero
1086 
1087           4 finger widths above the ear 0 guard closed,
1088 
1089           4 guards descending to blend into that zero guard closed(covering mostly parietal or parietal and top) w/ shears/clipper over comb/free hand covering top.  
1090 
1091           2 finger widths above the ear set a 0000.  
1092 
1093          *For box fades flat comb firt lowers side to a messy 2 when flush against scalp go over it again, inclining the box 5-10 degress inward is acceptable for the blend room except
1094 
1095           for front (i.e. this has been seen by those who've done medium bald fades for boxes with tight blends*          
1096 
1097           
1098 
1099 
1100 
1101         
1102 
1103 
1104           
1105 
1106 
1107           
1108 
1109 
1110 
1111           
1112 
1113           
1114 
1115             
1116 
1117             
1118 
1119 
1120             Technique to double or triple clientelle growth rate of 12 per month:
1121 
1122             
1123             (Using Vista Print): Create cards with 2 images of excellent haircuts on them. One straight hair  and one curly hair. Ensure these are the sharpest ones you have.
1124 
1125             Put on the cards for get free a scratch off after first cut(limit card distribution to funds available for scratch off)!
1126 
1127             (Card should have name, cell number, and shop location) in sets of 250 in case you change shops.
1128 
1129             While cutting your customer ensure you pull out all the stops(best shea butter oil sheen, razor lining front and back, razor lining for eyebrow, stache and beard using gel
1130 
1131             to shave off loose hairs on nape and face.... The highest quality you can dish out.
1132 
1133             Have small talk after greeting them and ask them how they enjoyed the service. Hand the customer 2 of those cards and encourage to give them to his friends
1134 
1135             and family at work or school or however and have them come in. For clients with curly hair if they give it to clients with straight hair it will appeal
1136 
1137             via straight hair cut on card and their friend whom they trust with a cut from that barber. Also the free scratch off after first cut will encourage them on top of that.
1138 
1139             Saying this with confidence and faith. 2 cards per walkin/customer should yield a 50% return. Also he could just tell them to come on in without giving card.
1140 
1141             But insist you have to see card for scratch off.(Your giving limited cards to each person to save from card waste i.e. not being used or forgotten potentially). It happens alot when
1142 
1143             people bring in friends and family to a barber after getting their first cut and it happened to you in barberschool(Without a request from the barber).
1144 
1145             This is just a "voluntary trigger" for this.  So every 2 weeks you should see a cycling of 2 people come back instead of one meaning instead of a 12 client per month
1146 
1147             gain a 24 or higher client per month gain. It some occasions it might be more than 3.... So in effect this is a good theory in approaching rapid clientelle build.
1148 
1149             Remember in the past when you asked a returning client(get any compliments on your cut?) and they say, yes alot! Each one of those people who complimented
1150 
1151             could be interested and willing to go to the shop he got his hair cut at.
1152 
1153             Alot of barbers have the problem of... I hand out cards and most do not come or some say ok, and throw it in the dirt. This is a good technique for maximizing
1154 
1155             card returns.
1156 
1157             After you cut the customers hair once and do an amazing job and their happy you instantly have their trust. This is why this manuever is gives you an unfair
1158 
1159             advantage. Have a black permanent marker to mark cards after their first use.
1160 
1161             Another option: Handing out 3 cards per person and hoping for triple a clientelle build per month. Instead of 12 per month you have 36 a month.
1162 
1163             This includes that person you handed the card to and 2 of the 3 people you hoped for him to bring in with those cards(excluding friends brought in by word of mouth).
1164 
1165             This brings you to a clientelle build of 36 per month or after a month have 9 cuts per week(Which is a whole lot better than 3 a 300% increase).
1166 
1167             Continue this for 10 months, then go back to normal price. If all cuts of these customers requesting you go to normal price you would earn 1,350 a week
1168 
1169             minus boothrent leaving you with 1,200 a week(If haircuts are $15).  Ensure you make the card red to capture the eye and make it harder to forget.  Along this entire time the returning
1170 
1171             people whom your walkins brought in would build a deeper rappor with you.
1172 
1173             This technique keeps you from walking up and down the streets and waving signs and have the happy customer bring em in for you.
1174 
1175             This technique just might build you a clientelle that would take 2 or 3 years in this economy and with this competition in 10 months.
1176 
1177             Remember on the card make it say (request Q the Barber).
1178 
1179             For the most rapid clientelle build, fresh fitted shoes and shirts(All from roses)
1180 
1181             Keep in mind that the first ad second week of the month may be the fastest because of the 1st and the 15th where the military members get paid and other
1182 
1183             people get paid. Expect the 3rd week to be slower and the end of the month to be slowest. Do not become discouraged thinking "ohhh theres too many shops, or
1184 
1185             ohhhhh theres too many barbers) there are plenty of people that have not experienced a very high quality haircut.
1186 
1187             Note that during the year for barbering(in contrast to the summer) the winter is slower. A good time to start is right after winter.
1188 
1189 
1190         
1191 
1192             
1193 
1194            For switching shops to deter rough times:
1195 
1196 
1197            Initially when you first begin. Use all techniques to gain you 1,000 a week in about 10 months. Again, this involves 50 hours a week in the shop,
1198 
1199            high quality efficient haircuts, proffessionalism, demeanor, and card strategy.
1200 
1201            After that point save 1,000 a month(or 1/4 of your income per month) and do not panic because after all your making non taxable money. Save this amount for 12 months.
1202 
1203            This will give you enough or 1,000 a month if you take a severre clientelle hit due to an incedent of hospitilization or however. This is also enough to pay
1204 
1205            for an apartment bill for 1 month(600- and up if you go for an affordable location) or pay a family member of friend 350-500 to rent a room.
1206 
1207            This will be with your zero clientelle. With the strategy you'll make boothrent in 1/2 the time if the owner is the type to radically boost it to 150.
1208 
1209            Instead making boothrent in 2 months you'll be able to make it in 1 month and the months after one is pure profit. Have a fast food night time job(with 25 hr limit)
1210 
1211            and be in barbershop(40 hr limit) and have sleep additives(benedril and motrin) to reset sleep schedule if you need extra cash.
1212 
1213            Also, it is wise for you to save like this for 20 months to 2 years for a double amount to fall back on. (2,000 a month).
1214 
1215            Which would branch off close to a barber's annual income on salary.com. Try to put 1,100 a month after you reach the 1,000 a week threshold. This will put you at
1216 
1217            26,000 in 2 years. Again this is if haircuts are average price($15) If their $20 per haircut expect this time to be reduced quite a bit.
1218 
1219            Be disciplined in this for this could save your LIFE!!! Also if you have to move to another state if you have 26k in the bank and your going to a barbershop
1220 
1221            in a new state your set. Also,(advice) live below your means until you can achieve this, go for a 600-700 a month apartment or stay with the folks.
1222 
1223            Buy a used car(if you don't already have one), pay every 2 weeks. Remember that's 3,000 a month so.... You should have 1,500-1,700 to play with...
1224 
1225            This plan does not make you uncomfortable in order to achieve but requires unwavering discipline and persistance. Make it a habit to visit the bank or go to
1226 
1227            the ATM (in which to deposit cash after each work day or at your lunch when there is a null in business).
1228 
1229 
1230 
1231            For having your own shop:
1232 
1233            General Overview:
1234 
1235            Be a barber for 2 years(build clientle). Be able to pay the shop rent by yourself(Cost of a new shop [$10,000-$30,000]
1236 
1237            slowly upgrade. Work on saving and have clientele(stay at the barbershop your at paying booth-rent while this occurs).
1238 
1239            As soon as the shop pays for itself and fills your pockets make the switch(keep track of all clientele on your phone).
1240 
1241            Have insurance on the shop(A/C, Cable, rent, supplies, lights), Go to City Hall(Gain certificate of occupancy). Get a
1242 
1243            plumber and electrician(2 grand for each). Have inspectors to come through to see if it is safe. Have it checked out
1244 
1245            by the fire department.
1246 
1247            Ensure the property purchased can be covered in not too much over one week of barbershop earnings as an established barber
1248 
1249            (within $1,000). This means X amount of dollars times x amount of square feet divided by 12. Look for office lease(move to
1250 
1251            Norfolk if necessary).
1252 
1253            1. Know that competition in virginia beach is fierce so prepare accordingly.
1254 
1255            2. Because you know how to do both straight and curly hair and the state board. Ensure you have basic equipment(every thing except clippers, trimmers, and hair dryers).
1256 
1257            3. Youtube the perm rods portion again and record state board preperations at your old barber academy.
1258 
1259            4. Get the book for licensed barber instructor and take the test.
1260 
1261            5. Start recording all clientele for 3 months prior to this move and call and inform each one of your moving to a new location.
1262 
1263            6. With money stored aside open up.
1264 
1265            7. Pay for a number 1 spot for search engine in google.
1266 
1267            8. Go to affordable but decent location.
1268 
1269            9. Make school 3,000.(Advertise this in comparison to 5,000 for va beach beauty and barber academy) and financial aid and G.I. Bill eligible and learn the perks.
1270 
1271            10. Pay for your business and school license.
1272 
1273            11. Know the book back and forth and do tests(theory each week).
1274 
1275            12. Ensure they know all your techniques and they crowd around you as you do a haircut and also if they are good enough to know your techniques they can create their own.
1276 
1277            13. If you don't hire licensed barbers instead. If you make the students pay 3,000 for tuition you make 36,000 (in the 12 months they are likely to be there for 5 chairs).
1278 
1279            14. If you do hire licensed barbers and boothrent is 150 a month you make the same. Advise them to keep track of their clientelle, assist them in recording and finding a new shop and have them be on their
1280 
1281                way so you can fill their spot with a new student.
1282 
1283            15. Make extensive preperations for teaching, for recording lengths 00000 to 3/12 blade and 10 guard, teach them hair types, how to fade and free hand,        
1284           
1285                clean equipment, do shear cuts, different haircut types. Don't be afraid to have extra mannequins to teach them the military taper (from shears on top 3 on the side), to 3 on top and 1 on side.
1286 
1287                Have a pair of dulled out clippers and trimmers for this. Teach them two shearcutting techniques, supercuts method and another  technique you know which is easier and faster.
1288 
1289                Bald fades are hard to teach on mannequins(because of how the hair is sowed in. So have someone record you cut hair(before you make the transition to
1290 
1291                a school). And record the bald fade you do. Have them learn the adjustments first so they can follow along in the video. Your technique is not real
1292 
1293                hard to learn. Lower the sides and back. Stick guard through hair to gauge length. If sides and back(excluding crown and parietal ridges is 1 guard in
1294 
1295                length. Make 000 line one finger width above the ear(for extra room). Take trimmers and hold upside down and bald out under. Then make an 0 guard half,
1296 
1297                1 blade, and 0A line.(Make sure the 0A is larger than the other two margins). Knock out the 000 with a 2 notch. The 0A with a 4 notch on andis improved masters.
1298 
1299                To blend out the 0guard half use the 0 closed or the 0 2 notch on andis masters. Then an excellent fade is done. Their gonna learn how to do great fades fast with you.
1300 
1301                They will also have practice in palming the shears holding hair with 2 fingers switching the comb over as well. There will also be mannequins to practice shaves.
1302 
1303                Teach them how to hold clippers and trimmers and what holds and stable positions are good for lining different areas of the head. Teach them with the grain is only good
1304 
1305                for lower cuts and lowering sides and back. MAKE IT WORTH THEIR PAY!!!
1306 
1307             16. Do NOT lower haircut price, they will be learning expert barber skills in a not too long time they will be as good or better than you.
1308 
1309             17. Teach when business is slow, cut your ass off when it is intense(via your clients), i.e. juggle your clients and teaching students.
1310 
1311                 Ensure you have easy to learn fade videos for 3 different scenarios( straight hair long on top, shorter curly hair all around, temple taper back taper, longer curly hair on top).
1312 
1313                 Ensure you cover in vids Ez military taper tricks and one length side tricks. 2 weeks days before they come on floor.
1314 
1315                 Keep them back there watching those vids! They should know every step by heart.
1316 
1317                 Also you as the instructor MUST break down the vids use alex cambell to teach them how to adjust blades.
1318 
1319                 Have a vid teaching them how to adjust masters to closer than 000(without breaking out back piece)
1320 
1321                 Masters are the training adjustable, why?(Because unlike the fast feeds you can go with the grain bare blade and they have notches on the side to go by and it is the most popular clipper.
1322 
1323                 Instruct them to get masters and grey andis trimmers or hero's.
1324 
1325            18.  Ensure your open 5 days out of the week and hire a licensed barber instructor to work in your place($13 an hour).
1326 
1327 
1328                 -OR-
1329 
1330                 If your opening your own barbershop (w/o the school option): Advertisement is key. Have someone record your haircuts(of course high quality),
1331 
1332                 and ensure the following haircuts are in the commercial, the bald fade, temple taper, military taper with shears, one length sides. Ensure both
1333 
1334                 curly and straight hair clients covered. I noticed that barbershops don't do this. Pay a #1 search spot for barbershops in google for the city your in!
1335 
1336                 So whenever someone searches up a barber business you pop up!!! Also other than that pay for your own commercial. An add can be range from 25 dollars once on a lower
1337               
1338                 viewed channel to $100 dollars once on a highly viewed channel. Make sure your shop is bringing in the dough before you commit 200-300 dollars a week for this.
1339 
1340                 I'm sure it's a hell of alot better than passing out cards and no other shop is doing it maybe except Supercuts. Make sure it's at 6-7 pm. When people are at home from work and eating
1341 
1342                 dinner. Take two barber's boothrent and put it toward's the commercial. Take another two barber's boothrent and put it toward the shop. Put the last
1343 
1344                 two barbers boothrent and put a large sign out front.
1345 
1346                 Technique for barbers, When business just starting up get one(experienced) licensed barber. Have him benefit by having one month free from booth rent.
1347 
1348                 Only if he stays in the shop full time(40 hrs out the week). Then after start him at 75 and raise him 25 each month after that. When he gets to 150 in boothrent
1349 
1350                 hire and additional barber and start him off at one month free of boothrent. Start him at $75 and raise him $25 per month. Repeat this process to build rappor with barbers.
1351 
1352                Alot of black barber's don't know how to do straight hair have mannequins in the back and ensure they know!!! Also be multiethnical(to improve business)
1353 
1354                seek diversity even if you have to go to a school to get them.
1355 
1356                 Also expect owning a barbershop to be tough, before you transition ensure your making 1,400 in a week in the shop and have money saved up other than 26,000.
1357 
1358                 Catalog every single individual and leave a message and inform them about the move. Hopefully you'll get 75% of em 900-1000 a week.
1359 
1360                 If you have to take 12,000 out of the 26,000 do it... Have the interior modeled, floors done,  barber chairs, shampoo stations, stations, bathrooms, mats
1361 
1362                 (avoid ghetto appearance at all costs but you don't have to be lavish!).
1363 
1364                 Pick a location in a shopping center with multiple stores nearby and a bustop.
1365 
1366                 Remember if you hire a whole bunch of barbers at once they'll be fighting over walkins and their probably not gonna stick with you long.
1367 
1368                 Again a successful barbershop has a combination of these:
1369 
1370                 Advertisement: Yours will be commercial, big sign, 1# in google search and cards. (when you can afford it commercial on busiest channel 3 days a week 6-7pm highlights of best haircuts covering both straight and curly hair).
1371 
1372                 Skilled barbers: Barbers that are versatile and can cut hair real well.
1373 
1374                 Affordable and decent location: Rent no higher than 1,000 or what you can make in a week, in a productive shopping center amidst multiple businesses.
1375 
1376                 Clean, operational and organized enviroment: It dosen't have to look like a 5 star hotel.... Or 5 star restaurant.
1377 
1378                 You should not have to depend on the barbers to keep your shop open. You yourself solitarily should be able to maintain the shop as a failsafe and
1379 
1380                 having no higher than 1,000 rent is part of that.
1381 
1382                 Hire one barber at a time and let them build clientelle. One month of free booth rent, next month 75, next month 100, next month 125, and the last month 150.
1383 
1384                 So that's 5 months inbetween barbers and if they have weakpoints you can give them tips and you can possibly learn something from them also ecspecially if they've
1385 
1386                 have 5+ years barbering experience. Again hire one every 5 months.
1387 
1388 
1389                 Alternative approach: In the event that barbershop numbers in a particular city are dense in concentration and in combination with that many places
1390 
1391                 are high in rent(for a shop to start off initially). Try this manuever. Research all available business places that are vacant. Aim for the lowest
1392 
1393                 places(areas where rent is under 1,000/per month). Look for the nearest businessess in contrast, the remoteness of the business, the accessibility
1394 
1395                 of the shop location, the main roads which pass this location. Use the (for owning your own shop) example but instead edit out the school portion
1396 
1397                 to be able to raise the price with already experienced barbers. At next level at a given period of time I made more than I every expected starting
1398 
1399                 off (3 hundred something in a week). Having a higher price decreases the amount you have to rush. Thinking of all the crazy hair types, variations
1400 
1401                 and fancy ways to cut along with some people coming back once a month and then they may possibly disagree with the haircut price(happened before).
1402 
1403                 The people who will pay the $20 a month who like the haircut will remain and add up. Adult $20, and children w/ elderly $15.
1404 
1405                 Go with the gradual boothrent increase and saved up funds as before.
1406 
1407                 The reason this alternative approach is suggested as there has been an observed issue of clientelle transfer issues that other barbers struggled
1408 
1409                 with.(Getting half to the majority of their customers to change locations).
1410 
1411 
1412                 Alternative approach(Non owner): In the event that barbershop numbers in a particular city are dense and effect walk in traffic severrely on average
1413 
1414                 at any shop focus on client RETENTION)[The case is different for the exchange]!
1415 
1416                 Law 1: Take time on ALL haircuts regardless of the level of business.
1417 
1418                 Law 2: Stay in the shop for 30 hours a week(use a part time job for 30 hours per week for equipment costs until clientelle boosts up).
1419 
1420                 Law 3: Stay looking fresh in the shop.
1421 
1422                 Law 4: Have good social skills and be funny(Pause cutting when talking to customer).
1423 
1424                 Law 5: Follow the card strategy!
1425 
1426                 Law 6: Don't trip over walkins too much during the weekday(via competition with fellow barbers), focus on thursday, friday and saturday
1427 
1428                        when the most money is made(i.e. highest traffic).
1429 
1430                 Law 7: Entertainment on spare time(hand held gaming systems)!
1431 
1432                 Law 8: If you go in a barbershop where everyone is new and barely anyone has clientelle and there are 7+ barbers your wrong!
1433 
1434                 Law 9: Don't take things personally!
1435 
1436                 Law 10: Review ALL BARBERING NOTES 10 times before re-entering proffession!  
1437 
1438               
1439                 http://www.strategy-business.com/media/file/sb49_07408.pdf
1440 
1441 
1442 
1443                When self promoting(using pictures with a customer's permission) it is a good idea to take pictures of haircuts on
1444 
1445               individuals who have dense hair(high concentration of hair shafts in one area) among st other things. The hair and
1446 
1447               scalp must be in good condition.
1448 
1449 
1450 
1451 
1452 
1453       
1454 
1455 
1456 
1457                 Addition: Sharp/effective blades(sharp lines included) both clippers and trimmers: Factors are:
1458 
1459                 Tension screw,
1460 
1461                 Lubrication,
1462 
1463                 Stationary blade location relative to moving blade,
1464 
1465                 Blade sharpening,
1466 
1467                 Motor Power,
1468 
1469                 Power screw(If there is one)
1470 
1471                 Blade Shape,
1472 
1473 
1474                 By maximizing each one of these factors as much as possible you can optimize the performance of your clipper/trimmer.
1475 
1476                 Note: After each day take the trimmers apart and wipe down the blades(the surface portion of each blade that rubs
1477 
1478                 directly against the other(Or alternatively use blade wash). This is because of many tiny cut hairs less than a
1479 
1480                 centimeter long and the natural waxy oily sebum that exists on hair(secreted by sebaceous glands within hair
1481 
1482                 follicles).  Create friction which slows the moving blade(dulling the line[this is unlike the tension screw which
1483                 
1484                 controls the force between the blades to affect power(which can sharpen the line and but slow the movement of the
1485   
1486                 blades) and the Power screw which affects the blade speed(if the blade speed is fast, the power is high(by the tension
1487 
1488                 screw and the power motor), The stationary blade relative to the moving blade is almost flush(without cutting the
1489               
1490                 skin) and the blade shape is perfect(Like the Andis T Outliners), the blade has been sharpened with first a coarse
1491 
1492                 sharpening stone and second a fine sharpening stone(If it's just a coarse one there would be more friction) and there
1493 
1494                 is no less than a centimeter hairs and waxy/oily sebum between the blades. Then the lining should be crisp.
1495 
1496 
1497                 Adjustment for Styliner 2's:
1498 
1499 
1500                 Before anything!
1501 
1502                 Loosen the bottom two screws and the tension screw so the moving blade is loose. (Ensuring all screws are still connecting to the blade).
1503 
1504                 THEN, tighten the tension screw close enough to where the part that adjusts the moving blade's closeness to the top blade is good enough
1505 
1506                 to glide(beige piece).
1507 
1508                 THEN, ensure the moving blade is close enough to the top blade without being flush or the moving blade exceeding the top blade(check to see how
1509 
1510                 even or parallel the beige piece which connects the moving blade to the stationary blade at the bottom where the two screws are.
1511                 
1512                 (Only move the beige piece do not touch the black piece which makes the blade move left and right).
1513 
1514                 THEN, Tighten the tension screw so that no movement (moving the black piece which moves the blade left and right), no movement can
1515 
1516                 make the blade misaligned(Keep note this can happen even if the bottom two screws which attaches the moving blade to the stationary blade are
1517 
1518                 even, if so, just move the blade back into even position and tighten the tension screw some more.
1519 
1520                 At this point recognize the tension screw tightness will determine power.... If the tension screw is loose the blade will move fast
1521 
1522                 but won't have the power to cut sharp lines through coarse hair or bald coarse hair.  
1523 
1524                 Tighten the tension screw to the point you have to force it from
1525 
1526                 left to right(the moving blade) not just a light tap. Then you put the blade on and adjust the power screw on the side.
1527 
1528                 Adjusting the power screw to clockwise cause the blade movement to slow down. Adjusting the power screw counter clockwise
1529 
1530                 will cause the blade movement to speed up. Seeing that if the moving blade is on tight via tension screw that will determine cutting
1531 
1532                 power. Now turn it counter clockwise as much as possible without the blade making a clacking sound
1533 
1534                 to combine blade power with the blade speed with the counter clockwise turned power screw.  
1535 
1536                 Keep in mind that after the tension screw is tightened the moving blade raises about a half a centimeter, so
1537 
1538                its a good idea to leave a half a centimeter gap prior to tightening the tension screw.
1539 
1540                 Now your styliners should be able to cut through anything!
1541 
1542 
1543                 Choices of equipment:
1544 
1545                 A notion one should consider is blade depth or guard depth. (depth is different than length via length of the guard when layed flat on the table)
1546 
1547                 Notice a wahl slide on guard has very  thin depth and thusly on african american hair eliminates stragglies.
1548 
1549                 Also notice that a guard with slightly higher depth (purple magnetics double magnets) tend to leave more stragglies cutting african american hair
1550 
1551                 (via 0-1 guards with or against the grain).
1552 
1553                 Hence for african american hair the purple double magnetics are preferrable and the slide on 0 guards is very useful in the stead of freehanding to
1554 
1555                 knock out stragglies efficiently with or against the grain on cesars.)
1556 
1557                 Notice that the blade depth when it comes in comparing the andis masters and the fade masters blades because the blade is thinner it has
1558 
1559                 a better effect on knocking out stragglies(ideal for freehanding) and also because of the adjusted length to 00000 is efficient in precise
1560 
1561                 low length cuts but the quick moving blades can disrupt the air between the teeth cause a slight suction of the skin into the teeth(snagging)
1562 
1563                 which occurs with fade blades.  
1564 
1565                 For curly type hair a fade masters adjusted very close(for freehand shaping)  
1566 
1567                 For guards the andis double purple magnetics (0-8)
1568 
1569                 For cesars the wahl slide on black 0...
1570 
1571                 ..............................................................................................................
1572 
1573 
1574                 Trick for trying to get a sharp line in: adjust the angle of the blade via the skin as you attempt to line the hair.
1575 
1576 
1577                 .....................................................................
1578 
1579                 Update: Learning to use razor with the balloon.
1580 
1581                 Imagine a razor resting flat ontop of a balloons surface. Now imagine it raised above it to the point it's parallel.
1582 
1583                 Now the transition between the razor being from parallel to perpendicular will be the focus. If you incline the razor
1584 
1585                 so that it is 25 degrees.... You will likely be able to slide across the balloons surface with lubricant.
1586 
1587                 If you incline it 90 degrees it is likely you will pop the balloon! It takes less pressure to pop the
1588 
1589                 balloon the more the razor is inclined! But nonetheless you need SOME incline(around 25 degrees)
1590 
1591                 to be able to comfortably glide across the balloons surface.
1592 
1593 
1594                  .............................................................................
1595 
1596 
1597                  Update: for edging up little kids with a light spot in the center of their hairline and a dark in the ends edge the corners only.
1598 
1599                          for edging up older men that is balding in the corners center to side and tap light areas.
1600 
1601 
1602                  ...............................................................................
1603 
1604 
1605                  (For the elite barbering strategy: Update clientelle build strategy: (Create a fund reserve for $1 toys from the dollar tree for kids after their haircut,
1606 
1607                  Create a plan for acuteness in humor to assist in social appeal to the customers.  
1608 
1609 
1610 
1611 
1612 
1613 
1614 
1615        Elite Barbering Equipment
1616 
1617 
1618        Combs/Guards
1619 
1620        10 taper/general purpose combs
1621 
1622        2 Flat combs, Pic * 3 sizes
1623 
1624        2 The Speed O Guide universal Clipper Guard sets(including the 1/32 length) plus 2 slide on 1/16 black wahl guards
1625 
1626        Note: the older purple double magnet guards have a thinner guard depth(as viewed from the side) than the newer single magnet purple magnetic guards. This is why
1627 
1628              the universal guards are being utilized(as the shorter than 1/16th universal guard should have a similar length cutting with the grain on african american curly
1629 
1630              type hair in regards to eliminating stragglies. (Remember the length may be identical on both guard types but the depth can show a strong difference).
1631 
1632             
1633 
1634              The older double magnet purple magnetic guard lengths are as follows:
1635 
1636             
1637              Guard Number 0 or 1/16"
1638 
1639              Guard Number 1 or 1/8"
1640 
1641              Guard Number 2 or 1/4"
1642 
1643              Guard Number 3 or 3/8"
1644 
1645              Guard Number 4 or 1/2"
1646 
1647              Guard Number 5 or 5/8"
1648 
1649              Guard Number 6 or 3/4"
1650 
1651              Guard Number 7 or 7/8"
1652 
1653              Guard Number 8 or 1"
1654 
1655              Etch your intials into all your equipment.
1656 
1657 
1658             The Speed O Guide universal Clipper Guard sets:
1659 
1660             #000(Please do not confuse with the 000 blade) or 1/32" (This could be used with the grain)        
1661 
1662             #00 (Please do not confuse with the 00 blade)  or 1/16" (This is the equivalent to double purple magnetic guard number 0)
1663 
1664             #0  (Please do not confuse with the 0 blade)   or 3/16" (This is the near equivalent to double purple magnetic guard number 2)
1665 
1666             #0A (Please do not confuse with the 0A blade)  or 5/16" (This is the near equivalent to double purple magnetic guard number 3)
1667 
1668             #1  (Please do not confuse with the 1 blade)   or 7/16" (This is the near equivalent to double purple magnetic guard number 4)
1669 
1670             #1A (Please do not confuse with the 1A blade)  or 9/16" (This is the near equivalent to double purple magnetic guard number 5)
1671 
1672             #2  (Please do not confuse with the 2 blade)   or 11/16"(This is the near equivalent to double purple magnetic guard number 6)
1673 
1674             
1675             
1676             
1677 
1678   
1679 
1680       
1681 
1682        Clippers
1683 
1684        1 Oster Fast Feed  {0 Overgap adjusted(No huge larger than 000 gap) For speedy blending} (To do this take off blade and don't loose any small pieces adjust the silver piece that holds the handle back by loosening the screw on the side, then hold it back with two fingers as you tighten it. Also adjust the metal piece farther up (with the two tong looking things) loose the screws and push it up and then tighten... After all things are tightened put it back together then loosen two screws on blade and push blade back. This should give you a 0000 blade for fast feeds closed if everything is tight.
1685 
1686        Andis Improved Masters, as a Backup clipper {Slower but accurate on fades){Reason why it's a different clipper backup is not only because it's good but the fast feed 1 blade or bare blade with the grain is not an option this can take that role. (take off cover plate and loosen 2 star shape screws and push arpeture forward to shift moving blade upwards). To improve power loosed screws on right side after chassy is taken off and push motor to the left. Also loosen the screws again and push down on motor and then tighten.
1687 
1688        1 Andis Fade Masters(With Fade Blade for smooth Fro's)
1689 
1690 
1691        Trimmers
1692 
1693        Andis T-Outliners     (Specially adjusted both blade and tension screw with oil) (For lining{does extremely good lines for most types of hair but because of magnetic motor it cuts slower like the masters)
1694 
1695        Wahl Heros(w/T-wide Blade) Back up trimmer  (For Balding and getting rid of those near vellus hairs that the T-Outliners struggle with also creates sharp lines on some fewer hair types(mostly straight hair) that the T-Outliners may not be as good as at)
1696 
1697        For dominance in trimmer lining in the shop: get sharpening stone (Alexccampbell.com it's 75 bucks) and sharpen the stationary blade tip  at a 45 degree angle to about a point,(with your fingers resting just above the underside tip of the blade at the edge of the stone so you can see from the side your hand and blade is at a 45 degrees the whole time also your thumb as close as possible to the stone without touching it, the closer the hold the better the control to make it come out even,  make short strokes for additional control, the blade tip is more rounded by the manufacturer(if you don't understand you need a visual).
1698 
1699        Try them on yourself(again ensure the blade is close enough to get a sharp line and far enough not to bite[In addition after a more coarse sharpening stone is used a fine grit sharpening stone must be used to minimize friction
1700 
1701        inbetween the blades as well as make the blades sharper).
1702 
1703        Get something like hero's or detailers for kids(Keep in mind their skin is thinner and more sensitive),(Especially if your not good at tapping lightly) Just in case keep the adjusted and oiled, Hero's and detailers are known for delivering a sharp line without biting(Keep them oiled!).
1704 
1705        (I would get as many as these items I can in black my personal preference i.e. fast feeds w/Andis T-Outliners and T-edgers).
1706 
1707 
1708 
1709 
1710                   Andis Cool Care,
1711 
1712        Barbicide + Flask,
1713 
1714        Oil Sheen(Shea Butter), Oil(for Clippers)
1715 
1716        Blade wash, 70% isopropyl alcohol,
1717 
1718        Talc, Neckduster/Towels,
1719 
1720        First Aid Kit.
1721 
1722        Hair Gel
1723 
1724        Straight razor w/ change-able blades(Derby Blades!).  
1725 
1726 
1727 
1728       
1729        Combs/Guards
1730 
1731        10 taper/general purpose combs
1732 
1733        2 Flat combs, Pic * 3 sizes
1734 
1735        2 full purple(double magnet) magnetic guard sets plus 2 slide on 1/16 black wahl guards (guard sizes 1-4 and 5-10, $40 on ebay total $80 if two sets are bought)
1736 
1737        1 WAHL Clipper Guard Attachment Combs x 5 Metal Back - Size 1 (3mm) metal (i.e. wahl black slide on guards only sold as a pack i.e. the zero guard is needed) under $15 on ebay.
1738 
1739       
1740 
1741        Clippers
1742 
1743        1 Oster Fast Feed($60 on ebay)
1744 
1745        Andis Improved Masters,($90 on ebay)
1746 
1747        1 Andis Fade Masters,($90 on ebay)
1748 
1749 
1750        Trimmers
1751 
1752        Andis T-Outliners($50 on ebay)  
1753 
1754        Wahl Heros(w/T-wide Blade)[$40 on ebay]
1755 
1756        Chemicals/Oils/Sheens/Disinfectant
1757 
1758 
1759        Andis Cool Care(Note: Andis Cool Care is a Coolant, a disinfectant, a cleaner, a rust preventative, and a lubricant BUT it is not a better lubricant than clipper oil
1760                        [This is important for line up sharpness]).
1761 
1762        Barbicide Disinfectant jar[under $15 on ebay],
1763 
1764        Oil Sheen(Shea Butter), Oil(for Clippers)
1765 
1766        Blade wash, 70% isopropyl alcohol,
1767 
1768        Talc, Neckduster/Towels,
1769 
1770        First Aid Kit.
1771 
1772 
1773        Hair Gel
1774 
1775        Straight razor w/ change-able blades(Derby Blades, under $10 on ebay[100 pack]).  
1776 
1777        Sharpening stone(Under $10 on ebay)
1778 
1779        Buy clippers, trimmers, sharpening stone and double purple magnetic guards from ebay.
1780 
1781 
1782 
1783        (Cost estimate from nothing... $400 dollars you ca get piece by piece not all at once)
1784 
1785        Barbershops in the country(fewer in number): take a less time to build clientele(via a skilled barber[with a good location
1786 
1787        or what not).
1788 
1789        Barbershops in the city(higher in number): may take a longer time to build clientele(via a skilled barber[with a good location
1790 
1791        or what not).
1792 
1793 
1794       The walk-in traffic for each barbershop should be about 1-2 walk-ins per day. Perhaps(but not always) 2-4 on Saturdays.
1795 
1796       Keeping this in forethought in the beginning days of the barbershop(even with the probable free week of booth-rent that
1797 
1798       an owner may offer). It is important to have another source of subsistence funds-wise. So scheduling half and half(30 hours
1799 
1800       for the barbershop and 30 hours for a part time job) is critical. This is important for equipment replacements, transportation,
1801 
1802       and if the shop becomes a little too competitive walk-in wise among-st other barbers(with back to back customers this is
1803 
1804       nullified on the weekends when all hands are full). It is possible if newly acquired customers come in and you are not present
1805 
1806       they could sit in another barber's chair. This is OK(as long as the customer stays "in-house"), meaning whenever that barber is
1807 
1808       not present(with the customer's permission) you can take care of them. A good clientele can be built of 30 hours in the
1809 
1810       barbershop as it was done in barber-school.
1811 
1812       Ensure Long sleeves and black gloves are worn(in addition to a barbering jacket) and gloves are worn when dealing with customers. Use hand sanitizer.
1813 
1814       If a an additional job is taken with a barbering job ensure the hours level off at 25. Have 30 hours in the barber shop and take these vitamins(purchased affordably
1815 
1816       at the dollar general and walmart:  
1817 
1818 
1819   
1820        Line all pills up in dresser:
1821 
1822        Vitamin B-6: 1 Pill (100MG)
1823 
1824        Vitamin B-12: 1 Pill (5000MCG)
1825 
1826        Vitamin C   : ONE HALF PILL(Daily value for a whole pill is at 833%) one half pill because the nature made bottle has Calcium, Magnesium, and Zinc+ Vitamin D3(Calcium,
1827              Magnesium and Zinc is at 33%). Pills are broken in half to stretch them.
1828 
1829        Biotin      : 1 Pill
1830 
1831        Calcium Magnesium Zinc: 1 Pill
1832 
1833        Iron:         1 Pill
1834 
1835        Potassium:    1 Pill
1836 
1837        This is for the time set for sleep only,
1838 
1839        Sleep aid: If its the dollar general sleep aid (i.e. DG Health Night Time Sleep aid) 4 caplets works for me(These can be replaced bi-weekly).  
1840 
1841This is an approach to soften things a bit during the clientele build in a Barbershop:
1842 
1843Save up $1,500
1844 
1845Set up a $75 per week spending limit and start using each set of $75 on Mondays.
1846 
1847This should run out at the end of month 5(This gives plenty of time for clientele builds(Save clients as contacts[Client 1-X number
1848 
1849and a name beside it]). Use octapharma as well.
1850 
1851 It's possible the initial amount of funds can be accumulated up to in 2 months(two sets of 30-31 days[Excluding February{not that big
1852 
1853 of a deal}]) plus 3 days with discipline.
1854 
1855........................................................................