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1Table of Contents
2
3 Robert Haswell Page NA
4 Volume Title Page and Credits Page NA
5 Introduction Page [v]
6 Contents Page NA
7Robert Haswell's Log of the First Voyage of the 'Columbia' Page NA
8 Title Page and Credits Page NA
9 1787. September Page [3]
10 1787. October Page 4
11 1787. November Page 5
12 1787. December Page 7
13 January 6 Page 10
14 1788. March Page 18
15 April 1 Page 20
16 May. Saturday 3d Page 25
17 June. Tuesday 3rd Page 27
18 July. Saturday 19 Page 28
19 August 1 Page 28
20 September. Tuesday 2 Page 45
21 Wednesday the 1st of October Page 52
22 November 19th. Wednesday Page 54
23 Friday [December] 12th Page 55
24 January. Tuesday 13th Page 55
25 February. Wednesday 25th Page 57
26 March the 4th Page 57
27 April Friday 3d Page 74
28 May 1st Page 83
29 Vocabulary of Nootka Sound Page 102
30Miscellaneous Papers Relating to the First Voyage of the 'Columbia' Page [111]
31 Orders given Captain John Kendrick of the ship Columbia for a voyage to the Pacific Ocean, 1787 Page [111]
32 John Kendrick to Joseph Barrell Page 112
33 Memorandum of Monies Paid on the Ship Columbia, [September 27, 1787?] Page 113
34 John Kendrick's Instructions to Robert Gray Page 114
35 John Kendrick to Joseph Barrell Page 115
36 John Kendrick to Robert Gray Page 116
37 Account of Ship Chandlery, etc., Supplied the Washington 1787 Page 117
38 John Kendrick to Don Estevan Josß Martinez Page 118
39 John Kendrick to Don Estevan Josß Martinez Page 119
40 John Kendrick to Don Estevan Josß Martinez Page 119
41 John Kendrick to Joseph Barrell Page 120
42 John Kendrick to the President of Congress Page 121
43 Robert Gray to Joseph Barrell Page 122
44 John B. Treat to Samuel Breck Page 124
45 Inventory of Skins Page 125
46 Robert Gray to John Kendrick Page 126
47 Bill for the Columbia's Supplies Page 127
48 Robert Gray to Joseph Barrell Page 128
49 Messrs. Shaw & Randall to Joseph Barrell Page 130
50 Memorandum of the Cargo of the Ship Columbia at Canton Page 130
51 From the Massachusetts Centinel, January 16, 1790 Page 131
52 Richard S. Howe and Robert Gray to Joseph Barrell Page 131
53 Joseph Ingraham to Robert Gray Page 132
54 John Kendrick to Robert Gray and Richard S. Howe Page 133
55 Robert Gray to John Kendrick Page 133
56 Robert Gray to John Kendrick Page 135
57 Robert Gray to John Kendrick Page 135
58 John Kendrick to Robert Gray and Richard S. Howe Page 136
59 Robert Gray's Accounts with the Owners of the Columbia Page 137
60 Messrs. Shaw & Randall to Joseph Barrell Page 139
61 The Columbia's Accounts with Messrs. Shaw & Randall Page 141
62 Tobias Lear to Joseph Barrell Page 142
63 Richard S. Howe and Robert Gray to Joseph Barrell Page 142
64 Robert Gray's Accounts with the Owners of the Columbia Page 143
65 From the Columbian Centinel, July 31, 1790 Page 144
66 From the Columbian Centinel, August 7, 1790 Page 144
67 From the Columbian Centinel, August 11, 1790 Page 145
68 Journal Extracts: October 26, 1788-July 12, 1789 Page 146
69 Thomas Randall to Joseph Barrell Page 147
70 Estimate of Damage to the Columbia's Cargo Page 148
71 Sale of Columbia's Damaged Cargo Page 148
72 Ship Columbia's Portage Page 150
73 Calculation of the Washington's Cargo and How Expended Page 152
74 John Kendrick to Thomas Jefferson Page 154
75John Hoskins' Narrative of the Second Voyage of the 'Columbia' Page NA
76 The Narrative of a Voyage etc Page [161]
77Robert Haswell's Log of the Second Voyage of the 'Columbia' Page NA
78 A Voyage on Discoveries in the Ship Columbia Rediviva; By Robt. Haswell Page [293]
79John Boit's Log of the Second Voyage of the 'Columbia' Page NA
80 Remarks on the Ship Columbia's voyage from Boston, (on a Voyage, round the Globe) by John Boit Page [363]
81Remnant of the Official Log of the 'Columbia' Page [435]
82Miscellaneous Papers Relating to the Second Voyage of the Columbia Page [441]
83 Sea Letter from the President of the United States to Robert Gray Page [441]
84 Sea Letter from the Governor of Massachusetts to Robert Gray Page 442
85 Certificate of the Columbia's Cargo Page 443
86 Joseph Barrell's Instructions to Robert Gray Page 443
87 Officers and Crew of the Columbia Page 447
88 Expenditures for the Columbia's Outfit and Cargo Ship Columbia, for Outfitts, Cargo, etc. etc Page 448
89 Ship Columbia second Voyage to the N. W. Coast of America Page 465
90 John Hoskins and Robert Gray to Joseph Barrell Page 466
91 Robert Gray and John Hoskins to Joseph Barrell Page 467
92 Robert Gray and John Hoskins to Joseph Barrell Page 467
93 Robert Gray and John Hoskins to Joseph Barrell Page 468
94 Robert Gray and John Hoskins to Joseph Barrell Page 469
95 Robert Gray and John Hoskins to Joseph Barrell Page 469
96 John Kendrick to Joseph Barrell Page 470
97 John Hoskins and Robert Gray to Joseph Barrell Page 473
98 Robert Gray and Joseph Ingraham to Don Juan Francisco de la Bodega y Quadra Page 474
99 Robert Gray and John Hoskins to Joseph Barrell Page 479
100 John Hoskins to Joseph Barrell Page 480
101 John Hoskins' Memorandum on the Trade at Nootka Sound Page 485
102 Robert Gray and John Hoskins to Joseph Barrell Page 486
103 John Hoskins to Joseph Barrell Page 487
104 John Hoskins and Robert Gray to Joseph Barrell Page 488
105 John Howel to Joseph Barrell and Others Page 489
106 John Howel to Joseph Barrell Page 492
107 John Howel to Joseph Barrell Page 494
108-- NA --
109
110Robert Haswell
111
112-- NA --
113
114Volume Title Page and Credits
115Voyages of the "Columbia"
116
117to the Northwest Coast
118
1191787-1790 and 1790-1793
120
121EDITED BY
122
123FREDERIC W. HOWAY
124
125THE MASSACHUSETTS HISTORICAL SOCIETY
126
1271941
128
129-- NA --
130This volume was published at the charge of the
131
132Robert Apthorpe Boit Fund
133
134-- [v] --
135
136Introduction
137THIS volume aims to offer everything of value that is still extant relating to the first voyage of the Columbia and the Washington, 1787-1790, and the second voyage of the Columbia, 1790-1793. It includes four journals: Haswell's First Log, Haswell's Second Log, Hoskins' Narrative, and Boit's Log. In deference to the established usage this nomenclature is followed, though they are all narratives and not, strictly speaking, logs. Besides these, the volume contains the remnant of the official log of the Columbia, May 7-21, 1792, covering the discovery of the Columbia River; letters in connection with the two voyages, principally from the captains to the owners and between themselves; numerous documents from Congressional papers, including the instructions for both voyages, 1 newspaper items touching on the first venture; and miscellaneous papers dealing with and throwing light upon the fur-trade, the outfits of the ships, and other financial matters. In the library of the University of Washington there exists a photostatic copy of a fragmentary log of the Columbia kept by Robert Haswell, the first mate, from September 28, 1790, to October 3, 1791, and by Owen Smith, the second mate, from October 4, 1791, to February 20, 1792. This fragment has not been included as it contains only a record of winds and weather, courses and distances.
138
139-- vi --
140The Two Voyages: 1787-1790, 1790-1793
141
142For more than forty years Boston was closely connected with the maritime trade on the Northwest Coast of America. Her farseeing merchants, led by Joseph Barrell, upon reading the account of Captain Cook's third voyage, saw in that region's wealth of fur a means of entering into the China trade with a commodity eagerly sought for and much valued by the Chinese. Barrell interested five other gentlemen, and they resolved upon a pioneer venture. His associates were Samuel Brown of Boston, a prosperous merchant; Charles Bulfinch of the same city; Crowell Hatch, a sea captain of Cambridge; John Derby, a wealthy shipowner of Salem; and John M. Pintard, a merchant of New York.
143
144In 1787, at a cost of $ 50,000, these six adventurers purchased and outfitted two vessels: the Columbia Rediviva, commonly called the Columbia, and the sloop Washington, or, to give her full name, the Lady Washington. The Columbia was a ship of 212 8/95 tons, 83'6' long and 24'2' beam, built in 1787 at Plymouth, Massachusetts. 2 The Washington was a sloop of 90 tons. The owners appointed John Kendrick of Wareham the commander of the expedition and master of the Columbia. For the command of the Washington, which was to act as a tender to the Columbia in accordance with the plan outlined in Cook's account of his third voyage, they designated Robert Gray of Tiverton, Rhode Island.
145
146When the two vessels sailed from Boston on September 30,
147
148-- vii --
1491787, a voyage to the Northwest Coast was an adventure into the unknown. Captain Cook had in 1778 shown dimly the coast line from a short distance beyond Cape Mendocino to Nootka Sound; but the stretch thence to Sitka, Alaska, he had left blank. The British traders, who had been operating since 1785, had filled in the salient features and rough outlines of the labyrinth in that region, but their discoveries had not then been published.
150
151The Columbia and the Washington separated on April 1, 1788, in a gale off Cape Horn, and each made her way to the rendezvous at Nootka Sound. The sloop arrived on September 17, 1788, and a week later the ship anchored within fifty yards. Both remained in the sound until the following March, when Gray, in the sloop, sailed on trading voyages to the southward as far as the Strait of Juan de Fuca and to the northward to Bucareli Bay, Alaska. In the course of the northern voyage Gray demonstrated the insularity of the Queen Charlotte Islands, which Dixon had inferred two years before. On that occasion Gray made one of the most notable barters in the story of the maritime fur-trade. Near Cloak Bay, Queen Charlotte Islands, where Dixon two years before had in half an hour obtained three hundred sea-otter skins, he "in a very fue moments," as Haswell expresses it, secured two hundred at the rate of one chisel each. These chisels were merely bits of flat iron drawn to a cutting edge, similar to those used by carpenters. At this time one of the mysteries of American geography was the Strait of Anian or the Northwest Passage. Gray and his crew evidently thought that the so-called Admiral de Fonte had actually made his alleged expedition, and were ready to believe that in their northern voyaging they had found the strait by which he claimed to have sailed to Hudson Bay. The venturesome sloop returned to Nootka on June 16 and found
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153-- viii --
154the Columbia there, still lying inert, not having sailed a mile in search of trade. The two vessels then went to Clayoquot Sound where the skins collected by the sloop were transferred to the ship. Captain Gray took the command of the Columbia and set sail for Boston by way of the Hawaiian Islands and China, leaving the Washington under Captain Kendrick on the coast to continue the trade. The Washington arrived in China on January 26, 1790, with a cargo of sea-otter skins which Kendrick sold for $18,000. He then altered the rig of the Washington from a sloop to a brigantine. Though the Washington remained in the maritime trade for five years thereafter and her end is not exactly known, she never saw Boston again. Worse still, Kendrick acted to all intents as her owner. Indeed, he made a sham sale of her -- "to cheat the owners" -- and never remitted a cent or even made any accounting. It is unnecessary, therefore, to follow her movements further.
155
156The Columbia, with Gray in command, returned to Boston on August 9, 1790: the first vessel to carry the Stars and Stripes around the world. Owing to many causes -- the ignorance of the trade, the appropriation by Kendrick of the Washington and her cargo, the damage to the teas carried back by the Columbia to Boston, but above all to the inertness and incapacity (or worse) of the commander, John Kendrick -- this pioneer venture was not a financial success. Nevertheless her owners, undaunted, resolved to make a second effort. Derby and Pintard dropped out, but their shares were taken over by Captain Gray and two men by the names of Davenport and McLean. The cargo of trading goods on this second voyage of the Columbia was valued at £1,519 10s; the total investment represented £6,254. Great expedition was shown in making the Columbia ready for sea. She sailed from Boston on September 28, 1790 -- only about six weeks after her arrival. Captain Gray
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158-- ix --
159was in command, with Robert Haswell as first mate. The celerity of her outward-bound voyage under Gray is in marked contrast with the dilatoriness of the previous one under Kendrick. The passage under Gray was accomplished in a little more than eight months, whereas under Kendrick it had occupied almost a year. The exact dates are: first voyage, September 30, 1787 -- September 23, 1788; second voyage, September 28, 1790 -- June 4, 1791. Even when every allowance is made for the first as a pioneer effort, the difference is still so marked that the reader will probably agree with Captain Gray's statement that Kendrick was not "a nimble leader."
160
161After spending the season of 1791 in trading along the Northwest Coast, the Columbia went into winter quarters at Clayoquot Sound, Vancouver Island. During the ensuing winter the sloop Adventure, the frame of which had been brought out from Boston, was built at Adventure Cove, as Gray called his wintering place. In March, 1792, Haswell was placed in command of the Adventure, in which he traded to the northward during the season. He was thus, unfortunately, hundreds of miles away when on that notable day in May, 1792, Captain Gray sailed the Columbia into the Great River of the West -- ever afterwards to bear the name of the brave little vessel. On his return from that fruitful discovery Gray cruised northward in company with Haswell in the Adventure, seeking sea-otter skins. Somewhere in the neighborhood of Milbanke Sound the Columbia struck a rock which, fortunately, Haswell had been able to avoid. This accident threatened a disastrous termination of the expedition; but Gray, equal to every emergency, made temporary repairs and proceeded on his way. After ineffectual efforts to reach the damaged part of the hull by heeling the ship, Gray reluctantly steered for the Spanish settlement at Nootka Sound. The efficient manner in which he soon made
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163-- x --
164the Columbia again seaworthy evoked the highest praise of the Spaniards, who, according to Boit's log, said that they believed "we could build a ship in a month." With the season ended and the Adventure sold to the Spaniards, Gray departed for Boston by way of China. Having disposed of his cargo of seaotter skins and loaded the Columbia with its produce in Oriental goods, he resumed his homeward voyage, and the good ship dropped anchor in Boston Harbor on July 29, 1793.
165
166After having, by the discovery of the Columbia River, laid one of the foundations of her country's claims to the region "where flows the Oregon," the movements of the Columbia are uncertain, for it is difficult to identify her among the various ships bearing that name. At any rate, the historic Columbia was demolished in 1801. The cancellation date on her register in the National Archives is October 15, 1801; accompanying it is the laconic statement: "ript to pieces."
167
168It is usually stated that the Columbia and the Washington were the first American vessels to engage in the maritime furtrade on the Northwest Coast. That they were the first to sail from New England for that purpose is very clear; but that they were the first American ships in that trade is not so certain. It is possible that further research may show that the honor of being the American pioneer in that trade rests with the Eleanora, a brig of New York commanded by Captain Simon Metcalfe. In any event, the records of the East India Company show that the American brig Eleanora, Captain Simon Metcalfe, arrived in Canton on August 12, 1788, from Bengal and Batavia. "She left America last season," says the entry -- whatever that may mean. John Boit, in his log of the Union, sets down the information obtained by him from the celebrated John Young as follows: "It appeared that Capt. Metcalf had
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170-- xi --
171purchased this small vessel [the Fair American] at Macao after his arrival at that port in the Elenora from the N. W. Coast and did then fit her with the Snow for the Coast again and gave the command of her to his eldest son. The two vessels was to have kept company, but in a gale of wind off the Coast of Japan they separated." Inasmuch as Metcalfe's two vessels were on the Northwest Coast in 1789 and Young was then the boatswain of the Eleanora and in a position to know her movements in the preceding year, it follows that if this quotation is a correct report of what Young told Boit, the Eleanora was trading on the Northwest Coast when the Columbia and the Washington were still en route. But the point is not at all clear. 3
172
173The Two Captains: John Kendrick and Robert Gray
174
175John Kendrick, the master of the Columbia and commander of the first expedition, was born about 1740 at Harwich, Massachusetts. He early took to the sea. In his twenties he was one of the crew of a whaler in the Gulf of St. Lawrence. Later he was a soldier in the French and Indian War. He married in 1767 and, returning to sea, became master of vessels sailing between Boston and southern ports. In the Revolutionary War he commanded ships sailing under letters of marque, preying upon British commerce. His home was at Edgartown, Martha's Vineyard, until 1778 when he removed to Wareham.
176
177He was about forty-seven years of age when he sailed in command of the pioneer trading expedition from Boston to the Northwest Coast. After the exchange of vessels in July, 1789, he traded on the coast in the Washington for about two months and then left for China. From his arrival there in January,
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179-- xii --
1801790, Kendrick's conduct was and still is the subject of much criticism. His actions gave rise to ugly rumors and to the suspicion that he had appropriated his owners' property. The correspondence of John Howel included in this volume shows that Kendrick treated the Washington and her cargo as his own property. The only letter on the matter written by Kendrick to his owners is illuminating and has the tone not of an employee but of an independent proprietor. It is dated March 28, 1792, and is published in this volume. In it he regrets that the Columbia did not call at Macao on her return voyage to Boston in February, 1790, to receive his dispatches, "otherwise something handsome might have been sent you." This is the most flimsy excuse, for there was regular communication with England by the East India Company's ships and with Boston by the American vessels sailing each spring at least. He acknowledges that he had sold the Washington -- to himself, as appears from Howel's letters -- but declares that it was only "a sham sale." However, from that time he treated the vessel and her cargo as his own, operated her and carried on trade in her on his own account, going, as was to be expected, every year deeper and deeper in debt. From China he made two voyages to the Northwest Coast in the Washington: in 1791 and in 1793-1794. Captain Kendrick was accidentally killed at Honolulu, Oahu, on December 12, 1794, while on his return to China. The circumstances appear to be that Captain Brown of the Jackal, having aided the king of Oahu in securing a victory over invaders of that island, was firing a salute in honor of the event. Through an oversight the charge of round and grapeshot was not removed from one of the saluting guns, and the shot passed through the hull of the Washington, killing Kendrick and several of his crew.
181
182Thus died Captain John Kendrick at the age of fifty-four.
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184-- xiii --
185I have written elsewhere a sketch of Kendrick's life. 4 Further study has but confirmed the characterization therein contained, which it is believed the discerning reader of this volume will find to be supported by the documents it contains. I then wrote:
186
187As a commander of an expedition he was a complete failure; even his friend Hoskins has to admit that "to be sure the man was by no means calculated for the charge of such an expedition, but a better man might have done worse." But when his responsibility was reduced to the control and direction of a small vessel he showed qualities of initiative, perseverance, courage, energy, and foresight. He was a good seaman, a kind-hearted, though quick-tempered man. He seems to have been whimsical and vacillating. He shows himself as a man jealous of his authority, self-willed and dictatorial, but yet amenable to reason if approached in a proper spirit and manner. He has a keen eye for opportunities and possibilities of trade development, especially where they lay beyond, or at one side of, the beaten paths. His uncertainty of action and his leisurely movements were the defects which prevented him from obtaining those results to which his other qualities should have entitled him.
188
189This estimate, it will be observed, lies about midway between the laudation of Kendrick's friend, Amasa Delano, 5 and the condemnation by John Howel in his letters to Joseph Barrell in this volume.
190
191Captain Robert Gray was born on May 10, 1755, at Tiverton, Rhode Island. It is said that as a young man of twenty he was in the naval service of the United States during the Revolutionary War, but of this there is no satisfactory evidence. At any rate, as a man of thirty-two who had been in command of a ship belonging to Samuel Brown and Crowell Hatch, two of the persons interested in the expedition of the Columbia and
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193-- xiv --
194the Washington, he was selected as the master of the sloop Washington. After his return in July, 1793, from the second voyage of the Columbia, he was master of coasting vessels out of Boston. In the trouble with France in 1799 he commanded the privateer Lucy, carrying twelve guns and a crew of twenty-five men. The war being ended, he returned to the merchant service and made a number of voyages to England and to the southern states. The date of his death remains unascertained despite every inquiry and much search amongst old records and newspaper files. According to Mrs. Gray's petition to Congress on January 17, 1846, her husband "died in the summer of 1806, leaving four daughters and very little property." It is believed that he died of yellow fever on a voyage from Charleston, South Carolina, in that year.
195
196Thus only the main incidents of his life are known, but when combined with the references to him in the documents herewith published, certain conclusions appear to be justified. Captain Gray was a resolute, self-reliant, and determined man, one who clearly saw his objective and pressed forward to it, overcoming and almost despising intervening obstacles. Hoskins even thought that his courage and determination went sometimes to the extent of foolhardiness. He was eminently practical; facts to him were very real; in his undertakings dreams had no place. He was of a kind and affable disposition, but subject to quick and sudden outbursts of temper. He was, above all, a consummate seaman, and knew how to win and control his crew. How much credence is to be placed in Hoskins' and Howel's allegations of dishonesty is left for further consideration, as there is no known supporting evidence.
197
198Captain Gray's outstanding achievement for his country and the world was his discovery of the River of the West. On that May day in 1792 when he drove his ship through the jumbled
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200-- xv --
201mass of foaming water and seething breakers into the much-named but, till then, unseen river, now the Columbia, he earned for himself and his ship an imperishable renown.
202
203The Logs of the Two Voyages
204
205The original manuscript of Haswell's First Log, owned by Mrs. Edward Cummings, a descendant of Haswell, is on deposit at the Massachusetts Historical Society. The text has never been published in its entirety. A portion of it, edited by Mr. T. C. Elliott from a copy in the Bancroft Library at Berkeley, California, is in the Oregon Historical Quarterly (XXIX. 162-188), and a prßcis is appended to the 1886 edition of Hubert H. Bancroft's History of the Northwest Coast. The whereabouts of the original manuscript of Haswell's Second Log is unknown, but there is a copy in the Bancroft Library, Berkeley, California, which, in the absence of the original, has been used here. The original manuscript of John Boit's Log is another of the treasures of the Massachusetts Historical Society. The complete text has already been printed in that Society's Proceedings (LIII. 218-275) and in the Oregon Historical Quarterly (XXII. 265-349). By the kind permission of the Oregon Historical Society the footnotes accompanying the latter edition of the log have been used as a basis for the footnotes to the text printed in this volume. The Massachusetts Historical Society also owns the original manuscript of Hoskins' Narrative. There is in the possession of Mrs. Edith R. Emerson of Lexington, Massachusetts, another original manuscript by Hoskins, "A Journal of a Voyage round the World in the ship Columbia Rediviva." This is a document of some five thousand words and is plainly a much condensed version of the Narrative. It contains nothing that is not to be found in greater detail in the longer document. Oddly enough, it ends just as abruptly as the Narrative -- in
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207-- xvi --
208the middle of a sentence -- and in connection with the same incident. Throughout this volume, where access to the original documents has been possible, they have, with the few exceptions pointed out in the notes, been followed exactly.
209
210Haswell's First Log is a very valuable document: it is the only, though unfortunately incomplete, record still extant of the first voyage of the Columbia and the Washington. It appears, however, that Joseph Ingraham, the first mate of the Columbia, also kept an account of this expedition, to which he often refers in his manuscript journal of the Hope, 1790-1792. For instance, under the date of October, 1791, he says: "In my account of that voyage I took great pains to learn every particular respecting the [Hawaiian] Islands and their inhabitants, the description of which occupies many pages in that work." In the entry for November 30, 1791, speaking of William Douglas of the Grace, Ingraham calls him "my friend of whom I made frequent mention in the journal of my last voyage, particularly in the transactions at Nootka Sound." That journal seems to have disappeared, leaving Haswell as our sole authority. In June, 1791, David Humphreys, the United States Minister to Portugal, wrote: "I have been informed by a young gentleman from Boston that a very intelligent and accurate journal was kept by one of the officers on the Washington." This remark has been thought by some to refer to the missing Ingraham journal; but if the minister's language is exact, the allusion is to Haswell's First Log, for Ingraham was throughout the voyage the first mate of the Columbia, whereas Haswell was second mate of the Washington from February, 1788, until July, 1789.
211
212The three other narratives in this volume relate to the second voyage, 1790-1793. As is usual in journals of the fur-trade, both Haswell's Second Log and Hoskins' Narrative are incomplete.
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214-- xvii --
215The former begins in August, 1791, and continues till the ship arrives in China; the other covers the voyage from its commencement until March, 1792, when the Columbia leaves her winter quarters to engage in the season's trade. Boit's Log is, fortunately, a complete account of the voyage. It contains his version of the ship's discovery of the Columbia River and thus supplements the remnant of the official log on that important event. 6
216
217The Authors of the Narratives
218
219Robert Haswell, 7 the author of the two so-called logs that bear his name, was born, according to an entry in the Second Log, on November 24, 1768. The place of his birth is unknown, but it was probably in Massachusetts. He was the eldest son and second child of William Haswell, a lieutenant in the British navy.
220
221Little is known of his boyhood. At the outbreak of the Revolutionary War he was a child of less than seven years. As his father remained loyal to the British Crown, the whole family was interned, and about 1778 was sent to Halifax, Nova Scotia. Later -- but when is not definitely known -- they removed to Yorkshire, England.
222
223When Robert Haswell returned to Massachusetts and how he had spent the intervening years have not been ascertained. At any rate, in September, 1787, as a boy of nearly nineteen, he joined the Columbia as third mate, a fact which supports the conclusion that he had already been to sea.
224
225Owing to differences with Captain Kendrick, the first mate
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227-- xviii --
228of the ship, Simeon Woodruff, took his discharge at the Cape Verde Islands, and Haswell was promoted to the position of second officer. But by the time the Columbia reached the Falkland Islands the relations between him and Kendrick had become so tense that Haswell left the ship and became second officer of her consort, the sloop Washington.
229
230He remained with Captain Gray on the sloop until July, 1789. While the two vessels were on the coast -- September, 1788 -- July, 1789 -- all the cruising for trade was done by the sloop. It is fortunate for those seeking to reconstruct the life and incidents on the trading grounds that Haswell was on her and kept a record, for from the time the Columbia reached Nootka Sound she swung there lazily at anchor until ten months had elapsed, when, with Gray in command and Haswell as second officer, she sailed for Clayoquot Sound in preparation for her return to Boston. All the correspondence now extant concerning the first venture is contained in this volume. It throws no real light upon the reasons that induced Kendrick and Gray to exchange vessels, or upon the question whether it was intended to be a permanent or merely a temporary arrangement.
231
232On the second voyage of the Columbia, Gray was her master, and Haswell her first officer. After the Adventure was launched in March, 1792, Haswell was made her commander, and he voyaged northward for trade. This small sloop was sold to the Spaniards in September, 1792, on the eve of the Columbia's departure from the coast, and Haswell resumed his old position as first mate on the return voyage to Boston.
233
234From his arrival on the Columbia in July, 1793, until October, 1798, Haswell's movements are difficult to piece together. In that interval he was in command of two Boston vessels owned by one S. Smith: the ship Hannah of 280 tons and
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237the ship John Jay of 217 tons. It seems that in the autumn of 1793 Haswell sailed as master of the Hannah on a voyage to the East Indies, from which he returned in January, 1796. In a letter dated Boston, January 20, 1796, he wrote: "I arrived here a few days since from England. . . . My last voyage has been twenty-seven months long. . . ." His next command was the John Jay. The only information thereon is in Samuel Hill's manuscript autobiography, now owned by the New York Public Library. The dates therein given are incorrect; and, owing to the absence of customhouse records and of shipping news in the Boston newspapers, the exact dates of the sailing and return of the John Jay cannot now be ascertained. However, the John Jay, it is clear, returned before October 10, 1798, for on that day, at Reading, Massachusetts, Haswell married Mary Cordis, a daughter of Joseph Cordis, Esq., of that place. Of this marriage two children were born, Mary and Rebecca Cordis.
238
239Soon after his marriage -- March 4, 1799 -- Haswell entered the United States Navy as a lieutenant. He saw active service as first lieutenant of the United States Frigate Boston, Captain George W. Little commanding. This handsome, speedy ship-of-war, on October 12, 1800, after an action lasting one hour and forty minutes, captured the French national corvette Le Berceau. Haswell brought the prize safely into Boston Harbor on November 15, his share of the prize money being $286.35. 8 Haswell remained in the service for more than two years. His last appearance on its records is April 13, 1801.
240
241Shortly after leaving the navy, Haswell was appointed to the command of the ship Louisa of Boston for a voyage to the Northwest Coast, China, and return -- a route that was familiar to him from his life aboard the Columbia. The Louisa cleared
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243-- xx --
244from Boston between the fifth and the eighth of August, 1801, and was never heard of thereafter. How the ship was lost or where is one of the mysteries of the sea. But in the Haswell family there is preserved a beautiful piece of painting and embroidery representing Haswell's widow and his two daughters at a tomb and in the distance a ship dashing against a rocky shore. A reproduction appears in this volume.
245
246Haswell, at the time of his sailing on his last voyage, was a resident of Charlestown, Massachusetts. He died intestate; and on July 2, 1805, his widow, then of Newton, applied for administration of his estate, which was valued at $4,630.47.
247
248John Hoskins, or, to give him his full name, John Box Hoskins, the author of the account of the second voyage of the Columbia called the Narrative, was born in Boston and was baptized in King's Chapel on December 14, 1768. His father, William Hoskins, was for about ten years the senior member of the Boston firm William Hoskins & Co., engaged in business in a large way as builders, owners, and operators of ships and importers of general commodities. Before the outbreak of the Revolutionary War, however, the firm ceased its activities. Later, upon the death of Commissary General Trumbull in 1778, William Hoskins was appointed by Congress to settle Trumbull's affairs, a duty which he performed so satisfactorily that Congress offered him a seat on the Treasury Board. He took a prominent and active part in the service of his country and was held in high esteem by John Hancock. He numbered amongst his friends General Joseph Warren, James Otis, and Paul Revere.
249
250Sterling qualities, therefore, were the birthright of John Box Hoskins. His father died in May, 1786, when young Hoskins was in his eighteenth year, and Joseph Barrell, a staunch friend
251
252-- xxi --
253of the family, took the lad into his home and later into his countinghouse.
254
255The first voyage of the Columbia had resulted in financial loss to Barrell and his co-adventurers. Barrell, being the principal owner, was not satisfied with the conduct of those in charge of the venture -- or perhaps he had heard some of the ugly rumors that were floating around. When it was determined to make a second effort, he placed young Hoskins on the Columbia as ship's clerk or supercargo. It is plain from Hoskin's correspondence with Barrell that Captain Gray, who was in command of the vessel, regarded Hoskins as a spy upon his actions. That Barrell had made a wise choice is clear from John Howel's letter to him dated May 11, 1795: "Except Mr. Hoskins I hardly ever saw a man in your N. W. employ, who was not either fool or Rogue, and your commanders united both those characters." While Howel was no saint himself, the surrounding circumstances lend support to this estimate. There is an air of unreserved truth in Hoskins' letters that is in marked contrast with the half-revealing, non-communicative language of Kendrick's correspondence.
256
257Some time after the return of the Columbia in 1793 (but when is not known) Hoskins married his first wife. Her surname is not recorded; it is only known that her Christian name was Lydia. By her he had two children: John Joseph, born January 15, 1799, and a daughter, Lydia. He became a merchant in partnership with one of the sons of his patron, Joseph Barrell, under the firm name of Barrell and Hoskins, carrying on business at Codman's Wharf, Boston. Hoskins' elder brother William was in business in Bordeaux, France, and John seems to have gone there on a visit in 1795, for in June of that year Joseph Barrell, writing to Colborn Barrell in London, said: "I will write Mr. John Hoskins, who is now in France." This
258
259-- xxii --
260would indicate that Hoskins' visit there was a lengthy one. For some years, it would appear, after his return from this absence Hoskins continued in business in Boston; but, probably about the year 1804, his wife having died, he returned to France, taking his two children with him. He took up his residence in Bordeaux but, as his letters show, traveled quite extensively, whether for pleasure or profit is unknown. At a subsequent, but unknown, date he married his second wife, Catherine Girard of Bordeaux, a sister of Stephen Girard, the famous banker-merchant-philanthropist of Philadelphia. At some date prior to July, 1824, Hoskins died at the Isle of France where his daughter Lydia, who had married Antoine Titan, had made her home.
261
262John Boit, the author of the only complete narrative of the second voyage of the Columbia, was born in Boston on October 15, 1774. He was the son of John Boit, a merchant of that city who was a large importer of goods from the East and the West Indies. He was probably educated at the Boston Latin School.
263
264The love of the sea was in the blood of the sons of Massachusetts; and young Boit at the age of sixteen shipped as fifth mate on the Columbia, under Captain Robert Gray. Returning from that voyage in July, 1793, he became in the following September the mate of the ship Eliza, John Bass master, on a voyage to Virginia and thence to Dublin with passengers and a general cargo. The Eliza returned to Charleston, South Carolina, on April 1, 1794. Boit's journal of the voyage, embellished with a drawing of the ship, is in the possession of the Massachusetts Historical Society. He sailed again on August 1, 1794, from Newport, Rhode Island, in command of the sloop Union of ninety-eight tons burthen, of which his brother-in-law, Caleb Hatch, was a half owner. "Adieu to the pretty girls
265
266-- xxiii --
267of Newport," mournfully says Boit in his log of that voyage. He was then only nineteen years of age. The fact that he, a mere boy in his teens, was entrusted with the command of this vessel to sail to the Northwest Coast, engage in the maritime trade there, proceed thence to China to exchange the sea-otter skins for Oriental goods, and finally return to Boston speaks volumes for his complete mastery of his profession, his management of men, and his general ability. He handled his crew like an old hand, fought off an Indian attack, and ended a successful voyage by bringing the little sloop back to her home port. But the only notice taken of such a remarkable achievement was the laconic note under "Nautical Intelligence" in the Columbian Centinel of July 13, 1796: "Arrived since our last . . . sloop Union, Boit, Canton." His log of the voyage is in the possession of the Massachusetts Historical Society. It is illustrated with two colored sketches of the sloop, one of which shows her entering Boston Harbor.
268
269A month ashore and Boit was off again on the high seas, this time as master of the snow George, an English store vessel which had been captured by a French privateer and sold in Boston to Crowell Hatch and David Green. She was a slow-sailing, leaky old tub. In her he left Boston on September 14, 1796, for the Isle of France (Mauritius), then a place very popular with Yankee adventurers. By good fortune he arrived there the following March, his crew exhausted, and the snow in an almost sinking condition, the lumbering old tub having barely survived a heavy gale. He patched her up and sold her, returning as a passenger on November 26, 1797, to Newport. "God send that I may never sail in the like of her again," Boit prayerfully writes in the log of the George's voyage. Nevertheless he placed therein a colored drawing of the poor old thing.
270
271At this point there is a gap in Boit's story until August 20,
272
273-- xxiv --
2741799, when he married Eleanor Jones, one of those "pretty girls of Newport." She is evidently the lady to whom he refers at the end of the log of the sloop Hiram: "In pursuit of Miss E. J. In her smiles to be happy. Fortune de Ger [guerre]." Boit made three voyages as master of the "Gallant Ship Mount Hope," of 600 tons, a large vessel for those days, owned by Messrs. Gibbs & Channing. The logs of two of these voyages are in the library of the Massachusetts Historical Society: one is a voyage to Batavia, June 16, 1801 -- April 3, 1802; the other to the island of Bourbon (Rßunion), November 25, 1805-October 13, 1806. The third voyage in the Mount Hope occupied the interval.
275
276After 1806 Boit appears to have continued to follow the sea. He may have made a voyage or two to the Isle of France, for he was only thirty-two years of age -- too young for retirement. Moreover, the necessity of providing for a young and steadily increasing family was imperious. When he retired from the sea is not known; but in 1813 he was in business as a merchant on Summer Street, Boston. By 1816 he had branched out as an importer, in partnership with Joseph Bray, with headquarters at 43 India Wharf. However, the sea, his home for thirty years, called loudly to him, and he heeded the call. At the age of forty-eight -- a time when most men, especially those who, like himself, had spent a wandering and adventurous life, felt the urge for a quiet seat by the chimney corner -- he resumed his life on the ocean wave. In 1822 he is found in command of the brig Sally Ann of Boston, carrying merchandise shipped by Thomas Lamb to Havana, and there are records of him in that place as late as March, 1823. In January, 1824, he was in command of the brig Barbara, also bound for Havana. He is listed in the Boston directories of 1825 and 1826 as a mariner, with a residence on Federal Street. In July of the latter year there
277
278-- xxv --
279is also a record of him in London as captain of the ship Mercury. In 1828 he again appears in the Boston directory, described as a mariner with a residence on Beacon Street. He died on March 10, 1829, at the age of fifty-five. He left seven children: Ellen M., Caroline, Henry, Mary, Harriet, Edward Darley, and Julia Overing.
280
281John Boit was a man of good education, with a fine appreciation of the better things in life. He had, evidently, an acquaintance with and a love of the best in English literature. His log books are crammed with quotations from the standard authors. He even tried his hand at poetic composition, and his ten-line poem "Hoisting the Sails" is of real merit. He was a fine seaman: his rapid rise is sufficient evidence of his capacity as a navigator. In the back of the volume containing his log of the Mount Hope Boit kept a commonplace book. In it he entered the following quotation as a good summary of fine character:
282
283I live in terms of good neighbourhood with all about me; sometimes I go to their houses, sometimes invite them to mine; my table is neat and clean, and sufficiently affluent, without extravagance.
284
285I slander no one, nor do I allow backbiters to come near me; my eyes pry not into the actions of other men, nor have I any impertinent curiosity to know the secrets of their lives.
286
287I go to church ev'ry Sunday, and the poor man partakes of my substance; I make no ostentation of the good I do, that I may defend myself against the attacks of hypocrisy and vain glory, well knowing that the best fortifyed heart is hardly proof against these sly deceivers.
288
289As far as I have an opportunity, I am a reconciler of differences among my neighbours. And I have an entire dependance on the mercies of God our Saviour.
290
291The Trade
292
293The maritime fur-trade, in which the Columbia and the Washington were engaged, came into existence as a direct result
294
295-- xxvi --
296of Captain James Cook's third voyage. Though commenced in 1785 by the British, it soon fell into the hands of the citizens of the United States and especially those of Boston. Many factors contributed to this result, not the least of which were the monopolies of the South Sea Company and the East India Company. The former's monopoly extended along the whole western coast of America from Cape Horn to the frozen North and three hundred leagues into the ocean; the other's monopoly prevented British subjects from trading eastward of the Cape of Good Hope. The sea-otter, which was the animal of the maritime fur-trade, was only obtainable within the limits of the one, and only salable to advantage in China within the monopoly area of the other. Thus together these monopolies closed the Pacific Ocean to British merchants unless they obtained licenses from the monopoly-owning companies; but these licenses, which contained stringent terms, never permitted the licensees to purchase with the produce of their trade Oriental goods to be imported and sold in England. The New England traders were exempt from these galling restrictions. They made fortunes while the traders of Old England lost them.
297
298The maritime fur-trade was, during its best days at any rate, one of individual effort and constant change. Masters rarely made more than three voyages, and ships scarcely so many. Out of this condition arose the natural temptation, for the man who did not expect to return, to seize the present gain, regardless of the means and utterly oblivious of its possible effect on subsequent traders. Haswell records in his first log the method adopted (as he says) by Meares to obtain sea-otter skins from the Indians through force and fear. Many similar cases are to be found in the journals. The traders had no hesitation in acknowledging that they themselves had resorted to such practices, though, of course, they always had some plausible excuse.
299
300-- xxvii --
301In such high handed acts lay the root of the so-called unprovoked attacks by the natives upon the trading vessels. Force breeds force. The traders sowed the dragon's teeth, though, unlike Cadmus, they failed to throw the stone. The wrong had been done by one vessel, and the Indians, believers in vicarious responsibility, took revenge on the next ship that happened to visit them -- if the opportunity offered. If it did not, they waited patiently for a ship less carefully guarded.
302
303Various matters relating to the maritime fur-trade are mentioned in these journals and are dealt with in the notes. For a rough view of the rise and fall of this trade, the reader may consult my paper, "An Outline Sketch of the Maritime Fur-Trade," in the Annual Report of the Canadian Historical Association for 1932.
304
305Frederic W. Howay
306
307-- NA --
308
309Contents
310PAGE
311Introduction v
312Robert Haswell's Log of the First Voyage of the Columbia 3
313Miscellaneous Papers Relating to the First Voyage of the Columbia 111
314John Hoskins' Narrative of the Second Voyage of the Columbia 161
315Robert Haswell's Log of the Second Voyage of the Columbia 293
316John Boit's Log of the Second Voyage of the Columbia 363
317Remnant of the Official Log of the Columbia 435
318Miscellaneous Papers Relating to the Second Voyage of the Columbia 441
319Index 499
320-- NA --
321ILLUSTRATIONS
322
323
324
325PAGE
326Robert Haswell From a Miniature owned by Samuel Osgood Miller, Esq. Frontispiece
327Modern Map of the Northwest Coast v
328Title Page of Haswell's Log of the First Voyage, with His Drawing of the Columbia and the Washington 3
329Joseph Barrell From a Portrait, by an Unidentified Artist, owned by Mrs. Henry T. Chickering 112
330The Columbia Medal From an Original in Silver owned by the Society 162
331The Columbia's Winter Quarters in Adventure Cove From a Drawing by George Davidson owned by the Reverend Clifford Gray Twombly 252
332Haswell's Map of Chickleset Sound 336
333Haswell's Map of Port Banks 345
334Memorial to Robert Haswell From an Embroidered Painting owned by Samuel Osgood Miller, Esq. 358
335The Columbia Attacked by Indians From a Drawing by George Davidson owned by the Reverend Clifford Gray Twombly 404
336Captain Gray Ashore at Whampoa From a Drawing by George Davidson owned by the Reverend Clifford Gray Twombly 422
337George Davidson From a Portrait, by an Unidentified Artist, owned by the Concord Antiquarian Society 447
338-- NA --
339
340Robert Haswell's Log of the First Voyage of the 'Columbia'
341-- NA --
342
343Title Page and Credits
344AVOYAGE
345
346ROUND THE WORLD
347
348Onboard the Ship
349
350COLUMBIA-REDIVIVA
351
352and Sloop
353
354WASHINGTON.
355
356-- [3] --
357
3581787. September
359A VOYAGE Round the World
360
361
362
363EARLY in the fitting of the Columbia for a Voyage round the World, I was employed as third Officer, 9 Great expedition was used to forward our departure and on the [ ] the Ship was hauled off from the wharf and anchored in the Harbour, here numberless articles of her provisions, stors etca. were received onboard and on the [ ] the Pilot came onboard and we were removed down to the Castle roads 10 where we anchored with the small bower and mored with the Streem anchor.
364
365Friday the [ ] 11 the Sloop Washington 12 Captain Robt. Gray, who is to be our consert; anchored in the Roads.
366
367Saturday the [ ] 13 I took my Baggage onboard and in the afternoon Mr. Jo. Ingraham 14 the second Mate came onboard with his bagage etca. for the first time: till late in the evening all hand[s] were employed [2] clearing the deacks, which were much lumbered, and geting in readiness for sea.
368
369On Sunday morning 15 being the day we were to sail we were thronged with the friends of allmost all our people and about Noon Capt. Kendrick, Lieut. Howe his Clerk Mr. Trut the furier Mr. Roberts our Sirjon and Mr. Nutting 16 the Astronimer came onboard
370
371-- 4 --
372with the pilot accompaneyed by a great number of the Merchents Gentlemen and others of Boston.
373
374The Ship was got under way and proceeded down as far as Nantaskit roads where we anchored it being nearly calm in Company with the Washington.
375
376The evening was spent in murth and glee the highest flow of spirits animating the whole Company Jovial songs and animating sentiments passed the last evening we spent on that side of the Continent, our Friends parted not with us untill late in the evening, nor then, without the most tender expressions of Friendship, and there [3] wishes for our prosperity resounded from every tongue.
377
3781787. October
379Early on Monday morning 17 we weighed and came to sail and by sunrise were out of the Harbour.
380
381A track so frequently passed as to the Cape de Verds, can aford but little entertainment or information to a reader, nay, it would not be in my power to say much of a passage where scarsely the nesecary observations for navigating the Ship were taken; and as nautical observations are what may most interest the Navigator and it are only them that can mark a track so frequently trod: little of course can be expected.
382
383From the 2nd till the 4th the wether was moderate and Winds favourable. We took our departure from Cape Cod and had on the 4 made 10 Degrees of Longitude tho no press of Sail was caried when we were overtaken by a sharp Squall from the West north West which reduced us [4] to our fore sail. It howevour soon abated but alltho' there was not more wind than would forse Us four knotts we still continued, under that Sail nineteen hours. The weather was rainey and disagreable on the 5th we were in Latitd. 40°08' N and Longitude 59°50' W.
384
385The Winds were moderate and variable till the 7th When we spoke a ship from Liverpool bound to New York her Longitude by Account was 61°00' W.
386
387The winds now hung between the North and East on the 10 we were in Latitude 34°53' N and Longitude [ ]°[ ]' W.
388
389The 12th and 13th the Winds were more favourable and we made considerable progress on our passage.
390
391-- 5 --
392From the 14th to the 17th the winds hung to the Eastward we were in Latitude 34°55' N and Longitude [ ]°[ ]' W.
393
394The evening of the 18th Displayed to us a prospect most brillunt the Northeren lights shone with far more lusture than I ever observed them to do before. [5]
395
3961787. November
397The passage from Boston till we were Nearly as far to the Eastward as Madeira was upon the whole boisterous and uncomfortable but the later part of the month was more pleasant in the Latitude 32°37' N and Longitude 18°50' W by account we had prosperous winds on the Evening of the 31st We saw two or three Amphibious Animils of what species I could not discover.
398
399In the Morning of the 5 of November the Variation per Azmuth was 14°30' W in the Latitude 19°37' N and Longitude 18°24' W. This day I observed the Water to be coulered of a greenish hue; We still enjoyed fine moderate pleasant weather and favourable brezes on the 7th being in Latitude 16°15' N and Longitude 19°19' W by my account we bore away for the Island of St. Jago's 18 but being moderate flattering weather we saw no land untill early in the morning of the 9th when we discryed the Isle of may ahead we hauled our wind for English Roads 19 and at 11 AM came to anchor 11 f[atho]m [6] water with the best bower. We found rideing here two Ships four Briggs and a schuner in a little time after the Washington anchored within half a mile of us.
400
401We had found greatly to our satisfaction that both our vessells sailed exceeding well, and considering the Winds we had no doubt had a pressing sail been caried (for dewering the whole passage stearing sails were nevour sett) we might have made a verry quick passage.
402
403We put into the Isle of May for the purpus of procuring stock and this employment took us till the 16th in the morning to how much advantage this time was spent I leve to more experienced persons to Judge but in my humble opinion had the stock been procured at St. Jago's while other work was doing, all this time would have been saved.
404
405-- 6 --
406The Isle of May is in Latitude 15°9' N and Longitude 23°07' W. It is a small Island 20 and has but an inconvenient Roadsted the [7] fresh water is bad and not easy to be procured. The Island is chiefly composed of Rocks and Sand howevour there are an abundance of goats and many horned Cattle great numbers of Horses Asses and Mules of the two latter maney Vessell load for the West Indies It produses salt in great abundance 21 maney sail of Shiping load annuelly with this commodity.
407
408The Island is inhabited by a race of stout hearty blacks. (for I believe there is not a white inhabitant in the place) they are under good laws and regulations having a Governer of there own colour deputized by the Governer of St. Jago's. Upon the whole they are as contented a people as ever I saw. they were polight to the last degree when we were onshore inviting us to there Houses and showing every mark of Respect and hauspitality.
409
410There were dewring our stay at this Island purchaced a hundred and forty Goats two Bulls and a Cow three Hoggs and three Sheep. There were several Vessells arrived, English and [8] Americans bound to the South sea a whaling some sailed before us and others we left in the Roads When we lay in English Roads the extreem points of St. Jago's bore West south West half South and WNW½N.
411
412On the 16th in the Morning we weighed in company with the Washington and sailed for St. Jago's and at 11 AM Anchored in Porto Pray Bay. 22 our two anchors were lett go and the better part of two cables payed out thus mored the extreem points of the Bay bore South East by East half East and South West by West the fort bore N by W.
413
414It was not before the 18th in the Morning that Cap. Kendrick accompaneyed with Captain Gray wated on the Governer. Capt. K. requested the use of the Isle of Quales a small Island in the bay to land our stock this was Granted and the nezt [sic] day all hands were employed build a tent of two of our Corses and getting the stock onshore.
415
416The 19th We were employed breaking up the hold. A thurah
417
418-- 7 --
419overhall being intended by [9] Captain Kendrick. this employment lasted till the month was out and then the work was not very forward.
420
4211787. December
422Heavy indeed the work seemed to hang Capt. Kendrick worked in the hold; and exceeding hard? but as he supposed no person could do the work so well as himself every other person was allmost allways idle, The Month concluded as I have before observed with the business of stowing the hold still in agitation and Still much more to do.
423
424Much discord (from what cause they arose I will not pretend to say) subsisted in our Ship ever since our departure from Boston, and they now prevailed to a more violent degree. 23
425
426On the 7th Cap. Kendrick ordered Mr. Woodruff 24 to consider himself no longer as Chief Officer and confured the Situation on Mr. Jo[sep]h Ingraham. Mr. Woodruff was offered his choise either to Continue as a passenger onboard the Ship and attend to such business as C. Kendrick should pleas to asign to him [10] particularly Catoring or to leve the Vessell the former he rejected with the contempt it merited and accepted the latter. He requested the favour of being allowed to sleep onboard the Washington this was at first Granted but in the evening Mr. Howe 25 was sent onboard with some papers for the Gentleman to sign they were not wrote in a manour that suted him and he of course refused Eritated by a denial Captain Kendrick ordered me to Man the barge to go onboard the Washington and order Cap. Gray in His name to send Mr Woodruff and his bagage immediately onboard; When the Aged Gentleman came onboard he was ordered before the mast and his beding was refused him inconciquence of Which he was exposed to the inclemency of the Weather the whole night on deack, in the morning the seigning the papers was again proposed with which (however
427
428-- 8 --
429reluctantly) he complyed the boat was maned and the Gentleman with the proper witnesses were landed and the papers seigned. The maner Mr. Woodruff was to return to his native countrey was at this time [11] doubtfull howevour in a little time the Commander of a small Spanish Vessell polightly offered him a passage to Madeira, from whence a passage no doubt will easily be procured to America.
430
431This Gentleman was of known abillities as a navigator and greatly experienced as a Seaman he had Commanded several Ships out of London. he was an officer under the Great Captain James Cook on his last Voyage to the Pacifick Ocean.
432
433This Worthy Gentleman was my sincere Friend and the loss of him I regretted past expression.
434
435Our former work still continued and we filled the principle part of our water. About this time Several Dianish Indieamen Arrived and the Bulldog English Sloop of War, Cap. Fencraft.
436
437Doctor Roberts eledging a declin of health made application to Captain Kendrick for his discharge this was refused except he would pay his passage to this place, but this he was either unable or unwilling to do.
438
439On the Tenth Mr. Roberts requested [12] liberty to visate the Citty accordingly he went onshore. On the 11 a Sargent came onboard with a mesage from the Governer requesting he would send onshore two of his Officers. Capt. Kendrick thought proper accompaneyed with Mr. Ingraham to wate on his excellency himself.
440
441The Governer informed him that Mr. Roberts had entered a regular complaint of the inhuman treetment he had received, that imposable for him to bear it he could not proceed the Voyage and had clamed his protection.
442
443Captain Kendrick clamed him as a desserter, and requested that he might be delivered up on being informed it could not be granted he protested he would not return onboard without him and passing from the Governers house thro' the town he saw the Gentleman and drawing his swoard to the unarmed man attempted to forse him down to the boat. when two or three of the Soldiers saw this they came up to protect the Doctor. Captain Kendrick shithing his swoard prudently quited his prisoner and Came quiately onboard.
444
445It was now (I believe with good reason) [13] suspected to be the
446
447-- 9 --
448Governers intention to detain some person onshore till Mr. Robertses things were sent onshore. after this no person ever landed on the Island conciquently there was no more water filled tho' there was a grate difishancy in that article and far more expedition was used in geting reddy for sea. one of our Cables that had been down had got so many kinks in it occasioned by the Ships being moared too slack that it was allmost ruined rounding the kinks out and moring the Ship cost us a day.
449
450Little occured remarkable till the evening of the [20th] when all the Cattle and Goats were brought onboard and the next day 26 we unmored Ship and hove short on the other anchor when an Officer of a Dianish East Indeia Ship requested a Gentleman would come onboard for a fue moments this being complyed with it was found that Mr. Roberts was onboard the Daneish Ship he said he would willingly come onboard again provided he should not be flogg'd, 27 if this should be refused he begged he might have a shift of Linnen sent him these were boath denied we hove away, but the anchor draging we cut the [14] Cable leving both it and the Anchor we filled and Stood out of the bay in Company with the Washington and several Foreign Indeia Ships. The Length of time we were in this Port and the Isle of May, may surprise every one, it dose me particularly. That we should spend so much time doing so little work when the season of the Year was so fast advancing that would mak our passage Round Cape Horn impracticable sertain it is had the possition of the Water Casks been Altered which had been all stowed by Captain Kendrick orders on the ground tier in Boston and placed in the Hatchways immediately on our arrival and directly filled we migh[t] have left the Islands in six days and any other arrangment in the hold if any was requisite might have been executed far better at sea than in Porto Pray Bay. 28
451
452-- 10 --
453Porto Pray Bay is situated in Latitude 14° 54' N and Longitude 23° 26' W it is well sheltered from the Trade Winds And has good anchorage from 5 to 17 f[atho]m Water there is continualy a heavy swell setting into the Bay which makes it somewhat Disagreable the water is good and tho' there is continualy a [15] disagreable surf on the beach, watering a large Ship in 3 days would not be attended with great difficulty the place will aford many refreshments to a Ship on a long Voyage there are an abundance of Cattle goats and Hoggs, that may be procured at a very low rate. frute allso is very plenty. Orenges Limes Lemmons Musk and Water Melons Plantons Bananas etca.
454
455As allmost all vessells that tuch here are bound on long voyages they seldom stay here longer than is requisite to water, which is generaly 2 or 3 days but wither on such a voyage as this this port is preferable to Madeira or Tenerruf is matter of Doubt to me but that this place is equel to either of them at this season of the Year is obvious this Island is under the Government of Portugal as are all the Groop of Cape de Verd Islands.
456
457As we stood out of the bay an American Brigg anchored but we did not speek her.
458
459We now persued our Course to the southward with far more speed than we had done on the other passage but with far less than might be expected considering how late we were in our [16] season; I omitt in this place giving a minute account of our dayly track as they are in the tables for that purpus. And as to this Ocean it is too well known with reguard to its prevailing winds currants and the Courses off them for me to give any account of them except coated from others I shall say nothing on this subject.
460
461January 6
462We had on the 6 arrived in Lattd. [ ] S and Longitude 32° 13' W when we saw the Island Ferdinando de Noronha. 29 the Weather was clear and pleasant and the Wind moderate and commanding.
463
464Ferdinand de Noronha it is said, with what degree of truth I will not pretend to asurt is inhabited by a number of Portege convicts. Its appearance is very remarkable having one steep mountain or
465
466-- 11 --
467peek on its middle which may be seen at a very great distance. it is situated in 3° 56' South Latitude and Longitude 32° 20' W of Greenwich. It lies so near the Equator that there is but little probabillity of there being much refreshment found here espesialy as in every part it looked steep and Craggey.
468
469The weather was now pleasant with frequent showers of rain. on the 10 one of the Gentlemen observed [17] the head of the Mizon Mast was sprung a little above the rigging the next day shears wer erected and the Mizon Mast taken out. the Carpenters were immediately employed Fishing it the weather was highly favourable to there work but the mast was not finished untill the 15th when it was stepped and the Rigging got over head sett up and Sails again sett.
470
471Every event now was imeterial little work was done the people encouraged to dissobey the Command of there Offisers and continually intoxicated with Licure delivered them by Capt. K. orders 30
472
473On the [ ] Capt. Gray and Mr. Coolidge 31 came on board and dined with us in the afternoon Captain Kendrick severall times ordered the people aft as they did not immediately come I went to the main hatchway and ordered several of them up on deack among the rest was John Liscomb one of the Seamen I left the place but finding the person did not come as I directed I returned and repeeted the orders when he bluntly told me ("he would not come") Eritated by the disobedience of my orders I immediately jumped down the hatchway Coloured the Fellow and attempted to dragg him [18] up. howevour he so positively resisted that I found it imposable he used such scurilous language that at length I was provoaked to strike him a blow with my fist that instantly covoured him with bludd the noise betwixt deacks drew the other Offisers to see the occasion off it; Mr Ingraham the Chief Mate took this oppertunity I fere, to make the afare as unfavourable on my side as posable in the sight of Cap. Kendrick. this was by no meens an excuse
474
475-- 12 --
476for the outragou[s] manour in which he afterwards behaved it could be influenced by nothing else but a fear of ofending his people or perhaps as is moast probable his wish to elevate his Son to the situation of second Mate. 32
477
478be that as it may he no sooner saw me than with Language too horrid to be repeeted he ordered me off the Quarter deack and had the amazing assurance even to strick me several times untill prevented by my holding him (A liberty which perhaps he dare not have taken had he been on equal ground and not been in the Ship he commanded) Nay he protested with horrid oaths that If ever he saw me on the Quater deack again he would blow my brains out with a pistol and Charged his people in that Case to knock me down with a [19] handspuk. 33 He refused me the use of my stateroom and it was immediately occupied by Mr. Howe, the Capt[ain]s Clerk.
479
480I was fully convinsed that so frequent as the Quarrells had been between C. Kendrick and his Offisers that I should not be the only person exempt and I found it a mark of the sound penetration of my Friend Mr. Woodruff who told me it was his opinion the brutall and unofficerlike behaviour of the Capt. would not [extend] only to him but to every other person in the Ship.
481
482I now cheared myself with hopes that in a few days we should fall in with European or American Whalemen in whose Vesells I might procure a passage back I directly Whrote to Kendrick to obtain my discharge which he by a vurbal message granted and informed me I should have it the first vesell I saw -- with ancious dilligence I continualy looked out for a much wished for vesell but to my Great mortification saw none I had still great hopes of seeing some Vessel at falkland Islands.
483
484The North East wind which is a trade all along the Coast Br[azil] and Patigonia and is generaly observed to blow the stronger the Nearer to the shoar huried us along very hastily and had it not [20] been for boath our topsail yards being down for a co[n]siderable time and no spare one got up a good passage might have been made
485
486-- 13 --
487we struck sounding many times on the Coast the situation and depth of water are mentioned in the tables of the Ships track.
488
489On the [ ] we saw Cape Blanco bearing Distant about [ ] Leagues this Promontery which is situated on the east Coast of Patigonia Lay in Latt 46° 50' South and Longitude 72° 7' West, and bears no very remarkable appearance this Cape is a very proper place for aney Ship to make bound through the Streights of Magelen or La Mere or to Falkland Islands port Desur 34 is a good harbour situated not many leagues to the southward of it.
490
491A vary particular account of it may bee seen in Hauksworths Collection with a map of Falkland Islands which dose the Greatest honour to the Serv[eyo]r. 35
492
493We had fresh gales and boisterous Weather all the passage to Falkland Islands 36 on the [ ] at [ ] AM we made them and immediately hove round and Stood to the southward at 8 AM we bore round Jasons Islands 37 the Northwardmoast of which is in Lattd. 51° 04' S this is the Northeren extreem of Falkland Island and derives there Name from the Jason Frigate we were abrest of these at Meridion when I Obs[erve]d in Lattd. [ ] South [21]
494
495We had a prosperous Gale at [ ] when we passed the Suger lofe to the southward of us and green Keas and had then brought the ship into a range with Sedge Island and Byrons Sound 38 when we had the enterence of port Egmont 39 fare in view but Captain Kendrick being totaly Ignorent of the place the Ship was kept too far to
496
497-- 14 --
498the Southward 40 and we entered Bretts harb[o]r 41 and stood a considerable Distance up with a fowl bottom grown over with Kelp which flowted on the surfis of the water in 12 and 14 fath[o]m we anchor in [ ] fath[o]ms water, rockey ground abrest an excellant streem of water the Washington soon anchore[d] cloas under our stern Capt. Kendrick Capt Gray and another of the Officers went onshore the same evening and shott a great Number of Geese.
499
500Early the next morning Capt. Kendrick sent for me. I attended him and found him alone he requested me to sett down he with a great deel of cander acknoledged his rashness but told me as I was so urgant for a discharge he would have given it. notwithstanding he remarked the loss of an officer to him would be great. I informed him that with regard to his rashness I should immediately forgett it as a Gentlemanlike satisfaction was given and the sooner the better this hint the Gentleman either coold or woold not take [22] I then requested that I might not be continued any longer onboard the Ship but go onboard the Sloop for reduced as it was from second Officer of the Ship to secon[d] of the Sloop I was fully convinced that I should enjoy myself much better and Live far happier have a greater oppertunity of seeing the Coast on which we were to persue discoveries and Commerse with the Natives and by those meens impruve myself in Knoledge which it would be imposable to attain with such a man as Cap. K. whose naturel timidity of runing in with the land would fully prevent the gaining Knoledge which can be attained by no other meens than pursevearing in with the Land.
501
502Cap. Kendrick had many times expressed the doubts in his mind wether he would proceed round Cape Horn or winter on this side the Continent. He had no sooner arrived on this port and slightly examined it than he publickly declared it to be his intention to stay the Winter in this harbour Every Offiser immedeately expressed there disgust at the Very Idea, and for my part I informed him that
503
504-- 15 --
505was I in his case the Commander of the Ship, after spending so much time in the Cape de Verds and making such long passages I would go round the Cape or loos the Vessells in the attempt or at least meet with some obsticle that would be insermountable before I turned my back on pretended daingers, Captain Gray urged moast strongly the danger [23] of staying on this side the Continent in the first place there was not one stick of wood to be procured in the whole Island and that was an article which we should soon have wanted and as the Winter here would in all probabillity be long and Coald, we should be exposed to far more hardships than could possabley attend a long passage round the Cape to which he added if he was posatively deturmined not to make the Attempt he himself would try it in the Sloop and had not the least doubt of succeeding provided Capt. Kendrick would allow him.
506
507Urged by this he said he was not positively determined to try the passage or stay on this side the Continent. however no expedition was used on the Nesecery operations of watering etca. and much more time was spent in it than might have been expected.
508
509Bretts Harbour is formed by Saunderses Island which surrounds it on every side Except a small space at its enterence it is situated in Latitude 51° 25' South and 65° 36' W Longitude the water is good and easey to be procured the Harbour tho' good is far inferior to Port Egmont. there are maney small rivuletts that desend in delightfull rills on every part of the North side of the Harbour so that lett a vessell anchor in any part water is handdy but the bottom being rockey and grown over with Kelp at once [24] Your Anchors are so cloged that they will not hold well and Your Cables chafed these things we found by experience the Gusts of wind frequently coming down with great impetuosity and Caused us to drag our Anchors several times.
510
511A few days before our departure accompaneyed by Messrs. Howe and Treat 42 I walked over to port Egmont in firm hopes of finding some Ship there in which I might procure a passage to Europe, for tho' the Behavior of C. K. and every other person onboar[d] was
512
513-- 16 --
514exceedingly good yett I most ardently wished to leve them to there own Course and persue Another.
515
516Our walk there was not unpleasant the Countrey on which we walked there was not a single shrubb to interupt the Vue; as the grass 43 was high we were not very expeditious we arrived at the place the Garrison 44 s[t]ood early in the afternoon here are standing a number of the sides of turf houses and two or 3 bult of stone but have no roofs. there is a small stone pear or dock bult for the reseption of boats, the watering place is more convenient than I could have immagined, There is a damm which prevents the fresh from falling into the salt water untill it has arose to a sertain highth which will prevent the salt water when it is at the highest from communicating from each other [25] at high water your casks may be filled in the boat and at low water there is an excellant beach to roul them upon, There are many inclousurs where there has been gardens indeed there are an abundance of beautyfull Garden flowers still growing spontainiously.
517
518There is Celery horse reddish and garden sorrell in great abundance there is allso growing wild chickweed hoggweed and ground Mullis in Great abundance with several other sorts of excellant greens which would prove strong antiscerbutics to aney vessell that may tuch here at aney future time bound on long voyages. wild Cellery and Sorrell grows in every part in great abundance.
519
520Port Egmont is formed by one of the principle of the Falkland Islands on the East on the NE by a great Number of small Islands on the North by Keppells Island and on the other parts by Saunderses Island and a Number of small Islands that lay between it and Byrons Sound The watering place abrest of which the[re] appears to be the best anchorage is on Saunderses Island no more than a mile from the enterence of the Harbour. this port is by all meens prefferable to Bretts har[bou]r for with aney wind you may geet out which is not the case with Bretts harbour for here nothing but an easterly wind
521
522-- 17 --
523will serve here are a great number of seals and sea Lyons which would Abundantly sepply a ship with oil for her Lamps they are so plenty at [26] some seasons of the Year at these Island that several vessels have loaded with there oil a fresh stock of poa[l]tery may allso here be procured for the geese are in such abundance and so tame that a flock of perhaps 20 or 30 will stand untill you will load and fier at them several times.
524
525Of the Geese there are several sorts. One sort is much like those that are tame in Europe others which haunt the highlands are something like the wild geese of America and at a distance at first we took them for Turkies another sort pertake much of the muscovy Duck tho' larger there are other sorts which I cannot describe. of these we Caught 40 unhurt of one flock, Of geese were killed meney hundred, and Ducks which exactly resemble the tame ducks of America and England, great numbers were shott, and were excellant food. but never caught one of them alive.
526
527There are plenty of snipes and pluvers and very larg[e] Robins, hauks shags Gulls etca. and inumerable penguins; these burds live in society in vastly great hurds in holes under ground or on the sides of turf hills We saw the track of cloven footed Animills but as we nevour saw aney of them we could not deturmin of what species they were. 45
528
529But to return to our expedition, after we had viewed the ruins of the once Colinised Town 46 I shott a goose with which we intended to regail ourselvs but prefering ducks I found not the least difficulty [27] in shuteing a brace making a fier we broiled them with some rashers of Pork which with bread and Cheas a bottle of rum etca. which we had brought for the purppus we made an excessive hearty meal to which we added a good salit and a long voyage proved the best seasoning it could be dressed with.
530
531After our well relished repast, I proposed staying all night, for the object of my serch was still doubtfull for we had not examined the Harbour so particularly, but that there might have been vessells
532
533-- 18 --
534there unobserved by any of us, this was an object that did not interest the other Gentlemen so much as it did Myself they were therefore for returning to the ship I did not posatively refuse them and went to the top of the hill leading to Bretts Harbour when I missed my baonett which I had used in broiling the ducks. this determined me to stay all night so returning alone to our dining place I serched for it a co[n]siderable time but not finding it I immagined I must have droped it as I walked up the hill -- to which I returned and pitched upon a rockey cavron for my Nights Lodgings I first filled it half full of dry Grass then rouled a couple of balls down my Muskett and Composed myself to sleep very quiately. Early in the [28] morning I salied forth and took a compleet view of every part of the Harbour nor did I return untill near three oclock in the Afternoon; when I saw a boat coming onshore and soon As I was plainly seen by them they displayed the union Jack and the Columbia discharged three Great Guns this amazed me much but I was soon relieved for Mr. Cordis 47 the thurd Officer who was in the boat informed me Capt. Kendrick consurned at my stay had sett out with the Barge and her Crue accompaneyed by Mr. Howe to port Egmont in surch of me and had left orders that If I should be seen coming to fier two or three Guns to inform him of my return.
535
536On the 28th all our water being compleet and redy for sea I received orders from Captain Kendrick to take charge onboard the Washington as second mate these orders I immediately complyed with the wind being fare We directly got under way and with a moderate breze s[t]ood out of the Harbour in Company with the Columbia the wind was at NE and a flud tide. Before dark we were pretty well clear of the Land at 12 in night we bore away keeping her SSW.
537
5381788. March
539At this advanced season of the Year we were lanching forward in a sloop scarsely 90 tuns [29] to make a passage at the same season of the Year when Lord Anson in one of the finest ships in the British Navy mett with allmost insermountable diffi[c]ulties, the account of his Voyage was truely discouraging 48 However for
540
541-- 19 --
542a considerable time we mett with no very heavy gales but the sea generaly ran very cross and to a mountaineous highth. on Monday March 3d I was in Latitude 53° 19' S and Longitude 65° 40' W we found about this time a Currant setting to the Northward and Eastward from every apearance on the 4th at Midnight we were abrest of Staton Land it was very flawey and a strong tide with a large sea runing very iregularly
543
544On the 5 we had a fine run to the southward with a strong westwardly gale and a long heavy swell from the same quarter. we saw this day a fish about the size of an Albacore several land birds Pintardo birds 49 Albatroses mother Caries chickings 50 and a fue other birds whose names I am unacquainted with we now found the wind allmost continualy from the Westward. In the Lattd. 58° S we saw a small Whale and a great maney penguins. on Sunday 9th being in Latitude 59° 30' and Longitude 63° 57' W for some hours we had the Wind violent from the SE accompaneyed with frost and so high a sea that our vessell was allmost Continualy under water and our people wett and uncomfortable the change was sudon and heavy but of short duration when it moderated [30] it drew round to the southward from thence to West and then blew a moderate Breze in the Longd. 64° W we had 22 East Variation As we advanced to the southward we hourly found the weather more disagreable,
545
546Wednesday 12th.
547
548
549
550in the Latitude 60° S we found frequent Foggs and at the same time a savere and disagreable Cold these damps and the sprays continualy flying over us rendered our duty prodidious hard and fatiguing for ever since our leving Bretts Harbour the cloths of all our people has been wett. Monday 17th. far more comfortable indeed must there situation be who are onboard the Ship whose sides are so high that a man is navour wett on her deacks the winds ever since our coming into lattd. to the southward of Cape Horn the wind has been from WNW to WSW. these Winds have allowed us to gain but little Westing and at this time our prospect of wethering the Cape is very unfavourable we have
551
552-- 20 --
553seen several Large Islands of ice and the Weather excessive coald.
554
555Wednesday 19th.
556
557
558
559In latitude 62°29' S and Longitude 73°51' W the winds and weather became more favourable to gaining our passage the Weather was very chaingable from Clear and pleasant to snow hail Rain and sleet and from that to clear in the space of half an hour -- we have the frost intensely hard at sertain times and sudonly again a thaw, these chainges with the wettness of the Vessell would have been insermountable to aney but a Crue of people whose Constitutions were strong and Vigerous for all there beds and Cloaths to a man [31] were long since drenched with salt water and no opertunity to dry them. 1788. March. Saturday 22d. on Saty. 22nd by Acct. I was in Longitude 82°59' W and by Observation in Latitude 61°49' W. this situation with a full determination to persevere seemed to insure us our passage.
560
561April 1
562Tuesday. From this time untill the 1 of April we experienced the Greatest veriety of weather and by taking the Advantage of every favourable slant of wind we had arived by account in Latitd. 57°57' South and Longitude 92°40' West when between the hours of 4 and 5 in the Morning the Wind sudenly changed from the Northwest to the Southward the Columbia wore Ship and in following her example the Morning being dark we unfortunately losst sight of her 51 the wind increesed immoderately fast and thretened what sudenly followed A Violent Gale. the Wind b[l]ew heavy a perfect hericain accompaneyed with rain hail snow and Sleet with an intence frost the sea imediately [rose] to an immoderate highth and frequently thretened us with instant distruction for had the smallest of these Huge overgrone seas struck us it would infaliably have put a period to our existance and they broke with the greatest agit[at]ed rage a very small distance from us it was most fortunate sircomstance that the wind was fare and our Sloop scuded exceeding well and sufered no other damage from the sea than having her Larbord [32] Quarter boards stove in April 2. Wednesday. on the second it was a little more moderate and hauled more from the westward, but unfortunately for us at 4 AM We Caried away our Jibb stay in a suden squall and with the Greatest difficulty we saved
563
564-- 21 --
565the Sail all the next day we lay too. It was now we first meterialy felt how greatly our hardships had debiliated all the Crue for there was not one sailor onboard who was able to go aloft and take down the Old Jibb Stay or fitt a new one and of necesity this duty fell on Mr. Coolidge and myself 52 the wind blew heavy and it haled with great violence.
566
567Thursday 3.
568
569
570
571But on the 3d we employed ourselvs guting a temporary stay aloft and late in the day we were in a condition to make sail we were now in Latitude 56°5' South and Longitude 93°32' West.
572
573Saturday 12th.
574
575
576
577From the 3d to the 12th nothing remarkable occured for it was one continued tempest interspersed with short lulls and Violent Squalls to which we caried an incredable press of Sail and pushed with the most urgint diligence.
578
579When a Gale arose greatly sirpassing any thing I before had aney Idea of we hove too with the wind NNW with her head to the Westward expecting some big deluge would soon be our destruction but fortunately none did us the smallest damage Sunday 13. on the 13th still violent Gales at 4 PM in wearing Ship we splitt the main sail very badd and to our [33] Misfortune we had but one more onboard and that much worn. This we directly bent and the wind soon abating we made sail the tempest now took leve of us and more temperate weather welcomed us into Pacifick Ocean April. Monday 14. the 14th was sufishantly moderate for all hands to be employed on deack mending the Main sail We were now advanced as far to the Northward as 47°44' S and Longitude 95°31' W by Account and began to experience that beautifull serenity this Ocean is selebrated for thus having been 40 days from Falkland Islands untill we were to the Northward of the west enterence of the straits of Magellan the bounds that have been stipulated by most navigators to this extencive Cape. We viewed the remainder of our passage to the Coast of America with indifference the worst part now being over. From the 14th we advanced nimbley to the Northward with favourable Brezes and fine weather keep[in]g nearly in the same parallel of Longitude Thursday 17th. on the 17th there were vast numbers of porpuses playing round the Ship but had not the good fortune tho' we struck several to get one [34] onboard on
580
581-- 22 --
582the 19th we saw great numbers of flying fish the first we had seen since our arrival in these seas Monday 21. on the 21st I saw a larg albacore the water was filled with small sun fish and portugee men of war. 53
583
584It was Captain Grays intention to tuch Masafuero 54 and If he conveniently could intended wood and water and perhaps fall in with the Columbia. Tuesday 22. on the 22nd being in the Latitude of Masafuero we bore away East to make it the winds were light but it was only a prelude to a gale for the Later part of the day it blew heavy from the Northward and a large sea from the same quarter on the 24 at meridion we were by Dead Reconing in Latit. 33°48' S and Longitude 87°02' W when at 1 OClock in the Afternoon we saw the Island of Masafuero bearing E b N distant 5 or 6 Leagues the Land made in a high Peek far above the Clouds which were thick and kept the lower part in obscurity at 4 PM the North point bore ENE distant 4 or 5 miles we wore ship and hove too with her head off shore to wate for the insueing day it [35] was exceeding moderate all night with the wind from the southward and in the Morning we again stood in shore at 10 AM we hoisted the long boat out and Captain Gray sent her under the Command of Mr. Coolidge in serch of a convenient landing place where we might precure wood and water.
585
586It had blown for some day very heavy from the Northward this rise so large a swell and heavy a surf that rendered landing daingerous when Mr. Coolidge returned with this unfavourable account Capt. Gray immediatly conclooded on departing without making aney further tryal. 55
587
588Masafuero is situated in Latitude 33°46' South and Longitude 80°36' West and about 30 leagues due west of the Island of Juan Fernandies. it is high and may be seen upw[ar]ds of 20 Leagues in tolerable clear weather.
589
590-- 23 --
591There are a great maney streems of water continualy runing from its hills and there is much wood growing on there Brows but [36] the landing at the most commodious places is excesive daingerous and a dependance on this place for either wood or water will be highly imprudent in any navigator that may here after follow our track, the former of these articles no vessell from the American states bound to its North West Coast should have occasion for untill her arrival at her place of destination, and a good stock of water taken in at Falkland Islands or in the s[t]raits La Mere will serve for the remainder of the passage but as every prudent person would wish to fill there water at every oppertunity in there power, I think Juan Fernandies is a very proper place, this Island is inhabited by about 500 Spaniard and Chilians most of them convicts, 56 who cultivate it and bring to perfection allmost all the tropical and European fruts and grane they [have] Cattle hoggs Horses and Goats in incredable numbers, and indeed every thing else in great abundance that would prove the strongest antisc[o]rbutic and the helth and Viger of your people again (If aney were declining) be restored at this Island a most ample field opens for a generous mind to show its [37] benevolence to the maritime world in general and to a numerous rase of human beings by taking in a few Cattle goats and horses and cariung them to the Sandwich Islands for the passage would not be long and in a moderate Climate Where its temperate climate and fertile soil together with the attentive care of its Inhabitance would insure a spedy increse, and in fue Years Its verdent launs be strown with hurds and flocks that might give the most ample suplies to fueture adventurers in this very remote Clime, and much increse the fellisity of these now happy people.
592
593Every suply that is nesecery may be taken off in your boats without bringing the Ship to an anchor and water is as easey to be procured at Cumberland Bay 57 as aney place in this Ocean this Island was formerly visated by the Buckanears of England and afterwards by
594
595-- 24 --
596Lord Anson 58 but since there has been inhabitance here it has been visated by no English Ship for the turms for English and Spaniards are on with each other cause them to [38] keep there expedition more secret Captain Cartrit indeed passed this bay within sight of the fort but showed no Coulers 59 these precautions for secrecy need not be taken by the Americans for the Spaniards ever distinguish them by the most pointed respect. Captain Cartrit passed this Island and ran to Masafuero where with incredable labour and hazard he took off a small suply of Water and wood, we ourselvs might have watered had we had graplines and worps but these we were destitute of. 60
597
598There were abundance of Goats 61 grazing on the brows of the presapises, and if we could have landed maney of them might have been shott with ease. At this place the fir Ceal is in greater abundance than at any place I ever saw 62 and it abound with excellant fish.
599
600I had from our first departure from Boston allways supposed and given it as my opinion that to make the Sandwich Islands in our way from Cape Horn to the Northwest would be the most expeditious track for these Reasons, that by keeping the ship large in the trades through the Ocean we might go at a far [39] greater rate and by those means avoid geting into the Indraft of wind that prevails to a vast distance from the Continent and by keeping to the westward carey a fresh breze all the way to the Northward, but as Capt. Gray had orders to tuch at Masafuero and if posable to procure wood and water, and if much necessitated for them to go to Juan Fernandies but to be very carefull not to put himself into the power of the Spaniards, And it was our opinions that no supplies in so week and
601
602-- 25 --
603ill armed a vessell as ours could be procured without puting ourselvs intierly in there power and with Care we had suffisiant to last us up to the Coast of New Albions it was determined to proceed to the Northward immediately and as St. Felix and Ambrose Isles were but little known and had been saught for by Captain Cartrit without success thither we now directed our resurches. 63 I am not posative weather we have seen the Island Juan Fernandies or not the distance was so great but on the [40] twenty sixth there was strong appearances of Land in that quarter.
604
605Tuesday 29.
606
607
608
609On the 29 we went to an allowance of water two quarts per Man a day we had moderate brezes and pleasant weather for maney days during which time all hands were continualy Employed in nesecery ships duties the Colker employed colking the upperwork which now had become open and making swivell stocks, we saw daily numbers of dolphin and flying fish grampuses sea Lyons ceals Whales and porpuses.
610
611May. Saturday 3d
612On the 3d of May at 10 AM we saw Ambrose Isle bearing N b W distant Near 20 Leagues we immediately packed all the sail we could in with the Island to which we were not near enough to send the boat to untill the 5th when the longboat was hoisted out and sent onshore with an officer to mak[e] such discoveries as might be of utility duering the boats abbsence we sailed nearly round the Island which appears on all sides steep and Craggey in the banks there are ridges of various coulers runing parrallel to the sea particularly red [41] which is very brigh[t] its appearance caries not an unpleasing efect on the top there is a tolerable level spott Cloathed with woods and verdure but not one shrub to be seen in any other part of the Island that was accessable.
613
614When our boat returned they informed us they found tolerable good Landing on lee side of the Island that they had pulled allmost all round it but had not seen the least appearance of Fresh water, when they landed with hopes of Climing to its top that they found the rocks so very rotten that crags of emence weight would every instant
615
616-- 26 --
617give way under ther feet and put them offten in infinate dainger. the boats crew duering there stay onshore killed a vast number off ceals and sea lyons which were incredably numerous, 64 they allso cought a considerable number of fish which proved an ample refreshment, from the ceals we Extracted a large quantity of oil and Dryed there skins. St. Felix Island perhaps might have aforded much better Refreshments to [42] a vessell on a long voyage for it bears a far more hauspitable appearance than Ambrose Isle and I have been credably informed by some Spanish officers that this Island is inhabited by the natives of that countrey 65 but Captain Gray alltho' it would have been but a few hours sail out of our way thought it not worthey his attention. I must confess I was very sorry for this for it might have afforded some information to myself and friend that would have been of utillity this Island is in Latitude 26°30' S and Longitude 79°7' West of Greenwich, the Variation was 11°54' East. St. Felix bears [ ] S 63 W from Ambrose Isle distant About 10 Leagues.
618
619Tuesday 6th.
620
621
622
623On the 6th we again persued on our course with all posable dispatch taking the wind at SE a gentle and pleasant breze increesing moderately to a fresh trade from SE to ESE untill the 22nd when the wind hauled to the Northward of East. Thursday 22nd. we were now in 29 minutes South [43] Latitude and 104°43' West Longitude attended with commanding brezes frequently seeing turtle which however we tried not after as we had good winds.
624
625We had passed between the Galapago or Inchanted Islands without seeing any of them they are inhabited by the Spaniards 66 in Latitude 1°24' N the Variation was 3°3' East. On the 24th the winds were variable Monday 25th. on the 25th the weather was cloudy attended with heavey falls of rain of which we caught several
626
627-- 27 --
628Hogsheads on the 27th we had the wind to the Southward and the ensueing day Variable and in lattd. by D[ead] R[eckoning] 10°30' North and 109°57' West still catching large quantities of rain water to which we were indebted for preservation on our remainding part of our passage.
629
630Our people had been Employed for a long time before this making rounding for our Cables and every other nesecary [44] prepairation were making that lay in our power for the better equipment of our vessell by rounding and worming our cables puddinging our anchors and stocking the spare ones.
631
632Friday 30.
633
634
635
636May the 30th we had thunder and lightening the first we had seen since our arrival in this Ocean this day we cought 12 Turtle, 14 Dolplin and great Number of tricker fish we were this day in Lattd. by two Altitudes of the Son of 12°12' North and Longitude 110°41' West and a strong Currant setting to the Southward 67 the winds were gener[a]ly light and flattering from the North to West.
637
638June. Tuesday 3rd
639June the 3d we were in latitude 12°38' N and Longitude 113°34' West 2°10' East Variation we continued to have no alteration of winds alltho' the weather grew extreemly pleasant. On the 4th we cought maney turtle which by the by were not very delicate eating which we continued to do till the 19 when we were in Latitude 12°32' N and Longitude 128°41' W having had for 21 days a continued light [45] Northwardly wind and a rappid currant setting to the Southward. having for the whole of that time gained but 20 Miles to the Northward, this great Check on our passage was I am well convinced occasioned from our being to much to the Eastward where the flattering winds bordered on the indraught and were I ever to have the conducting a vessell through this Ocean I would by all means go far to the Westward of our track. 68
640
641Monday 23d.
642
643
644
645The winds continued far to the Northward till the 23d when we took the regular North East Trade which prevails in
646
647-- 28 --
648this part of the Ocean. we were at this time in Latitude 14° 13' North and Longitude 131° 29' West. A Great plenty of Dolphin and flying fish Continualy round us.
649
650July. Saturday 19
651Untill the 19th of July we had the North East Trade we had it variable and moderate and on the 21st being in Latitude 26° 31' N and Longd. 141° 47' West we took the [46] wind at SE we had 9° 18' E Variation.
652
653Wednesday 23.
654
655
656
657Favourable gails and pleasant weather now constantly attended us, saw several Whales, Saturday 26. on the 26th of July it became calm and variable we were in Latitude 40° 40' N and Longitude 138° 11' West by the mean of several Azmith 12° 56' E variation Monday 28. the 28th the wind was at all points of the Cumpass the Variation per Equell Altitudes 13° 41' Tuesday 29. the 29 the wind increased fresh at W b N we stearing in NE b E by Cumpass Thursday the 31 an amazing plenty of Burds were flying about which was the more remarkable as it was but now and then we saw a Mother Caries chicking and once in a while a shearwater since our leaving Ambrose Isle before now fish too had been total straingers ever since our passing the 13th degree of Latitude began to play in considerable plenty we saw too several whales of a considerable size maney ceals Were playing round us a thick haze to was observed to hang over the Eastern Quarter I observed in Latitude 41° 30' N.
658
659August 1
660The first of august we had strong brezes [47] and blustering weather this day the water was coulered of a greenish hue and we passed a great deel of kelp of a remarkable size the Clouds had strong appearances of our nigh aproach to the American Continent this day I Observed in Latitude 41° 16' N and in Longitude [ ] West.
661
662Saturday 2d.
663
664
665
666On the second at 10 AM to our inexpressable joy we saw the Coast of New Albion 69 rainging from NNE to SSE dist[ant] about 7 Leagues, we tried for soundings in a hundred fathems without finding bottom we sett a pressing sail in With the Land. I observed in Latt.41° 28' N. Sunday the 23 we struck soundings in 50 fathem water over a bottom of fine black sand at this
667
668-- 29 --
669time we were 6 Leagues distant from the Continent at meridian I observed in Lattd. 41° 38' N and Longitude 121° 29' W. 70
670
671On
672
673monday the 4th
674
675
676
677we had fresh brezes and pleasant Cariing a press of sail in with the land [48] at 5 PM the breze grew light and weather foggy we sounded in 45 f[atho]m water over a bottom of black mud wore Ship and stood to the westward dewering the first part of the night with a light breze at 2 PM tacked and stood to the Eastward with a fresh breze at 8 AM in 15 f[atho]m water distant from the shore about 2 miles and a half it died away calm we were at this time within a quarter of a mile of a ledge of rocks in shore of us we were neceseated to Anchor but it was scarce to the ground when it began to blow a stiff Breze at North veared away ½ a Cable and it ridd her at this time we discovered a canoe with ten natives of the Countrey paddling towards us on there nigh aproach they made very expressive seigns of friendship.
678
679These were the first inhabitance we had seen here I must add that a regular account of People manners and customs etca. of this vast coast is a task equell to the skill of an able Historian and what I am totaly inadequate to however as there are some few remarkable occurences I mention them without rule or form.
680
681These people were in a canoe of a most singular shape it was hued from a tree of vast bulk it was very wide and caried its bredth nearly equell fore and aft its head and stern were but little different boath ending abruptly as flat as a board they rose some inches above the side of the boat in an arch which was neatly worked over with straw of various coulers the boat tho' [49] of the most clumsey shape in the world yet so well was it finished that it looked very pasable there paddles were very rough wrought of ash wood. They were cloathed chiefly in deerskins and they were ornemented with beads of Europan manufactor.
682
683I am apt to think they have sometimes intercorse with the Spaniards at Monteray which is but three or four degrees to the Southward of them 71 they smoak tobacco out of a small wooden tube
684
685-- 30 --
686about the size of Childs wistle. they had some sweet sented Herbs. the countrey from whence these people came to me appeared the most pleasant I had ever seen the men in the Boat appeared to be well limed people about the middle size there bodies were punctuated in maney forms in all parts.
687
688Capt. Gray made them several preasants but our attent[i]on was called another way the wind by this time b[l]ew a gale. we hove up and stood off shore upon a wind to the westward.
689
690Tuesday 5th.
691
692
693
694The 5th was accompaneyed with no remarkable occurence we coasted the shore along but saw no place where there was shelter even for a boat this Countrey must be thickly inhabited by the maney fiers we saw in the night and Culloms of smoak we would see in the Day time but I think they can derive but little of there subsistance from the sea but to compenciate for this the [50] land was beautyfully divercified with forists and green verdent launs which must give shelter and forage to vast numbers of wild beasts most probable most of the natives on this part of the Coast live on hunting for they most of them live in land this is not the case to the Northward for the face of the Countrey is widly different I was in Latd. 42° 3' N the Variation 13° 50' E. 72
695
696Wednesday 6th.
697
698
699
700On the 6 favourable brezes and pleasant in the morning about 8 Oclock we were abrest a cove where tolerable good shelter from a Northwardly wind may be had it is formed by a small bay to the Northward and a little Island to the Southward here wood and water may be procured but what sort of anchorage remains unknown the people were very ancious to come onboard they Paddled after us an amazing distance with great alacrity waving somthing I supose skins but we had at this time a good wind and pleas[an]t weather and it was judged best to seek a harbour while they continued we ran along shore with a Cloud of sail passing within a Quarter of a Mile of a Bould sanday shore in 5 and 6 f[atho]m water above the beach appeared a delightfull Countrey thickly inhabited and Cloathed with woods and verdure with maney Charming streems of water gushing from the vallies most of the inhabitance as we passed there scatered houses fled into the woods while others ran along shore with great swiftness keeping [51] abrest
701
702-- 31 --
703of us maney miles. Cape Mendocin 73 bore North distant about 5 Leagues. Thursday 7th. we now ran for a place that looked like an inlett this place was in a large deep bay to the southward and Eastward of Cape Mendocin having ran in within about a Mile of a small Island we hove the Jolley Boat out and sent her to sound the Channel between the Island and Main and explore the Harbour if aney she soon made a signal that there was plenty of water within the Island we then followed her but soon discovered what we supposed to be an inlett to be no other than two hills seperated by a deep valey. we wore ship within ½ a Mile of the Land and found no bottom with a long scope of Line we now took the boat in and stood out on the other side the Island which could be compared to nothing elce but a hive with the beeas sworming the birds were so numerous. they were of maney speces but most of them Pelicons at 4 PM foggy at 6 Cape Mindocin bore NNE distant about 6 or 7 Leagues a long and very daingerous Reef of Rocks ran out 6 Leagues westward of this promontory we stood of a proper distance to give this Ledge a proper berth, and then stood to the North[war]d for the Land obs[erve]d in Latitude 43° 20' No.
704
705There is a very deep bay to the Northward of the [52] Cape in which probably there may be some deep Sound and rivers but in the night we were imperceptabley drifted by a current from the Eastward far from the Shore this prevented us from exploreing this part of the Coast a knoledge of this Situation might be asential for if there should bee a harbour here no doubt there would be great numbers of sea otter skins its situation is by no meens too far to the Southward for these animels to exist in abundance of [sic] the Spanish misionares send anualy several thousand skins that are collected on the Coast of California to China by the way of Manilla. 74
706
707-- 32 --
708About ten or eleven leagues to the Northward of the Cape we hoisted our boat out to more minutely examin the Coast while we sailed in the Sloop within a mile of the shore at ½ past 12 the 9th we passed a bared inlett where tho' there appeared not to be suffisent water for our vessell yett I am of opinion it is the enterence of a very large river where great commershal advantages might be reeped in a small vessell about 18 or 20 Tuns this harbour is in Latd. 44° 20' No. and Longd. 122° 0' W from Greenwich. 75 The long boat in the evening returned alongside they had seen nothing remarkable except vast numbers of the natives they appeared to be a very hostile and warlike people they ran along shore waving white skins these are the skins of moose Deer three or four thicknesses compleatly taned and not penetrable by arrows these are there war armour. 76 they would sometimes make fast there [53] bows and quivers of arrows to there spears of incredable length and shake them at us with an air of defyence every jesture they accompaneyed with hideous shouting the Coast trented [sic] by the Compass N b W at 8 PM we hove too with our head to the northward at 2 wore ship and stood in shore at 4 AM Made sail along shore at 11 AM there came alongside two Indions in a small Canoe very differently formed from those we had seen to the Southward it was sharp at the head and stern and Extreemly well bult to paddle fast 77 they came very cautiously towards us nor would they come within pistol shot untill one of them a very fine look[in]g fellow had delivered a long oration accompaneying it with actions and Jestures that would have graced a Europan oritor 78 the subject of his discorse
709
710-- 33 --
711was designed to inform us they had plenty of Fish and fresh water onshore at there habitations which they seemed to wish us to go and partake of we made them understand that skins was the articles we most wanted these as well as we could understand them they would bring the ensuing day we could proceve there Language was entierly different from those we had first fell in with to the southward. after viewing the vessell attentively some time they departed well pleased with some trifling preasants they had recieved the place these people came of from is in Latd. 45° 0' No. 79
712
713Sunday 10th.
714
715
716
717The first part of the tenth was pleasant but [54] the wind hauling to the Northward it came in foggey and disagreable weather insued the middle part calm at 4 PM wore ship and stood in with the land at 9 we hove the boat out and she went in surch of a landing place duering her absence there came along side two Indion Canoes the one containing two and the other 6 people among them were our yesterdays friends they brought with them several sea otter skins and one of the best peces I ever saw. 80 they were a smart sett of active fellows but like all others without one exception on this Coast are addicted to thefts and we allways found those who were the most mistrustfull were the most adicted to commit the offence. 81
718
719They were armed with bows and arrows they had allso spears but would part with none of them they had both Iron 82 and stone knives which they allways kept in there hands uplifted in readiness to strike we admited one of them onboard but he would not come
720
721-- 34 --
722without this weapen two or three of our visitors were much pitted with the small pox. 83
723
724They were dexterous in the manegement of there Canoes they paddled with great velosity and tho' there canoes were long would turn them in there length there paddles were neatly made of Ash they run down of an equel bredth to the ent the Corners are pointed and End arched up like a swallows tail they departed promusing to return again soon. I observed in [55] Latitude 45° 02' No.
725
726Monday 11th.
727
728
729
730The 11th was marked by no singular event we had light airs to the Northward and westward and frequently calm we had the small boat out and hoged the Ship the Coast we were abrest of looked pleasant I obs[erve]d in Latitude 44° 58' No. having made 5 miles Southing.
731
732Tuesday 12th.
733
734
735
736The 12th being pleasant weather at 3 PM we came to Anchor within half a mile of the shore hoisted the long boat and went to a small inlett where there was not suffishant water for the Sloop to enter we took of two loads of wood and then hove up and Came to sail with the wind favourable we saw while the boat was onshore 84 one of the Natives who were of on Sunday last, the place had been inhabited but was deserted no doubt as late as when they saw the boat coming onshore. Light br[e]zes to the Southward and drizling rain all the latter part.
737
738Wednesday the 13th
739
740
741
742there came alongside twelve Natives in a Canoe they had nothing to trafic but seemed enticed by curiosity off to view the vessell there Chief was the only person that was allowed to come onboard he observed every thing with great attention and was presented with a few preasants and departed well pleased with there entertainment at Noon I observed in Latitude 45° 56' 85 N about this time the wind hauled from the Northward with so rappid a current [56] from the same quarter that we could not make aney way to the Northward on the contorary we could
743
744-- 35 --
745not hold our own. Thursday 14th. Between the hours of 5 and 6 Last evening we passed a tolerable harbour but having a bar Where it broke pretty nigh all athort it looked as tho' we could with ease git into it this harbour was now 10 Leagues to leeward but in the afternoon it was determined to bear away and at 1 PM we lay her head to the Southward at 6 we hove too off and on and at 6 came too with the small bower in 7 f[atho]m water distant from the shore about 2 miles over a bottom of sand we now hoisted the boat out man'd and armed her and sent her to explore the Harbour and sound its enterence taking proper bearings and marks for sailing into it at 10 the boat returned with an account that the Harbour was tolerably Commodious and suffishent water for us in the proper Channel we immediately hove up with a commanding breze and went in without cuming into less than two fathom and a Quarter water we anchored half a mile distant from the shore in 3 f[atho]m in the Anchoring place I observed my Latd. to be 45° 27' N and Longd. 122° 19' W. 86 the Variation by Asmith was 14° 26' E[as]t in the afternoon it was pleasant with a moderate breze to the Northward. t'was with great persuasion late in the Afternoon that one of there small Canoes came alongside and received maney trivial preasants this soon entised maney others off and Each [57] Canoe brought with them large quantities of berries and Crabs ready boiled Friday 15th. these they liberaly handed onboard as preasants seemingly without an Idea of payment, and these were the most acceptable things they could have brought to most of our seamen who were in a very advanced state of the scurvey and was a means of a restoration of health to 3 or four of our Companey who would have found one months longer duration at sea fatal to them so advanced were they in this malignant distemper. 87
746
747Trafic on a very friendly footing being thus established before Evening we had purchased a number of Good Sea otter skins for knives axes adzes etca. but had we had Copper a pece two or three inches square would have been far more valuable to them, they would hand
748
749-- 36 --
750there skins onboard without scruple and take with satisfaction whatever was given in return; 88 this we very seldom found the case in any other part of the coast. the nesecery operations of wooding and watering were the pri[n]saple objects of our attention the watering place was situated at a very considerable distance from the Sloop and totaly out of the protection of her guns for this reason one turn of water was Judged suffishent to serve till some more safe place might be discovered at some other part of the Coast. [58] we took off several boat load of wood which was handey to the vessell and of a very good quality the natives while we were at work onshore behaved with great propriety frequently bringing us frute but they allways kept themselves armed and never ventured nigh us but with there knives in there hands uplifted reddy to strike, this we imputed to there being such total straingers to Europeans.
751
752Saturday 16.
753
754
755
756On the 16 we had pleasant weather with a moderate breze to the eastward at this time an amazing number of the natives were alongside with boiled and roasted crabbs for sale which our people purchaced for buttons etca. they had allso dryed salmon and buries in abundance.
757
758At noon we weighed and came to sail with a very moderate breze which soon died away to a purfect calm and the flud tide still setting strong swept us on a reef of rocks. the water was smooth as glass and the tide still flowing the vessell could receive no meterial Damage we run out our kedge with a small worp and hauled off the sea breze cuming in prevented our geeting out we veared ascope and moared with our two bowers.
759
760About this time the old Chief who came onboard of us on the 13 about 6 Leagues to the Northward he had a great number of the natives with him all armed and they had no skins with them tho' they were well [59] convinced it was them alone we wanted and he had promused to supply us with some however tho' he had not fullfilled his engagement he mett with a very polight reseption.
761
762Having nothing else to do but wate for the next days tide to depart, Earley in the Afternoon I accompaneyed Mr. Coolidge onshore in the long Boat to amuse ourselves in taking a walk while our
763
764-- 37 --
765boat was loaded with grass and shrubbs for our stock we took all the people in the Boat who were affected by the Scurvey our number in all amounted to seven the disposition of the people seemed so friendly we went worse armed than ordinery we had two Muskets and three or four Cutlaces we boath took our swoards and each of us a pistol on our first landing we visated there Houses and such victles as they eate themselvs they offered us but they are so intolerable filthey there was nothing we could stumac except the frute.
766
767They then amused us shewing there dixterity with there arrows and spears they then began a war dance it was long and hedious accompaneyed with frightfull howlings indeed there was somthing more horrid in there song and the jestures which accompanied it than I am capable of Discribing it Chilled the [60] bludd in my vains. The dance over we left the natives to themselves and walked along the beach to the boat where the people were cutting grass and only one or two of the Natives with them we went past the boat a little way but within call to a small sand flatt in hopes to find some clams while we were digging for these shell fish a young Black man Marcus Lopius a native of the Cape de Verd Islands and who had shiped Captain Grays servant at St. Jago's being employed carieng grass down to the boat, had carelessly stuck his Cutlas in the sand one of the natives seeing this took a favourable oppertunity to snatch it at first unobserved and run off with it one of the people observing him before he was quite out of sight called vehemonantly thretening to shoot him in hopes he would abandon the stoln goods and make his escape but I had given posative orders to our people not to fier but in cases of the most absolute emmergence when for self defence it might be nesecery.
768
769'Twas the hollowing of our people that first roused our attention and we immediately flew to know the cause, we were informed of the sircumstance adding that the Black boy had followed him in spite of every thing they could say to the contorary.
770
771I was struck by the daingerous situation the ladd was in and feared its concequences doubting of there being a posability of saving him from the impending [61] danger, but resolving no project should go untried without hesitation ordering the boat to keep abrest of us we ran toward the village we mett several Chiefs persons whose
772
773-- 38 --
774friendship we had taken every oppertunity to obtain by kind youseage and liberal preasants Indeed it seemed before this period we had fully effected it to these people Mr. Coolidge offered several articles to them of great value to bring back the man unhurt, this they refused intimating there wish for us to seek him ourselvs. I now remarked to Mr. Coolidge that all the natives we saw were unusualy well armed having with them there bows arrows and spears however we proceeded still further and on turning a clump of trees that obstructed our prospect the first thing which presented itself to our view was a very large groop of the natives among the midst of which was the poor black with the thief by the colour loudly calling for assistance saying he had cought the thief, when we were observed by the main boddy of the Natives to haistily aproach them they instantly drenched there knives and spears with savage feury in the boddy of the unfortunate youth. He quited his hold and stumbled but rose again and stagered towards us but having a flight of arrows [62] thrown into his back and he fell within fifteen yards of me and instantly expiered while they mangled his lifeless corse.
775
776We were now by our passing a number whom as I remarked before we supposed to be our friends situated between two formidable parties. Those we had passed being reinforsed by a great number from the woods they gave us the first salutation by a shower of arrows Our only method was to get to the boat as fast as posable for this purpos we turned leaving the dead body; for it would have been the highth of imprudence as our Number was so small to have attempted its rescue we made the Best of our way for the Boat assaulted on all sides by showers of arrows and spears -- and at length it became absolutely nesecery to shoot there most dairing ringleader which I did with my pistol Mr. Coolidge and one man who was with us followed my example and Mr. Coolidge ordered those who were in the boat to fier and cover us as we waided off for the boat could not come within a considerable dist[ance] of the shore. But undaunted by the fate of there Companions they followed us up to the middle in water and slightly wounded both Mr. Coolidge and myself in the hand and totaley disabled the person who was with us onshore who fainting with loss of blud lay lifeless several hours and continued to bleed a torant till the barb of the arrow [63] was extracted,
777
778-- 39 --
779we jumped into the Boat and pushed of and were soon out of arrow shot when we found this they launched there Canoes intending to cutt us off indeed they were well situated for it but some were timid some were bold and not half paddled but keeping a constant fier from the boat they came bairley within arrow shot before we were nigh the sloop, and they returned towards the shore as soon as we got onboard we discharged two or three swivel shot at them and in a few Moments not one Canoe was to be seen all having fledd, duering the whole of the night it was dismal to hear the hoops and houlings of the natives they had fiers on the beach near the spot where the ladd was killed and we could see great number of them passing too and froo before the blaze.
780
781I must confess I should not have lett them enjoy there festervile so peasabley had I been Cap. Gray but his humanity was commendable.
782
783Murderers Harbour for so it was named is I suppose the enterence of the river of the West 89 it is by no meens a safe place for aney but a very small vessell to Enter the shoale at its enterence being so aucwardly situated the passage so narrow and the tide so rapid that it is scarce posable to avoid the dangers. It is provable [sic] whenever a vessell goes there they may procure twenty [64] or thirty good sea otter skins. We know but little of the manours and customs of these people our stay among them was so short. the men ware no Cloathing but the skins of animels well dressed the women wore nothing but a petticoat of straw about as long as a highlanders kilt, 90 there hutts were very small made of boards and a neat matt on the flore they appeared to be very indolent and were intolerably filthey. there Canoes were very well shaped for paddling and every yousefull purpus there language we attained no knoledge of and I am of opinion it was very Hard to lern.
784
785I am posative it was a planed affair which first gave rise to Our
786
787-- 40 --
788quarrel seeing how fue we were they had hopes of overpowering us and making themselves masters of our Cloths and arms and had we been taken it would have been no difficult jobb to have made a prize of the Sloop for Captain Gray had but three people left onboard. It was folly for us to go onshore so ill armed but it prooved a suffishant warning to us to allways be well armed ever afterwords.
789
790Indeed I think it prudent no boat should land among the midst of such numerous tribes without another well armed boat to protect her landing.
791
792On
793
794Sunday the 17th
795
796
797
798having a moderate breze to the Eastward at 4 AM we hove up and Came to [65] sail making a second attempt to gett to sea haveing passed the sand point of the Harbour and Middle ground, the wind died and the tide setting with great rapidity over the outer shoal we were obliged to lett go our anchor in two fat[ho]m water, the tide ebbed and the surf rose to so vast a size that we struck a great maney times so violently hard we could scarce stand the Deack the surf breaking over our taffle 91 stove in our cabbin widows and allmost filled it with water as soon as the tide began to slack we hoisted the longboat out and run a small anchor to the eastward which when hove taut on keept us clear of the ground till still water when we hove up and worped into deep water and came too with the small bower for the flud tide began to run so strong we could not gett out till the ebb returned while we lay on the bar we saw a large war canoe go out of the Harbour keeping at as great a distance from us as posable.
799
800We received no damage from this accident except having the pintles and gudgins of our rudder bent so they would not admit it to come down into its proper berth.
801
802Monday the 18th
803
804
805
806was calm and foggey. the natives of the Harbour all came down to the beach that was situated nearest our vessell with all there Canoes we [66] continualy heard them shouting and it was answered by maney voises on the outside of the barr and at ½ past twelve we saw three large war canoes each containing upwards of thirty armed men it was so foggey that we did not see them untill they were within half a musquet shot we becken'd to them to keep there distance but they continued to paddle towards us and
807
808-- 41 --
809we could plainly see that the better part of them satt with there bows reddy bent and there spears in there hands there behaviour being very suspisious three swivels were discharged at them 92 and they paddled off with great speed we then hove up and worped out without aney further difficulty.
810
811Tuesday 19th.
812
813
814
815Tuesday was moderate and pleasant but having had a good run from Murders Harbour we had passed a considerable length of coast which no doubt afords maney valuable furs we were 4 or 5 miles from a strait coast trending NW b N in 18 and 20 fathems water observed in Latitude 47° 11' N. 93
816
817Wednesday 20th.
818
819
820
821The twentieth the winds were light and weather fair at ten AM two canoes with four people in each came alongside we purchased several sea otter skins of them at a very reasonable rate for iron but they expressed a great desire for copper. 94
822
823Thursday 21st.
824
825
826
827The 21st the breze was light from the southward [67] and a very strong currant setting in shore at 2 AM we had shoaled our water from 17 to 7 fat[ho]m water we came too with the small bower at 5 two Indion Whaleing canoes 95 [came] each having 6 people they had nothing to dispose of except four or five beaver skins. There whaleing utentials were very curious but they would part with none of them at 6 weighed and Came to sail at 7 Green Island 96 bore North distant 4 Miles Quunelth 97 (for that is the indion name for the village where these Whalemen belong) bore NNE distant 7 Miles Tacked and stood in with the land I observed in Latd. 47° 30' N the land we were now abrest of at a
828
829-- 42 --
830distance inland rises to exceeding high mountains covered with snow. 98
831
832Friday the 22nd
833
834
835
836the 23 and 24th the wind were conterary and the weather unpleasant, tho' we endeavoured to beat along shore we scarcely held our own. Sunday 24. I observed on sunday in 47° 43' N and Longitude 123° 50' W the variation by azmith 15° 44' E.
837
838We had moderate brezes NNW on the 25th with foggey disagreable weather plying to windward very near the Land in from 40 to 19 f[atho]m water at ½ past 11 AM the fog cleard away and discovered a number of craggey and detached rocks and reefs laying at a [68] considerable distance from the shore 99 at meridion we sounded in 22 f[atho]m water over a bottom of Rocks and shells Tacked ship and stood off Observed in 47° 57' N.
839
840Tuesday 26th.
841
842
843
844The 26 was fogey and it was but impurfectly that we saw the land and our distance from it was very considerable having been forced of by a current however I am of opinion the Straits of Juan de Fuca exist 100 tho Capt. Cook posatives [sic] assurts it dose not for in the very Latitude where it is said to lay the coast takes a bend which very posabley may be its Enterence 101 I observed in Latd. 48° 5' No. and Longitude 124° 50' W and to the ENE lay a very Deep Bay in the enterence of which lay a great maney Islands to this was given the nam[e] of Companeys Bay 102 and there is but little doubt but it affords Good Harbours.
845
846Wednesday 27th.
847
848
849
850The 27th on the first part was Calm with a very large swell from the westward earley in the morning a light breze sprung up from the southward we made sail standing off West North West untill day light and then North West the coast trending Northwest by West the coast is low near the sea and rises one step after another into excessive high mountains covered perpetualy with
851
852-- 43 --
853snow. I observed in Latd. 48° 43' No. Longitude 124° 54' W the variation 17° 6' E.
854
855Thursday 28.
856
857
858
859Calm allmost all the 28th all hands employed mending sails, at 6 In the morning two canoes came off with two men in each they looked at us a little [69] while with an air of great indifference and then paddled farther out to sea where they hove too to fish. My Latitude by observation was 48° 53' No. in the afternoon we were visated by 3 Canoes containing 46 people from among the islands in Companeys Bay as soon as they came within Muskit shott of us they paddled with exceeding great haste singing an agreable air and keeping stroke in time to the tune with there Paddles and at the end of every cadence all together they would point there paddles first aft and then forward first hooping shrill and then horce, they went three times round the vessell performing this manual exersise, 103 and then came alongside without further seremoney the principle Chief in the Canoes came onboard on the first invitation they had no sea otter skins and but fue of aney other sort its beyond a doubt some English Ship must have visated here this season for they plainly articulated several English names 104 they were very extravigant in there demands for every thing we wished to purchase in concequence of which but little commertial intercorse took place it was late in the affternoon when they Departed but they first sang a song the air of which was very agreable, the remander of the day was moderate and Cloudy and we gained only 5 Miles to the Northward the 29 the Wind to the Northward and westward beating to windward. [70]
860
861Saturday 30th.
862
863
864
865Moderate brezes and pleasant in the Morning but the Affternoon it became foggey and unpleasant at 2 PM it died way calm and a very large swell going with the currant setting to the southward drew us nearer in with the shore than we were aware of and the first thing that discovered itself to us thro' the fog was a wide spredding rock laying nearly level with the waters edge over
866
867-- 44 --
868which the surf broak with violent rage not further distant from us than a hundred fathum and in a few moments we saw several others equelly dangerously situated it being a purfect Calm we were hove along by the swell on a direct line towards them we had seventeen f[atho]m water sharp corrol rocks we maned our sweeps and providentialey a light air sprung up which wafted us clear and we had but little to spare for there was scarce the hollow of one swell betwixt us and a watery grave.
869
870While we were in this pittiable situation Several canoes came of having with them maney sea otter skins they would not come alongsid the swell was so great and our vessell had so much motion but by sines gave us to understand that a little to the Eastward there was a harbour which they called Nootka wether this name was applied to it to delude us in or it is the name of a harbour the great number of sea otter skins they were possessed of operated strongly in a determination to go in and its enterence was by this time fare in view the long boat was hoisted [71] out to tow in which she was asisted by the Natives in there Canoes and late in the afternoon we came too with the small bower in 7 f[atho]m water over a bottom of sand in a tolerable well sheltered roadsted 105 soon after sunsett the natives all left the vessell and retired to there habitations the night was exceeding pleasant.
871
872Sunday the 31
873
874
875
876the weather was exceeding pleasant earley in the morning a great maney of the Inhabitants came of Bringing with them an abundants of Skins but greatly to our mortification there was nothing in our vessell except muskits would perchace one of them but that was an article of commurce we were not supplied with having scarce armes enough for our defence copper was all there cry and we had none for them, the principle or superior Chief of this tribe's name is Wickananish 106 he visated us accompanyed by one of his Brothers compleetely Dressed in a genteel sute of Cloths which he said Capt. Mears had given him. Capt. Mears's name was not the only one they mentioned for they spoke of Capt. Barkley Capt.
877
878-- 45 --
879Hannah Capt. Dunkin and Capt. Duglas 107 what they said of them we now knew so little of there language we could not Comprehend.
880
881The natives had left there summer habitation which is situated on the West side of the Roads and [72] followed the fish up the rivers at 7 in the morning we maned [and] armed the long boat and an officer went in her in surch of a good watering place this she easily found with a most excellant Harbour land locked and sheltered from all winds anchorage in 7 fathum water good holding ground its enterence is narrow and the tides rapid. the Roads is a good place of shelter and is by no means wild or dangerous while at ancher I observed in Latd. 49° 9' N the Longitude of the anchoring place is 125° 26' W. at Merid[io]n we weighed and sailed from Hancocks Harbour. 108
882
883A good maney vessels having been at this port all in the fur trade 109 there can be no doubt a great number of skins have been purchaced and even now were we possessed of Copper or Muskets or even chizles 110 made in a proper form fifty or sixty excellant skins of sea otters might be purchaced in a few hours and very probabley five times the number, for these tribes who have intercourse with the European traiders extend there trafic to those more remote collecting skins for the next vessell that may come, the shortage of our tarey prevented me from taking a sketch of the Harbour but I expect ere long to see it again.
884
885September. Tuesday 2
886We were scarce out of the Roads the boats in and anchors stowed when it began to blow a gale of wind at West norwest nor did it discontinue till the Second late [73] in the day we stretched off shoar and at Meridion we were as far to southward as 48° 9' No. and the wind still continued strong at NorWest all the 3d, the fourth was nearly calm and so fogey we could not see the
887
888-- 46 --
889Land the fifth a light breze to the Westward we clawed along shore to the Northward as fast as posable and were at Meridion in Latitude 48° 50' No. and Longitude 125° 15' W. the 6th and 7 when ever there was a breze it was very light from the westward but it was generaly calm with a very long swell from the Southeast we were on soundings from 30 to 40 fathum water over a rockey bottom and so near the Land and Reefs, that we could plainly hear the surf but it was so fogey we could not see the quarter of a mile the 8 at 10 PM the fog clearing off we saw the Land which appered to be Islands two or three Miles distant a light breze sprung up from the south[war]d and we stood off till 8 when the weather was more clear and we saw the land being Cloudy we had No observation nor was it posable to Calculate our Latitude with any degree of acuracey having been drifted about at a great rate in maney directions by strong Currants for several days Monday 8. we stood in with the land with a moderate breze and when about 3 Miles distant from it when we had 40 f[atho]m water the coast trending WNW with a great maney Cragey Barron Cliffs that looked like no land we had seen before; and before the late [74] gale and foggs we could planely see as far as Point Breakers 111 which is the southeast extreem of hope Bay of which Nootka Sound is the head consequently being strange land must be to the Northward and Westward of our intended port I imparted my opinion to Capt. Gray hinting I thought it best to hove too till we might gett the altitude of the sun and determin our latitude but Captain Gray supposing us to the southward and Eastward of the port caried a pressing sail along-shore to the Northward till Meridion Tuesday 9th. when we observed in Latd. 50° 22' 112 this confurmed my conjectures beyond a doubt. our Longd. 128° 30' W. we hauled our wind stretching off shoar to the Southward.
890
891On the 10th blew a perfect gale of wind and the sea was greatly
892
893-- 47 --
894agitated observed in 49° 53' No. the Wind SW stretching in for the Land.
895
896Monday 15th.
897
898
899
900Heavy gales of adverce winds and very thick Disagreable weather untill the 15th when the wind was moderate at WNW we stood along shore in hope bay and at 5 oclock in the Affternoon we were Disagreably situated in shole water among large Beds of kelp we were in as shole water as 3 f[atho]m with a very rockey Bottom but we were luckey enough to dissengage ourselves before Dark at sunsett the north point of the enterence of Nootka Sound bore East distant 5 Miles. 113
901
902Tuesday 16th.
903
904
905
906The night of the 16 was Calm at 5 AM we had a moderate breze of the land we made sail and stretched towards ship Cove 114 the place where Captain Cook Lay [75] when he was in this Sound intending to lay there till we could discover some more commodious situation here we expected to Meet the Columbia 115 and we were all posative within our minds that she must be in the sound when we saw a Boat under sail cuming round north point we hove in stays and stretched for that side of the Sound but it was nearly Calm, 'twas not before the boat came very near that we discovered it to belong to some strange vessell 116 as soon as they Came onboard the boat was ordered to assist ours in towing we lernt that there were two Snows 117 laying in a cove on the west side the sound at the village where Capt. Cook visated and mett with so friendly a reseption 118 thither these Gentlemen offered to Conduct us
907
908-- 48 --
909and Captain Gray complied with there obliging request. it was the commanders of the two vessells and the chief officer of the smallest that were now onboard they breakfasted with us and About 9 AM there sprung up a light Sea breze that caried us into the Cove by ½ past 11 and we anchored with the small bower in 5 f[atho]m Water over a Bottom of Sand and moared with the kedge to the westward we found riding here the Fillis Adventurer John Mears and the Efagenia Nubiana Wm Douglas Commanders fitted from Macao in China and under Portogees Coulers 119 both belonging to the same merchents one vessell had made the Coast to the Northward and the other to the [76] Southward and mett at this plaic having betwixt them collected a very valuable cargo of Furs 120 Captain Mears ariving here some time before Captain Douglas landed his second officer Mr. Funter and a party of artifisers who first bult a tolerable strong garison or place of Defence 121 and then went to work bulding a small schuner about 30 Tuns while Captain Mears Cruzed the Coast collecting skins we found this vessell nearly compleet and they purposed to launch her in a few days. 122
910
911We found the natives had quitted there village and remooved far up the sound 123 the Commanders of all three of the vessells and the Chief mate of Capt. Mears Mr. Duffin Dined with us in the course of conversation we lernt that Captain Mears would depart for Macao in two or three Days leaving Capt. Douglas to compleet rigging etca. of the Schuner then hee allso would leve the Coast to winter at
912
913-- 49 --
914the Sandwich Islands. 124 All the time these Gentlemen were onboard they fully employed themselves fabricating and rehursing vague and improvable tales relative to the coast of the vast danger attending its navigation of the Monsterous Savage disposition of its inhabitants adding it would be maddness in us so week as we were to stay a winter among them. Capt. Mears protested both vessells ever since they had been on the coast had not collected fifty skins; on our smileing (for we had been differently informed) he said it was a fact upon his sacred word and honour, so intent was this Gentleman in deceiving us that he hesatated not to forfit his word and Honour to what we were convinced was a notorious [77] falsity. 125 The fact was they wished to frighten us off the Coast that they alone might menopolise the trade but the debth of there design could be easily fathemed. They very polightly offered to aford us every asistance that lay in their power.
915
916Wednesday 17th.
917
918
919
920Disapointed at not finding the Columbia in the sound and at our geting no intercorse with the Natives not even to obtain the suplies of Fish and vegetables that were nesecery for the vessells youse Captain Gray in the long boat maned and armed went over to the other side of the sound in surch of some of there villages 126 and by conversing with the inhabitants convince them of the friendly intention of our visate to the sound but they saw not one of the Natives all hands were employed onb[oar]d prepairing to haul on the ways to grave.
921
922Friday the 19th
923
924
925
926We hauled onshore and payed her bottom Captain Mears polightly alowed his blacksmith to repair our redder
927
928-- 50 --
929Irons which had been damaged on Murderers harbour bar. 127 this day they launched there Schooner and named her the North West America on this occasion the ships saluted and the Day among the English was spent in festivity and mirth 128 the 20th at high water hove off and moared ship. all hand were kept constantly emp[loye]d prepairing for sea cutting wood and filling water.
930
931Monday 22.
932
933
934
935An intimacey on a very friendly footing subsisted between the English gentlemen and ourselvs. and Captain Mears offered to be the bearer of aney letters he wished to comunicate to China this offer Capt. Gray accepted and giving him a packit on the 22 assisted in towing her out of the harbour wishing him a good voyage returned [78] before Captain Douglas but how great was his surprize when Capt. Douglas returned, at finding his letters in-closed in a note from Captain Mears apolagiseing for returning them saying he was not certain to what part of India he should go therefore could not insure a safe Delivery of them. This scheem was well consurted he was fearfull that through the letters to our connections some information would be communicated relative to the trade on the Coast that would be of disadvantage to the intrest of his companey. he knew had he refused to carey our letters we could have prevailed on some of his officers or people to convey them for us (for I take him to be a man of Deep penetration) he seemed obliaging on that score that he might make sure of no letters going by aney other convoyance. this ungentlemanlike maner of behavior gave us an unfavourable opinion of Captain John Mears. 129 this Gentleman is a Lieutenant in the British Navy had been several years in India and about three Years ago he was fitted by a companey of Gentlemen at Bengal in the Snow he is now in and a small Schuner for this coast he met with maney difficu[l]tys his small vessell was cast away on the Alaskion Islands and in his snow he wintered at Prince Williams Sound, where by the riger of the Climate and the Scurvy
936
937-- 51 --
938he losst allmost all his seamen and Officers 130 he left the coast without exploring aney great extent of it and tuched at the Sandwich Islands, from whence he took a young Chief of rank and went to Macao, Tiana the young Chief accompaney'd [79] him to the North-west Coast, and from hear he is to be caried to his native Islands by Captain Douglas. 131 these vessells were very indifferently fitted for provisions and Cordage tho' they had plenty of the princaple articles for trade (Copper and Iron) all the provisions Capt. Mears could spare reserving only a scant proportion to last him to China united to that Cap. Douglas had before was bearly enough to preserve existance till they could reach the Sandwich Islands. and but for the provisions we supplied them with they would have had maney a scanty meel. 132
939
940Tuesday 23d.
941
942
943
944Our people were employed constantly in the nesecery duties of prepairing for sea our water filled and wood cut the hold and rigging overhauled, some of our Gentlemen were onshore and saw a sail in the offin which by our glasses we soon knew to be the Columbia I concluded at first sight her people were in an advanced state of the scurvy for tho' very moderate and pleasant her topsails were reefed and her topg[allan]t Masts down on deack. Captain Gray in the long boat immediately went out to render them all the assistance that lay in our power: and about 5 oclock in the afternoon she anchored within forty yards of us.
945
946They had been so unfortunate as to loose two of there people with the Scurvy and most of the rest of the Crew were in an advanced state of that malignant Distemper: 133 after we parted with the
947
948-- 52 --
949Ship off Cape Horn 134 they encountered maney very heavy gales of wind they tuched at Masafuero But finding it would be attended with great difficulty to wood and water they immediately went to Juan Fernandies, and arrived about the 29th of May, [80] when we in the Sloop were in 12° North Latd. near 46 Degrees of Latitude to the Northward of them. They met with a very polight reseption from the Governer of the Island and were plenteously suplied with all things that were nesecery. and departed after a stay of about seventeen days. 135
950
951Wednesday 24th.
952
953
954
955As Captain Kendrick had now arrived every thing must of course wate for his orders. and as frequently as he was ask'd what he would have Done to forward the expedition, he as frequently said we can do nothing till these Englishmen have left the place. 136
956
957Accordingly Captain Kendrick set his Carpenters Caulkers Blacksmith etca. at work to fasilatate there Departure suplying them with provision naval stores etca. while they menopelized all the skins nor could we get intercourse with one of the Natives even for the purchace of fish or deer.
958
959We had exceeding boisterous weather for a long time, which was unfavourable to our work onboard or onshore.
960
961Sunday 28th.
962
963
964
965The 28th our uperwork being open and the weather tolerable pleasant the Caulkers were employed on them and on the 30th they were compleated.
966
967Wednesday the 1st of October
968being the anever[s]ery of our departure from the East side of the Continent at 12 oclock in honour of the day the Columbia fiered 13 Guns 137 we next fiered 13 and it
969
970-- 53 --
971was returned with 7 from Captain Funter 138 at the house onshore 139 and 6 Guns from Efagene. all the officers of each vessell were invited to dine onbord the Columbia and the remainder of the Day was spent in mirth and festivity.
972
973The weather thro' all october was rainey and Disagreable. [81] The scarsity of provisions and oil onbord Captain Douglas determined him in a resolution to send the Schuner up the sound to purchace what fish and oil was to be disposed of and no do[u]bt to purchace skins was the princaple object of there expidit[i]on Messrs. Ingraham Howe and Treat accompaneyed Capt. Funter they sailed the 14th.
974
975The 16th and 17th was attended with very heavy gales of wind with much rain.
976
977On the return of the Schuner we found they had not penetrated so far up the sound as they at first intended. and there mode of trading with the natives was. On there arrival at a village to plunder them of all the fish and oil they could find and give them perhaps a small pese of copper in return far less valuable than the provision they had taken by forse, and leav the poor harmless wretches unprovided for a long and rigerous winter. this cruel behaviour seemed allmost unpardinable. Nay from the snow they would frequently send there boat in chace of the canoes and bring them too by fiering musket balls at them, for they [sic] Natives were far more fleet in there Canoes than boats of the european bult are, and rob them of there fish. 140
978
979On 23rd in landing the long boat in a bad surf she was filled and a muskit broke.
980
981Sunday the 26th 141
982
983
984
985we had moderate brezes with frequent showers
986
987-- 54 --
988of Rain at 10 in the morning all our Boats towed the Efagene out of Friendly Cove, bound to the Sandwhich Islands.
989
990The natives no sooner saw the snow 142 clear of the [82] Sound than they flocked to us in great numbers with fish oil and some venson and a very friendly intercourse soon commenced by which we were plentiously supplied with provisions and some skins. the natives are ha[r]mless and inofencive people, and well discribed by the Great Cap. Cook.
991
992It was determined by Captain Kendrick to winter here in Noo[t]ka Sound 143 with both vessels he allso settled his mind on Rigging our sloop into a brig 144 without consider[in]g he had not cordage duck nor blocks suffisiant for the purpose Monday 27th. with these projects in our heads we went to work and cut some of the spars but these labours soon relaxed and turned another way. For captain Kendrick had all hands turned too to buld a house onshore which kept them emp[loye]d several days and again this fell through.
993
994Our Cabuse 145 being in a shattered trim originaly of but little value being bult of wood was now become intierly useless, nesesiated us to burn a lime Kiln and buld a new one which we covered with a tolerable house large enough to contain all hands, much of our time was employed burning charcoal for the smiths.
995
996November 19th. Wednesday
997The weather now began to be coald with frost and snow, and on the evening of the 19th having frequently seen the tracks of deer on a beach not far distant from the ship it struck me if I lay wate in some seacret place near where they haunted by night favoured by the lightness of the snow I [83] might shoot some of them encouraged by these hopes I set off about 6 oclock in the evening the coald was severe nor was it very comfortable sitting in the crag of a rock but about 10 I was fortunate enough to shoot a fine large Buck I shouldered him tho' heavy and luged him to the vessel exulting largely at having shot the first, tho' I met with equell success several times after.
998
999-- 55 --
1000It was the constant employ of a considerable party of our people to burn coals suffishant to supply our Smiths.
1001
1002Copper was the article in demand this we were unprovided with and the only substitute was Iron worked into chizles after there own plan these to they soon redused the value of inhancing the prise from three chizles to ten but had they been kept at three far more skins would have been parchaced. 146
1003
1004Fue incidents marked the time the natives visated us allmost every day with fish deer and oil and a fue skins. our chief amusements were fouling and hunt[in]g. in both we had tolerable success. the weather was generaly rainey and very disagreable.
1005
1006We had a shed made onshore of the long boat turned bottom upwardmost where a constant guard was kept to prevent the natives from steeling our water casks etca. which were landed at this place to make room onbord the ship.
1007
1008Friday [December] 12th
1009but to our great amazem[en]t on the morning of the 12th we found the natives had [84] landed and carried of 5 small cannon given to Capt. Kendrick by Captain Douglass, 15 water casks besides several things of less importants the water casks were a heavy loss 147 nor knew we aney method to retrieve the indions habitations were far distant from us of course there chiefs and people of consequence were out of reach, the next natives that visated us told us the people of the oposite side of the sound 148 with hoom they were at war were the agressers this story pasafied Captain Kendrick for fearfull of punishing an inosent person he lett the matter drop unnotised. the cooper was immediately employed making the number of the ships water casks good.
1010
1011Captain Kendrick had been for several weeks up to his elbos in morter bulding a brick chimne where the mizon mast had stood tho' he had a good brass stove. its bad consequences we all dredded and endevered to disswade Capt. Kendrick from it, but to no purpose. 1789.
1012
1013January. Tuesday 13th
1014on the 13th of January we were haled
1015
1016-- 56 --
1017told the ship was onfier we all went onboard directly to give every assista[n]se that lay in our power the fier was near the magazeen. the heat of the fier had communicated thro' to the Deack and burnt both deack and curtins the coals had droped down the after hold and set the sails on fier as they lay [85] against the magazien bulk-head it was fortunate it was discovered before it went to an iritrievable length, but being discovered in time it was soon quenched.
1018
1019Tuesday 20th.
1020
1021
1022
1023Having over hauled our rigging on the 14th we got it over head with new Jib and forestays about this time Venson was tolerable plenty for the Natives generaly sold us two every day nor would the rigour of the weather detur them or some of them from there daily visates. The 20th Captain Gray intended to have hauled onshore to grave our bottom we sliped our S[t]ern cable and were short on the best bower. I believe cap. Kendricks aprobation was not asked on the subject. seeing us unmoar without his orders he haled us in a pett and ordered Captain Gray to moar ship immediately again. this of course we obeyed 149 however to make up for the detention his carpenters were employed making the spars for the sloop which we were difishant of for all id[e]a of making her a brig was totaly abandoned Friday 23d. the 23d we weighed and hauled onshore there was a large swell the wind was light with snow Saturday 24th. we payed both sides and on the 24th hauled off and moared with the best bower to the NE and the small bower to the SW we immediately ballised and stowed the hold the 28th a large canoe with the chief of Hancocks harbour 150 his brother and several persons of distinction with [86] upwards 30 excellant sea otter skins but they sold us but fue as they wanted Copper and muskits Wednesday 28. the natives now began to come down in great numbers and a friendly [ ] subsisted and a good maney sea otter skins were purchaced and about the last of this month the natives came to reside in the cove.
1024
1025It was judged expedient for the better defence of the Sloop against the natives should she be attacked to buld a bullwork all round her
1026
1027-- 57 --
1028with ports for an additional number of cannon this was immediately set on foot and added much to her strength and safety as we were defishant of spare rigging and Junk on the 19th we recieved a suply of them and several other neseceries from the Columbia.
1029
1030Sunday the 22d I accompaneyed the Captains Kendrick and Gray in two armed boats with an intention to Recover the stolen cannon having had inteligence at what village they were, but the place being much further distant than we at first had supposed we returned without success.
1031
1032February. Wednesday 25th
1033The 25th we recieved 450 Indion Chizles.
1034
1035March the 4th
1036Recieved from the Columbia a hogshead of bread.
1037
1038When we arrived in the sloop at this Cove we were informed by Captain Mears that he had had a very serious Mutiney onboard his ship and its ringleader was his Boatswane 151 [87] Thursday 5. these people where [sic] in confinement but supposing as we were week handed we would give shelter to one of them John Green the Boatswane broke out from the house where they were confined and the evening we first hauled on the ground to repair and clean our bottom he made his case known to Mr. Coolidg adding that he was well aquainted with the Coast and the languages Spoke on it. such a man as this as we ware all ignorent both of coast and languages it naturaly struck us might be servisable but Captain Gray had given captain Mears his word he would not take him on board while the snow was in the port. but we suplied him with provisions Captain Mears left him onshore, and when the Columbia arrived he was taken as a seaman onboard of her. he continued to do his duty onboard her till the 5th of March when he was told to Sign the articles this he refused and Captain Kendrick ordered him immediately onshore among the savages. 152 And George Monk a seaman ship't by Capta[in] Kendrick at St. Jago's having signed the shiping paper was
1039
1040-- 58 --
1041told his wagers [sic] was to bee less than the rest of the seamen and complaining it was not Just he was ordored to quit the ship which he did and dwelt in the woods. We had a goode deel of rain tho' the air was not cold for several days. Tuesday 10th. The 10 Captain Kendrick having been informed that shelter was given by the natives to [88] Monk threttened Culecum one of the greatest Chiefs with his most severe displeasure if the man was not delivered to him before long and in the evening we landed with two boats maned and armed and took him prisoner from one of the indion houses.
1042
1043Wednesday 11th.
1044
1045
1046
1047We now painted our sloop payed her sides and bends and prepaired for sea.
1048
1049Thursday 12th.
1050
1051
1052
1053The 12th being a clear pleasant day we sent on-board the columbia two casks of Iron wraught into axes adzes etca. to be altered into Indion chizles and recieved from the Columbia six hogsheads of Bread and thre quarters having recieved one the other day three Barrels of Pork and 4 of Beef we allso delivered to the collumbia seventeen gallons of Molases and a Barril and a half of Indion corn. the columbia lent us there kedge and small hauser. The 14th we bent sails and were Reddy for sea our intended cruze was to the southward where we were to lay at Hancocks harbour 153 till the sun should cross the Equator.
1054
1055Monday 16th.
1056
1057
1058
1059On the morning of the 16th being clear and pleasant with the wind to the northward we weighed saluted the columbia With five guns which was returned with 3 being safe out of the cove Captain Kendrick and his officers took leve of us with three cheers and returned on our part. [95] 154 While we are runing to Clioquot 155 I will give a short account of Nootka Sound and its enverence.
1060
1061Our constant converce with the Natives enabled us to gain a considerable knoledge of their Language Manours and customs I have here insurted a vocabulary which enabled us to converce on allmost aney Subject with facillity.
1062
1063Nootk[a] Sound was discovered by Captain Cook March the 30
1064
1065-- 59 --
10661778 on his passag to the Northen hemisphere of this Ocean. 156 but from the natives we lern their was a Ship anchored at the enterence of the Sound forty months before Captain Cooks arrival from the description they must have been Spaniards but the natives say their boats weir not out duering their tarey, 157 the Sound is situated in Latitude 49° 36' N and Longitude 126° 46' W of Greenwich it abounds with good harbours well sheltered from all winds. the Sound is navagable near 20 Leagues where it again meets the Sea in another out let near as large as Nootka about 7 Leagues along shore to the Westward. 158
1067
1068Uquot or Friendly Cove 159 is situated on the West side of the sound nearly at its enterence [it] is a well sheltered harbour on the west side is a beach allmost the length of the cove on the bank above the beach is situated a large town the sumer habitation of the Natives.
1069
1070At this place we wintered and it was here Captain Cook met with remarkable sivel treatment from the Natives. [96]
1071
1072Soil Their is but Little soil from the unequality of its surfice that could be rendered arable indeed the trees are every where of so enormious a sise that it would be attended with emence labour to Clear the Land in the most level and promising place the mountains rise steep to a very great hight and to their sumits are clad with an emence forist whose roots wove in with the crags of their rockey foundation are cherished with but little soil and that mearly the decayed limbs and moss about two feet deep in a fue places the wind
1073
1074-- 60 --
1075has blown the trees up by the roots and discovers that to the top of these huge mountains tis one continued mass of rocks.
1076
1077In the woods we find Fir spruce of several sorts white pine Red and white Ceder white Cypruss Ash Alder Burch Hemlock popple maple Crab tree Wilde cherry and a small tree that resembles a Hemlock the wood is close graned and resembling mahoganey but heaveyer. and the natives tell me their is oak at Matchlat 160 a village far up the Sound we frequently meet with gooseberrys rausberrys currants blackberries strawberries and thimble berries in the spring their is plenty of small wild onions 161 but late in the season they are not so well flavoured. the rivers produce water creeses and the marshes Samphire. their is some good clover grows in the neghbourhood of the villages their are several sorts of fern roots the natives eat that I am not aquainted with one sort which [97] is very small and when boiled tastes like a sweet potato and is not unpleasant food but its not plenty. 162 there is puslin wild celery hogweed sorril wild peas and mullin.
1078
1079The natives of the sound are below the middle size they indid are prity Large about the sholders and those parts of there body they keep in exercize are well proportioned thier principle employment being paddling their arms and bodies become more muscular while thier Legs are crooked and ill shaped indeed they not only in their canoes but in the Houses set on their hams that when they walk they never straten their knee but from constant habit keep it on a bend walking parot towed. the faces of some of the females are pleasing but the generality of boath sex have high cheak boans a low brow a small black eye with a drowsey aspect their lips are thick mouth and nostrils large and their skin constantly covered with red paint and oil. Their dress is in general a garment with three sides square the lower edge rounding with a fringe and the uper edge trimed with Fur. on each side about two inches in bredth the garment is composed of wool of the mountain sheep 163 but the rest of the
1080
1081-- 61 --
1082garment is made of the bark of a Ceder tree beat to a state that it sum resembles hemp these garments are gener[a]ly worn under the left arm and tied near the corners over the right sholder. with this they generaly were another garment resembling a petty coat with a small [98] hole large enough to admit the head this when on falling over the sholders reaches as low as the elbows. they ware curious conical caps 164 on their heads but their feat and legs are allways bare in very rainey or coald weather they generaly ware a Bear Woolf skin or dears they have allso blankits of excellent workmanship of the wolls of mountain sheep and as well dun as tho it was wove in a loom.
1083
1084Their ornaments are necklaces of beads coper bresslets and earring but orniments in the nose are not fashonable tho' all their noses are perferated but they highthen all these orniments by anointin[g] themselvs all over with paint and oil and covering their hair with fethers they throw onto their faces a sparkling sand resembling isingglass which sticks to the paint thus equiped they recieve visaters and pay visates where formality is nesecery.
1085
1086House Furniture Domestic utensils the sides of the houses are purpendicular the top nearly flat both cover and sides are of excessive wide bords the ridge pole is an enormious size sum near 12 feet in sircomference and little short of an hundred feet in Length the side poles which are on a small decent from the ridge are not so large the houses are in general about 30 feet wide but of various Lengths from 20 to an hundred feet in Length each of these houses are divided into small apartments apropreated to the dwelling of seperate famelies these apartments are made only by a single board about three feet wide so when a person stands up they can see all over the house each famely has a fierplace and their is a long passage from the dore to the further end of the house 165 where the
1087
1088-- 62 --
1089chief of the Famely usualy lives at the right hand side [99] They sit on boards covered with mats elevated about six inches above the ground. for orniment on the inside of their houses they have the pillers that suport the ridge pole and side poles carved into the shape of human faces with extorted fetures others of beasts and imagenary animils 166 the Frame poles of the house is usualy painted but frequently carved in a very curious maner the boards They have about their houses I have very frequently seen 6 feet wide and they are generaly more than 4. the[y] eat regularly breackfast in the morning Dine at noon and sup at Dusk. They are intolerably filthy and in warm weather they isue no very pleasant efluvia.
1090
1091They amuse themselves in evenings and some times in Day time by making entertainments for their Nighbours on these ocasions their chief mirth consists in singing and dancing they are clamerous but accompaneyed in true time by the beating of paddles etca. against the roof and their voices met in exact unison indeed the womun sing sometimes malodiously. they have a game which is played by seting a stick purpendicularly in the sand he that knocks it down wins the bet such as knives etca.
1092
1093Their weepens are bows arrows Spears Dagers and stone axes they now use fierarms but their usual method of fighting is with the speer they gener[a]ly surprise their enamey in the night and do the chief of the buseness before the rest awake with their stone axes these are of diferent forms sum of them [100] are made with a long wooden handle and at the top representing a mans head with hare on it and the stone placed in its mouth to represent an enormious tongue others are mearly a wedge with a handle cut round on the stone about 9 inches from the edge and above the handle is a human face with distorted features and are realy curious their are but fue of the native that are good bowmen nor do they throw a speer with dexterity it is a custom to adorn ther weepens with the teeth of their vanquished enemies.
1094
1095Here are Bears Wolves Moose fallow and rain deer Foxes raccoons
1096
1097-- 63 --
1098squrrels minks Land and sea otters Dogs Beavers Martins wild Cats and Mice.
1099
1100In the woods we find several sorts of woodpickers, Robbins the Vergina red bird, snow birds, yellow birds, long tailed thrush ground birds, tomtits, s[p]arrows wrens, parterages, Quales, hawks, owls, Eagles of several sorts Ravens, Crows, swallous, Doves and pidgeons of water fowl are Geese, Ducks, Brants two sorts of shags several sorts of Shrill drake, two sorts of teel, large Loons several sorts of divers and Gulls, Murs, 167 Marsh larks, kingfishers, and swans.
1101
1102Fish their air plenty of whales, but fue spermasity maney right Whales and an abundants of humpbacks, Porpoises Salmon of various spesies Breem flounders Cod and halibut Sculpins Frost fish Their are fish resembling the West india Red and white snapers black fish Dog fish Herrins Serdenas and Seals The shell fish are Oisters Scollops Clams Limpts coules mussels pearl sea egs and starfish.
1103
1104Their Canoes are made of one log dug out and neatly shaped about 10 feet long, these are most generaly in use [101] but they have others to the length of 30 feet these are used in war and whaleing the small canoes are intended to contain two persons and are chiefly employed in fishing the larger sort carey frequently 30 persons but the whalers never exceed six. these canoes are pritte titlish the stern rises purpendicularly and the head stands forward a considerable distance their extreem bredth is forward of the beem they are very swift they are well calculated and excellently adapted for every perpose of these people who manage them with great dexterity they make no use of aney other sort of tool but a Chizzle a wooden wedge and a round stone for a mallit in the manufactering of their canoes spliting of Boards falling of trees and Cuting of Fierwood.
1105
1106The employment of all classes of people are bulding and repairing their Canoes spliting of Boards making and repairing their fishing geer and of the Lower C[l]ass and boys bringing home their Fierwood The Women prepair the bark of Ceders by soaking it and
1107
1108-- 64 --
1109beating it till it becomes in a flaxen state this they weve into garments allso in making their caps or Hatts they allways split and Clean the fish and asist in hanging them up to smoak it is the lower class of the womens buseness to bring all the fish from the Canoes to the Houses and the gethering of Clams etca. at Low water when the food is preserved and sufishantly Dry by smoak they pack it down in boxes or bales and Lay it a side till the time of need.
1110
1111Food and manner of Cooking They eat but fue [102] Roots and these are allways collected by the Women in the spring of the year. Dried fish and oil constitute the principle part of their diate but whenever they can git it they eat Bear Deer and Geese Raccoons martins and Squerrils but they abhor either Woolf or Dog Dried fish spawn is allso in abundants and great estemation in Febuary the herrins became plenty and they seldom failed to Load their canoes in March the taking of these fish was forbit in the Nyhbourhood of the cove in which we lay when on a sudden to our great surprize every canoe and allmoast every person of the Village went up the sound and in a fue hours returned loaded with hemlock bows these they sunk with stoans a bead of considerable bulk this was intended for the fish to fix their spawn on 168 in about a month they will hawl them up and fix long spar raftures to dry them on by their account they must collect several thousand wate in a season their usual method of cooking is to boil the Food in a wooden box with hot stones by this method they make a nurishing soop and serve it out to each person in a small boat they frequently broil their dried fish. they begin to be fond of Rum and Wine they will eat bread or aney thing sweet but have great avurtion to salt or aney thing that is salted.
1112
1113Religion and method of burieng ther dead the[y] pay great adoration to the Sun they believe in a supreem god and a Deavil they have several strange stories of this strange monster they say they were doing some bad thing on the beach in some past ages when the dredfull fellow made his apearance they represent him as Black with fiery eyes he is of an enormious size and has but one
1114
1115-- 65 --
1116Leg. [103] but so nimble that after eating twenty or thurty of them the blud runing a plentiefull streem down each side of his mouth he at one hop went across the sound and they now suppose he dwells in the woods they suppose their departed friends become guardions over and senders of the fish and anamils that are of most service to them and they think it gives the disceased great pain to cut particular sorts of fish cut with a Knife and that thay will send no more if it is allowed off. they think their is different degrees of bliss proportioned to their valour and dexterity in killing Whales or beasts and the taking of fish I have seen the old people appear to pray with great furver and shed tears They put the Dead of superior rank into boxes ornemented with the teeth of sea otters with their knees close up to their Chin into these Coffins they put the fishing geer or Weepen he was fond of duering his lifetime and carie this Box to the top of sum very high tree about ½ a mile from the Village where they lash it securely bending the top limbs round the Box and as they decend they cut the limbs close off to the Tree which renders it diff[icult] of access. the lower class of people they put in boxes and lay under the trees or at the feet of rocks. 169
1117
1118A plurality of wives is alowed among them and every person has as maney wives as he can purchace the parents of Chiefs generaly purchace their sons Wives from distant tribes at a very exorbutant prise of Iron Copper Canoes etca. 170 when a child is born it costs near as much to perchace a name for it the Chiefs of other famulies generaly name it and untill [it] arrives to a considerable [104] age they change their name every Year and when he arrives of age he asumes a number of Names or Titles.
1119
1120When aney of the villagers die they make great lementations a little time before we sailed I was onshore with Captain Gray and had walked to the Distance of 2 or 3 miles from the village on our
1121
1122-- 66 --
1123return we were amazed to [hear] a Lowd and most pitious moan on inquiering the cause I was informed a Canoe loaded with herrins had upset and that a Mischimmee or Labouring man was drownded and that it was the Women condoling with the Widdow and moaning over the corps for they say they revear the memery of a person who dies in so Laudable a persute.
1124
1125The next morning their was a large contribution collected at the Chiefs house and from thence it was caried in prosesion to the house of the disceased and presented to the Widdow and Children. the Like donations they say are allways practiced on similar occasions.
1126
1127Thes people are canables and eat the flesh of their vanqu[i]shed enemies and frequently of their slaves who they kill in Cool blud they make but little serimoney in owning the fact and I have seen them eat human flesh Myself. 171
1128
1129The impliments for Fishing are for savages well contrived the harpoon is made of a stout mussle shell barbed with boan fastened together with gum and a worp fastened to it their is a small sockit in it to ship the Staff 9 feet long and as large at the end as a persons arm but very taper towards the harpoon their worps and lines are of Whale sinue and they have a number of Seel skins turned inside-out and blown up with wind these they have to Keep the Whale from diving deep. 172 [105]
1130
11311789. March. Monday 16.
1132
1133
1134
1135The weather was pleasant at Noon Breakers point 173 bore East Distance 2 Leagues the wind noow sprung up lively to the Westward and we made sail along shore the Coast trending about E b S and maney Dangerous reefs set off far from it at sun sett we were within 4 Leagues of Clioquot when we hove too with the wind to the WNW with our Head off shore all night it was light brezes and pleasant Tuesday 17 in the morning
1136
1137-- 67 --
1138of the 17th the winds were variable we stood in shore and it died away Calm at this time it was flud tide sinking into several small rockey inletts we drew nigh the Land fast we were nesesitated to anchor the outwardmost rocks at the enterence of Clioquot bearing SE b E Dist[ant] 2 leagues. While we lay hear Totees'cosettle 174 brother to the Chief of Clioquot came onboard at ½ past 12 a smart Breeze from the Westward sprung up having Leyed an hour and a half we weighed and stood into the Roads at ½ past 4 we anchored in 8 f[atho]m Water over a sandy Bottom.
1139
1140Maney of the natives came off several of the Chiefs were onboard and sold sum skins at sunset we fiered a gun and they all Departed peasably
1141
1142Wednesday 18th.
1143
1144
1145
1146Earley in the morning Captain Gray went up into the Harbour and returned at 12. I observed the situation of our preasant anchoring place to be 49°6' No. at ½ past 12 with a light breeze from the Southward weighed and run up into the Harbour and anchored at 2 PM and at 5 Moored with the Kedge up streem 175 this day we purchaced a number of Good skins finding game plenty I went out and shot some Geese.
1147
1148The 19th and 20th the weather remaining good the natives were onboard as usual one a Chief from the [106] Village A'howset 176 that called himself Captain Hannah 177 he sold us maney skins and seemed a very inteligent old Fellow As usual the weather as changable as the Wind Saturday 21st it now became southwardly accompaneyed with rain and it continued till the 23 blowing heavy having purchaced Skins Captain Gray determined to keep the remainder of his Chizles for the southern trade and tho' there were an abundance offer'd we purchaced none.
1149
1150-- 68 --
1151We lay Doing nothing but amuse ourselves by Shooting etca. till the 27 Dewering which time I took a tolerable accurate survey of the Harbour Friday 27th. Earley in the morning which was hazey we unmoar and towards the last of the ebb we weighed and run out of the Harbour at 7 AM came too with the smaller bower in 4 f[atho]m Water above the bar I then in the Long boat being low water sounded the bar and Roads at 10 Captain Gray with the small boat sounded another Channel into the Harbour 178 at ½ past 12 weighed and beat down into the roads at 2 anchored abrest anchor rock Captain Gray accompaneyed by Mr. Treat Went onshore to the Village 179 Moor'd Ship with the Streem anchor to the Eastward and Small bower to the SW at ½ past 5 Capt. G. Returned from the Village the Night was gloomey with Rain.
1152
1153Clioquot or Hancocks Harbour 180 is in Latt. 49° 9' N and Longitude 125° 26' W from the Meredion of Greenwich
1154
1155In these Roads their is good anchorage and [107] Shelter at the head of the Roads which runs in an northwardly direction lay the Harbour well sheltered from all winds and totaly Land Locked from the Sea To sail into this port give the East point of Observatory Island a small birth and then border on 181 the Western shore towards the Village Echahchisht 182 about a ¼ of a mile from Harbour Island 183 on the East Side Lays the spit and middchannel will carey in good water 184 when you can See passage rocks open with fortification bluff you are Channel way and will carey 2 f[atho]m Water over the bar. then you pass to the SE of Harbour Island in the Channel their is from 7 to 14 f[atho]m the tide is run very rapid and at slack water is the only time that it is advisable to go
1156
1157-- 69 --
1158through the best anchoring place 185 is about ½ a mile from harbour Island on an eastwardly direction and a ¼ of a mile from the south shore here is 7 f[atho]m Water and a botom of Sand in this situation the passage Rocks are on a range with Opitsel'ah, 186 from the Harbour Island to the passage Islands except a narrow passage about twice the bredth of a Ship and here there is 5 f[atho]m Water at Low tide their are plenty of good streems of fresh water and wood is to be procured at every part for the Land is clothed with one continued Woods we found great abundance of game Geese espesialy
1159
1160We were all the time while in this Harbour on the moast friendly footing with the natives who discovered a very good disposition. The natives whose disposition manours and Customs exactly resemble those of Nootka are a stouter better proportioned people.
1161
1162Their Towns are larger and much more numerously inhabited than those of the Sound 187 they are better bult. [108] And are cleaner their Clumas or carved pillers are more numerous and better exicuted some of these are so large that the Mouth serves as doarway into their houses some of their ridgpoals which are of incredable Length and bulk are neatly Fluted others are painted in resemblence of various sorts of beasts and birds we met with resemblences of the Sun both painted and carved the rays shoot from every side of the orb which like our Country Sign painters they pictur with eyes nose and mouth and a round plump face 188
1163
1164In all these houses they have plenty of skins which they told us they would rediely part with for Chizles or Copper but of the former they demand an exorbutant price ten for a skin and the latter we are totaly destitute of.
1165
1166I realy think their is a great inland communication by rivers the whole land we could see I have good reason to suppose to be Islands 189
1167
1168-- 70 --
1169the village in the roads is on an Island on the West side called Echahchisht the village in the Harbour Opitselah and their winter Village Oakaminah 190 far up a fresh water river where they have plenty of Salmon and other fish. The large canoes of this Port are much like those of Nootka but the small ones are shorter and of a greater bredth of Beem here they percevere in the taking of Whales more than aney place I have yet met with on the Coast 191 Saturday 28th. in the morning it was Clear and Coald at ½ past 5 we unmoored and took in our boats and at 5 Weighed and Came to sail standing along shore to the ESE with a fine Northwardly breeze so close as to deturmin wither aney harbour existed or not it was near 10 oclock [109] before we saw aney thing that had an appearence to furnish us with an Idea that their was even shelter for a boat we now opened the northern extreem of Companeys bay and as we sailed along it saw it to much greater advantage than we had last summer, we could plainly p[e]rcieve the Islands formed good harbours of easey access I regreted passing this port unexplored but it was Captain Grays opinion that so nigh as it was to Clioquot the price would be but little different but there is but little doute we shall see it before our southern cruze is out and perhaps more remote tribes may trade on easeyer turms the hills to the south of this bay is more equel in hight than those of the north the shore is boald and Ironbound at meridion I observed in Latitude 48° 44' North and at this time we saw a cape or Headland which I suppose to be cape Flattery 192 bearing SE b E but to the eastward of this no
1170
1171-- 71 --
1172Land could be seen as we proceeded E b S as the coast trended I fully concluded we were in the straits of Juan de Fuca. at 2 PM we passed the village Nitenat 193 it is in Latt. 48° 42' N and Longitude [ ] W. we passed this and keeping the North shore onboard we proceeded along shore in an E ½ S Direction it now began to blow heavy and Looked like disagreable weather we stood up the Straits till ½ past 4 in the afternoon when hauled into a deep bay 194 We stood up in a NNE direction and anchored under the Lee of the west shore about 2 Miles from the enterence in 7 f[atho]m Water sandy bottom with the small bower. we hoisted [110] out the boat and I went and sounded the bay but saw no natives at one place where their was an excellent streem of water I landed and saw a deserted hut and the feet marks of both men and beasts it blew very fresh when we came too but in the evening it died away Calm with Rain Sunday 29th. in the morning We saw the smoak of the Natives habitation at 8 we weighed and came to sail stood up the cove about 3 Miles and anchored on the East side about ½ a mile from the shore oposite to us is an excellent streem of water and the ground on which we anchored is a strong clay intermixed with shells at ½ past 9 we saw a canoe at a great Distance they approached us with great caution and when within hearing made maney exclamations of Friendship before they ventured nigh we were glad to find they spoke a dialect of the Nootka Language. 195 they came nigh and received a fue presents but with great timidity. they appeared to be a poor set of Fellows and are of a very inconsiderable tribe they left us with promises to bring some fish and before long a good maney of the natives in two or three Canoes came off with Salmon for sale and they remained with us all day.
1173
1174These people have seen vessels before as they are acquainted with the efect of Fier arms but they all say they never saw a vessell like
1175
1176-- 72 --
1177ours and I believe we are the first Vessel that ever was in this port. here may be expected but fue skins for they brought none for sale. This place by the natives is called Patchenat and by us Poverty Cove. 196
1178
1179Monday 30th.
1180
1181
1182
1183The 30 Was rainey disagreable weather the Natives brought [111] off Salmon as usual in the Night the wind was fresh to the Southward.
1184
1185March 31st.
1186
1187
1188
1189The Weather became clear about 3 in the Morning of the 31. at 6 the boat was dispatched for a turn of Water and at 8 AM we weighed and stood out with the boats ahead towing at 9 a Breeze sprung up and we stood across South with the Wind at WNW as soon as we came within ½ a Mile of the South shore of the Straits we bore up and went along shore in an ESE direction about 4 Leagues w[h]en we saw a large canoe cuming off their was at this time a tumultious sea caused by the meeting of the wind and tide we hove too to wate for the Canoe and the Sea made fare 197 breaches over us the canoe came mearly alongside they had no skins and told us their were none up the Straits but that the Chief Tatooth of Clahaset 198 had purchaced them all they offer'd their own manufactored blankets which weir realy curious and Children for sale. 199 but as their was so disagreable a chop of a Sea we had no farther intercourse with them but hauling our Wind we stretched towards the North shore. To have run farther up these Straits at this boisterous season of the Year without aney knoledge where we
1190
1191-- 73 --
1192were going or with what difficu[l]ties we might meet in this unknown Sea would have been the hight of imprudence espesialy as the wind was situated so we could not return at pleasure. 200 the straits appeared to extend their bredth a little way above our present situation and form a Large sea stretching to the east and no land to obstruct the view as far as the eye could reach the Land [112] on both sides was high and over grone with woods on the South shore as we run along it the water was deep and Shoars bould but as we stretched to the Northward the Water became shole and ground foul at 6 in with the North shore tacked in 7 f[atho]m water Rockey bottom 201 at 9 PM were again on the south shore but had the Mortification to find she was 3 Miles to Leeward of the place we departed from we tacked and again stood off the Wind veared to the southward and we Lay up West southwardly on the Morning of the 1 of April the weather was moderate and Clear and we saw the Sun rise clear from the Horizon up the straits the Variation [ ] E we were beating in with a place on the south shore that had the appearence of a Harbour when on a suden a very Heavy Squall struck us from the SW b S. however we got all our sail in without loss the wind and sea were much to violent for us to attempt [to] gain an offin and a lee shore tho' very thick was fair in view we now determined to run into Poverty Cove 202 we bore away accordingly and were fortunate enough to hit the cove and anchored at 2 PM the weather was coald with heavy Squalls of
1193
1194-- 74 --
1195Rain wind and Sleet all night much hail and Wind. the morning was pleasant and Clear but a very great sea out.
1196
1197April Friday 3d
1198Earley in the morning of the 3, the weather was clear and pleasant with a light Northwardly breeze at ½ past 5 we weighed and run out at 10 Poverty Cove bore North Dist[ance] 6 Miles. and a larg swell from the sea setting up the Straits and a good surf on the Shores behind an Island 203 on the south shore Captain Gray had formed very sanguine hopes of their being a good Harbour prompted to seek it by a number of Natives who were alongside with good [113] skins we stood in accordingly to a deep bay 204 open to the NW Winds and swell we anchored in 5 f[atho]m and veared a great scope but it was some time before she brought up, in fact our situation was so dangerous that Mr. Coolidge and Myself advised Captain Gray to weigh imediately this he complied with and we stood out. when we had got out abrest the enterence we hove too and purchaced a number of good sea otter skins they told us the village abrest of which we anchored was named Nee'ah and I have no doubt on the other side of the Island tolerable good anchorage might be found of these people we bought some good Halibut, I was not much prejaused in the favour of these people tho' they spoke Nootka Language but they wanted that harmless inofencive counteness so agreable in our Northeren friends.
1199
1200Their was now a strong tide setting out of the Straits and a Wind blowing strong from the Eastward at 1 Oclock PM we bore away and run out of the Straits at 2 Abrest a Reef of rocks 205 which runs out from Cape Flatery in a WNW Direction Distance about 8 Miles betwixt this and the Cape is Tatooches Island or Chandie here we are informed by the Natives is a large tribe but the Sea was so high not one Canoe came off it is about 4 Miles 206 from the cape
1201
1202-- 75 --
1203which is in Lattd. 48°20' N and Longitude 123°55' W and makes the south cape of the Straits of Juan de Fuca. The wind now grew light and a great Swell heaving on shore from the westward the evening was calm and Disagreable the surf roaring awfully Chandee bears N ½ W 18 Miles.
1204
1205Saturday 4th.
1206
1207
1208
1209In the morning of the 4th it breezed up at SE [114] and we stretched off SSW and by 6 AM it blew a purfect gale of wind and we were reduced to very snug sail at 10 the wind shifted and became more moderate from the NW. we wore and stood SSE with a heavy sea Cape Flattery bearing North I observed in Latitude 47°35' No. Light breezes and a heavy swell at 5 hove too with her Head to the Westward for the Night. 207
1210
1211Sunday 5th.
1212
1213
1214
1215The 5th the weather was changable squalls of wind and Rain and alturnatively indeed so precarious that we could not venter in with the Land for to the South[war]d of Cape Flattery and to the Northward of 45°28' N their is not a Harbour or at Least we know none 208 the Coast abounds with Natives and good Sea otter skins but at this season of the year it is attended with the most eminent danger to cruze this part of the Coast and the advantages that may accrew from so great a hazard are by no meens equivelent for when we came along this shore Last sumer when the weather was mild and pleasant fue of the natives came off tho' we were day after day close in with the Land how much less then may the Natives [be] expected off when it allmost constantly Blows a Gale of Wind the sea runing to a mountanious hight and we very Distant, for it would be the hight of imprudence to come near in such weather as we now experience.
1216
1217Monday 6th.
1218
1219
1220
1221Early on the 6th the Wind increesed in a violent degree and reduced us to a 3 Reef'd Main sail and head of the fore sail at 8 Captain Gray finding the gail likely to continue violent deturmined to bear away for the Straits Juan de Fuca in hopes to gain shelter in Poverty Cove. We bore up and [115] ran along the shore with the wind at SSE untill 10 when it blew with such heavy gusts that It obliged us to Reef again and before this was done it
1222
1223-- 76 --
1224blew so violent and was so thick that we could not see the Land upon which we hauled our wind and stood off SW 3 hours upon a wind when it Shifted to SW and blew strong with a large sea. the coast to the southward of Cape Flattery trends about E b S and we hauled our wind to the Southward heading SSE and often SE and the wind was so strong that we made two points and ½ Leeway this decrees'd our offin very fast However deef to our persuasions Captain Gray would not heav about but persisted in a southwardly direction tho we could soon regain our offin on the other tack. 209 at Dusk Cape Flattery bore NNE distance 7 Leagues and the Southwardmost Extreem of Land SE. It was Squally with hail and Sleet all the night Tuesday 7th carieing as much sail as the Vessel would allow off a Lee shore we made not better than a SE Course all night and at Day Light the southwardmost extreem of Land bore SE. Foggy rocks NW b N Green Island E ½ N. 210 Queenilth steeple rock ENE. at 6 the wind veared to SSW we wore Ship and stood off West at 8 Moderate Lowered the sails down to mend having been much shattered in the Late gale the weather was not unpleasant at Meredion I observed in Latitude 47° 54' No. the wind at South Laying off shore it soon thretened bad weather and at 6 we took in the Jib and double reefed the mainsail it soon blew a gale at SSE and before Midnight blew very heavy. Wednesday 8th. On the 8th at 1 AM hove too under our foresail the gale increesed so fast and we had found by experience they were so frequent and the sea so heavy that it was deturmined to bear up and lay [116] off the straits mouth and wate a favourable opertunety to go into Poverty Cove. at 4 AM we bore up under the foresail and steared NW to give the Land a proper birth the weather thick and Squalley at 8 AM set the mainsail still continuing our course at ½ past 2 PM saw the Land ranging from NNW to ENE at 4 hove too with the Jib to windward and weather Moderate we were now on the north side at the enterence of the Straits of Juan de Fuca. we had the wind from the Southward and Eastd. and a strong
1225
1226-- 77 --
1227current out of the Straits we hauled to the SW till Midnight when we wore and stood in to the NE intending to fetch to windward of Companeys Bay and go into it Thursday 9th. but so strong had been the current setting to the Northward that at daylight on the 9th we found ourselves Only 3 Leagues to windward of Clioquot 211 it now came so thick that we could only desern the tops of the hills above the Harbour however we soon found our way in and at ½ past 8 anchored in the Roads 212 [ ] point bearing SE Echachisht 213 East and Observatory Island 214 South we anchored with the small bower in 7 f[atho]m water.
1228
1229Friday 10th.
1230
1231
1232
1233The morning of the 10 was moderate and pleasant several of the Natives were off with skins at 10 Mr. Coolidge went up the Harbour to shoot some game. about Noon I was surprized at hearing a very suden and Loud shout and seeing allmost every Boddy runing from the village to their canoes I was soon eased from my suspence by my Friend Hannah 215 who told me Wickananish had struck a Whale and that all the Villagers where going to his asistance I was curious to see them kill this large fish with such simple impliments and went in a canoe accompaneyed by Mr. Treet to be [117] spectators on our arrival at the place of action I found the Whale with sixteen Bladders fastened to him with harpoons the whale was laying at this time unmolested waiting the return of the Chief who was in pursute of another but immediately on his return he gave the order for the atack his mandate was answered by a low but universal acclamation the next brother to the Chief 216 invited me into his canoe this I rediely complied with we were paddled up to the fish with great speed and he gave him a deadly pearce and the enormious creature instantly expiered they fastened a number of Bois on the Fish and took it in tow to the Village I had maney invitations to visate and partake with them but with this I did not comply on my Return onboard I made particular inquieries relative to their customs in whaling. they told me the first Whale that
1234
1235-- 78 --
1236was killed in a season it was their custom to make a sacrefise of one of their slaves the corps they lay besid a large pece of the Whales head adorned with eagles feathers after it has lay'd their a sertain time they put it in a Box as usual they say it is particularly pleasing to their Deaty to adorn a Whale with Eagles fethers for they suppose thunder is caused in conflicts between that Bird and fish that an Egle of enormious size takes the Whale high in the air and when it falls causes the noise Thunder. on their Whaling excurtions they frequently cut their tongues and paint themselvs with the blud that the Whale may not be afraid of them and run from them or they afraid of it they have maney other superstisious Id[e]as relative to this fish to consider the imperfection of their utentials musel shell harpoons and lances with [118] Roaps we must allow them expurt Whalemen.
1237
1238The 11 was strong gales and Squally from the SE. purchaced of the natives a number of good skins Sunday 12th. in the morning of the 12th We had a light breeze to the westward with which we weighed and stretching out shaped our course for Companeys Bay at Meridion I observed in Latitude 48° 54' N. we found the bay abounded with sunken Ledges which but seldom make their appearance on the North their appeard to bee a good enterence between a high rock and a long ledge but Captain Gray chose to run rather to leeward in surch of a more roomey passage about 2 We were abrest the Village Cechasht 217 and we run in past several dangerous reefs. the westwardly wind followed us but a little time when we took it from the other side of the Islands directly Contrary to the direction in which we wanted to sail and we had the mortification to find the tide made Strong agains[t] us we continued to ply upwards of 3 hours but finding we could do nothing we came too in 30 fathem Water but she draged and we were soon off the bank we hove up and made a stretch to the Northward and wore for the vessel would not stay and stood out upon a wind Captain Gray wished to have stood too and fro in the Bay all night but in this we overpersuaded him considering the number of reefs that would take us up
1239
1240-- 79 --
1241tho obscured by water and our being unaquainted with their situations we should have run Eminent Danger.
1242
1243Monday 13th.
1244
1245
1246
1247We stood off upon a wind untill 1 AM when we wore and stood in NNW at day light we had the satisfaction to See the northern enterence of the Harbour under our lee we bore away for the south enterence with the wind at WNW and a lively breeze but on our doubleing the SE point off the Islands the wind served us as it had on [119] the 12th but the tide being under our Lee we made but two bords before we fetched into an excellant Harbour a great maney of the natives were round us but we were disapointed in finding they had no skins they told us Wickananish had been down there and purchaced all they had. in the latter part of the day I sounded the Harbour and in allmost every part found from 10 to 17 f[atho]m W[ate]r the place is very snug and in every [way] as good a harbour as aney I am acquainted with on the Coast of North West America. 218
1248
1249Tuesday 14.
1250
1251
1252
1253Earley on tuesday Morning We hoisted the long boat out and I was ordered to sound the North enterence I found in it 30 fathems water and nearly the bredth of ½ a Mile the north part of the enterence is a Ledge which it will be prudent to give a good birth but the southern part which is a steep Rock which you may go within 15 yards of and have more than suffishant water for the Largest ships this is a very good passage for ships bound in with a fresh Westwardly Wind but it will not do to go out with for when we wind is westwardly their is not Room to beat out and when Southwardly it is fair within ½ a Mile of the narrows when it draws round the South Islands and renders it by no meens safe we set two sunken reefs in the offin and found one to bear SW b S about 2 Miles and the other S b W about a Mile at 12 I returned the latter part of the day was Rainey disagreable weather and in the night it blew hard from the southward Wednesday 15. the 15 was dissagreable Weather with the wind southwardly. [120]
1254
1255Thursday 16th.
1256
1257
1258
1259Earley in the Morning of the 16th with the Wind to the southward we weighed and towed out of Cechasht Cove followed by a great number of Canoes we made several stretches
1260
1261-- 80 --
1262athwart the Bay but had the bad fortune to fall to leeward of the harbour from whence we sailed and we were obliged to send the boat ahead and man the sweeps to gain an anchoring place and at 11 AM came too with the small bower in 14 f[atho]m Water.
1263
1264It was calm all the remainder of the day and all night Friday 17th. in the morning of the 17th the wind was to the Eastward but very Light at Noon a light breeze sprung up to the Windw[ar]d we immediately unmoord and swept out of the Harbour when the b[r]eeze began to freshen but it was but of short duration and we had the mortification to find it was an edey wind we had felt and the true one was SW which blew directly into the bay we hauled our wind to the southward and made a stretch over to that shore two Large canoes came off from a Village on that side of whom were purchaced 4 good skins I have no doubt but at their village they are tolerable plenty.
1265
1266We made several bords before dark but gained but little at Sunsett the outwardmost breacker from the North Island bore SW b W distance about 3 Miles the southwardm[os]t Ile SE and the hole in the rock NW thus situated it fell Calm and the tide caried the Vessel at Randum at ½ past 8 a light breeze sprung up with which and with sweeping we were enabled to lay out SW 1 Knot and at 9 saw the breackers a little distance from our lee beem at 10 PM it was moderate and clear and being out of danger we [121] bore up for the Straits of Juan de Fuca.
1267
1268Saturday 18th.
1269
1270
1271
1272At Daylight the Straits was open to view the wind was moderate at NE at Noon I observed in Latt. 48° 27' No. and Longitude 124° 25' W Cape Flattery bearing E ¾ S distance 7 Leagues Poverty Cove by its bearings and Distance must be nearly in Latitude 48° 38' N and Longitude 123° 34' W 219 It was moderate all the afternoon and sometimes Calm untill ½ past 7 PM when it obliged us to take in our light sails the wind came off the land in flaws in the night it was Calm.
1273
1274Sunday 19th.
1275
1276
1277
1278At 2 AM on the 19 a light breeze sprung up at NE
1279
1280-- 81 --
1281and we s[t]ood in to the eastward untill 6 when we saw several Canoes cuming off. of these people we purchaced several good sea Otter Skins at 5 Chizels each we lay too off this place where their is a village little to the Southward of foggy Rocks 220 off which place we were on the 26th of August 1788. having purchaced all their skins we made sail for the Southward with a gentle breeze at NW at Meredion I observed in Lattd. 48° 1' No and Longd. 123° 48' W Foggy rocks bearing No. Distance 6 Miles and Cape Flattery North Distance 18. at ½ past 1 PM the wind hauled to the SW with a moderate breeze and we hauled our wind plying to the southward but on Monday we found we were only 4 Miles to the Southward of Chandee or Tatooche's Island 221 while in this situation the Chief with 2 canoes came off and sold upwards of 20 prime Skins and they departed well pleased with recieving 5 Chizels each and promised to bring a great number more the next day. so strong did the current set that tho' it was Calm allmost all the succeeding night we were huried into the Straits 222 at daylight several [122] Canoes came off and upwards of 30 sea otter skins were purchaced but we had the Mortification to see them carey off near 70 Others all of excellent quality for want of Chizels to purchace them and they repeetedly told us they had left great abundance onshore. Tuesday 21. we now made sail for Nootka Sound and as we passed the Village Nittenat the Chief 223 came off he allso brought with him maney good skins. had we been provided with aney thing that would have purchaced Skins we should no doubt at this place have got near 200 in the evening we had a moderate breeze at SW and Clear weather.
1282
1283Wednesday 22nd.
1284
1285
1286
1287In the morning of 22nd by Degrees the wind drew round to the SE. at Daylight we were abrest of the north cape of Companeys Bay 224 it now became a lively Breeze and at 9 Clioquot bore NNE. the weather now became thick and hazey the wind Fresh and thretened a gale it was nesecery as we intended to gain the port of Uquot before night to carey sail very hard
1288
1289-- 82 --
1290at 1 PM we were abrest of Breackers point 225 when we took in topsail flying Jib and Squairesail set the Jib and foresail and hauled up for Nootka Sound going at the rate of 10 Miles per Hour at 3 we anchored in Friendly cove we found Captain Douglass 226 riding here having a fue days since arrived from the Sandwich Islands. but the Columbia had remooved up the sound to a cove about 7 Miles Distant from us. 227 we Moor'd Ship hoisted out the boats and Captain Gray went up to Mawenah to inform Captain Kendrick of his arrival in the afternoon two of the Columbias Gentlemen came down to visate Captain Douglass they [123] informed us all were well onboard it was heavy Gales and Rainey all night.
1291
1292Thursday 23d.
1293
1294
1295
1296Earley the next morning the NW American Schuner was seen in the offin standing in 228 at 10 the Captains Kendrick and Gray came down they had determined the Sloop should remove to the situation where the ship was and at ½ past 10 we weighed and at 1 PM anchored in Mahwiank or Kendricks Cove in 3 fathem water within 15 Yards of the Shore and within 40 Yards of the Columbia we were greatly surprized to find the ship not reddy for sea she was now mearly a Hulk had not been graved or scarce aney prepairation been made for sea. they had indeed landed their Guns bult a Good house bult a good battery landed most of their provision and Stoars and had their blacksmith forge erected in the House and when we arrived in the cove they were casting their balles prepairing to grave her bottom the smiths were immediately employed to furnish us with another Cargo of Chizels and all our people in refiting our Vessel for sea repairing the sails and recruting our stock of wood and water.
1297
1298On Wednesday the 30th earley in the Morning I accompaneyed Captain Kendrick on a shooting excurtion we went up the sound
1299
1300-- 83 --
1301and entering the first arm about 2 miles to the Westward off Cooptee 229 we went up about 5 Miles and turning to the east we found the shore on our starbord hand was a small Island 230 and a branch of the sea about a mile in bredth runing to Cooptee in a Southwardly direction. we could see a large arm [124] of the sea for it did not appear like a river stretching to the NNW 231 this we followed up to its head at which is situated the winter village of the Uquat Inhabitants 232 their were several scattering villages distributed on the banks, at several of them we landed and met with very hospitable treatment but Tashies their winter village was uninhabited 233 having shot a number of foul we bult a little house here we quartered ourselvs for the night and earley in the morning we went round the head of this River which ends in a small Brook about 2 feet deep. we found Geese ducks and Teel in plenty and amused ourselves in shooting. on our return about 5 Miles from Tashies we entered a branch trending to the southward and westward and proceeded down about 5 Miles. 234 I have no doubt it has a communication with the sea and if we may credit the natives we were not maney miles from the enterence 235 however as the day advanced we returned onboard the Tashies River is about 20 Miles in length and generaly about a mile in bredth navagable for Vessels of the largest burden to its head.
1302
1303About 15 Miles from the village Cooptee is the western passage which was navagable as far as we went down for aney vessel and from the information of the natives there is a good passage to Sea by that channel the night cuming on prevented us from going far down it was late before we arrived onboard our ships.
1304
1305May 1st
1306On the 1st of May I accompaneyed Captain Kendrick down to Uquot to visate Captain Douglas and delivered to him a man whom
1307
1308-- 84 --
1309had run from Captain Mearse last fall and had conseeled himself in the wood untill his departure from the coast he then applyed to Captain Kendrick for protection but this Captain Kendrick refused untill such time as Captain Douglas should sail on his departure the [125] man came onboard and did seamans duty untill this period and as Captain Douglas expressed a wish to have the diserter Captain Kendrick immediately returned him. 236
1310
1311On our arrival at Uquot we found the NW Schooner had sailed for the Northward. 237
1312
1313On Saturday every thing being prepaired for sea at 1 PM we sailed with a lively breeze down the sound 238 but as soon as we were out the wind hauled to the westward and as we were bound to the northward were nesesi[t]ated to beat we continued plying to windward all night and the ensueing day at 4 PM saw a Sail inshore of us and in a little time she fiered a gun and hoisted spanish coulers she hauled her wind towards us and at 5 we spoke they requested us to hoist our boat out and send her onboard this we did. 239 he was no sooner informed who we were than he said if thare was any thing in his ship we stood in need of he would supply us 240 he informed the officers that went onboard that his ship was fitted out in companey with two others from Cadaz to make discoveries on this Coast that he had put in on the Coast of new Spain and loss't most of his European seamen the defishancy he was obliged to suply with the Naturelized natives of California that he had been to the northward and we noticed he had a Northern skin canoe lashed on his quarter
1314
1315-- 85 --
1316he said he had been in Berings straits and that he had found much snow 241 And that he had parted with his consort a fue days ago in a [126] gale of wind and he expected them to Joine him at Nootka sound he was very inquisative what ships were laying in the sound when he was informed Captain Douglas lay thare he said it would make him a good prize. 242
1317
1318This Ship name is the Prinsessa belonging to his most Catholic Majesty commanded by Don Stephen Joseph Martinez 243 this gentleman endevoured to do everything to serve us he made Captain gray preasants of Brandy wine hams sugar and in short every thing he thought would be acceptable when we parted with him we saluted him with 7 Guns and the compliment was returned.
1319
1320We now hauled our wind to the southward the wind continuing at WNW and continued in that direction till midnight when we tacked and stood in shore.
1321
1322On thursday the wind increesed to a gale and tho' we had beat to the westward of woody point we were driven by violent advars winds again into hope bay and on friday morning we stood into a place called by the natives Chickleset 244 where there is every appearance of a good harbour Nay the natives signify as much it is the westwardmost inlett in the bay. about 2 leagues to the Eastward of this place is situated Cauquot 245 which I believe is a harbour.
1323
1324All Friday night it was calm and at daybrake a light breeze sprung up from the SE with which we made sail for the westward as soon as it was clearly day light we saw a snow to the SE she fiered a gun and hoisted spanish Coulers and is no doubt one of the Concerts of the spanish ship we spoke the other day however as
1325
1326-- 86 --
1327the breeze was so very [127] favourable we took no notice of the signal to Speeke but continued our course 246 we coasted along shore with a moderate breeze at ESE going at the rate of five knots we saw several places that had the appearances of harbours but did not enter them directing our course to the northward with all posable speed at 7 PM we passed Cape Ingraham 247 which lays in Latitude [ ] N and Longitude [ ] W going betwixt it and a groop of Islands which lay off it in a Westwardly direction 248 the channel betwixt the Islands and the cape is about 5 Miles wide 249 and appears to be pretty shoal about 2 Miles from the cape which appears to be the southern boundrey of a very larg gulf or sound which runs up in an eastwardly this inlet runs up a very remote distance for tho' the horizon was clear we could not see aney thing as far as the eye could reach 250 We steared across N b W to the oposite shore 14 Leagues and the coast trended westnorthwest a few miles and again another Large bay discouvers itself 251 on the western enterence of which thare is a Dangerous reef makes out to a great distance to sea the weather was now frequently foggy the coast as we advanced to the westward became craggy with low detached small Islands and dangerous sunken rocks as we proceeded to the northward we entered within a number of Islands in a very intricked channel and by noon we were in every direction surrounded with Isl[an]ds and Reefs, about two miles distant from the main the water in this sound is deep and sometimes rockey with the kelp floating on the surfice of the water tho the roots were fast to the rocks at the bottom in upwards of 20 [128] fathem water I observed in Latitude 52° 37' North and Long. [ ] W. about 2 PM a canoe came alongside
1328
1329-- 87 --
1330the natives that were in her appeared to be a very friendly disposed people they were in a Canoe exactly like those used by the natives in Juan de Fucas Straits and I am of opinion thare must be some inland communication by lakes or perhaps the sea may continue by large arms and have communication in the interior parts perhaps by the way of Pintard Sound. 252
1331
1332Their Language differed intierly from the natives we had last left, 253 and Iron was the only article of trade held in high estimation by them we purchaced of them between twenty and thurty Sea Otter skins for a very trifling number of Chizles. we stretched into a place whare the natives endeavoured to persuade us in hopes it was a harbour but on finding it was not we stood off and had the mortification of finding we were set to the Leeward 4 Miles by meens of a strong current and we were obliged to bear away under the Lee of a reef of rocks, and in a very narrow space we were obliged to Stand too and fro all night closely hemed in by the Continent on one Side and on all others with Reefs Island and Ledges The night was not dark and by tacking frequently we kept this situation all night in the morning at 8 AM two more canoes came off with a number of natives male and female the men were dressed like the natives of Nootka Sound but the Women wore a Lethern apron but of all thing the most proposterous that ever I saw is the orniments they ware [129] to their mouth 254 an insision is cut in the Lower lip reaching from one corner of the mouth to the other into which is forced a pece of wood in form ovel with a groove cut to Receive the Lip and the other part formed to Lay against the gums. this huge trencher nearly as large as a barbers Lather box as they speek flies up and down and when hanging couver all the chin
1333
1334-- 88 --
1335canted up half the nose is hid 255 the [wind] now came out of the NE Quarter and we stood in shore when about a mile of we tacked and having the wind off Shore we lay up for the Northern passage which we gained about ½ past 11 AM passing a number of shoal places and had very little to spare in weathering a reef of rocks that were washed by the surfice of the Sea we passed from this very dangerous Laberinth to a good open bay the North part of this Sound which I denominate Lob Lip sound 256 from the women of this place being the first I had ever seen who adopted the horrid custom of making insision in their Lips to admit the huge wooden orniments Lays in Latitude 52° 50' North and Longitude [ ] West we stood over to the north shore of the bay which is a very remarkable ridge of high mountains utterly barron the whole fronteer of the coast thus far appeared to be a chain of Islands by the time we had arrived nigh the shore it was dusk and we hove too for the night nigh two or three large high rocks that lay five miles from the Shore at daylight we made sail with a lively breeze at SE at ½ past 7 AM we were followed by a large Canoe full of Indions shouting loudly we immediately [130] hove too to wate their aproach this they no sooner observed than they allso halted we wated for them a short time and then made sail directly as they saw us going they followed us with great presipitation we again hove too and they came within a Quarter of a mile of us and then mounted a rock and Shook a parcel of Skins at us we now hove the Jolley boat out and an officer and fore people armed went to endeavour by friendly treetment to entice them alongside they returned without Success they gave them several presents but the poor fellows were so intimidated that they dare not aproach the sloop it is very probable that these people never saw a European before 257 and if so their timmidity
1336
1337-- 89 --
1338is easely accounted for we made sail alongshore again passed between the main Land and a Number of sunken ledges and Reefs we passed a Deserted village as we ran within ten furlongs of the Shore at Noon at a very great distance we discried land bearing SW b So. it puzled me much to gess what it could [be] wether an Island or a part of the main Continent and the Sea we were now sailing no other than a large Bay or Gulf But we generaly agreed it must be an Island 258 the wind shifted to the WNW and we stood over for the Island with a very light breeze at 2 AM the 16th we hove about for 2 hours and then resumed our former direction at noon the Land was seen at upwards of 90 miles extent ah[ea]d 6 miles distance from the nearest shore we had 2 f[atho]m ½ water rockey bottom the land nearest the shore had a very pleasant appearence [131] in Land it rises into very high land couvered with snow. but its probable later in the season the snow will be melted off. we saw no inhabitants but a vast number of Sea Otters continualy playing on the water from the form of the land we may judge thare is harbours and it is not probable so larg a tract of land is without inhabitants we again stretched over for the continent in a NNE direction we had soundings about a thurd of the way across in 20 f[atho]m water and about half way across we had soundings on a bank in 9 f[atho]m and again we resumed the former debth from 20 to 30 f[atho]m 259 we now hove too and wated till day as soon as it was light we made sail inshore and soon saw an opening which promises a harbour. we ran past several Large rocks that [lie] four miles from the Coast and then passed a low Island 260 that is on the south enterence and sounded but got no bottom with 40 f[atho]m of Line we now saw a smoak in the NE part of the bay this led us in without hesitation and we were soon visated by two Canoes we entered a small cove and anchored within cables length of the
1339
1340-- 90 --
1341Shore in 17 f[atho]m on sounding the harbour I found good anchorage in every part of it 261 the natives that came off to us had with them a fue otter skins these people were on a hunting excurtion and made us understand they were at a great distance from their village they were very anxious that we should tarrey here two or three days supposing they wished to inform the rest of the tribe of our arrival that they might bring their skins for sale they departed [132] making expressive Jestures to inform us they would return in a fue days a party was now employed wooding and watering We found wild geese and ducks of which we shot a number saw allso the tracks of Deer and woolvs and saw Turkies on the wing 262 in a plain some distance from the harbour I found Cranberies it gave me very great satisfaction to find ourselvs in so good a harbour in so boisterous a time for the weather all the time we lay in this Harbour was windy with much Rain that it would have been attended with emmenent danger to have Cruze[d] the coast it was not till the 19th that our Friends returned and much to our disapointment they had been to Kill the otters insted of informing the tribe of our arrival they had ten Otters in the boat several of them yet warm with life the natives imployed all the insueing night in drying and prepairing their skins for sale which in the morning they disposed of to us for 2 or three picks each and a Chizle or two. At 7 AM we weighed and stood out of the Cove the wind was light and it was dark before we were out of the Sound this inlet appears to be of vast extent and communicates with several other large Sound to the NE of it 263 Captain Gray gave it the appelation of Derby Sound in honour of one of our owners. 264
1342
1343It was now Captain Grays intention to assurtain to a surtinty
1344
1345-- 91 --
1346wether it was an Island we saw on the 15th or part of the continent and as a surch for tribes was a principle object he ment to keep the main coast onboard. And as thare was every appearance that Derby Sound at some season of the year is numerously inhabited we thought it probable some tribe might be found at no very considerable distance. Earley in the morning of the 21st a light breeze sprung up from the eastward and we stood to the WNW under [133] Easy sail a fue Leagues from Derby sound we discouvered a large inlett trending to the Westward this we entered and is I suppose the entrance of Adml. de Fonts Straits 265 its extent we could not See but thare is but little doubt it is very great we sounded but found no bottom with 40 f[atho]m as it would take a great length of time to explore this place we stood out resolving to examen it at some other time we now stood to the NW with a lively breeze and met with no remarkable occurance till late in the afternoon we pass't a broaken coast that forms deep dangerous Sounds with much broaken detached Island and Sunken Rocks the weather became suspisious and a southwardly Gale thretend we observed a canoe following us with grate haste shouting loudly for us to return. as soon as we saw them we hove about and stood inshore they soon came alongside and were very anxious for us to go to their village making signs that they had vast abundance of skins tho' they had none in their Canoe they were armed with iron barbed speers and wished one of us to go with them onshore a Chief offering to rema[i]n onboard as an hostage for our safe return. But the wind by this time had increesed to a heavy gale and it would have been madness to attempt to seek a harbour so late in the day and in such weather we hauled our wind to the SW and had not stood far in that direction before we saw the Land 266 about two points on the lee bow extending far to the NW. this lee shore could not be weathered without a very heavy press of Sail and even then we passed nigh a high bluff cape. if we could not have weathered it I know not what
1347
1348-- 92 --
1349would have been the consequence except [134] it was a deep bay we passed we must have inevitably have gone on shore and the thickness of the weather together with night drew so thick a vail over us that we could not see twice the Ships length.
1350
1351About 11 PM we supposed we had passed the Extreem of the Cape we had seen before dark and Judging ourselves in tolerable safty we shortned sail the wind veered to the ENE and we lay up south the remainder of the night going at a moderate Rate Untill daylight when we saw part of the same Island about a League distance bearing from SE to WSW behind which we had been these several days. it was now a purfect gale of wind and we bore up to run along shore to the westward and were followed by a small canoe paddled by an eldely man and two lively boys they manuvered their boat with great skill we hove too to allow them to come alongside but the sea ran so high they dare not venter but beckened us to run round a small bluff and they would come to us this we complied with and we purchaced of them several good skins and a number of Pluvers we could not understand a word of their Language 267 but it was a great satisfaction to find this Island well inhabited which we could planely discouver by the vast number of green banks on the coast which are their residence at some seasons of the year.
1352
1353For so plenty as otters are round this Island the natives would be plentifully stocked with their skins. This Island from what little I know of it extends from 52° to 54° 30' North about a hundred and seventy miles in length it [is] about 15 Leagues from the continent laying nearly parrellel to it the southern parts appeared high and were couvered with snow but the lands lying farther north asume a more [135] hospitable appearance the hills are of a regular and pritty equel hight thickly clad with wood and could with little trouble be brought into cultivation the Straits between this Island and the main appeared very intricked but it perhaps would appear less dangerous were we better acquainted with the navagation of it. this great tract of Land was named Washington Island in honour of that great American General 268 I was sorrey to leve it so sudenly
1354
1355-- 93 --
1356but Captain Gray wished to avail himself of the Southwardly wind which now blew to geet to the North[war]d meening to explore the Islands more thuroughly on his return.
1357
1358All the latter part of the 22nd we stood to the NW edging in to the Continent which by this time was planely in sight 269 the weather was thick with strong gales to the southward and we joged under easey sail in the night we lay too shifting our possision from one tack to the other to retain our station in the morning we stretched in towards an inlet that lay in Latd. [ ] N and Longitude [ ] W where thare was the appearance of a good harbour but we found so strong a Current seting to the northward that we could not fetch we now bore away and stood to the West[war]d passing several inlets that might have aforded good Harbours had we met with more moderate weather to have explored them.
1359
1360At noon I observed in Latitude 55° 30' North. Captain Gray was very anxious to geet into a harbour before night and not far from us thare appeared to be tolerable good shelter we hauled into it with a Free wind that blew so strong that we could suffer no more than a double reefed mainsail and Jib. but we were no sooner entered in this cove than a heavy Gust from [136] the mountains took us aback. we attempted to fill and stay but having lost her head way we could not get her round we now attempted to Wear but our limmits were too narrow and by the time we were before the wind our Jibboom and Bowsprit struck the rocks these were instantly carried away by the board and the next surf took us far up into a nook in the rocks whare we ware surrounded with huge craggy clifts nearly as high as our mast head whose summits clad with lofty pines awfuly shaded the agitated billows that were making their sport Every surf that arose lifted us high in air and as it desended dashed us against the rocks with the utmost fuery and to add to our disstress the wind increesed violently at this instant as the[y] combined against us and every surge left us resting dry on the pinacles of this murcieless Iron bound coast.
1361
1362Thus were we situated on one of the most drery parts of the coast
1363
1364-- 94 --
1365we had seen upwards of five hundred miles from Nootka Sound the only place we could hope for relief but now is no time for reflection every nurve must be strained to extrecate us from the dire delema, however difficult the case might appear thare still remained a posability Some of us jumped on the rocks and made fast roaps to haul her clear while others hoisted out the boat we sent in her a Kedge and hauser and the boat was so fortunate as to pull out through the surf without filling we ran out the whole length of the String and let go the anchor and by keeping the hauser taut every time she fleeted gained something and we soon hauled off so far that she seldom struck while on the Rocks we beat the small bower anchor off the Bows and were obliged to cut from it as soon as we had hauled close up to the Kedge we let go the best bower and [137] again run out the whole length of the Hauser and wharped up to it again and again let go the best bower anchor and Cleared the wreck of our Bowsprit and Jibboom. it had been Captain Grays intention to have wharped up the cove and thare have examened the vessels bottom before we went to sea but the Kedge caught fast of a rock and our utmost efforts would not weigh it and without it we could not put this in execution of course we must go to sea but we had this satisfaction to find our vessel was yet tight having got the Riging in such order that it could be worked with facility we had to use great surcomspection in geting under way for the rocks were less than pistolshot off. having pass't the hauser aft and hauled it taut to cast her the right way we hove up the best bower and as soon as it broke ground we cut the hauser and Ran out clear without aney farther damage we stood out a little way and hoisted in our boats struck our Yards and topmast and secured our Bowsprit in such a manner that we could carey the Jib. our stem and cutwater were bruzed into the wood ends the sheething off great part of the bottom and in all probability maney fragments of the rocks sticking in the bottom indeed every thing to dred from the shocks she had Recieved. It was thought most prudent to relinquish the design of going farther to the Northward and make the best of our way for Nootka Sound before the Columbia left it and geet our vessel repaired. 270
1366
1367-- 95 --
1368May 24.
1369
1370
1371
1372A situation more critical than ours had been for about two hours cannot be immagined even by those who have been wrecked in civelized countreys. A Coast inhabited [138] by a most horrid race of savage canables 271 in whose hands we could not hope for life and even tho' not inhabited so destitute of every thing that we esteem requisite to sustain life that a Europain could not exist. To admit we had got every thing from the wreck we could have wished and saved our arms and boats our return then would have been precarious our boats were insuffishant to carey us a much shorter distance and ni'ther carpenters or smiths to enlarge them but had these difficulties been surmounted the maney dangerous tribes we must have pass't might have prooved fatal to so small a number. This disasterous place we called Distress Cove it is in Latitude 55° [ ]' North and Longitude [ ] West.
1373
1374It blew fresh for some hours after we put to sea and our Vessel made little more water than she formerly had done the 25 26 and 27 were exceeding pleasant and the Latter day was calm we were generaly in Latitude 55° 10' No. and about a degree to the westward of Distress cove on the latter part of the 27th it sprung up a light breeze at SE with this we stretched in shore and at Meredion the 28th I observed in Latitude 55° 43' No. in this part the fronteer of the coast appears to be a chain of Large liffty Isl[an]ds but the good weather did not continue long enough for us to pass in between them the weather came on thick with the wind at SE and we stood off to the Southward. 272
1375
1376The winds continued so advurce with such thick weather that it was the [ ] before we saw Washingtons Island 273 and at 6 PM a vast number of Natives men Women and Children came off and brought with them several sea otter skins we understood of them that their
1377
1378-- 96 --
1379was a large tribe not far off the weather was very thick hazey and we were but little distance from the land We soon saw their village from which they lanched twenty or thurty very large canoes and came off in great perade padleing off swiftly and singing a very agreable air. 274 1789. June. of those people were purchaced [139] to the amount of two hundred skins in a very fue moments for one chizle each 275 we bought all the skins they appeared to have by 10 in the evening when they returned to their Village for the night no doubt intending to bring off more in the morning but we did not stop but stood on to the southward the natives called their villag Custa it is situated in a sandy bay on the NW end of the Island 276 their Chiefs name is Cuneah and appears to be a very good old Fellow his wife was off and had vast authority over every person alongside 277 I was greved to leve them so soon, as it appeared to be the best place for skins that we had seen. The weather was now become so foggy that we could but seldem see the Land 278 the wind hung at SSE generaly on the 8th I observed in Lat. 53°8' No. and the Wind seemed more unsettled on the afternoon of the 9 Nearly Calm and it continued so all night Wednesday 10. at daybrake a light breeze sprung up at NW and we made sail along shore that trended SE b E. we had pass't a very considerable part of the
1380
1381-- 97 --
1382Island without having it in our power to view so accurately as I could have wished 279 at Noon I was in Latd. 52° 32' No. at time a place that bore the appearance of a Harbour bore NNW distance 8 Miles. I judge Custa 280 to be in Latitude 54° 15' No. and Longitude [ ] W but I had no observations to assurtain it to a surtinty the North entrance of the Straits that devides Washingtons Island from the Main 281 is in Latd. 54° 20' No. and Long. [ ] W but here to the southward the land has a far less hospitable appearance it Rises up into high steep mountains whose Rockey summits whare the Snow is off is barron of verdure and cast a very unpleasant aspect.
1383
1384Thursday the 11
1385
1386
1387
1388earley in the morning we were abrest an Inlet 282 that is in Latitude 52° 12' No. and Longitude [ ] this we were standing in for when we saw a Canoe paddleing out towards us this was an agreable surprize as we had aprehended this part of the Island was not inhabited. [140] we soon saw several others on the moove we stood into the Sound and saw the village on the SE part of a Bay a little behind a small Island 283 and nigh it appeared a good cove for our vessel to lay. Captain Gray sent the boat in to sound the place before he went in in the vessel the officer that went on the service reported the cove would answer very well for us to lay in a fue days We bore up and anchored in 14 f[atho]m Water with a hard bottom of Sand.
1389
1390A brisk trade was soon set on foot by Coya the Chief who bartered for all his Subjects, 284 and a number of Sea Otter skins were purchaced before night. Iron was of far less value with them than with those natives we were last with cloathing was most in demand these people had been visated by several navigaters they spoke distinctly
1391
1392-- 98 --
1393of Colinnet and Dunkin and they brought a pece of Paper that Informed us the NW American Schooner had been here May the 24th last. 285 This Sound was honoured with the name of Barrel sound in honour of our owner duering our tarrey hear I landed to take an excurtion in the woods when I met with a fortified Rock which I suppose in case of invasion is their place of refuge it was purpindicular about forty feet high the top was flat about twenty yards wide it was inacessable on all sides except by an oald rotten lader that was erected by its side this fort they call Touts 286 and when their northern neghbours come to molest them they put their Women and Children up thare while they fight the battle they say it is their custom to eat their vanquished enemies and said it was excellent food. the [141] natives brought us for sale a number of excellent hallibut and Boiled gulls eggs the intercourse with the natives while we lay in this Port was on the strictest Friendship they indeed pillaged aney little trifling thing they could find a good opertunity to take unobserved but as we took no rash meens with them it never interrupted our trade. 287 By this time we had stript the natives of allmost all the skins they were possessed of and we got in redeness to moove the first opertunity the weather and winds should give us. it had been very boisterous for several day with the winds strong from the southward this left so large a swell that when we attempted to geet out after making several bords we were neseseated to bear away under the lee of a large rock that lay in the mouth of the inlett and anchor in 50 f[atho]m water over a rockey bottom while we lay here I thought it a favourable oppertunity to view the sound nigher its head I took the boat and accompaneyed by one of the other Gentlemen went about six miles up but I found no convenient place for a ship to lay the water was every whare deep and the bottom rockey and not well sheltered I discovered that the
1394
1395-- 99 --
1396southern part of the Inlett was an Island seperated from the nother[n] Shore by a narrow rockey channel.
1397
1398It was quite calm untill about 3 in the morning when a very light breeze sprung up off the Land with this we weighed and stood out and by 5 AM were clear of the Land. we stood to the southward as the Shoar trended [142] which was rockey and dangerous the wind gradualy increesed to a fresh breeze at WNW. Off the south point of the Island in a SE direction lay several small Islands with a fue trees on them and ESE from these two Leagues lay several Reefs that brake with great rage. 288 but in times when the sea is more smooth I suppose the danger would lurk totaly consceled under the Surfice of the water the South extremity of Washingtons Island is in Latd. [ ] No. and Longitude [ ] 289 At Noon I observed in Latd. [ ] No. and Longitude [ ] W and made all sail on our passage for Nootka Sound. Had we not met with the misfortune of runing onshore our discouveries would have been very interesting but cramped as it was by that unforeseen accident we discovered that the straits of Adml. de font actualy exist 290 and I have but little doubt that they penetrate very far into the Continent the princaple enterence appeared to be in latitude [ ] a fue miles from Derby Sound tho' I believe all the Range of coast North of Juan de Fuca Straits as far North as we went is a vast chain of Islands and the entrances betwixt them may be taken for Straits Gulfs etca. 291 but when explored it will be found the coast of the continent has not yet been seen it is probable when that shall be penetrated too and explored, large rivers and Lakes may be found that may overlap the westren bounds of the Lakes that have their vent in our Eastren coast and perhaps Lakes are now discovered that is the sourse of Large navagable Rivers that emty themselves in the North Pacific Ocean. to survey this coast would be an allmost endless task tho' indispencably nesecery
1399
1400-- 100 --
1401to finish the geography of north America trading vessels to this coast will make considerable advances towards this but it never can be thuroughly done intill it is done at some national expence whose Commanders are uninterested by commerce. [143]
1402
1403We steered ESE from this cape for the Islands off Cape Ingraham 292 going about 5 Knots and at 5 AM we made the outwardmost of them ahead. The weather was thick and hazey and the breeze Fresh and at 6 PM we pass't Woody point 293 and at 10 PM we hove too for the night, but in the morning the wind grew light and it was two in the afternoon of the [June 17, 1789] 294 before we caught a Breeze which wafted us into Nootka sound when we pass't Friendly Cove I was surprised to find a fort on Hog Island. 295 the Spanish Ship was laying in the Cove with a Spanish Snow and an English Sloop 296 the spanish Ship fiered a gun to bring us too but not knowing how every thing was situated with respect to the spaniards and Captain Kendrick we thought it most prudent to stand up the sound to Mahwinah where Captain Kendrick Lay 297 we were borded by Captain Kendrick and Don Martenaz sometime before we got into the cove we found Mr. Hudson 298 the commander of the Sloop Princess Royal of London the Sloop we had seen at Uquot on a visate to Captain Kendrick as we arrived we were saluted by the Columbia which we returned.
1404
1405We had sailed several days and Captain Kendrick and Captain Douglass by laying at a considerable distance from each other had but little communication with each other but by letters which [were] on the most friendly footing when on the morning of the [5th] of
1406
1407-- 101 --
1408May they saw an Indion Canoe paddled by six naked natives coming towards them with great haste when she came alongside they found our Friend Culecum 299 in her with a letter from Captain Douglass to Captain Kendrick informing him that there was [144] a large ship in the offin standing into the sound Captain Kendrick accompanied by several of his officers set out to escort the Ship into the Harbour. Captain Douglass allso went out with his boat they were recieved by Don Martenaz with great attention he came into friendly cove and moor'd and seemed to live on a very friendly footing with Captain Douglass he paied Captain Kendrick a very formal visate and staied with him two or three days on his return to Uquot the St. Carlos arrived, the snow we saw in Hope Bay.
1409
1410Don martinaz now demanded Captain Douglass' papers 300 and from what pretence I know not said they were false and made the vessel his prize. this Snow tho' British property was under Portogeas coulers and had a portugee by the title of Capt. to clame them. the snow was immediately discharged of all her cargo and put in prepairation for a passage to St. Blass. the officer and Seamen of the Ephagena, were kept prisoners for several days when on a more critical examination of the ships papers it was found that they could not detain the vessel with propriety, and she was delivered up to the former commanders upon conditions that should the court of Spain demand her as a prize she was to be delivered up and as the Ship was in want of cordage cables sails and in short allmost every Nesecery that was proper on a passage of such duration with these Don Martenaz supplied them and took Bills on their owner and in part pay the Schooner NW American was to be delivered to him as soon as she should arrive every thing being settled thus Captain Douglass sailed for China. 301
1411
1412-- 102 --
1413
1414Vocabulary of Nootka Sound
1415302
1416NOOTKA ENGLISH
1417Tsawaak One
1418Utlah Two
1419Cutsah Three
1420Moo Four
1421Sucha Five
1422Noopoo Six
1423Attlepoo Seven
1424Attle a coalthz Eight
1425Tsaw a coalthz Nine
1426Haioo Ten
1427Note. When they count up to Ten, they begin again at one and count as follows:
1428Tsawcates Twenty
1429Cutsaak Thirty
1430Mooyaak Forty
1431Suchaak Fifty
1432Noopoak Sixty
1433Attlepoak Seventy
1434Attle a coathy auch Eighty
1435Tsawa coalthy auch Ninety
1436Haioo yauch One hundred
1437Note. They cannot count any higher than an Hundred.
1438Upitsaska the Head
1439Upsee oop Hair
1440Uppa pee ah Forehead
1441Casee Eyes
1442Ahie chee Eyebrows
1443Hatsamixamee Eyelash
1444Neetsah Nose
1445Ahah mas Cheek
1446Etluthsool Mouth
1447Choop Tongue
1448Chee chee chee Teeth
1449Tsewaap Chin
1450Apaxamah Beard
1451Cutsack a Garment
1452Tsecomits Neck
1453Ah upetso Arms
1454Cook anexo Hands
1455Papee Ear
1456Up ah tsoot Palm of the hand
1457Enah pulthz Back of the hand
1458Ehhah comitz Thumb
1459Coopayack First finger
1460Tiyee Middle finger
1461Oatso Ring Finger
1462Catt'ecah Finger nail
1463Klaptshomah Breast
1464Kla sa pee Shoulder
1465Tachah Belly
1466Kopatz Back
1467Ah up tsux Thigh
1468Klish tlinna Leg
1469Kahtlah to me Feet
1470Che che sugh to me Toes
1471Hysah Blood
1472Anne catsemah A mask ressembling a Quadrupeds head
1473Nooclootsamah A mask ressembling a Human face
1474Topulsheetle to Sneeze
1475Wasucsheetle to Cough
1476Ahsecho Cedar bark worn round the Head for ornament
1477Chamass Victuals
1478Nucksheetle to Drink
1479Ahoah to Eat
1480Chauch Fresh water
1481Tupulthz Salt water
1482Shucksheetle to Strike
1483Hoxup to Overset
1484Tahatsanoolthz a Knife
1485Chaha pah a Red fish [90]
1486Tenass
1487303
1488
1489a Child or small
1490-- 103 --
1491NOOTKA ENGLISH
1492Cleetanick a Ditto
1493Iacopes a Man
1494Winnapee Stay
1495Weltsheatle Go away
1496Clotuwah
1497304
1498
1499Paddle off
1500Chuckguo Come here
1501Tiyee
1502305
1503
1504a Chief
1505Ahco Here
1506Cap sheetle
1507306
1508
1509to rob by force or steal
1510Patcheetle to Give
1511Kaksabut to Kill
1512Suck quit chee to Bring
1513Enetsheetle Coming
1514Wakush ha well Terms of friendship
1515Cloosh
1516307
1517
1518Good
1519Peeshack
1520308
1521
1522Bad
1523Clyomee Give me more
1524Aye or ao Yes
1525Mischimmas Lower class of people
1526Macook
1527309
1528
1529to Barter
1530Nahnook to Sing
1531Hanook to be Angry
1532Sickeminnee Iron
1533Cheepokes Copper
1534Sumah Fish in general
1535Suhah Salmon
1536Cloosmit Herrins
1537Amanolthz Sardines
1538Mowich
1539310
1540
1541a Deer
1542Cloonimina A Moose
1543Wik atish I have not
1544Ayemahah I don't understand
1545Quotluck Sea Otter Skins
1546Siahhao a great way off
1547Hannas Nigh
1548Nass Day
1549Peeshackisnass Foul weather
1550Commatax
1551311
1552
1553I understand
1554Mamahtlee a Ship or Vessel
1555Na nah neich
1556312
1557
1558Let me see
1559Clack a miss Oil
1560Clack a mish ish Oily
1561Enicksee Wood in general
1562Mooxey Rocks
1563Choo coo Come here
1564Ushanick Make haste
1565Oxamah a Goose
1566Mustata a Bow
1567Seihatee an Arrow
1568Seitah an Arrow case
1569Tappahlah a Spear
1570Clehalthz a Matt
1571Qotseecahauch a Dancing apron cover'd with Deer's houghs
1572Cahtler Hand it
1573Mah Take it
1574Mamahlee Birds in general
1575Wassa Where
1576Uquot Friendly Cove
1577Clyoquot Wickananish's Harbour
1578Tashees a Village so called
1579Tashees a River so called
1580Copetee a Village so called
1581Tashee Door, Path etca.
1582Micklah Rain
1583Quiece Snow
1584Quemals Frost
1585-- 104 --
1586NOOTKA ENGLISH
1587Siapokes a Hat or Cap
1588Clootsmah a Woman
1589Toque Ornament for the Ear
1590Aneetle a Dog
1591Cahsheetle Dead
1592Cepotts a Canoe
1593Tequinnee a War Canoe
1594Tupsheetle to Sink
1595Ocquappee a Paddle
1596Macquinna
1597Callicum
1598313
1599
1600Shot by order of Don Martinez July 1789
1601Wickananish
1602Hannappee
1603Cloopananish
1604Oomees Names of Chiefs
1605Tatoocheatecus
1606Clackokenah
1607Mannakin
1608Nashnachook
1609Nooche
1610Wahclassemah
1611Qaohommes Paint
1612Maas a Town or Village
1613Mah hah tee a House
1614Ah chucklah what's your name
1615Mic took ish Old
1616Homees Cedar Wood
1617Wicktup a hard red wood
1618Iacopes clyomaas a Man of another Town
1619Toohook Frightened
1620Chimmis a Bear
1621Etscola a Mouse
1622Ahyuck a great many
1623Koo Ice
1624Malthzlah Cold
1625Cheetasheetle to Shiver
1626Ahietso a small root they dig early in Spring, a leaf like clover
1627Kleet see oop a Root like Sassaparilla, tastes like a Carolina Potatoe
1628Cleesook White
1629Tubcook Black or Blue
1630Clahoke Red
1631Wah kee tuck Green or Yellow [91]
1632Opahcoostahah Sunrise
1633Opatutlish Sunset
1634Topesheetle tomorrow
1635Waaeitch Sleep
1636Cleethach a Bear skin
1637Queequick a Raccoon Skin
1638Cheetlechee Cut
1639Tee tlee tee Rub
1640Cloopah Warm
1641Uk kuck What's that?
1642Unnah Only
1643Clooak a Beard
1644Winnah Voyagers
1645Tumiss Charcoal
1646Cleesheetle to Write
1647Cheeteeuch a Saw or file
1648Cheemah a War Knife
1649Tacoalthz Sit down
1650Clackeeshueetle Get up
1651Clah Now
1652Ahnah Friend hark ye
1653Tsahoak Sour
1654Mahak Smarts
1655Matchelclat a Town so called
1656-- 105 --
1657NOOTKA ENGLISH
1658Oona how many
1659Klummah a Wooden Image
1660Koalthz a Slave
1661Nuche Land
1662Suchass Trees
1663T'sitsa anna to Talk
1664Wahwatleacoalthz to Scold
1665Noowahickso Father
1666Oo mah exo Mother
1667Mahek'leuts Son
1668Clootsutz Daughter
1669Clootchmoop Sister
1670Clootchah
1671314
1672
1673Wife
1674Cathlatick Brother
1675Hah hulthz a Cover or Inlet
1676Opulthz Iacopes Sun
1677Opulthz Clootsmah Moon
1678Tahtoose Stars
1679Cheetuqualish Night
1680Ehulsheetle Knock
1681Hoconic a Chest
1682Oquilth make
1683Cheeminnee a Fish hook
1684Tah ah tee Fish hooks of different kinds
1685Malthz a Horn
1686Mowickmalthz a Deers Horn
1687Ishl so gottee a Pearl shell
1688Iyelth a Feather
1689See e sook a Grass fishing line
1690Tsemah a Net
1691Clah paat a Cedar bark bag
1692Mutcheetle to Bite
1693Neekeeneeco to Scratch
1694Cutsheetle to Pinch
1695Yetscah yetscah to Kick
1696Chut e chut to Shove
1697Clicksheetle to Beat
1698Ah wayatle Enough
1699Clakeeso a Boy's name
1700Aptsheetle to Hide
1701Ahack to Cry
1702Cleewhoah to Laugh
1703Mamook
1704315
1705
1706to Work
1707Tahielt Sick
1708Chimmetah Well
1709Callichahmah an Egg
1710Quo co quo like this
1711Ita ita a Falsehood
1712Heia Wind
1713Cosha Smoak
1714Yahuch pain
1715Yahuch ish painfull
1716Hycheenah a Cockell
1717Oyelthz to Dance
1718Ah wattanee a White headed Eagle
1719Suwah Your
1720Seeyah me [92]
1721Suquit't take hold
1722Tta sheetle Let go
1723Wah sheetle Throw away
1724Mooshsaap Shut
1725Quosaap Open
1726Chicksemah a Mast
1727Nah'ah Hark or listen
1728Seeyah Opoolthz I'm deaf
1729Toosh koa a Cod fish
1730Poa a Halibut
1731Quo ah miss Herrin spawn
1732Chitcoak an Instrument to catch Herrin
1733Hye yeh a Snake
1734Pilthz lah too small
1735Clahomitza a Cousin
1736Taugh a mis Spittle
1737Taughsheetle Spit
1738Noo ak sheetle to Swallow
1739Ak ah lapso What seek you?
1740-- 106 --
1741NOOTKA ENGLISH
1742Ahyemahahcheetz I don't remember
1743Son a pulthz Kelp
1744Cliptsheetle to Wash
1745Cleatsheetle to Shoot an Arrow
1746Cloos' isht Smoak'd Herrins
1747Eneatle Come in
1748Ena shaas Shall I come in
1749Ah loop Wild cellery
1750Tootootch Thunder
1751Clahsheetle Lightning
1752Cutsoominnee Hail
1753Sheelah a Root
1754Ahchispah this side
1755Quispah t'other side
1756Quispite each side
1757Nah chook Look
1758Chanee I can't see
1759Nut soo I see
1760Way yuck Who
1761Chee cheetle to Pull
1762Chatchatah to Divide
1763Anneekish to Bend
1764Clacko Thank you
1765Cock a mahack a small fish or bream
1766Noopoot waietch Last night
1767Isuks Leeks
1768Ahmeetle tomorrow
1769Clyother Another
1770Mah'ahk a Whale
1771Nootcheeuck a Sling to throw stones
1772Cocoobsooiechuck a Ring
1773Ameteeshee'tl Tell or told
1774I'tak tish coaz Lying fellow
1775Wemasish Asham'd
1776Athy Dark
1777Ahcoathly Lend
1778Why Then
1779Waugh ah nee a Land Otter
1780Mookwhoah to Boil
1781Ahchiscahwolthza Move this way
1782Nutsocoalthz Move that way
1783Tsamaha Silence
1784Toohwhoahsoolth I'm tired
1785Haaspeyaksheetle to Yawn
1786Ah ah coak What is that
1787Cloo quee tee Broad
1788Anne kee tee sah Narrow
1789Amm'aok a Calm
1790Cowilth to Steal
1791Oyea Presently
1792Shewitsowan Maquinna's Son
1793Haweltpiltso Maquinna's Daughter
1794Kaashookonook Hannapees Son
1795Wesuck Glad
1796Susuck to abuse with bad Language
1797Mah wah Return
1798Quotcheetle
1799316
1800
1801Break
1802Cap cut see Give me to eat
1803Ahomah Good to eat [93]
1804Ahmee Yesterday
1805Clootsmuck a Wife taken in the Town the man lives
1806Sahsintz a humming Bird
1807Ya'ak Love
1808Cah meetuck a Snare to catch Geese
1809Hoh oh yeh to Change
1810Commatacheet'l I remember
1811Ish ish sha to Chew
1812Sedgkas a Comb
1813Ammoot a Bone
1814Tsiscomiss the lean of a Whale
1815Claak Whale blubber
1816Teetch alive
1817Waw waw
1818317
1819
1820you said
1821Mattsquinna a Fly
1822Setah the Tail of anything
1823Mist sheetle to Smell
1824Climmichsheetle Daylight
1825Ackea lammaak What have you been doing
1826-- 107 --
1827NOOTKA ENGLISH
1828Moochitch Put on
1829Hah nah toot'l Pull off
1830Wik hah micklah Does it not rain?
1831Ao ayuckish Yes, very much
1832Cloopahish nass It's a fine warm day
1833Commetcook to Walk
1834Yetsook to Run
1835Qoutheegish Heavy
1836U wheesish Light
1837Tak'sheetle to Feel
1838Copecheetle to Point
1839Mietch hy Both alike
1840Apuksheetle to Hug
1841Hah welt tut'l a Youth
1842Hah got'l a Young Woman
1843Tanas
1844318
1845
1846a Boy or Girl
1847Mictook Iacopes an old man
1848Mictook Clootsmah an old woman
1849Clah o quilth Night before last
1850Ah mee ahhy Last night
1851Hash coal
1852Matchetlat
1853319
1854
1855Manoish
1856Otsoosutt
1857320
1858
1859Names of the Towns which they trade with to the Southward of Nootka Sound
1860Kitsmahat
1861Clyoqot
1862Ut looetlet
1863Clyees uh
1864Tootooch
1865321
1866
1867Uahtee North wind
1868Toox elth South wind
1869Toochee East wind
1870Ashlithet West wind
1871Keeshack Crooked
1872Ky a a Take care
1873Ah choo chee to Stutter
1874Ah chukes tick What do you call it
1875Poo all yal too I'm sleepy
1876Tloo ah tluttle I forget
1877Hemucks Deer's Tallow
1878Tsistoob Twine or String
1879Tyee sum a Large rope
1880Oshtock Work
1881Wee ee chit'l I am sorry
1882Weektock Hazy
1883Shuma athat
1884Noocho tlat
1885322
1886
1887Ahatesut
1888323
1889
1890Che neckenet Names of the Towns which they visit and trade with to the Northward of Nootka Sound [94]
1891Otluckchaal
1892Kyuquot
1893Chee ah clee sutt
1894324
1895
1896Cly ish hut
1897Qushkeemoowhoat
1898Hiesekackomilth January
1899Weeyackomilth February
1900Hiakolmilth March
1901Enuckhechetermilth April
1902Quahkermilth May
1903Tahahtakahmilth June
1904Sahtsmilah July
1905Eneecoresamilth August
1906Nahalth September
1907Cheecakomilth October
1908Mahmee exso November
1909Cathlatick December
1910Moot shittle Flood tide
1911Hah utle Ebb tide
1912-- [111] --
1913
1914Miscellaneous Papers Relating to the First Voyage of the 'Columbia'
1915Orders given Captain John Kendrick of the ship Columbia for a voyage to the Pacific Ocean, 1787
1916325
1917326Sir:
1918
1919THE ship Columbia and sloop Washington being completely equipped for a voyage to the Pacific ocean and China, we place such confidence in you as to give you the entire command of this enterprise. It would be impossible upon a voyage of this nature to give with propriety very binding instructions, and such is our reliance on your honor, integrity and good conduct, that it would be needless at any time. You will be on the spot, and as circumstances turn up you must improve them; but we cannot forbear to impress on your mind our wish and expectation that the most inviolable harmony and friendship may be cultivated between you and the natives, and that no advantages may be taken of them in trading, but that you endeavor by honest conduct to impress upon their minds a friendship for Americans. . . .
1920
1921If you make any fort or improvement of land upon the coast, be sure you purchase the soil of the natives, and it would not be amiss if you purchased some advantageous tract of land in the name of the owners, if you should let the instrument of conveyance bear every authentic mark the circumstances will admit of. . . . You will constantly bear in mind that no trade is to be allowed on the coast, on any pretence whatever, but for the benefit of the owners. . . . You are strictly enjoined not to touch at any part of the Spanish dominions on the western continent of America, unless driven there by some unavoidable accident, in which case you will stay no longer than is absolutely necessary, and while there be careful to give no offence
1922
1923-- 112 --
1924to any of the subjects of his Catholic Majesty, and if you meet with any subjects of any European prince, you are to treat them with friendship and civility.
1925
1926The certificate you have from the French and Dutch consuls you will make use of if you meet with any ships of those nations, and you will pay them every respect that is due to them.
1927
1928The sea letters from Congress and this State you will also show on every proper occasion; and although we expect you will treat all nations with respect and civility, yet we depend you will suffer insult and injury from none without showing that spirit which will ever become A FREE AND INDEPENDENT American.
1929
1930John Kendrick to Joseph Barrell
1931Thursday November 15th 1787
1932
1933On board the Ship Columbia at
1934
1935anchor in English Road in Isle May
1936
1937Joseph Barrell Esqr.
1938
1939Sir
1940
1941I ARRIVED here after a passage of forty two Days with the Washington in company, we are all in good health and high spirits, Our Ship sails very well, 327 is a good Sea Boat, and very tight -- We have got plenty of fresh stock on board and shall sail this Day for St. Jago [Santiago] to fill our Water, from that place I shall Write you more fully 328 -- Please to present my Compliments to the Gentlemen Owners and blieve me
1942
1943Sir, to be with esteem
1944
1945Your very humble servant
1946
1947John Kendrick
1948
1949-- 113 --
1950
1951Memorandum of Monies Paid on the Ship Columbia, [September 27, 1787?]
1952Copy of Advanced Wages per Articles
1953
1954
1955-- 114 --
1956
1957John Kendrick's Instructions to Robert Gray
1958on Board Ship Columbia Lying in Britts harbour in falklands Islans
1959
1960CAPT. Robart Gray as you have the Command of the Sloop Washington my orders is that you Sail with the Columbia and do all in your power to Keep Company with her But Should you get Seperated from her By Bad weather or any other axerdent What Ever you air to proseed on your voige Round Cape horn in to the pacific ocan and then Stand to the Northward as far as the Lattd. 49° 36' North and Longitude of 126° 42' West from the Meridion of London their you will find a harbour By the Name of Nootka Sound on the West Side of North america. Should you want wood or water after you have arived in the pacific ocean I advise Stoping at Masafuero in Lattd. 33° 45' South and Longitude 80° 46' west from the Meridion of London. Should the Weather Be So Bad that you Cannot get a Surply at Masafuero you must go to Juan fernandes But take great Care not to put your Self in the power of the Spaniads If possibal to avoide it. When you Stand to the Northward from these Islands you must Not Come nigher to the Continant of america then Seventy or Eighty Leagues till you get thrue the trade Wind into the varibel on the Coast of Californa on account of the indraft of Wind that Blowes in on the Coast their air many Small Island Lying nearly in our fair Way from Juan fernandes to the Coast of New albion therefore a good Lookout must Be Ceept at Sum of these Island I make no Dout But Surplys may Be got after your arival at Nootka Sound I would have you purchase as much furs as possibal of the Natives and in perticuler the Sea otters But not Refuse any Should you git five hundered Sea otters Skins and other furs in perpotion the first Season I would have you proseed from thence to Macao in China and their inquire for Letters Directed to me or your Self and then follow the orders you Receve from them Butt Should you not git the Number of Skins mentined I would have you Stay at Nootka or Sum other harbour on the Coast of america all winter By all means and in the Spring If you find the trade not good at Nootka or their abouts to proseed to the Northward as far as Cook-River But I would have you vissit the Coast as
1961
1962-- 115 --
1963you pass a Long in Ever place whare you think it Safe and try for trade I would have you treet the Natives with Respect whare Ever you go Cultivate frind Ship with them as much as possibel and take Nothing from them But what you pay them for according to a fair agreement and not Suffer your peopel to affrom them or treet them Ill and allways Remember that their is no trade to Be made Butt for the Benifet of the owners and Should it Be in your power to Catch Sea otters with the helpe of your traps or any orther way it must Be for the Bennifit of the owner of Ship Columbia and Sloop Washington When you arive at Macao Should you not fine Letters Loged their then you must apply to Messrs. Shaw and Randall at Canton and If they have the Consignments of Ship Clombia and Sloop Washington then follow their orders But Should they have no orders from the owners of Said Ship and Sloop or from me then you must Sell to the Best advantague you Can and Should you have ocasion for assistance you may vally on Said Shaw and Randall for their advice or assistance after you have Sold what Ever you have got on the Coast of america in China Lay out your money in Such goods as you think Be Most Sailabel in america and take the proper Season to Return to Boston in america By the way of the Cape of good hoop.
1964
1965[John Kendrick]
1966
1967John Kendrick to Joseph Barrell
1968On board the Ship Columbia
1969
1970Cumberland Bay, Juan fernandes
1971
1972May 28th 1788
1973
1974Joseph Barrell Esqr.
1975
1976Sir
1977
1978I HAVE the pleasure to inform you of our safe arrival at Juan fernandes in the Pacific Ocean after a fatigueing passage of eighty six Days from Faulkland's Islands, and the misfortune of parting with the Sloop Washington on the first of April -- We are all in health and our Ship sea worthy -- I have only an oppertunity of a
1979
1980-- 116 --
1981few moments to write, which I hope will be a sufficient apology for not being more explicite.
1982
1983I have the honour to be
1984
1985Sir, with esteem
1986
1987Your humble Servant
1988
1989John Kendrick
1990
1991P.S. The Sloop Washington has Orders to Stop at Massafuera, which induces me to think that she is safe.
1992
1993John Kendrick to Robert Gray
1994[March 11, 1789?]
1995
1996Capt. Robert Gray
1997
1998Sir
1999
2000The Sloop Washington of which you air Commander Being ready for Sea you are requested to Sail the first fair Wind and to procede to Clyoquat in Latt. 49° 15' North and their Remain till after the Next new moon But Should you not Be abel to make trad in that time I would have you to proceed on your Cruse to the South ward along the Coast But not to the South ward of Latt. 45°00' North and make all the trade you Can for Sea otter Skins But Remember that you must Return hear By the Last of Next may with out fail to Receve my farther orders Should you not find trade according to our Expectations you will Return Sooner and Should you Be Separated from me By any means that you think you Shall not Be abel to join me a gain on the Coast of America you will follow your former In Structions you Receved from me
2001
2002[John Kendrick]
2003
2004-- 117 --
2005
2006Account of Ship Chandlery, etc., Supplied the Washington 1787
2007Octr. 2 To 1 pair Bellows
20081 singnal Lanthorn
20091 pump Bolt
20102 Chizells 1 and 2 Inch
20111 Gouge
20121 Morticing ditto
20131 Orger
20141 pair pinchers
20151 Keg Oil
2016Novr. 15 7 Cheese
20171 Saw
20181 bundle pencils
20191 Barr lead
20203 Saws
20211 Quoil 15 thread Rigging
2022Decr. 15 4 lb. Twine
202319 8 Cartridge Boxes
20241 Chizell
20251 Gouge
202616 files
20271788
2028Feby. 9 1½ lb. Twine
20297½ pint Jacks
2030Decr. 2 6 Case Knives
203150 lb. Tobacco
20321789
2033Mar. 13 12 files
203436 Gimbletts
20356 file Steels
2036-- 118 --
2037
2038John Kendrick to Don Estevan Josß Martinez
2039Nootka Sound
2040
20418 May Anno Dom. 1789
2042
2043Don Estephen Joseph Martinez
2044
2045Commander of his most Catholick Majesties Ship Princessa
2046
2047Sir:
2048
2049IN answer to your request how I came to be riding at anchor in Nootka Sound belonging to the King of Spain I wou'd inform you that in the month of September 1788 I arriv'd on this Coast on discovery and anchored in the Cove Uqot on the Western entrance of this Sound haveing prior to my arrival sprung the Head of my Miz[ze]nmast, and in a Gale from the NE my Rudder receiv'd some considerable Dammage, likewise my Stern post became lose, to repair these Defects and recover my men the most of which were sick with the scurvy and two actually Died with the Disease 329 a few days before my arrival, I was Infallibly oblig'd to anchor Finding the natives Inofensive and a good Harbor to repair my ship which had been then near 12 months from Boston the Season being Far Advanc'd I was induc'd to remain the Winter 330 and proceed to the Northd. in the Spring follow[in]g which is the present and now as you may Observe we are getting our Ship in readiness for Sea with all possible dispatch 331 and as soon as this is accomplish'd shall depart from the port 332 for myself and Officers who's names are here unto Jointly Affix'd
2050
2051I have the Honor to asure You
2052
2053I am very respectfully
2054
2055Your Most Obedient and Very Humble Servant
2056
2057[John Kendrick]
2058
2059-- 119 --
2060
2061John Kendrick to Don Estevan Josß Martinez
2062May 12th [1789]
2063
2064Don Estephen Jos. Martinez
2065
2066Com[mande]r of His most Catholic majesties Ship Princessa
2067
2068Sir
2069
2070YOURS of the present date 333 is now laying before me and the Contents Noted, I observe with pleasure you are satisfied with my Answer relative to my Ship, with respect to my Sloop she being ready for sea the 2d of May that is the present month I thought best to employ her on discovery to the Northward of this port particularly to explore the Streights of Admiral De Fonte likewise if possible to procure Hoops to replace the Water Casks I made mention to you the Natives stole from me during the last Winter 334 holding in Idea this wou'd be employing her advantageously while the Ship was getting ready
2071
2072I have the Honor to Remain
2073
2074Sir Your
2075
2076[John Kendrick]
2077
2078John Kendrick to Don Estevan Josß Martinez
2079May 16th [1789]
2080
2081Don Estephen J. Martinez
2082
2083Commander of His most Catholic Majesties Ship Princessa
2084
2085Dear Sir
2086
2087I THIS moment receiv'd a Letter Handed me by a man of Capt. Arrows 335 Boat which I take to be the Blacksmith by what I can understand by him you want some Iron work Done and if that should be the Case I will have it done for you with all possible dispatch that I can I hold myself in readiness to serve you in any and
2088
2089-- 120 --
2090every thing in my power 336 but as to the Letter it is so unintelligible as to the English that I can make nothing of it.
2091
2092I have the Honor to Remain Sir
2093
2094Your Devoted Servant
2095
2096John Kendrick
2097
2098John Kendrick to Joseph Barrell
2099Nootka Sound July 13th 1789
2100
2101Joseph Barrell Esqr.
2102
2103Sir
2104
2105AN oppertunity unexpectedly offers 337 which affords me the pleasure to inform you and the Gentlemen of the Comp[an]y of my arrival in this Sound on the month of Septem[be]r last, 338 found riding at Anchor the Sloop Washington Capt. Gray whom I parted with coming round Cape Horn on the first April previous, 339 the season being so far advanced I found it necessary that both Vessels should Winter here.
2106
2107The Sloop has made two Cruizes 340 and is now ready to accompany the Ship to the Northd. part of the Coast which I intend Cruizing the Season and from thence proceed to China where I shall follow your further Instructions, and inform you perticularly of the Success of the Voyage, which I am sorry is not by any means equal to your expectations when we left Boston 341 -- shall leave this port on the morrow.
2108
2109This will be forwarded you by the goodness of Don Estephen Joseph Martinez, Commodore of His Most Catholic Majesty's Squadron in these Seas, he has taken possession of this Sound, and
2110
2111-- 121 --
2112has orders to take possession from the Spanish settlements to Cook's River. 342
2113
2114I have only to add that I have all the people which I brot from Boston except Mr. Jno. Nutting who was unfortunately drowned 343 -- and the Doct[o]r and Mr. Woodruff which probably you have been inform'd off previous to this and that Captn. Gray with the Gentlemen desire to join me in respects to you and the Gentlemen of the Comp[an]y.
2115
2116After which Sir
2117
2118I subscribe myself
2119
2120Your and the Comp[an]ys
2121
2122Obedient Humble Servant
2123
2124John Kendrick
2125
2126John Kendrick to the President of Congress
2127Nootka Sound 13 July 1789
2128
2129His Excellency
2130
2131President of Congress
2132
2133United States of America
2134
2135Sir
2136
2137AT the Island of Juan Fernandes 344 I took the liberty of enclosing a letter to your Excellencys care, and I must now beg leave to intrude further on your goodness to forward the enclosed as directed, The Extream distance these letters have to pass through the spanish dominions renders it Necessary to direct them to some public Carachter to insure their safety, this I trust will sufficiently Apologize to your Excellency for the liberty I have taken on this occasion.
2138
2139I have the Honor to be Your Excellencys
2140
2141Most Obedient and devoted Humble Servant
2142
2143John Kendrick
2144
2145-- 122 --
2146
2147Robert Gray to Joseph Barrell
2148Nootka Sound July 13th 1789
2149
2150FROM the time of leaving Boston, we had good weather and excellent winds to St. Jago, where we lay forty one days, which was thirty six more than I thought was necessary, and after Sailing from St. Jago, very little care taken to make a quick passage to Cape Horn, which has occasioned me to suffer very much in getting round Cape Horn, in the month of March and April, in the worst season to attempt it, but all this I have mentioned over and often to the Commodore at St. Jago, but all to no purpose, he being very absolute and would not hear to reason.
2151
2152I had the good luck to part Company the first day of April in a severe gale and thick snow storm to the Southward and Westward, of Cape Horn, which enabled me to make the best of my way along, and I made the Coast six weeks sooner by being alone, but being so late on the Coast, entirely lost the season, it being the 2d of August I made New Albion in the Latitude of 41° 36' North, and Cruised the Coast to Nootka Sound, in the Latitude of 49° 33' North, Longitude 126° West, but with little success, where I arrived the 16th of September, and found Two English Snows and one Schooner under Portuguise Colours, 345 who treated me very well on some accounts, but would not take any Letters for me to China, which was worse than any thing else, they being afraid my Letters would injure them and hurt their Trade the next season, for they had made a good Summers work this Season.
2153
2154September 21st arrived the Columbia from Juan Fernandes, all well on board, except a small touch of the Scurvy, I being then nearly ready for Sea, which I intended to went to Macao, in China in case the ship had not arriv'd here; there to get some articles of Trade which I had not on board, that suits best on this Coast; which in case I had done it I should have made the best voyage that ever was made on this Coast, but Capt. Kendrick's arriving depriv'd me of my intentions, and acting myself he thinking it best to winter here, and wait for the Spring to open, and cruise the Coast as early
2155
2156-- 123 --
2157as possible, which I began the 16 March, and have made two Cruises with considerable success, considering the way that I was sent, but not half equal to going the way that I wanted to; which has since appeared to us; 346 the Columbia has rid it out here all the time, but now means to sail in Company with me to the Northward, where we shall be able to cruise about one Month 347 and then for the want of Provisions leave the Coast; We are now in good friendship with the Spanish Commodore and expects to sail in a few days, who has taken possession here and erected a fine fort, and claims this Coast, who I think, has the best right of any Nation, they have stopped three English vessels here, that came from Macao in China, to take possession of this Coast and fortify here, but they being of very little force are obliged to give themselves up, and go to St. Blass for a Tryal. I have nothing more to inform you except the voyage will not turn out to the Owners expectation, all for the want of a nimble leader, so I conclude and remain Your affectionate Friend and ever well wisher
2158
2159Robert Gray
2160
2161P.S. I have to request you to call upon Capt. Hatch, and the Gentlemen of the Company and present my best respects to them, together with Mr. Howe's and inform them that as we have orders not to write them, we must refer them to Capt. Kendricks Letter for all information relative to the voyage.
2162
2163R. G.
2164
2165-- 124 --
2166
2167John B. Treat to Samuel Breck
2168Nootka Sound July 14th 1789
2169
2170348 Samuel Breck Esqr
2171
2172Sir
2173
2174ON the 22d of September last we made the long-looked for North-west Coast of America; and the next day arrived in Nootka Sound where we joined our Consort 349 after an absence of near six months. her Officers, and men were all in good health but hade suffered some with the scurvy, which disorder became prevalent among our Ships Company the latter part of the passage but fortunately we lost only two of them (foreigners) who entered with us at the Isld St Jago, 350 and our Astronomer, 351 who being insane threw himself overboard and was lost. The most important news on our side the Continent is the arrival of his Catholick Majesty's Ships of war, la Princessa, and la St Carlos which took possession here in May last and are now fortyfying with the greatest diligence four other arrivals have since taken place, three of which are Captured: two of them under Portugueze colours, 352 and the other an English Snow: 353 Commanded by J. Collinett, whose orders were to establish a factory at this place. this will undoubtedly occasion Some altercation between the two Powers, particularly Should She be condemned at St Blaz, for which she sails to morrow, and permission is Obtained for us to depart in twenty four hours after. Both vessells are now in good order, the Columbia not having been out of port, and the Washington thoroughly repaired after beating several hours upon the rocks. 354 the remainder of the season will be spent examining the Coast to the Northward and probably we shall
2175
2176-- 125 --
2177leave it the Begining of October, 355 and Sail for China, touching at the Sandwich Islands to recruit our provisions. Captain Metcalf is daily expected here from Macao, in a Snow belonging to New York: 356 It is hoped he will be more fortunate than to come in [he] may not receive the indulgences we have experien[ced from] Don Estephen Joseph Martinez Commander at this place A Sail now in the Offing makes me conclude, adding we have hitherto, and still continue to enjoy an uncommon share of good health: and may you, with your family and friends receive the same Blessing, is the ardent wish
2178
2179of Sir Your Humble Servant
2180
2181Jno B Treat
2182
2183July 15. the Sail described yesterday is the Princess Royal an English Sloop, Consort to the Snow she left this place ten days since but imprudently returning for intelligence, has her flag shifted, 357 and men made prisoners -- how long it will detain us we cannot tell but shall be extremely happy to take our leave.
2184
2185Inventory of Skins
2186Harbour Clyoquot July 28th 1789
2187
2188Invoice of Sundry Sea Otter Skins and others Ship'd on board the Ship Columbia by Jno. Kendrick Esqr.
2189
2190700 Sea Otter Skins
2191
2192From No. 1 to 34 Bundles of 10 pieces each.
2193
2194No. 1 17 lb. wt. Do. pieces
21952 15 Do. Do. Do.
21963 14 Do. Do. Do.
21974 17 Do. Do. Do.
21985 19 Do. Do. Do.
21996 11 Do. Do. Do.
22007 14 Do. Do. Do.
22018 14 Do. Do. Do.
22029 10 Do. Do. Do.
220310 10 Do. Do. Do.
2204-- 126 --
220511 17 Do. Do. Do.
220612 12 Do. Do. Do.
220713 10 Do. Do. Do.
220814 12 Do. Do. Do.
220915 10 Do. Do. Do.
221016 10 Do. Do. Do.
221117 12 Do. Do. Do.
221218 12 Do. Do. Do.
221319 13 Do. Do. Do.
221420 10 Do. Do. Do.
221521 11 Do. Do. Do.
221622 13 Do. Do. Do.
221723 13 Do. Do. Do.
221824 11 Do. Do. Do.
221925 10 Do. Do. Do.
222026 11 Do. Do. Do.
222127 11 Do. Do. Do.
222228 10 Do. Do. Do.
222329 7 Do. Do. Do.
222430 13 Do. Do. Do.
222531 12 Do. Do. Do.
222632 13 Do. Do. Do.
222733 12 Do. Do. Do.
222834 12 Do. Do. Do.
222935 48 Do. pieces unnumber'd
223036 18 Do. Do. Do.
223137 24 Beaver Skins
223238 6 Land Otters 3 Martins
2233Robert Gray to John Kendrick
2234[Canton] Novr. 21st 1789
2235
2236Captn. Jno. Kendrick
2237
2238Sir
2239
2240IMEDIATELY upon our arrival at Macao we made applycation for Letters lodged for you agreably to instructions relative to Ship Columbia which you will receive, the purport of which we
2241
2242-- 127 --
2243have attended to and have consigned the business to Messrs. Shaw & Randall, who's advice it is, that you by no means attempt to bring your Sloop to Canton, but that you at all events dispose of vessel 358 and Cargo at Macao, for Cash and come up to Canton to invest it in such articles as you wou'd wish and return to America, this is the only practicable method you can adopt which may be accomplish'd by the assistance of Mr. McIntire to whom Messrs. Shaw & Randall has wrote on the subject -- Should you bring your vessel here the Expense will amo[un]t to at least 2500 Doll[a]rs 359 and would involve you in the greatest difficulty.
2244
2245We are Sir
2246
2247Yours etca.
2248
2249[Robert Gray]
2250
2251Bill for the Columbia's Supplies
2252Owners of Ship Columbia Dr.
2253
2254To Wyqua Compradore for Supplies
2255
2256
2257
2258-- 128 --
2259
2260Robert Gray to Joseph Barrell
2261Canton Decemr. 18th 1789
2262
2263Joseph Barrell Esqr. and Company
2264
2265Gentlemen
2266
2267I HAVE the pleasure to inform you of my safe arrival at Canton in the Ship Columbia from the NW Coast of America in the Lattd. 49°9' N. the 30th July, where Captn. Kendrick thought best to change Vessells 360 and take all the property on board the Sloop Washington and Cruize in her himself on the Coast, and for me to make the best of my way to the Sandwhich Islands, there to procure sufficient provisions to carry us to Canton, our provisions on the Coast were not sufficient for both Vessells to Cruize the Season out was the reason of our seperation.
2268
2269-- 129 --
2270I had four weeks passage from the Coast to the Sandwhich Islands, where I lay three weeks and salted five Punchions of Pork and took on deck One hundred and fifty live hogs -- our passage from the Islands to Canton was nine weeks, where I arrived on the 17th Novr. found fourteen Americans and about seventy Ships of other Nations -- I received Instructions with Mr. Howe (whome Captn. Kendrick appointed to assist me) to value on Messrs. Shaw & Randall which we have done on Mr. Randall Mr. Shaw being absent. 361
2271
2272The Cargo consists of seven hundred skins and three hundred peices which is not yet disposed of, but expect will be in a few days -- I am getting the Ship in readiness in order to receive a Cargo of Bohea teas for Boston, and expect to Sail by the last of Jany.
2273
2274The Ship is much out of repair and the expenses will I fear exceed your expectation but rest assured that nothing Shall be wanting in attention to render the expences as light as posible 362 -- when I parted with Captn. Kendrick he was well and all on board the Washington the Sloop in good order and better found than when She saild from Boston, haveing on board twenty men, and am in hopes they will make a good Cruize, having provisions to Cruize two months 363 -- but Captn. Kendrick never informd wether he intended to come to Canton or not in case he meet with no accident, which makes it a matter entirely uncertain, in case he does not arrive this month I shall conclude he means to Stay another season or has meet with some accident.
2275
2276The Spaniards have taken possession of all the Coast and fortyfiing in many places, they have taken possession of a Snow and Schoo[ne]r under portugueas Colours and have captured a Brig and Sloop belonging to English merchants in this place and sent them to St. Blass for tryal. 364
2277
2278-- 130 --
2279Our expedition Gentlemen will not be equal to your expectations nor is there any American Ships here but will make bad Voyages -- I have only to add that Mr. Howe joins me in best wishes for your health and prosperity, and to Subsribe myself
2280
2281Gentlemen
2282
2283Your Obedient devoted
2284
2285and very humble Servant
2286
2287Robt. Gray
2288
2289Messrs. Shaw & Randall to Joseph Barrell
2290Canton Decemr. 18th 1789
2291
2292Joseph Barrell Esqr.
2293
2294Sir
2295
2296WE have the honor to inform you of the safe arrival here of the Ship Columbia commanded by Captn. Gray who with Mr. Howe has valued upon our house for the transaction of their Business, we shall therefore make every exertion to give the Vessell a full return Cargo to America but her funds will not admit her carrying home any other than bohea tea -- Mr. Howe will write you more particularly.
2297
2298We are Sir with esteem
2299
2300Your Obedient Servants
2301
2302Shaw & Randall
2303
2304Memorandum of the Cargo of the Ship Columbia at Canton
23051790 January 4th Our Cargo went to Town in a Chop Boat guarded by 8 Men with Muskets and the Captain -- the Cargo consisted of 105 bundles of Skins ten in each bundle one large Chest containing 96 Skins 365 one Ginn Case Mark'd
2306
2307
2308containing 10 Skins one hog Skin Trunk mark'd
2309
2310containing 20 Skins one Small Chest marked
2311
2312containing 19 Skins one bundle marked
2313
2314containing 7 Skins one
2315-- 131 --
2316bundle marked x containing 13 Skins -- Jany. 19 the Boat went to Town after water James Jones carried a Skin under his Jacket to Town for Mr. Ingraham. 366
2317
2318From the Massachusetts Centinel, January 16, 1790
2319367THE Concerned of the Ship Columbia, and Sloop Washington, bound on a voyage to Kamschatka, have received letters from the Governour of a Portuguese island, near the mouth of the river Canton, in China; by which he informed them, that the Sloop had been spoken with on the back part of the Continent of America -- and that when they should arrive at his island, they should be treated with friendship etc.
2320
2321Richard S. Howe and Robert Gray to Joseph Barrell
2322Canton January 18th 1790
2323
2324Joseph Barrell Esqr.
2325
2326Sir
2327
2328IN our last by Captn. Carpenter we inform'd you that we had obtain'd permission to land the Cargo of Skins -- they are yet
2329
2330-- 132 --
2331unsold by reason of the Mandareens putting their Chop 368 upon them, but have great prospects of closeing the business in a few days.
2332
2333Mr. Randall has engaged six hundred Chests of Bohea Tea, but cannot tell the amount of our funds untill the Cargo is sold -- we shall begin to pack in the course of five days, and in all probability sail by the last of this month 369 -- cannot but express our anxiety for Captn. Kendrick who has not yet arrived, but are in hopes of seeing him previous to our departure, and of giveing you pleasing accounts of him on our arrival in America, untill which time we remain with every sentiment of respect to you and the Gentlemen of the Company your
2334
2335Devoted
2336
2337and Obedient
2338
2339humble Servants
2340
2341R. S. Howe for
2342
2343himself and
2344
2345Robert Gray
2346
2347Joseph Ingraham to Robert Gray
2348Cap. Robt. Gray at Pinguas Hong Canton
2349
2350Sir
2351
2352PLEASE pay to Mr. Thos. Barrow or Order Nine Dollars being for Rice supplied the Ship Columbia.
2353
2354Your Most Obedient Servant
2355
2356Jos. Ingraham
2357
2358Wampoa 22 Jany. 1790
2359
2360Received the Contents in full
2361
2362Jas. Holland
2363
2364Purser
2365
2366-- 133 --
2367
2368John Kendrick to Robert Gray and Richard S. Howe
2369Macao Jany. 27th 1790
2370
2371Gentlemen:
2372
2373I YESTERDAY anchored in this Road, and have since mad[e] application for liberty to enter the Typa, but cannot obtain it. therefore request your advice and assistance, together with the owners instructions how to proceed, being entirely destitute of every necessary or Cash to purchase unless I dispose of my Furrs which I wish to avoid till you can inform me what the Current Price is -- Make mine and the Gentlemens Compliments to those of the Columbia -- and believe me with respect and Esteem
2374
2375Your Humble Servant
2376
2377John Kendrick
2378
2379Messrs. Gray and Howe
2380
2381Canton
2382
2383Robert Gray to John Kendrick
2384Canton January 29th 1790
2385
2386John Kendrick Esqr.
2387
2388Sir
2389
2390WE sincearly Congratulate you on your safe arrival at Macoa, and are very sorry to inform, that our business is attended with the greatest trouble and difficulty, Mr. Randall to whom we consign'd the Ship, (Mr. Shaw being absent) positively declines transacting the business of your Sloop as he has a large Ship now loaded and nothing prevents his sailing but the difficulty that arises from our skin Cargo which cannot as yet be disposed off. we have six hundred Chests of Tea on board, and as soon as the Hoppo 370 will give a Chop for the sale of the skins we shall be ready to sail for America.
2391
2392Mr. McIntire to whom you are recomme[n]ded, wishes you to transmit to us a list of the Quantity and Quality of skins on board, and advises, that you wou'd remain in Macoa road, untill you can again write us, and receive further advise, Shou'd the weather be
2393
2394-- 134 --
2395unfavorable, that you would run into dirty butter bay, 371 for which purpose you will apply to Mr. Bruces boatman, by the name of Appo, who will be found at the Chop house fry grands, 372 to pilot you -- Should you go there be very cautious as several vessells have been boarded by the Ladroons.
2396
2397We also wish you Sir to inform us wether you intend loading for America, selling your vessell, or returning on the Coast, that we may more perticularly advise you, in our next untill which, it is by no means advisable for you to attempt coming here -- was it posible one of us would immediately come down to you, but such is the difficulty and trouble with which business is transacted in this Country that we should involve our Ship was we to attempt it -- but hope in our next to be able to inform the time we shall sail and have the pleasure of seeing.
2398
2399We have reccomended to you a Compadore 373 who will supply you with necessarys for two or three weeks upon Credit -- which is all that is at present in our power to do -- the price of Skins is from fifty to seventy doll[a]rs provided you smuggle which in this port is impossible, without great danger. 374
2400
2401A Gentlemen has it in agitation to send a man down to look at a Muster of your Skins. Should he like them he pay you cash there for the whole -- provided he comes he will receive a Letter from us for the purpose -- enclose to you two letters from the owners -- and beg leave to assure you nothing shall be wanting on our part to render you assistance. Comp[limen]ts to the Gentlemen of the Washington and b[e]lieve us to be truly
2402
2403Your devot[ed]
2404
2405Humble Servant
2406
2407[Robert Gray]
2408
2409-- 135 --
2410
2411Robert Gray to John Kendrick
2412Canton Jany. 30th 1790
2413
2414John Kendrick Esqr.
2415
2416Sir
2417
2418THE Bearers of this accompanied by the linguister are the persons alluded to in our last to examine the Skins of different Qualitys you have and make you an offer -- Shou'd you agree with them, the money will be paid here previous to your delivering them and they receive an order for the same from us provided it meets your approbation, and in all probability you can rec[eive] it by our Ship in the course of 18 days -- however Sir we provided you chuse to receive the money there it is at your option, but this we wish to communicate that the risk of transporting the money in boats will be attended with great risk by reason of Roberies which are frequently commited.
2419
2420We would wish you to consider maturely upon the business and write us as perticularly as possible.
2421
2422We remain Sir with respect
2423
2424[Robert Gray]
2425
2426Robert Gray to John Kendrick
2427Canton 4th Feby. 1790
2428
2429Dear Sir
2430
2431THE report at Canton is that you are coming up. believe me Dear Sir you will have immeasurable difficultys to struggle against at this late period of the Seson not only that but you will not receive one third of the Value for your Skins and once they have you here they will oblige you to give the Skins at their own price there is no such thing as reshipping if it is not too late by all means remain below you will find Merchants in abundance to take your Cargo of your hands and supply you with what ever articles you are in want of. This Dear Sir is the opinion of Captain Douglas and everyone that wishes you well.
2432
2433We are etc.
2434
2435[Robert Gray]
2436
2437-- 136 --
2438
2439John Kendrick to Robert Gray and Richard S. Howe
2440Macao February 6th 1790
2441
2442Gentlemen --
2443
2444YOUR favour of the first instant I received, but cannot at present determin whether I shall dispose of my Vessell, take a Cargo for America -- or return again to the Coast not knowing whether your Teas are Shiped on the Owners Account, or Freight -- or to what amount your Cargo has sold for -- which I desire you will particularly mention in your next. a portugeese Gentleman has it in agitation to purchase the Sloop but if I think proper to Comply with his Offer it will not be, till I have disposed of my Furrs: and received your account of Sales.
2445
2446You'll transmit an account of skins to Mr. McIntyre 375 which amount to 320 Whole ones, 60 Garments, and 150 pieces both large and small as to the Quality we judge it equal to any that has been brought from the Coast -- Several Chinese merchants have proposed to purchase the whole, but I shall not dispose of them till I am inform'd whether Mr. McIntyre proposes to come down within a few days and if not I shall then sell them to the Best advantage.
2447
2448In your next, you'll send a full Account of the Cargo on Board -- and the Quality of your Teas -- together with their prices -- and what Quantity will be sufficient to Compleat your lading -- likewise whether Cordage, and sail Cloth, is to be procured at Canton 376 -- together with such articles as are suitable for the North West Trade -- and a price Current accompanying it. Being too much exposed in the Roads, on the third day after our Arrival we moved our Station to Dirty Butter Bay where we lay Securely moored -- and very lonesome.
2449
2450I am Gentlemen with respect
2451
2452and Esteem Your Humble Servant
2453
2454John Kendrick
2455
2456-- 137 --
2457P. S. Send me an Account of the Duties skins pay and the proportion pieces bear to prime skins with your opinion what the Sloop would fetch at Canton -- considering she is now entirely destitute of Sails and Rigging -- the skins mentioned are those belonging to the Cargo only.
2458
2459J. K.
2460
2461Robert Gray's Accounts with the Owners of the Columbia
2462The Owners of Ship Columbia in Account Current with Robert Gray
2463
2464
2465-- 138 --
2466
2467-- 139 --
2468
2469Messrs. Shaw & Randall to Joseph Barrell
2470Canton February 7th 1790
2471
2472Joseph Barrell Esqr.
2473
2474Sir
2475
2476AGREEABLE to the instructions of Capt. Gray and M. Howe, We now inclose you invoice and Bill of lading for the return Cargo of Ship Columbia for the transaction of which those gentlemen thought proper to value upon us for. Had this vessel been by
2477
2478-- 140 --
2479the Owners regularly consigned to us, we should have advised Capt. Gray to have smuggled his Skins below, and when he came up to Canton reported he had nothing but money -- however as he had no instructions necessity obliged him to come up with his Skins and to value upon us, being destitute of money -- we are Sorry to find that we have not been able to obtain more for the Cargo of the Columbia, which probably might have been done had we hazarded the risque of Smugling the Skins at Wampoa -- but I was informed in case of Such an attempt it would have Stopped the Ship -- or the Nation been obliged to pay a fine perhaps more than the amount of the Skins, We have endeavored to help the voyage by a freight of Bohea teas on the same terms that other american Vessels offered to take them, We have often repented our accepting this consignment on the part of Capt. Gray and M. Howe as the Ship being without funds in ready money -- involved us in heavy advances in Cash at a time the State of trade here did not well admit of it. With Capt. Gray and M. Howe, who consigned us the Vessel, we have made a final Settlement of our Accounts, and no doubt they will give you every requisite information. We wish a Safe arrival to the Columbia and are
2480
2481Dear Sir
2482
2483With respect
2484
2485Your Obedient Servants
2486
2487Shaw & Randall
2488
2489-- 141 --
2490
2491The Columbia's Accounts with Messrs. Shaw & Randall
2492Capt. Robert Gray and Richard Howe for
2493
2494Owners of Ship Columbia in
2495
2496Account with Shaw and Randall
2497
2498
2499-- 142 --
2500
2501Tobias Lear to Joseph Barrell
2502United States February 26th 1790
2503
2504Sir,
2505
2506I HAVE the honor to transmit the enclosed Letter addressed to you, which was yesterday handed to the President of the United States by the Spanish Charge des Affaires. It was under a cover directed to the President of the Congress of the United States, and accompanied by a letter addressed in the same manner, which I herewith enclose that you may see the cause of your letter being conveyed through this channel. With very great esteem, I am, Sir
2507
2508Your most Obedient Servant
2509
2510Tobias Lear
2511
2512Secretary to the President
2513
2514of the United States
2515
2516Joseph Barrell Esquire
2517
2518Richard S. Howe and Robert Gray to Joseph Barrell
2519St. Helena June 16th 1790
2520
2521Joseph Barrell Esq.
2522
2523Sir
2524
2525WE have the pleasure to inform you that we have this moment arrived at the above dated port, and in good order -- the Vessell by which we write this is now getting under way, which prevents our being particular, as we could wish; our passage from Macoa has been four months and three days, we left Captn. Kendrick in a harbour below Macoa, but a gale of wind prevented our seeing him, by what we could collect he intends returning on the coast. 377
2526
2527We are Sir with every
2528
2529sentiment of Respect
2530
2531Your devoted humble Servants
2532
2533R. S. Howe for himself and
2534
2535Captn. Robt. Gray
2536
2537-- 143 --
2538
2539Robert Gray's Accounts with the Owners of the Columbia
2540The Owners of Ship Columbia in Account Current with Robert Gray
2541
2542
2543-- 144 --
2544
2545From the Columbian Centinel, July 31, 1790
2546378EXTRACT of a letter from on board the Supply, Capt. Colnet, one of the ships taken by the Spaniards, at Nootka Sound, July 11, 1789.
2547
2548"We made the coast of America July 3, when some Indians came down to us in the afternoon, and informed us that there were five ships then in Nootka Sound, that two large ships had taken one in our employ; and that, if we went in, they would take us likewise. . . .
2549
2550"The two boats, belonging to an American ship and sloop, came along side us, and told us that two snows belonging to the employ, under the Portuguese colours, were both taken by the Spaniards, who had two frigates in Nootka Sound. We were then saluted with three guns from the fort, and the commodore gave us his word of honour that he would not hurt any of us -- and he continued drinking with us in a most friendly manner."
2551
2552From the Columbian Centinel, August 7, 1790
2553379
2554
2555THE sloop Washington, Capt. Kendrick, before the Columbia left Canton, had left Kamscatka, proceeded to China, with furs, and had returned to the Sound again. In the success of these intripid navigators every heart delights.
2556
2557-- 145 --
2558
2559From the Columbian Centinel, August 11, 1790
2560THE COLUMBIA
2561
2562IT is with real pleasure we announce, the safe arrival, in this port, on Monday last [August 9], of the Ship Columbia, Capt. Gray, from a voyage of adventure to the North-West Coast of America.
2563
2564This Ship, in company with the Sloop Washington, sailed on the 30th September, 1787, and the year following reached their place of destination -- from which the Columbia sailed with Furs, which she disposed of in China, on her return home.
2565
2566To Messrs. Barrell, Brown, Bulfinch, Hatch, Derby, and Pintard, who planned the voyage, their country is indebted, for this experiment in a branch of Commerce before unessayed by Americans: And to their care in providing every necessary for the comfort and convenience of the crews, may, under Heaven, be attributed the extraordinary degree of health which they have enjoyed; having lost but one man, by sickness since they sailed.
2567
2568Their country is also under obligation to the intrepid Navigators who have conducted this voyage -- whose urbanity and civility have secured the friendship of the aboriginals of the country they visited; and whose honour and intrepidity have commanded the protection and respect of the European Lords of the soil, to the American flag; while that of another nation hath been forbidden to be unfurled on the coast.
2569
2570The Columbia and Washington are the first American vessels who have circumnavigated the Globe -- and the Washington, which is only of 90 tons burthen, is the first Sloop of any nation ever sent on so great a voyage. 380
2571
2572On the Columbia's arriving opposite the Castle, she saluted the flag of the United States with 13 guns; which was immediately returned therefrom -- and on coming to her moorings in the harbour fired a federal salute -- which a great concourse of citizens assembled on the several wharfs, returned with three huzzas, and a hearty welcome.
2573
2574-- 146 --
2575We are told, that one of the natives of the island of Owhyhee arrived in the Columbia.
2576
2577An Officer on board of the Columbia has favoured us with the following nautical memorandum: viz.,
2578
2579The Ship Columbia, sailed Sept. 30th 1787, from Boston, and arrived at St. Jago's, Nov. 16, 1787 -- the distance, 4124 miles. Dec. 21, 1787, sailed from St. Jago's, and arrived at Falkland Islands Feb. 16, 1788 -- dist. 4888 miles. Feb. 29, 1788, 381 sailed from Falkland Islands, and arrived at Juan Fernandes, May 24, 1788 -- dist. 5349 miles. 382 June 6, 1788, sailed from Juan Fernandes, and arrived at Nootka Sound Sept. 23, 1788 -- dist. 7457 miles. 383 July 30, 1789, sailed from Nootka Sound, and arrived at Canton, Nov. 16, 1789 -- dist. 8446 miles. Feb. 12th, 1790, sailed from Canton and made Ascention-Island June 24, 1790 -- dist. 11,625 miles. June 24th, 1790, 384 sailed from Ascention-Island, and arrived at Boston, Aug. 9th, 1790 -- dist. (computed by Editor, as it is omitted in the journal) 7000 miles. Total number of miles 48,889!
2580
2581The Columbia stoped at the Sandwich-Islands for provisions 24 days, arrived Aug. 24, 1789 -- and two days at St. Helena's for water and refreshment.
2582
2583Journal Extracts: October 26, 1788-July 12, 1789
2584THE Iphigenia and a Schooner sailed from Nootka Oct. 26, 1788. 385 The sloop Washington on a cruize, March 16, 1789. The Iphigenia arrived from Sandwich-Islands, April 19, 1789. 386 The Schooner North-America arrived from do. April 23, 1789. 387 The Washington
2585
2586-- 147 --
2587arrived from her cruize April 22, 1789. The Schooner North-America sailed on a cruize April 30, 1789. The Washington do., May 2, 1789. 388 The Princessa Estephen, Capt. Martinez, arrived 6th May 389 -- and the St. Carlos, Capt. Arraw, May 12th, 1789, both from St. Blass. The Iphigenia, an English vessel, arrived from a cruize June 1, 1789, and was captured by Martinez. The Sloop Princess Royal arrived from Macoa, June 16, 1789. The Washington arrived from a cruize June 17, 1789. The Schooner N. America, sailed on a cruize under Spanish colours June 21st, 1789. The Snow Argonaut, an English vessel arrived from Macoa, July 2, 1789 -- and was captured by Don Martinez the next day, the Sloop Princess Royal, an English vessel was also captured by Martinez, July 12, 1789 -- and the same day the Snow Argonaut was sent to St. Blass, with the officers and men, prisoners, in order to stand trial. 390
2588
2589Thomas Randall to Joseph Barrell
2590New York August 14th 1790
2591
2592Joseph Barrell Esqr.
2593
2594Sir,
2595
2596I AM happy to hear of the safe arrival of the Columbia, and should have writ you immediately on my arrival here, had I not supposed you would have received all the information you might wish from the Messrs. Pintard's here -- You will receive by the Columbia, more particular information respecting Captain Kendricks than it is in my power to give you -- His arriving when I was upon the eve of sailing and the matter being left optional with him, on whom he might value would have prevented us from making any advances to him on so uncertain conditions -- however he will receive every assistance that is in the power of our friends at Canton to render him and hope if he should return to the North West coast his voyage
2597
2598-- 148 --
2599may prove lucrative to the Concern. Whenever it is agreeable to you, I shall be happy to hear from you and am
2600
2601Sir
2602
2603With much respect
2604
2605Your most Obedient Servant
2606
2607Thos. Randall
2608
2609Estimate of Damage to the Columbia's Cargo
2610Boston August 19th 1790
2611
2612ESTIMATE of damage on a quantity of Bohea Teas imported in the Ship Columbia Capt. Gray from Canton on the owners account (which Teas it is our opinion has received damage on the Voyage) agreable to the Warrant Annexed.
2613
2614[There follows an itemized list of sixty-six lots of tea with a total weight of 21,462 pounds, of which the damaged part was estimated as 12,213 pounds.]
2615
2616Submitted per Edwd. Davis
2617
2618Cabot Blanchard
2619
2620Sale of Columbia's Damaged Cargo
2621Sales by Auction Fourteen Chests Damaged Bohea Tea
2622
2623on Account of the Owners of Ship Columbia
2624
2625Boston August 31st 1790
2626
2627
2628-- 149 --
2629
2630
2631-- 150 --
2632
2633Ship Columbia's Portage
2634
2635-- 151 --
2636
2637-- 152 --
2638
2639Calculation of the Washington's Cargo and How Expended
2640391
2641
2642-- 153 --
2643
2644-- 154 --
2645
2646John Kendrick to Thomas Jefferson
2647392On Board the Ship Lady Washington,
2648
2649Harbor of Maw-win-na, St. Clair's Island,
2650
2651North-west coast of America
2652
2653Sir:
2654
2655I HAVE the honor to address you on a subject which I conceive the honor of the government of the United States to be interested in, and the following relation of which I request you to lay before the President, hoping that in his humanity the oppressed will find a protector, and by the representations he, in his wisdom, may direct to be made to the court of Madrid, the unfortunate may be relieved.
2656
2657In the year 1787, an expedition under my command was fitted out from Boston, for prosecuting the fur trade on the north-west coast of America, and, after doubling Cape Horn in a very tempestuous season, my ship, the Columbia, was considerably disabled, and I was in great want of both water and wood. My tender, the Washington sloop, had parted company with me off the cape, and I had no other alternative than repairing to some of the Spanish settlements in the South Pacific ocean, for the purpose of refitting my vessel and procuring some necessary supplies. I therefore bore away for the Island of Juan Fernandez and arrived in Cumberland bay the 24th of May, 1788. We were immediately visited by a Spanish boat with two officers in it; and on their return, my first officer, Mr. Ingraham, was sent on shore to request permission to anchor and continue there a few days, which the governor, Don Blas Gonzalez, major in the cavalry of his Catholic Majesty, very humanely granted, making such stipulations with respect to the term of our continuance at the island, and the conduct to be observed during that period as evinced him to be a cautious, vigilant and prudent officer. Our communication was through the medium of the French language, imperfectly understood by both parties, until the 28th following, when a Spanish ship arrived off the bay to receive the governor's
2658
2659-- 155 --
2660despatches for Chili, on board of which was a Frenchman, who was sent on shore for the purpose of more fully examining our passports, etc. A copy of my sea-letter from the Congress of the United States, and the official letter of the Sieur l'Etombe, consul of France for the State of Massachusetts, etc., were given the governor, and on the day of my intended departure I received from him the letter, of which the enclosed is a copy, three days after the date of which, being detained the intermediate time by a gale of wind, I proceeded on my voyage to this coast.
2661
2662In consequence of the abuse of power by his catholic Majesty's servants in his American governments, or by an untrue and malicious statement of the facts by some secret enemies, Don Blas Gonzalez has been deprived of his employments and treated with considerable rigor and injustice; and the only crime imputed to him is his humane conduct towards me and my crew in 1788 -- a conduct which did honor to him as a man, and was, I conceive, perfectly consistent with the amity and good understanding subsisting between the court of Madrid and the United States. But the affair will be best explained in his own words in a letter to my son, who touched at Valparaiso, in Chili, in the ship Jefferson, Captain Roberts, of Boston, in June, 1792, and who communicated the first intelligence of it to me.
2663
2664(Extract.)
2665
2666"No se sabra N. Md. como desde que se supo en esta que yo havid dado hospitaleded à dho su padre, se me desposá del gobierno por esta Capitania General por und equivocada intelligencia que se formó sobre a quel sueceso; y que aunque el rey, mi señor, aprovó la conducta que observe entonces, con toda hasta, ahora estoi padeciendo las resultas, por la suma distancia en que por mi desgracia, me tiene constituido la suente de este remoto destino; no obstante de las diligenzasempeñosas 9e he practicada pd. vindica, mß arreglada conducta; y de haver escrits à Monsieur L'Etombe, consul de Francia en Boston, y à dho su padre, paraque me favoreciessen en lo que buenamente pudiessen: cuyas resultas ignoro, por no saben si recibieron mis cartas.
2667
2668-- 156 --
2669Si N. Md. Gusta de Escibirles asociado de su capstan, sobre este particular, y recomendarme pd. que me protexan, se lo estimaria mucho: encuyo caso puede N. Md. Entregarlas Cartas al Cavallero Don Manuel Porrasia, necino de esse puerto, y portade de este, que es amigo de todo mi confianza." (Santiago de Chili, 20 de Junio, de 1792). 393
2670
2671In consequence of the request made by Don Blas Gonzalez, Captain Roberts and my son wrote the owners of the Columbia and Jefferson, requesting them to make such a representation to the United States as they pointed out. As they appear to have mistaken the contents of the letter from Don Blas, I have done myself the honor of offering you the foregoing statement of facts; and as he doubtless rendered me those services for which, in the sea letter, the United States declare they shall "stand willing indebted," I hope the affair will have proper attention paid to it. I have now only to request, very earnestly, that any mode of proceeding which may be adopted for the relief of Don Blas Gonzalez, may be executed with all convenient expedition. I need not use any persuasive arguments to interest the officers of the government of the United States in behalf of the unfortunate gentleman who has been the subject of this letter; as the principles of our excellent constitution as well as their native humanity, must render them enemies of oppression.
2672
2673I have the honor to be, with the utmost deference and esteem, honorable sir, your most obedient and most humble servant,
2674
2675John Kendrick
2676
2677-- 157 --
2678Don Blas Gonzalez, sargento mayo de cavalleria de los exercitos de su magestad, y governado politico y militar de esta plaza è islas de Juan Fernandez:
2679
2680Certifico, que haviendo arribado à este puerto el Capitan Juan Kendrick, de la nacion Bostoneza, en la fragata de su mando nombrada la Columbia, con tres oficiales subalternos, y trienta seiz hombres de tripulacion de la propria nacion, comicionado por su republica à viajar por todo el mundo, el viente y quatro de mayo proximo pasado, à pedirme la hospitalidad, exponiendome para ello los por el Aermino 394 de seis dias, de cuya determinacion di parte à l Excellentissimo Señor Vir, rey de Peru, y à la capitania general del reyno de Chili; haviendose detenido quatro dias mas de los concedidos, por la razon de los muchos Aquaceros, que mediaron; sin dar la menor nota, assi los enunciados oficiales, como la demas fripulacion, ni flaltar à lo mas minimo de quanto estipularon con migo, antes de permitules la entrada en este puerto; y para que conste doi la presente à pedimento de dicho Capitan J. Kendrick, en esta isla de Juan Fernandez, à tres dias del mes de Junio, de mil, setecientos, ochenta y ocho años. 395
2681
2682Blas Gonzalez
2683
2684-- NA --
2685
2686John Hoskins' Narrative of the Second Voyage of the 'Columbia'
2687-- [161] --
2688
2689The Narrative of a Voyage etc
2690THE following pages, being wrote to fill my leisure hours; not with any idea of instructing, but in hopes to amuse, some of my particular friends; who well know, I am unaccustomed to literary pursuits, and whose candour, while perusing the following sheets; I must crave, and beg them for awhile, to withhold their criticism.
2691
2692I have not paid any attention to that order in the arrangement of the various scenes; but simply wrote down the facts, as they transpired: though sensible they are divested of that politeness of language, and elegance of composition, a work of this nature demands.
2693
2694But under a due impression of its various imperfections; I will hope for every allowance [2] being made, proceed. It may not be improper in this place to mention the origin of the voyage.
2695
2696Soon after the termination of the late contest; when the Americans began to cultivate the arts; to extend their trade and commerce under the influence of peace, to foreign climes, and regions to them before unknown.
2697
2698'Twas then, that Joseph Barrell Esquire, with a few other gentlemen; plann'd a voyage of trade and discoveries to the northwest coast of America; procur'd many of the necessary articles of traffick; and got it in some forwardness: when those other gentlemen, deeming it too speculative a voyage, it dropt.
2699
2700But Mr. Barrell, still pursuing his favourite scheme; he together with five other gentlemen, in the summer of 1787, plann'd, and put in execution the voyage; for this purpose, they procur'd a Ship of about two hundred and fifty tons; which they call'd the Columbia Rediviva, and a Sloop, of about one hundred tons, the Washington.
2701
2702These vessels were fitted with everything that was thought to be requisite; either for trade, or discoveries, and the command of them given to John Kendrick Esquire; an old, experienced, navigator.
2703
2704A voyage of such enterprize might truly be deemed a novel undertaking; from a Country but so lately emerg'd from the ravages
2705
2706-- 162 --
2707of a long, inhuman, and bloody war; and who gain'd to herself a rank among the Nations of the earth; and was most justly patroniz'd both by Congress, and the State Government; from whom Sea letters were procur'd; as also from the foreign Ambassadors and Consuls in America.
2708
27091787.
2710
2711
2712
2713That nothing might be wanting to commemorate the voyage, and to place a lasting memento in those countries which might be [3] visited or discovered, during its continuance: the Owners caused several hundred medals 396 to be struck, and sent in those vessels. on the one side, was the Ship and Sloop, encircled with theirs and the commanders name. on the other, the names of the Owners, to wit; Joseph Barrell, Samuel Brown, Crowel Hatch, John Derby, Charles Bulfinch and John Marsden Pintard Esquires; encircled with, Fitted at Boston, North America, for the Pacific Ocean 1787. They caused also about a dozen silver ones to be struck; one of which was sent to General Washington; who politely returned his thanks, and paid the Owners a very flattering compliment on the occasion; at the same time express'd his best wishes for their success.
2714
2715October 1787.
2716
2717
2718
2719Every thing being ready for sea, both vessels sail'd in company, on the 1st of October, for St. Jago's, one of the Cape de Verde islands, where Captain Kendrick, for some reasons, tarried forty odd days, when he sailed for Falkland Islands; where he fill'd up his water, and on the last of February sailed to double Cape Horn. it being a late season of the year; he had a very boisterous time, and in a gale of wind, on the 1 st of April, the two vessels lost sight of each other; nor did they meet again, till they arriv'd at Nootka Sound.
2720
2721The Columbia, early in June, made the island of Juan Fernandes; where she stopt to procure refreshments, and to repair the damages sustained by the late tempestuous weather she encountered: and where I shall leave her for the present.
2722
2723The Washington after parting company made the island of Massafueiro; but finding no harbour, she was obliged to proceed on:
2724
2725-- 164 --
2726English vessels under Portuguise colours; he demanded the reason of their being in His most Catholic Majesties port. they answered, for wood and water; to this he gave the assistance, both of his men, and boats. when these were compleated, he ordered them to depart. but afterwards, on account of some indignities offer'd the Spanish flag; he took and sent them to Saint Blas. 397
2727
2728The Washington return'd from her northern cruize in July: having had much better success in collecting skins than on her southern. during this cruize, they discovered a large Island: which they circumnavigated, and named Washington's Island: in honour of that illustrious patriot, and friend of mankind, His Excellency General Washington. they also discovered many fine harbors; in a small one, in about the latitude of 55° north; they struck on some sunken rocks: carried away the bowsprit, and did considerable damaged [sic] to the hull. Captain Kendrick ordered the vessel to be immediately repair'd; when done, he sail'd with both vessels for Clioquot. where, on his arrival, he thought best to change: to send Captain Gray on to Canton, with the Columbia with what Skins had been collected: consigned to Messieurs Shaw and Randall. that they might come to an early market. and to go himself in the Washington on a cruize to the northward to finish the season.
2729
27301790.
2731
2732
2733
2734The Columbia sail'd from Clioquot on the 31st of July, carrying several of the officers and crew of those vessels taken by the Spaniards. Captain Kendrick very politely giving them their [6] passage. the Columbia, in her rout, touch'd at the Sandwich islands where they procur'd hogs, vegetables, and other refreshments: and arrived at China, early in november.
2735
2736The Washington, after cruizing round Washington's Island; where many skins were procured: proceeded in nearly the same track to China: and arrived at Macao, about the middle of January. when Captain Kendrick, thinking it would cause a needless expence to carry his little vessel up to Wompoa; and that his Skins would sell no better there: determined to go with her to Larksbay; where almost immediately on his arrival he was seized with a violent fever; which caused his life for some time to be despaired of: and which
2737
2738-- 165 --
2739prevented his going to Canton in person, as he had previously intended. he therefore sent orders to Captain Gray to stop at the bay, previous to his going to America; and receive his final orders. but for some reasons, Captain Gray thought not to stop.
2740
2741After the Columbia had sail'd for America: and Captain Kendrick had sold his skins; 398 he prepaired his vessel for another voyage to the coast.
2742
2743I will now leave Captain Kendrick in China; as I shall have occasion to speak of him again in the course of this narrative. and follow the Columbia, who after touching at St. Helena, arriv'd in Boston, on the 9th of August.
2744
2745When Captain Kendrick's conduct was much blamed by the officers of the Columbia. who say he had it in contemplation to cheat the Owners 399 out of what property he has in his hands; and would have done out of all had they not rescued it, and brought it of with the Ship. -- that he never had cruiz'd the coast; and appear'd not to have the owners interest at heart. [7] but only to gratify his own pleasures.
2746
2747Thus much must be acknowledged; that Captain Kendrick had two good vessels on the coast. (and if his enemies may be believed,) had it in his power to make both for himself and the Owners a very handsome fortune; but he let those golden opportunities pass; and on his arrival in China was depriv'd of his largest vessel; which was his principle support: but no Knavery has at present open'd. to be sure, the man was by no means calculated for the charge of such an expedition: but a better man might have done worse. 400
2748
2749The officers who sail'd in the Columbia on a former voyage gave such flattering accounts of the coasts; together with such noble prospects as were to be deriv'd from the quantity of skins, which with a little exertion are to be procur'd: at the same time promising from their abilities to produce a golden harvest; that the Owners notwithstanding the failure of the former voyage were again induced to fit
2750
2751-- 166 --
2752the Ship. the command of which was given to Captain Gray. whom I must do the credit to say although he cruiz'd the coast more; and appear'd to be more persevering to obtain skins, yet his principles were no better, his abilities less, and his knowledge of the coast, from his former voyage, circumscribed within very narrow limits.
2753
2754The Ship, having undergone a thorough repair; was loaded with all dispatch. and that nothing might be wanting to facilitate our procuring skins; and that we might be enabled to cruize both the northern and southern coasts at one and the same time, we took on board the frame of a vessel, of about fifty tons, to build on the coast.
2755
2756September 1790.
2757
2758
2759
2760The 22d of september, the officers and people were paid their wages up to this day: and two months more in advance. which is contrary to the usual customs of the port. but the Owners, considering the great length of the voyage; and [8] that there were many little necessaries those people would want to procure; were induc'd to do this.
2761
2762Every thing being in readiness for sea: sunday the 26th was the day appointed for our sailing. but on this day, discovering a small leak, under the ship's counter, Mr. Clark the builder, when he came to view it; thought it necessary her stern should be haul'd on shore, which was immediately done, at Hancock's wharf; the leak was soon found; it prov'd to be a spike hole, which when the old rudder irons were taken of, was not stopt: and bringing the ship down by the stern, caus'd it to leak. this being properly secured; the ship was haul'd into the stream again the next tide.
2763
2764At six o'clock on the morning of the 27th Captain Gray and myself repair'd on board. the pilot being already there; we weighed with a light breeze from the SW and stood down the harbour. at noon, being abreast of the lighthouse, the pilot was discharg'd.
2765
2766At three in the afternoon the lighthouse bore north 81° 34' west four leagues distant. at four, the wind became variable, blowing fresh, attended with heavy showers of rain, and frequent squalls.
2767
2768The wind at five in the morning of the 28th had veered round to the northeast: from which quarter it blew a strong gale; fetching with it a mountainous sea: which soon reduc'd us to our close reef'd topsails; at the same time, deeming it necessary to send down topgallantyards, and to launch the topgallantmasts. at ten, tack't ship
2769
2770-- 167 --
2771to the northward. at half past twelve, saw Cape Cod; bearing southwest. Captain Gray finding he [9] could not weather the Cape; or if he did, 'twas impossible to the shoals of Nantucket with the wind from this quarter. thus situated, with a heavy gale of wind, which was momently increasing; and night fast approaching; it was thought best to make a harbour, as soon as possible. accordingly, at two in the afternoon, we bore away for the Cape. at half past four, passed Race point, at six, abreast of Herring cove; and at seven, cast anchor in Barnstable bay in fifteen fathom water, over a bottom of clay: five miles distant from the nearest land; the extremes of the Cape bearing north.
2772
2773In this situation we are so land lock't, that should the wind come fair; it is impossible for us to put to sea: and though the gale has not abated any in its violence; yet at eight in the morning of the 29th we weigh'd, came to sail; and stood for Nantasket roads. the top-gallantmasts and topgallantyards were swayed up; and we carried a press of sail all day. At three in the afternoon saw a Ship to the eastward, a standing in. at five, abreast of Hasset meeting house. at half past six, saw the light house bearing northwest, distance about seven leagues. at half past ten, cast anchor in the light house channel in five fathom water. at eleven, spoke a Schooner, bound into the roads; and at half past eleven, a Ship past us; suppos'd to be the one we saw standing in.
2774
2775At six in the morning of the 30th weighed, stood into Nantasket roads, and came to anchor in seven fathom water over a muddy bottom: George's island bearing east north east four miles, and Nantasket south east, two miles distant. Captain Gray went on shore at George's Island; where he purchaised a few sheep, some hay, etca. [10] for our stock. The gale continued, with little intermission, untill about midnight, when it ceas'd.
2776
27771790. October.
2778
2779
2780
2781Early the next morning, which being the 1st of October, 401 a light breeze sprang up from the westward; with this breeze we weighed, and came to sail; but before we had proceeded many miles; the wind again veered round to the eastward, and blew fresh; which oblig'd us to heave about, stand into the roads, and
2782
2783-- 168 --
2784again come to anchor. In the afternoon I accompanied Captain Gray, in the yawl, up to Boston. after paying our respects to Mr. Barrell; and procuring a few necessaries; we returned aboard again about midnight.
2785
2786In the morning of the 2d the wind again favoured us with a light breeze from the westward. with joy we embrac'd it, weigh'd anchor for the last time, and stood out to sea. but this joy was not a little damped on the returning idea of taking a long farewell of our native country and connections. At six past the light house. at ten saw two ships, a standing in; one of which shew us English, the other American colours. at noon, spoke a Schooner, bound in from whaling. at sunset, the light house bore North 78° 45' west, distant about six leagues.
2787
2788At six in the morning of the 3d saw Cape Cod bearing south southwest, distance about seven leagues. We now had a fresh breeze from the southwest, with pleasant weather; with which we proceeded on our voyage without any remarkable occurrence; save seeing several sail of vessels at different times; none of which approach'd us within hale: until the 31st when we saw the island of St. Antonio, bearing south 78° 45' west; distance about five leagues: this belonging to [11] that group known by the name of the Cape de Verde Islands: and is in the latitude of 17° 9' north; longitude 24° 48' west; and are subject to the Portuguise.
2789
27901790. November.
2791
2792
2793
2794At ten in the morning of the 1st of November; saw a large ship, standing to the southward: and at 8 in the evening, being in the latitude of Saint Jago's; another of those islands, we shortened sail, and went under it all night. 402
2795
2796It had been Captain Gray's intention of stopping at this last mentioned island. but not being in any real want of any thing; and loath to loose the advantage of so fine a breeze; he could not be induced to waste the time.
2797
2798These islands appear to be happily situated; to offer to vessels bound on long voyages without any material variation in their course, a station for ample supplies and refreshments.
2799
2800From the 9th when in latitude 7° 21' north, longitude 25° 2' west;
2801
2802-- 169 --
2803to the 22d when in latitude 2° 30' north; and longitude 28° 26' west; we had the winds light and variable; some few calms, and them of short duration; with heavy showers of rain, and dark sultry weather. the worst of consequences are to be dreaded from this rainy, sultry weather: which most vessels experience about the line; especially those bound on long voyages; and though there was no precautions taken to preserve the health of our people; and we had none sick or complaining: yet it is most certainly incumbent on every master of a vessel to pay the strictest attention to the health and lives of his people; while passing the torrid regions.
2804
2805At sunset on the 11th saw four sail to the north east; which continued in sight till two in the afternoon of the 13th when we spoke a Ship from Lisbon, bound to the Brazils; [12] the boat was sent on board with a letter; which the Portuguise Captain was polite enough to say he would forward by the earliest conveyance; making an offer of any thing we stood in need of; at the same time endeavouring to impress on the mind of the officer who went in the boat, (in broken english;) that he was no merchantman, but a King's Ship. At five, Parker Butler master of the Aurora of Bristol came on board; he is bound round Cape Horn into the Pacific ocean, a whaling: he having lost his jib boom, we supplied him with a spare topgallantmast to make a new one.
2806
2807On the 14th I was accompanied by Mr. Haswell on board the Aurora, w[h]ere we spent the day, the next day Captain Butler honored us with a visit.
2808
2809In a squall on the afternoon of the 17th carried away the jib boom; the wreck was soon cleared, a new boom rigged, and the sail again set.
2810
2811On the 21st saw two strange sail; the one in the northeast, the other the southeast quarter.
2812
2813At eight o'clock on the evening of the 25th we crossed the Equator in the longitude of 31° 10' West: we here had the variation 7° 41' West.
2814
2815In the afternoon of the 27th spoke the La Citoyen from L'Orient. bound to Pondicherry.
2816
2817Though we daily had many fish about the ship; and in general caught a sufficent to supply the cabbin; yet on the 29th we caught
2818
2819-- 170 --
2820the largest Albacore any of us ever saw, it weighing when clean'd, one hundred and thirty pounds. At sunset, saw a large ship to the southwest, under Portuguise colors; at nine spoke her, she was from Lisbon, bound [13] to Rio Janeiro.
2821
2822On the 30th saw a gannet, many gulls, and a man of war bird: which are usually thought to be signs of the proximity of land: but we know of none nigher than Cape Saint Augustine; which is about thirty leagues distant.
2823
28241790. December.
2825
2826
2827
2828We lost the southeast trade winds on the 2d of December in latitude 11° 25' south, longitd. 36° 33' west, when we took a wind from the northeast, which continued to blow a pleasant gale, until the 11th (my latitude 26° 2' south, and longitude 42° 45' west) when it suddenly changed, in a heavy squall or tornado, into the westward; which struck the Ship, carried away the fore and maintopgallantmasts, the foretopsail yard, cross and trussel trees; sprung the mizentopmast; damaged the maintopgallant sail, maintopsail yard, cross trees, etca. etca. the weather almost immediately became calm, leaving a heavy sea, which caus'd the Ship to labour much; with excessive heavy rains, in so much that we caught in our awning five casks of water. The wreck was cleared as soon as possible; the Carpenters, sailmakers, and others were set to work to repair the damages; which was compleated by noon of the 14th and all sail again set.
2829
2830From this to the morning of the 22d the wind was variable from south to northwest; when it settled in a heavy gale of wind with a mountainous sea from the southward; which obliged us to heave to for sixteen hours; under a close reef'd foresail and mizen staysail; the topgallant masts and yards being struck. In the evening, the gale having considerably abated, we began again to make sail; but the wind continued to the southward and westward, with little variation, for twenty four days following.
2831
2832On the 26th having the water discoloured [14] at noon, and in the evening sounded, but got no bottom, with a line of one hundred and twenty fathoms; my latitude at this time being 37° 42' south, longitude 51° 48' west. At noon on the 28th again sounded, but got no bottom, with a line of one hundred and eighty fathoms; when my latitude was 41° 0' south, longitude 55° 56' west. And on the 29th
2833
2834-- 171 --
2835having the water coloured of a greenish hue, sounded but got no bottom with a line of One hundred and sixty fathoms; latitude 41° 2' south, longitude 57° 42' west; we now daily saw numbers of birds of various kinds.
2836
2837On the 31st we had many Albatrosses flying about the ship; sixteen of which we caught with hooks and lines; the largest measuring six feet five inches and a half from the end of his bill to the end of his tail, and twelve feet ten inches from tip to tip of his wings: the method we made use of to catch them was by fastening one or more small hooks to a line, with a peice of the rind of salt pork for a bait, then veer it ten or fifteen fathoms astern; the wind blowing fresh, and the Ship having quick way through the water; they would make a sudden dart for the bait, take the hook into their mouths, which caught in their bills; they were then haul'd through the water into the ship. (sometimes two at once) with the greatest ease. This sea bird being so well known, it would be superfluous in me to attempt a description. Though this bird is considered as coarse unsavoury food; by those whose living has been more delicate; yet by us, to whom fresh meat is a luxury, it was deem'd a noble acquisition, and eat both by ourselves and the people with great avidity after undergoing the following operations; first skin them, then take out all their bones and fat, then parboil the meat, after which have it dressed, as fancy or inclinations directs; [15] and it eats exceedingly well, no ways fishy or unpallatable.
2838
28391791. January.
2840
2841
2842
2843On the 2d of January 1791, we caught twelve more albatrosses in the same way. Although we daily saw abundance of kelp, whales, seals, pinquins, petrils, port egmont hens, etca. which plainly indicated the vicinity of land; yet we did not strike soundings till the morning of the 13th when we had fifty four fathoms black sand, with a few white specks. At eight in the morning of the 14th had fifty two fathom black sand; and at four in the afternoon, had fifty fathom clay mud.
2844
2845On the 15th the wind veered to the east and southeast, and blew a pleasant gale; this is the first time we have had the wind fair since the 22d of December. at six in the afternoon sounded, in forty five fathom, over a bottom of soft mud.
2846
2847At eight in the morning of the 16th had forty five fathom, and at
2848
2849-- 172 --
2850noon thirty five fathom, mud. At halfpast twelve, saw the land, extending from south southeast to southwest. the topsails were double reefed, and the ship hauled on a wind; the weather now grew very thick and hazy, the wind increas'd into a strong gale, and the sea became mountainous. with this crowd of sail, more than the ship was well able to bare, but necessity demanded it, we stood along shore in hopes to weather what we supposed to be the pitch of the Cape; but as we advanced, the land continued to appear on our weather bow, as far as the eye could reach, trending to the southward and eastward. we stood on this tack as long as possible, then wore ship; this we continued to do, as occasion required, or the wind offer'd any advantage. the cables were now bent as the last resort, when we could no longer sail; and Captain Gray very prudently ordered their to be no sounding; as it would only [16] increase our fears, without a possibility of lessening our danger. thus was our situation truly alarming; there being to all appearance but a short space between us, and eternity; but fortunately for us, at eleven in the evening, the gale began to abate, and at two in the morning of the 17th it was calm, we then sounded in twelve fathom grey sand; at daylight, the westermost land bore north 78° 45' west, and the eastermost south 78° 45' east, the nighest land south southwest three or four miles. a light breeze now coming from the westward, with which we stood along shore to the eastward. we were mistaken in what yesterday we took to be Cape Blanco; for we found ourselves in a deep bay, several leagues to the northward of it. at noon I observed in latitude 47° 9' south, longitude 64° 14' west; Cape Blanco at this time bearing south 16° 52' west, about three leagues distance; which makes the Cape to lie in latitd. 47° 18' south, and longitude 64° 26' west.
2851
2852At one in the afternoon, breakers were descried about a quarter of a mile ahead; hauled our wind and sounded in five fathom, the next cast of the lead was ten, and so continued to deepen to twenty fathoms. I now felt myself exceeding happy to think we did not weather the land yesterday; for if we had, in all human probability we should have been lost on those breakers. At five sounded in twenty two fathoms, the eastermost land or extreme of the Cape bearing south 65° west, distance about six leagues; and at eight again sounded,
2853
2854-- 173 --
2855in twenty five fathom pebble stones, the southermost land bearing south 78° 45' west, about nine leagues distant, and the nearest land about five leagues distant. observed the variation by an azimuth to be 21° 36' east. The land about the Cape is of a moderate heighth, and pretty level; not having either tree or shrub; but appears a lifeless green. [17]
2856
2857I believe it may be thought, or rather it is my opinion; had we have struck soundings soon after we were to the southward of Cape Frio; and kept along down the coast on the bank, we should have had the northeast winds, which are generally found to blow along the coast at this season of the year; and of course had a much shorter passage: be that as it may, I would certainly advise no vessel to follow our track.
2858
2859On the 18th we had a pleasant gale from the westward; with which we steered south south east for Falkland's Islands; having a great number of whales, seals, sealions, birds of various kinds, and large sheets of kelp about the ship; and no land in sight, sounded and got bottom with a line of fifty six fathom over a bottom of white and black sand.
2860
2861At eleven in the evening of the 21st saw Jasons Islands, bearing north 67° 30' east, about four leagues distance: double reef'd the topsails and hove to, head to the southwest for the night. At three the next morning, it being the 22d again made sail; the northermost of the Jasons islands bearing north 56° 15' east, about three leagues distance. the weather had now become exceedingly squally, with rain and sunshine alternately.
2862
2863It being Captain Gray's intention of stopping at that part of this group of islands known by the name of new islands; we stood away south south east for Cape Percival; at six saw the Cape bearing south and by east, distance about ten leagues. at noon abreast of the westermost of the new islands; bore away, and stood alongshore to the eastward. at two in the afternoon, entered new island Harbor; 403 Loophead forming the eastermost entrance, nearly opposite to which is a [18] remarkable, round green island, and about a mile ahead, in a south 67° 30' east direction, there are breakers, or sunken rocks,
2864
2865-- 174 --
2866which may easily be discovered by the kelp growing about them; at low water they are bare, and have the appearance of a low flat black island: in a south direction from these, about two miles, is a snug Cove; into which we beat, against wind and tide, safe and without any difficulty. at four came to anchor, when I accompanied Captain Gray on shore in the yawl, to seek a convenient place for watering; we here found a great plenty of game; we shot several geese and ducks; and from appearance at present, I think their will be no difficulty in keeping the ship supplied with fresh provissions while in port: in the meantime, they were employed on board in mooring ship, which when compleated lay in nine fathoms water, over a bottom of mud and sand; the watering place bearing south east, distant about one mile; the eastermost point of land bearing north north west, and the westermost north 56° 15' west. it being late in the afternoon, little else was done after mooring ship, besides getting out the boats and clearing the decks. The next day we had an exceeding heavy gale of wind; attended with squalls of rain, which obliged us to strike topgallantmasts and topgallantyards; this retarded us but little, as all the empty water casks were got out of the hold and in readiness to be sent ashore; and the hole put in order again for their reception.
2867
2868On the 24th the weather became fair and pleasant; sent all the empty casks ashore with the Coopers to trim them; a tent also was pitched for the accomodation of the watering party; the Caulkers were at the same time set to work a caulking the ship's sides, which were found to be very open; the Ship was careened and hogged, sides and bends fresh paid. all the water was on board by [19] the afternoon of the 29th and on the morning of the 30th a party was sent to collect fresh stock for sea: while others were employed in lashing the spare spars, and getting in readiness for sea, which was compleated by noon, but we were wind bound. the party which went to procure stock return'd, having the good fortune to collect about sixty geese, one hundred ducks, and a number of seapies, and other birds. in the afternoon, another party was again sent, whose success was nearly equal to those in the forenoon. Captain Gray and myself being also a walking ashore, attended by one of the people; who had strayed into the huge tufts of grass, from whence he came running
2869
2870-- 175 --
2871and informed us he saw a hog; we also entered the tufts of grass, and had not walked far, before we discovered a fine large one, running out from among those tufts. we now much regretted this discovery had not been made at an earlier period: (tho we had reason to think, there were some sort of animals here previous to this; but had not seen them.) and return'd to the ship with the glad tidings of what we had seen. Captain Gray now determined, should the wind be unfavourable tomorrow, to endeavour to catch some.
2872
2873The wind still continued contrary on the 31st when Captain Gray, Mr. Caswell and myself, with ten men, went on shore to hunt the hog; in about two hours we shot four, when we return'd with our game. 404 At two in the afternoon, there came on a most violent storm, the wind rushing down upon us in heavy torrents from the mountains, accompanied with rain; which caused the ship to drag her anchors; the lower yards were struck, and two more anchors let go, when the ship rode a heavy strain with five anchors ahead; her stern scarce a stones throw from the rocks. [20]
2874
28751791. February.
2876
2877
2878
2879On the morning of the 1st of Febuary, the gale having much abated, and the weather become tolerably pleasant; a party was sent on shore to hunt, (the wind being still unfavourable,) they had the good fortune to shoot three hogs, and to catch one pig alive. at noon they return'd aboard, when the storm again arose, if possible, with redoubled fury, and continued until about midnight; when the wind shifted to the south, and the weather became fair.
2880
2881At four in the morning of the 2d swayed up the lower yards, unmoored ship, hoisted in the boats, and at nine weighed, and came to sail. at ten passed Loophead. at eleven saw a ship to the southward, bearing down for us; hove to, maintopsail to the mast, to wait for her; a very heavy sea a going. at noon the northwest extreme of the new islands bore south 78° 45' west, distance about two leagues. I observed in latitude 51° 46' south, my longitude 60° 52' 0' west. at two in the afternoon, the ship came within hale; when she proved to be the Bedford of Dunkirk, Laban Coffin master, bound to the Pacific Ocean a whaling. 405 after purchaising a cask of spermacati
2882
2883-- 176 --
2884oil, we parted; outsailing the Bedford so much as to have her out of sight astern at eight in the evening; when Cape Percival, the westermost extreme of the Falklands islands bore south 56° 15' east, six leagues distant.
2885
2886The Geography of these islands I am altogether unacquainted with; suffice it therefore to say, they were discovered by Sir Richard Hawkins 1594, and by him called Hawkins's maiden land: afterwards they were called by Captain Strong, Falklands Islands; they are situated between the latitude [ ] and between the longitude [ ] 406 how many islands there are I know not; but am informed, most [21] of them afford good harbours. On the eastern side of these islands, the Spaniards have a settlement; which I believe to be the only one on them; save now and then temporary ones, erected by those who come here for the benefit of collecting seals skins, or trying out oil. 407
2887
2888The Columbia's anchoring place, in New Island Harbour, by observation is in latitude 51° 34' south, longitude 60° 47' 0' west; this is a most excellent harbour, and spacious enough to contain an hundred sail; there are several fine coves, where vessels may always lay secure. on the eastern side of the harbour, is a small fresh water river; indeed there is in all parts water plenty, and convenient. The small chart which accompanies this 408 will shew the situation of the harbour much better than I can describe it.
2889
2890During our continuance in this Harbour; we had frequent gales, attended with squalls, heavy gusts from the mountains, hail, sleet, and rain; once we had a slight frost. the weather was quite cool and winterly; and the winds in general from north west to west south west. this sort of weather in this latitude is not a little surprizing in the heighth of summer; when in our country it is generally warm and pleasant, and all nature teems with its choicest fruits.
2891
2892In one of my excursions, on the west side of the harbour, near to the reef of rocks before mentioned, laying not far from the entrance,
2893
2894-- 177 --
2895I saw a large cave, which appeared to have been hewn out of the solid rock; about eight or ten feet wide, it run in open about thirty feet, then under ground about as much more; where it was fifteen or twenty feet high; from this cavern issued a fine spring of fresh water.
2896
2897The land about the harbour is [22] mountainous, interspersed with pleasant dales; in which there are many deep chasms; some so over grown with grass, as to make the walking dangerous; while others are quite recent: from this circumstance, I am induced to think these islands are visited by earthquakes.
2898
2899In the vallies, the soil is of a rich, loose black mole; but on the sides of the mountains, it is of a light reddish gravel; the shores are of a black slate rock, intervened with fine white sand beaches.
2900
2901There is neither tree, nor shrub, grows on the island. there are several sorts of grass, such as clover, herds, and scurvy grass; also along the shore, a large coarse grass, 409 which has grown and rotted again and again, till it has form'd large hillocks; in which hogs, seals, sealions, pinguins etca. have formed to themselves temporary habitations; those hillocks if cut up, and dried, would afford good fuel, in case of necessity. there is also some wood and garden sorrel; besides some few plants I am unacquainted with.
2902
2903Besides the Hogs before mentioned, I believe there is no quadruped inhabits these islands. it may not be unnecessary here to mention our method of hunting them. the party being ashore, six would enter at one end of those tufts of grass armed, walking through them with a hue and cry; while two would walk on each side; and two stationed at each end; ready to shoot the hog, as soon as he should run out. by this means we were enabled to kill seven hogs, and catch one pig alive. this also contributed to the health of our people; as exercise on land is deemed very salutary and a great preventative, of the scurvy. [23]
2904
2905This place abounds with fowl of various species; such as Geese, of which there are two sorts, both differing from those we have in our country; and which we distinguished by the name of upland and lowland: the lowland geese resembles much the Muscovy Ducks; they living in the water, and feeding on marine substances,
2906
2907-- 178 --
2908have a fishy rancid taste, and were never eat by any of us. while the upland Geese, living on the land, have a fine delicate taste; among these latter we made sad havock. 410 there are also Ducks, (a bird with a red bill, about the size of a Pidgeon, not web footed, which keeps about the shore, feeds on worms, and is called by the sailors, a) Seapie, Shags, Shilldrakes, Albatrosses, Port Egmont hens (which are a very fierce, ravenous birds), Gulls, (which are here in great plenty, they having just brought forth their young, many of which were scarcely fledged.) brown Hawks, Owls, Sparrows, Robins, (which are very tame, I have frequently as I sat on the grass, had several jumping about different parts of me,) etca. etca.
2909
2910As we always had a great plenty of fowl, we never tried for fish: I therefore don't know whether the harbour is blessed with that noble part of the creation. the rocks are covered with large beds of muscles, limputs, etca. etca.
2911
2912In all probability, some vessel has been lost, not long since among these islands; as I saw a cabbin board, and several peices of timber, which was brought on shore, at the backside of the island, by the sea.
2913
2914We had gentle breezes, and pleasant weather, from our leaving Cape Percival, on the evening of the 2d until one in the afternoon, of the 5th when the Island of Statenland, made its appearance, in a south direction, distance about [24] fourteen leagues: at eight the eastermost part of the island, bore southeast and by south, the wesermost south south west; we stood to the south east, with the wind at north. at four the next morning, the southermost land bore south 33° 45' west, and the westermost south 84° 22' west; made all sail and stood to the southward, with a light breeze from the westward. at noon Cape Saint Bartholemew 411 bore, south 56° 15' west, the northermost extreme north and by west, the body of the land, five or six leagues distance; it now became calm, with a large swell from the westward. at eight in the evening the land bore, south 56° 15' west, fourteen leagues distance.
2915
2916At noon on the 7th the body of the Island bore, west north west, twenty leagues distance; my observation gave me 55° 29' south latitude, and longitude 63° 0' 0' west; which makes the latitude of
2917
2918-- 179 --
2919Staten land 54° 44' south, and longitude 64° 10' 0' west, the variation here is 25° 16' east.
2920
2921The western side of this Island, bears a most dreary aspect; the land being high and broken, forming into lofty peaks, many of which are cover'd, with an eternal snow; since our making this land, we have had the winds light and variable, with frequent calms, and a strong current, setting east south east, four miles an hour.
2922
2923With a pleasant gale from the west south west, we stood to the southward; having at sunset, no land in sight.
2924
2925Although the season being far advanced, yet we pushed forward with the greatest alacrity, to encounter the tempestuous weather, which reigns, at this season of the year, in this inhospitable clime; and I believe, never did a deeper laden vessel, ever, attempt to double, this formidable Cape.
2926
2927But we had the winds and weather, much better, than could have been expec-[25]ted, and almost equal, to what we could have wished: having on the 16th at noon got a good offing from the Cape, being in latitude 60° 31' 0' south, longitude 77° 2' 0' west; we set all steering sails, topgallantsails, and royals, and stood to the west north west, with a light breeze from the east south east, and pleasant weather: saw several whales, and black fish; many Albatrosses, Petril, and other birds, flying about the ship; shot two of the former, lowered the jolly boat, and pickt them up.
2928
29291791. March.
2930
2931
2932
2933At noon, on the 1st of March by observation, I was in the latitude of 52° 20' south, longitude 85° 39' 0' west; having, in twenty one days from leaving Staten Island, compleatly doubled Cape Horn; being to the northward, of its northwest boundary; which I conceive to be, the western enterance of the Straits of Magelhaen.
2934
2935We now began, to proceed to the northward and westward fast; the weather daily grew more settled, much warmer, and pleasant.
2936
2937On the 26th we passed in the latitude, of Juan Fernandes and Massafueiro; in which latitude, the weather was most delightful, not too warm in the middle of the day, nor too cool in the evening; but a clear serene air. on the 28th the armourer's forge was erected, to do some ironwork for the ship.
2938
29391791. April.
2940
2941
2942
2943On the 2d of April, in latitude 27° 16' south, we
2944
2945-- 180 --
2946took the south east trade winds; saw several tropic birds, and had many fish about the ship. on the 12th being in latitude 18°0' south, longitude 102°45' west; some of our people thought, they saw land, though we had no signs of any; except a few tropic birds: nor indeed do I know of any land, laid down nigher to us, than Easter island; which is several degrees to the southwd. the 21st 22d and 23d we had many man of war, tropic, boobies, terns and other birds, about the ship: which [26] came in large flocks; saw many turtle, and had an abundance of fish about the ship; which are indications of the vicinity of land; but we saw none. my latitude being at this time from 8°20' to 4°33' south, and from longitude 111°25' to 115°32' west, the nearest land to me, must be of course the Marquesas.
2947
2948On the 23d having some rice up to air, our best she goat, got at it, eat so much that it swel'd in her belly, and caused her death; this was the more grievous, as it depriv'd us of the greatest delicasy, we had in the ship, her milk, which made our tea so much the more palatable. 412
2949
2950At three in the afternoon of the 29th we crossed the Equator, in longitude 120°5' west.
2951
29521791. May.
2953
2954
2955
2956On the 30th and for the eight succeeding days; we had large flocks of man of war birds, tropics, boobies, a brown bird, the size of a booby, terns and a variety of others; also turtle; albacores, bonettas, and other fish; almost constantly about the ship; my latitude during the time, being, from 0°40' to 14°7' north; my longitude from 120°46' to 130°29' west. though these are plain indications, of the proximity of land; we were in hopes of discovering, some new Islands, but as we did not, I am at a loss to account, from whence all these birds came; without it can be admitted, they come from Roco Partida, Los Majos, and other islands; laid down by the Spaniards, and which have not hitherto, been seen by any other nation; and even to admit that; by Captain Cook's chart, they are laid down four degrees and upwards, to the northward of my northermost latitude. 413 As we stood to the northward, we still kept a
2957
2958-- 181 --
2959good look out, for those spanish islands; sailing through the latitude and longitude they are laid down in, in Captain Cook's chart; and I may venture to say, there is no such Islands, in that latitude and longitude.
2960
2961On the 12th of May, we mounted six four [27] pounders on the quarter deck, four six pounders on the forecastle, and ten swisels in the stocks, on the stern and quarters; the armourers and gunners were, at this time, getting the small arms etca. in order, and prepairing the ammunition.
2962
2963On the 20th the scurvy began to make its appearance, 414 on one of the people. The 24th we lost the north east trade winds, in latitude 34°8' north, longitude 136°43' west. at noon on the 27th saw some kelp. The 28th saw several birds, ressembling plovers; six of our people confin'd with the scurvy. The 30th saw several petril.
2964
29651791. June.
2966
2967
2968
2969For some days past, we have had the wind from south south west to south south east, blowing a gentle gale. on the 1st of June, it settled in the south east, and blew fresh, with rain, and thick fog; though from appearance, nothing indicated the vicinity of land; and by our accounts, we were at the distance of eighty or ninety leagues from it; yet at eight in the evening, hove to, with her head to the westward. at four the next morning made sail again; saw several whales, porpoises, a sea otter, and much kelp; the weather still continuing thick and foggy. at eight in the evening, again hove to, head to the westward.
2970
2971At two in the morning of the 3d made sail being in the latitude of 48°43' north nearly in the latitude of our intended port: we stood in ENE for the land; saw wood, kelp, whales etca. at noon I observed in latitude 49°14' north; at four in the afternoon, the object of our wishes, the northwest coast of America, made its appearance, to the eastward. at eight in the evening, shortened sail. at two the next morning, again made sail, and stood in for the land; which at sunrise, we saw in the north east quarter; the wind was light and variable, from west to south south east. at noon the land extended
2972
2973-- 182 --
2974from north by west to east by north; what was [28] suppos'd to be Breakers Point, bore north east by east eight or nine leagues distance: saw much wood, kelp, rockweed, whales and very large sharrks. at seven in the evening, Nootka Sound bore north by west, ten leagues distance. at eight Breakers Point bore north north west five leagues, stood in for the land, with a light breeze, east inclining a little to the south.
2975
2976At four in the morning of the 5th saw the enterance of Clioquot, or Hancock's Harbour as Captain Gray named it, when he discovered it 415 on his former voyage; bearing north east by north, about eight leagues distance; bore away for the enterance. at eight saw several canoes, two of which came alongside; in one of which was a chief, named Cleeshinah; who calls him Captain Hanna, after an english master of a vessel, that has been on this Coast; in the other another cheif, named Tootooch; this Hanna informed us, there was one Spanish ship at Nootka, 416 one sailed from Clioquot ten days ago, for Claheset, 417 one or two at some places we could not understand; he said, Don Martinez had gone home, that no English or American vessel had arrived here this season; we asked him particularly about Captain Kendrick, whom he said had not been here since he left the coast. At two in the afternoon, passed through Wikkananish Roads; 418 and at three, came to anchor with the best bower in seven fathom water, moored ship with the small bower to the south east, when moored, the nighest land about half a mile distant thus are we happily situated, in a fine harbour; when our sick can be recruited, and ship refitted after so long a passage. 419
2977
2978As soon as we entered the Harbour, we were surrounded with canoes, and the ship throng'd with natives; who were permitted to come on [29] board, without distinction, and all appeared equally
2979
2980-- 183 --
2981happy to see us; among others was Wickananish the Chief, his father, several of his brothers, and two sons; and a number of under chiefs, all of whom were cloathed with two or four sea otter skins each; this was a most pleasing sight and the best introduction they could have had; those chiefs were taken to the cabbin and shown our various articles of traffic; but they appear'd quite indifferent about trading; rather wishing to receive our articles of traffic as presents; a little before sunset they left us, with a promise of returning in the morning.
2982
2983I accompanied Captain Gray on shore at the village Opitsitah, 420 (in the jolly boat) which is at present unhabited, and only the framings of the houses standing; it was our intention to have taken a walk through this village; but it was so overgrown with nettles, hogweed, and other greens, that it was impossible to with any comfort; the boats crew were ordered to gather a quantity of those greens for the sick, and in a few minutes they fill'd the boat; these greens are excellent antiscorbutic, were daily gathered, and eaten with avidity by all hands. In the meantime, the pinnace was sent ashore, abreast of the ship, to pitch a tent, and to prepare accommodations for the reception of the sick. The well people were divided into quarter watches by day and by night.
2984
2985First part of the 6th was rainy disagreeable weather; but towards noon, it became more pleasant; the sick were then landed, and a party to guard them; seven of which are in a very advanced state of the scurvy; indeed, their is scarce a person on board the ship but what has felt, more or less, the banefull effects of this [30] dreadfull distemper; this must in a great measure be attributed to our scanty supply of antiscorbutics; to an improper use of what few we had; and to the small attention paid by the commander to the preservation of the health of his people; which on a voyage of this nature is of the greatest consequence. and it is certainly very imprudent, in a commander of such a voyage, to attempt to cross such an immense ocean without stopping at those islands so happily scattered, which successively offer themselves with little deviation from his true course; both in the southern and northern tropics; where may be procured all the conveniences, if not the luxuries, necessary to preserve
2986
2987-- 184 --
2988health, and to sustain life; at little or no expence: had we been obliged to continue at sea a few days longer; we should have inevitably lost several of our people; which would materially have affected the voyage. 421
2989
2990But to return; the Chiefs came, according to their promise yesterday; but none of them could be induced to part with their skins; the lower class of people fetch us fish and leeks, which were purchaised.
2991
2992On the 7th the wind veered to the south east and east south east; and the weather became stormy and disagreeable; notwithstanding which the Chiefs came on board as usual; and this afternoon our traffick comenced; first with Wickananish's father, then with the other Chiefs in succession; but our purchaises were not great, being only twenty two fine skins.
2993
2994Having saved about a peck of potatoes, which we brought from Boston; they were, together with some onions, and seeds of various sorts; given to Tootoocheetticus, the second brother of Wickananish; whom Captain Gray sent ashore to the village of Opitsitah with an [31] officer and a party of our people in the boat to plant them, and shew him the method of cultivation; after being gone about an hour, they return'd; when he appeared to be delighted with this new acquisition and more so with the honor done him. 422 But how great was our surprize the next morning to see those very articles brought to the ship for sale by the lower class of natives; on Tootoocheetticus's comi[n]g aboard and being questioned, he answered; those people did not know he planted them; this seems sufficiently to shew the idle disposition of these people and there present ignorance of cultivation.
2995
2996This rainy disagreeable weather continued until the 10th when the wind came out of the westward, which soon brought fair, settled weather. the carpenters were now sent to cut a jib boom and make it; while the people were employed in putting the rigging in order. On the 11th began to fill up our water; the natives this day brought two Deer which I purchaised; these were made into soup for all
2997
2998-- 185 --
2999hands, especially the sick; who are surprizingly recovered; and to whom it is a most excellent refreshment. though among those who visited us we frequently saw new faces, yet to day we were surprized by a canoe from Nootka, the natives of which confirm'd the account of their being only one Spanish ship there. 423
3000
3001On the 12th the natives brought another Deer, with some fish and leeks, which were purchaised. the whale boat was armed and sent under command of an officer to examine the eastern side of the harbour.
3002
3003The 13th the ship was careened, hogged, and her bends payed. a party was sent on shore to cut wood for fuel.
3004
3005In the morning of the 14th it came on to blow fresh from the west north west with sharp [32] squalls; otherways, the weather was clear and pleasant: the best bower anchor getting fowl, the ship dragged; run out the sheet and stream anchors; weighed the bowers anchors, and again moored ship, with the small bower to the northward, and sheet anchor to the westward. the natives again brought us a Deer which was purchased. Ottoo, our Sandwich island boy, 424 found means to leave the ship and go among the natives. Captain Gray therefore determined to take the first Chief that came along; in the afternoon he ordered the tents to be struck and brought aboard with the sick, who are nearly recovered; so surprizing were the good effects of the land air, fresh provissions, and a vegetables. 425
3006
3007In the morning of the 15th the wooding and watering parties were armed and sent on shore, abreast of the ship, to their seperate duties. the natives did not come to the ship as usual, and the fair sex ceased to entertain me, according to their usual custom at day light every morning previous to this, with melodious songs under my window; these songs were peculiarly pleasing, being sung with that good natured simplicity, which must ever delight. however, at nine o'clock, two canoes with women came to the ship: and in about half an hour after, Tootiscoosettle, the eldest brother of the Chief,
3008
3009-- 186 --
3010passed up the harbour; on being called to, he came alongside, when he was invited on board, but he excused himself, saying he was going to Inistuck, (another of their villages) to kill a Deer for us; but at length, after a considerable intreaty, he was induced to come up the ship's sides; when his heart misgave him, and he returned to his canoe again; finding we appeared to be [33] offended with his conduct; he called and said, if his servant was permitted to come aboard with him, he would come; this, though contrary to custom, was granted, and they came; when they were immediately conducted to the cabbin with two others. Tootiscoosettle was now told, Ottoo was gone to his village; this my gentleman made strange of, appear'd to wonder where he had gone, and denied his having any knowledge of him: until Captain Gray told him, he was his prisoner, and unless Ottoo was immediately delivered up, he would carry him to sea; at this, the Chief was much frightened, asked if we meant to kill him, 426 acknowledged he knew where Ottoo was, and immediately dispatched his servant in a canoe to the village: which was soon seen returning, with several others; hollowing as they came, with Ottoo: it was now necessary, as an example to deter others, who should be guilty of the like in future, that Ottoo should be punished; this as he was a Sandwich islander Captain Gray willingly would have dispensed with. the Chief was ordered to be present at this punishment; 427 and gave to understand that the man who carried Ottoo away, if he was found, would be punished the same; and if in future, any of the people ran away to his village, and he did not immediately send them back; the first Chief that was caught should also be punished; the Chief was now liberated, when he, and all the others in their canoes, left us; nor did we see any canoes stirring, or any come nigh the ship, (though previous to this, we had been constantly surrounded with them,) until eleven o'clock the next day; when Wickananish's father came, and brought two sea otter skins; he was afraid at first to come on board, but after a little intreaty, and many
3011
3012-- 187 --
3013professions of friendship, he came, [34] soon traded, and went off in great haste.
3014
3015Finding the natives grew shy of us, and judging we had pretty well drained them of their skins; having also procured a sufficient stock of both wood and water; a longer tarry in this port became needless: therefore at one in the afternoon, unmoored ship; at two, weighed and came to sail with a fresh breeze from the south west and ebb tide; with which we beat out of the harbor: while beating out, I procured six more skins from the natives; these being added to what we got before, made the whole number of our purchase at this place only one hundred and twelve sea otter skins, twenty five sea otter skin peices, and thirty seven sea otter skin tails: a number far short of what I was taught to expect. Our principal articles of traffick were copper and cloathing; iron they would scarcely take as a gift: for a sheet of copper we got four skins; cloathing in proportion. for small articles, such as knives, buttons, fish hooks, gimblets etca. we procured a few sea otter tails, fish and vegetables.
3016
3017As it is more than probable we shall winter in this harbour; or if not, that we shall visit it several times previous to our leaving the coast; I will therefore forbear, at present, giving any description of the country and its inhabitants: as my knowledge of them is very confined.
3018
3019On our first arrival in this harbor, I was informed by Tootescoosettle that the Spaniards had given up all but one of those English vessels they had taken; 428 that Captain Colinet was here the last season, and wintered here; and Captain Tom, who we suppose to be a Captain Barnard, 429 this Captain Colinet, having sent Captain Hudson, 430 Mr. Temple, and four hands, in a sail boat to Nootka;
3020
3021-- 188 --
3022in their passage thither, [35] they ran on to a ledge of rocks near to Esquot: the boat went to peices, and they were drowned; a few days after, their bodies were found by the natives, taken up, striped, gashed, and thrown out for the crows to devour. this account has also been confirmed by Cleeshinah or Captain Hanna and several other Chiefs; with this addition, that it blew very hard, with a heavy sea, one of which upset the boat; the natives of Esquot 431 seeing it, went off in their canoes to their assistance; but before they got to them, the boats crew were all dead; they picked them up, brought them ashore, and treated them as above related. he also added that after Captain Hudson, with his boats crew, had been gone some time; Captain Colinet hearing nothing of them, sent Mr. Gibson to Nootka to enquire of the Spaniards there about them (I suppose suspecting the Spaniards had detained them;) in a short time Mr. Gibson returned and brought word they were killed by the natives: on hearing of which, Captain Colinet took Tootiscoosettle and Tootooch; at the same time threatning, without the dead bodies were brought in a week for him to see, whether they were killed or not; he would kill those two Chiefs and every native he could find. Cleeshinah says he immediately went to Esquot himself; where the dead bodies were, but being putrified and much eaten by the crows, he did not bring them; but brought all their cloaths: these not being bloody, Captain Colinet was satisfied, released the Chiefs, and made them a present of several sheets of copper, cloathing, etca. etca. but before he returned, he says his people had taken one of Captain Colinet's out of a boat not far from the ship. Since this, I have been informed by Captain Kendrick that it is the opinion of the Spaniards [36] at Nootka; that these people were murdered by the natives; and those of Clioquot were the instigators of it.
3023
3024It was our intention, on sailing from Boston; as soon as we arrived on this Coast, to have built the small vessel we have in frame: but the season being now so far advanced; having a much longer passage than we expected; knowing also that Captain Ingraham sailed from Boston before us; that there were vessells fitting from different parts
3025
3026-- 189 --
3027of the United States; besides what might be on from China, India, and other places; it was therefore my opinion that it would be most prudent, and most for the interest of the owners, to make the best use of what remained of the present season in cruizing; pick up what skins we could, and in the winter, when nothing else could be done, then build the vessel, and it was with this determination that we put to sea on the 16th.
3028
3029Scarce had we cleared the harbor, when the wind came out at south south east; it being necessary to gain an offing before night, we therefore stood to the south west. at eight, Companies bay bore east south east, five leagues, and the enterance of Clioquot, northwest halfwest, two and a half leagues distance. at ten, the wind veered to east south east. at three in the morning of the 17th tackt and stood to the northeast; it was our intention of cruizing the coast between Clioquot and the Straits of de Fuca before we went to the northward; though it was a matter of indifference which we did first; therefore at six, bore away to the westward, and made [37] all sail. at eight Clioquot bore north, distance five leagues. at noon this wind had increased into a strong gale, attended with heavy squalls and thick rainy weather; which soon brought us to our reefs; and at three in the afternoon, when we saw Breakers Point bearing north 67° 30' east, about six leagues distance; we were reduced to our close reef'd main topsail and foresail: under which sail we scudd until midnight; when the gale began to abate.
3030
3031At six in the morning of the 18th the weather having grown more moderate and clear; we found ourselves close in with Cahooquot; 432 made sail and stood along shore to the westward. At eight, abreast of a large Sound called by the natives Chickleset; and by whom Captain Gray was informed on his last voyage there was a good harbour and a plenty of skins; but the weather still wearing an unfavourable aspect; it was not thought prudent to search for it. Woody Point at this time bore west two leagues distance. at noon a large rock off Woody Point, called Split rock, 433 bore east south east, three leagues. at four o'clock, it bore east by south half south eight leagues;
3032
3033-- 190 --
3034and the Islands off Pintard's sound 434 north west by north, seven leagues distance; the wind was now variable, and the weather squally with rain.
3035
3036At midnight, the wind veered round to the westnorthwest. at four in the morning of the 19th the westermost of the Islands of Pintard's sound 435 bore northeast by north: the wind now being a head, and a westerly wind in general, brings fair weather; it was therefore thought to be a good opportunity to search out the harbour at [38] Chickleset sound; accordingly at half past six, tacked ship; made all sail and stood to the eastward; 436 we had no land in sight till eight in the evening; when Split rock was seen bearing east, three or four leagues distance; hove to, head to the southwest, for the night.
3037
3038The morning of the 20th was clear, with a pleasant gale. at two made sail for Chickleset sound. at seven, abreast of its entrance; saw many canoes with natives going out a fishing; hoisted out the pinnace, Mr. Haswell was sent in her, manned and armed, to search for a harbour. at ten, he hoisted the signal for one; stood in for it; but the wind failing, sent the boats ahead to tow. at noon came to anchor with the small bower; moored ship with a hawser out a stern to the trees, and another to the rocks on the larboard bow; the ship in three fathom at low water: thus situated, we are intirely land lock't in an excellent harbour on the west side of the Sound: this harbor was named Columbia's Cove; 437 but we were afterwards informed by the natives that they call it Naspahtee. Captain Gray and myself landed in the Cove; and Mr. Caswell was sent in the pinnace to examine the west side of the Sound; he returned and reported he found several good Coves, but none equal to the one we are in.
3039
3040On the 21st the wind again shifted to the eastward, and brought on stormy, rainey weather: we were visited by the natives, who brought us fish and a few skins.
3041
3042The 22d being a fine day, the pinnace was armed and sent under
3043
3044-- 191 --
3045command of Mr. Haswell to seek for the head village and to examine if there was a good harbour. Mr. [39] Haswell reported; after having crossed the Sound, he met with a canoe, the natives of which inform'd him their head village was in the next Sound; he proceeded as far as the enterance, and saw the village at a distance; finding it not safe for the ship to approach, on account of the many sunken rocks, he proceeded no further: returning by the east side of this Sound, he found a small village called by the natives, Opswis; 438 where if a ship coming into Naspahtee could not fetch, is good shelter.
3046
3047The 23d the carpenters were sent to cut a topgallantmast; a party a wooding and another ahunting; Mr. Caswell had the good fortune to shoot a Deer.
3048
3049Early in the morning of the 24th several natives on board with fish and skins. at ten o'clock I went with the pinnace armed; accompanied by Mr. Smith, 439 to the head village; having crossed the Sound and stopt at the small village Opswis, I proceeded to the next sound; the enterance to which is dangerous the way I went, (it being the same Mr. Haswell did.) on account of the sunken rocks, and the passage being narrow; after passing these rocks and getting into the Sound, I saw another passage to the southward, which appeared to be large and good. I also saw several good harbors, which I intended looking into; but three or four canoes coming from the village; the natives ashore inviting; and its coming on to rain, induced me to go to the village first, in hopes of better weather. but it came on a perfect storm, blowing in heavy squalls with rain, which prevented. I was received [40] at my landing by the old Chief, who conducted me, with Mr. Smith, to his house; seated us by a good fire; offered us to eat and drink of the best the house afforded; which was dried fish of various sorts, roasted clams and muscles; water was our drink, handed in a wooden box, with a large sea clam shell to drink out off; the Chief's son attended me, opened my clams, roasted my fish, and did various other kind offices; in which he was pleased to be employed in. after this entertainment, we were greeted
3050
3051-- 192 --
3052with two songs; in which was frequently repeated the words "Wakush Tiyee awinna," or "welcome travelling Chief." these were sung by a great concourse of natives, who came from all parts of the village to see us, for it is very probable we are the first white people that ever was at their village, and the first many of them ever saw.
3053
3054Finding the natives appeared quite inoffensive; I permitted one half of the people to come to the house at a time to dry themselves; the last half being up, one of them straggling to the back of the house, saw the natives armed and sharpening their spears and daggers. this he immediately informed me of; I then desired Mr. Smith to see the people in the boat and have her got a float; and to let the people stand ready to cover our retreat in case of necessity; but not to show the least signs of fear. in the meantime, I placed myself in a situation so as to observe the motion of the natives. when the boat was ready, I abruptly took leave of the old Chief and his sons; they appeared to be much chagrin'd at my sudden departure, and endeavoured to prevail on me to tarry.
3055
3056On my landing, I gave positive orders to the boats crew, not to offer the least [41] umbrage to the natives: and I verily believe they did not, though no doubt it is too often the case that sailors, when no officer is with them; from their ignorance of the language, either miscomprehend the natives, or the natives them; thus each deeming the other insulted, a quarrel ensues, and the officers who are on shore fall a sacrifice to it. as well in civilized, so in savage goverments; from small causes, great evils spring.
3057
3058If the natives had really meditated an attempt on our lives; it certainly could be for no offence offered by my small party; but may have been to revenge some former injuries received from others, or to possess themselves of our cloaths and arms. be that as it may, even if it was a false alarm; it certainly was not prudent to tarry longer; though by avoiding one danger, the other we were plunging into appeared not less imminent. in the sound it blew a gale; without it, a perfect hurricane, with a mountainous sea, and thick rainy weather. without the sound, we dare not show a rag of sail; but forced to let her drive before the wind and sea: all hands constantly bailing out the water. as though our situation was not yet sufficiently deplorable; a rock just awash, not three yards ahead, made its appearance;
3059
3060-- 193 --
3061expecting there were more, we hauled our wind a little; apparently only to prolong our existance a few moments; expecting every sea would swallow us up: but fortune favoured us, and in a few moments we were clear, and again drove before it; in half an hour, got sight of the Cove, and in a short time arrived on board the ship. thus were we, by a kind providence, most happily delivered from the dangers which but so lately threatned us; and restored again to [42] our friends; whose anxiety was relieved, and whose fears for our safety is easier to be conceived than described.
3062
3063Not having had any natives on board, or seen any canoes, since I was at the village; it was supposed they intended me some harm; or feared we thought so; therefore, at five in the morning of the 26th cast of our fasts, weighed the anchor and warped out of the Cove. at half past twelve, a breeze springing up to the westward, came to sail and stood out to sea.
3064
3065Chickleset or Bulfinch's Sound; as it was named by us in honor of Doctor Thomas Bulfinch, physician of Boston; is situated in the westermost part of Hope Bay, in Latitude [50°7'] longitude [127°55'] in it are many fine coves; which will afford shelter to vessels of considerable burthen; where also is wood and water plenty and convenient.
3066
3067The land about the sound is high and mountainous; well covered with trees to its summits; on some of the hills many of the trees are dead; and on others are a few barren spots; which gives them an uncomfortable appearance. there are three sorts of pine; spruce, hemlock, crab apple, alder and a hard red wood; our wooding party also found on the shores several logs of ash and maple. which is a proof there is hard wood growing here, and possibly there may be oak, back in the country. the woods are full of berry bushes of different sorts; on the shores grow samphire and scurvy grass.
3068
3069The animals which inhabit this sound, I know not; having only seen a few deer, two or three wolves of a dark grey colour, one or two seals and a raccoon. the skins brought [43] for sale being principally sea otter. the birds seen by us were shags, gulls, pigeons, king fishers and robbins. their fish which was brought for sale, as we never caught none ourselves, were a sort of cod, red snappers, herrins, sardines, hallibut and a small silver bream.
3070
3071-- 194 --
3072The only inhabited part of the sound is the small village on the eastern side, called Opswis; which I suppose contains about twenty or thirty inhabitants: no doubt, various other parts of the sound are occasionally inhabited; as they appear to have no abiding place; but move about as fancy or inclination suggests. The head village is in the next sound, where the Chief resides, and is the one I visited; it is situated on an island, (on the north east side of which is a deep sound) at the bottom of a small bay or cove; the village consists of about thirty houses; which contain between two and three hundred inhabitants. besides this, there are two or three other villages scattered about the sound; whether they are subject to the same Chief or not, I don't know. it is impossible for me to form any kind of judgement of the number of this tribe; having had only a few visitors, them but seldom, and rarely a new face; from the same cause I am unacquainted with their domestick life, or even utensils, having only seen a square wooden box. 440
3073
3074About their houses they are as filthy 441 as they are about their persons; and what adds not a little to it, is the multiplicity of dogs, which are of the fox breed.
3075
3076These people are rather short of stature, with round full visages, their noses flattening at the base; large mouth and thick lips: their bodies are in general covered with grease and red ochre; their faces [44] variously painted; sometimes of two or three different colours; others again only of one; as red, white, or black; according to their different fancies.
3077
3078Their most common dress is a mantle made of a flaxen substance: some indeed wear the skin of some animals thrown over it. Their head dress is a small cap or a withe; their hair in general hangs loose, though one or two had it divided into small parcels about the size of your little finger; clotted together with grease and red paint, and hanging, like so many tails, to the ground; their heads and garments constantly swarm with vermin: the septum of the nose and lobe
3079
3080-- 195 --
3081of the ear is perforated; in which are hung leathern thongs, peices of Iron, copper etca.
3082
3083In their dealings they are exceeding fair; though it was necessary to keep a good look out to prevent their pilfering. our articles of traffick were principally copper and cloathing; iron was more valuable than at Clioquot; trifling articles were also in demand. 442
3084
3085At noon, as I before observed, we stood out to sea. at three in the afternoon, having a good offing, we stood to the south east. at eight, saw breakers point bearing south 84°22' east; the south extreme of the land in sight south 73°7' east; and Nootka Sound north north east, seven leagues distance; our course was east south east, with a moderate breeze.
3086
3087In the morning of the 27th the course was altered to east by south. at five, saw Clioquot bearing north north east, two or three leagues distance. at noon, it bore north west ten miles; my latitude by observation 49°3', saw many canoes, belonging to Wickananish's village, returning from fishing; there being a heavy swell, none came to the ship. at three [45] in the afternoon, passed a large village situated on a high rock. no canoes coming of, we did not stop. at four, abreast of Companies Bay. at eight, shortened sail, and lay of and on under the topsails for the night; a very heavy cross sea agoing; Nittenat, a village so named, bore east, four or five leagues distance. 443
3088
3089The wind was light and flattering on the morning of the 28th with a heavy swell. at five, a canoe with ten men came alongside; she was from Nittenat, bound a whaling; 444 the natives requested us to go to their village; saying, as an inducement, there was a plenty of skins; no sooner were they informed that was our intention, than they returned to the village with the news of our arrival. it was two in the afternoon before we were enabled to get in with the land: when the village was between two and three miles distance; several canoes came of, in one of which was Cassacan the Chief and his
3090
3091-- 196 --
3092Lady. the natives tarrying with us until evening; the ship laying to; during which time several very valuable skins were purchased for copper and cloathing; also a few fine hallibut for trifles: we then made sail, crossing the (what Captain Cook calls pretended) straits of Juan de Fuca 445 for Tootooch's island.
3093
3094The village Nittenat lies in the latitude of 48°40' north, longitude 124°6' west; it has no harbour or any other shelter before it; and is only rendered remarkable by a large cataract or water fall a few miles to the northward of it.
3095
3096Cassacan we found troubled with the venereal to a great degree. this is the more remarkable as hitherto we have found the women exceeding modest; nothing could even tempt them to come on board the ship; and here they appear the same; [46] this at first induced me to believe it was a disorder prevalent among them; but on questioning Cassacan, he says sometime since a vessel came to this place; to the Captain of which he sold a female prisoner or slave girl for several sheets of copper: on the vessels going away, the girl was sent ashore; he afterwards cohabited with the girl, who shortly after died; caught the fatal disease and communicated it to his wife; who, he says, has it equally as bad as himself: thus this most banefull disorder will e'er long prove fatal to this pair, and possibly spread throughout the village; making the most dreadful destruction: we dressed Cassacan, but he would not permit us to, his wife; and gave him several medicines; which he received most thankfully. Cassacan has also had the small pox; of which his face bears evident marks. 446 Infamous Europeans, a scandal to the Christian name; is it you, who bring and leave in a country with people you deem savages the most loathsome diseases? Oh, miserable inhabitants! you, by being in a state of nature, are considered as savages; but from your intercourse with men who dare call themselves civilized have you not become more wretched than the beasts of the forest? where is your native happiness? you so long uninterruptedly enjoyed. is it not gone? never, never more to return.
3097
3098-- 197 --
3099On the morning of the 29th Tootooch's island 447 bore east south east, seven leagues distance; many canoes from the village bound a fishing; one of which was dispatched to [47] inform the Chief of our arrival. at four in the afternoon, several canoes came of with skins; a brisk trade ensued, which lasted until late. The next morning, saw a vast number of canoes, bound out a fishing; in one of which was Tootooch the Chief; who came on board and requested us to tarry until the evening; as he said fish was very plenty now, and he, as an example to others, must go to catch them himself, therefore till then he could not spare time; when he would fetch of many skins: but in this he deceived us, for few were purchased, and none of him.
3100
3101At noon, Tootiscoosettle came on board: he had just come from Clioquot in a large canoe with four masts; 448 bound to Tootooch's island, a trading. I believe this man was of no service to us; for had he not have came here; I have reason to think Tootooch would have kept his word. The canoes which went a fishing this morning caught an incredible number of fish, principally hallibut; of which we partook a part; these people go a great distance, as much as ten or twelve leagues to sea a fishing: and it is only in such pleasant weather as this they can do that: which as it [is] their principal dependance for a stock of provissions, is at times precarious; no doubt this in some measure accounts for their not being willing to part but with a small share of the fish they catch.
3102
3103July.
3104
3105
3106
3107At six in the morning of the 1st of July, many canoes came from the [48] villages; among others was Tootooch; several good skins were purchased, none of him; but still more were carried away by those who brought them: for Tootooch would not let them sell at even their own price; this being the case, it was not necessary to stay here any longer; but to make the best of our way to the northward. at halfpast three in the afternoon, with the wind at west, we made sail to beat out of the straits; stretching over towards Patchenat.
3108
3109-- 198 --
3110Tootooch's Island is a small, low green island on the eastern side of the enterance of the straits of Juan de Fuca; on it is a large village; which affords a number of fine skins: the natives here, many of them, wore a garment which appeared to be made of wool and hair; mostly white, 449 it appear'd to be, well fabricated, and I suppose, by themselves. copper and cloathing were our articles of commerce.
3111
3112Being abreast of Nittenat, on the morning of the 2d four canoes came of; a few skins were purchased, but Cassacan, discovering a churlish disposition, after tarrying on board three hours, would not sell his skins: but carried them of, though he was offered a considerable more than he demanded for them. such behaviour in those two Chiefs, Tootooch and Cassacan, was sufficient to tire the patience of any man: but when these peoples ignorance was considered, it appeared better to put up with such small things than by showing the least resentment, cause a quarrel.
3113
3114After the canoes left us, we stood out to sea. at noon, Nittenat bore north by west half west, three leagues distance; when [49] we stood along shore to the westward; our course being west by north. at six, Nittenat bore north east by north four leagues; and Cape Flattery south east by east, ten leagues distance; we now had a fresh gale from the eastward, with drizzling rain, which continued until four o'clock in the afternoon of the next day, when it became calm.
3115
3116At two in the morning of the 4th a breeze sprang up at west north west; got the tacks aboard, and stood to the south west: the weather had now become pleasant. at daylight, saw the land ranging from north east to west by north; we had many whales playing about the ship. at six Nootka sound bore north north east, twelve leagues distance, my latitude by observation at noon was 49°3' north, 450 longitude 127°11'.
3117
3118We continued the same course until four in the afternoon; when we tack'd and stood in north north east for the land; the wind having veered to the north west. at eight, saw the land bearing north, distance about twelve leagues. at eleven, again tack't ship to the westward.
3119
3120-- 199 --
3121at four the next morning, saw the land ranging from east north east to north west. at noon, tack't ship, and stood to the northward; latitude by observation 48°56' longitude 128°18' west. 451
3122
3123At midnight it was clam. at three in the morning of the 6th a light breeze sprang up at east south east; made all sail and stood to the westward. at ten, it veered to the southwest, and blew a strong gale; which soon reduced us to our close reefs. latitude at noon, 49°34' north, longitude 127°50'0' west; in the afternoon, the wind hauled [50] more to the southward; when the gale abated. but at midnight the wind again veered to the east south east, and the weather grew exceeding tempestuous; attended alternately with heavy squalls and dark rainy weather. at six in the morning, it became more moderate; so that at noon we had all sail set; latitude 51°3' north, longitude 130°10' west. at six in the afternoon, saw the south end of Washington's Island bearing north north west, distance eight or ten leagues. at eight shortened sail for the night.
3124
3125At three in the morning of the 8th it was calm; when we saw the enterance of Barrell's Sound 452 bearing north north east, three leagues distance. at four, a light breeze sprang up from the eastward, with which we made sail and stood into the Sound. at eight, came to anchor with the small bower in twenty fathoms water over a rocky bottom. 453
3126
3127Our situation being by no means an eligible one. at nine Mr. Haswell was sent in the pinnace up the Sound in search of a more commodious and better sheltered anchoring place: at one in the afternoon, he returned; having found a better, about three miles farther up. at two, weighed and stood up the Sound; and at three, cast anchor in fifteen fathoms over a muddy bottom; moored ship with the two bowers, head and stern; when moored, the western shore was about a furlong distance: the eastern, two miles, and the village, south east six miles. 454
3128
3129-- 200 --
3130When we first cast anchor in the Sound; we were visited by about twenty natives, men, women, and children in two canoes, most of whom recollected Captain Gray; both men and women came on board [51] the ship without the least reserve: this is the first time since we have been on the coast that women have been aboard; some of them having their under lip perforated, and a peice of oval wood thrust into the incision: 455 they were always ready and willing to gratify the amorous inclinations of any who wish it; but Captain Gray very prudently forbid any of the ship's company having any connections with those women.
3131
3132On Coyah the chief's being asked for, we were informed by several of the natives, particularly a woman, who was very intelligible: that Captain Kendrick was here sometime ago in a vessel with one mast, and lately in one with two; that he took Coyah, tied a rope round his neck, whipt him, painted his face, cut off his hair, took away from him a great many skins, and then turned him ashore: Coyah was now no longer a Chief, but an "Ahliko," or one of the lower class; they have now no head Chief, but many inferior Chiefs. how much credit is to be given to this story, when it is considered our knowledge of their language is so very superficial as scarcely to be understood but by signs: and from Captain Kendrick's well known disposition, who has hitherto treated these people more like children than an ignorant race of savages; it must therefore be supposed Captain Kendrick has been provoked by these peoples conduct to punish their Chief. 456
3133
3134A little after sunset, when most of the canoes were gone, Coyah himself came aboard; he appeared glad to see us, he said Captain Kendrick was good, had been here lately, shewing a blue coat and some blue nankin cloth that he gave him: he [52] said, also, that a Captain Barnard 457 was here four days ago; to whom all their skins were sold; but if we would wait a few days, they would ketch us
3135
3136-- 201 --
3137some; his tarry was short, he appeared to be much frightened, being in a constant tremor the whole time: he departed with a promise of returning again in the morning; but we never saw him afterwards.
3138
3139The next day the pinnace was sent to survey the Sound. several canoes visited us, of whom was purchased five sea otter skins; one of which was just killed, and they skun on board; it was quite a small one: there were also purchased a few fine halibut.
3140
3141In the forenoon of the 10th I accompanied Captain Gray in the pinnace to the head of the Sound; 458 which is about three or four miles from the ship, where we found a fine meadow; containing several acres, of part salt and part fresh; here is good red and white clover seed and other grass, some tobacco plants, 459 wild cellery, etca. this is the largest spot of cleared land any of us have seen on the Coast.
3142
3143Not having been visited by the natives since the 9th at nine in the morning of the 12th unmoored ship, weighed, came to sail with the ebb tide, and endeavoured to beat out of the sound; but after making several boards, the wind being so directly a head and light, and the tide running, but with little force; we were obliged at noon to again cast anchor but little a head of the place from whence we weighed: the ship was moored head and stern with the small bower and stream anchor.
3144
3145The next day the weather was rainy and disagreeable, with a fresh breeze; this however did not prevent the natives [53] from visiting us in a few canoes: among others was the Chief of a tribe on the eastern side of the Island, named Ugah; of whom one skin was purchased; this Chief, and the people in his canoe, are the only strangers we have seen since our arrival in the Sound. 460
3146
3147The weather being so very stormy that most of the natives who visited us yesterday took up their abode ashore, abreast of the ship: curiosity induced me to visit their habitations; which was the most
3148
3149-- 202 --
3150wretched that is possible to be conceived of; it was formed by three poles lash'd fast to the trees, going on a slant, covered with large sheets of hemlock bark; but open on all sides, not room to stand, and scarce sufficient to set upright: in the front was a fire, which served both to keep them warm and for cooking their provissions. thus were these miserable people almost smothered in smoke, barely sheltered from the inclemency of the weather, and crowded together in a small hovel (if so it may be called) men, women and children, without distinction, to the number of twelve. 461
3151
3152Since the 13th the weather had been very stormy. at noon on the 16th the wind shifted to the westward, which soon brought clear, pleasant weather. at two weighed, came to sail and stood down the Sound; having got down about a mile and a half, the tide swept us towards some rocks; which oblig'd us to cast anchor, when the ship's stern swung over a reef, we being not a stones throw from the shore; run out the kedge and hawser, weighed the anchor, and warped off shore, weighed the kedge, and shot off under the stay sails near to the middle of the stream, where we [54] again came to with the small bower in twenty four fathom water, over a bottom of shells and mud: luckily, there was little or no send; therefore our ship did not strike, consequently did no other damage than alarm us for the time.
3153
3154This Sound, which is called by the natives Congethoitoy; and by Captain Gray, on his former voyage, Barrell's Sound; in honor of Joseph Barrell Esquire of Boston; the principal owner and promoter of this voyage: is situated in Washington's Islands, about six leagues from the southermost extreme, in a north west direction; in latitude 52°[8'] north, longitude 131°[5'] west. there is two passages into this Sound, the one on the eastern, the other on the western side of the island; which makes the south part a seperate island. 462 the eastern passage is dangerous, having many sunken rocks in its channel; the tide also here runs with considerable force; though there are several small coves w[h]ere a vessel may find shelter. the western passage is
3155
3156-- 203 --
3157much the best, being clear; nor should I advise any vessel to go so far up the Sound as we did; but to run in behind an island, just at the entrance, on his starboard hand: there cast anchor before the village; 463 where he will find from ten to fifteen fathoms water over a sandy bottom. Captain Gray's objection to this place was; if it should come on to blow, and the ship drag, he would not have time to purchase his anchor and make sail: for as soon as you open out clear of the island, you first get a rocky bottom, and then none with one hundred fathom. but he afterwards altered his opinion, and thought [55] it much more eligible than w[h]ere we lay. there is a good passage either side of the island, so that a vessel may at any time put to sea. there are several small islands scattered about the Sound; particularly one in the western passage, or rather a huge barren rock, which is almost constantly covered with shags and gulls.
3158
3159The land about the sound is in general of a moderate heighth; though there is some tolerably level, and back in the country some high hills made their appearance at times: the shores are of a craggy black rock: the trees are of various sorts of pine, with spruce, hemlock and alder, intermixt with small brush, several sorts of shrubs, currant, whortle, and other berry bushes; a few wild red and white rose bushes; and two or three sorts of fern; among the rocks are some strawberry vines. it was here I saw some trees of an incredible size; the largest of which measured ten fathoms in circumference; on one side was a hole cut, sufficiently large to enter by stooping a considerable; within was a spacious room, which appeared to be part dug, and part burnt out; I suppose this to be occasionally inhabited by travelling natives; as I found a mat, box and some other domestic utensils with fire works and dried wood within the room. this must have been a work of time, though now compleated, is very handy and convenient.
3160
3161This tribe, when Captain Gray first visited it in the Washington, in the summer of 1789, 464 was large and powerful; had many skins. but they are now dwindled to a few, as we did not see more than fifty [56] different faces while here. this I think must be owing to
3162
3163-- 204 --
3164the disturbance between them and Captain Kendrick: as their Chief has lost his power; it is possible his people have moved off to other tribes; or it may be the whole tribe have taken up their abode in some more favorable quarter. the seperating of them may also be attributed to some other cause; such as internal broils among themselves, or a more powerful tribes conquering them.
3165
3166Those of the natives seen by us were in general of the middle stature; though there were some who exceeded it, and some below; particularly Coyah the chief, who was a little diminutive savage looking fellow as ever trod. though the countenances of many of them were the same; yet for the most part they were very open; particularly the women, who were really affable. as far as it respected us, they appeared to be an inoffensive, good people; but if I may hazard a conjecture, they were not, as far as it respected Captain Kendrick; who no doubt, by punishing them, brought them into this humble state. it is impossible almost to ascertain the colour of their bodies, for though they don't paint them, yet they are covered with dirt and grease; most of them indeed had their faces painted black, and hair cut short; this, I have since been informed, is practised in mourning for the loss of any of their Chiefs or relations, or any other calamity; having prevailed one day on a woman to have her face washed; when she discovered a pure glow of red and a perfect white; 465 one of the most delightful countenances my eyes ever beheld; indeed she was [57] a perfect beauty. from this specimen, we may believe these people to be white. this woman went into her canoe, and soon return'd again, with her face as black as ever; having been laughed at by her companions for having it washed. what a pity it is, these people delight so much in filth and nastiness; which to them no doubt is an ornament.
3167
3168Their dress is a sort of mantle, made of various skins; such as the sea otter, sable, racoon, and some others, 466 so mutilated as not to be
3169
3170-- 205 --
3171known; also, european cloth and clothing, on which they have sewed in various directions as fancy or fashion suggests buttons, thimbles, china cash, peices of shells, etca. in this dress they have truly a grotesque appearance; there is another garment, which seems peculiar to the women; this is a thin leather frock, reaching a little below the knees, with sleeves, and tied under the chin; sometimes they are edged with a strip of sea otter skin: they also have a flaxen garment, 467 similar to those seen at Chickleset, which they put on at times over the leathern one. on their heads they wear a sort of a shallow, wicker work cap; this is tied under the chin. they have no covering for their legs and feet.
3172
3173The ornaments most common are beads of various sorts, particularly the blue glass bead, of which they appear to be fond; buttons, shells, etca. etca. which they wear in large bunches round their necks; though these are peculiar to the females; yet there is another, if an ornament it can be called, the lip peice I before mentioned; 'tis not common for all to wear this, nor is it, as far as I could learn, any badge of distinction; for both the [58] chief and lower class of women wore them. this incissions seems to be made when the children are young; in the orifice is inserted a peice of copper wire, which keeps it sore and as they grow older, it is extended more and more; till it frequently becomes four inches in length, of a perfect oval, hollowed on each side, with a rim round its edge, to fit more firmly in the aperture: it is frequently inlaid with pearl shell, copper, etca. though these large lip peices are most common to those advanced in years; yet I have seen some old women with peices not bigger than the top of your finger. how frequently have I thought of the hardship of the curse denounced on woman by God Almighty in the Garden of Eden. but when I saw this lip peice, I could not help exclaiming against this second curse practised by man.
3174
3175The men always wear an iron dagger in a leather case round their neck; some of which are double, so as to strike with either end. woulded round the handle with leather, and a leather thong to fasten it round the wrist when they are going to fight; these are always kept very sharp and bright: no other weapon did I see among them;
3176
3177-- 206 --
3178though no doubt they have; save a few bows and arrows, which did not appear by any means calculated for war or defence.
3179
3180Their principal dependance for food is on the sea; where they procure fish of different sorts; such as whale, large peices of which I have seen them eating in their canoes; which would emit a stench sufficient to make any of us sick; yet they devoured it with a most surprizing avidity. they also [59] get sharks, which are here very large; 468 porpoises, halibut, a kind of cod, etca. clams, limputs, muscles and other shell fish. they eat the flesh of seals, sealions, sea otters, and the various animals and birds the woods afford. they also eat the inner rind of a bark, boiled or stewed; which we took to be hemlock; the different sorts of fern roots, etca. in fact, nothing appeared to come amiss, all was devoured with equal indifference, cooked or uncooked. the men chew tobacco in its green state, with which they mix a white substance ressembling lime; they put quids of this plant into their mouths as big as an hens egg. 469 their drink is oil and fresh water; sometimes I have seen them take large draughts of salt water from alongside; whether this was to quench thirst, or taken as a medicine, I know not.
3181
3182As none of us ever visited them at their village; their domestic life is almost totally unknown to us. the utensils which have been seen in their canoes are wooden boxes and bowls of various shapes, neatly made, with human an[d] animal figures carved on them; and some very clever wicker work't baskets. in those wooden boxes they cook their provissions; which is done by heating stones, one person with a split stick putting in hot stones, and another taking them out as fast as they cool. in this way, they boil their water and make their fish and animal food into soups, etca. when done, it is taken up and put in bowls and distributed round to the family. their clams, muscles, and other shell fish are roasted, and eaten with oil as sauce. they have scoops, the one large, which holds about half a [60] pint,
3183
3184-- 207 --
3185is white, and used to dip the soup out of the wooden boxes in to the bowls; the other is black, about the size of a common table spoon; this is used to eat with: they are neatly wrought, with human figures carved on the handle, and inlaid with copper. these were supposed by some of our gentlemen to be made of whale bone; and as I know of no horn sufficiently large to have been discovered on any part of this coast, I think it is very probable it may be. 470
3186
3187Cooking is here the province of the women, in which they are very clean. the women also make their various garments, which are sewed together; the female having a number of sharp bones of various sizes, according to the fineness of the work; with one of these she makes a hole, then with the intestines of some animal, neatly twisted into a thread, she puts through it, and so continues to do till the work is done: thus, in this simple manner, is this work performed, and with a neatness, I may say elegance, that would not disgrace ladies in a more civilized country. the skins are all cleaned by the women; which are first scraped with a knife, or clam shell, and then rubbed with the ruf side of the star fish; keeping it well wet with fresh water; this operation is continued to be performed until the skin is sufficiently stretched, when it is left to dry.
3188
3189Their principal amusements are singing and dancing; both of which they are extravagantly fond of; they have among them a game similar to our card playing; which is performed with a number of small sticks, about four inches long, and the size of your little finger; neatly made, variously [61] painted to distinguish them, and frequently inlaid with copper, shells, etca. at this game they sometimes play very high, and with great good humour. 471
3190
3191Their canoes are dug out of one log, with a narrow peice of board sewed round the upper edge, the head and stern nearly alike, they are frequently painted with a variety of fancy figures. the largest I saw carried fifteen men, women, and children with their travelling baggage and provissions very comfortably. their paddles are about
3192
3193-- 208 --
3194five feet long, and shaped some little similar to our oars; with these there canoes paddled very heavy.
3195
3196In trade they dealt very honestly; nor did they discover any signs of a thievish disposition. our principal articles of traffick were chizzels, or rather peices of Iron, rufly formed into a similar shape. the women in trade, as well as in every thing else, which came within our knowledge, appeared to govern the men; 472 as no one dare to conclude a bargain without first asking his wife's consent; if he did, the moment he went into his canoe, he was sure to get a beating. this I have seen to be the case more than once, and there is no mercy to be expected without the intercession of some kind female.
3197
3198Besides the fish and animals before mentioned; they have a variety of birds, such as wild turkies, 473 geese, and ducks; these are in no great abundance, the white headed eagle, herons, a black sea pie, with a red bill, ressembling those seen at Falkland Islands; shags, gulls, king fishers, etca. etca.
3199
3200At three in the morning of the 17th we weighed and came to sail with the [62] ebb tide. at six, we were clear of the sound; it being our intention to go farther to the northward, and the wind being a head, we stretched of on our tacks to the southwest. at noon, the south extreme of the islands 474 bore east, eight or ten leagues distance; tack'd ship and stood to the northward. from this to the 21st the wind continued to blow from northwest to west, with a clear, good weather; when it veered to the west southwest and became rainy, with a thick fog. at half past five in the afternoon, standing in for the land, the fog cleared a little, when it was seen bearing northwest by north, a quarter of a mile distance, and a large rock between us and the shore. (at seven Barrell's Sound bore north 67° 30' east, distance about six leagues.) wore ship, made all sail, and stood of to gain an offing. but before we could [gain] one sufficient, the wind (at ten in the evening) veered to the south west; having room only to make a short stretch up shore to the northward; we were obliged to stand
3201
3202-- 209 --
3203to the southward, by which we lost more ground than we had gained since we came out. at ten the next morning, it again shifted to the westnorthwest; during the continuance of the wind at south west, it blew a strong gale, with heavy squalls and rain.
3204
3205At noon by observation we were in latitude 51° 40' north, longitude 131° 24' West. at three in the afternoon bore away, and stood round the south end of the islands in hopes of meeting with better success on the eastern side. 475 at seven the south extreme of the islands bore west three leagues distance; of this part of the island are several smaller islands or rocks, and some under water; it is therefore necessary to give it a good birth. 476 we observed the variation by an azimuth to be 20° 22' east. 477 [63]
3206
3207During the night we had light and pleasant weather heard the cutting of wood at a distance which sounded as if on a vessels deck when the lanthorns were ordered to be hoisted at four the next morning (the 23d) the south extreme of the land bore south by east six leagues distance at half past five saw a sail to the northward which by her signals we soon discovered to be the Hope of Boston Joseph Ingraham commander 478 when at a short distance he welcomed us with three cheers which was immediately returned the Hope hove to under our lee when the jolly boat was sent for Captain Ingraham who came on board and inform'd us that after stopping at St. Jago's one of the Cape de Verde islands he proceeded to Falklands islands being forced to leeward by the constant westerly winds he put into the Spanish settlement on the eastern side of the islands where after undergoing a proper examination he was treated by the Spaniards with the greatest hospitality who brought on board
3208
3209-- 210 --
3210all his water in their own boats presented him with a bullock and the various other refreshments he wanted then told him to depart thus by this kind assistance of the Spaniards was he soon dispatched having tarried only four days.
3211
3212From this he had a good passage round Cape Horn which he compleated in six days he touched at the Marquisseas islands where he procured a supply of hogs and vegetables the natives of these islands to use Captain Ingraham's own words "are as much handsomer particularly the women than the natives of Sandwich Islands as the women of Boston are [64] handsomer than a Guinea negro." after leaving this he discovered a group of Islands which he named [ ] Islands 479 he afterwards stopt at the Sandwich islands running along the north side of Owhyhee into Toeyahyah Bay w[h]ere he got a good supply of hogs and vegetables.
3213
3214A man by the name of Ridley who was Captain Kendrick's carpenter and left at this Island by him when he went to China in December 1789 found means to get on board Captain Ingraham this man laid open as horrid and savage a scene as was ever heard of Captain Metcalf having been for some time on the Northwest coast of America in a Brig belonging to Newyork in company with a small Schooner commanded by his son was returning to China in his passage thither he stopt at these Islands where the Natives attempted to take him but luckily they did not succeed but this good fortune did not attend his son who arrived at Owhyhee in the small schooner shortly after when he was visited by the Chiefs Tommahommahoy and Tianna the latter of whom presented young Captain Metcalf with a feathered cap and cloak stood behind him putting it on to appearance with the greatest friendship and extolling the beauty of it in the midst of this seeming friendship he took him up in his arm and cast him into the sea where the natives in the canoes along side with their paddles soon put an end to his existance one of his people immediately snapped a pistol at Tianna this man was also killed the rest were fastened with their faces towards the deck and beat them most unmercifully they agreed however to spare [65] their lives provided they would navigate the schooner
3215
3216-- 211 --
3217against another of the Islands the tribe of which they are at war with these unfortunate men to save their lives in hopes of some future opportunity of getting away agreed and the schooner together with many hundred canoes is now employed in butchering their brethren of the other Islands old Captain Metcalf expecting his son had tarried at this island and at the time this horrid deed was perpetrating he was only a few miles to leaward. 480
3218
3219Captain Ingraham's stay at these islands was short as he suspected the natives meant to attack him but being acquainted with their dispositions (which unfortunately for young Captain Metcalf that he was not) he took every necessary precaution to prevent a surprize his passage from thence to this Coast which he made in the latitude of 52° 20' north was good being only twenty four days he arrived the first of July it being a much longer passage from Boston than we had after tarrying on board some time congratulating each other on our safe arrival on the Coast and expressing a happiness much easier to be conceived than described on the meeting of friends in perfect health in a savage country returned on board his own vessel and we parted with three cheers each steering a different course. 481
3220
3221Three canoes with natives came alongside in one of which was Ugah a chief who visited us in Barrell's Sound of whom one skin was purchased at noon our latitude by observation was 52° 24' north longitude 131° 4' west supposing ourselves near a shoal that runs from this island we sounded but got [66] no bottom with fifty fathom of line we now stood over north for the Continent the extremes of Washingtons islands from north north west to south 6° 0' west.
3222
3223At noon on the 24th saw Hatche's Island 482 bearing north my latitude by observation 53° 4' north longitude 130° 0' west at five close in with the land the wind having veered so far to the northward
3224
3225-- 212 --
3226that we fetch'd to leaward of what we expected tack'd ship and stood to the southward at eight the northermost rocks bore northwest by north the southermost south at ten shortened sail and tackt to the northward with an intention of plying to windward through the straits.
3227
3228At one the next morning sounded and got bottom with a line of one hundred and ten fathoms at two again sounded and found bottom with one hundred and twenty fathoms at three made sail at noon not having gain'd any to windward bore away and stood to the southward steering east south east at one hoisted out the pinnace Mr. Haswell was sent in her armed within the ship along shore in search of a village at half past three a stragling canoe with two natives came along side of which three sea otters just killed were purchased for a jacket and a knife these men informed us their village was through a passage between some islands ahead then turn to the northward the ship hove to and the pinnace was dispatch'd to find the village at eight she returned when Mr. Haswell reported he went through the passage between the islands when he opened a large Bay several leagues over there was a large sound stretching to the northward which he went up some way and saw many leagues farther but no village or sine of any [67] it growing late he prosecuted his discoveries no further he also said, where he had been there was no place he thought prudent for the Ship to attempt to enter the Bay the pinnace was hoisted in made sail off shore making short boards all night at two the next morning stood in for the land at seven being within two miles hove to in hopes some of the natives might come of to us but we were disappointed as none made their appearance at eleven made sail and again attempted to beat to windward at noon observed the latitude to be 53° 6' north longitude 129° 40' west the enterance between the Islands into the Bay bore north east by north four leagues distance its latitude is therefore 53° 12' north longitude 129° 24' west the south point of land east south east six leagues distance its latitude 52° 54' north longitd. 129° 20' west. 483
3229
3230Having made little or no progress to the northward since the
3231
3232-- 213 --
323326th and it being a very pleasant day it was determined to have further search made in the Bay Mr. Haswell entered three days ago the pinnace was therefore sent on the morning of the 28th with eight men well armed under the command of Mr. Caswell with orders to find the village if possible there were several articles of our traffick sent in the boat that in case he should fall in with the village or natives he might be enabled to procure skins.
3234
3235At noon my latitude was 53° 14' north at four in the afternoon I accompanied Captain Gray ashore abreast of the ship we saw several places that would afford shelter for small vessels the shore is almost one continued mass of rocks we landed on the banks of a small fresh water rivulet which we traced about half a mile we saw some fowl such [68] as brants, shags, divers etca. but so amazing shy we could not get a shot at them after rambling about for some time we returned on board.
3236
3237At eight the pinnace returned was hoisted in and we made sail Mr. Caswell informed he entered the Bay between two islands which he ran across it being six leagues over to the southwest he saw out to sea a head was a large sound which he supposes he saw six leagues up but did not see the head another at the same time presented itself to the northward this being the one the natives said the village was he ran up it with a fair wind ten or twelve leagues and saw as much farther it bending almost imperceptibly to the westward he seeing no village or native nor vestige of any return'd not thinking it prudent with so little prospect of advantage to go a greater distance from the ship 484 It is I think very probable this may be a large straits which empties itself some distance to the northward making all this front land a large cluster of Islands nor is this far from the situation in which the Straits of Admiral de Fonte 485 are laid down we found the variation here to be 21° 35' by an azimuth.
3238
3239The weather now became rainy and squally without any alteration in the wind until the 30th during which time we continued to ply we now stretched over for the islands which at four in the
3240
3241-- 214 --
3242morning we saw extending from south by west to west by north seven or eight leagues distance the wind became very light and variable with intervening calms at eleven a light breeze came from the south east with which we [69] stood along shore to the northward at one in the afternoon two canoes with twelve men came of one of which was a Chief named Comsuah he brought no skins with him but said he had plenty at his village and requested us to go in and anchor we stood in towards the village till six when the pinnace was hoisted out and Mr. Haswell was sent in her to seek a harbour he found one well sheltered from the northerly but open to a southerly wind 486 at sunset the natives left us with a promise of returning again in the morning with skins if we would wait at ten in the evening it became calm when we came to with stream anchor and hawser in twenty four fathom water over a muddy bottom three miles distance from the land the night was calm and rainy.
3243
3244At day light heard a singing of the natives and shortly after saw two canoes at a great distance coming in from sea at eight they came along side when the natives in them informed [us] they saw us on the main and had followed us over they sold us a few skins and then went to Comsuah's village 'tis very probable these natives belonged to the same tribe with those that sold us the three sea otters a few days since this however seems to be a convincing proof that there is a trade carried on between the natives of the island and main no doubt the latter trade with more remote tribes. 487
3245
3246At nine many canoes came of from the village with skins with Comsuah their Chief at ten a brisk trade commenced which lasted until noon when the wind began to blow a little fresh they [70] got scared and requested us to go nigher in to their village on this being refused they left us this being a fair wind Captain Gray thought best to embrace this first opportunity to go to the northward which we had been long wishing for the season now being so far advanced that if we did not go now we might not be enabled to go at all accordingly at one in the afternoon we weighed came to sail and stood off shore north north east.
3247
3248-- 215 --
3249This village I was informed by the natives is called Tooschcondolth 488 its latitude is 53° 2' north longitude 131° 30' west it is situated on a point on each side of which from our situation there appeared to be a deep Sound within which no doubt there may be found a good harbour and at no great distance from the village but time and inclination gave us no opportunity of searching.
3250
3251How happy should we have been had this village been known to us on our first coming to the eastern side of these Islands and how much better would our time have been employed and to much more advantage than it has been in beating about to no proffit 489 for this village if I may be allowed to judge from the specimen we had during our short tarry will afford a great abundance of skins we having procured no less than forty nine sea otter skins, twenty four peices of sea otter skin and thirteen sea otter tails mostly purchased with chizzels from two to four for a skin thus in all probability should we have reaped a most noble harvest and it is with the greatest regret I leave this certainty for an uncertainty. [71]
3252
3253We continued our course north north east until five when we steered north at ten shortened sail and stood to the northwest sounded and got ground with a line of twenty fathoms at eleven had eighteen and at midnight seventeen fathoms water the course was now north.
3254
32551791. August.
3256
3257
3258
3259At one in the morning of the first of August got ground with sixteen and a half fathom and at two with twenty fathom at three made all sail and at eight our course was west.
3260
3261At noon our latitude by observation was 54° 33' north the west 490 end of Washingtons islands north by west four miles distance stood along shore past several inlets wherein no doubt there are many good harbors at three saw a great number of sealions on a large rock within us the pinnace and jolly boat were sent in pursuit of them in hopes of procuring some for the sake of their oil but the boats returned without killing any our course was now west
3262
3263-- 216 --
3264north west at eight in the evening having proceeded as far to the northward as Captain Gray intended going this season the topsails were double reefed hauled our wind to the southward standing off shore intending to keep on our tacks for the night the westermost land at this time bore west six leagues and the southermost point south south west fifteen leagues distance being abreast of a deep sound 491 at ten the wind increased into a fresh gale from the east south east with such an exceeding thick fog that we seldom could see many yards ahead at half past eleven we were much alarmed by a very dangerous reef of rocks being descried but [72] at a short distance under our lea bow which we but narrowly escaped as the ship in tacking by good fortune went about.
3265
3266At eight in the evening of the next day the weather clearing a little the land was seen extending from south to south east by east on the north we are intirely land locked 492 and without a change of wind it is impossible for us to beat out.
3267
3268At daylight on the morning of the 3d finding the rapid current occasioned by the strong easterly gale had set us close in on a lee shore there being no appearance of the gales abating we stood in on the western shore to a place that had the appearance of a harbour the wind baffeling we were disappointed at six bore away and stood to the northward through what was supposed to be a straits between the continent and some islands 493 in hopes it would carry us clear of the land where we might have plenty of sea room at nine land appearing in almost every quarter but the western judging that was the passage hauled in that direction but we had not run two hours before the land was seen close aboard of us the fog clearing a little there appeared to be one continued ridge of high mountains in this quarter 494 another passage now opened to the northwest 495 which was directly to leeward it was thought the height of imprudence to attempt this passage for should it prove as
3269
3270-- 217 --
3271abortive as the one to the westward we should have a lee shore to contend against with a heavy foul ship strong gale of wind and thick foggy weather which would give us but little chance to save our ship if we did our lives which would [73] be drawn out in a miserable existance in a savage country and to beat about in this narrow unknown place was not prudent thus were we most disagreeably situated.
3272
3273It was therefore determined to be best to make if possible a harbor on the weather shore where the ship might ride out the gale the ship was immediately tackt standing over east north east stretching in near the eastern shore 496 when the pinnace was hoisted out and Mr. Haswell sent in her to search for an anchoring place the ship in the meantime making short boards in order to keep her station at two in the afternoon Mr. Haswell returned having found a place where the ship might come to with safety there being also two small islands 497 which afforded some little shelter it now became necessary to carry a press of sail to beat up to our anchoring ground which we did and at half past three came to with the best bower in fifteen fathom water finding the ship dragged let go the small bower veered out the whole of the best and about half the small bower cable the sheet, stream and spare anchors were got in readiness to let go should they be wanted the land to the northward was about four miles and that to the southwd. one mile distant at half past four the pinnace was sent with Mr. Haswell to the northward to examine the shore and search for a better harbour in case of accident we should be drove from our anchors. the people in the meantime were set to work to repair the rigging much of which had parted during the gale at nine the pinnace returned without finding so [74] good a place as this we are in.
3274
3275The gale continued with heavy squalls rain and fogs till the forenoon of the 5th when it abated in the afternoon Captain Gray and myself went ashore abreast of the ship we found several peices of
3276
3277-- 218 --
3278wood that had been recently burnt which is a sufficient proof this place is visited occasionally by the natives and we are in hopes as soon as the weather again becomes settled to see some there is a great plenty of raspberries whortleberries and a small red berry also wild pease a sufficient quantity of which were gathered for the cabbin.
3279
3280In the morning of the next day Captain Gray and Mr. Caswell went in the jolly boat on a shooting party in the afternoon they return'd with but little game in their excursion they found an excellent river of salmon about six miles to the southward of the ship.
3281
3282At nine in the morning of the 7th Captain Gray, Mr. Haswell, Mr. Caswell and myself went in the pinnace with eight men armed to Salmon River 498 where we had not been long before Mr. Caswell had the good fortune to shoot a Deer and in about two hours we caught an hundred fine salmon which are much smaller than those we have on our side the continent the method we used to catch these fish was to send several of the people up above the falls with long poles to thrash in the water and drive the fish down while others stood below with harpoons, granes, boathooks etca. etca. the fish were very plenty more than ever we now regretted there was no seine on board the [75] ship had there been in a short time we should have filled the boat which either smoaked or salted are excellent this River runs about half a mile from the sea in a serpentine form when it branches out into several small brooks which are lost in the woods the banks are level with fine fields of grass on which we saw six Deer sporting.
3283
3284At nine in the evening a large canoe made its appearance there were ten natives in it who after greeting us with a song came aboard they said they had no skins but that there was a great plenty at Sushin 499 the village they came from they requested leave to sleep on board which was granted them At sunrise the next morning [August 8] they left us with a promise of returning again in a few days with skins and went up the sound At nine a small canoe with four natives came along side in which was an elderly man who
3285
3286-- 219 --
3287appeared to be a Chief named Clinokah this man came on board he appeared to view everything with amazement and while in the cabbin was much agitated he soon left us and went up the sound.
3288
3289Having thus happily found there was a village at no great distance and the weather had now become settled unmoored ship and at noon weighed and beat out of the port which was called Port Tempest with a fresh turning breeze from the westward plyed all night to windward for the village Sushin but in the morning [August 9] the wind being light and variable with frequent calms at the same time a very strong tide set us down the Sound into a deep inlet at nine a large canoe full [76] of natives came along side in which was a Chief belonging to Sushin named Sinhait of whom many good skins were purchased.
3290
3291At two in the afternoon the Pinnace and jolly boat were sent to survey this Inlet and search for anchorage the boats soon returned having found a good anchoring place but the wind favouring us with a light breeze with the boats a head towed out at midnight the tide turning against us came to in fifty fathom water over a muddy bottom with the stream anchor and hawser. In the evening the natives who visited us at Port Tempest 500 returned having their canoes full of dried salmon packt in bails whether these people had been to purchase these fish or have a party belonging to their village a catching and drying them I could not learn they again requested permission to sleep on board which was granted.
3292
3293At four the next morning [August 10] again weighed came to sail and with the boats a head stood to the northwest for the village 501 at ten it became calm when the stream anchor was let go in twenty eight fathom water the enterance of the Sound bearing east south east and Port Tempest north east by north the ship about a mile distant from the nearest land 502 being at anchor on a fishing bank we caught several large halibut we were visited by many natives with skins.
3294
3295-- 220 --
3296In the forenoon of the next day the pinnace was sent to a small cove at a short distance a fishing at noon she returned with fourteen large halibut.
3297
3298In the afternoon there was a large canoe full of natives entered the Sound [77] Clinokah on seeing it appeared to be quite frantic running about the decks like a madman calling to his canoes that were ashore to come of and requesting us to fire at the strange canoe and support him for he said they were coming to kill him as soon as his canoes came of the natives came on board drew their daggers ran fore and aft brandishing them bawling most vociferously and offering by the most threatning motions and gestures every possible insult to these strangers 503 having but a superficial knowledge of their language of course we could not so well know what might be their intentions they were therefore all but the Chief sent into their canoes our arms and ammunition being at the same time got in readiness as we meant to stand on the defensive as the strange canoe came up in shore those others went on the opposite side of the ship when at about half a mile distant they landed all but six the canoe then advanced towards us singing the one who I suppose was chief standing up in the middle apparently unarm'd when within about fifteen or twenty yards of the ship they stopt and a conference was opened between the two chiefs which continued for sometime with the greatest vehemence when it appeared to be settled and the canoe went ashore she soon after returned with the rest of the natives being thirty five in number when they came alongside Clinokah and his people had a private conference after which the strangers gave an entertainment first of dried fish then of berries in oil which they eat with spoons as in our country we do berries and milk when this feast was over both parties [78] joined in an agreeable song sung to the most lively air. Matters to appearance being thus happily adjusted Clinokah introduced to our acquaintance this new Chief with whom we could not speak a word as he talked a language very different to what any of us have yet heard 504 he brought several
3299
3300-- 221 --
3301fine skins which were soon purchased as Clinokah was good enough to be our interpreter and to trade for him.
3302
3303The morning of the 12th was calm and pleasant at sunrise one canoe came alongside in which was six men (extraordinary well armed with spears daggers bows and arrows covered with mats in the bottom of their canoe this I did not know till long after they had gone) they sold two small skins and invited me to go on shore to take breakfast with them on roast fish and berries this I declin'd though not suspecting any ill design they had after baiting Mr. Caswell's fish hook according to their mode they went ashore abreast of the ship as they said to get skins but we saw no more of them.
3304
3305Mr. Caswell being very urgent to go to a cove 505 not far distant from the ship to fish frequently requested Captain Grays permission which as he intended to get under way as soon as there came any wind granted with reluctance at nine Mr. Caswell went in the jolly boat with two hands 506 taking with him only one musket he had not been gone long before a gun was heard to fire and shortly after a confused noise as those of geese, brants etca. which are in plenty here at half past eleven a fresh breeze sprang up from the east south east fired a gun as a signal for the boat to return at noon not [79] seeing the boat fired another gun and hoisted the flag weighed and came to sail stretching to the eastward a little way then hove about and stood in for the cove where the boat was gone to fish when we came near the land fired another gun but seeing nothing of the boat the pinnace was sent well manned and armed under command of Mr. Smith in search of her tacked the ship and stood off a little way then again tacked and stood in for the shore saw the pinnace returning with the jolly boat in tow without any person in her and soon discovered they had a flag hoisted halfmast with this melancholy token they approached the ship and when they came alongside I saw my worthy friend Mr. Caswell laying dead in the bottom of the boat stripped perfectly naked and stabbed in upwards
3306
3307-- 222 --
3308of twenty places this was a sight too shocken ever to be effaced from my memory there was not a dry eye on board the ship indeed it would have melted the hardest heart to have been present and heard the lamentations of the surviving friends of so worthy a man but I forbear.
3309
3310Mr. Smith reported when he entered the cove he saw the jolly boat laying at anchor a small distance from the shore but no person in her supposing they had gone into the woods a gunning but he soon found himself mistaken for ere he had gone far he saw the body of Joseph Barnes laying dead on the beach stripped of every thing but his trouses but saw nothing of John Folger fearing least the natives might be laying in ambush he dare not land to take of the corps but took the jolly boat in tow with Mr. Caswell as he found him [80] and came on board.
3311
3312I think this must have been a premeditated scheme of the natives and that our boat was beset by a great superiority in numbers prompted by a desire to possess themselves of their cloaths and arms as soon as the boats returned the jolly boat was hoisted up and sail made for Port Tempest at six in the evening anchored with the best bower in seventeen fathom water and moored with the stream anchor in nearly our former situation.
3313
3314On the 13th the weather was clear and pleasant at ten after divine service having been performed the remains of my departed friend were interred with all the solemnity our situation would admit. 507
3315
3316Mr. Joshua Caswell was about twenty six years of age born of reputable parents in the Town of Malden a small town about four miles from Boston early in life he went to sea in the beginning of the late war he was so unfortunate as to be taken by the english who retained him a prisoner during the greatest part of the remainder of it on the happy return of peace he again followed the sea and by his merit soon rose to be a Captain in the merchant service this he gave up and took the office of second mate of this ship having a great prediliction for the voyage in every respect he was a reputable good seaman of a most happy serene placid disposition in most cases too passive he was loved and beloved by all who knew him
3317
3318-- 223 --
3319he was an honest man which Pope says "is the noblest work of God." [81]
3320
3321The wind continued to the eastward until the morning of the 15th when it became variable at nine weighed came to sail and endeavoured to beat out but the tide being contrary again cast anchor in thirty fathom water to wait till its turn at two in the afternoon the tide being favorable and the wind settled in the west north west again weighed and beat out of the Port at five being clear made all sail and kept away to the eastward steering east south east standing down the sound.
3322
3323To the place we are now leaving was given the name of Brown's Sound in honor of Samuel Brown Esquire of Boston its latitude is 55°18' north and longitude 132°20' west. 508
3324
3325It will no doubt be recollected under what circumstances we entered the Sound the untoward ones which followed together with our small intercourse with the natives and imperfect knowledge of their language gave us no opportunity of gaining any knowledge of ourselves or determining with any precission on that derived from the natives of the extent of this Sound.
3326
3327Suffice it therefore to say it branches out into many arms the principal of which are first Port Tempest if a port it can be called which is on the east side of the sound our boat was sent up this arm and found it trending to the east inclining to south as far as the eye could reach tis very probable this may come out at the Bay to the southward and join the arm Mr. Caswell went up which trended to the westward there is another arm which runs to the north 509 and another to the northwest 510 up which the natives informed me was a village called Cahta there [82] is also another exactly opposite to the enterance of the sound bearing west north west and east south east of each other when we had sailed with the ship some distance up this last mentioned the horizon was plainly seen without any obstruction as far as the eye could reach 511 it is very possible this may be a straits which empties itself at some distance to the
3328
3329-- 224 --
3330northward there is another arm which trends to the west southerly 512 up which I was informed by the natives was their village of Sushin besides these are several small inlets, one river which has heretofore been mentioned and one small cove which on account of our officer being murdered in it was called massacree Cove we no where found any convenient harbour though we did anchorage in various parts and every where wood and water was plenty.
3331
3332The land on the east side of the sound is tolerably level but on the west there are high mountains whose sumits out top the clouds and whose wintery garbs gives them a most dreary aspect in all parts the land is well covered with trees particularly the various sorts of pines and shrubs that have been found on other parts of the coast.
3333
3334The only animals seen by us were Deers and wolfs sea otters and seals nor was any other besides those two last mentioned seen with the natives though no doubt there may be we found an abundance of halibut and salmon and a few of a species of cod etca. also geese, ducks, brants, shags, divers, [83] and gulls a few of which were procured among the woods were seen a few crows and white headed eagles the insect tribe are pretty numerous here particularly gnats, moscheto, and sandflies whose stings are exceeding venomous some of our people who were on shore on duty were stung to such a degree that their limbs swelled so as to become totally useless there is also the common fly, butterfly and a few humble bees.
3335
3336Little knowledge can be expected for reasons before given as to their numbers manners or customs for my own part I believe them to be a few fishermen belonging to some neighbouring tribe scattered about the sound in temporary huts to follow the fish and to procure that most necessary article of subsistance this again in some measure seems to be confuted when it is considered that but seldom a few poor fishermen the number seen by us not exceeding forty except the strange canoe before mentioned are possess'd of so great a number of skins as we purchased being no less than ninety five sea otter skins, eighty nine peices of sea otter skin and twenty four sea otter tails mostly for chizzels this was a great acquisition and exceeded our most sanguine expectations on natives being first discovered and but for the fate of our unfortunate officer we should
3337
3338-- 225 --
3339leave this place with the greatest regret but it is probable [84] we shall again visit this sound before we leave the Coast.
3340
3341Their language and dress is very similar to what we have heard and seen at Washington's Islands except one which was peculiar to the natives of Cahta this was a wooling mantle fine neatly wrought and evidently of their own manufacture some white others only the ground work white beautifully diversified with various fancy figures and of the most lively colors of yellow, green, red, dark brown, black etca. these appeared to be wove in with the mantle and rais'd like the pile on velvet on others there were tassels which form'd the figures these as they walkt would naturally move which had a pleasing effect the top edge was trimmed with sea otter furr and on the bottom was a deep fringe upon the whole I think this one of the prettiest peices of workmanship I have yet seen on the coast these people could not be induced to part with any of those garments though they were offered a very valuable consideration. 513
3342
3343At five 514 as I before observed we stood down the sound at eight Port Tempest bore north by west five leagues and Massacree Cove west three leagues distance at midnight [August 15] a sail was seen in the south east quarter which at two in the morning we spoke she was the Hancock of Boston Samuel Crowel master. 515
3344
3345At nine Captain Gray and myself went on board the Hancock when we heard of the welfare of our friends but were disappointed in having no letters we were informed they sailed from Boston the beginning of november last in the latitude of [85] 0°57' north longitude 27°40' west atlantic ocean they saw several large rocks which on their first appearance they supposed to be a fleet of shipping having shipped a sea which swept their boats etca. of deck they put
3346
3347-- 226 --
3348into St. Salvador a Portuguise settlement on the Brazil coast where they at first found some difficulty in procuring their necessary supplies on account as they say of having no Sea letters but after undergoing a strict examination they were supplied with every thing they wished after leaving this they again stopt at Staten land killed many seal, procured wood and water in coming out of the harbor they struck on a ledge of rocks but got of without doing any damage from this they proceeded to double Cape Horn it being a late season they had a most boisterous time they stopt at Massafueiro and filled up their water and again at Owhyhee where they procured a supply of hogs, potatoes and other vegetables and purchased forty sea otter skins from the natives who inform'd the sailors belonging to Captain Metcalf's vessel had stole and sold them for various articles. 516 It is worthy of remark and would be no dishonor to any person in the most civilized country Captain Crowel, Mr. Crayton and Mr. Adamson landing at Owhyhee were received by Tianna who after conducting them to the various parts of the island they wished to visit told Mr. Adamson (he having before visited these islands and understood the language) that he had them now in his power that it was his people's wish he should kill them and seize their vessel but that he would not take any advantage of people who [86] trusted themselves within his territories and had satisfied his people by telling them to wait till the morrow noon when they had his liberty to attack them and as they were not ignorant of their vessels force no doubt would carry them he would therefore advise them to leave the island before that time in the meantime they were at liberty to recreate themselves on shore without any molestation thus was this Chiefs humanity shown in a most conspicuous light and saved the vessel and lives of the crew belonging to her. 517 Captain Crowel and the gentlemen immediately returned on board and in the evening sailed for this Coast where they arrived on the 14th of July last since their arrival they set up the frame of a long boat they brought out at the time they were launching her
3349
3350-- 227 --
3351the natives appeared in a body to prevent them this caused a battle to ensue in which four of the natives were killed and several others wounded without their receiving any damage 518 since which they have had several skirmishes this boat has been fitted out sloop rigged and is now a cruizing under the conduct of Mr. Adamson 519 at the north end of Washington's islands at noon we again return'd on board. 520
3352
3353Nothing could have come more seasonably to the relief of our depressed spirits which were already desponding under our late misfortune than these new friends to whom we could make known our loss which is a great alleviation of our pain.
3354
3355At noon the wind became variable with which we steered south east at six the nearest land in sight bore west five leagues. [87]
3356
3357At two in the morning of the 17th the wind settled to the southward when we wore ship and stood to the west south west at four saw Washington's Islands extending from south to west south west about ten leagues distance stood along to the westward with light variable winds the Hancock still in company 521 at eight finding the water appeared to be thick and muddy hove a cast of the lead when we were much alarmed at having less than three fathom water however we hauled of and presently deepened it to twelve fathom at ten having a bay open we began to ply to windward for it having from twelve to three fathom water the Hancock several mile to windward we soon wrought a head of her when their long boat made its appearance and soon after Mr. Adamson came on board at
3358
3359-- 228 --
3360noon we cast anchor in six fathom water over a muddy bottom but the ship did not bring up their being a strong tide a running until we had veered out seventy fathom of cable at three the Hancock came in and anchored in company a few miles a head.
3361
3362The next morning Mr. Haswell was sent in the pinnace armed on a survey of the River 522 a few natives visited us with skins among others was a Chief named Kow 523 belonging to Clegauhny a tribe so called who inhabit a bay to the westward of Brown's sound this man was very serviceable to us in trade and very intelligable he informed me this river ran some distance into the country terminating in a lake 524 which was supplied by a number of small rivulets which abound with salmon round this lake are situated their villages as I had an idea this might afford [88] a passage through to the eastern side of the island I questioned him on that head his answers were so very clear that I have no longer a doubt of its being anything more than a river as he described.
3363
3364At four in the afternoon the Hancock weighed and stood down the river but unfortunately took the ground our boats were immediately sent to her assistance and she was got of without receiving any material damage Captain Crowel and Mr. Crayton honored us with a visit in the evening.
3365
3366At ten the next morning the Hancock sailed the natives brought us a few skins which were purchased as also some fish.
3367
3368The morning of the 20th was foggy with drizzling rain the natives brought of four skins which were purchased finding this place pretty well drained of its skins and that it was Captain Crowels intention to make the southern coast in his rout to China it was therefore determined to stay here no longer but if possible get to the southward before him we accordingly at half past nine weighed with a light westerly wind and ebb tide and beat out of the river at
3369
3370-- 229 --
3371one in the afternoon the tide began to set strong against us which obliged us to cast anchor in six fathom water over a muddy bottom four miles distance from the river it bearing south by east a remarkable round hill 525 on a low point of land being the north east extreme of the islands of which is a shoal for which reason it was denominated Cape Lookout I have since learnt the natives call it "Nacoon" 526 or "whale point" from the number of whales which run ashore yearly there bore north east by east five leagues distance the north west extreme of the island in sight [89] west half south two and a half leagues the southeast part of Murderers Cape 527 a point of land at the western enterance of Brown's sound so named north north west.
3372
3373This river was lately discovered by Captain Crowel who named it Hancocks River in honor of His excellency John Hancock Governor of the State of Massachusetts but is called by the natives Masheet it is situated at the north end of Washington's Islands in the latitude of 54°16' north longitude 132°24' West on entering the river tis well to keep the western ashore a board as there is a shole extends from the eastern to Cape Lookout 528 after you are in the best water is on the eastern shore.
3374
3375The tides are very regular rising and falling [14] feet perpendicular running at the amazing rate of four miles an hour and no doubt much stronger at the time of freshets the banks of the river present the most delightful green fields behind which are finely placed most stately trees which appeared to be free from underwood the huts of the natives, the framings of the deserted ones etca. scatered about the banks all serve to heighten the scene and render it one of the most pleasing romantic places I have yet seen the land is level and appears very suitable for cultivation.
3376
3377The woods seemed to abound with wild fowl particularly turkies, geese, herons, white headed eagles etca. but we dare not go after
3378
3379-- 230 --
3380them for our late misfortune gave us sufficient warning not to put ourselves in the power of the natives how specious soever their shew of friendship may appear the natives daily brought us plenty [90] of fine fish and berries.
3381
3382The tribe which inhabits this river I am informed is large though we saw but few natives their Chief is named Cuddah this tribe at some seasons of the year afford many skins I suppose indeed if I understood the natives right they are moved up the river for the benefit of fishing as they have parted with all their skins but what they want for winters clothing.
3383
3384At five in the evening the tide being nearly done weighed and came to sail with a fresh breeze from the westward and stood to the northward towards Murderers cape to clear the shoals off Cape Lookout at seven we had soundings in nineteen fathom the lead was kept agoing.
3385
3386At midnight shortened sail and stood to the northeast at three in the morning made sail steering east south east at six we had a fresh breeze with clear pleasant weather our course south east with the depth of water from seven to twelve fathom at noon Cape Lookout bore north west about eight leagues distant our latitude by an observation was 53°43' north we now stood along shore south east by south about four leagues distance from the land with from ten to fifteen fathoms water.
3387
3388Finding it impossible to reach Tooschcondolth before night the village we intended next stopping at we therefore at half past five shortened sail and hauled our wind to the northward under double reef'd topsails at eight the north extreme of the Islands bore west north west seventeen leagues and the south, south south east ten leagues the islands off Tooschcondolth [91] south five leagues at eleven wore ship to the southward.
3389
3390On the morning of the 22d at daylight made sail and stood in south west for the village having from eight to thirty seven fathoms of water the shoalest about four leagues to the westward of the village the wind falling light it was half past nine before we got in with the land where we cast anchor in thirty five fathoms water over a bottom of mud Tooschcondolth bearing north by west two miles distance several canoes came of in one of which was Comsuah who
3391
3392-- 231 --
3393informed us there was but few skins at his village 529 at present yet if we would wait ten days they would procure a plenty pointing towards the Continent and giving us to understand 'twas from that quarter he would get them.
3394
3395It being only a useless waste of time to tarry here at two in the afternoon weighed and came to sail. Having in the course of the day heard several canon which some of us supposed to be distant thunder at half past two saw a boat rowing towards us at the same time a cannon was heard to fire in a sound to the westward from whence the boat came various were our conjectures what could be the meaning of all this and before the boat got aboard which was about an hour it was determined there must be some vessel ashore which wanted assistance this we would have most chearfully afforded but we were happy to find this was not the case it proved to be the Hope's boat which Captain Ingraham sent [92] to with Mr. Cruff his chief mate to inform us he intended sailing for China in about a month and would be the bearer of any letters it was with the greatest pleasure I embraced this opportunity to write Mr. Barrell our principal owner. 530
3396
3397Mr. Cruff informed us that w[h]ere the Hope lay was a very good harbour Captain Ingraham seeing us in the morning knew the ship and supposing we did not know of that harbour fired several cannon expecting we should hear them and come in but seeing us get under weigh he sent his boat for which we are most certainly much obliged.
3398
3399At four Mr. Cruff left us when we made sail and stood along shore to the eastward having lain to all the intermediate time the wind had now become light and variable inclining to a calm at eight the next morning the northwardmost land in sight bore north 56°15' west and the southwardmost south 33°45' east Tooschcondolth west six leagues at noon our latitude by an observation was 52°38' north when the south east part of the islands bore south 50°37' east distance twelve leagues course south east by east at
3400
3401-- 232 --
3402seven in the evening the south extreme of the land in sight bore south east ten leagues distance steering south by west.
3403
3404At midnight the course was altered to south 78°45' east 531 at four in the morning the southermost extreme of the Islands which I have since learnt is called Cape St. James bore south by west seven leagues distance at noon my latitude by observation gave 52°0' north longitude 130°19' west [93] Cape St. James at this time bearing south 61°52' west its latitude therefore must be 51°56' north and longitude 131°7' west the winds light and variable and the weather pleasant.
3405
3406As we are now taking leave of these Islands for this season a few general remarks may not be improper but first it may be here necessary to observe that we left Boston without being able to procure the voyages of any of those preceeding navigators who have visited this coast for trade or discoveries since the late Captain Cook whose voyages give little or no information respecting the greater part of the trading coast consequently we can derive no advantage from them we are therefore subject to every inconvenience that can possibly attend a ship on an undiscovered coast save the knowledge derived from Captain Gray's former voyage which is none 532 as has already very conspicuously appeared in a variety of instances and but for Mr. Haswell our chief mate who was with Captain Gray on his former voyage we should be totally ignorant of every part of the coast and it is to him we are indebted for what knowledge we have yet attained and of the various harbours we have yet visited.
3407
3408These Islands I have been lately informed were discovered by a Captain Dixon in an english vessel belonging to London in 1787 533 and by him named Queen Charlotte's Islands and as has been already observed were discovered by Captain Gray in the Washington in the summer of 1789 and by him named Washington's Islands.
3409
3410-- 233 --
3411[94] It is therefore my most sincere wish and hope that the amiable Queen of the one country and the illustrious President of the other may long live to enjoy those small honors which is in the power of the subjects of the one and the citizens of the other to confer.
3412
3413There are three principal Islands the one to the southward which is formed by Barrell's sound, the large or main island and another off its north west extreme 534 there are also several smaller islands scattered about the various harbours and alongshore the whole forming a group extending from latitude 51°52' north to latitude 54°28' north and from longitude 130°52' to longitude 133°52' west being a tract of two and a half degrees of latitude and three degrees of longitude. 535
3414
3415That the discovery of these Islands to whomsoever it may be attributed has added very considerably to the geography of this coast is beyond a doubt and I think there situation sufficiently evinces them to be part of the Archipelago of St. Lazarus if so the straits of Admiral de Fonte can be at no great distance and must be acknowledged to exist 536 though Captain Cook gave no credit to such vague and improbable stories this was a judgment too hastily formed. 537
3416
3417The principal tribes for skins reside at the three following villages Tooschcondolth, Masheet or Hancock's River and Tahtence 538 this latter is the most famous it affording more [95] skins than any other tribe we have yet known or heard of and it is here where Captain Gray on his former voyage procured more skins than at every other part of the coast nor did he get all for they broke him of trade and
3418
3419-- 234 --
3420he was obliged to return to Nootka. 539 It may be asked and with a great deal of propriety why we did not visit this village I must answer I don't know without it can be admitted Captain Gray did not know where it was and was therefore loath to expose his ignorance after so much pretended vaunted knowledge the reason at the time we were at Masheet was the same that induced us to leave that place. 540
3421
3422The natives during the summer season live in scattered huts for the benefit of fishing the principal people living together these temporary huts are most wretched but their head villages are neatly and regularly built the houses end on with pitched roofs 541 in front is a large post reaching above the roof neatly carved but with the most distorted figures 542 at the bottom is an oval or round hole which is either the mouth or belly of some deformed object this serves for a door way near to those head villages they have fortified towns or villages which they call "Touts" to which they retreat when invaded by a more powerfull enemy these are built on the most natural fortifications and much improved by art they endeavour to have only one means of access and this by a wooden pole with notches cut in it to admit the toe by which they ascend when they are all up the pole is hauled after them they then with stones which these [96] places are well supplied with annoy their enemy and are in general able to repel most any attack these places are also well supplied with provissions and water by which they can hold out a siege of several months if there enemy had the ability or skill to carry it on. 543
3423
3424-- 235 --
3425The government of these people appear by no means to be absolute the Chiefs having little or no commands over their subjects Cunniah the Chief of Tahtence 544 is acknowledged to be the greatest on the Islands his wife of course must be the Empress for they are intirely subject to a petticoat government the women in all cases taking the lead.
3426
3427That these people trade with those over on the main for skins etca. is certain but as one shore cannot be seen from the other at Tooschcondolth over it surprizes me what guide those natives could have had who visited us there when it was foggy at the time and had been for several hours before so that they could not have an opportunity of being directed by the stars which makes it the more wonderful in all probability there is yearly many overtaken by storms and lost indeed the natives have informed me that is sometimes the case on asking Comsuah what guide they had to direct them he would answer by pointing up to the heavens on telling him it was thick and they could not see he would still answer by pointing up to heaven intimating thereby that there was one above who would always guide, protect and direct them that was good. [97]
3428
3429In addition to their dress which has already been mentioned is or rather it appears to be an ornament an iron or copper collar of an elliptic form twisted like a rope put over the head the two extremes laying on the shoulders and the front side which is thickest laying on the breast this is worn by the Chiefs only and appears to be a badge of distinction. 545
3430
3431The manners, customs, dress, canoes etca. etca. of these people are all similar their language differs only in a few words in the termination of some words they have or make a long quivering which gives them a most savage disagreeable sound but to convey a better idea I here subjoin a list of words I was able to procure which
3432
3433-- 236 --
3434are spelt as near to their pronunciation as my ear would direct which I am conscious is far from being right.
3435
3436
3437-- 237 --
3438
3439But to return from this digression if so it may be called the winds still continuing light and variable at noon on the 25th the Islands off Pintards Sound 546 made their appearance bearing east three or four leagues distance my latitude at this time is 50° 55' north and
3440
3441-- 238 --
3442longitude 129° 46' west the wind now veering to the south west with which we stood to the south east at six the southermost part of the Continent in sight bore south 78° 45' east sixteen leagues distance at half past six the wind hauled to the south east wore and stood to the southwest at midnight it became calm and so continued till ten in the forenoon of the following day when a light breeze again came from the south east.
3443
3444At noon the westermost Island off Pintard's sound bore north west six leagues distance and the south extreme of the Continent east by south my latitude by observation 50° 35' north and longitude 129° 20' west at seven in the evening the wind veered to the east south east when we stood on our tacks to the southward we had an abundance of whales playing about the ship and [102] through the night much sharp lightning in the southeast.
3445
3446At noon [August 27] saw Woody Point bearing south 84° 22' east my latitude 50° 16' north by observation at two in the afternoon the wind again came out of the north west when we made all sail and steered east south east with a gentle gale and pleasant weather.
3447
3448The following day at noon my latitude was 49° 19' north the enterance of Nootka Sound was now seen bearing north east by east about eleven leagues distance at seven it bore north by west eight leagues.
3449
3450At three in the morning of the 29th shortened sail and hove to maintopsail to the mast head to the southwest at half past four again made sail for Clioquot at six it fell calm and so continued until eleven when a light breeze came from the southward the enterance of Clioquot at noon bore north east four or five leagues at three in the afternoon saw two sail to the westward standing to the eastward 547 at four several canoes came of in one of which was our old friend Hanna 548 he informed us Captain Kendrick was at Clioquot in a Brigantine 549 and had been there some time the wind had
3451
3452-- 239 --
3453now increased into a pleasant gale at five saw Captain Kendrick's boat a coming off fired a gun to leeward and hoisted the colours which was answered when Captain Kendrick came on board.
3454
3455Nothing can equal the pleasure I received on meeting my old [103] friend 550 or our mutual professions of happiness on the occasion each being as eager to recount his various vicissitudes of fortune since parting as the other was to hear Captain Kendrick informed me that after the Columbia left China without stopping at Larksbay according to his orders to receive his dispatches for the owners and the Captain his final instructions he took a house at Macao he was so unfortunate as to loose the last season being detain'd in selling his skins and altering his vessel from a Sloop into a Brigantine this being the cheapest way he could refit as she stood in nead of every article both of sails and rigging he also met with every detention from the Chinese and the former Portuguise governor was not friend enough to assist him on the contrary did everything to distress him he had his house at Macao broken open provissions denied him himself arrested in the streets by a guard of soldiers and ordered immediately to depart and not to return again on pain of imprisonment thus was he most distressfully situated obliged to go on board his vessel at Larksbay and but for the assistance of the new Portuguise governor who had just come over he thinks he should never have been able to get away.
3456
3457Captain Kendrick left Larksbay in March in company with the Grace of New York Captain Douglass they went into a harbour on the southern coast of Japan where they were received by the natives with the greatest hospitality here Captain Kendrick displayed [104] the American flag which is probably the first ever seen in that quarter they carried from China to Japan about two hundred prime sea otter skins but the Japanese knew not the use of them a few days sail from this they discovered a group of Islands to which on account of the natives bringing water off to sell was given the name of Water Islands they not being down in any chart extant
3458
3459-- 240 --
3460the natives of these Islands as well as those of Japan and the Chinamen could not understand each other in talking but in writing they could well their tarry among these Islands was short the two vessels parted company soon after leaving them each making the best of his way to this Coast.
3461
3462Captain Kendrick arrived on the 13th of June in latitude 52° 58' north he went into Barrell's Sound where his vessel a few days after his arrival was attacked and actually in possession of the natives nearly an hour when he again recovered his vessel killed and wounded a great many among the rest a woman who was a proper amazon. This he attributes to the following cause soon after he sent the Columbia on to China he sailed from Clioquot for Washington's Islands and went into Barrell's sound having been there a short time the natives found means to steal his linnen etca. that had that day been washed this with some other things they had at times robbed him of induced him to take the two Chiefs Coyah and Schulkinanse he dismounted one of his cannon and put one leg of each into the carriage where [105] the arms of the cannon rest and fastened down the clamps threatning at the same time if they did not restore the stolen goods to kill them nearly all the goods were soon returned what was not he made them pay for in skins as this was a means though contrary to his wishes of breaking friendship with them and well knowing if he let those Chiefs go they would sell him no more skins he therefore made them fetch him all their skins and paid them the same price he had done for those before purchased when they had no more the two Chiefs were set at liberty when he went into the Sound this time the natives appeared to be quite friendly and brought skins for sale as usual the day of the attack there was an extraordinary number of visitors several Chiefs being aboard the arm chests were on the quarter deck with the keys in them the gunners having been overhauling the arms the Chiefs got on these chests and took the keys out when Coyah tauntingly said to Captain Kendrick pointing to his legs at the same time now put me into your gun carriage the vessel was immediately thronged with natives a woman standing in the main chains urging them on the officers and people all retired below having no arms but what was in possession of the natives save the officers private ones Captain
3463
3464-- 241 --
3465Kendrick tarried on deck endeavouring to pacify the natives and bring them to some terms at the same time edging towards the companion way to secure his retreat to the cabbin a fellow all the time holding a huge [106] marling spike he had stolen fixed into a stick over his head ready to strike the deadly blow whenever orders should be given the other natives with their daggers grasped and only waiting for the word to be given to begin a most savage massacree just as Captain Kendrick had reached the companion way Coyah jumpt down and he immediately jumpt on top of him Coyah then made a pass at him with his dagger but it luckily only went through his jacket and scratched his belly the officers by this time had their arms in readiness and would have ventured on deck with them before but for fear of killing their Captain Captain Kendrick now fired a musket from the cabbin then took a pair of pistols and another musket and went on deck being followed by his officers with the remainder of the arms they had collected the natives on seeing this made a precipitate retreat all but the woman before mentioned in the chains who there continued urging them to action with the greatest ardour until the last moment though her arm had been previously cut of by one of the people with a hanger and she was otherways much wounded when she quitted all the natives had left the vessel and she jumpt over board and attempted to swim of but was afterwards shot though the natives had taken the keys of the arm chests yet they did not happen to be lockt they were therefore immediately opened and a constant fire was kept up as long as they could reach the natives with cannon [107] or small arms after which they chased them in their armed boats making the most dreadfull havock by killing all they came across this accounts for the story the natives told us when we were there. 551
3466
3467Captain Kendrick after leaving that port proceeded to the southward went into Nootka Sound passed the Spanish garrison 552 there and went up to Mawinna where he tarried several days from this he proceeded up Tashees river and came out to sea at a place called by the natives Ahateset which is a sound laying between Chickleset
3468
3469-- 242 --
3470and Nootka sounds purchasing as he went of the natives all their skins and landed estates for muskets, iron, copper and cloathing 553 he then came to this place where he has been more than a month purchasing of the natives their skins and land and equiping for China he spent the remainder of the day and evening with us.
3471
3472At seven in the evening we cast anchor in the roads and in about an hour after it being slack water weighed and towed farther up and again anchored it being too dark to go over the bar.
3473
3474When we first cast anchor those two vessels we had seen to the westward passed by they were two large ships and supposed by us to be Spaniards but some of the natives who had been on board informed me they were not Spanish nor English as these people are acquainted with both those nations I know not where those ships belong unless they are those two French ships the Boussole and the Astrolabe which sailed from France in the year 1785 on discoveries under the command [108] of the Compte de la Peyrouse or they may be Russian ships from Kamtchatka as they shewed no colours 'tis impossible to determine. 554
3475
3476The morning of the 30th was calm and the weather pleasant I accompanied Captain Gray in the jolly boat to breakfast with Captain Kendrick having had a previous invitation we were received at a small Island which he had fortified and dignified with the appellation of Fort Washington in honour of our Illustrious President 555 in the meantime the ship weighed and towed up into the harbour and moored in nearly our former situation the natives visited us with a few skins at the same time gave us to understand they had not many having previously sold them to Captain Kendrick but now
3477
3478-- 243 --
3479they would sell the few remaining to him who gave the best price.
3480
34811791. September.
3482
3483
3484
3485From this to the 6th of September the weather was in general moderate and pleasant during which time we had frequent and mutual interchanges of visits at nine in the morning of this day unmoored ship and fired a gun at ten weighed and came to sail beating down for the roads at noon the tide turning set us over upon the rocks sent the boats ahead towed clear and cast anchor in the gap in twelve fathoms water.
3486
3487At half past eight the next morning again weighed and beat into the roads with an ebb tide at one in the afternoon cast anchor in four fathoms water Observatory Island bearing south by east and the enterance of the roads south south [109] east saw a sail in the offing a standing in latter part of the day thick fog with drizling rain.
3488
3489On the morning of the 8th we had light breezes and foggy weather at nine the weather became clear when we weighed came to sail and stood out to sea at noon the enterance of Clioquot bore north west six leagues distance made all sail and bore away to the southward steering south east by south at four in the afternoon saw a ship in the southwest quarter which stood down for us until sunset and then hauled her wind showing no colours. 556
3490
3491At midnight the winds became light and variable inclining to a calm at eight in the morning Companies Bay bore north three leagues a very heavy swell setting to the northeast at ten a gentle breeze sprang up from the eastward at noon my observation gave 48°42' north latitude when Cape Flattery bore east and the northwardmost extreme of the land northwest.
3492
3493At six in the afternoon Cape Flattery bore east north east distance eight leagues through the night the winds were variable and the weather squally at nine in the morning we had a fresh breeze of the land when we plied to windward to get in with the village Chahnee 557 at noon it was cloudy with exceeding sultry weather the wind blowing in puffs of the land and fetching so hot a steam that many of our people insisted on it they were burnt the higher you
3494
3495-- 244 --
3496where aloft the greater was the degree of heat this I conceived to be occasioned by some [110] backwoods the natives must have been setting fire to though there was no smoke seen to warrant this opinion I now more than ever regret I have no thermometer to determine this degree of heat at four in the afternoon several canoes came off from the village the natives in which brought a few skins which they soon disposed Tootooch's island 558 at this time bore northwest and the southermost extreme of the land south at eight in the evening the natives left us and we made sail.
3497
3498At midnight the weather was calm and clear when Tootooch's island bore north north east three miles an excessive strong tide a running which swept us fast towards the breakers 559 hoisted out the boats and towed clear at four (in the morning of the 11th) a light breeze came from the southward hoisted in the boats and stood to the westward under easy sail at noon it inclined to be calm with a very thick fog at three in the afternoon heard the roaring of breakers haul'd our wind to the southward and made sail in about half an hour saw a rock about half a pistol shot of bearing south east tacked ship hoisted out the boats towed clear and stood to the northward at eight in the evening hearing the surf on what we supposed to be the northside of the straits tacked and stood to the southward there was excessive strong tides a running and so foggy we could not see a hundred yards ahead we continued to stand from side to side of the [111] straits having the surf on one side and the breakers on the other to give us warning when to go about at nine we sounded and got bottom with a line of twenty five fathoms.
3499
3500From this to midnight of the 14th the weather continued foggy with light variable winds calms and strong tides during which time we made and shortened sail as occasion or opportunity offered though we were hourly in the most imminent danger and already had some very narrow escapes yet Captain Gray could not be induced to stand of to gain an offing but seemed rather to preferr this distressful situation which I am sure prudence could never have dictated to him
3501
3502-- 245 --
3503and there was not the least chance while this weather continued of the natives coming of with skins he therefore must be blamed by every body for sporting with the lives of so many people under his charge. 560
3504
3505At four on the morning of the 15th it was cloudy with a large swell setting on shore the land now made its appearance about five leagues distance and it was known to be Cape Flattery at five a light breeze sprang up from the eastward stood in for the land steering north east at eight Tootooch's island bore north north east four miles distance the extremes of the land to the southward bore south by east at nine there being a strong tide against us we cast anchor before the village [112] Ahshewat 561 in twenty five fathom water over a muddy bottom Tootooch's Island bearing north one league distance several of the natives visited us with skins which were purchased among others was a Chief named Clahclacko who from what I could understand wished to inform me the Spaniards had been here since us endeavouring to convert them to christianity that he and several others had been baptized as also several of their children this ceremony he went through as also the chanting of some of their hymns with a most serious religious air though it was in broken Spanish and indian yet he imitated the sounds of their voices their motions and religious cants of their faces to a miracle 562 at the same time condemned our irreligious manner of life.
3506
3507The tide having turned in our favor at a quarter past one in the afternoon weighed anchor and stood into the mouth of the straits at three shortened sail and hove to maintopsail to the mast to wait for the natives Tootooch's island bearing south by east one mile distant many canoes came of with natives of whom several fine skins and fish were purchased at sunset the natives left us when we made short boards in the straits for the night in order to keep our situation for the benefit of trade in the morning.
3508
3509We had light winds with drizling rain the next morning at
3510
3511-- 246 --
3512eight one canoe came of with three men of whom two small skins were purchased finding [113] the natives did not incline to come of and having a good reason to think they had no more skins to dispose of their being every appearance of an approaching storm the weather now rainy and foggy at nine we wore ship and stood out of the straits to the northward at ten Tootooch's island bore south east six miles distance at half past twelve saw the land through the fog which we supposed to be Nittenat bearing east south east one mile distant hauled of shore steering west half south at one the wind which before had been moderate from the eastward now veered to the south west and soon increased into so strong a gale as to be thought necessary to send down the topgallantyards and close reef the topsails at nine in the evening the gale abated and the winds became light and variable with a heavy sea from the westward.
3513
3514At ten in the morning of the 17th the wind having settled at east south east the topgallantyards were sent up and we made sail and stood along shore to the northward at eight in the evening the wind again veered to the southwest which at nine blew so fresh a gale as to reduce us to our double reefs at half past one the following morning the wind headed us supposing ourselves to be too nigh the land tacked and stood to the southward at three shortened sail at six again made sail and bore away for Clioquot steering north with a fresh gale from the west north west at noon Clioquot bore east four miles distance at half past twelve anchored [114] in the roads with the small bower in five fathom water it blowing a fresh gale the ship dragged let go the best bower and she road at three Mr. Haswell and myself went up the harbour in the pinnace to see if Captain Kendrick still remained there 563 at eleven in the evening the tide being favourable weighed and stood into a better birth about two miles farther up and again cast anchor in four fathoms water the enterance of the harbour bearing northwest by north.
3515
3516The next day we had light airs and very pleasant weather at ten it being flood tide we got under way and ran up into the harbour and at one in the afternoon came to with the best bower in seven fathom
3517
3518-- 247 --
3519water over a bottom of clay mud at two Captain Gray went in the pinnace armed to seek a good cove to winter and build our vessel in at five the Lady Washington assisted by our boats came down from Fort Washington and anchored alongside of us.
3520
3521The morning of the 20th was pleasant Captain Kendrick honored us with his company to breakfast and spend the day at ten the tide being favorable we weighed anchor and with the assistance of the Washington's and our own boats we towed and sailed into winter quarters at one in the afternoon cast anchor in a snug cove called by the natives Clicksclecutsee 564 moored the ship with the cables to the trees on each side thus situa[ted] we are entirely lockt in an excellent cove about eight miles from the anchoring [115] place in the harbour and fifteen miles from the sea several canoes with natives accompanied us up. It is worthy of remark that while the ship was mooring one of our people fired at a flock of geese then flying over the musket burst to peices in his hands and though there were as many as twenty of the people besides natives standing near him yet he nor they did not receive the least hurt.
3522
3523Being now well sheltered in a convenient Cove on the morning of the 21st a party was a sent on shore to cut down the trees and clear a place to build a house and erect our vessel others were employed on board in unbending the sails and striking the topgallantmasts the following day the foundation of our house was laid it being thirty six feet long and eighteen feet broad which was compleated on the 30th 565 the lower story is formed with logs piled horizontally with their ends let into each other and trunelled together the seams were filled with mortar we made of clay and burnt shells the upper story is framed and covered with boards which we procured from the natives for a trifling consideration in iron in front of the house were two ports for cannon and loopholes on all sides for musketry in the house was built a brick fire place for the convenience of cooking
3524
3525-- 248 --
3526and keeping the house warm also a forge was erected where the smiths might be handy and convenient to do the necessary work that should be daily wanted for the vessel. [116]
3527
3528On the 29th the Lady Washington John Kendrick Esquire commander sailed for Macao in China the day before he sent up his boat with an officer to inform me of his departure and request my company to spend the day which I did and also the night taking the most affectionate leave of him as he left the harbour it would be an act of ingratitude in me not here to remark that during the continuance of our two vessels in port Captain Kendrick has offered and afforded us every assistance and also treated us with the most marked politeness particularly myself who am indebted for many tokens of friendship. 566
3529
35301791. October.
3531
3532
3533
3534The 30th and 1st of October were employed in getting out the frame and sending it ashore where the carpenters were assorting and getting it in readiness to erect the smiths were also sent ashore with their tools to begin their work. 567
3535
3536On the 3d we had a very pleasant day when the keel of the vessel was laid which was named the Adventure. the pinnace with an armed party was sent to procure logs to be sawed into plank.
3537
3538In the morning of the 4th sent four cannon, forty muskets several blunderbusses and pistols and a quantity of ammunition ashore to the house which was now called Fort Defiance to which Mr. Haswell was appointed to the command with [117] a party consisting of twenty men this day the frame of the Adventure was erected.
3539
3540The 5th and 6th were employed in unreeving the running rigging stripping the ship launching and housing the topmast[s] a party was sent to procure logs for plank the 7th a sawpit was built and on the 8th began to saw plank etca.
3541
3542On our arrival the natives were busy in removing their village from Inistuck to Okerminna a village at a much greater distance for which reason we have had but little of their company until this day
3543
3544-- 249 --
3545(the 12th) when our visitors were pretty numerous and from whom a few skins were purchased.
3546
3547On the 13th the coopers were employed in overhauling our provissions repacking and repickling such as wanted it.
3548
3549The 16th I went out in a canoe which Captain Kendrick purchased of the natives and made me a present of a shooting I left the ship early with an intention of seeing the village of Okerminna 568 it was noon before I arrived at Inistuck 569 which must be at least ten or twelve miles from the ship I proceeded a few miles beyond this when seeing nothing of the village and finding if I went farther it would be very late before I could reach the ship which would give an unnecessary alarm I returned to Inistuck before which is a clever snug cove in which there were many geese, ducks and teal sporting here I landed in order to get a shot [118] at them one of the people that was with me who also landed in creeping along the edge of the bush saw an animal which I conceiv'd to be an alligator the man was so agitated as not to be able to give any other description of what he had seen than that it was a huge animal very long with a large mouth and teeth the neck about as thick as his thigh and so tapered of to the tail with a black back and light yellow belly I immediately repaired to the place where this animal had been seen but could not get a sight at him from this circumstance I was induced to think it was only a burnt log (of which there are many about here) which the man's imagination had formed into a most frightful monster I have since informed the natives of what was seen who inform me there is an animal which from the description of them as they are painted on their canoes as also one they drew with chalk on board the ship as they are pretty good imitators can't be far from the thing and are very different from the alligators found in the southern parts of our side of America these having a long sharp head something like a hound with a good set of teeth the rest of the body in every other respect like a serpent it is called by the
3550
3551-- 250 --
3552natives a Hieclick and by them much reverenced they tell me this animal is very scarce and seldom to be seen living principally in the woods they offered me twenty skins if I would procure them one for they have such a superstitious idea that if they should have but the least peice [119] of this animal in their boat they are sure to kill a whale which among them is deemed one of the greatest honors indeed a peice of this magic animal 570 insures success at all times and on all occasions.
3553
3554On the 18th the coopers finished the provissions which were all stowed below a few of the natives visited us but nothing was purchased. In the evening Captain Gray who had been out a shooting returned when Mr. Boit who accompanied him inform'd that about five o'clock three indian canoes with eleven men armed came into a cove where he was waiting for game they saw him landed and came up to him one of them seized on his cartridge box and broke it from the belt when it fell to the ground he immediately put his foot on it levelling his musket at the same time at Tootooch a chief who remained in one of the canoes they then gave a shout left him went into their canoes and paddled away for the jolly boat which was now seen coming down the flats they came up with the boat Captain Gray's great coat laying in the stern sheets they took hold of that one of the people levelled his musket at the rascals but still kept on rowing until they had got Mr. Boit aboard he then pointing his gun at the chief ordered them to desist and go of or he would immediately fire upon them they then agreed if he would tell them where Captain Gray was they would go he told them down to Opitsitah where he was not they left him [120] and paddled away with the greatest precipitation for that place Mr. Boit then went across the sound to an island where Captain Gray was took him in and they returned to the ship it is very probable these were a parcel of fellows employed by Tootiscoosettle to get revenge for Captain Gray's taking him sometime since as has already been mentioned 571 as these people did not appear to have a wish to hurt anyone else and all their enquiries were for him.
3555
3556-- 251 --
3557On the 21st two canoes with natives visited us in one of which was Tootiscoosettle whom we suspected to be the employer of those fellows that sought for Captain Gray a few days since but this visit gives me reason to think we judged him wrongfully there being several shoals of sardines in the cove Tootiscoosettle requested the loan of two long poles with these and their paddles they began driving the fish in shore which continued to run round and round being curious to see what they would be doing I went in the boat with Captain Gray and joined the canoes when they had got these fish into about four feet water two men jumped overboard out of each canoe went ashore and got a number of green boughs with these in their hands they waded in the water driving the fish in shore when they had got them in about two feet water they made an inclosure with a number of those boughs so that none could escape it being ebbtide they were soon left dry [121] when they were gathered from of the ground if it is flood tide or the water don't leave then they scoop them out with a net by this method the natives got as many as they wanted and we sufficient to last our ship's company a day we frequently afterwards tried this scheme ourselves but could never make it answer though the natives never failed and when they saw us to work would endeavour to put us right never was their vessel that wanted a seine more than we do for our people might have a daily supply of fish with which the cove constantly swarms in vast shoals as none of these fish will bite at the hook save some small sculpions and now and then a salmon trout we are therefore obliged to be contented with this and what the natives see fit to supply us with.
3558
3559The weather since our coming into the cove has been in general warm and pleasant but from the 22d to the 28th we had very stormy rainy weather blowing in severe squalls this and the 29th we had heavy thunder and sharp lightning from the westward during this bad weather there could be no work done but what was in the house or between decks in the ship.
3560
3561Our whaleboat being so bad we were obliged to condemn her and as another boat was necessary to replace it the 30th being a clear
3562
3563-- 252 --
3564pleasant day a party was sent to erect a frame and thatch it to serve as a shed where the carpenters in bad weather might build one this also would serve to stock the [122] plank that was sawed from time to time to keep it from the inclemency of the weather
3565
35661791. November.
3567
3568
3569
3570this shed was finished on the 3d of November on the 7th the pinnace was dispatched to procure knees for the Adventure and timbers for the yawl the 9th the weather again becoming stormy the carpenters began the framing of the yawl the 12th and 13th we had heavy thunder sharp lightning and rain.
3571
3572The 14th the weather again got settled and it became pleasant when the pinnace was dispatched with a party to procure more knees and boat timbers in the afternoon the carpenters finished planking the vessels bottom and on the morning of the 15th began to fix in the top timbers.
3573
3574On the 16th we had a heavy gale which blew in violent squalls one of which struck the ship which caused her to drag the anchor was supposed to be foul but on heaving it up was found clear it was again let go when we came to our old moorings.
3575
3576Having determined to make the Adventure larger than was origionally intended an addition number of top timbers were requisite for which purpose the pinnace was sent on the 19th with a party to procure them the pinnace soon returned with one of the people who had his nose split open and was otherways badly wounded by the fall of a tree the wounded man was taken on board to be dressed and another put into the [123] boat to supply his place when she was again dispatched we were visited to day by some few of the natives from the Ahouset tribe to whom we expressed our want of oil for our lamps this want they soon supplied by daily fetching of it to us in large bladders made from the intestines of some fish which was purchased for trifles such as bits of iron, fish hooks, knives, buttons gimblets etca.
3577
3578The morning of the 21st there was a very light frost discovered on our decks but there was none to be seen ashore this is the first that has been perceived though we nightly had heavy dews the pinnace was this day dispatched to procure some spare spars for the ship.
3579
3580The 25th frost was again seen on the decks the pinnace was
3581
3582-- 253 --
3583dispatched to procure logs for to be sawed into boards a party was also sent in the small boat a gunning and the carpenters began sealing the Adventure.
3584
3585The 28th a party was sent in the long boat and pinnace to procure wood at a grove of alder about a mile distant which was brought and landed near the ship to be cut up small and got in readiness to be taken on board the vessels in the spring at sunset I accompanied Captain Gray with a small party in the jolly boat to the village of Opitsitah 572 to wait for Deer the tracks of them having been frequently seen by those who had been down a gunning at midnight we returned having met with no [124] success the two following days we were visited by a number of the natives who brought us a supply of wild fowl and oil.
3586
3587Having frequently expressed to the Chiefs my wish to visit their village of Okerminna which they as frequently told me was not navigable for such boats as ours it being situated at the head of a long narrow river which was obstructed by several bad falls at some they were obliged to land walk over and take canoes on the opposite side at others they must watch the tides and go over with the greatest care notwithstanding which their canoes often got upset and the people were drownded but that they would bring a canoe on purpose for me finding this was only done to amuse me and that they did not intend I should visit their village I became the more curious and desirous of going Tootoocheetticus being aboard to day I insisted on going with him in his canoe he made a variety of objections such as the distance dangers and the like he finding I determined to surmount every difficulty he should throw in the way finally told me he was not a going home but going to some other village from these circumstances and being advised to no longer persist in what might prove fatal to me I now gave up all hopes of ever seeing this village but from the best information I could collect from the natives must be at least forty or fifty miles dis-[125]tance from the ship for they tell me they leave the village in the afternoon and arrive at the ship in the forenoon of the following day they also tell me they paddle all night and as they generally appear to be
3588
3589-- 254 --
3590much fatigued I am induced to believe it now admitting this as their canoes seldom paddle less than three and often six miles an hour that I think after making every allowance for stopping etca. etca. it is a pretty moderate calculation this they tell me is a fresh water river and that they move there for the benefit of catching salmon with which it abounds. 573
3591
3592The 3d of December our old friend Captain Hanna brought us a fine deer which was purchased the carpenters this day finished sealing the vessel.
3593
3594The 6th and 7th we had stormy weather the latter day it was squally which caused the ship to drag hove taut the slack cable the following day the weather again became fair hove up the anchor unbent the cable run it out and made fast to a tree then hove them all taut.
3595
3596On the 10th the wood cutters were sent to procure more wood Captain Gray went on a party a gunning in his excursion he stopt at Opitsitah where he found Wickananish and a few of his tribe just removed from Okerminna a building their houses. [126]
3597
3598The 14th the pinnace with a party was sent to procure logs to make boards in the afternoon the carpenters finished the vessel's plank on her sides on the 15th we were visited by Wickananish and several of the chiefs of whom were purchased six good skins the latter part of this and all the following day we had heavy thunder, sharp lightning, hail, rain and sleet.
3599
3600At the earnest solicitation of a number of the Chiefs I on the 22d (of the month) accompanied Captain Gray to the village of Opitsitah to see Yeklan the youngest brother of Wickananish we were received at the beach by a Chief with about forty young men who conducted us to the house of the sickman chanting an agreeable though solemn air as we went and making our arrival known to every one in the avenue to the house we were greeted by a number of the populace who had assembled on the occasion on entering the house we were received by Wickananish who presented us to his father and mother they received us with the most cordial affection
3601
3602-- 255 --
3603and said or seemed to say save the life of my son and restore him to health who until now we had not seen having been obscur'd by six stout men who are a set of priests and doctors that do every thing by m[a]gic some of these were pressing on his belly and breast others sucking his throat making at times a most hideous noise which [127] is answered by the voices of a great multitude that had thronged the house now and then those men would pretend to scoop something up (as though it was water) with their two hands and then blow it way thus those men would continue to press and feel about the young man's body till they pretendedly would get hold of the evil spirit that was the cause of all his malady then seize on him as before mentioned and blow him away. 574
3604
3605The sickman was laid on a board covered with mats stripped perfectly naked he appeared to be much emaciated those men had workt him into a high feaver and he had a pain in his bowels and limbs as we had judged the young man wanted nourishment so it was we had therefore brought him down some fowl soup and our servant made him some panado, boiled some rice etca. etca. we then left him though not until both he and his father made us promise a daily visit we were frequently asked both by him his father and several of the other chiefs if we thought he would die they were answered in the negative provided those men were not allowed to press him any more which was promised should be the case.
3606
3607The cause of this young man's illness is an excess of grief at the loss of his only child which died a few months since this he took so much to heart as scarce to be persuaded by his friends to [128] receive sustenance sufficient to keep him alive add to this about three weeks since he visited us at the ship on his return he caught a bad cold and he will ere long in all human probability fall a sacrifice to his immoderate grief such is the affection of people whom we deem savages to their children.
3608
3609These people as yet have only erected temporary huts within the framings of their houses their being but a small part of the tribe come down the hut where we visited the sickman which is the only one we enter'd there was scarce room to stand upright and but a
3610
3611-- 256 --
3612small shelter from the inclemency of the weather as the boards were not so close but that you could see through all parts and it was not necessary to remove those on the roof to give a passage to the smoke with which the hut was continually filled this hovel was dressed out to the best advantage with peices of copper, bits of iron, pearl shells, strips of cloth etca. etca. hung up with strips of bark and decorated with eagles feathers in fact the whole presented one of the most lively scenes of human wretchedness.
3613
3614On the 25th Wickananish with a number of the other Chiefs being previously invited honored us with their company to spend Christmas day their ladies were at the same time invited and came up in their canoes but they could not be induced to come on board rather preferring to tarry [129] in their canoes and receive what we chose to send them from our festive board which the Chiefs their husbands dictated there is one dish we had I can't help remarking which on our side of the Continent at this season of the year would be thought a curiosity this is a wortleberry pudding which is and has been in high perfection with several other sorts of berries ever since we came into the cove there not having been as yet frost sufficient to kill them which is a little extraordinary in this high latitude.
3615
3616The people as this is a day of festivity in many countries and a day on which all nations ought to rejoice was given to them and the house at the Fort granted them to spend it in which at daylight in the morning they neatly and fancifully decorated as also the vessel on the stocks with spruce boughs interspersed with the various flowers of the season they were allowed as many fowl such as geese, ducks, teals etca. as they could eat also of grog and every other thing a double allowance and to their credit be it spoken they spent the day with the greatest propriety not in noisy mirth making a drunken frolic on such an occasion as if common among sailors but with social glee and good harmony endeavouring to throw of the ruffian and imitate the gentleman when the day was spent they all returned to their respective duties not the least intoxicated with liquor. 575 [130]
3617
3618On the 31st we again visited the sick chief who appears to be
3619
3620-- 257 --
3621mending fast we had not been long there before a number of women came in and ranged themselves on each side of the room three deep and about twenty yards in length then the chief ordered them to entertain us with a song which was performed by upwards of two hundred men and women the music was rude but agreeable it being both vocal and instrumental the vocal part being performed by the women and the instrumental by the men their instruments are various one was an empty chest slung to a beam very handsomely painted and adorned with eagles feathers a man with a stick bound round with caeder bark struck on this which served for a drum several others with long poles striking against the boards on the roofs of the house others again with various hollow instruments in shape men, birds or any other figure their fancey suggests these had a few pebble stones in them which they struck against their hands and had a very good effect 576 when they first began to sing an elderly woman stood out in the center making a variety of the most ridiculous motions and gestures soon after another came out and so on to four these appeared only to serve to excite laughter and merriment the exactest time was kept during the performance by the voices motions and gestures of all as those who sung accompanied their voices by the motions [131] of their hands and bodies the spectators were more than double the number of the musicians and yet in the other houses there was scarce a perceptible diminution of there numbers I asked the sickman if this singing was not disagreeable to him he told me no but on the contrary was very pleasing for he said a few nights since the moon when he was asleep told him that if he had have had a great deal of singing his child would not have died and unless he himself had he would also die therefore he every day should have a concert superstitious wretch but thou art only a child of nature.
3622
3623These people now have their village compleat the houses are built over the frames 577 and are large commodious and not inelegant.
3624
36251792. January.
3626
3627
3628
3629January the 1st 1792 being new years day a general
3630
3631-- 258 --
3632liberty was granted to all the people and a double allowance served them on the 2d many of the natives visited us from whom two skins were purchased as also a few fowl.
3633
3634The 3d the Calker began calking the Adventure's bottom and on the 4th the pinnace was dispatched to procure more knees.
3635
3636On the 6th we were visited by many of the natives with skins among the rest was Cassacan the chief of Nittenat who still retains the loathsome disease he had when we visited him at his village the natives now demand [132] muskets, powder and shot for their skins which now supplants copper and cloathing.
3637
3638The 9th the steerage was parted off to make a more convenient place to put our skins the Carpenters this afternoon finished beaming and kneeing the Adventure.
3639
3640On the 10th Captain Gray and myself went down to the village in the jolly boat to visit the sick chief 578 when we arrived at the beach and were on the point of landing as Captain Gray went to move his gun it went off the charge just grazed my side went through our two great coats the stern of the boat and one of the shot into a natives arm who had just paddeled clear of the stern otherways he would have received the whole charge our situation would then have been the most critical for though it was an accident yet in all probability it would have been construed otherways and we should have fell an innocent sacrifice to an inraged multitude for it would have been impossible for us to have got away as their canoes will paddle much faster than our boat could row luckily however the gun was only charged with swan shot as we had been killing a few geese in our way the native therefore got but little damage we dressed his wound as well as we were able gave him a knife and he appeared to be satisfied we then [133] proceeded to the sickman's house where we as in general found Wickananish to whom I told what had just happened he heard it without the least emotion and laughed when I asked him what he would have done with us if the man had have been killed and said those who come to his village peaceably shall never meet with uncivil treatment.
3641
3642-- 259 --
3643We had not been setting in the house long when about a dozen stout fellows came in some with paddles others with peices of iron etca. I can't say but that on the sight of these people I felt myself in a most disagreeable situation Yeklan's wife no doubt observing the emotions of my mind which I willingly would have concealed very kindly said to me don't be afraid of those people they won't hurt you they belong to Esquoot 579 and have come to see my husband I felt myself ashamed at my emotions having been observed and at the same time all the tenderness of her language -- there was a place cleared for these people and they all came and set down after having being seated a short time they each held two chizzels in their hands when one got up and made considerable of a harangue in an audible voice then one of Yeklan's people got up and answered him after a few responses those chizzels were received and laid at Yeklan's feet [134] when the whole household three times sung out clacko clacko clacko thank ye thank ye thank ye.
3644
3645On the 12th we had many natives aboard with the Chief of the village Etshouset 580 from whom was purchased a Deer and two geese.
3646
3647The first part of the 16th was rainy and disagreeable but it clearing in the afternoon the old Chief brought his youngest son Yeklan aboard who is very sick and requests Captain Gray's permission to let him stay on board and be doctored which is granted. 581
3648
3649Having had frequent invitations from Chiefs since their removal to Opitsitah to spend a few days with them at their village and on my refusal have been told I was afraid and that they would leave another Chief on board the ship while I was gone having now another invitation from Tootiscoosettle whom I could not well refuse and as his father and brother were on board the ship there was no danger to be apprehended I therefore went in his boat accompanied by Mr. Boit 582 and tarried until the following day at sunset when I returned
3650
3651-- 260 --
3652not a little pleased with my excursion though I was not aware until my return of the bad construction that might be put on my visit by lascivious minded people for as these natives are remarkable for their chastity so my honor if not my inclination would [135] not permit me to wish them to swerve from it.
3653
3654As soon as we arrived six men received the canoe from the surf and carried her up on the beach where we landed dry Tootiscoosettle immediately sent to inform his brothers and the other chiefs of our arrival and in the mean time conducted us to his house at the upper end of which they spread clean mats and placed boxes for us to set on but scarce were we seated before the house was thronged all the Chiefs came to welcome us and requested our company at their houses on the morrow particularly Wickananish who requested we would honor him with our company at a ball he should order at his son's house on the morrow -- the chief now very politely asked me what I would eat I pointed to some herrins I saw hanging up he ordered them to be brought and had them roasted which was done by thrusting a stick through them standing them up before the fire and now and then turning them until they were done when they were brought and laid before me on a clean mat these with some bread and salt that I brought down with me I made a very good supper in which Wickananish and Tootiscoosettle both joined me there was water brought me in a clean tinpot to drink but the chief expressed much regret at the same time that he had no kind of liquor to offer me 583 and said if he had have had one days warning every thing should [136] have been more to my mind supper being finished and every thing cleared away he now asked me to choose what part of the house I would sleep in this as I was under his roof I left for his determination he then ordered a large chest to be brought and placed just back of where I was setting upon which was spread several mats and a sail a small box with a moose's hide buff leathered (which is one of their war garments) 584 served for a pillar and
3655
3656-- 261 --
3657a sea otter skin cootsack 585 hung on a pole for a curtain which served to screen me from the sight of the populace this he said was for me and asked if it was agreeable to my wishes on my answering in the affirmative he said I was at liberty to retire whenever I pleased thus did this good man endeavour to accomodate me in as much stile as his situation was capable of.
3658
3659About ten o'clock the people began to disperse when they cooked a quantity of fibrous roots which they eat with oil these appear to be the roots of clover and other grass and are by no means unpallatable after this the chief ordered all their fires out and we retired to bed he lay on some mats alongside of me and a row of his people lay to guard us so that it was impossible to get up without awaking some of them [137] the Chief told us if we attempted to walk without one of his people attending with a torch we should certainly be killed and if we wished to walk at any time two of those people should attend us.
3660
3661I found these people kept a diligent watch six or eight men running about the beach all night with lighted torches every now and then calling to each other 586 some small canoes also rowing guard and the door way of every house guarded by one or two men for what reason they kept this watch I could not rightly learn whether it be for fear of other tribes attacking them (which is always done in the night) or of the wild beasts they pretend the latter but I have good reason to conclude the former is principally the cause.
3662
3663At daylight in the morning Wickananish sent for Tootiscoosettle to come to his son's house I being awake he requested me to accompany him we found but few at the house when we first entered but it soon began to fill when Wickananish harangued them the[n] Tootiscoosettle and afterwards another chief named Hannappee who is high priest and Wickananish's uncle's eldest son after several discourses by these three different Chiefs which at the conclusion of each [138] was answered with loud shouts the people were ordered to depart.
3664
3665-- 262 --
3666The purport of these harangues were to the following effect that whereas the eldest son of Wickananish to whom he had given his name and taken upon himself that of Hyyoua had become old enough to head his whaling canoe (a lad about twelve years old) he had given it up to him that it was expected in future they would look up to him as their Chief and in case his boat got upset or destroyed by the whales all who paddled in her must expect instant death but should they prove successfull they would meet with every mark of Wickananish or Hiyoua's pleasure and according to ancient custom he had already been giving them and had had some singing and dancing that in four days he should give them a great deal more the meantime they must dedicate to mirth and festivity.
3667
3668After the greater part of the people had dispersed leaving only a few of the principal men Wickananish (the name I shall continue to call the chief) told them he had determined to have an extraordinary dancing and singing to honor his visitors or as he calls us "Tiyee awinna" or travelling chiefs to which they agreed when it was notified throughout [139] the village by a man who was sent round for that purpose he entered all the houses and with a loud and audible voice ordered the men to appear at a certain time at the further end of the beach dressed in their best array.
3669
3670I now left the Chiefs and went to Wickananish's house where I was introduced to several Nootka chiefs from this I went to several others houses being importuned by the Chief of every house to visit him for scarce would they let me pass their house without entering every where I found them dressing they would first go bath and wash in the saltwater afterwards wash themselves in freshwater then wipe dry the women would then rub their faces with deers tallow which they would heat by chewing then paint and oil their bodies and dressing their hair in various fashions I was pleased to see the attention these females paid to their husbands who seemed to vie with each other whose should be best decorated.
3671
3672About ten o'clock they began their dancing and musick when Tootiscoosettle came and desired me to stay with him he being lame did not join them telling me if I mixt in with the mob very probably I might be insulted which he should be the more [140]
3673
3674-- 263 --
3675sorry for as the persons would not be known therefore it would not be in his power to punish them.
3676
3677They came along the beach very slow singing and dancing to the exactest time sometimes two or three chiefs dancing from one end to the other on the shoulders of the company Wickananish himself marching in front from right to left ordering the dancers there were four women on each who served as musicians they having a copper machine with pebble stones in it which they rattled and sang at the same time finally the company arrived opposite the house of young Wickananish being at least three quarters of an hour coming not a quarter of a mile where they gave a genteel dance then rushed up the passage one by one Tootoocheetticus leading the way I suppose there were about two hundred in this company after the principal part of them had got in I entered with Tootiscoosettle who placed me on a good seat on one side and Mr. Boit on the other side of him the house was clean and neatly decorated with the branches of spruce and fir a number of other natives now entered the house to assist in singing who were placed round in two rows having [141] a board placed before them and a small stick given to each for to strike on it no women or strangers were admitted to be actors in the company but those women who acted as musicians before mentioned how many there were in the house that sung I know not but should suppose nearly six hundred besides there were nearly twice as many who stood without and were spectators.
3678
3679After a short respite they began to sing at the same time shaking their rattles and striking on those boards with their sticks which though a harsh confused noise was to the exactest time and by no means unpleasing after singing several songs in came two men with a couple of bundles of laths on their shoulders the outer ends all of a blaze they run round and round several times before the company skipping and hollowing which was answered with loud laughs from the whole company then they laid them down in the middle of the room and went and fetch'd more with some large billets of pine wood and made a great fire they then again began to sing and after singing several more songs they began to dance which they did by squatting on their hams and jumping to the [142] musick
3680
3681-- 264 --
3682round the fire frequently whirling round two or three times in the air after singing and dancing two or three more tunes the scene closed with a frantic dance jumping and catching hold of their peoples garments or flesh Tootoocheetticus caught hold of one fellows cootsack who sat at my feet with his teeth making a jump with a whirl at the same time and tore it in too after this they all dispersed. 587
3683
3684To describe their various dresses would fill a volume scarce any two being alike the principal part had their bodies painted of a dead red their faces variously some of a shining black others red, others white again others black and white or black red and white variegated according to fancy etca. their heads as various as their faces in general they were incrustated with grease and paint strewed with down and dressed out with small branches of the cypress and the long feathers of the eagles tails stuck up on top of their heads they wore a garment which was tied round their waist and hung as low as their knees a flaxen stuff tied in a bow just below the knees which hung to the ground and another bow of the same sort tied round the thick of the arm again others with dresses quite [143] the reverse taking the whole together they formed the most savage grotesque appearance I ever beheld. 588
3685
3686We were invited by Tootoocheetticus to take dinner with him which we did on clams and fish which were both boiled and roasted after dinner we went to Tootiscoosettles to whom I expressed my wish of returning he immediately ordered a boat to be got ready and manned we then paid each of the Chiefs another visit and taking our leaves left them.
3687
3688While we tarried at Opitsitah we were treated with the greatest politeness and attention by all ranks of people every one seeming to make it his study to render our situation agreeable and happy but none more so than our friend Tootiscoosettle who immediately on my arrival appointed two men to wait and tend upon me these people conducted me wherever I chose to go preeceeding me and proclaiming who was a coming.
3689
3690-- 265 --
3691At eight o'clock on the morning of the 20th Tootiscoosettle came to invite Captain Gray and myself down to the village he said Wickananish was going to give a great deal both to the Chiefs and people and wished to give us some skins Captain Gray [144] being indispos'd declined the invitation and I excused myself as I knew those presents would cost much dearer than if the skins were purchased 589 and let them be given to whom they may they would be sold to us in the end this Chief was by no means pleased with our not accepting of Wickananish's invitation we sent the sickman off in this Chief's canoe who has become so filthy that there is no enduring him. The topmast were this day sent up and rigged.
3692
3693The 23d we were visited by many of the natives from whom were purchased a few skins, two deer and several geese and ducks.
3694
3695On my enquiring of the natives they have frequently given me to understand that this front land from de Fuca's straits to the northward of Chickleset was an Island or rather I suppose a group of Islands 590 that the people who live at the mouth of the Straits go up them in their canoes and procure skins from the natives there and that the Nootka people walk over land having among our visitors this day two Chiefs from the latter place Clahquahkinnah and Hannahpiset I again brought on the subject when they confirmed what I had before heard they [145] say that in one night and part of a day some of their chiefs walk over particularly Maquinnah and Nassapy who go often and that those back chiefs walk over to Nootka 591 on the back side of Nootka from their description is a large bay full of Islands on which the natives are very numerous and from whom most of their skins are procured for a very trifling consideration in comparison to what they are afterwards sold to foreigners. 592
3696
3697-- 266 --
3698On the 25th the Calker finished calking the Adventure's bottom and on the 27th she was graved on the 31st a gang of hands was employed in fitting the Adventure's rigging.
3699
3700At nine o'clock this morning a large canoe with six natives came from the village with a request from Wickananish that I would come down and visit his sick brother I accordingly went in the canoe on my arrival at his house I found the sickman much emaciated and very low I carried him down several things that I thought would be serviceable to him which he received with the greatest seeming gratitude and for which I had the thanks and benedictions of all who were present among whom were his father mother wife and eldest brother from this I visited Tootoocheetticus who [146] two days since had lost an adopted son a fine lad of about twelve years of age I found him laying with his face towards the ground his wives in the same position upon my entering he raised his head and held out his hand for me to come to him I went he cordially took me by the hand and seated me on his couch then told me of his misfortune his eyes at the same time bedewed with tears which trickled copiously down his cheeks the tear of humanity which I in vain endeavoured to check now started from my eye and I was already a partaker of his grief and sincerely condoled with him at his loss at the same time persuaded him it was best to be resigned to the Almighties will he then desired that I would not and requested me to desire Captain Gray to not think hard of him if he should not come to the ship for several days for he said he should not leave his house till his sorrows had got sufficient vent which time alone could accomplish This was truly a house of mourning and if among civilized nations the shewing of a decent sorrow for the death of a child or friend is praise worthy how much more is it so among savages who from their untutored life can be scarce thought a degree above the brute creation. [147]
3701
3702As humanity in every stage of life is pleasing more particularly when found with the savage who inhabits the wilds of america it therefore I hope will not be thought improper in its being remarked in this place the lad whose death has been just mentioned was a native of Claheset a village on Tootooch's Island situated at the mouth of the straits of de Fuca his mother was a sister to Tootoocheetticus
3703
3704-- 267 --
3705593 his father died a few years since when Tootoocheetticus took this boy and adopted him for his son and in every respect treated him with the most paternal affection.
3706
37071792. Febuary.
3708
3709
3710
3711On the 1st of Febuary the Calker began calking the ship's sides and upper works the 2d all the empty water casks were sent ashore to the Fort 594 and at seven in the morning of the 3d unmoored ship and hauled her alongside of a steep rocky bank w[h]ere she was made fast it being intended here to discharge the ship previous to her being hauled ashore to grave.
3712
3713I was much against the ship's being hauled to this place 595 as it unnecessarily put us in the power of the natives in this situation the Ship and Fort being out of sight of each other no assistance could be expected they being divided into two seperate parties there [148] force of course was weakened which should the natives take advantage of and carry either it would not only be the loss of lives but the ruination of the voyage on the other hand it was answered that the natives were very peaceable and friendly and there was no cause to apprehend any danger from them that it was much more convenient to discharge the ship at this place than in the way I proposed which was to land every thing in our boats at the Fort that we might be ready at all times to support each other in any case of emergency but those who had the conducting of this bussiness thought it less trouble to themselves to haul to this place it was therefore determined against my opinion and as I could not prevent it I only told Captain Gray I hoped the natives would not take any advantage of the opportunity which was now presented them.
3714
3715This day the carpenters finished decking the Adventure and the Columbia began to discharge.
3716
3717The 5th the Carpenters, calkers and others in theirvarious branches this is the first sunday our people have been employed but the season for cruizing is now approaching so rapidly that it has become absolutely necessary.
3718
3719-- 268 --
3720From the 7th to the 11th [149] the weather was stormy with severe squalls and much rain this day the cannon were landed the ship cleared and washed through out.
3721
3722On the 14th the natives visited us having heard several guns fired the last evening I asked the Chiefs the cause of it when Tootoocheetticus informed me he had been learning his people to fire havi[n]g placed up a board on which he drew a figure the size of a man as they were shortly a going to fight the Hichaht people 596 he wanted his to know how to fire in the night.
3723
3724The 16th the Calker finished calking the ship's sides when a party of the people were sent to cut and make brooms split up some dry wood and get every thing in readiness to grave.
3725
3726At six the following morning the ship was unmoored and hauled to the beach at Fort Defiance for the purpose of graving at two in the afternoon it came on to rain (which continued until midnight) but this although it gave considerable trouble did not prevent the paying that side of the bottom which had been but just finished scraping and burning it was Captain Gray's intention to have hauled back to the bank the [150] night tide and wait a better opportunity to grave the other side but the tide did not rise high enough to float the ship in the morning at seven o'clock the ship being afloat and the weather by no means appearing to be settled the ship was hauled to the bank.
3727
3728Yesterday we were visited by Wickananish and several other of the chiefs who gave me an invitation to come to there village to day being in want of some boards 597 at ten o'clock I went in the jolly boat to bargain for a parcel on my arrival at the village I found Wickananish superintending some people who were making canoes which he said was for the purpose of whaling every body appeared to be busy never in my life did I see all ranks so engaged.
3729
3730I was not as usual permitted to rove at large young Wickananish 598 having strict orders to attend me wherever I went and prescribe the
3731
3732-- 269 --
3733houses to which I should enter in some of which they were making spears barbed arrows etca. others prepairing guns and making shot etca. I demanded the cause of all this preparation they said shortly they were going to destroy a tribe not far distant called Hichahats 599 who had not of late in every respect paid them that homage which they thought due to so great a nation I [151] returned to old Wickananish and enquired concerning this war and when it was to commence he said in two months shew me the canoes in which he should go which had been new fitted and painted up saying they would carry from twenty to thirty men each at the same time asked me if I would go with him and was not afraid.
3734
3735Hearing a confused noise in his house I expressed a desire to pay his wifes a visit he peremptorily told me I should not go I then asked him what all that noise meant he said two days ago a canoe with two men and a woman in it struck on a rock and upset that the woman was drowned and they were bemoaning her loss this excited my curiosity still the more and I attempted twice to go the first time I was called back he saying if I went they would throw stones at me and kill me that he himself was afraid to go I told him I was not and set out a second time when I was forcibly stopt by a man who seized my by the coat and brought me back I was diverted from attempting it again as Wickananish's father invited me to go to his house which I readily accepted and went but here I did not meet with that friendly treatment to which I had been so usually [152] accustomed while here the natives brought in many barbs and spears for the old man's approbation one of the latter of which he laughingly measured if it would go through me I tarried here but a little while before I again returned to Wickananish whom I now found holding a counsel with some old men and I could plainly perceive the debates ran high though on my approach they desisted I told him I wished to purchase some boards thinking this would gain admission to his house but this scheme would not do he as before sent his eldest son with me to some of the lower peoples houses I went purchased what I wanted and again returned to Wickananish with whom I now endeavoured to appear to be much
3736
3737-- 270 --
3738offended telling him at the same time that he had never been denied admission into the ship, cabbin or house and asked him why he denied me his house he then consented I should go if I would wait until a man he was going to send to the house should return as soon as this man returned he took me by the hand and we went to his house the noise was now discontinued and the house in general appeared as usual save one square place which was formed by mats hung on poles about eight feet high and reaching to the ground in [153] this there was still continued a confused noise and it was a considerable time and after long persuasion before I was permitted to go near or look into it and then not till after they had called out to them but there was nothing to be seen only a parcel of people squatting round looking at each other like so many mumchances when I left them the noise again began a man now stood up on a box that he was above the mats to see that I did not return which I did several times by various circuitous motions in hopes of not being perceived but a fellow who followed me round always gave notice of my approach when the noise was discontinued one of my people in coming near this sacred place had several stones thrown at him which had I not perceived him in time he would have had the rashness to have returned some disagreeable consequences would of course have ensued finding it therefore useless to attempt to gain any further information at five in the afternoon I took my leave. 600
3739
3740The tide having but just began to make about a quarter of a mile above Opitsitah my boat grounded on the flats which detained me until after sunset.
3741
3742During my tarry at the [154] village Wickananish was very importunate to know whether we had done graving the ship if it was good weather to morrow we should grave the other side if she now lay at the bank and particularly if she would lay there all night also how many days after she came of the ground she would lay there to all which questions I gave such answers as would satisfy any person but a credulous savage.
3743
3744A little without the Cove I saw Tootiscoosettle he was in his
3745
3746-- 271 --
3747canoe laying close under the island I saw him and called to him he came and said he had just come from the ship he asked me if I had done coming to Opitsitah and insisted on my promising to come to morrow saying his wife Whattlewhyotlah of whom I was a favourite was unwell and wished exceedingly to see me Tootiscoosettle now asked me similar questions to what Wickananish had done before concerning the ship and to whom I gave similar answers. he then told me Captain Gray had been taking some cloathing away from him which if I would have returned to him he would come for in the morning this I afterwards found to be some cloathing belonging to the boatswain that had been stole from the ship this was hardly a [155] prudent step in Captain Gray as I was gone to their village for one moments reflection would have given him sufficient reason to think if the news reached the village before my departure they would retaliate on me. 601
3748
3749I now parted with this chief and soon got aboard of the ship where I found them all in the greatest consternation and much rejoiced at my return telling me they never expected to see me more.
3750
3751Captain Gray now informed me of a conspiracy concerted by the natives to take the ship and murder us all this information was given by Ottoo our sandwich islander who says Tootoocheetticus asked him how many men kept watch a nights if Captain Gray did etca. to wet our guns knock the priming out of our small arms and pistols and give him powder and ball that he with his brothers and a number of their people were a coming to night to take the ship that they should land on the opposite side of the bank walk through the bush and could then easily jump on board the ship kill the watch and every soul on board but him that he must run to them on the first onset that if they succeeded he should be [156] made a great Chief and they would give him plenty of skins afterwards as though Tootoocheetticus suspected Ottoo would discover the plot he said they would come in two nights and not to night as his brothers could not be ready until then.
3752
3753I now made enquiries myself as I could hardly credit what the
3754
3755-- 272 --
3756boy said not thinking is possible for so much ingratitude to exist in the human heart especially in those who appeared to be so much our friends and with whom we have so long lived on such good terms men who have been treated by us like christians and brothers who eat at our table drank of our cup partook with us of the best the ship afforded and that could be procured who had their sick attended and every thing we were possessed of requisite for their relief freely administred that they should now seek our lives is an action which none but a savage heart is capable of conceiving had we have treated them ill or as some people have an idea savages ought to be treated had we have ravished their women despoiled their towns destroyed their fisheries or committed any depredations whatsoever they would have just grounds [157] for this inhuman conduct and would by no means be blameable for seeking revenge but the contrary of all this has been the case the modesty and chastity of their women has been admired and commended by us and the severest punishment to any one who should dare to insult them their fisheries we have encouraged as also their hunting and fowling by purchasing whatever they chose to spare in fine we have endeavoured to gain the good will of all ranks of people belonging to this tribe to instil into their minds noble and generous ideas of our nation and to efface from them all savage principles this in some measure we had the vanity to flatter ourselves was accomplished till this unfortunate period which puts it beyond a doubt that it is impossible for an honest honourable or gratefull principal ever to enter the breast of a savage.
3757
3758But it was not revenge for any injury they had received for which they were seeking it was alone to possess themselves of our property which to them appeared immense and which in a similar situation in a more civilized country would have been a temptation to many. 602
3759
3760On enquirery I found it was by one of those accidents which
3761
3762-- 273 --
3763[158] always discovers the most savage plots and brings to light the most secret murders that we came to the knowledge of this.
3764
3765Mr. Smith 603 having observed Ottoo and Tootoocheetticus to be talking together for some time he seperated them and ordered the boy about his work but they soon found means to be together again Mr. Smith after seperating them several times at last spoke pretty harshly to both Ottoo and Tootoocheetticus telling the latter he was talking bad to Ottoo though not suspecting what it was the Chief immediately sneaked into his canoe and went off.
3766
3767Ottoo now goes into the caboose where was one of the people and says to him what is Mr. Smith mad with me for does he think I talk with Tootoocheetticus to come and take the ship this created much suspicion in the man's breast who questioned Ottoo pretty close when he told the story nearly as I have before related the man now told Ottoo to go and inform Captain Gray immediately or he would and then Captain Gray would kill him Ottoo as he supposed to save his life informed and thus were we [159] accidentally saved from being all massacreed and probably the greatest part of us in our beds.
3768
3769I cannot but be surprized at their not detaining me and my boats crew at their village and can assign no other reason for their not doing it than the fear of giving the alarm to the ship thinking at the same time a few hours could make but little odds when they were so sure of having me.
3770
3771It was now the general opinion and therefore was determined that the ship should be hauled on shore and graved to night as in our present station we could neither afford assistance to the Fort nor the Fort to us if the natives should attack us in two parties and they might overpower one but the ship being on the ways we could afford mutual assistance to each other whereas should their party be divided their plan of attack would be frustrated in some measure.
3772
3773As soon as the tide served the ship was hauled on shore the meantime was employed in getting the arms and ammunition in compleat order and readiness for the attack it was a most beautifull starlight [160] night we had got the bottom of the ship
3774
3775-- 274 --
3776scraped and nearly burnt when the natives gave a most dismal whoop this was between one and two o'clock in the morning the people who belonged to the Fort flew to their arms and those who belonged to the ship was by no means behind them in less than five minutes every man was to his quarters with arms and ammunition ready for action never did men keep a sharper look out or appear more determined but to be conquered by death alone.
3777
3778We continued to hear the most dreadfull shrieks or whoops till day began to dawn they appeared to be in two parties the one sounded from towards the bank where the ship had laid the other from the gap opposite to the Fort I suppose those shrieks or whoops must have been the order for retreat the Chiefs were frequently called to by name telling them we were ready for them and to come on but were always answered by a dismal shriek no doubt with me it has been long in agitation with them to take us and their fetching the sick chief aboard was a manoeuvre to see what look out we kept of nights.
3779
3780As soon as the ship floated which was about nine o'clock we hauled back to the bank where we [161] had scarcely made fast before a canoe with three of the lower people entered the cove they approached us with evident signs of fear they brought a few fish for sale as an excuse which were purchased when they left the ship they would frequently turn round point to the place on which they landed view the ground position of the ship and Fort etca. another canoe with three women in it came about noon they brought fish and leeks but would sell them for nothing but powder and shot Captain Gray ordered them to immediately depart with a promise of giving them a plenty of both those articles when we should come down to Opitsitah 604 the people in both these canoes were very particular in enquiring whether we should lay at the bank all night etca.
3781
3782Immediately on the ship's being made fast the people were set to work reloading her which by their activity and industry notwithstanding they were up all the preceding night they accomplished and the ship was hauled off to her moorings before sunset the Carpenters Smiths and others with their tools and every thing that
3783
3784-- 275 --
3785was thought valuable was brought on board from the Fort the cannon were discharged and thrown out of their [162] carriages that they might not be used against us the Adventure was secured with additional shores to the roof of the house adjacent trees etca. and if it was not impossible it would be at least a work of time for the natives to throw her down finally the Fort was abandoned for the night and all retired to the ship there was a quarter watch set and every one who slept lay upon his arms but the natives did not think it prudent to disturb us.
3786
3787In the morning of the 20th the carpenters and others with a strong guard were sent ashore to the Fort to get the Adventure in readiness to launch as soon as possible.
3788
3789About noon we were surprized after what has happened on being visited by the father of Wickananish and Tootiscoosettle they approached us with the most specious shew of friendship though their countenances betrayed the most evident signs of fear the old gentleman came on board but Tootiscoosettle would not 605 the former of which brought a sea otter skin cootsack and the latter two sea otter skins 606 these Captain Gray took from them and told them to go to Yethlure and Yeklan to whom a musket and cloth cootsack had been [163] lent for their pay these chiefs were then ordered to depart and never to return again on pain of death 607 I was sorry for this as it effectually shut up our source of trade which is our principal bussiness on this coast and we now have no longer a right to expect to be able to procure any more skins from this tribe who as yet have done us no farther injury than alarm us confine us to the cove and within the reach of our vessels out of which at present we have no bussiness it is therefore a pity to make an open rupture with people from whom no harm is to be expected but it must be attributed to a sudden irritation which will cause a man to do things often that he will afterwards be sorry for.
3790
3791On the morning of the 22d a forge was erected on deck for the
3792
3793-- 276 --
3794smith to work at at noon the Adventure was ready to launch when they started her she ran a little more than her length then stopt the ground proving false her ways sunk under her the carpenters immediately went to work blockt and shored her up again relaid the ways and properly secured them and the following day at noon she was launched 608 and hauled alongside of the Columbia firing a salute with three cheers there was no natives in the cove [164] at this time that we saw though there were several canoes with natives laying out side and a looking in.
3795
3796The 24th the people were employed in procuring ballast and restowing the hold it being necessary as every thing was got on board in a hurry and promiscuously the 25th a party was sent to take the boards of the house as they were wanted on board the vessels and to send off every thing that was valuable one canoe with natives brought us fish and on the 27th we had three canoes with natives who brought both fish and fowl which were purchased on the 28th we began filling water and getting of wood which was compleated in the afternoon of the 1st of March. 609
3797
37981792. March.
3799
3800
3801
3802The 2d 3d and 4th we had stormy weather the latter day much thunder and lightning with hail rain and sleet the weather became more pleasant on the 5th when the calker began calking the ship's counter Tootooch brought us a few fowl and some other natives a few fish on the 8th the spare spars were got in between decks.
3803
3804On the 14th the boats were procuring ballast for the Adventure the 15th the people a scraping the Columbia's sides and bends and paying them [165] shortened the Adventure's mast four feet and stept it the 16th a party employed a rigging the Adventure Cassacan the Chief of Nittenat visited us he brought six fine skins which after bartering about the price all the day long he was going to carry of in the evening but Captain Gray took them from him and paid him the customary price this I thought impolitic as through this man we might be able to purchase all the skins in this village
3805
3806-- 277 --
3807but Captain Gray thought otherways and if this chief was permitted to carry of these skins we should get none at all. 610
3808
3809On the 18th delivered the Adventure a twelvemonths provissions and part of her cargo on the 19th a party in the boats were procuring her water we were visited by a number of the natives who bring us plenty of fish and leeks.
3810
3811At seven o'clock in the evening of the 21st Benjamin Harden our boatswain departed this life and on the following day about noon after performing divine service his remains were interred on shore at Fort Defiance 611 this man has for many months lingered under that most disagreeable disorder the diarrhaea which it was not in the power of any medicine we are possest [166] of to divert this man was a good seaman and well respected in his office The spirits of this man was surprizing the night we expected to be attacked by the natives at a time when he was not able to be removed from his bed he begged that he might have a pair of pistols laid along side of him that should the natives overpower us he might shoot the savage who came to take his life then says he I shall die in peace.
3812
3813On the 23d bent the sails and filled up what water has been drank out.
3814
3815In the morning of the 25th we had light airs with rain and sunshine alternately at noon it cleared and became pleasant at two in the afternoon cast off the fasts hove up the anchor and towed out of the Cove the wind coming a head would not permit us to go down into the harbour we therefore cast anchor in five fathom water as did the Adventure at a short distance from us Clicksclecutsee 612 or as we called it Adventure Cove bearing south 78° 45' east one mile distant round island north 0° 15' west a quarter of a mile and the rocky islands south 22° 30' east four miles distant at half past five the following morning again hove up and came to sail [167] with the ebb tide doubling round the islands which lead into the
3816
3817-- 278 --
3818harbour the tide ran so rapid and we not doubling sufficiently short it swept us close to some rocks when the small bower anchor was let go which fetched the ship up in six fathoms water the rocks about eight or ten yards astern a kedge anchor and hawser was carried out to the northward the sails furled then the bower anchor hove up hauled off by the kedge took it up and ran into the harbour 613 under our staysails where we came to with the small bower and moored with the best to the southwest when moored the ship in six fathom water the flag staff at Opitsitah bearing north north west harbour island south half west and Fort [Defiance] east by north the Adventure was already moored in company we were by some of the natives visited who brought us fish and leeks but no chiefs came these natives had been at our winter quarters which their canoes plainly evinced from the quantity of rubbish they had in.
3819
3820At four in the afternoon the wind veered to east south east and blew in heavy squalls with thunder lightning hail rain and sleet this continued until about two the following morning when in a severe squall it shifted to [168] the opposite point of the compass but the storm abated none in its violence it still continuing with hail rain and sunshine alternately until the evening when it abated the wind again veering to the eastward with constant heavy rains.
3821
3822In the afternoon of the 28th the weather having become more settled I went on shore at the village of Opitsitah from which the natives have removed to Ichahchiss 614 a village in the roads this village has every appearance of having been left with precipitation by the natives as they had left many of their domestic utensils scattered about the houses and hid back of them in the bushes I here found abundance of various sorts of greens springing up which after my people had gathered a sufficient quantity I returned aboard.
3823
3824On the 29th a canoe with a few natives from the Etshouset tribe fetched us a deer which was purchased and in the afternoon of the next day we were visited by Clahquahkinnah 615 a Nootka chief now
3825
3826-- 279 --
3827residing at this place no doubt with a design to reconnoitre our post and see what reception he would meet with he was received civilly but at the same time shown that we were always prepaired for an attack. [169]
3828
3829As we are now about leaving this place 616 though contrary to my wishes not on the most friendly terms with the natives for which cause little knowledge can be expected to be derived from any future intercourse with them no doubt it will be thought from our wintering in this harbour that every information must have been obtained respecting this people and their country but it is to be remembered that soon after we went into winter quarters the natives removed to Okerminnah where they continued until the middle of december this village was at so great a distance as to have never been visited by any of us and our visits by the natives were casual and unfrequent the middle of december as above mentioned they began to remove to Opitsitah this village was also at too great a distance for a frequent intercourse with each other from these circumstances our knowledge can only be considered as superficial for no doubt when any of us visited those natives at their village as is common with more civilized people so with them they put the best side outwards as what little knowledge has been obtained may not come amiss I will here subjoin it. [170]
3830
3831This Harbour or rather this district or tribe is called by the natives Clioquot and as has been before observed by Captain Gray Hancock's Harbour it is situated about twenty leagues to the east south east of Nootka in the latitude of 49° 9' north and longitude 125° 26' west the enterance to this harbour is through a roads 617 about five miles in length where there is good anchorage the only obstruction in the passage through the roads is two sand spits the one running off from the eastern the other from the western shore to go clear of these you will run close in to Observatory Island steer from thence north north west until you get the passage into the harbour open on the eastern side of Harbour Island (there is a passage on the other side of the island but not so good) you may
3832
3833-- 280 --
3834then venture to keep away for it keeping Harbour Island shore aboard till you are in the gap then by doubling round the eastern point you will find good anchorage in six or seven fathoms water over a sandy bottom about a mile from the shore. 618
3835
3836There is a number of Islands of various sizes scattered about the harbour also several sand banks or spits and many fine coves in one of [171] the latter which was best suited for our purposes we wintered this harbour is well sheltered from almost every wind the tides run very strong it is high water full and change at twelve o'Clock and rises fourteen feet from the sketch of the harbour which accompanies this 619 a better idea may be formed than from any description I can give.
3837
3838The land towards the sea shore is pretty low and level but back it rises into hills some of a moderate and others of a great height that of one of the former which I measured was two thousand six hundred and forty feet there is but little good soil which is on the low land and in the vallies and is formed from decayed trees rotten moss and leaves which are swept down from the mountains by the heavy torrents of rain which fall in the winter season this is about two or three feet deep and would with care admit of cultivation were the natives so disposed except these every other part appears to be one continued mass of rocks which makes it very astonishing how those large trees (with which the land is every where well covered) on the sides and summits of the mountains are supported.
3839
3840The climate of this [172] part of the country (if I may be permitted to judge) is certainly much milder though not so healthy as that on our side of the continent it is neither so hot in summer nor so cold in winter which considering the latitude and its being on the same continent is much to be wondered at the frost through the winter was never so hard as to impede vegetation the snow which fell was very light and this only two or three times indeed what fell was little more than sufficient to bare the name though we could frequently when it rained with us plainly perceive it snowed on the mountains The bad weather began to set in on the 10th of november
3841
3842-- 281 --
3843and continued till towards the last of december for the greater part of which time we had stormy weather with almost constant rain the wind from south east to east south east but when it veered to the westward which it sometimes would the weather became fair I have found at all times on this coast that an easterly wind was a certain prognostic of an approaching storm while a westerly wind was quite the reverse from this time the weather became more settled storms and rain were less frequent and it daily grew milder inso-[173]much that there was but little difference between this and summer and what in a less parallel of latitude at this season of the year in our country would be deemed incredible is that many of the berry bushes have been for some time in blossom the grass grown to a considerable heighth and vegetation of all kinds in great forwardness what can be the cause of this climates being so mild I will not pretend to say or even hazard a conjecture on 620 but if the natives may be believed it is not always so for according to their accounts it was a very moderate winter.
3844
3845The trees with which these woods are composed are white yellow and pitch pines fir black and white spruce hemlock red and white cedar white cypruss black and white alder elder wild cherry crab apple and a tree with a leaf ressembling the hemlock the bark of a deep crimson the wood much like the west india red wood and nearly as heavy as lignum vitae it is called by the natives "Wetap" besides these the natives informed me there was oak birch and maple growing at Okerminnah but I could never persuade them to bring a peice of the wood or a leaf of the tree this together [174] with having never seen any thing made of those woods in their possession induces me to think they told a fiction 621 the trees here grow with the greatest vigour and to an amazing size.
3846
3847About the borders of the woods grow spontaneously a variety of bushes such as the wild red and white rose black currant gooseberry whortle berry blue berry black berry the mulberry leafed raspberry and a berry ressembling our thimbleberries besides these there
3848
3849-- 282 --
3850is a large bush whose leaves not a little ressemble the orange leaf but of a much darker shining green the berry is large of a black colour and has a very pretty taste 622 also a tall bush with a small light green leaf somewhat similar to the leaf of the barberry bush which bears a scarlet berry twice as big as a currant and of a most delicate taste 623 the former of these bushes are called by the natives "Yahmah" and the latter "Esinnuah" among the rocks are found strawberry vines and pigeon or partridge berries.
3851
3852In the spring there are leeks or small onions hogweed nettles thistles wild mustard wild parsnip wild parsley wild cellery two sorts of wild tanzey purslin sorrel camomile blue violets mullen wild pease clover [175] and several other sorts of grass on the lowland there is plenty of samphire water cresses and lillies there is also a root ressembling the ground nut found on our side of the continent and tastes when raw like an acorn this is called by the natives "Poke" which was discovered to be the root of the wortleberry bush they have also a root similar to sassaparilla which is of a sickish sweet taste and stickliquorish which the natives call "Sheetlah" within the woods there are two or three sorts of fern some mosses and various other plants unknown to me.
3853
3854The only quadrupeds seen by us were deers wolves raccoons squirrels land otters martins mice and once one of our people saw a bear though their tracts were often seen about on beaches our knowledge therefore of the animals is chiefly deduced from the skins found in possession of the natives or brought by them for sale and I doubt whether all these belong to the animals of this place our imperfect knowledge must be attributed not to want of inclination but to the impossibility of penetrating far into the forests it being so filled with underwood fallen trees and craggy rocks which are so rotten that at every step you are in danger of tumbling down some [176] precipice at the hazard of your life or at least your limbs excursions of this sort for these reasons were seldom attempted therefore those animals seen by us were only what chance or hunger forced out to our view.
3855
3856The skins are bears, wolves, foxes, rein, fallow and moose deers,
3857
3858-- 283 --
3859land otters, raccoons, brown minks, martins, beavers, wild cats, grey rabbits, the large grey and small brown squirrels common in our country and mice. The fallow deer, wolves, (which are grey) raccoons, squirrels and martins are found in great abundance bears are scarce and the skins much valued by the natives for cloathing they are large and of a beautifull shining black land otters are also scarce much smaller than those found in our country and their furr inferior that domestic animal which is so generally admired and commonly found with the natives on this coast is not here 624 at which on expressing my surprize the natives gave me to understand that some few years since the whole tribe agreed to destroy them that they might be freed from that part of the filth which these dogs contributed.
3860
3861The amphibious animals are the common seal and sea otter as a traffick in the skin of this latter animal [177] is what principally induced us to visit this coast a short description of it may not be improper this animal when young is of a dirty white with long course hair which being hauled out leaves a short chesnut coloured fur its colours change through its natural gradation of life as it grows older the fur grows thicker blacker and longer with less hair till it arrives at its maturity having the belly and head at this time of a yellowish white after this as it still continues to grow older the longer hairs or fur are tipt with white until it becomes of a beautiful silver grey and I have no idea they degenerate from this though it is the opinion of some people they do and that they turn of a light brown no new skins I ever saw brought for sale were of this colour but old ones and those that have been much worn are and it is well known that air and age will soon turn the blackest skin to a chesnut brown without the addition of oil paint and dirt which they contract from being worn by the natives this animal in shape much resembles the seal it has a very good set of teeth which are remarkably white and much valued by the natives the largest skin of this animal that I saw measured six feet two inches from the [178] end of the nose to the tip of the tail and three feet ten inches in the widest
3862
3863-- 284 --
3864part the fur of this creature is certainly much finer and more delicate than any heretofore known the discovery of this coast has therefore opened a new source of commerce which if committed to proper hands would be a most valuable one. 625
3865
3866The feathered tribe are not very numerous nor do they form any great variety ravens, crows, brown eagles with a white head and tail, herons, robbins, house and bank swallows are the most numerous besides these there are three sorts of wood peckers the Virginia red birds yellow or bastard canary birds snow birds, long tailed thrushes ground birds tomtits sparrows wrens blue jays partridges quails a small species of hawks owls pigeons and doves and several sorts of humming birds add to these the water fowl which are pretty plenty from the last of august until the beginning of march there are two sorts of geese the one ressembling the common wild geese found on our side the continent the other brown and from its tameness was denominated foolish geese by our sailors there are also brants two sorts of ducks shags shilldrakes and teals large loons several sorts of divers and gulls seapies plovers murrs marsh larks [179] peeps the large crested American king fishers and a few flocks of swans were once or twice seen there was also a bird about the size of a hawk with a large crest and of a dark bottled green seen flying about the woods this bird was scarce and seldom to be seen we were therefore never able to procure and of course only had a distant sight of them.
3867
3868Fish are every where found in great abundance on the coast are hump back, right and bone whales as also very large sharks and common porpoises within the harbour in coves and creeks are salmon and a fish which appears to be of the same species two feet long and upwards with the end of its nose turning down like a hawks bill a small gold and silver bream flounders cod halibut elephant fish sculpins frost fish a fish in size of the pamp fish having narrow longitudinal blue stripes on a ground the colour of burnished gold there are also red and black fish about the size of and much like those known by the name of red and black snappers in the west indias small gaff fish, coal fish, dog fish, herrins, sardines, scates and
3869
3870-- 285 --
3871a fish in size and shape of the mackarel found on our coast and is exceeding fat this fish was supposed by some of [180] our gentlemen to be a species of the herrin it may be so but for my own part I must confess it is very different from any fish at present known to me.
3872
3873The herrins and sardines as is usual with those fish come in at stated seasons in large shoals as also the two sorts of breams and may be reckoned the most numerous next to these are the salmon which in their season are caught in great plenty and are the fish on which the natives almost soley rely for their subsistance the other fish are caught in small quantities in their various seasons and made use of occasionally.
3874
3875The shell fish seen by us were muscles some of which are seven inches in length in which are found pearls of no great value; limpits, sea ears, cockles, perriwinkles, snails, scollops, quohogs, clams, wilks, crabs, pearl sea eggs and starfish some of which had sixteen or eighteen rays there was also a soft flabby substance the natives procured from among the rocks which had a very disgustful appearance and got the appellation from our people of horse guts. The kelp is of the "Fucus gigantius" described by Mr. Banks in the straits of Lamaire; a red and brown sponge, eel grass and rockwood; large branches of coral have been seen in possession of the natives [181] but whether it is found in this place or procured from their neighbours I don't know but suppose the latter as none of us ever came across any.
3876
3877The only reptile that was seen is the "hieclick" before mentioned and from the natives it was not learnt there were any others. The insect tribe are pretty numerous the flies are of various sorts; musquitoes, knats, some humble bees, gooseberry and rose moths, beetles etca.
3878
3879The rocks which constitute the mountains peices of which are to be found on the shores is hard and of a greyish cast but when broken is of a dark blue or slate colour. Their were no ores found with the natives except a red ochre substance. The natives informed me that in the woods back of Okerminnah they procure a stone which by calcining they make their black shining glimmer of though I was never able to procure a peice of the stone yet I must confess it has all the appearance of having undergone that process the rest of their
3880
3881-- 286 --
3882pigments are produced from vegetable substances or got in exchange from their neighbours.
3883
3884The natives who inhabit this place are in general about the common stature by no means muscular and strong [182] built but tolerable fleshy though not corpulent and a lean person is scarce found among them they have broad full visages the cheek bones rather prominent the face falls in between the temples quite back to the crown of the head which is pressed forward so as nearly to form a line with the forhead which is low their eyes small and black the nose flattens at its base with large nostrils the mouth long and large with thick lips teeth pretty regular well set and tolerably white.
3885
3886As many of the origional inhabitants on our side of the Continent have been found divested of beards some writers have presumed to say they never have any while others have disputed on the cause of such deficiency be that as it may I find it natural to the people on this but it is customary with them particularly the young men to pluck it out those who let it grow have a considerable with long whiskers their eyebrows are scanty from the same cause of plucking what remains is with grease and a black pigment neatly formed into a narrow arch on the head they have a plenty of hair which is coarse long black and strong. In general their limbs are not in proportion to the rest of their bodies they have short crooked legs projecting ancles which appear to be swelled and a large flat sprawling foot these latter [183] defects are entirely occasioned by their continually setting or squatting on their hams and both from inclination and want of place not making use of that most agreeable exercise of walking.
3887
3888These people keep their bodies so covered with grease paint and dirt that it is almost impossible to ascertain their true colour though when they have been prevailed upon to wash it off their skin appeared of that sallow white which distinguishes the inhabitants of our southern states many of the natives when young are very agreeable and full of vivacity but after a certain age they are much reserved with a certain sameness which borders on a dull thoughtfull disposition. The women are in general rather shorter than the men of the same colour but of a more delicate form. their natural feminine graces sufficiently evinces the sex and by which they are
3889
3890-- 287 --
3891easily distinguished. many of the young women have considerable pretentions to beauty; indeed all have an open pleasing countenance which added to a modest pretty carriage that is not to be expected in untutored people at once surprizes and charms a virtuous mind from their constant squatting they are scarce able to walk and it has frequently given me pain to see them try it is in this position alone that they have [184] any way an unpleasing appearance.
3892
3893Their general dress is a mantle 626 with three sides square the other which is the bottom on a circular sweep and fringed the upper part has a narrow strip of fur sewed round it and the sides are edged with small cord in form of network this garment is made of the inside bark of caedar which is soaked in water and beaten until it becomes of a flaxen state their mode of wearing these garments is various sometimes tying them before behind or on one side again they are put under one arm and tied over the opposite shoulder in this latter way both arms are left free and is wore most common when at work or paddling in their canoes they have another thing made of the same substance called a "Cletanick" with a hole in the center just big enough to admit the head this hangs over the shoulders and reaches as low as the elbows the hole in the center of this is also trimmed with fur and the bottom fringed this is worn in addition to the mantle indeed this flaxen dress is peculiarly worn by the women and lower class of men the chiefs always wearing two or four sea otter skins sewed together with the head downwards tied as the other garments the fur sometimes inside and sometimes out according to fancy they also wear a peice of cloth [185] cut in the same shape with their mantles or a great coat this latter is not much liked indeed they appear to have a natural aversion to our garments they being too confined for people who love to be loose for their legs and feet they have no covering their dress is constantly the same summer and winter though the chiefs sometimes make use of the addition of a bears, deers or wolfs skin. on their heads they wear a cap made of very fine matting in shape of a cone or sugar loaf with a round knob at the top. 627 they have another of a coarser
3894
3895-- 288 --
3896matting of the same shape with a flat top and tassels of leather thongs these are tied under the chin to prevent their blowing off the former of which is only worn by the chiefs but the latter is by the women and common men though they very frequently go without any covering in rainy weather they have a coarse thick mat made for the purpose which they heave over their shoulders and which serves well to shelter them from the inclemency of the weather the chiefs wear their hair clubbed or qued and frequently decorated with the small branches of cypress the common men and married women let their hair hang loose while the unmarried and girls wear it in four or six clubs done up with beeds or have it hung with peices of copper pearl shells buttons etca. [186]
3897
3898Their is another dress which remains unnoticed and appears solely to be adapted for war this is a thick leathern mantle doubled and was supposed by some of our gentlemen to be the skin of a moose 628 others of a sealion the fact is none of us knew from anything we saw no judgment could be formed nor could it be learnt from the natives with any precision to what animal it belonged nor whether it was procured by themselves within their own territories or from their neighbours by barter but let it be procured where it may it is neatly worked well tanned and kept elegantly white and clean some few that I have seen are painted with a variety of fancy figures this garment is tied over the right shoulder with a hole cut for the left arm and so fixed as to cover from the chin down to the ankles from the natives account this will not only resist arrows but even spears cannot peirce it once also they had an idea shot could have no effect upon them but they too fatally know the contrary now they have also a leather apron and a leather cloak covered with rows of deers hoofs placed in various directions this latter part of the dress is only worn by the chiefs and is intended not only to strike terror into their enemies [187] but as they always attack in the night to keep their people together.
3899
3900That these people are Cannibals is beyond a doubt 629 not from anything we saw but from their own confession and much credit is
3901
3902-- 289 --
3903due to them for their diffidence in making it known for it was not until after they were frequently questioned and an acknowledgement made on our part that it was the case with us that they would own it and when again they were told we only said so to know if it was their custom they appeared to be much abashed but with a modest firmness would not deny what they had before asserted this inhuman custom is only practised on those whom the fortune of war throws into their hands and is conducted in the following manner the men people are collected at the Chiefs house for the purpose of music and dancing a number of those unhappy prisoners are at the sametime present joining in the sport not knowing whom fate has decreed to be the victim on this occasion each possibly consoling himself with the vain hope it is not his lot or mayhap with the more pleasing idea that the time is come which will put an end to all his misery in the midst of the music several Chiefs enter dancing after taking a few turns 630
3904
3905-- NA --
3906
3907Robert Haswell's Log of the Second Voyage of the 'Columbia'
3908-- [293] --
3909
3910A Voyage on Discoveries in the Ship Columbia Rediviva; By Robt. Haswell
39111791. Sunday, Aug. 14th.
3912
3913
3914
3915Wind ESE. 631 The wind so light and variable that it prevented our sailing, though the weather was pleasant.
3916
3917Monday, Aug. 15th.
3918
3919
3920
3921Wind WNW. Light breezes and variable. At 9 weighed and attempted to beat out, but the tide being contrary we came too in 30 f[atho]m water and waited its return. At 2 PM weighed and beat out of the harbor, hoisted in the boats and set steering sails. At 8 PM Port Tempest bore N b W distance 15 miles, and Masachree Cove 632 West 9 miles. Latter part pleasant.
3922
3923Tuesday, Aug. 16th.
3924
3925
3926
3927Wind WNW. Moderate and pleasant. At 1 PM saw a brig in the SE quarter and at 2 hailed her. She is the Hancock of Boston, Saml. Crowell commander. They sailed from Boston the beginning of November, touched at St. Salvadore, at Staten Land, and at the Sandwich Islands, and arrived on this coast in July, having had a longer passage than ourselves. The brig bore up and run to the south in company with us. Wind variable. At sunset Murderer's Cape bore West, distance 5 leagues.
3928
3929Wednesday, Aug. 17th.
3930
3931
3932
3933Wind SE. Light breezes from the southward. At 2 AM saw a ship to the westward. At 4 Washington Islands bore from WSW to South about 10 leagues distant. Stood along shore with the depth of water from 1 to 3 f[atho]m, beat into Hancock's River, and at 2 PM anchored in 6 f[atho]m water over a [2] bottom of mud with the small bower and 70 f[atho]m of cable, with an excessive strong flood tide. At 2 the brig 633 anchored not far distant from us. Latter part rainy, disagreeable weather. This port, though we discovered it on our former voyage, we never entered till now. It is one of the best places for sea otters on the coast, and early in the spring will no doubt afford us a very considerable
3934
3935-- 294 --
3936number. Its Lat. I judge (for I had no observation) is 54°16' N and Long. 132°23' W. 634
3937
3938Thursday, Aug. 18th.
3939
3940
3941
3942Wind Variable. Fresh breezes and pleasant. I was employed sounding the river 635 up to a considerable distance and found it everywhere navigable. There were several small scattering villages, but there were visible traces of numerous tribes residing here at some season of the year, but those that came on board us made us understand their village was removed two days' journey up the river. When sounding the river I went on board the Hancock and invited Capt. Crowell and Mr. Crayton the supercargo to accompany me on board. This they readily agreed to, and as he intended to go out, he got underway and stood down the river, and when we came abreast of our ship the gentlemen accompanied me on board, ordering the officer of the brig to keep as near us as possible, and if the tide should run too strong, to anchor.
3943
3944About 10 PM we were surprised to find the brig was ashore. Our boats were immediately [3] dispatched to their assistance, but before we arrived she was off. From what I could collect from the different stories 636 they told us, I find they have been on no part of the coast but about 30 leagues in circumference round the place we are now. That they had to the amount of 700 skins and were bound to China in the course of 15 or 20 days and meant to return again in the spring. They were so polite as to be the bearers of our letters.
3945
3946Friday, Aug. 19th.
3947
3948
3949
3950Wind Variable. Light breezes with rain. At 10 AM the Hancock sailed. Many of the natives came off with good skins. Seamen employed in the repairs of the rigging, and other ships' duties. Purchased a fine fish. Geese were very plenty, but since the death of our friend, 637 our sportsmen have become timid, fearful of being caught by the natives in an ambuscade. We ran no hazards and no geese were shot. Wind SE.
3951
3952-- 295 --
3953Saturday, Aug. 20th.
3954
3955
3956
3957Wind WNW. Early in the morning it was foggy, with drizzling rain. Some of the natives came off with skins, but as the brig Hancock had been here several times and her long boat almost constantly, we had good reason to suppose we should find other tribes that were better stocked with skins, and at 9 AM we weighed with a westerly wind and an ebb tide and beat out of Hancock's river. 638 At 1 PM the tide [4] turned and we came to with the best bower in 6 f[atho]m water, over a bottom of hard sand, 4 miles distant from Hancock's river; it bearing S by E 5 leagues distant, the NW part of Cape Hancock 639 W½S 2 leagues distant, the SE part of Murderer's Cape, NNW. At 5 PM with a fresh breeze from the westward, weighed and stood to the northward to clear the shoals of Cape Lookout. Cape Hancock is in Lat. 54°18' N and Long. 132°34' W. Cape Lookout is in Lat. 54°24' N and Long. 131°56' W and Murderer's Cape is in Lat. 54°43' N and Long. 132°23' W from Greenwich.
3958
3959Sunday, Aug. 21st.
3960
3961
3962
3963Wind NW. Under snug sail we stood to the NE until 3 AM when we spread all our canvas and stood to the SE with the depth of water from 7 to 12 f[atho]m about 4 leagues distant from the Islands.
3964
3965At noon Cape Lookout bore NW distant about 8 leagues. The breeze was fresh. We stood along shore till ½ past 5 PM when the Island off Comsuea village bore SSE, 3½ leagues distant. Shortened sail, handed the mainsail double reefed the topsails, and hauled our wind to the NE. Fresh gale and clear. At 11 PM wore ship the southward.
3966
3967Monday, Aug. 22d.
3968
3969
3970
3971Wind WNW. Moderate breeze and pleasant. At 4 AM made sail for Cumsuea Village, Toochcondolth. Found the variation of the compass by an azimuth and ampd. of the Ỡ20°2' E. Fetching in far [5] to leeward we made several tacks to endeavor to gain a more commodious anchoring place, but the tide was strong against us, and at 9 PM we came to in 35 f[atho]m water. Toochcondolth bearing N by W distance 2 miles. Our anchoring
3972
3973-- 296 --
3974place is in Lat. 53°2' N and Long. 131°31' W. 640 A good many of the natives came off with their Chief, but skins were not so plenty among them as they were when we visited them last, and we soon found Ingraham was in the neighborhood. 641 Of course it was thought advisable to make but a short stay. Wind SE by E. Having set up our rigging, at 1 PM we weighed and stood to the eastward, and at ½ past 2 saw a boat rowing towards us, frequently firing muskets, and we heard several cannon fired up a sound to NW of us.
3975
3976We bore down and the boat soon came alongside.
3977
3978It was Mr. Crup 642 in the Hope's boat with a message from Capt. Ingraham, informing us that he intended to leave the coast in a few days, and if we had any commands he would be happy to be the executor of them. They seemed to hint they had purchased an excellent cargo. 643 The latter part was calm.
3979
3980Tuesday, Aug. 23d.
3981
3982
3983
3984Wind NNE. The breeze springing northwardly we set all our light sails, directing our course to the ESE.
3985
3986At 8 AM the northwardmost land in sight bore NW by W and the southwardmost SE by S.
3987
3988Toochcondolth W 6 leagues. At noon I observed our Lat. 52°37' N our Long. at this time was 131°31' W. Variable winds and calm all the latter part. [6]
3989
3990Wednesday, Aug. 24th.
3991
3992
3993
3994Wind WNW. Moderate breezes and pleasant. With all sail set at 4 AM Cape Haswell 644 bore S by W distance 7 leagues, and at noon it bore SW by W½W distance 10 leagues. Latter part moderate breezes and pleasant weather. At noon this day my Lat. was 52°5' N and my Long. 130°12' W.
3995
3996-- 297 --
3997Thursday, Aug. 25th.
3998
3999
4000
4001Wind WNW. Moderate and pleasant, with all sail set steering to the southward. At noon my Lat. was 50°51' N and Long. 129°45' W. At 6 the southwardmost part of the continent in sight bore E by S distance 16 leagues. The wind hauling to the southward (SE), took in all steering sails, and braced sharp. Being gloomy towards midnight we took in topgallantsails and staysails, and single reefed the topsails.
4002
4003Friday, Aug. 26th.
4004
4005
4006
4007Wind between South and East. Light breezes and pleasant weather. At noon our Lat. was 50°35' N and our Long. 129°38' W. The breeze was exceedingly light and variable. Tacked ship several times. At 7 the southwardmost land bore E by S and the westwardmost Island NW by W. 645 Many whales playing about the ship.
4008
4009Saturday, Aug. 27th.
4010
4011
4012
4013Wind Variable. The weather exceedingly pleasant. Lat. observed 50°16' N and Long. 129°40' W. At noon a breeze sprung up from the NW and we made all sail, Royals, Topg[al]l[ant] and Steerings. At 8 PM passed Woody point. [7]
4014
4015Sunday Aug. 28th.
4016
4017
4018
4019Wind W by N. Light breezes and pleasant weather, standing to the southward with all sail set. At noon the entrance of Nootka Sound bore NE by E distance about 11 leagues. Our Lat. at this time was 49°22' N and Long. 127°26' W. At 7 PM the entrance of Nootka Sound 646 bore N by W distance 8 leagues. The latter part exceedingly pleasant.
4020
4021Monday Aug. 29th.
4022
4023
4024
4025Wind NW. Light breezes and clear weather. At 3 AM shortened sail and hove to, maintopsail to the mast, and at ½ past 2 hove about and made sail for Clioquot. At noon the entrance of the Roads bore NE distance 3 leagues. Observed our Lat. 49°4' N. 647 This day's work contains 36 hours to commence the harbor log. At 4 PM a canoe came off and informed us that Capt. Kendrick was in the harbor. At 5 saw his boat coming off.
4026
4027Fired a gun and hoisted our colors. This was answered and he came alongside and was saluted with three cheers. Capt. Kendrick
4028
4029-- 298 --
4030after the sale of his skins at Macao, began to make his vessel a brig. 648 This operation being under his directions, took such a length of time that he lost his season on this coast and was obliged to stay at Lark's Bay till the ensuing spring, when he sailed in company with Capt. Douglas, 649 and touched at Japan. Not finding a good sale port for their Furs they made but a short tarry. Separating, Capt. Kendrick had but 8 weeks passage and arrived the 13th of [8] June eight days later than ourselves.
4031
4032This, considering the immense length of our passages, discharging our cargo in Boston, repairing our ship thoroughly, new masts and spars, and fitting with everything necessary for this immense voyage is truly surprising, and must convey an idea that our former commander is not a very urgent man of business. The first port he arrived in was Barrel's Sound, 650 where the natives attempted to capture him. In this, however, they were mistaken, and a great slaughter was made among them without shedding blood from any of Capt. Kendrick's crew. 651 He had very poor success to the northward. This tempted him soon to leave that part of the coast and proceed to the southward. He entered Nootka Sound prepared to defend himself against the Spaniards. They were equally ready and by what I could collect from the officers, they had it in their power to have sunk them at pleasure, but they were not hostilely disposed, and they passed the port and proceeded to Mahwina, the Spanish launch being sent to assist in towing them up. 652 While they were in this port the Spaniards treated them with great hospitality, sending them daily supplies of greens and salads. Capt. Kendrick did not
4033
4034-- 299 --
4035think it prudent to pass the garrison again so left the place and went out by the western [9] passage, which though not very good, affords very good harbors. While he was in Nootka Sound and its environs he collected upwards of 8 hundred prime sea-otter skins. He next came to this port and has also had good success. He has upwards of twelve hundred skins and is bound immediately off the coast. 653 Wind calm. At 7 PM anchored in the roads and in about an hour weighed, the tide flowing, and towed farther up, but it was too dark to enter over the bar, so anchored again to wait till morning.
4036
4037Capt. Kendrick spent the evening with us and went late aboard his own vessel. Saw two ships which we supposed to be Spaniards, pass this port standing to the southward. 654
4038
4039Tuesday, Aug. 30th.
4040
4041
4042
4043Wind WNW. Early in the morning it was calm and pleasant. At 8 AM weighed and towed into the harbor and anchored with the small bower in 6 f[atho]m water. At 2 moored ship with the best bower to the NW.
4044
4045I spent the latter part of the day with Capt. Kendrick at Fort Washington. He had hauled his brig on the ground to grave in a very convenient place, and the place where the provisions and stores were landed, was fortified, and dignified by the appellation of Fort Washington.
4046
4047Wednesday, Aug. 31st.
4048
4049
4050
4051Wind WNW. Light breezes from the westward and exceedingly pleasant. People employed in scraping and painting the lower masts and repairing the rigging. The natives off with skins, but as they came not abundantly [10] it was reasonable to suppose Capt. Kendrick had purchased most of their stock. 655
4052
4053Thursday, Sept. 1.
4054
4055
4056
4057Wind Variable. Light breezes and cloudy with light showers of rain. A party of our sportsmen out shooting geese, which were in tolerable abundance.
4058
4059-- 300 --
4060Friday, Sept. 2d.
4061
4062
4063
4064Wind S. Moderate breezes and pleasant. Natives off with skins.
4065
4066Saturday, Sept. 3d.
4067
4068
4069
4070Wind S. Moderate breezes and pleasant. People employed in the necessary repairs of the rigging.
4071
4072Sunday, Sept. 4th.
4073
4074
4075
4076Wind W. D[itt]o Weather. The people necessarily employed.
4077
4078Monday, Sept. 5th.
4079
4080
4081
4082Wind Variable. The weather still continuing pleasant, filled two pinnace loads of water. Preparing for sea.
4083
4084Tuesday, Sept. 6th.
4085
4086
4087
4088Wind WSW. Moderate breezes and pleasant. At 10 AM weighed and came to sail beating down for the roads. At noon the tide running we anchored in the [roads] in 12 f[atho]m water, over a bottom of clay with the small bower. Latter part foggy.
4089
4090Wednesday, Sept. 7th.
4091
4092
4093
4094Wind SW. Moderate breeze and foggy. At ½ past 8 weighed and beat into the roads with an ebb tide. At 1 PM anchored in 4 f[atho]m water, Observatory Island bearing S by E the entrance of the roads SSW. Saw a sail in the offing. Left riding in this port the brig Lady Washington. Latter part rainy, down t[op]g[al]lant yards.
4095
4096Thursday, Sept. 8th.
4097
4098
4099
4100Wind W. Light breezes and foggy. At 7 AM sent up the topgallant yards. At 9 weighed and stood out to sea, bound to the [11] southward. At noon the entrance of Clioquot bore NW 6 leagues. At 4 saw a ship 656 in the SW quarter.
4101
4102Friday, Sept. 9th.
4103
4104
4105
4106Wind NE. The winds light and variable. At 8 Companeys bay bore North distance 3 leagues. At noon Cape Flattery bore East, and the northwardmost land NW. Observed in Lat. 48°42' N and Long. [ ]. At 3 PM Cape Flattery bore ENE distance 8 leagues. Latter part squally.
4107
4108Saturday, Sept. 10th.
4109
4110
4111
4112Wind ENE. Still squally. Single reefed the topsails and at 5 tacked ship to the southward. The weather became so hazey that we could see scarcely 4 miles. The weather was not damp, but appeared like an intensely thick smoke.
4113
4114We beat up to the village Chandee 657 and a great number of natives came off with skins. We shortened sail and stood to and fro
4115
4116-- 301 --
4117off Tatooches Island. The breeze was now fresh and Capt. Gray concluded to lay under the lee of the land thus nigh all night. I endeavored to dissuade him from it, and advised him to take a better offing for the night in case the wind should come on shore or even fall calm, for there is no anchorage, and an excessively strong tide, with a dangerous reef not far distant. Wind NE. In preference to this advice he took his own resolution and the latter part continued exceedingly thick and hazy.
4118
4119Sunday, Sept. 11th.
4120
4121
4122
4123Wind Calm. About ½ past 12 at night the weather cleared and we saw Tatooches Island bearing NNE distance 3 miles. It was calm, and in less than an hour, so strong did the tide set, we were within ¼ of a mile of a most dangerous reef. 658 Thus critically situated we hoisted out [12] our boats and sent them ahead to tow, and assisted by a very light breeze from the southward we narrowly escaped our impending fate. It soon came on foggy and we had gained but 5 or 6 miles distance from the reef when Capt. Gray ordered her to stand in shore again. It was so nigh a calm that though all sail was set, she went but about a knot, and so foggy that we could not see twice the ship's length. The wind was W by S and we steered East. At 3 PM the officer of the watch brought expected tidings to me that the sound of breakers was not far distant. Capt. Gray was at this time asleep and I ordered him to haul the wind to the southward, as we lay most off on that tack.
4124
4125In a few moments we saw the rocks not ½ pistol shot from our lee bow. Immediately hove the ship in stays and with the boat ahead got her round on the other tack. At this time we had no soundings with a long scope of line. Hove out the pinnace and sent her ahead. At 5 hoisted in the boats and took in the light sails. At 8 PM dark and foggy we could distinctly hear the surf on the north side of the straits. 659 Sounded in 25 f[atho]m water. Tacked and stood off till midnight when we again tacked to the northward.
4126
4127Monday, Sept. 12th.
4128
4129
4130
4131Wind WNW. Moderate breeze and foggy.
4132
4133-- 302 --
4134All these 24 hours keeping nigh the north side of the straits, making short tacks, never stretching nearer than 25 f[atho]m water, and at the clearest time we could not see a quarter of a mile. [13]
4135
4136Tuesday, Sept. 13th.
4137
4138
4139
4140Wind WNW. Still foggy, disagreeable weather, and no sight of the land, though constantly within hearing of the surf.
4141
4142Wednesday, Sept. 14th.
4143
4144
4145
4146Wind WNW. The fog continues and we had neither seen land, sun, moon, or stars to ascertain the ship's situation for several days, and constantly encountering rapid currents.
4147
4148Thursday, Sept. 15th.
4149
4150
4151
4152Wind WNW. It became more clear, and at 4 AM saw Cape Flattery bearing NNE with a light breeze we stood towards it. At 9 having a strong tide against us we anchored in 25 f[atho]m water. Tatooches Isle bearing north 1 league distant. At ¼ past 1 weighed the anchor and stood into the straits of Juan de fuca. At ¼ past 3 hove to, maintopsail to the mast, breeze light, and pleasant weather.
4153
4154Friday, Sept. 16th.
4155
4156
4157
4158Wind E. First part pleasant. At 10 Tatooches Island bore SE distance 6 miles. Made sail to the westward.
4159
4160It was Capt. Gray's intention to go into winter quarters as soon as possible and for this purpose as a proper place had pitched on Naspatee in Bulfinches Sound. 660 We hastened towards that place, but the wind did not long favor us, when it came directly on shore (SSW) and it was with very considerable difficulty we kept off the shore.
4161
4162Saturday, Sept. 17th.
4163
4164
4165
4166Wind ESE. The wind soon came again to the eastward, and we pursued our course though Capt. Gray had resolved on going into Nootka Sound if the wind would [14] allow. At 8 in the evening, we saw the round hill of Clioquot bearing NE. 661 The wind was fresh at SW and looked likely to haul along shore in that direction.
4167
4168Sunday, Sept. 18th.
4169
4170
4171
4172Wind WNW. The wind heading us so that we gained in with the land too fast and could not weather point breakers, at 2 we tacked to the southward and at daylight wore and
4173
4174-- 303 --
4175stood for Clioquot with all sail out. At noon the entrance of the harbor bore East distance 4 miles. At 1 PM anchored in the roads with a very fresh breeze with the small bower, but dragging this we let go the best bower and brought her up. Sent down the topgallant yards. I manned and armed the pinnace and went to see if Capt. Kendrick still remained in the harbor. I was accompanied by Mr. Hoskins. We found him nearly ready for sea, but not much more so than when we left him. 662 We spent the evening in conversation, himself and officers congratulating us on our return.
4176
4177Monday, Sept. 19th.
4178
4179
4180
4181Wind WNW. Light breeze. At ½ past 12 weighed and towed into a better anchorage, where we waited until daylight when we weighed and stood into the harbor. It now struck me that if we spent so much time as would be required to go to Nootka or Bulfinches sound, considering the wind had now set in to the westward, exactly contrary, it might be late before we began to [15] build our sloop and consequently bad weather would accompany the undertaking.
4182
4183These ideas I communicated to Capt. Gray and he concurred with me in the opinion that it would be the best place we could winter, if proper wood could be found to saw into plank.
4184
4185In search of this and a commodious cove to winter (of which there were plenty) we went, and returned fully satisfied with our discovery. On our return we found Capt. Kendrick under way for the harbor in which we lay, having abandoned Fort Washington.
4186
4187We joined our boat to assist in towing down, and in a little time she anchored within a cable's length of us in the middle harbor. 663 Latter part pleasant.
4188
4189Tuesday, Sept. 20th.
4190
4191
4192
4193Wind WNW. With a light breeze and pleasant weather, at 10 weighed, and with the boats ahead, assisted by Capt. Kendrick's towed up to our winter quarters, a cove about 3 miles from Opitseta, 664 and moored with the sheet anchor to the NW in the mouth of the cove, the small bower cable clinched to a
4194
4195-- 304 --
4196tree on the harbor island from our larboard quarter and a hawser from the starboard quarter to a tree nigh the watering place. Latter part pleasant weather. [16]
4197
4198Wednesday, Sept. 21st.
4199
4200
4201
4202Wind WNW. In the morning I landed with a party and struck the first blow towards building a log house and clearing a place for the vessel, for it was as compact a thicket as ever grew, few of the trees were less than two fathoms round and many of them four.
4203
4204This made our work heavy but all our people showed themselves alert to accomplish the undertaking. This work continued without intermission until the Twenty-seventh, when it drew nigh a conclusion.
4205
4206This day sailed the Lady Washington J. Kendrick Esq. commander, for China. 665
4207
4208Thursday, Sept. 29th.
4209
4210
4211
4212A party of the people during this time had been employed getting the ship as snug as possible. Sails were unbent, topgallant and topsail yards were unrigged and stowed below. All the spare spars and lumber was landed, and we began to land the frame of our sloop.
4213
4214Friday, Sept. 30th.
4215
4216
4217
4218Wind Variable. On the 30th she was delivered of her twelve months burden and Columbia's young adventure emigrated into its scences of discovery. [17]
4219
4220Sunday, Oct. 2d.
4221
4222
4223
4224Wind Variable. The Sabbath we restrained from labor. The weather was pleasant and a party of sportsmen were out shooting.
4225
4226Monday, Oct. 3d.
4227
4228
4229
4230Wind Calm. Monday the 3d we laid the keel of the sloop Adventure, every person busily employed. Mr. Smith in the pinnace after logs for plank.
4231
4232Wednesday, Oct. 5th.
4233
4234
4235
4236Wind S by E. The weather moderate and foggy. All hands diligently employed. Finished stripping the ship. A party with the pinnance out cutting plank for the Adventure's decks.
4237
4238Friday, Oct. 7th.
4239
4240
4241
4242Wind Calm. Nothing remarkable occurred till the 7th, the carpenters, sawyers, smiths, etc. working diligently, when in the evening about 11 o'clock, it being foggy as ever, I was
4243
4244-- 305 --
4245suddenly awakened by the report of a musket, and the cry that the Cove was full of Indian canoes. With this alarming news I sprang out of bed (for I now dwelt on shore) armed myself and my small party consisting of 7 persons, and marched down the beach, resolving to oppose their landing, and if we were disappointed in this we could easily retreat to our port 666 which was well prepared for fighting at close quarters. But wonderful to tell these mighty war equipped savages, turned out to be none other than some rocks, which the tide ebbing low, had left dry. These seen through the fog might easily, by the [18] apprehension of the watch, be conjectured to be canoes. I did not chide the sentinel for a false alarm, for it were better to be alarmed when no danger is nigh than once to let it overtake us unprepared. 667
4246
4247Our work still jogging on in a steady regular course, the two whip-saws kept constantly at work sawing plank, for it was our misfortune to find those of oak we had brought from Boston most badly damaged and so rotten as to render them quite unserviceable.
4248
4249Wednesday, Oct. 12th.
4250
4251
4252
4253On the 12th I was visited by Wickananish and one or two of his brothers. They gazed with much admiration at our house and vessel and expressed much wonder. 668
4254
4255Indeed we are so forward with our work that I could wish Capt. Kendrick had stayed till this time and seen our situation for he told his officers during our cruise to the southward, that he did not suppose it would ever be put in execution as he did not think there was a person on board us capable of conducting the business of building the sloop. Now he would see us with a comfortable dwelling house containing our smith's forge and shop convenient for his work, carpenter's shop with benches etc. and several good lodging rooms and cabins, the [19] whole well armed, two cannon mounted outside and one inside of the house through a port, and in every direction loopholes for our small arms and pistols, of which we have a tolerable plenty, and our party is augmented to ten in all. He would find the sloop's frame completely set up and the carpenters begun to
4256
4257-- 306 --
4258plank her bottom. This I am confident we have executed as quick and perhaps as well as he himself would have done. I am daily visited by some one or other of the Chiefs, who express great admiration at our artisans. The sawing of plank, the smith work, and the dexterity with which our people cut down and hew trees strikes them with wonder. They almost always when they come sell a few skins, and generally bring a few wild geese and ducks for sale. The fowl indeed now are so plenty that our sportsmen seldom return without 20 or 30 ducks and geese.
4259
4260Thursday, Oct. 20th.
4261
4262
4263
4264From this time until the 20th it was hazy, disagreeable weather, but all our artisans were constantly employed in their various departments and got briskly forward with their business. But it now became so intolerably rainy that we were compelled to desist and work in the house. The carpenters were now employed preparing the trunnels 669 for driving, and the sawyers that no time might be lost were employed cleaning small arms.
4265
4266Friday, Oct. 21st.
4267
4268
4269
4270On the 21st the weather was tolerably good and all resumed their out door work. Our chimney had [20] been but indifferently built and I was fearful if the cannon should be fired in the house it would fall and perhaps bring with it the blacksmith's chimney. To prevent this disaster I ordered it hauled down to be rebuilt. A lime kiln for this purpose was burnt and the next day it was begun. The weather this day was rainy and disagreeable and necessitated our carpenters to take shelter.
4271
4272Sunday, Oct. 23d.
4273
4274
4275
4276The 23d it blew a heavy gale with smart claps of thunder, and heavy rain.
4277
4278This day Capt. Gray and Mr. Boit went on a shooting excursion. Capt. Gray landed at a place where the geese frequently light and Mr. Boit landed on the opposite side of the sound at a considerable distance, and sent the boat to another place.
4279
4280Thus situated they watched the approach of game when Mr. Boit was surprised to see three canoes, with four men in each, each person equipped with a spear and the Chief with a musket. They landed close to Mr. Boit and three or four stout fellows came to him and attempted to take his cartridge box from him, and in snatching it broke the belt and it fell on the ground. He immediately clapped
4281
4282-- 307 --
4283his foot on it pointing his musket at the Chief in the canoe ordering him to make his people desist or he would immediately shoot him, on which they all jumped into their canoes and paddled off shouting. They went to the Jolly-boat [21] which was then returning and would have taken the great coats which were in her by force, but at length they said that if they would tell them wher Capt. Gray was they would immediately leave them. Mr. Boit told them he was at Opitseta, which was at a considerable distance from the place he was really at, and two of the canoes paddled off for Opitseta with great haste. 670
4284
4285They then crossed the sound and took the Captain in and were returning on board when the same Chief (Tatooch 671 of Ahowset) came alongside of our boat and sold two geese with the greatest unconcern, though their behavior was suspicious. I think their intentions were only to rob, seeing the number small and somewhat intimidated, but fearing their intentions might be worse it put us much more on our guard.
4286
4287Of the remainder of this month there were but two days that our builders could work out of doors, the rest of the time being intolerably rainy and disagreeable weather.
4288
4289Tuesday, Nov. 1st.
4290
4291
4292
4293November was ushered in with tolerably good weather and considering the season remarkably temperate, our work going on briskly. That no time should be lost when bad weather returned, a house was erected, thatched with the boughs of trees in which we could build a boat.
4294
4295Friday, Nov. 4th.
4296
4297
4298
4299On the 4th and 5th Mr. Smith with a party cut several logs for plank. We had daily parties out shooting and were tolerably successful. On the 6th I went and cut a quantity of timber to build a boat and several more knees for the sloop.
4300
4301The weather was favorable to our work but few hours on a stretch for several days. Indeed the days have now become so short, scarcely exceeding 8 hours, of [22] which the sun is obscured from us by the highth of the trees 7, that our work hangs heavily. Indeed in the
4302
4303-- 308 --
4304very rainy times, the carpenters, who without urging are naturally diligent, are employed in the house building a boat, the armorers repairing arms, the joiners planing the beams and carlings.
4305
4306Monday, Nov. 14th.
4307
4308
4309
4310On the 14th she was completely planked up to the waist, and on the following day the top timbers were erected and I despatched the pinnace under the command of Mr. Waters 672 for boat timber and knees.
4311
4312Wednesday, Nov. 16th.
4313
4314
4315
4316On the morning of the 16th it blew exceedingly fresh with rain, and about 4 we discovered the ship was dragging her anchor. 673 I caused her to be hailed and by 9 o'clock it became more moderate, we hove up the anchor and remoored.
4317
4318Thursday, Nov. 24th.
4319
4320
4321
4322The 24th was very unpleasant weather. (23 years of age) On the 25 and 26th I had parties out cutting logs for plank.
4323
4324Sunday, Nov. 27th.
4325
4326
4327
4328On Sunday all hands at rest from their labors. Performed divine service.
4329
4330The remainder of the weather was variable and the people constantly employed, and when the weather was favorable Mr. Boit had the command of a party wooding. This we landed on a point of the Cove where it was cut and split fit for use. We were very frequently visited by the natives.
4331
4332The days are now so very short and the weather so very bad that our work moves forward but slowly. So low has the sun descended that it peeps not even through [23] the trees at us though it has not reached its southern bounds. Many of our people about this time were confined with severe colds and rheumatic pains, occasioned by the cold, wet weather, and I myself attacked with gout in my breast, and necessitated to remove on board where it [is] less damp and cold.
4333
4334Saturday, Dec. 10th.
4335
4336
4337
4338About the 10th the natives moved from their winter village to Opitsetah. 674
4339
4340-- 309 --
4341Parties were frequently out shooting game and generally visited the village where they met with very civil treatment.
4342
43431792, Jan.
4344
4345
4346
4347Our carpenters diligently exerted themselves even [in] the worst weather to forward the work in their department, and at the end of the month we laid the sloop's beams, but the weather was so bad that it was the latter end of January before we began to lay the deck. It was indeed mortifying to find we had little more than ½ enough knees for the deck, and no more oak plank than would plank her bottom.
4348
4349Friday, Jan. 27th.
4350
4351
4352
4353Indeed we had not enough materials to make her an open boat. However, we were in a country where there is plenty, though indifferent timber, 675 and we found plenty of good pitch pine knees.
4354
4355Feb.
4356
4357
4358
4359It was Capt. Gray's intention to haul to a very convenient place in the north part of the cove where the ship could lay and discharge on the bank, afloat at all times of tide. On the 2d in the morning they [24] began the operation of preparing to lay the ship on the ground. The constant rains retarded the business very much.
4360
4361Thursday, Feb. 2d.
4362
4363
4364
4365We were now visited very much by the native Chiefs and their wives with a strict cordiality of manner and confidence, unusual before. The women would visit me at the house with an air of the greatest freedom and sociability, and the Chiefs almost every day visited us (I allowed none of the lower class to land) and seemed to admire our progress, and were inquisitive to know when we should launch. 676 Their manner was such that we imagined we had attracted their sincere regard. All the winter they had stayed on board as long as they chose and partook at our table of such as we ate and drank. Capt. Gray had even allowed an inferior who was very ill, to tarry with his father and servant, on board many nights for the recovery of his health, although he was a very disagreeable companion; and before this event and afterwards for a considerable time had visited the sick three or four times a week at the village,
4366
4367-- 310 --
4368supplying them with drugs, rice bread molasses etc. so much had he labored to gain their esteem. 677
4369
4370Friday, Feb. 17th.
4371
4372
4373
4374The weather was so exceedingly bad that it was not before the 17th that we could [25] grave one side, when the weather became so rainy we were necessitated to haul the ship into her former berth and wait for more favorable weather.
4375
4376Saturday, Feb. 18th.
4377
4378
4379
4380On 18th though it looked unfavorable in the morning became tolerably pleasant and we were visited as usual by several Chiefs.
4381
4382At dusk I came on board to supper and found Tototeescosettle. His brother Totoocheatecose had not long left the ship. Tototeescosettle had been detected this afternoon with a jacket he had stolen from the boatswain, but Capt. Gray's lenity was such that he would not have the thief punished, and only took the jacket from him. The fellow had gone but a little time before Ottoo our Sandwich Island lad informed Capt. Gray of a plot that was laid by the natives to capture the ship.
4383
4384He told him Totoocheatecose had promised to make him a great Chief if he would wet our fire arms, and a sea-otter skin for each musket ball he would give him, telling him he meant to come through the woods and board the ship from the bank, and kill every person on board except him, and he must come to him as soon as the affray commenced.
4385
4386Ottoo asked him when he would come. He at first said that night, but afterwards said the other tribes that were confederate with him were not ready and it would be two or [26] three days first. It was not till supper that I knew anything of the matter, when Capt. Gray ordered the swivels to be loaded, then informed me of the plot. We were now situated alongside of a bank, which is as commodious as a wharf for the natives to board us from. Our people had no arms or ammunition. All our great guns were landed on the bank. As we were thus situated I advised Capt. Gray, it being the top of high water, to haul on the ground that tide and grave by night, giving for my reasons, being away from the bank and aground would
4387
4388-- 311 --
4389render it less practicable to board us, while we could on shore and on board give mutual protection to each other in case they should make an attempt, the ship laying within pistol shot of the fort, and by this nightly operation facilitate our business. Consequently we should be able to take everything off from the bank on the morrow, and by being off the next night to our anchors prevent an evil that had like to have been fatal to us. Capt. Gray was of my opinion, and the ship was immediately removed.
4390
4391I went on shore and put the fort in a good posture of defence. I discharged and reloaded the cannon, and put the small arms in as good order as possible, and on [27] board they were employed preparing their arms for a smart engagement.
4392
4393As Capt. Gray had remained on board, I took the command of the party to grave the ship. The tide had ebbed so that our people by being up to waist in water, scraped to the bottom of the keel, when Mr. Smith told us the natives were coming and close to us. I ordered Mr. Boit with all the ship's people immediately on board and with my party went to join the small detachment we had left in the house to guard it, but I was much surprised to find Mr. Boit with several of the ship's people had come up to the house. These I immediately ordered on board not wishing to leave the ship void of defence, and taking 3 people with me guarded them down. I returned and waited the attack with everything prepared to give them a warm reception. I heard them also hoop. One party seemed nigh the bank and the other near the small entrance of the harbor, perhaps to have attacked the fort. No doubt when they found the ship was removed they hooped to inform the other party that their scheme was abortive. Thus having their plans frustrated they retired without planning any new mode of attack. 678
4394
4395Sunday, Feb. 19th.
4396
4397
4398
4399The day now broke and the tide had rose but little. We [graved] the principal part of the bottom, the other having been well scraped. The tide rose early to float her [28] and they hauled to the bank, and in the course of the day everything except a few things of small value were taken off and the ship hauled to her berth in the harbor and moored head and stern. All day the carpenters were employed preparing to launch the sloop and in the
4400
4401-- 312 --
4402afternoon all the tradesmen's tools and things of value were removed on board the ship and we abandoned the fort, that our parties being united might be in greater safety. Dividing our people into four watches Mr. Smith, Mr. Waters, Mr. Boit and myself took charge of them. In the course of the day two canoes came alongside of the ship. In one of them was one of the Chief's wives and several other women.
4403
4404Monday, Feb. 20th.
4405
4406
4407
4408In the course of the night we suspected we could hear people walking on the beach and among the trees. At daylight on the 20th I caused 4 cannon loaded with canister shot to be fired among the trees near the sloop, and then I landed with a strongly armed party to prepare for launching, and having placed a guard in our rear to prevent an ambuscade, our business went on with great alacrity. About 11 o'clock Toteescosettle a most notorious villian in the plot and who had intended to have murdered us the other night, came [29] alongside with his father to sell his skins asking the gentlemen if they would not come down to the village or go shooting, perhaps imagining we did not hear them shout, or knew nothing about the matter.
4409
4410However, Capt. Gray took the skins from him 679 and ordered him immediately to leave the ship. He was also told that if his father had not been with him he would have been instantly shot. He immediately paddled off with an aspect deeply tinged with terror.
4411
4412Capt. Gray did not think it advisable to make him a prisoner, until some future opportunity when the sloop should be off the stocks. The natives of this place and the villages nigh had by barter become possessed of more than two hundred stands of arms, and a large quantity of ammunition, 680 and were now become skilled in the use of them. This they supposed was a force so much superior to ours, that in our late condition might insure them success, and inviting the adjacent tribes to partake of the glory of vanquishing, and profit of sharing the spoils, they embarked, it is reasonable to suppose, with not less than Two thousand fighting men, and had not
4413
4414-- 313 --
4415Tatoocheatecose imparted the secret to Ottoo, in all probability they would have been successful. [30]
4416
4417They had a long story to hide their intentions, that they were going to attack a village called Highshakt and had purchased many muskets and some ammunition for that purpose, and even been very anxious that I should allow the smiths to make daggers to kill the Highshakt people with. This name possibly applied to us, or was fictitious, 681 to delude us. They even told me when one of the Chiefs saw a number of the sloop's blocks hanging in the house, that they should have the Highshakt people's heads hanging in their houses in the same manner in a little while.
4418
4419An instance was scarce ever known among the most fierce and savage nations, of so much treachery and baseness, after such humane and hospitable treatment. Even they showed no small share of hospitality and civilization, for our parties were frequently so detached as to lay much in their power, and several of our gentlemen, particularly Mr. Hoskins, were at the village daily, and were never treated uncivally. They wished not the lives and clothing of two or three persons, but rather wished to treat them with a seeming cordiality, until at some unguarded moment they might [31] make the whole a prey to their perfidy.
4420
4421Tuesday, Feb. 21st.
4422
4423
4424
4425Our full employ now was to launch the sloop with expedition, and this it is probable we should have accomplished, had not the ways, which were blocked with very buoyant wood, floated, but when the tide fell I fully prevented a future accident of the same nature. Wednesday, Feb. 22d. At high water on the 22d, being perfectly ready, we began to launch. She ran about 30 feet and stopped, for the launching plank being green pine, furroughed up before the bilge ways. We were under the mortifying necessity of blocking and shoring the vessel again, to make as good arrangement as possible for another day's launch.
4426
4427Thursday, Feb. 23d.
4428
4429
4430
4431The morning of the 23d was exceedingly pleasant. I landed as usual with a strongly armed party and at high
4432
4433-- 314 --
4434water about 3 o'clock successfully launched the sloop Adventure. 682
4435
4436We did not affect this without considerable trouble, being hove off with a hawser from the ship. We hauled alongside of the Columbia and moored with an anchor to the NW and a spring to the SW Cable and the breast fasts to the ship. Thus situated our tradesmen proceeded to finish the sloop with alacrity. Parties were now employed tearing down the house and removing everything that could be of utility to the natives, on board. On the 26th it came on [32] a spell of rainy weather with heavy gusts of wind and hail which continued till the 8th of March without intermission.
4437
4438Thursday, Mar. 8th.
4439
4440
4441
4442This totally prevented the progress of our carpenters, smiths, etc. On the return of good weather, work again was pursued cheerfully. She was plank sheared and the bulwarks erected. We found the sloop had some small leak in her, and it being necessary to haul her on shore to rip off the launching cleats we were lucky enough to find and stop it.
4443
4444Wednesday, Mar. 14th.
4445
4446
4447
4448On the 14th we took on board a boat load of ballest and a number of bricks, and stepped her mast, but finding it too tall I had it shortened four feet and again stepped.
4449
4450Sunday, Mar. 18th.
4451
4452
4453
4454On the 18th we took on board the bread, beef, pork, flour, rice, peas, and beans, had her sides painted and bends blacked.
4455
4456On the 19th we completed wooding and watering.
4457
4458Wednesday, Mar. 21st.
4459
4460
4461
4462On the 21st Benj. Harding, boatswain of the Columbia, departed this life, aged 31 years, after lingering a long time, of dysentery, and on the following day he was buried. 683 The weather was again very disagreeable, carpenter's mate and joiner on the sick list. This is a mortifying circumstance as much in their line is still [33] to be done. Sunday, Mar. 25th. On the 25th we weighed and swept out into the middle of the sound, but finding the Columbia met with difficulty in weighing her anchor I came to and sent my boat to their assistance. 684 They soon after weighed, but a strong current setting up they could not fetch near so far as we
4463
4464-- 315 --
4465lay. When they came to we hove up and dropped within 20 yards of them, and lay at single anchor all night. Calm and foggy.
4466
4467Monday, Mar. 26th.
4468
4469
4470
4471On the 26th at ½ past 5 we bent a mainsail and jib, weighed in company with the Columbia, and stood down for the lower harbor but the ship being driven too nigh a ledge of rocks, came to, I came to also. They warped into channel way and again came to sail.
4472
4473We stood about ½ a mile farther, when the tide met us and we came to with the best bower in 7 f[atho]m water, the swash way bearing SSW ¼ of a mile distant, and Opitsetah NW distance ½ a mile. Carpenters constantly employed on the sloop.
4474
4475At 5 the ship moored. We dropped within 20 f[atho]m of her and moored with the best bower to the eastward ½ a cable, and the small bower and two thirds of a cable to the westward. In the course of the day a number of canoes came alongside with crabs for sale, but no Chiefs made their appearance. They had deserted Opitsetah [34] and lived in a number of small scattered groups at many different places. The wind, all night, blew a gale in almost every point of the compass. The gale was accompanied with hail and sleet.
4476
4477Mar. 27th.
4478
4479
4480
4481Tuesday, we had heavy gales from the westward with hail and rain. Carpenter planking up the stern. Seamen on the rigging. Carpenter's mate and joiner sick.
4482
4483The 28th and 29th we had heavy gales with rain continually. The weather appears more rigorous now than it has done this winter, and much retards the progress of our carpenter.
4484
4485Friday, Mar. 30th.
4486
4487
4488
4489Wind Variable. The 30th I had a spar for a topmast cut. The 31st was boisterous.
4490
4491Sunday, Apr. 1st.
4492
4493
4494
4495April 1st I received the principal part of my cargo and stores, and was busily employed preparing for sea.
4496
4497Monday, Apr. 2d.
4498
4499
4500
4501Wind Westerly. Early in the morning of the 2d I received my sailing orders and weighed in company with the Columbia, and by 10 o'clock was safe out of the harbor. 685 Wind W by N.
4502
4503There was a large sea going and we had the satisfaction to find
4504
4505-- 316 --
4506our vessel a very good seaboat, and outsailed the Columbia. My orders were to proceed to the northward, but the [35] wind being directly in my teeth, Capt. Gray concurred with me in the opinion that it would be best to proceed to Cechaht Cove Company's Bay, 686 there put my vessel in complete order for sea, and then the first fair wind proceed north. I dined with Capt. Gray and on my return on board made sail with a fresh breeze at WNW in hopes to arrive at anchor before night. In this, however, I was mistaken for the tide being exceedingly strong against me and the wind strong from the place our anchoring ground bore, we beat until sunset without gaining a mile, but being favored by a clear moonlight night, I was encouraged to persevere, and as soon as the tide slackened, we went briskly to windward and at 9 PM anchored in Cechaht Cove in 17 f[atho]m water, over a bottom of mud and clay. The wind was from the westward all night and squally.
4507
4508Tuesday, Apr. 3d.
4509
4510
4511
4512Wind WNW. In the morning the wind was light inclining to calm. We had a number of the natives off, but purchased no skins. There were but two brought off and those not worth the price required.
4513
4514I kept the carpenters and seamen fully employed in the equipment of the vessel. The latter part of the day was attended with strong westwardly gales. Moored with [36] the small bower to the ESE.
4515
4516Wednesday, Apr. 4th.
4517
4518
4519
4520Wind WNW. Strong gales and clear. Carpenters and seamen employed preparing the vessel for sea. Many of the natives off, but nothing was purchased of them except a little oil.
4521
4522Thursday, Apr. 5th.
4523
4524
4525
4526Wind WNW. Strong gales and squally with hail and rain. Cut and altered the foresail to make it fit. Carpenters employed fixing the ports. I find the cold more severe than I have felt it all winter.
4527
4528Friday, Apr. 6th.
4529
4530
4531
4532Wind WNW. Moderate breezes and clear, pleasant weather. Many of the natives were off but only 3 skins were purchased. This leads me to think they are possessed of but few. Carpenters employed hanging the ports. Seamen on the rigging
4533
4534-- 317 --
4535and altering the jib. Painters painting the bulwarks etc. Early in the morning the wind was light to the southward. Seamen and others employed in preparing for sea. Several natives alongside who traded with me on a very friendly footing, for a few sea-otter skins. A Highua Chief of Hichaht 687 was alongside all the morning. [37]
4536
4537Saturday, Apr. 7th.
4538
4539
4540
4541Wind NNE. Being tolerably well prepared for sea, at 10 AM we weighed and came to sail, with a very light flattering breeze, but we were soon fortunate enough to be overtaken with a fine breeze at NNE. At 2 we bore away to the southward of the reefs and stood to the westward. At 4 Companey's [Bay] bore E by N 5 leagues distant, and at 8 PM Clioquot bore NNE 8 leagues. 688 I steered a W by N course all night as in all probability the wind would be westwardly on the morrow. Towards midnight the wind grew moderate. Moderate breezes and pleasant weather.
4542
4543Sunday, Apr. 8th.
4544
4545
4546
4547Wind NNW. At 6 the entrance of Nootka Sound bore NNW distance 8 leagues, and Point Breakers 689 North 10 leagues. At noon the wind came in westwardly and we stretched in shore within three leagues of Breaker's Point, when we hove about and stood to the southward. Reefed mainsail.
4548
4549Monday, Apr. 9th.
4550
4551
4552
4553Wind WNW. Strong breezes and clear pleasant weather. Plying to windward in Hope Bay. At noon I was in Latitude 49° 5' N and in Longitude 127°24' W. Nootka Sound bearing NNE 12 leagues distant. In the evening we came under snug sail and stood to and fro. [38]
4554
4555Tuesday, Apr. 10th.
4556
4557
4558
4559Wind WNW. On the morning of the 10th the wind was more moderate. Made all sail and stood in for the land. At noon Nootka Sound bore NE by N 10 leagues, and Ahatsett 690 NW by N 9 leagues. My Latitude at noon was 49°24' N. I stood within 3 leagues of the land and hove about with the wind at WNW and stood off shore. Clear weather. At 6 PM the southwardmost land
4560
4561-- 318 --
4562in sight bore E by S and the northwardmost NW. The night was hazy and calm.
4563
4564Wednesday, Apr. 11th.
4565
4566
4567
4568Wind ESE. All the first part calm. At 11 AM a light breeze at ESE sprang up and we made all sail. At noon Nootka Sound bore NE 7 leagues distant. I observed in Latitude 49° 14' N. All the latter part calm, but it has much the appearance of an eastwardly wind.
4569
4570Thursday, Apr. 12th.
4571
4572
4573
4574Wind ESE. At 4 AM the 12th a breeze sprung up to the eastward. We made all sail with the breeze gradually strengthening. At noon Nootka Sound bore E by N distance 11 leagues. Towards the latter part the wind grew light and as the swell hove on shore I kept her W by N all night. [39]
4575
4576Friday, Apr. 13th.
4577
4578
4579
4580Wind ESE. In the morning of the 13th with a moderate breeze from ESE we stood in for the land. At 8 AM Split Rock bore ENE 1 league distant. I stood up into the bay to NE of Woody Point and then coasted along the shore. As it bended it made several deep bays in which there seemed to be no harbors. At noon I observed in Latitude 50° 16' N Woody Point bearing SE by E distance about 5 leagues.
4581
4582I hove to and let a small canoe come alongside. I purchased of them 24 large fish and again made sail.
4583
4584At 2 PM seeing several large canoes coming off I hove to. When they came alongside finding they had no skins I immediately made sail. They came from a large sound in which there are good harbors. I distinguished it by the appellation of Port Lincoln. 691
4585
4586I regretted not being able to examine this place, but my anxiety to get to Washington's Island forbid my losing so good a wind, especially as I knew it was Capt. Gray's intention to cruise this part of the coast on his return from the southward. Port Lincoln is in Latitude 50° 26' N and Longitude 128° 30' W.
4587
4588As soon as I left the canoes I steered a West course meaning to go to the westward [40] of the Islands off Cape Ingraham, but finding a strong current and a heavy swell setting to the North, I kept West by South going little more than 1 knot. Variation per Ampd.
4589
4590-- 319 --
459121° 10' East. At 7 the westwardmost land in sight bore WNW and the eastwardmost ESE.
4592
4593Saturday, Apr. 14th.
4594
4595
4596
4597Wind NW. NW by W. The 14th was exceedingly pleasant. I employed all the people in cleaning small arms. About 10 AM the wind came in to the westward. Tacked several times as the wind varied. At noon in Latitude 50° 46' North, the outwardmost Island 692 at 3 PM bore NE by E distance 6 leagues. The night was cloudy. Wind variable.
4598
4599Sunday, Apr. 15th.
4600
4601
4602
4603Wind N by W. The morning of the 15th was exceedingly foggy with the wind at N by W stretching WNW. At noon I was in Latitude 50° 58' N and Longitude 132° 32' W the rocks off Cape Haswell 693 bearing No. 19° W distance 53 miles. The weather continuing thick and foggy I stood WNW all night, many whales playing about the ship.
4604
4605Monday, Apr. 16th.
4606
4607
4608
4609Wind N by W. In the morning it was clear, and pleasant. At 8 AM the wind heading us off to West, I hove about and stood in NE. At noon I observed in Latitude 51° 1' N. The wind stood at N by W till 7 PM when a lively breeze at ESE sprung up. My Latitude at this time [41] was 51° 2' N, and my Longitude 131° 9' W. Cape Haswell bearing N 7° E distance 53 miles. Variation per Ampd. 22° 5' E. As it was my intention to go to the northward on the west side of the island 694 I came under snug sail and steered NW all night.
4610
4611Tuesday, Apr. 17th.
4612
4613
4614
4615Wind ESE. At ½ past 4 the 17th we made sail and stood in North, and at ½ past 7 saw the South end of Washington's Islands bearing NNE 4 leagues, and the southward-most hummock 695 off the Cape bore NE 5 leagues. We made all sail alongshore. At noon I observed in Latitude 52° 10' N Barrel's Sound bearing E by N distance 4 leagues.
4616
4617At this time a place that had the appearance of the entrance of a harbor bore NNE 3 leagues distant. This place is in Latitude
4618
4619-- 320 --
462052° 20' N. At 6 PM the southwardmost land in sight bore ESE and the northwardmost NW by W. The latter part light airs.
4621
4622Wednesday, Apr. 18th.
4623
4624
4625
4626Wind SSE. Moderate breezes and pleasant weather. Early in the morning we passed several places that had the appearance of harbors or deep sounds. At noon I observed the Latitude 53° 5' N my Longitude at this time being 132° 8' W. A little to the northward of this station we had a number come off, and with them a number of good skins. They were of the Tooscondolth tribe, 696 subject to Comsuah. The people were [42] very difficult to trade with and I purchased but few skins, being anxious while the Eastwardly wind lasts to arrive at the West end of the Island. Where this tribe dwells is the strait that divides Washington's Island nearly in the middle. 697
4627
4628The strait forms into a very spacious harbor, capable of containing a hundred sail of shipping, commodiously navigable from the West side through a gut not a quarter of a mile wide. Whether it is navigable from the east side for large vessels or not I am at present unacquainted. 698
4629
4630The distance across to where we formerly lay on the East side I calculated to be 20 miles. 699 The coast I sailed past all this day is very broken and must form many good harbors. The coast generally trended NW by W by compass; but in about 53° 20' the coast turned abruptly to the westward, for a considerable distance and left a large channel running to the NE that forms all the West end into a very large island. 700 It blew very hard and was thick weather, that prevented me from following it up, and being nearly night I made sail for the westward.
4631
4632Thursday, Apr. 19th.
4633
4634
4635
4636Wind East. In the morning of the 19th I found myself much farther off shore than I expected. I stood on to the northward [43] with a stiff gale which obliged me to reef several
4637
4638-- 321 --
4639times. In the evening we hove to with a ballanced mainsail with her head to the southward. The northwardmost land in sight bore N by W and the southwardmost ESE. Wind at East.
4640
4641The breeze was sometimes fresh and at others squally. Shook the reefs out and lay her to with the mainsail, and the jib sheet to windward. This evening we were nigh the SW entrance of Tadents Village and harbor. 701
4642
4643Friday, Apr. 20th.
4644
4645
4646
4647Wind W by N. On the 20th the wind being adverse to our going to the eastward I stretched to the northward intending to beat to windward on the north side, until I should find a harbor. We for a considerable time fancied we saw a boat.
4648
4649I was much concerned, fearing there was somebody on this part of the coast before us, but on nearer approach I found it was the trunk of a tree with several branches standing above water that bore the appearance of masts and sails. All the latter part was cloudy, disagreeable weather, with strong gales.
4650
4651Saturday, Apr. 21st.
4652
4653
4654
4655Wind W by N. At 4 AM on the morning of the 21st wore ship to the southward and made all sail. At 8 AM the bulk of Washington's Island bore SE by E distance 5 leagues. All hands variously employed on ship [44] duties. At 6 PM tacked ship to the northward. At 7 westwardmost part of Washington's Island in sight bore S by W, the eastwardmost ESE. At 10 PM tacked ship to the southward. Midnight calm and hazy.
4656
4657Sunday, Apr. 22d.
4658
4659
4660
4661Wind E by N. At 4 AM on the 22d a light breeze sprung up from the eastward and we stood in shore. Noon moderate and pleasant.
4662
4663At 3 several canoes came off from Tadents village. 702 They had many skins of which I purchased few, for they were so exorbitant in their price as to ask two great coats for one skin. This price, however, I was resolved not to give, being confident I could sell them better elsewhere. At 7 PM the westwardmost part of Washington's Island in sight bore W by S. Squally with rain.
4664
4665-- 322 --
4666Monday, Apr. 23d.
4667
4668
4669
4670Wind Eastwardly. Early in the morning I saw a place about 17 leagues to the eastward of Tadents where there was the appearance of a good harbor. 703 I stretched in under snug sail for it. It blew a gale and at 1 PM on coming to the entrance, which was scarce ¼ of a mile wide, I found myself in less than 2 f[atho]m. It being now high water I let go the anchor and hoisted the boat out, and sent Mr. Waters to sound the entrance of the harbor.
4671
4672It was perfectly smooth, the wind being [45] off shore. He found exceedingly shoal water all across, except in one narrow channel. Whether this runs through or not is uncertain, but I am apt to think it not navigable for anything larger than a boat.
4673
4674As the place where we now lay would be dry at low water, I shifted my berth into 5 f[atho]m hard bottom. At the first I intended to have rode the gale out in the place I lay, it being very well sheltered from the southwardly winds (E by S) and the banks being not more than a ¼ of a mile distant, but fearing the wind might chop in to the northward on a sudden, it would be difficult to beat out, and I was conscious as the ground was bad, she would not ride out a gale to the northward. The number of natives too was small and very poor.
4675
4676I weighed at 3 PM and stood out of the bay. This place is in Latitude 54° 9' N and Longitude 132° 45' W. The east [west?] cape of the Islands, Cape Coolidge, bore WSW 17 leagues, and is in Latitude 54° 15' N and Longitude 134° 13' W. 704 As soon as I was out of the bay I began to beat to windward for Hancock's River and before dark Cape Lookout bore ENE distance 18 leagues.
4677
4678All night it blew a perfect gale of wind and we beat to windward under the close reefed mainsail and foresail. [46]
4679
4680Tuesday, Apr. 24th.
4681
4682
4683
4684Wind E by S. In the morning of the 24th I had the satisfaction of seeing ourselves to windward of our port. It was very thick with squalls of hail and sleet.
4685
4686-- 323 --
4687Stood in for the harbor. The wind coming contrary we beat up under reefed sails, and ½ past 2 PM came to in 14 f[atho]m water, about ½ a mile distant from the east shore, the west chop bearing NW and the east chop north.
4688
4689Wind ENE. There were but few natives came off and they brought nothing for sale. The latter part moderate and pleasant.
4690
4691Wednesday, Apr. 25th.
4692
4693
4694
4695Wind South'dly. In the morning finding we had dragged our anchor in the night I weighed and came to farther up the stream. Many of the natives came off.
4696
4697I purchased of them some fish and a few otter tails. 705 They brought but two skins for sale and they asked two great coats for each.
4698
4699The natives of this port though we frequently had great throngs of them alongside, behaved themselves with great propriety. They would not indeed sell me their skins without an exorbitant price, telling me the Captains Douglass, Kendrick, Barnett, Ingraham, Crowel, and Keanna would be here soon, and they would give them what they had asked. 706 [47]
4700
4701Now there was nothing I had for cargo but great coats, that these people would take, and these they would give only one indifferent skin apiece for, and demanded 2 great coats for a large good skin.
4702
4703Thursday, Apr. 26th.
4704
4705
4706
4707Wind NNW. As there are many other places on the coast where it is equally likely to find plenty of skins, and a long season before us to find such places out, I rather chose to keep my goods and trust fortune for a better market for them.
4708
4709Friday, Apr. 27th.
4710
4711
4712
4713Wind WSW. The natives frequently tell us that one Jones, a person belonging to Captain Crowel's brig stayed among the natives of Tadents, and was now at Legonee. Whether this is a device of their own brain to amuse or the fact, I know not. 707
4714
4715-- 324 --
4716Saturday, Apr. 28th.
4717
4718
4719
4720Wind South. We had heavy gales and boisterous weather while at this port, so that the time spent here did not grieve me much, for had I been out I should have had a very disagreeable time.
4721
4722After doing some necessary jobs about the vessel, and leaving a letter for Capt. Gray with the Chief of the port, Cattar, 708 early in the morning of the 28th I weighed, intending to go to Comsuah's on the east side of the island. 709 The wind was moderate and the weather pleasant, and it looked much like a north wind. In this, however, [48] it disappointed us.
4723
4724I ran along the edge of the shoal 710 of Cape Lookout till ½ past 12 on the morning of the 29th. It blew a strong gale at SW by S. We struck soundings in 8 f[atho]m water on the shoal, when we hove to with her head to the southward.
4725
4726Sunday, Apr. 29th.
4727
4728
4729
4730Wind SE by E. At 3 AM we wore and soon saw the land ranging from NW to E by S about 2 leagues distant. We immediately wore and made sail to the southward with a steady lively breeze at SW, and were soon abreast of Sea Lion Rocks. 711
4731
4732At noon I observed in Latitude 54° 36' N. and my Longitude was 130° 55' W. The wind was moderate and we were close in with the land. We hove about and stood to the westward. At 7 PM Cape Lookout bore W by N.
4733
4734Tacked to the northward, being pretty nigh the island. The wind was moderate though it promised a heavy gale. About midnight it came on in exceedingly heavy gusts and by 4 AM the 30th it was a perfect hurricane. [49]
4735
4736I was fully acquainted with the real danger of my situation and thought it the best way I could do, to bear away through Addam's Strait, 712 going round Cape Lookout, for should it blow 24 hours,
4737
4738-- 325 --
4739and I lay to in these straits there is little doubt but I should fall a prey to some merciless reef or some perilous cleft of rocks.
4740
4741Monday, Apr. 30th.
4742
4743
4744
4745Wind SE. The weather was so amazingly thick with the tempest that at the clearest time we could not see ¼ of a mile. We bore away at 4 AM, when it was daylight, and stood west. At 6 we struck soundings in 17 f[atho]m. We hauled NW, gradually decreasing our water to 5 f[atho]m. I then hauled our wind to the ENE and deepened to 7 f[atho]m. Thus situated I could have wished to have seen the land a few moments, but it still grew thicker. I stretched off into 17 f[atho]m water and traced the shoal round in that depth till we arrived on the NW side, which was about 12 AM. The sea ran to a great highth and was amazingly agitated by the shoalness and irregularity of the bottom. Indeed I never saw so perfect a disorder in the waves, much hightened by the violent strength of the wind, which made the whole milk-white. This awful scene [50] was frequently strengthened by sharp flashes of lightning and showers of hail. It was necessary to run a many courses to find our way to sea where we might have good searoom. As we turned the NW part of the shoal, we hauled to the SSW and made sail. We soon found a very visible alteration in the movement of the waters. The sea fell and by 4 PM the weather was tolerably moderate. We stood in for Washington's Island under the ballanced mainsail and foresail, and before night saw the land about half way between Hancock's River and Cape Lookout, 713 and hove to in the night in from 8 to 20 f[atho]m water.
4746
4747Tuesday, May 1st.
4748
4749
4750
4751Wind ENE. At 1 AM Hancock's River bore SSW 3 leagues distant. I made all sail to the westward. About noon a canoe came off and brought with them some halibut, and soon after we were visited by a number of other natives with skins for sale.
4752
4753Cunnea the Chief of Tadents came off accompanied by his wife, (who is the superior officer). 714 They sold us many skins and were very anxious for us to go in to a anchor. This I determined to [51]
4754
4755-- 326 --
4756do, if in the morning the wind should be unfavorable to our going to the southward.
4757
4758Wednesday, May 2d.
4759
4760
4761
4762Wind ENE. They had such an abundance of skins that it would have been a good cargo to have purchased them all, but they asked such a price for them that it would have taken all the salable articles I had to have purchased 70 of them. 715 I had the breeze light and foggy all night. In the morning of the 2d I stood in for the land with the wind at ENE and a lively breeze. As the wind was fair I determined not to touch at Tadents, but make my way to some cheaper place. Early in the afternoon the wind died and we lay becalmed about a mile distant from the shore, and 2 leagues to the southward of Tadents. While we lay in this condition the Chief and her husband came off and sold me several good skins on the usual terms, and I promised to come to their village again before long. It continued calm till midnight. Thursday, May 3d. Wind NW by W. We had it foggy all the next day with the wind to the westward, blowing a light breeze. I had no observation and towards night the wind increased considerably. I reefed and came under snug sail, and lay to all night, expecting I should fall in [52] to windward of Tooscondolth, but on the morning of the 4th I was mortified to find ourselves to the southward of the port. 716
4763
4764Friday, May 4th.
4765
4766
4767
4768Wind NW by W. The weather having been so thick we could not see the land since leaving the west end, and perhaps a strong current, must plead my excuse. 717 Thus situated, knowing it would be impossible to beat to windward, in a little time I made sail to the southward in search of a good harbor, but found none that suited my mind and saw no natives.
4769
4770Late in the evening I saw a place that I supposed would be a good harbor, and as the wind was light I lay off it all night.
4771
4772Saturday, May 5th.
4773
4774
4775
4776Wind WNW. On the morning of the 5th I
4777
4778-- 327 --
4779stood in, but the wind was light so that it was afternoon before I entered the sound, a piece of great length and 60 f[atho]m of water. I began to beat to windward and about 4 PM anchored in 60 f[atho]m water, being the first bottom I had got, with the best bower, for it blew fresh in squalls, about 4 miles from the entrance of the sound and a mile from the narrows into the large harbor. I went in the boat, manned and armed, in search of a better place for the vessel to lay. I entered a cove nearly abreast of which we had [53] anchored, and found it exactly suited to our purpose, being a most commodious place to get wood and water. I then rowed up into the other harbor and found it not so well adapted to our purposes, but a most excellent place for a large fleet of shipping to ride. I returned and found the sloop had drifted a considerable distance. I immediately weighed and towed into St. Tammonies Cove, Port Montgomery. 718 We anchored in 12 f[atho]m water, mud bottom.
4780
4781Sunday, May 6th.
4782
4783
4784
4785Wind NW. Sunday the 6th all hands were employed in needful duties, cutting wood, filling water, re-stowing the hold. Carpenters finishing the stern, blacking the spars etc.
4786
4787Monday, May 7th.
4788
4789
4790
4791Wind NW. On the morning of the 7th, it was clear pleasant weather. We finished the stern and painted it, and at 8 AM weighed and run down the harbor with a lively breeze at NW. I think the discovery of this harbor a valuable acquisition for a vessel that had met with an accident and wished to repair, clear of the natives, for I believe this port is only visited casually by strangers from Coyah's tribe. 719
4792
4793This place affords great abundance of good yellow pine timber and spars, plenty of water, and good wood that is hard and desirable fuel. St. Tammonies Harbor is in Lat. 52° 25' N [54] and Longitude [ ] West. 720
4794
4795-- 328 --
4796I had been informed by some of Coyah's tribe that there was a ship laying at Barrel's Inlet, 721 and I had little reason to doubt them, as one of the natives had a jacket and trowsers they had purchased of them, on the buttons of which was printed, long live the President G. W.
4797
4798I had been resolved to touch at Gray's Cove 722 before, nor would I let this report retard me, for I was anxious to know who it was, and to get letters from home.
4799
4800I made sail for Barrels Inlet but the wind growing light it was two o'clock before we were abreast of the outer island the wind drew down the sound and we began to beat windward. At 3 PM we saw a boat coming towards us. Found her to be the boat belonging to the Margret of Boston, James Magee, Commander. Mr. Lamb, the chief officer, was in her.
4801
4802They sailed from Boston the 25th of October 1791 and arrived on this coast the 24th of April 1792, touching only at St. Jagos on his passage. 723
4803
4804Captain Magee was in a very disordered state of health, when he made the land to the southward of Cape Ingraham, when his health was so much impaired that he gave up the conducting of his ship to Mr. Lamb, his Chief Officer. They ran for the south end of this island. This was the first port they had entered on the coast. They had been laying in this port 10 days and had collected but few skins. We beat in and anchored at 7 PM a little above the Margeret, with the best bower in 8 f[atho]m water.
4805
4806Saluted Captain Magee with three cheers. [56] As soon as the vessel came to I waited on Captain Magee, and was happy in having news from my native country, in this remote clime.
4807
4808Captain Magee commanded as fine a vessel as ever I saw of her size, and appeared exceedingly well fitted for his voyage, and I believe there was no expense spared. I found on board here, letters for
4809
4810-- 329 --
4811Capt. Gray and Mr. Hoskins, from our owners, and letters for the other gentlemen from their friends. Capt. Magee and his officers put letters in my charge to be forwarded to Boston by the first opportunity. 724
4812
4813Capt. Magee will purchase but few skins in this port and those at a very high price. Of course his stay at this port will be short. He talks of going to the northward to Cook River, but in this respect his mind will change or he will be much in the wrong.
4814
4815Thursday, May 10th.
4816
4817
4818
4819Wind Calm. Finding I should purchase but few skins, on the morning of the 10th I weighed and towed out of the cove. It continued calm until the 12th when the tide came nigh drifting us on the breakers off Cape Haswell. 725
4820
4821On the 13th the winds were variable and we were in the mouth of the [57] straits of Admiral de Font. 726
4822
4823Endeavoring to get to the northward.
4824
4825Monday, May 14th.
4826
4827
4828
4829Wind NW. The wind coming in to the northward and westward I thought it my best way to stand over to the main, but we soon had an alteration in the wind.
4830
4831Tuesday, May 15th.
4832
4833
4834
4835Wind SSE. On the 15th we stood in nigh the land and ran along shore, and passed several deep sounds. At noon I observed in Latitude 52° 43' N and by 6 in the evening we were abreast of Comsuah's Village, 727 and judging I should not be able to fetch the anchoring ground before it was dark I wore, and stood off upon a wind to the eastward.
4836
4837I soon saw several canoes coming off. We hove too and waited for them to come alongside. I purchased several skins of them. The night was moderate and pleasant.
4838
4839Wednesday, May 16th.
4840
4841
4842
4843Wind Variable. Early in the morning
4844
4845-- 330 --
4846of the 16th we stood into Tooscondolth Sound 728 and anchored at 11 AM but finding the place not so well sheltered as a cove not far distant, I weighed, and having sounded with the boat, anchored in Hope Cove in 17 f[atho]m water, 729 gravel bottom, about noon. On the latter part of the day I purchased a number of good skins. [58]
4847
4848The 17th was clear, cold weather with the wind from the southward. I purchased a considerable number of skins of the natives and had my people employed on necessary ship's duties.
4849
4850Friday, May 18th.
4851
4852
4853
4854Wind SW. On Friday the 18th we were again thronged with a number of natives and many skins were purchased, 730 but finding their stock was nearly spent, in the evening, I determined on the morrow to depart, and early on the 19th I weighed and stood out to sea with exceedingly pleasant weather.
4855
4856Saturday, May 19th.
4857
4858
4859
4860Wind NNE. At noon I observed in Latitude 53°7' N. Hope cove is in Latitude [ ] N and Longitude [ ] W. This place is not an excellent harbor, but it will, as an anchoring place to trade with the natives, answer very well.
4861
4862It is situated on the North side of Tooscondolth sound, and the first cove after passing a barren island. 731 At the entrance there is a dangerous reef, to avoid which I advise to go to the southward of it. 732 Comsuah has at this time his town at least 4 leagues to the southward of the place where we lay. 733 [59]
4863
4864We stretched over NNE until 11 in the evening, when we hove to until daylight.
4865
4866Sunday, May 20th.
4867
4868
4869
4870Wind Northwardly. Early in the morning of the 20th several canoes came off to the southward of Hatches Island
4871
4872-- 331 --
4873and I purchased of them several good skins. They were very anxious for me to go in, but there is a reef to the southward of Hatches Island which is very dangerous to pass. I therefore determined to make the best of my way to the northward of the island and there seek a harbor. In the evening the wind veered to the southward and was moderate. I lay to all night.
4874
4875Monday, May 21st.
4876
4877
4878
4879Wind NW. In the morning of the 21st I stretched to the northward of Hatches Island and the same people boarded me that were off yesterday. They had been diligently employed since we parted, for they had 6 otter in their canoe, yet warm with life.
4880
4881I purchased them and stood to the northward. About 3 leagues in a NNE direction from Hatches Island is a very deep sound running in to the SE 734 and there is but little doubt that it must contain good harbors, but at too great a distance for me to go at present. If I can, on my return from the northward, conveniently, I will examine this place thoroughly.
4882
4883This place laying so adjacent to Hatches Island I call it by the same name. [60]
4884
4885Tuesday, May 22d.
4886
4887
4888
4889Wind SE. The morning of the 22d was cloudy with rain. At 11 AM I entered Derby Sound and stood in for Allen Cove. 735 The wind was light but the tide in our favor, and with the assistance of the boat ahead and the sweeps, we anchored about 2 PM and moored ship. We found no natives here. I landed with Mr. Waters and we shot several geese. Latter part rain and squally.
4890
4891Wednesday, May 23d.
4892
4893
4894
4895Wind Calm. The 23d our shooting party shot several geese. Mr. Waters wounded a wolf, and I had the good fortune to shoot a turkey. 736 People employed preparing to take in ballast, wood and water.
4896
4897Thursday, May 24th.
4898
4899
4900
4901Wind SE. On the 24th cloudy with rain. Employed ballasting, wooding and watering.
4902
4903Friday, May 25th.
4904
4905
4906
4907Wind N. Early on the 25th with a light breeze
4908
4909-- 332 --
4910off the land we weighed and stood out to sea. It was now my intention to make the best of my way up Brown's Sound, 737 but I was no sooner clear of the land than the wind became directly adverse to my intention. I stretched over for Cape Lookout and was abreast of it at 8 PM. The wind still remained northwardly, but it thickened up in the [61] southern quarter and promised a gale in that direction, and I shaped my course into Hancock's Straits 738 intending to go a little way to the northward on the sea side.
4911
4912Saturday, May 26th.
4913
4914
4915
4916Wind ESE. On the 26th it was thick, unpleasant weather, we ran along shore and at 6 PM were abreast of Tadents. It now fell calm and we had as disagreeable a sea as ever I saw. In the night we had a lively breeze at ESE and I stood to the westward and northward with reefed sails.
4917
4918Sunday, May 27th.
4919
4920
4921
4922Wind E by N. At 7 AM on the 27th shook the reefs out and put the bonnet on the jib, and hauled in for the land with the wind at E by N and at noon I observed in Latitude 54°59' N. 739 At 8 PM the eastwardmost land in sight bore E by S and the westwardmost W by N. The night was hazy.
4923
4924Monday, May 28th.
4925
4926
4927
4928Wind E by S. All the 28th was light breezes, scarce enough to give the vessel steerage way. We were abreast of Distress cove, 740 and the land in sight was a number of large, high islands.
4929
4930Tuesday, May 29th.
4931
4932
4933
4934Wind WNW. We had altered our situation on the 29th but very little, but the wind coming in to the westward and having the appearance of a lasting breeze I altered my course to the southward. Latter part cloudy with frequent showers.
4935
4936Wednesday, May 30th.
4937
4938
4939
4940Wind WNW. At 8 AM on the 30th Douglases Island 741 bore ENE distance 3 leagues. At noon I observed in Lat. 54°42' N. [62]
4941
4942-- 333 --
4943Thursday, May 31st.
4944
4945
4946
4947Wind light breeze, WNW. Cloudy with frequent showers of rain and disagreeable weather. At 4 Douglass Isle bore NW by N½N distance 3 leagues.
4948
4949It was my intention now to visit Sushin 742 if possible, and with this determination I shaped my course for Murderer's Cape. My Latitude at noon was 54°2' N. All the latter part of these 24 hours was nearly calm. At 8 PM Cape Lookout bore ESE and Murderer's Cape N½W.
4950
4951Friday, June 1st.
4952
4953
4954
4955Wind Calm. Moderate breezes inclining to calm. At noon Murderer's Cape bore N by W½W distance 3 leagues. The westwardmost land in sight bore W½S. My Latitude 54°27' N. At 5 PM we passed Murderer's Cape and advanced about 6 miles when it fell calm.
4956
4957Saturday, June 2d.
4958
4959
4960
4961Wind ESE. At 3 AM on the 2d a light breeze sprung up to the eastward which soon increased to a fresh gale attended with rain and thick weather. I directly made the best of our way to Port Tempest at which place I anchored at ½ past 12, with fresh gales and squalls.
4962
4963We found the natives had dug the corpse of Mr. Caswell up, and by the appearance it must have been done soon after burial. 743
4964
4965We must unavoidably stay in this port till a favorable opportunity serves to [63] visit Sushin. I set the seamen and carpenters on several necessary jobs in their departments. Strong gales and thick, disagreeable weather.
4966
4967Sunday, June 3d.
4968
4969
4970
4971Wind ESE. Filled up the empty water casks with salt water. Several of the people fancying they saw a smoke rising from among the trees abreast of the watering place, I fired among the trees in that direction.
4972
4973Monday, June 4th.
4974
4975
4976
4977Wind E by S. Constant rain and heavy gales. Filled two tanks of water.
4978
4979Wednesday, June 6th.
4980
4981
4982
4983Wind WNW. On the 6th it cleared away
4984
4985-- 334 --
4986and a light breeze sprung up to the westward, with which we weighed and towed out, but the wind being against us we fetched to leeward of the anchoring place, and we plied to the windward all the night. As we were towing out a canoe was seen to land and a native walk away along the beach. This, together with the smoke we saw frequently nigh the watering place, tempts me to think we have been watched narrowly by the natives who keep themselves secret from us in hopes to have us in their power at some unguarded moment. 744 The information of my commanding this vessel may no doubt have easily reached this place from Washington's Island, or from Legonee.
4987
4988Thursday, June 7th.
4989
4990
4991
4992Wind WNW. NW by N. At 6 on the morning of the 7th we anchored in 25 f[atho]m water nigh our former place. [64] It was my intention to lay here the principal part of the day and wait the appearance of the natives. Conscious it would not do to spend more time in the sound I was determined to leave it in the afternoon. My intention was now to cruise the coast of the Continent down to Naspatee, 745 where I hope to arrive the last of the month. At 3 PM weighed and made sail to the southward.
4993
4994Friday, June 8th.
4995
4996
4997
4998Wind WNW. At 8 Murderer's Cape bore WSW and the eastwardmost land in sight bore ESE. The night was pleasant.
4999
5000Saturday, June 9th.
5001
5002
5003
5004Wind NW. Coasting along very nigh the land and seeking villages, but had the misfortune to see not one native to the northward of Hatches Island. The wind now became light and flattering, inclining to calm. We had coasted very nigh the land before we came to the Lat. 53°15' N when two canoes came off and several skins were purchased of them.
5005
5006Sunday, June 10th.
5007
5008
5009
5010Wind ESE. The wind came in to the southward with light moderate breezes and in the night it was foggy. Making short stretches towards the land.
5011
5012Monday, June 11th.
5013
5014
5015
5016Wind Variable. On Monday the 11th I coasted to the southward without seeing any natives or any inlet that promised a harbor. In the afternoon being abreast of a large rock that looked like the haunt of sea lions I sent the [65] boat, but
5017
5018-- 335 --
5019they saw none. This rock is situated a few leagues to the westward of rocky sound. In the evening stood to the southward under easy sail.
5020
5021Tuesday, June 12th.
5022
5023
5024
5025Wind NNE. In the morning of the 12th the wind was light off shore. To the SE of me lay Barron Hill bay, 746 and in it I hoped to find a good harbor, but all this day was calm and I had it not in my power to seek them. I observed at noon in Lat. 52°59' N.
5026
5027About 7 in the evening a canoe came off and I purchased 5 skins of them. They informed me there was a large tribe where I was endeavoring to get in. It was calm all night.
5028
5029Wednesday, June 13th.
5030
5031
5032
5033Wind SSE. On the 13th it blew a stiff breeze on shore and we could not venture nigh. It was thick and cloudy all these 24 hours, and on the 14th the wind (WNW) chopped in so strong to the westward that we could not fetch within 3 leagues of the entrance.
5034
5035I now resolved to seek further to the southward and bore away with a strong north gale, and at noon I observed in Lat. 52°33' N and Long. 129°32' W. 747 At 3 PM the wind moderating we shook the reefs out. At 8 PM it became squally and the wind hauled to the southward. The islands off Cape Ingraham 748 bore S by W distance 74 miles. Squally through the night.
5036
5037Friday, June 15th.
5038
5039
5040
5041Wind WNW. The 15th we had moderate breezes and cloudy weather. At noon saw the outwardmost of Ingraham Islands bearing SE by E½E. My Lat. was 51°11' N and Long. 129°39' W. [66] On the latter part of the day the wind hauled far to the southward. At 9 I stood off, Cape Ingraham Isles bearing E by N½N distance 8 miles. Disagreeable weather all night.
5042
5043Saturday, June 16th.
5044
5045
5046
5047Wind SE. Strong gales and a large sea. Came under snug sail. At noon my Lat. was 50°41' N and Long. 130°24' W. Much wind, sea, and rain, with thick weather. At 8 PM
5048
5049-- 336 --
5050Woody point bore S by E distance 77 miles. 749 A lively breeze from the westward sprung up with which I stood SE. Sunday, June 17th. Wind WNW. At daylight on the 17th I hauled in for the point.
5051
5052
5053We soon saw a ship in the NE quarter. I hauled for her and soon discovered it to be the Columbia. They were just out of Pintards Sound. 750 For a considerable time after we parted company they had very disagreeable weather, but latterly they had good success. To the southward they spoke his Britianic Majesty's Ship Discovery, George Vancouver Esq., Commander, and Brig Chatham, Wm. Brouton, Commander. 751 They sailed from Falmouth April 1st 1791 touched at the Society, Friendly and Sandwich Islands, the latter of which they left in March, and made the coast in Lat. 39° N. They had made no discovery and wanted to be informed of any we may have made. This was cheerfully conformed with. They were bound to explore the Straits of Juan de Fuca and Admiral du Font, and to finish whatever [67] Capt. Cook left unfinished, and during the time the Columbia was in their company they entered the Straits of Juan de Fuca and proceeded up as far as the eye could reach. 752
5054They discovered a harbor in Lat. 46°53' N and Long. 122°51' W. This is Gray's harbor. Here they were attacked by the natives and the savages had a considerable slaughter made among them. 753
5055
5056They next entered Columbia River and went up it about 30 miles and doubted not it was navigable upwards of a hundred. Besides sea otter skins they purchased a great number of land furs of very considerable value. 754 After leaving this they came again to the northward and went into Naspahty. Here they were attacked by the natives
5057
5058-- 337 --
5059and they were necessitated to kill a great number of them. 755 They next went up Pintard's Sound. Here again they were formidably attacked and a considerable fall of natives ensued. 756
5060
5061The ship during the cruise had collected upwards of 700 sea otter skins and 15 thousand skins of various other species. 757 Both our vessels were bound to Naspatee, and anchored there early in the evening.
5062
5063On the 18th all hands employed preparing to haul the sloop on the ground to grave. Delivered to Capt. Gray 238 sea otter skins 142 Tails 23 Cootsacks and 19 Peices. 758 Latter part hazy. [68]
5064
5065The 19th was such disagreeable weather that little was done.
5066
5067The 20th I hauled on shore and graved one side. Fine pleasant weather.
5068
5069The 21st having finished graving 759 we filled part of our water and had a party wooding.
5070
5071Delivered to Capt. Gray 12 sheets of copper, 760 and on the 23d received from Capt. Gray 8 great coats and 8 blankets.
5072
5073Sunday, June 24th.
5074
5075
5076
5077Wind SE. Being perfectly ready for sea, in the morning of the 24th we weighed and stood out to sea. At noon we passed Woody Point. As we outsailed the ship, in the afternoon we hove to and waited her coming up. The outwardmost island off Cape Ingraham bore NW and the eastwardmost land in sight bore E by S.
5078
5079Monday, June 25th.
5080
5081
5082
5083Wind NW. In the morning being ahead of the ship I altered the course from W by N to NW by N, having passed Ingraham's Isles, but the ship not following my example by
5084
5085-- 338 --
508611 AM was quite out of sight. I had no observation. In the evening I stood to the southward and met the ship about midnight.
5087
5088Tuesday, June 26th.
5089
5090
5091
5092Wind Variable. Tuesday the 26th all the first part of the day was moderate inclining to a calm. At noon the ship was about 5 miles to the northward of us. I observed in Lat. 51° 23' N and Long. 129° 28' W. In the latter part of the day a light breeze sprung up at SE. We made sail and at 6 were alongside the ship. I drank tea with Capt. Gray. [69] We were now about 3 leagues from the land.
5093
5094Wednesday, June 27th.
5095
5096
5097
5098Wind SSE. We hauled our wind to the SW and stood off till morning, when we made sail to the NW. At 8 AM Capt. Gray ordered me ahead. At noon my Lat. per account was 52° 8' N and Long. 129° 43' W.
5099
5100We are now abreast of the south entrance of Loblip Sound 761 and the coast is broken into low craggy islands and detached sunken rocks. I was surprised to find Capt. Gray standing in for the land in a place that looked to me very dangerous. However, as he had ordered me to lead off I did not follow him. He had all sail on his ship, steering sails below and aloft. I had seen as I passed several sunken reefs of rocks, and as the Columbia passed not looking out properly, she struck. I immediately made sail to windward, hoisted my boat out and set off for the ship. She fired a gun, but soon swung clear of the rock and hoisting her colors stood towards me. The ship had been going at the rate of 5 knots when she struck. 762 She appeared to have met with no material damage compared with what might have been expected. Much of her sheathing was bruised off, and before this unfortunate accident she was a perfectly tight vessel, but she now made 400 strokes of her pump in an hour. I advised Capt. Gray to make the best of his way to Derby Sound and there to repair his ship I keeping way with him at the same time. This he complied with and [70] making sail we stood to the windward and at 10 we hove to with her head to the SW to wait for daylight.
5101
5102Thursday, June 28th.
5103
5104
5105
5106Wind NE. At 3 AM on the morning of the 28th we bore away for the northward. At 8 AM I took a number of
5107
5108-- 339 --
5109people on board the Columbia to assist in pumping. The whole day was pleasant with a lively breeze, and in the evening the wind changed to the westward. Capt. Gray told me it was his intention to beat to windward on this shore until a southward wind should spring up, bidding me to make sail and he would follow. Wind WNW. I stretched off till midnight under reefed sail, when both vessels tacked together. The breeze was fresh with a tumbling sea.
5110
5111Friday, June 29th.
5112
5113
5114
5115Wind WNW. At 2 AM the officer of the watch informed me the ship had suddenly disappeared, and he feared she had foundered. I immediately hove about and stood directly towards the place we saw her last, but standing ½ an hour we could not see her, and confident that Capt. Gray would not stand far off shore I now hove about in for the land. It was perfectly daylight in an hour after we first missed her, being daybreak at the time, but she was not in sight. I stood in shore till 7 and then hove to, being of opinion that the ship would stretch in here to day if she remained above water. 763
5116
5117Finding we drifted very fast I set the double reefed mainsail and head of the jib, and [71] stretched to and fro. At noon I observed in Lat. 52° 55' N and Long. 129° 45' W. It was my intention to stand to and fro nigh this place the remainder of the day, and then make the best of my way to Derby Sound, and then wait a week, and if I should not see her in the course of that time, to cruise the coast and meet at the rendevous at the time appointed, St. Tammonie's Harbor, Port Montgomery, the last of August.
5118
5119I fear in the night the ship sprung a worse leak occasioned by the damage she had received on the rocks, and foundered without having time to make any signal to us, who when we saw her last were ½ a mile ahead; otherwise I cannot account for so sudden a separation in such clear, pleasant weather, when we had perfect daylight in less than an hour after she was first missed; but I hope she may still be safe. 764 In the evening we had a light breeze at SSE with which I
5120
5121-- 340 --
5122stood to the westward till 10 PM when we hove to with her head to the southward.
5123
5124Saturday, June 30th.
5125
5126
5127
5128Wind SE. In the morning of the 30th we made sail to the north with thick disagreeable weather, and at noon Hatches Island bore S by E distance 3 leagues. At 5 PM we entered Derby Sound and at ½ past 6 anchored in Allen's Cove. I had hoped the ship might have arrived here before me but I am disappointed. We moored head and stern. The night was pleasant.
5129
5130Sunday, July 1st.
5131
5132
5133
5134Wind N. Sunday was attended with a north-wardly wind and [72] flying clouds. Caught many fine fish. Moderate wind and hazy with drizzling rain. As I well knew if the ship should arrive here it would take a considerable number of boards to repair her sheathing, I immediately employed our sawyers.
5135
5136Monday, July 2d.
5137
5138
5139
5140Wind WNW. We caught halibut, flounders, whighting, tomcod, and two species of fish that I am unacquainted with.
5141
5142Tuesday, July 3d.
5143
5144
5145
5146Wind WNW. Tuesday the people were employed as usual. Cut a spar and made a topsail yard, and a tiller of wetupt. The weather was pleasant and wind strong.
5147
5148Wednesday, July 4th.
5149
5150
5151
5152Wind W. Strong gales and pleasant weather. All hands necessarily employed.
5153
5154Thursday, July 5th.
5155
5156
5157
5158Wind W. Early in the morning of the 5th a canoe came alongside of whom we purchased several good skins. They belong to some very distant tribe far up the sound. We found the natives had lived in this cove since our last departure, and had left the frames of several houses. The weather was pleasant. We took up one of our anchors and placed it in a more commodious situation.
5159
5160Friday, July 6th.
5161
5162
5163
5164Wind Variable. SSE. The 6th was cloudy weather. I sent a party out fishing. They met with tolerably good success. At about 4 PM we fancied we heard a cannon and I caused a gun to be fired in answer, and went out myself in the boat in hopes I might see a sail, and imagining their might be a sail beyond the land, [73] I returned and got the sloop under way, and I was out to sea before dark but saw no sail and were afterwards convinced the report we heard was not a cannon, but thunder, hearing the like
5165
5166-- 341 --
5167several times after. At 11 PM being well out clear of the rock we hoisted in the boat. Growing squally we double reefed the mainsail and took the bonnet off the jib. The wind being southwardly I shaped our course for Cape Lookout, intending to go to Hancock's River.
5168
5169Saturday, July 7th.
5170
5171
5172
5173Wind SSE. In the middle watch it grew calm and she drifted in for the sound, but about 4 AM a lively breeze sprang up to the southward, and about 9 AM we sounded in 7 f[atho]m water, on Cape Lookout Shoals. 765 We bore up and ran round them.
5174
5175At noon Cape Lookout bore SSW distance 5 leagues. Hauled in upon a wind for the north side of the island. It was now so late in the day that I gave over all thoughts of going into Masheet 766 this night, but stretched in towards the land under snug sail, having strong gales and cloudy. At 10 PM hove to with her head to the southward.
5176
5177Sunday, July 8th.
5178
5179
5180
5181Wind NNE. At daylight the 8th we made sail for Hancock's River, but finding we could not stem the tide at 11 AM we anchored, the hummock on Cape Lookout 767 bearing ENE and the entrance of the harbor SSW in 7 f[atho]m water. At 2 PM the tide slacked and we weighed and stood in and anchored at 3 PM [74] abreast of the burial ground in 17 f[atho]m water. Several natives came off and I purchased a few skins and fish. Strong gale from the west (NW).
5182
5183Monday, July 9th.
5184
5185
5186
5187Wind WNW. Strong gale from the westward and clear weather. Many of the natives alongside and purchased a considerable number of sea otter skins. In the evening the wind lulled and at midnight it changed to a light breeze at SE. Purchased huckleberries, raspberries, and the finest flavored strawberries I ever tasted. I find that there has been a ship here commanded by one Ugon, whom I suppose to be the French gentleman we carried
5188
5189-- 342 --
5190passenger from Macao to Canton in the Columbia last voyage. 768 His chief mate it seems is Vianna, Capt. Douglass' Portuguese captain in the Ephagene. 769 Capt. Magee has been at Tadent's Village.
5191
5192Tuesday, July 10th.
5193
5194
5195
5196Wind ESE. The 10th was moderate and cloudy. Purchased a number of skins from the natives who all the time I have been in this port, have insisted upon and I have been necessitated to give an enormous price.
5197
5198The 12th in the morning a canoe arrived from Tadents with information that Adamson 770 was at that place in a ship. That Rogers was there in a brig, and they also speak of Barnett and Douglas, speaking [75] highly of their generosity as is usual among them. 771 Thus I find the northern coast is thronged with people well provided with cargoes, there is no doubt. They say Newbury and Treet are with Capt. Rogers. 772
5199
5200Wednesday, July 11th.
5201
5202
5203
5204Wind WNW. At about 10 AM the tide ebbing with the wind to the westward, we weighed and beat out and were followed by several of the natives vociferating strongly in my praise, wishing me well (for I had told them I should come there no
5205
5206-- 343 --
5207more) saying others come, kill us, and take our property by force. 773 You came, bartered with us, and hurt not a man. You are good. Meaning to visit Tadents 774 I stretched off upon a wind and a thick fog ensued, in the midst of which a canoe came alongside and I purchased of them several good skins. At 7 PM tacked ship to the southward. Tacked to the north at 11. Midnight moderate and cloudy. Wind West.
5208
5209The islands of Tadents bear W by S and the hummock on Cape Lookout ESE about a league distant from the nearest land, about abreast of Neden. 775
5210
5211Thursday, July 12th.
5212
5213
5214
5215The morning was thick, unpleasant weather. Saw a sloop to the westward. At 11 a native came off who had been off to China with Capt. Crowell. 776 He informed me he returned with Capt. Crowell [76] and that Capt. Ingraham 777 and Capt. Coolidge were both on the coast. I found this fellow a great prejudice to the trade and I purchased but few skins. They were very loth I should speak the sloop 778 which was to windward.
5216
5217I continued to ply to windward all night and in the morning stretched into the bay that forms the NE entrance to Tadents. 779
5218
5219Friday, July 13th.
5220
5221
5222
5223Wind Southwardly. At noon I spoke the sloop Florinda of Macao, Thomas Cole, commander. 780
5224
5225He sailed the 25th of March and arrived the 12th of July, in Lat. 55°. All well on board. The most miserable thing that ever was
5226
5227-- 344 --
5228formed in imitation of the Ark. He had on board him no less than 40 or 50 stout natives, and alongside 12 canoes all well armed. On the sloop they had not a musket on deck nor any arm except a cutlass, and it was no doubt the intention of Cuneah to make her his prize. This he might have done without the loss of one of the natives. I gave Capt. Cole advice and caution against them and he seemed to take it kindly. In the evening we parted and I directed my course for Norfolk Sound. 781 The night was cloudy with a disagreeable sea and light winds. [77]
5229
5230Wind Westwardly: The weather continued drizzling and disagreeable for several days, during which time the wind kept at SW and I found it necessary to keep a good offing. On the 15th at 2 PM Douglases Island bore E½S distance 12 leagues. 782
5231
5232Tuesday, July 17th.
5233
5234
5235
5236Wind NW. On the 17th I observed in Lat. 56°6' N and Long. 135°24' W. Port Banks bearing N½E distance 8 leagues 783 I saw several spermaceti whales, the first that I have seen this voyage on the coast. The wind was so light that I gained but little to the westward.
5237
5238Wednesday, July 18th.
5239
5240
5241
5242Wind NW by W. At noon observed in Lat. 56°5' N with very pleasant weather. Variation per Ampd. 24°7' E.
5243
5244The 19th was calm. At noon Cape Edgcomb 784 bore NW distance 48 miles. I observed in Lat. 56°12' N and Long. 135°45' W. Strong appearances of a southwardly wind.
5245
5246Friday, July 20th.
5247
5248
5249
5250Wind Southwa[rdl]y. Early in the morning a light breeze sprung up from the southward with which we made sail in shore. At noon Mount Edgecomb bore NW by N½N distance 10 leagues. 785
5251
5252-- 345 --
5253Saturday, July 21st.
5254
5255
5256
5257Wind Westwar[dl]y. The wind was so exceedingly light that I found it impossible to get in to an anchor tonight and I hove to, to wait for morning.
5258
5259
5260Light breeze and exceedingly pleasant. At noon, I observed in Lat. 56°59' N. The anchoring place in Norfolk Sound 786 bore N by W distance 4 miles. About 2 PM finding I gained nothing towards the place I was bound, I anchored in 17 f[atho]m water. Several canoes came off. They had [78] but one skin among them and this they [ ] at no rate for demanding a great coat. We saw but few natives and it is probable there are but few at this place in this season of the year. A more favorable breeze sprang up (WNW) and I weighed but the wind came directly contrary. It was my intention to go further up the sound but after beating till near night I bore up and run out, convinced that all the skins they had this season were purchased by some other vessel. They told me they had been visited by some other vessel with 2 masts, 787 who had sold them a quantity of clothing.
5261
5262Sunday, July 22d.
5263
5264
5265
5266Wind WNW. However, on the 22d I ran in close to their village, but as there was none of them came off I wore and stood to the southward, intending to go into Port Banks, but the breeze soon changed to the southward (SSE) and we plied to windward with very unpleasant weather.
5267
5268Monday, July 23d.
5269
5270
5271
5272Wind Southwardly. The 23d was calm, almost throughout. We had no observation but could see the land at times.
5273
5274Tuesday, July 24th.
5275
5276
5277
5278Wind Westwardly. At about midnight the wind changed to the westward and we stood in shore upon a wind. At 10 we bore away and stood for Port Banks, the entrance of which bore ENE. At noon having the Sound open [79] and the anchoring place bearing N by E I observed the Lat. 56°35' 788 and my Long. 135°9' W. I had a lively breeze up and I reached the anchoring place at
5279
5280-- 346 --
52814 PM. I anchored in the mouth of Salmon River in 9 f[atho]m water about a hundred yards from the shore in one of the pleasantest situations I ever saw, with plenty of good wood and water within cable's length of us. 789 I went up the river to the falls, where the salmon were incredibly numerous, many of which we caught. We found a great abundance of berries and took off a load of wood. Excessively pleasant weather but saw no natives. As there were evident signs that the natives are here frequently I determined to stop a day or two.
5282
5283Wednesday, July 25th.
5284
5285
5286
5287Wind Westwardly. Light breezes and hot, pleasant weather. All hands diligently employed wooding and watering. Caught several salmon.
5288
5289Thursday, July 26th.
5290
5291
5292
5293Wind Southwar[dl]y. Pleasant. Finished wooding and watering setting up rigging. Caught many salmon. In the afternoon I employed myself surveying part of the harbor.
5294
5295Friday, July 27th.
5296
5297
5298
5299Wind SSE. Variable. WNW. Cloudy. At 5 AM weighed and stood down to the mouth of the harbor, but being nearly low water I anchored in 17 f[atho]m water. I now went out and finished a tolerably good survey of the Sound. Shot some gulls and caught some salmon. We saw no natives. [80]
5300
5301Saturday, July 28th.
5302
5303
5304
5305Wind WNW. Early in the morning I weighed with an intention to go out, but the tide still flowing fast I was obliged to anchor again. At ½ past 11 we weighed again and beat out. At 3 PM saw a snow to the westward standing in. She fired a gun, a signal to speak us. I answered it and stood towards them. It is Capt. Mear from Bengal. 790 He has spoken a Portuguese snow, Capt. Viana, in distress at Washington's Islands. 791 They have been far north for they have a skin canoe lashed over their stern, and I noticed Capt. Mear had a pair of Onilascian boots on. He wished
5306
5307-- 347 --
5308me a pleasant voyage and went into Port Banks. I stood to the southward. Light breezes inclining to a calm. As it seemed to promise a westwardly wind I stood to the southward for Washington's Islands. Coasting along shore with very light winds and nothing remarkable except a large swell from the westward.
5309
5310Tuesday, July 31st.
5311
5312
5313
5314Wind NW. On the 31st Douglases Islands bore E by N distance 6 leagues and I stood in SE by E½E for Cape Coolidge. At 3 PM saw the land ahead distance 8 leagues.
5315
5316Wednesday, Aug. 1st.
5317
5318
5319
5320In the morning of the 1st, it was foggy and calm. At 10 a light breeze sprung up from the SW with which we stretched [81] alongshore to the eastward on the north side of the island. In the afternoon calm, had two canoes off. Stood alongshore for Hancock's River and in the evening being nearly abreast of it we hove to for daylight.
5321
5322Friday, Aug. 3d.
5323
5324
5325
5326Wind WNW. On the morning of the 3d at 3 AM made sail for the river. At 4 we observed a ship laying nigh the entrance, which we soon discovered to be French. 792 I anchored nigh her. Found her to be from Le Oriant Sound to Kamschatka, with supplies for that settlement. The supercargo, a Russian gentleman, had made this coast in his way as he meant to touch at Onilasca. On their passage to this coast they had touched at Valparaiso, where they were very politely received.
5327
5328Their next port was Nootka Sound where they sold a considerable quantity of spirituous liquors and clothing for sea-otter skins. This ship was commanded by M. Magon, Mr. Peter Torckler the supercargo, and M. Dupacey, second captain and first pilot. They had passed the bar of the harbor and twice in attempting to return to sea, had run their ship on shore. I went on board and piloted them into the harbor.
5329
5330The latter part of the day was attended with rain.
5331
5332Saturday, August 4th.
5333
5334
5335
5336Wind Westwar[dl]y. The 4th all hands were employed in various ship's duties. In the forenoon I went on board the French ship, and while on board my [82] cloak being
5337
5338-- 348 --
5339carelessly left in the boat was stolen by one of the natives, and he fled with it on shore. I hailed Mr. Waters and ordered him to keep one of the natives prisoner. This he did and one was kept also by Capt. Magon, but the natives who were detained on board the Adventure, saw me returning on board, watched a favorable opportunity to make his escape, which he did, notwithstanding he was fired at. However, the cloak was soon returned.
5340
5341From these French gentlemen I received a present of several gallons of liquor, which, having been out some time, was very acceptable.
5342
5343On the 6th a native we had wounded, came alongside and I gave him shirts for bandages for his wound.
5344
5345The commander of the French ship was very anxious I should stay till he could get out, and offered to make me any indemnification that I should wish, for the loss of my time. However, this I declined. I gave him proper directions for sailing out and on the morning of the 7th (Wind ESE) took my leave. He sent me on board a considerable quantity of new, soft bread. The latter part of the day was calm and light airs from the ESE.
5346
5347Wednesday, Aug. 8th.
5348
5349
5350
5351Wind ESE. Early in the morning of the 8th spoke the [83] brig Grace of New York, R. D. Coolidge, commander, from Macao. We stood into Tadents 793 and anchored together, it being my intention to wait a westwardly wind to join the Columbia. The cove we anchored in, is in the south side of the north island which forms Tadent's Straits, and is certainly a pretty good cove. 794 The wind constantly at ESE with rain and thick, disagreeable weather.
5352
5353Sunday, Aug. 12th.
5354
5355
5356
5357Wind ESE. In the morning of the 12th a Portuguese brig arrived, commanded by Joseph Andrews Tobar, from Macao. 795 Unpleasant weather with constant rains and southwardly winds.
5358
5359Tuesday, Aug. 14th.
5360
5361
5362
5363Wind ESE. In the morning of the 14th
5364
5365-- 349 --
5366Capt. Coolidge 796 weighed and towed out, but the weather was so bad it forced him back at 2 PM. No alteration of winds or weather, nor did any remarkable circumstance occur. Few natives came to us and no skins. Parties out a shooting.
5367
5368Tuesday, Aug. 21st.
5369
5370
5371
5372Wind SW. Early in the morning of the 21st we saw two sails standing in. They proved to be the Hope of Boston, Jos. Ingraham, and the Jackall of London, Stewart, 797 commander. Wind ESE. Captain Ingraham informed me that Capt. Gray was repairing at Nootka Sound where had arrived several English ships.
5373
5374The 24th was hazy. Weighed in company with the Hope and Grace, and stood out of the harbor to the eastward. Left riding here the sloop [84] Jackall and brig Phinex. 798 The wind was variable. At midnight the wind was south and we hove to with our head in shore, the Grace and Hope in shore. Wind SSE.
5375
5376Saturday, Aug. 25th.
5377
5378
5379
5380Wind SSE. At daylight we made sail for Hancock's River and were followed by the brigs. At 11 AM the tide being strong against us I came to in 3 f[atho]m water about a mile distant from the entrance of the harbor. At ½ past 2 weighed and beat into the river and anchored in 17 f[atho]m water. The Grace and Hope soon anchored but dragged their anchors. Strong gales in a contrary direction from the tide caused a large sea, and we were necessitated to ride with two anchors ahead.
5381
5382Sunday, Aug. 26th.
5383
5384
5385
5386Wind ESE. The 26th I went up in my boat to seek a better anchoring place, and returned in the evening, having shot some geese, and found a very secure place. Weighed in company with the Grace and Hope and stood up the river and anchored in 6 f[atho]m water above the island. 799
5387
5388-- 350 --
5389Monday, Aug. 27th.
5390
5391
5392
5393Wind SSW. Monday the 27th was still contrary wind. Party out shooting. Hazy with heavy showers of rain.
5394
5395Tuesday, Aug. 28th.
5396
5397
5398
5399Wind SW. At 7 AM unmoored ship. At noon weighed and was saluted by the brigs which we returned. At 2 were safely out of the harbor. With a light pleasant breeze we [85] stood towards Cape Lookout, but before night we had the misfortune to have a southwardly wind.
5400
5401Wednesday, Aug. 29th.
5402
5403
5404
5405Wind SSE. I continued beating off Cape Lookout until 10 AM the 29th when the wind increased so much that I thought it advisable to bear up round Tadents. 800 This I did and made all sail to the westward. Before the day was out it blew a heavy gale and was thick weather.
5406
5407Thursday, Aug. 30th.
5408
5409
5410
5411Wind WSW. In the morning of the 30th the wind chopped in to the westward and we made all sail to beat past Tadents. At noon observed in Lat. 54° 24' N. At 8 PM the west end of the island bore west.
5412
5413Friday, Aug. 31st.
5414
5415
5416
5417Wind W by S. It was the afternoon of the 31st before we weathered the cape. At 7 PM the west end of Washington's Islands bore N by E distance 4 leagues. Fresh breeze and pleasant.
5418
5419Saturday, Sept. 1st.
5420
5421
5422
5423Stood to the southward for Port Montgomery with a fine breeze and all sail set. At noon I observed in Lat. 52° 57' N and at 10 PM hove to. Midnight hazy and moderate.
5424
5425Sunday, Sept. 2d.
5426
5427
5428
5429Wind North. The morning of the 2d inclined much towards a calm. Observed in 52° 24'. Having very little wind we could not get in to-day. At 8 PM the entrance of Port Montgomery bore E½S 4 miles distant. 801 Midnight calm. [86]
5430
5431Monday, Sept. 3d.
5432
5433
5434
5435Wind Southwar[dl]y. Early in the morning of the 3d we saw a sail to the windward, which by signal we found to be the Columbia. I saluted Capt. Gray with 7 guns which he returned with an equal number. Capt. Gray sent his boat and I went on board the Columbia and piloted her safely into Port Montgomery.
5436
5437-- 351 --
5438The wind dying the sloop was not able to get in to-day. The ship had been well repaired at Nootka but still continued to leak considerably, to remedy which it was necessary to caulk the upper streaks of her sheathing and all her upper works.
5439
5440After parting with us on the 29th of June they doubled their leak. They fothered it and by that means stopped it in a great measure. They fell in with Capt. Magee and with him went to Naspatee, where they laid the ship on shore, and found the damage she had received could not be repaired without putting in a new stem and part of a new keel. This would take a considerable time. They sheathed over the wound and from thence proceeded to Clioquot, but not finding it convenient to repair there, they sailed to Nootka Sound, 802 and were received with every mark of respect by the Spanish Governor, who rendered them every assistance in his [87] power. 803 As soon as the repairs of the ship were completed she made the best of her way for this port where we have been fortunate enough to fall in with her.
5441
5442Tuesday, Sept. 4th.
5443
5444
5445
5446Wind NW. On the 4th in the morning early I met the sloop at the entrance of the harbor and we soon anchored alongside of the Columbia. 804 The coopers were immediately employed preparing to salt [ ] the head seamen in rigging a new topmast and getting topsail and crossjack yards across. I delivered to Capt. Gray 75 sea otter skins, 29 cootsacks, 137 tails, and 25 pieces. Setting the H Lead, graving the bottom, wooding, ballasting, and watering, detained us till the morning of the 13th, during which time we had seen but few natives and but very few skins were purchased. 805
5447
5448Thursday, Sept. 13th.
5449
5450
5451
5452Wind NW. Being completely ready for sea, at ½ past 5 AM we came to sail in company with the Columbia and were soon out of the harbor. It soon grew calm and we experienced very strong currents. Observed in 52° 8' N Gray's Cove bearing
5453
5454-- 352 --
5455NW½W distance 8 miles. At 8 PM Cape Haswell 806 bore N½W distance 2 leagues, in company with the ship.
5456
5457Friday, Sept. 14th.
5458
5459
5460
5461Wind NW. At noon the 14th observed the Lat. 51° 48' N the south part of the island bearing NW by W. In the afternoon it became hazy and we [88] lost sight of the ship. The Columbia fired a cannon which we answered.
5462
5463Saturday, Sept. 15th.
5464
5465
5466
5467Wind SSW. It continued very thick until ½ past 2 AM the 15th when we saw the ship's light bearing east. Stood towards her and joined company at 4 AM steering SE by S. She hauled more to the southward.
5468
5469At noon the outwardmost of the islands of Cape Ingraham 807 bore S 28 E distance 27 miles, our Lat. being 51° 17' N and Long. 129° 48' W. Wind SE by S. It was not late in the afternoon before we saw the island bearing ESE distance 7 leagues. The remainder of the day was cloudy. Wind WNW.
5470
5471Sunday, Sept. 16th.
5472
5473
5474
5475Wind ESE. In the morning the breeze was moderate and hazy. We made all sail and stood to the ESE. At about 6 PM we passed Port Lincoln and it soon grew calm, and the wind came to the eastward.
5476
5477Monday, Sept. 17th.
5478
5479
5480
5481Wind Eastwar[dl]y. The 17th was light airs and hazy. At noon I went on board to see Captain Gray. The land is in sight to the northward but the weather so thick and hazy we could not discern where it was.
5482
5483Tuesday, Sept. 18th.
5484
5485
5486
5487Wind E by N. The winds were still eastwardly the 18th and our progress was slow though we took the advantage of every slant of wind. At 6 in the afternoon Split rock bore N by W½W and the eastwardmost land [89] in sight bore E½S. At 9 squally, in topgallant sail. Midnight a very fresh breeze.
5488
5489Wednesday, Sept. 19th.
5490
5491
5492
5493Wind SE. As the morning came on the wind increased and before 8 AM it blew a gale of wind, but it decreased at noon and we set all sail. At midnight it was moderate and cloudy.
5494
5495Thursday, Sept. 20th.
5496
5497
5498
5499Wind SW. In the morning we found ourselves off Ahatset. Made all sail and at dusk in the evening North
5500
5501-- 353 --
5502Point 808 bore E by S. Wind WNW. At 8 PM I spoke the Columbia and we hove to, to wait for daylight. At daylight we made sail for Nootka Sound, with at first a light, but afterwards a lively breeze. We soon saw a snow 809 standing to the southward. She tacked and stood to the westward for us, and our ship bore away for her. As Capt. Gray had directed me to go into the sound before him I continued my course and at ½ past 1 PM anchored in Friendly Cove. 810 I hauled into a snug berth and moored. The Columbia soon after anchored.
5503
5504Capt. Gray informed me it was Don Quadra that was in the snow, bound to the Straits of Juan de Fuca and from thence to St. Blass. This gentleman told Capt. Gray, he should stop four days at de Fuca's Straits to purchase the sloop if we would follow him thither. This Capt. Gray complied with, and as soon as he anchored Capt. Gray informed me it was his intention to sail [90] for Juan de Fuca's Straits in the morning.
5505
5506Friday, Sept. 21st.
5507
5508
5509
5510Wind W. We went on shore and paid our respects to the Spanish Commandant, who politely offered everything that lay in his power to assist us. We then went on board Capt. Vancover's ship. 811 He received us with every mark of respect and attention. We mutually informed each other of our discoveries. He went up the Straits of Juan de Fuca and surveyed it round and came out at Pintard's Straits, 812 and had discovered a passage to the north east, which he had not explored.
5511
5512The Discovery lay on a reef of rocks a whole tide, and the Chatham had been on shore several times and received considerable
5513
5514-- 354 --
5515damage. 813 They finished the repairs of her bottom this day. Capt. Vancouver told me it was his intention to visit Columbia's River.
5516
5517On his arrival at Friendly Cove he expected the whole of it was to be delivered up to him, and for it to become a British port, instead of which the Spanish Governor would only deliver the ground usually occupied by Mr. John Mears. 814 This small spot was refused by Capt. Vancouver, and the two commanders thought it best to refer the business [91] to their Royal Masters, and until the business it will remain a Spanish port. 815
5518
5519We found here besides His Majesty's Ships Discovery, Chatham, and Dedalus Store Ship, a Spanish ship, the Margret of Boston, the Jackall of London, and the Phenex of Macao. 816
5520
5521Saturday, Sept. 22d.
5522
5523
5524
5525Wind WNW. At daylight in the morning of the 22d I weighed and sailed out of the port in company with the Columbia. We were followed with a lively breeze. Passed Breakers' Point at 11 AM and Clioquot at 5 PM and all night steered SE. 817
5526
5527Sunday, Sept. 23d.
5528
5529
5530
5531Wind NE. In the morning we saw Cape Flattery bearing ESE 8 leagues, and we saw two sail in shore. The one was the Spanish snow and the other a small sloop. 818 At noon Cape Flattery bore ENE employed playing into the Straits. At 6 PM the entrance of Port Poverty 819 bore NE by E. Cape Flattery SE by S
5532
5533-- 355 --
5534and Neah E by S½S. Disagreeable weather with a large sea. Inclining to a calm.
5535
5536Wednesday, Sept. 26th.
5537
5538
5539
5540Wind WNW. At noon on the 26th Cape Flattery bore SSE. At 2 PM saw the shipping at anchor in Neah. At 3 the Columbia's pinnace came off to assist [us] in. At 11 anchored with [92] the small bower in 7 f[atho]m water. Found riding here the Spanish ship Princessia, and Spanish snow Acteva, Don Quadra, the ship Columbia, and brig Hope, Jos. Ingraham.
5541
5542Thursday, Sept. 27th.
5543
5544
5545
5546Wind E. At sunrise the morning of the 27th I saluted the Spanish snow with 9 guns, which she returned with an equal number. I had the honor of a visit from Don Quadra and saluted him with 9 guns coming and going.
5547
5548In the afternoon Capt. Ingraham sailed in company with the Princessa, Lieut. Fidalgo, who was going to supercede Lieut. Camannio, the present commander at Nootka Sound. 820 Light breezes and pleasant weather.
5549
5550Friday, Sept. 28th.
5551
5552
5553
5554Wind ESE. In the morning Capt. Gray concluded his bargain with Commodore Quadra, for the sloop, for which he received 75 sea otter skins of a superior quality, and in the afternoon taking all the provisions out of her I delivered her up to Don Arrow, first Lieut. of the Spanish snow, and repaired on board the Columbia with all my crew. 821 As it was necessary to cut a large quantity of wood and a number of spars to last us to Boston, Capt. Gray [93] concluded to go over to Port Poverty where it would be much more convenient, and much less danger of the natives.
5555
5556Saturday, Sept. 29th.
5557
5558
5559
5560Wind NE. Accordingly, early in the morning Capt. Gray took his leave of Don Quadra, 822 and we weighed and sailed, saluting the Spanish flag with 13 guns, which was returned by both ship and sloop.
5561
5562We had a very favorable passage across the straits and anchored in Poverty Cove at dusk in the evening, a little within the chops of
5563
5564-- 356 --
5565the harbor, and early in the morning (Sunday, Sept. 30th. Wind SW by W) we worked up abreast of the watering place with the small bower, and moored with the kedge. Sent a strong party on shore wooding and cutting spars. Took off a boat load of wood.
5566
5567Monday, Oct. 1st.
5568
5569
5570
5571Wind Variable. The 1st was pleasant with light land and sea breezes. A party wooding. Cut a maintopmast, a topsail yard, two topgallant masts, topgallant yards, boat masts, spirits, booms, boat hooks, etc. 823
5572
5573Tuesday, Oct. 2d.
5574
5575
5576
5577Wind Westward[l]y. On the 2d we filled our water, completed our wood, and cut a number of logs for plank. The natives visited us with a few fish.
5578
5579Wednesday, Oct. 3rd.
5580
5581
5582
5583Wind NE. The 3d had light breezes off the land and pleasant weather. Sent a party on shore to fill the remaining empty water casks [94] which when completed consisted of 47 hogs-heads, containing 5076 gallons, and 11 gang casks containing 469. The total amount of water on board was 5545 gallons. Sent the boat to a distant beach for sand. Unmoored ship, and being completely ready for sea, at 6 AM we weighed and sailed out of Port Poverty with a lively breeze at NE and pleasant weather. 824 As we came out we met a canoe with a number of good salmon, which we purchased for chisels. As soon as we were clear of the harbor we hoisted in the boat and made all sail, unbent the cables, stowed the anchors, unstocked the sheet anchor and took it on board. Struck the guns below, secured the spars and stanchioned between decks. At noon I observed in Lat. 48°25' N Tatooches Island bearing east 4 leagues. Much joy was expressed by the crew on our safe departure, appearing happy at being once more turned towards their native country, even though its distance is so great.
5584
5585The NE end of Owhyhee 825 bore N 41 W [sic] distance 2270
5586
5587-- 357 --
5588Miles. Owhyhee Lat. 20° N Long. 155° W and Tatooches Island Lat. 48°19' N 124° W. . . . [121] 826
5589
5590Monday, Oct. 29th.
5591
5592
5593
5594Wind NNE. Fresh breeze and pleasant. At 3 PM hove to off NE part of the island. Purchased 11 hogs with a considerable quantity of potatoes. 827 At 6 PM the NW end of Owhyhee bore W by S. At 7 we hauled our wind to stand off and on the night. At midnight squally with rain.
5595
5596Tuesday, Oct. 30th.
5597
5598
5599
5600Wind NE. Fresh gale and squally. At 4 AM the brig Phenex 828 passed in shore of us. At 6 bore away for the westward. At 7 rounded to and purchased a few hogs, and then made sail for Tocyahyah Bay 829 where we arrived at 11 AM but it blew exceedingly hard, and Capt. Gray supposing it would prevent us from obtaining a supply of pork, was anxious to bear away for Wahoo. 830 This I dissuaded him from, all that lay in my power, and the ship drew into the bay the water became more smooth and the wind less violent, and we were soon thronged with a vast number of canoes plentifully stocked with hogs and potatoes. At noon the extremes of Owyhee bore from SSE to NE distance from the land about 4 miles.
5601
5602We were visited by no chief of any consequence and by no person I could recollect ever to have seen before. At 2 PM having on board ninety hogs and a number of water and musk melons, 831 squashes, plantins, bread fruit, and sugar cane with a small quantity of potatoes, we bore away for Onehow to furnish ourselves with a stock of
5603
5604-- 358 --
5605yams for our sea stock. 832 [122] At 6 the west end of Taharoah bore WNW 6 leagues. 833 Latter part squally.
5606
5607Wednesday, Oct. 31st.
5608
5609
5610
5611Wind NE by N. At 5 AM on the 31st set all sail and hauled more to the northward. At ½ past 8 AM in steering sails and royals. Rani bore north. At ½ past 11 in topgallant sails and staysails. Noon cloudy. Stretched into the leeward of Wyatittee Bay. 834 The west end of Wahoo bore WNW 3 leagues. Wyatittee Bay is in Lat. [ ] north and Long. [ ] west. In the afternoon we coasted the south side of Wahoo. At 6 PM the west end bore NW by N distance 3 leagues, and shaped our course for Attoi. 835 Very squally with rain.
5612
5613Thursday, Nov. 1st.
5614
5615
5616
5617Wind Variable. At 3 AM on the 1st of November we saw the Island of Attoi bearing W by N½N 2 leagues distant. At 5 reefed and hove to, main topsail to the mast to wait for daylight. At 7 AM wore and made sail for Onehow.
5618
5619At 3 PM we rounded the SW bluff and made an endeavor to beat up to the anchoring place but in this were disappointed, and we were necessitated to lay of and on till morning. Blowing exceedingly hard.
5620
5621Friday, Nov. 2d.
5622
5623
5624
5625Wind Variable. At daylight the wind was on shore. Several canoes came off, of whom were purchased a considerable number of yams.
5626
5627At noon Capt. Gray judging it not safe to anchor as the winds were so variable, we made sail for Macao, taking our Departure from Lat. 21°59' N and Long. 156°15' W.. . . [154] 836
5628
5629Sunday, Dec. 4th.
5630
5631
5632
5633Wind NE by N. Fresh breeze and pleasant weather. At 2 PM saw a continuation of the chain of islands, extending so far to the NE that with the wind as it now is we could not
5634
5635-- 359 --
5636weather them, and to pass between them appeared dangerous, but as the passage between Monmouth and Grafton Islands appeared the most eligible, thither we directed our course. At this time the extremes of the group of the Bashees, bore from NW to SSE. At 6 PM we passed betwixt the islands and doubled pretty nigh Grafton, and sailed close under the lee of Orringe Isle and stood to the NE under easy sail. 837 We saw many fires on the island but saw no natives, for it was dark before we passed the channel. At daylight made all sail. Saw the Island of Formosa bearing N by W½ W. At noon the south end of Formosa bore E by N dist. 14 leagues. Lat. obs. 21°33' N. 838
5637
5638-- NA --
5639
5640John Boit's Log of the Second Voyage of the 'Columbia'
5641-- [363] --
5642
5643Remarks on the Ship Columbia's voyage from Boston, (on a Voyage, round the Globe) by John Boit
5644N.B. The dates etc. Is by Nautical Account (Not Civill)
5645
5646
5647
5648THE Ship Columbia was fited out for a four years cruize, on a trading voyage to the NW Coast of America, China etc. -- about 250 tons burthen, mounted 12 Carriage Guns, and navigated with 50 men (including Officers) -- own'd cheifly by Sam[ue]l Brown, Joseph Barrell and Crowell Hatch Esqrs -- and Commanded by Robert Gray. Cargo consisted of Blue Cloth, Copper and Iron.
5649
56501790, September 28. Latt. of Boston 42°25' N. Long. 70°31' W. from London. Left Boston Sept. 28th 1790 with the wind from the western board, and the next day pass'd Cape Cod On the 30th the wind having chang'd to the Eastd. and blowing heavy, oblidged us to bear away, and we anchor'd the same evening in Herring Cove, on the west side Cape Cod, in 15 f[atho]m muddy bottom, but not liking our situation, we got under way the following morning, and anchor'd the same evening in Nantaskett Roads, in 7 f[atho]m. blowing weather, from the Eastern board.
5651
5652October 2.
5653
5654
5655
5656Wind at SW. Weigh'd and came to sail, stood to sea On the 3d pass'd Cape Cod, at 3 leagues distance. Generally blowing hard, with squalls of rain.
5657
56588. N. Latt. 40°30' W. Long. 55°43' Azi. 14°35' W. á». Ship sails dull, but is a fine seaboat, Crew appears to be a set of fine fellows. . . . 839
5659
566030. N. Latt. 20° W. Long. 23° This Day took the NE trade winds, after experiencing one day's calm, (between the variable and trades).
5661
5662November 1.
5663
5664
5665
5666N. Latt. 17°16' W. Long. 22°30'. In the Course of
5667
5668-- 364 --
5669this day, Saw the Island of Sal, (one of the Cape de Verd Isles) 29½ days from Boston light house, (a long passage) Pass'd it to the Eastward and bore away to the Southd. high land. Crew are all in health, although the regulation of the Ship as respects cleanliness among them, is not strict. [2]
5670
5671Towards Cape Horn
5672
56734.
5674
5675
5676
5677N. Latt. 12°15' W. Long. 23°6' Azi. 13°28' W. This day lost the NE trade winds, and immediatly took the wind from the Southward.
5678
56797.
5680
5681
5682
5683N. Latt. 9°16' W. Long. 22°35' Ampd. 11°52' W. Light variable winds, pleasent warm weather, attended at times with sharp lightning.
5684
56859.
5686
5687
5688
5689N. Latt. 7°21' W. Long. 22°13'. Squally weather with rain, with sharp lightning and heavy thunder, many water spouts in different directions. experience very heavy squalls. Winds all round the compass since losing the trades. many vessells in sight.
5690
569114.
5692
5693
5694
5695N. Latt. 5°4' W. Long. 22°13'. Winds continue very variable and squally. this day spoke two ships, one a Portuguese from Lisbon bound to Rio Janeiro, the other an English Whaleman from England, for the Brazill coast, The Captain (by name Buller) was an American.
5696
569718.
5698
5699
5700
5701N. Latt. 3°48' W. Long. 23°30'. This day Capt. Buller left us, his ship sailing much faster than ours. Winds and weather still remains very unsettled, with hard squalls, carried away our Jib boom, and got a new one out. a constant swell from the SE. Winds harp most at SSW.
5702
570319.
5704
5705
5706
5707N. Latt. 2°41' W. Long. 25°42' Azi. 11°32'. Weather pleasent. This day took the wind at SSE which no doubt is the commencement of the SE generall winds. The weather at this time is quite settled. heretofore since leaving the NE trades, it has been very gloomy and dark. Have noticed since passing the Latt. of 12° that the winds generally have been from South to SSW. at times squalls from West.
5708
570921.
5710
5711
5712
5713N. Latt. 2°38' W. Long. 24°48' Azi. 10°30' W. A constant Current, setting to the Northward, in these Latitudes; (two sail in sight). . . .
5714
5715-- 365 --
571625.
5717
5718
5719
5720W. Long. 26°57' á». In the course of this day cross'd the Equator, Wind at SE b S and pleasent serene temperate weather, have fish of different Kinds round most of the time Ship's crew are all in health.
5721
572254½ days from Boston, 25 days from Isle of Sal, (long passages). Keep all hands through the day in good weather employ'd in the various departments of the ship; it is best to keep them moving. They are allow'd tea or coffee, each morning and in generall the ships fare is good, but proper attention to airing there beds and cloathing, and fumigating their berths is not paid. . . .
5723
572428.
5725
5726
5727
5728S. Latt. 3°34' W. Long. 29°5'. Spoke a French India ship, from L'Orient bound to Pondicherry, reckond himself in Longitude 26°50' W. of Paris. Caught a large Albacore. Wind ESE. pleasent weather. [3] . . .
5729
573030.
5731
5732
5733
5734S. Latt. 7°24' W. Long. 30°16' Azi. 4°51' W. Fresh gales. Caught an Albacore that weigh'd 130 lb. Spoke a Portuguese ship from Lisbon bound to Rio Janeiro. . . .
5735
5736December 3.
5737
5738
5739
5740S. Latt. 13°30' W. Long. 32°26' Azi. 1°40' W. á». This day lost the SE General winds and immediately took itt at NE. This Northly wind is no doubt the Monsoon prevailing at this season along the Brazill coast. Pleasent weather. . . .
5741
574211.
5743
5744
5745
5746S. Latt. 25°0' W. Long. 38°44' á». This day a heavy squall struck the ship carried away the Top gall[an]t masts and yards Topsail yards, and fore, and Mizen, topmasts, lost the top Gall[an]t sails and damaged the topsails. . . .
5747
574831.
5749
5750
5751
5752S. Latt. 42°46' W. Long. 53°45' Azi. 17°54' E. Fresh gales. Caught 16 Albatross's, with a hook and line from the stern, hook'd them in the bill Ships crew are all in health.
5753
5754So ends the year 1790. [4] . . .
5755
5756Made the Brazil Coast or Patigonia
5757
57581791. January 17.
5759
5760
5761
5762S. Latt. 46°48' W. Long. 66°58'. Fresh gales, under double reef'd topsails, with a high sea. At Noon 35 f[atho]m Mud. wind NE. Saw the land to the Westward of Cape Blanco on the Coast of Patigonia, bearing from SSE to SW. Very squally, haul'd our wind to the Eastward. find the ship embayed with the wind, on shore. Stood on within 2 miles of the beach, and cou'd not
5763
5764-- 366 --
5765weather the land on our larboard tack, we where under the nessescity of wearing ship to the Westward, at this time had 12 f[atho]m grey sand. Our situation was very Critical, as we cannot weather the land on either tack, bent Cables, and overhaul'd a range of each of them, pass'd sevrall times over very shoal water but did not sound, for fear of intimidating the Crew. Ship'd many seas, one of which stove the Binnacle and broke the Compasses. Wore ship sevrall times as the wind favour'd. This land appear'd levell, without much wood and very high grass growing. saw sevrall smokes, but none of the Natives. The shore was lined with white sand banks. fortunately at midnight the wind moderated, and haul'd more of shore. Haul'd off into 20 f[atho]m and stood along shore: given the Cape a good birth.
5766
576718.
5768
5769
5770
5771S. Latt. 47°9' W. Long. 66°38' Azi. 21°36' E. Saw Breakers a head haul'd to the Eastd. Cape Blanco bore S. 65° W., 4 leagues. Sounded and had but 5 f[atho]m water; deepened gradually, in 25 f[atho]m Pebble or Gravall stones. this shoal was not laid down in the Drafts. I judge itt to be very small. [5]
5772
5773At the Falkland Islands
5774
577519.
5776
5777
5778
5779S. Latt. 48°37' W. Long. 66°8'. Winds from the SW. 56 f[atho]m water, weather pleasent, but cold. many Albatross and large scholes of Whales.
5780
578122.
5782
5783
5784
5785S. Latt. 51°53' W. Long. 64°5' á». Wind at NW and squally, Made the Islands of Sebald-De Wert, 840 (or Jasons Islands) which lye off the NW part of the Group call'd Falkland. Vast many birds and seals round, Made sail to the Southd. for States bay, in New Island (one of the Falkland). At 6 AM saw Cape Percivall, S b E 10 leagues. Fresh gales. At Meridian anchor'd, in New Island harbour, Mud and sand in 5 f[atho]m. Remain'd in this Harbour, 11 Days during which time we give the ship a complete overhaul, We had the winds generally from the westward, and sometimes blew so strong that we drag'd with 5 anchors a head. A tent was erected on shore, for the Tradesmen. found the watering place, very handy, and the water excellent, The ship's crew on our arrivall was all in
5786
5787-- 367 --
5788health. Still no doubt, by being frequently indulg'd on shore, was of great service to them The weather generally was very Cool. During our stay at these Island we shot upwards of 1000 Ducks and Geese, and 6 Hogs (which was evidently of the Spanish breed). The fowl was quite tame when we first arriv'd, but they soon was taught the doctrine of self-preservation the swine was very wild.
5789
5790The face of the Country does not present a very delightfull prospect, extensive heaths, mountains, and ponds of water are to be seen all over the Island there is not a tree upon itt, but the grass is 3 feet high in most places. The turf generally of the height of 6 foot, between which the Hogs and Penguins have their habitations. The soil appear'd to me to be proper for the reception of such seeds as contribute towards the substenance of inhabitants, The wild Cellery, which is an excellent antiscorbutic, grows here in abundance.
5791
5792I think these Islands are most proper to touch att, when bound round Cape Horn in preference to those in Straits La Maire 841 as the water is handy, and you may keep your People on Geese and Ducks while you remain. [6]
5793
5794In the Pacific Ocean after passing Staten Land and Cape Horn
5795
5796February 3.
5797
5798
5799
5800S. Latt. 51°47' W. Long. 66°10' Ampd. 25°7' E. Wind from the Southward, and pleasent weather, Left the Falkland Isles last evening. This day spoke the Ship Bedford, Laben Coffin, Master, from Dunkirk (in France) bound to the Pacific Ocean on a whaling voyage Took a departure from Cape Percivall at 6 PM, it being the westward extreme of the Falkland, lying in Latt. 51°50' South, and Longitude 66° West of London. Light airs and a swell from the Southward. Vast many marine birds flying round.
5801
58025.
5803
5804
5805
5806S. Latt. 53°54' W. Long. 69°36' Ampd. 25°1' E. Moderate breezes and pleasent. Saw Staten Land 842 bearing South 14 leagues dist[ant], a Current setting to the Eastward.
5807
58086.
5809
5810
5811
5812S. Latt. 54°52' W. Long. 68°1' Ampd. 25°16' E. Winds light and from the Westward, a Constant Current, setting to the Eastward.
5813
5814-- 368 --
5815Staten Land in sight, bear[in]g WNW 20 leagues distant, very high and unequall land, with snow on the mountains. . . .
5816
581727.
5818
5819
5820
5821S. Latt. 54° 44' W. Long. 86° 24' Azi. 23° 52' E. Cape Horn is doubled, Winds light from the westd. with frequent calms. . . .
5822
5823March 21.
5824
5825
5826
5827S. Latt. 37° 43' W. Long. 88° 7' Azi. 14° 44' E. Very pleasent weather. Some of the Crew have the Scurvy in the Gums. [7] . . .
5828
5829Passage from Cape Horn to the NW Coast
5830
5831April 11.
5832
5833
5834
5835S. Latt. 18° 50' W. Long. 100° 29' Ampd. 9° 12' E. Small winds. Wind at ESE. Ship's Crew is many of them complaining.
5836
583712.
5838
5839
5840
5841S. Latt. 17° 57' W. Long. 101° 24' Azi. 9° 16' E. A little Scurvy among the Crew. . . .
5842
584323.
5844
5845
5846
5847S. Latt. 4° 37' W. Long. 114° 39' á». Between the hours of 3 and 4 PM Departed this life our dear freind Nancy the Goat having been the Captains companion on a former voyage round the Globe but her spirited disposition for adventure led her to undertake a 2d voyage of Circumnavigation; But the various changes of Climate, and sudden transition from the Polar Colds to the tropical heats of the Torrid Zone, prov'd too much for a constitution naturally delicate, At 5 PM Committed her body to the deep She was lamented by those who got a share of her Milk!! Men of War Birds and Porpoises round. . . .
5848
584929.
5850
5851
5852
5853S. Latt. 0° 5' W. Long. 119° 13' Azi. and Ampd. 5° 18' E. * Gentle trades at ESE and pleasent. Four seamen laid by, with the Scurvey. their Mouths and Legs are very bad. . . .
5854
5855May 15.
5856
5857
5858
5859N. Latt. 23° 9' W. Long. 132° 33' Azi. 9° 47' E. Steady trade winds and very pleasent. Scurvy making progress. [8] . . .
5860
5861At Anchor in Cox's Harbour or Clioquot on the NW Coast
5862
586319.
5864
5865
5866
5867N. Latt. 27° 38' W. Long. 134° 15' Azi. 10° 41'. Fresh trade winds. 7 Men off duty with the scurvy their Gums is quite numb, (the worst of Complaints!!).
5868
586924.
5870
5871
5872
5873N. Latt. 34° 9' W. Long. 135° 33' Ampd. 12° 20' E. This day lost the NE Trades, and immediately took the wind from the westward.
5874
5875-- 369 --
587631.
5877
5878
5879
5880N. Latt. 46° 47' W. Long. 125° 50' Azi. 17° 20' E. Have had generally fresh breezes and cool weather since 24th with the winds generally from SW. many birds round, among the rest some that look'd like Plovers. 6 People extreme bad with the scurvey.
5881
5882June 4.
5883
5884
5885
5886N. Latt. 49° 10' W. Long. 120° 21'. This day made the land, on the NW Coast of the American Continent between Nootka, (or King Georges sound) and Clioquot (or Coxes harbour). for these sevrall days past we had seen whales, Drift Wood, feathers, kelp, etc. All signs of its vicinity. Breakers p[oin]t bore NE b E 8 leagues, high land back, and snow perceivable on some of the mountains. wind from Southward.
5887
58885.
5889
5890
5891
5892N. Latt. 49° 5' Correct W. Long. 125° 26' á». This day anchor in Coxes harbour and found itt very commodious. this Harbour is made remarkable by three remarkable round Hills, 843 abrest its entrance. Hannah, Cheif of the village Ahhousett, came on board and appear'd freindly; Above 300 of the Natives was along side in the Course of the day, Their canoes was made from the body of a tree, with stem and stern peices, neatly fixd on. Their models was not unlike our Nantucket whale boats, the dress of these Indians was either the Skin of some animal, or else a Blankett of their own manufactory, made of some Kind of Hair. This garment was slung over the right shoulder, They all appear'd very freindly, brought us plenty of fish and Greens. We tarry'd in this harbour till the 16th June, landed the sick immediately on our arrivall and pitch'd a tent for their reception, and although there was ten of them in the last stage of the Scurvy, still they soon recover'd, upon smelling the turf, and eating Greens of various kinds. [9]
5893
5894We buried sevrall of our sick, up to the Hips in the earth, and let them remain for hours in that situation found this method of great service. The principall village in this harbour is call'd Opitsatah, and is govern'd by Wickananish, a warlike Cheif. He and his family visited us often. The Indians brought sevrall Deer, and plenty of Rock Cod, Salmon, and other fish. Wild parsley, and a root call'd Isau or Isop 844 by the natives and much resembling a small onion, was
5895
5896-- 370 --
5897brought us in abundance. We purchas'd many of the Sea Otter skins in exchange for Copper and blue Cloth. These Indians are of a large size, and somewhat Corpulent. The Men wear no other covering, but the garment before mentioned, and seem to have no sense of shame, as they appear in a state of Nature. The Women stand in great fear of the Males, 845 but appear to be naturally very modest, their garment is manufactor'd from the bark of a Tree, and is well executed, being so constructed as to cover them complete from the Neck to the Ancle. both Male and Female wear Hats of a conicle form made out of strong reeds. 846 on them is painted, (in a rude manner) their mode of Whale fishery. Attoo, the Captain's servant (and a native of the sandwich Isle) ran away among the Indians, A cheif coming on board, placed a guard over him, and sent his Canoe back to the village with the News. they soon return'd with Mr. Attoo, and ransom'd their Cheif.
5898
589917.
5900
5901
5902
5903This day weigh'd the anchors and left Coxe's harbour. Fine weather wind at SW. All hands once again on duty, make the people use Spruce Tea, 847 boil'd from the Boughs we took on board for that purpose and although not very palatable, I beleive is an excellent Antiscorbutic bound along shore to the North and West. Saw Woody point bear[in]g ESE 3 or 4 leagues.
5904
5905At Anchor in Columbia's Cove and Juan de Fuca Straits
5906
590720.
5908
5909
5910
5911N. Latt. 50° 6' W. Long. 128° 12'. Moderate breezes. At 8 PM abrest Woody point lay'd off and on through the night. At day-light made sail for Chickleset sound. out Pinnace and sent her ahead of the ship to C. sound. [10] At 8 AM abrest the entrance of the sound. Hove too. At 10 the pinnace made the signall for an harbour bore away, wind at NW. At Meridian anchor'd in a small
5912
5913-- 371 --
5914Cove, (which we named Columbias). In this situation we was comletly land lock'd, vast many natives alongside, They appear'd much the same as those at Coxes harbour and talk'd their language. We laid in this harbour till the 26th During which time, got many Sea Otter and Land furs from the Natives in exchange for Copper, Iron and Cloth, (with Beads, fish Hooks and such small stuff Kept the Ship supplied with various kinds of fish and Greens, with a few deer). These Natives was generally arm'd with Bows, arrows, and spears. like those at Clioquot they wou'd pilfer whenever an opportunity offer'd, their Woman where more Chaste than those we had lately left. But still they where not all Dianas During our tarry here I visited one of the villages in the sound found the Natives busily employ'd building Canoes and packing provisions against the ensuing Winter, they treated me quite friendly. They dry their fish in the Sun, and then pack itt in Neat wooden boxes. 848 Nessescity is the mother of invention.
5915
591626.
5917
5918
5919
5920This day left Columbia's Cove, and stood along shore towards the Straits of Juan De Fuca. Crew all well steer[in]g to the South and Eastd. This is an Iron bound Coast with high land back.
5921
592227.
5923
5924
5925
5926This day pass'd Clioquot, with a fine breeze from WNW and pleasent.
5927
592828.
5929
5930
5931
5932N. Latt. 48° 42' W. Long. 124° 0'. Enter'd the Straits of Juan De Fuca and Hove too abrest the Village of Nittenatt found strong tides. Vast many Natives off with Sea Otter, and other Furs which we purchas'd with the same articles as before. 'Twas evident that these Natives had been visited by that scourge of mankind the Smallpox. 849 The Spaniards as the natives say brought it among them these Indians appear'd Friendly. [11]
5933
5934N. Latt. 48° 23' W. Long. 124° 0'
5935
5936
5937. Kept beating about the entrance of De fuca Straits till 3d July, on S. East part (off a small Isle) call'd Tatooch we Collected many Otters, These natives gave the preference to Copper. Fine Halibut and Salmon was procured
5938-- 372 --
5939in aboundance. Nails, Beads etc. serv'd for this traffic. This Cheif at Tatooch's Isle offer'd to sell us some young Children they had taken in War. 850
5940
5941July 3.
5942
5943
5944
5945N. Latt. 49° 1' W. Long. 126° 20'. Left the Straits. at 6 PM Cape Flattery (so named by Capt. Cook) bore SE b E 8 leagues. Standing along shore to the Westward. wind from the Eastd.
5946
59474.
5948
5949
5950
5951Took the wind from the Westward employ'd beating to windward the land about 12 leagues. Many Whales.
5952
5953At Anchor in Barrell's Sound, in Queen Charlotte Isles
5954
59558.
5956
5957
5958
5959N. Latt. 52° 10' W. Long. 131° 12'. This day anchor'd in Barrells sound on the SE part of the Queen Charlotte Isles 20 fathom rockey bottom. sent the Pinnace, with an officer, to seek better anchorage which was soon found, Got under way and stood up sound, and anchor'd in 15 fathom muddy bottom. A Cheif by name Coyac 851 came along side with plenty of other Indians The Natives here are much stouter than any we had before seen, and appear to be very savage. The Men go quite naked, except a skin over the shoulder. the Women are entirely cover'd with Garments of their own manufactory, from the bark of Tree. 852 They appear to carry full sway over the men and have an incision cut through the under lip, which they spread out with a peice of wood about the size and shape of a Goose egg (some much larger). itt's considered as an ornament, but in my opinion looks very gastly. Some of them booms out two inches from the chin, 853 The women appear very fond of their ofspring, and the Men of both. We remain'd in this sound till the 17th During which time we purchas'd a good lot of Sea Otter and other furs, cheifly for Iron and Cloth. Copper was not in demand. [12]
5960
5961The boats were sent frequently after wood and water, but where always well arm'd. The Natives supplied us with plenty of Halibut and Rock Cod, for which we p[ai]d them in Nails. Wild fowl was
5962
5963-- 373 --
5964plenty in this sound of which we Caught and Kill'd many. I landed at one of their villages, found the Indians comfortably lodg'd, and kept large fires, although the weather was temperate, when I went into one of their houses, they was eating roast muscles and singing a warlike Song. They appear'd fond of our visit and never offer'd to molest any thing in the boat, Their Canoes are not made near so neat as those we had seen before, but I think was more commodious.
5965
5966The females was not very Chaste, but their lip peices was enough to disgust any Civilized being, however some of the Crew was quite partial.
5967
5968In the Straits of Admiral Defont 854
5969
597017.
5971
5972
5973
5974Weigh'd and left Barrells sound bound to the Straits of Admiral De Font, which is form'd by the Charlotte Isles and the Main.
5975
597618.
5977
5978
5979
5980N. Latt. 51° 34'. Wind from Westward and pleasent, beating too and fro of the South p[oin]t of Charlotte Isles, endeavouring to get into the Straits.
5981
598223.
5983
5984
5985
5986N. Latt. 52° 26' W. Long. 131° 30' Azi. 20° 22' E. Spoke The Brig Hope Joseph Ingrahim master from Boston, on the same business with ourselves. soon parted.
5987
598824.
5989
5990
5991
5992N. Latt. 53° 6'. A small Isle, in the Straits bore North at Meridian, which we named Hatches. weather is generally clear, so that the Isles and Main are distinctly seen together. found ground at 120 f[atho]m The Natives wou'd often come along side from the Main, or Isles, as we border'd on either shore, and brought furs and plenty of Halibut, which you cou'd buy for a board Nail apeice.
5993
599428.
5995
5996
5997
5998N. Latt. 53° 14' W. Long. 132° 0' Azi. 21° 35' E. Ship over towards the Main. sent an officer 855 in the pinnace in search of anchorage. found the land hereabouts low and barren near the shore, but rises back into high mountains. find excessive strong Currents
5999
6000-- 374 --
6001in these Straits. The Natives on the Main speak a language different 856 from those on the Islands. Boat return'd without success. [13]
6002
600330.
6004
6005
6006
6007N. Latt. 52° 47' W. Long. 131° á». Fresh gales and stormy weather. At Meridian Charlotte Isles extended from S b W to W b N 8 or 10 leagues. Some Canoes full of Indians boarded us from the Isles. They inform'd us that sevrall English vessels 857 had visited not long since. we purchased a Good Lot of furs, cheifly for Iron and Cloth.
6008
600931.
6010
6011
6012
6013Stood towards the Islands and anchor'd in 24 f[atho]m with a Kedge. Light wind from NW A Cheif (by name Cumswah) 858 brought us sevrall fine Sea Otter skins.
6014
6015August 1.
6016
6017
6018
6019Wind from SE. Standing along the Queen Charlotte Isles through De Font straits about 3 or 4 leagues from land. soundings generally from 15 to 25 f[atho]m mud. The main land in sight to the North and Westd. at a great distance. 859
6020
60212.
6022
6023
6024
6025Fresh gales and very thick weather. narrowly escap'd runing on a reef of Rocks, quite foggy cou'd see the land but seldom, beating too and fro. Wind from the Eastward.
6026
60273.
6028
6029
6030
6031N. Latt. 54° 43' W. Long. 132° 23'. Heavy gales from SE and thick weather, found the Ship embay'd, 860 employ'd making short hanks. At length we being too nigh the shore for to Keep off, through the night, we was alarm'd with all the horrors of a lee shore. a small opening appearing in the land to leeward, hove out the pinnace and sent an officer to examine for anchorage, At 6 in the evening she made a single for a Harbour. Bore away and anchored under a point of land, in 17 f[atho]m sandy bottom let go three Anchors, it being a wild road stead. We remain'd in this station, which we call'd Port Tempest till the 8th and only four Indians made their appearance,
6032
6033-- 375 --
6034and I beleive there was no villages 861 in the vicinity. Made sevrall excursions with boats, and procur'd many salmon and plenty of Berries. In one of these excursions I discover'd a small rivulet, 862 not deep enough to admit the boat. In itt we caught upwards of 100 fine salmon, cheifly with the boat hook and grainz, and shot a deer upon the banks. Crew all in health.
6035
60368.
6037
6038
6039
6040Got under way and left Port Tempest, (situated on the main land of America) 863 stood over for land in sight to the Northd. and westward, and as we approach'd itt sevrall Canoes came off with furs and Halibut. [14]
6041
604210.
6043
6044
6045
6046N. Latt. 55° 0' W. Long. 133° 0'. Light winds and pleasent, standing to the NW and 6 PM came too with the Kedge 28 f[atho]m, Port Tempest bear[in]g NE b N 12 leagues. The Natives brought us plenty of fine Otter furs. Their Canoes are the same as at Charlotte Isles, some of them capable of Carrying 30 men, they go well arm'd with Bows, Arrows and spears and appear to be a savage race. I went in the Cutter, well arm'd, to a small cove, not far distant from the Ship and soon Caught 9 large Halibutt. The Ship was conceal'd by a point of land, making out from the NE part of the Cove.
6047
604812.
6049
6050
6051
6052Still laying at anchor in same situation as on the 10th, the nearest land not above ½ mile distant, and the point of the Cove I was fishing in on 10 inst. about ¼ mile. Mr. Caswell, this morning, took a Boatswain Mate and one Seamen with him in the Jolly Boat, by the permission of Capt. Gray, and went to the Cove a fishing A breeze springing up soon after, and wishing to leave this place, a six pounder was fir'd, a Signal for the boat to return. She not appearing, soon after two more Cannon was fir'd. Got the Ship under way and stood off and on, and sent the pinnace under charge of the 4th officer 864 in search of the small boat. Soon after, we see the
6053
6054-- 376 --
6055Pinnace returning with the Jolly Boat in tow, without any person in her and soon discover'd they had the Boats Colours hoisted half mast, with this melancholy token they approach'd the Ship, when we soon discover'd our worthy freind, and brother officer, (Mr. Joshua Caswell 2d) lay dead in the bottom of the boat, strip'd perfectly naked and stab'd in upwards of twenty places. They saw nothing of John Folger (the boatswains mate) but Joseph Barnes (the Sailor) lay dead on the beach, and quite naked. fearing the Natives lay in ambush, they did not land to take of the Corps. It is probable they where beset upon by a great superiority of natives, promp[t]ed by a desire to possess their cloaths and Arms. As soon as the boats return'd made sail for Port Tempest, and anchor'd in the evening at our former station. In Mr. Caswell I lost a firm and steady freind, he was a man of mild and gentle temper, a Complete Seamen, and in short was possest of every qualification that bespoke the gentleman. Observ'd that the day previous to this disastrous affair few Indians had visited the Ship. [15]
6056
6057NW End of Charlotte Isle 865
6058
605913.
6060
6061
6062
6063N. Latt. 54° 43' W. Long. 132° 23'. 866 Calm, and temperate weather. At 8 In the morning, the 4th Officer was dispatch'd with a party well arm'd in the Pinnace, for to dig a grave for our worthy freind. At 9 The pinnace return'd. At 10 Left the Ship with three boats, under charge of Mr. Hazwell, 1st Officer, with the Corps the Ship firing minute guns. At 11 Capt. Gray landed in a small boat, and after performing divine service, we inter'd the remains of our departed, and much beloved, freind, with all the solemnity we was capable off.
6064
6065The place was gloomy, and nothing was to be heard but the bustling of an aged oak whose lofty branches hung wavering o'er the grave, together with the meandering brook, the Cries of the Eagle,
6066
6067-- 377 --
6068and the weeping of his freinds added solemnity to the scene. So ends.
6069
607015.
6071
6072
6073
6074Weighed, and Left Port Tempest Wind at NW At Sunsett it bore N b W 6 leagues, and (Massacree Cove) West 5 Miles. saw none of the Natives. No doubt the Rascles wou'd have destroy'd the Jolly boat after they had massacred our unfortunate countrymen, had not the Ship's Guns alarm'd them. Standing to the South and E.
6075
607616.
6077
6078
6079
6080This day Spoke the Brig Hancock of Boston, Samuell Crowell, Master. They was on the same business as ourselves, and had been pretty successfull. 867 Capt. Crowell inform'd that his Longboat was cruizing among the Charlotte Isles under charge of his 2nd Officer. 868 the Brig kept us company.
6081
608218.
6083
6084
6085
6086Pleasent weather. Came to Anchor, in a River which Capt. Crowell had named (Hancocks) situated on the NW part of the Queen Charlotte Isles, in Company with the Brig, 6 f[atho]m water mud. The Brig's Longboat we found at this place, vast many of the Natives along side the Ship, and a few furs was purchased Capt. Crowell had, upon some trifling offence, fir'd upon these Indians by which a number of them fell (such wanton cruelty throws him upon a levell with the savage), and perhaps this same fray was the means of our losing our worthy 2nd Officer as the places are not 20 leagues distant and mayhap they reck'd their Vengeance 869 upon us, thinking us all of one tribe. If it was so, bad luck to Crowell. Amen. [16]
6087
6088At Anchor in Clioquot Harbor
6089
609019.
6091
6092
6093
6094N. Latt. 54° 12' W. Long. 132° 25'. Fine weather. the Hancock sail'd on a Cruize. 870 The land about this River is the best without exception I've yet seen, on the NW Coast, and a place well calculated for a Factory for to reap the advantages of the fur trade the
6095
6096-- 378 --
6097Natives, I dare say, have always plenty of Otters, and there is fish in abundance. Hove up, 871 and came to sail towards evening and stood to sea light winds and very strong tides. At Sunsett Murderers Cape bore NNW at a great distance.
6098
609920.
6100
6101
6102
6103N. Latt. 53° 49' W. Long. 133° 24'. Soundings from 7 to 12 f[atho]m, shoal water about these parts of Charlotte Isles. Standing to the Southward through Defont Straits, runing along the Isles in from 15 to 30 f[atho]m according to dis[tance] of shore. these Charlotte Isles are from the Latt. 51° 55' to 54° 24' N. and from Longitude 131° 0' to 133° W.
6104
610522.
6106
6107
6108
6109N. Latt. 53° 2' W. Long. 131° 31' Ampd. 20° 2' E. á». Many of Indians of this day from Cumswah village, in Charlot Isles, brought a few skins, but I think they are pretty well drain'd 872 Came too, with the Kedge in 20 f[atho]m about 2 miles from shore. soon after see a Boat rowing towards us, and heard a Cannon fir'd in the sound. At 3 PM Mr. Cruft, 873 1st Officer of the American Brig Hope (which we had spoke with before) came along side, with Capt. Ingrahim's compliments, and offer'd to be the bearer of Letters, as he was shortly bound for Canton. we readily embraced the opportunity; At dark Mr. Cruft left us. Up Kedge and bore away to the southward and Eastd.
6110
611123.
6112
6113
6114
6115N. Latt. 52° 37' W. Long. 130° 22'. The SE part of Charlotte Isles bore SE½E 12 leagues light winds and variable. a Canoe boarded us at this great distance, and brought many prime furs.
6116
611728.
6118
6119
6120
6121N. Latt. 49° 20' W. Long. 127° 16'. At Noon this day, Nootka (or King Georges sound) bore ENE 10 leagues. Since the 23d we have never lost sight of the Continent. 'Tis very high land. saw whales.
6122
6123-- 379 --
612429.
6125
6126
6127
6128N. Latt. 49° 5' W. Long. 126° 0'. At Noon the entrance of Clioquot (or Coxes harbour) bore NE 4 leagues. Standing in for the harbour, and towards evening anchor'd in our former station. vast many of the Natives along side, and seem'd glad to see us again. found riding here the Brig Lady Washington, of Boston, John Kendrick master, he had made up his Voyage and was bound for Canton. He appear'd happy in meeting with his old freinds. [17]
6129
6130N. Latt. 49° 9' W. Long. 125° Ỡ*. Captain Kendrick inform'd us that he had had a skirmish with the Natives at Barrells sound (in Queen Charlotte Isles) and was oblidg'd to kill upwards of 50 of them before they wou'd desist from the attack. It appear'd to me from what I cou'd collect that the Indians was the aggressors. 874 This Brig Lady Washington was a Sloop when she left Boston, but Capt. Kendrick had alterd her rig in Canton the year before. I was sorry to find that Kendrick had made no remittances to the owners, since he had parted with the Columbia the first voyage, although since that period he had made two successfull trips 875 from this Coast to Canton. As the Vessells still belong'd to the same owners he was under some mistrust that Capt. Gray was empower'd to seize the Brig, 876 and kept himself always ready against attack. 877 We taried in this harbour till the 8th Sept. during which time Collected many Sea Otter and other furs, and fish in abundance these Natives miss'd Mr. Caswell, and it was thought proper to inform them that he had died (a natural death).
6131
6132September 8.
6133
6134
6135
6136Weighed and beat out of the harbour wind at SW. At Noon Clioquot bore NW 6 leagues standing towards Juan Defuca straits.
6137
6138-- 380 --
6139In the Straits of Juan de Fuca
6140
614111.
6142
6143
6144
6145N. Latt. 48° 15' W. Long. 124° 30'. This day abrest Cape Flattery, on the SE part of De Fuca entrance, vast many of the Natives along. Purchas'd many Otters These Indians told us, there was five sail of Spaniards up the straits. 878 At Midnight saw Tatooch Isle, bear[in]g NNE 3 miles. We thought ourselves further of shore. Almost calm, and an excessive strong tide sweeping us between some Ledges and the Isle. At daylight thick fog, saw the Rocks a head within pistol shot, with high breakers. Out all Boats, and just towed the Ship clear. our situation was truly alarming, but we had no business so near the land in thick weather. However Good Luck prevail'd, and a breeze springing up from offshore we stretch'd out clear in Boats. Foggy disagreeable weather. Cou'd observe at intervalls that the woods where on fire. [18]
6146
614712.
6148
6149
6150
6151Wind NE. Heard the roaring of Breakers, foggy haul'd more ofshore. At 3 PM saw a rock about stone's throw distant, and narrowly excaped being dash'd upon itt. damn nonsense to keep beating about among rocks in foggy weather. At Midnight heard the surf roar again, which I suppose to be on the North side of the Straits, sounded and found ground at 25 f[atho]m Rocks. The Captain, at length, was frightned, 879 and proceeded with the Ship to a good offing (this ought to have been done long before) thick foggy weather, with a moderate breeze.
6152
615316.
6154
6155
6156
6157N. Latt. 48° 14' W. Long. 124° 30' *. Fog clear'd off, saw Cape Flattery bear[in]g NNE 2 leagues, very strong tides. At Noon we where about 2 miles from Tatooch Isle. Came too with the Kedge, sandy bottom the Island bearing North. I think it possible there is a passage between Cape Flattery and this Isle of Tatooch. it appears about 2 miles wide, however cou'd see breakers between them, and currents are excessive strong, as we cou'd discern them to foam in that narrow pass. Many Natives came off, and we purchas'd
6158
6159-- 381 --
6160a few skins and plenty Halibut. Weigh'd and came to sail towards evening, bound to Clioquot.
6161
6162At Anchor in Clioquot Harbour
6163
616418.
6165
6166
6167
6168N. Latt. 49° 9' W. Long. 125° 26'. This day anchor'd in our Old Station 880 in Clioquot harbour. found the Brig Lady Washington still riding here. At this Harbour Captain Gray had determin'd to Winter, if he cou'd find a suitable place for to build a Sloop of 45 Tons, for to assist in collecting furs on the next season. The stem and stern post, with part of the floor timbers had been brought from Boston for this purpose.
6169
617019.
6171
6172
6173
6174On the 19th Capt. Gray went with two boats up sound, for to seek a convenient cove. In the evening the Captain return'd, having found a place to his mind, about 4 leagues 881 from where the Ship lay.
6175
6176Winter Quarters, Latt. 49° 9' N., Long. 125° 30' W.
6177
617820.
6179
6180
6181
6182On the 20th weigh'd, with light airs, and with the Boats ahead, assisted by the Brig's Crew, we tow'd, and sail'd into (winter quarters) which we call'd Adventure Cove, and moor'd Ship for the winter. Vast many of the Natives along side, and appear'd to be highly pleas'd with the Idea of our tarrying among them through the Cold Season. [19]
6183
6184The Columbia lay moor'd in this Cove till the 25th of March 1792. I shall endeavour to give the heads of our proceedings during that period.
6185
6186Adventure Cove was situated in about the Latitude of 49° 15' N. and Longitude 125° 30' W. of London, about 17 miles from the Ocean. this Cove was form'd by an Isle and the SE shore Clioquot sound, so small that when the Ship was moor'd, you might throw a Stone upon the beach in any direction. the passages in was not to exceed 100 feet, so that we was in a complete bason. (At 25th inst. Capt. Kendrick sail'd for Canton.) The Adventure was set up at the back of a fine beach, the woods being previously clear'd. a Log
6187
6188-- 382 --
6189House 882 was erected near, mounted with two Cannon, with Loop holes for Musketry. Here Capt. Haswell, with a party of Seamen, and all the Mechanics was station'd. Near itt, the Blacksmiths and Boat builders Shops where placed, two Saw pitts was erected, and kept constantly at play, sawing planks, and was supplied with Logs from the sound by Boats constantly on that duty. So that Adventure Cove soon had the appearance of a young ship yard. Strip'd the Ship to a gritline, and kept a gang under the directions of the Boatswain upon the rigging.
6190
6191The Natives made us frequent visits, and brought a good supply of fish and some Sea Otter Skins, and by keeping a small boat down sound with 4 of our seamen we procured a constant supply of Wild Geese, Ducks and Teal. The Geese and Teal resembled those at home, but the Ducks where exactly of the same Species, with the tame of our Country. we see none of any other kind. now and then we shot a wild turkey. The Natives appear'd to be highly pleased with the different works going on at the Cove. they sometimes brought us Venison and supplied us with as many boards as we wanted. they was all caeder, and appear'd to have been split with wedges from the Log.
6192
6193October 7.
6194
6195
6196
6197An alarm was given by the Centry at the Block house, that there was Canoes in the Cove. finding they was discover'd they soon went off. 883
6198
619913.
6200
6201
6202
6203The frame of the Sloop was up Complete, and this day brought the Garboard streak of Plank to her bottom. this is what I call dispatch. Wickananish, high Cheif, came on board, with sevrall of the Royall family. he inform'd that his winter village 884 was a great way off, which occasion'd his visiting us so seldom. He went on Shore, and astonishment was conspicuous in his countenance at the work going on there. The [20] Natives was very much puzzled to know how we shou'd get the Sloop off when finish'd, as she was 75 foot back from high water mark. Wickananish is the most powerfull cheif we have yet seen on this Coast. His tribe consists of upwards of 3000 souls. they allow Polygamy, but the women are not prolific, as barrenness is very common among them. The Indians girls kept
6204
6205-- 383 --
6206us well supplied with Berries of different kinds, which was very grateful.
6207
620814.
6209
6210
6211
6212We was inform'd this day that Capt. Crowell in the Brig Hancock was at Juan de Fuca straits. 885
6213
621427.
6215
6216
6217
6218The Natives brought us some excellent salmon. experience much rain, which hinder the work. When the weather is too bad for to work on the Sloop, keep the Carpenters under Shelter making a boat for her. Heard of three Spanish Ships 886 being at Nootka. Keep always upon our guard against supprize as we are among a powerfull sett. The boat after Game. met with some Indians that was a little troubelsome, but by firing a musket over their heads they soon went off. These Indians was very enquisitive for to know the cause of thunder and lightning, but we cou'd not make them understand the real cause, but much suppriz'd them by saying there was a man in our Country that made both.
6219
6220They suppose thunder to be occasion'd by an Eagle carrying a Whale into the air, and Lightning, the hissing of a Snake, which are exceeding large in this country. One of our Seamen, being down sound a guning, saw one of these animals, which by his discription was as big round as his thigh. 887 being alone, and somewhat frightned, retir'd without firing. These Indians are very superstitious in regard to this Animal, for when they go on a whaling cruize, they always rub their face with a peice of it. We have never been able to gain much information as respects their Religion, but they certainly pay adoration to the Sun, and Moon, and beleive in Good and evil Spirits. they lash their dead on the trees, first stowing them in a box 3 or 4 feet long. The Head and Legs are cut Off to make good stowage, and little valuables that belong to the deseas'd are bury'd with them. Capt. Gray went to an Indian Village for to look at a Cheif, said to be very sick. on his arrivall he was rec[eive]d very cordially and conducted
6221
6222-- 384 --
6223to the sick mans house, which was full of people. In one Corner lay the Sick Cheif, and arround him (eight strong men), which kept pressing his stomach with their hands, and making a most hideous Bow-wowing, in the poor fellows ears. [21]
6224
6225December 22.
6226
6227
6228
6229Upon the Captains approach, he suppos'd the Cheif to be nearly dead, and order'd this band of Doctors to desist, 888 having made him some gruell to take. the Cheif soon came too a little, and order'd two Sea Otter skins as a present. After giving a Wine toast he order'd him to be left to sleep, and visited a number of Cheifs houses, the masters of which treated him with an attention not very common among savages. (he returned on board.) I made an excursion to this same Village not long after. As soon as I landed, Men, Women, and Children came down to the beach to receive me, but did not offer to molest the boat. found the sick Cheif much better, and releived from his pressing and noisy freinds. The house was large and commodious, and wou'd hold fifty Indians very comfortably, all round was packages of Fish in Boxes, and decorated with pearl shells; Their furniture consisted cheifly of matts, and wooden boxes, which last serves to boil their fish in, which they easily do by applying red hot stones, till it boils they neither scale or draw the fish, but as it comes from the water, so it goes into the box, to boil, or on the Coals to broil, there was sevrall fires about the house but there being no chimnies, the smoak was too mighty for my eyes. They sleep on boards, rais'd about a foot from the ground, and Covered with Matts, rolling themselves up with furs. Over the sick mans head, there was a board cut out in the shape of a heart, and stuck full of Otter's teeth, with a long spear on each side of him. His young wife did not appear to be affected at the sight of her sick husband, but the Father and Mother was watching their Son with the most parentall affection. After boiling him some rice and leaving more with his mother, I left the village and returned safe on board.
6230
623125.
6232
6233
6234
6235This day was kept in mirth and festivity by all the Columbia's Crew, and the principall Cheifs of the sound by invitation din'd on board ship. The Natives took a walk around the work shops on shore, they was suppriz'd at seeing three tier of wild fowl roasting at
6236
6237-- 385 --
6238one of the houses -- indeed we was a little supprized at the novelty of the sight ourselves, for at least there was 20 Geese roasting at one immense fire, and the Ships Crew [22] appear'd very happy, most of them being on shore. The Indians cou'd not understand why the Ship and houses was decorated with spruce bows. At 12 Clock fir'd a federall Salute, and ended the day toasting our sweethearts and wifes.
6239
62401792. January 1.
6241
6242
6243
6244This day being down sound, with the Jolly boat after game, I stop't at the village. Visited Yethlan the sick Cheif, and found him much better. the family treated me extremely well. I receiv'd many pressing invitations from the rest of the Cheifs for to visit their houses, and complied with most of them and was particularly pleased at visiting Wickananish's dwelling, who this day had given an entertainment 889 to all the warriors of his Villages, with many visiters from distant Villages. As soon as the King saw me I was call'd towards him and seated upon his right. This house was about 80 foot Long, and 40 broad, and about 12 feet high, with a flat roof. The King was elevated about two feet higher than the company, with a Canopy over his head, stuck full of animals teeth. the Company consisted of about 100 men, all considerably advanced in years. The Women belonging to the house was in an apartment by themselves, busily employ'd making their Bark Garment. the Machines for that purpose is not unlike the Looms with us. They are very neat and dexterous in this business. The entertainment (which consisted of Fish Spawn mixed with Berries and train Oil,) was served up in wooden Bowls handed by the lower Orders of males. I was invited strongly to partake, but the Smell was enough, therefore pleaded indisposition. After they had done, the remains was sent to the females. The King inform'd they was going to have a dance in the evening, and wish'd me for to stay. However I declin'd and return'd on board. this Village was 3 leagues 890 from Adventure Cove. Capt. Hannah, a Cheif of the village, Ahhousett, sometimes came to see his old freinds (as he call'd us). He resided 9 leagues from the Cove but was under the Jurisdiction of Wickananish.
6245
6246-- 386 --
62476.
6248
6249
6250
6251This day one of the Cheifs of Juan Defuca Straits came on board. He was upon a visit to Wickananish, and indeed had married his sister, inform'd us there was a Spanish Ship in the Straits, brought many furs. [23]
6252
625317.
6254
6255
6256
6257Began to caulk the Sloop Adventure's bottom, it being completely planked up. I this day made an excursion to the Village, having put myself under the care of Tatoochkasettle, one of the King's brothers, who conducted me in his Canoe. Upon my arrivall was treated as usuall very politely. I took up my residence at Tatoochkasettles house, who invited a large Company to sup with him. After supper finding I wish'd to visit some other familys he sent his servants with lighted torches for to conduct me. I return'd back about Midnight and found there was an excellent watch kept throughout the village, each one hooping at certain intervalls throughout the night My Indian freind had made me as comfortable a berth to sleep on as was in his power, but the House being full of smoak, and the Young Children very fractious, occasion'd my sleeping but little all night. In the morning early observ'd most of the Men bathing on the Beach On enquiring the cause, was inform'd that this day the King was going to give his Eldest son the name of Wickananish, and take another upon himself, upon which acc[oun]t, there was to be great rejoicings. about noon upwards of 100 men assembled upon the beach in front of the Village, with the King at their head. Their dress which was exactly uniform consisted of a Blankett, made fast round the Loins with a Girdle, and reach'd about half way down their thighs. their hair was turn'd up, and tyed with a thick bunch before, and decorated with feathers. Their faces was painted of different colours, and their bodies of a deep red. Beads and fibers of Bark where woulded round their Ancles and Knees, and at a distance they made a grand although savage appearance. They collected near the water at one end of the village in regular teirs about four deep, at each wing many women where placed with Copper Boxes, 891 in which was small Stones serving as part of the music. the prossession moved slowly along the front squatting on their hams, the others
6258
6259-- 387 --
6260standing erect, with three of the King's brothers upon their shoulders, who where dancing and runing from right to Left in that position while those under them was on the Continual move. The King kept in front, giving the word of Command. All their voices kept [24] perfect tune with the rattling of the boxes. The rest of the inhabitants where seated along the beach viewing the performance. When the[y] arrived opposite the King's house, they enter'd single file, and I followed to see the transactions within doors. about 30 of the principall Actors seated themselves in a Circle, and was presented with a peice of board and a small stick. this they used instead of a Drum. The whole Company then began to Dance and sing, and the Musicians joining made itt very pleasing. 892 But the Smell was too strong for my Organs. Therefore soon drew off. These Natives are mild and chearfull, with little of that savage appearance that Savages generally have. their Complexions is very light Copper, but they darken itt with Oil and Paint. The Hair is coarse, long and black. Tis a generall custom to eat their own Vermin, and they are so plenty that they will often make a decent repast. The Men are generally thick sett with flat noses and broad faces. The women are pretty. their eyes are rather small, and though they are not very quick and peircing, they give the countenance a frank, chearfull and pleasing cast. We understood from the Natives that they sometimes made Human sacrafices, and shocking to relate, that they eat the flesh of such poor victims. however I do not beleive that this Custom is very common and only happens on some very particular Occasion. A prisoner of War is the person selected for this savage feast.
6261
626218.
6263
6264
6265
6266This day sevrall cheifs came on board, one of which we found was busily employ'd talking with our Sandwich Island lad. Their conversation was soon put a stop too, and the Lad examin'd, but he denyd that the Cheif ask'd him any improper questions. These Natives, always behaving so freindly, 893 occasion'd us to place too much
6267
6268-- 388 --
6269confidence in them, and what a pity it is, that we cou'd not leave this port with that opinion of them which we had heretofore held; But alas! We find them to be still a savage tribe, and only waiting an opportunity for to Massacre the whole of us in cold blood. The Ship had been brought some days previous to this to a bluff point of Rocks, where she lay'd as to a wharf, not even touching the ground at low water the Cannon and all the stores was landed here, as we was about hauling on the beach to grave and pay the Bottom. [25]
6270
6271The situation of the Ship at this period was very favorable to their views, 894 and must have encouraged them with the hope of destroying the whole of us, without the loss of a man on their side. However in this they wou'd have been mistaken as we kept a strong watch, under the conduct of an Officer and was always guarded against supprize. But shou'd we have been over pow'd by numbers, our friends perhaps never wou'd have known our sad fate.
6272
6273But fortunately, in the evening, the Sandwich Island lad made a Confession to his Master, (as follows). 895 He said Tatoochkasettle, (the Cheif) told him, that Wickananish was about to take the Ship and Massacree all the Crew, and said he shou'd be a great man, if he wou'd wet our Musketts, and steal for him some Bulletts. He said they shou'd come that night or the next, and told him to come over to them when the fray first began. This news alarm'd the Ships Company exceedingly, and we immediately got in readiness to receive them. Capt. Gray call'd his officers together for to consult what was best to be done, and we was unanimously of opinion, that 'twas best to haul the Ship on the ways, and Grave her, as the tide then suited, and we cou'd retreat in safety to the Block House, shou'd the Natives appear, (where we had sevrall Cannon mounted and good quarters). this plan was immediatly put in execution, leaving a strong guard on the point for to guard the Stores with nessescary signals shou'd they want releif. By midnight one side of the Ship was finish'd, when we heard a most hideous hooping of Indians, and at ev'ry shout they seem'd to come nearer, every man immediately took his arms, and
6274
6275-- 389 --
6276stood ready both on board ship and at the Log house, they kept hooping about one hour, when they ceas'd and 'tis probable retreated, lamenting their hard luck that the Cruell plan was so completely frustrated. The guard at the point saw many large Canoes off the entrance of the Cove, but like brave fellows, they scorn'd to quit the Station. In the morning tide we finish'd the Ship and haul'd again to the point, and in the Course of the Day took on board all the stores and Cannon, and moor'd off in the Cove in our old berth. Scal'd the Guns, which made all rattle again, and I beleive never was more work done in so short a time. But Men determin'd can do most any thing. [26]
6277
6278It does not appear that Wickananish wish'd to conquer a part of us, as he had frequent opportunitys to have accomplish'd itt for two or three times a week a boat was down at the Village, generally with an officer and four sailors, but I suppose he very prudently thought that shou'd he cut a boats Crew off, there was still enough left for to destroy his Villages. The Cheifs had been telling us for some time that they was going to war with a distant tribe and wish'd for us to lend them Musketts and Ammunition, which some of these fellows used as well as ourselves. We had observed of late that they did not seem so cheerfull as common, but seem'd to be deeply wrapt in thought. After this no more of the Natives visited Adventure Cove except some old women and a young girls, who brought us berries and fish, and most probable they was sent as Spies.
6279
6280March 4.
6281
6282
6283
6284This day the Ship was completely rig'd, Hold stowed, and in every respect in readiness for sea. She look'd like a fiddle! The Kings Mother came along side and brought some Otter Skins which we purchas'd. She told Captain Gray that the Moon inform'd her Son if he come to the Ship, he wou'd be kill'd.
6285
628621.
6287
6288
6289
6290This day departed this life, after a lingering sickness, Benj. Harding (Boatswain), he was a smart, active, and steady man, and one that know'd, and did his duty in every respect, deposited his remains next morning near to the Block house, after performing divine Service. promoted a Seaman to his place.
6291
629222.
6293
6294
6295
6296Launch'd the Sloop Adventure. 896 She went off admirably. took
6297
6298-- 390 --
6299a Hawser and got her along side the Ship, and soon had her rig'd.
6300
630124.
6302
6303
6304
6305The Sloop Adventure is ready for sea. 897 Capt. Haswell, 1st mate of ship, went on board and took charge, taking with him Mr. Waters (4th mate) and a Crew of ten Seamen and tradesmen. I think she was one of the prettiest vessels I ever saw, of about 45 Tons, with a handsome figure head and false badges, and other ways touch'd off in high stile. Ther was not a Butt either in the Planks on deck or sides, and the plank not above nine inches wide. She was victuall'd for a four months cruize, and supplied with Articles for the Queen Charlotte Isles trade, on which route 'twas meant she shou'd go, while the Ship proceeding along the Southern Coast. [27]
6306
630725.
6308
6309
6310
6311Pleasent weather, Wind at SE. In the morning got the remainders of our affairs from the Shore, and unmoor'd. Left Adventure Cove, and stood down Sound with the Sloop in company. We left our log houses all standing. Anchor'd abrest the Village Opitsatah, but found itt entirely deserted. 898 observ'd very few Canoes moving.
6312
6313During our long tarry in Adventure Cove, we all enjoy'd good health, although the Crew was at times very much exposed. The boatswains sickness commenced before our arrivall in the Cove. The Weather was generally very fine, and very seldom had Snow, and never Ice thicker than a Spanish Dollar, but experienced frequent heavy rains. We pick'd Whurtle and Blue Berries, throughout the winter, which was very fine, and Whurtle Berry pudings was quite common with us. We kept the Crew continually supplied with Spruce beer, and their breakfast and supper was Tea boiled from the green Spruce boughs sweetned with Molasses. perhaps this method kept the Scurvey off. However they did not eat much Salt provisions, as we was generally supplied with Poultry, Venison, and fish.
6314
631527.
6316
6317
6318
6319I am sorry to be under the nessescity of remarking that this day I was sent with three boats, all well man'd and arm'd, to destroy the Village of Opitsatah it was a Command I was no ways tenacious off, and am greived to think Capt. Gray shou'd let his passions go so
6320
6321-- 391 --
6322far. 899 This Village was about half a mile in Diameter, and Contained upwards off 200 Houses, generally well built for Indians ev'ry door that you enter'd was in resemblance to an human and Beasts head, the passage being through the mouth, besides which there was much more rude carved work about the dwellings some of which was by no means innelegant. This fine Village, the Work of Ages, was in a short time totally destroy'd.
6323
6324Cruizing to the S. and E. of de Fuca Straits
6325
6326April 2.
6327
6328
6329
6330Weigh'd in Company with the Sloop, and left Clioquot harbour, and stood to the Southd. with the Ship, while the Sloop Haul'd her wind to the Northward. parted, with loud Huzzas, a proper rendevous being appointed.
6331
63323.
6333
6334
6335
6336On the 3d passed De fuca Straits, experience blowing weather on the Coast, but generally keep sight of the Land. The Shore seems sandy and the land of a moderate height, with much clear ground fitt for Cultivation. 900 Lat. 45° 15'. There is regular soundings of this Coast, which is not the case to the Northward. [28]
6337
63387.
6339
6340
6341
6342N. Latt. 44° 56' W. Long. 122° 52'. Very blowing weather and quite cold. beating off the Coast, waiting for to find a good harbour. 901 the weather grows pleasent.
6343
63449.
6345
6346
6347
6348N. Latt. 44° 24' W. Long. 122° 17'. Pleasent weather, wind NW. Runing along shoar to the South and Eastd. about 2 miles off the land trended N b E and N b W and look'd very pleasent. the Shore made in sandy beaches, and the land rose gradually back into the high hills, and the beautifull feilds of grass, interpersed among the wood lands, made itt delightfull. 902
6349
635010.
6351
6352
6353
6354N. Latt. 43° 45' W. Long. 122° 11'. Abrest a small inlett in the land, which had some the appearance of an harbour. Hove too for some canoes that where coming off these Natives talk'd a different
6355
6356-- 392 --
6357language from any we have before heard. their Canoes had square Stems and the blades of the paddles oval. We purchas'd of them many fine Otter Skins for Copper and Iron. they had some raw Buffaloe in the Canoes, which they offer'd us for sale, and gredily devour'd some of it, in that state as a recommendation. I'm fearfull these fellows are Caniballs. 903 Mr. Smith, 2d Officer, was sent in the Cutter to look for an harbour but was unsuccessful. bore off and made sail. Cape Gregory (so call'd by Capt. Cook) bore SE. Variation. Ampd. 15° 57' East.
6358
635911.
6360
6361
6362
6363N. Latt. 42° 50' W. Long. 122° 3' Ampd. 16°42' E. Some Canoes came along side full of Indians and brought a few Otter and Beaver Skins. Cape Mendocin bore ESE, 2 leagues. 904 Haul'd again to the Northward.
6364
636517.
6366
6367
6368
6369N. Latt. 44° 54' W. Long. 122° 23' Azi. 16° 57' E. Sent the Boat, under charge of 2d officer, to examine an inlett, abrest the Ship, to see if there was safe anchorage, but was unsuccessfull. A large Canoe came along side full of the Natives. by their behaviour, the Columbia was the first ship they ever saw. 905
6370
637122.
6372
6373
6374
6375N. Latt. 46° 39' W. Long. 122° 50' Azi. 17° 33' E. Still beating about, in pursuit of anchorage. Sent the boat in shore often, but cou'd find no safe harbour. The Natives frequently came along side and brought Otter furs and fish. their language to us was unintelligable. Experience strong currents setting to the southward. We have frequently seen many appearances of good harbours, but the Currents and squally weather hindered us from a strict examination however Capt. Gray is determin'd to persevere in the pursuit. 906 [29]
6376
6377At Anchor off the Village of Kenekomitt
6378
637927.
6380
6381
6382
6383N. Latt. 47° 52' W. Long. 123° 30'
6384
6385
6386. This day stood in
6387-- 393 --
6388shore, the weather having become more settled, and anchor'd with the Kedge in 15 f[atho]m sand, abrest a Village, call'd by the Natives Kenekomitt, 907 which was situate on a small Hill just back of the Beach. the Indians brought us a fine lot of Skins, which we got cheifly for Copper, but the weather coming again unsettled, we weigh'd towards evening and stood off making short hanks off and on shore. these Indians spoke the same language as those in De fuca straits.
6389
639028.
6391
6392
6393
6394This day spoke his Britannic Majestey's Ships Discovery and Chatham, commanded by Capt. George Vancover and Lieutanent Wm. Broughton, from England, on a voyage of discovery. 908 Left England April 1st 1791 Ditto Otaheita January '92 and Sandwich Isles March, '92. A boat boarded us from the Discovery, and we gave them all the information in our power, especially as respected the Straits of Juan De Fuca, which place they was then in search off. They bore away for the Straits mouth, which was not far distant. Stood in and drain'd the village we was at yesterday and then bore off after the English Ships.
6395
639629.
6397
6398
6399
6400Pass'd Tatooch Isle, close on board, and left a large ledge of Rocks without us, and stood into the Straits of De Fuca. Many Indians came off, and brought plenty of furs. The English Ships came too towards evening on the South entrance of the straits. in the morning they got under way and stood up. We stood in and anchor'd to the Westward of Cape Flattery in 17 f[atho]m trade not very brisk got under weigh again towards evening and stood to the S and E along shore.
6401
6402May 1.
6403
6404
6405
6406N. Latt. 47° 52' W. Long. 123° 30' Azi. 17° 30' E. Anchor'd off the Village Kenekomitt in the place we left on the 27th of April. Tatooch Isle bore W b S 2 leagues. A brisk trade for furs. 909
6407
6408-- 394 --
64093.
6410
6411
6412
6413Hove up and made sail for the Straits, the weather looking threatning and soon enter'd them, found smooth water. Kept beating to and fro, in preference to casting anchor. [30]
6414
64155.
6416
6417
6418
6419Stood in towards Tatooch's Isle. The Natives brought plenty of Halibut and other fish, but few Skins. Stretch'd out from De Fuca Straits and bore off to the S and E, runing along shore, about 2 miles from land.
6420
64216.
6422
6423
6424
6425Hove too for some Canoes to come up. they brought us fish but no skins. bore off. these fellows belong'd to a small Village in sight from the Ship, call'd Goliew. 910
6426
6427At Anchor in Gray's Harbour
6428
64297.
6430
6431
6432
6433N. Latt. 46° 58'. Saw an inlett in the land, which had the appearance of an harbour, sent the Cutter under charge of 2d Officer to examine itt. Laying too a strong Current with squally weather. The Boat returned, and the Officer reported that he cou'd find nothing but breakers at the entrance, but farther in itt had the appearance of a good harbour. This appearance being so flattering, Capt. Gray was determin'd not to give itt up. Therefore ordering the boat a head to sound with nessescary signalls the Ship stood in for the weather bar and we soon see from the Mast head a passage in between the breakers.
6434
6435Bore off and run in NE b E, having from 4 to 9 fathom sand, an excellent strong tide setting out. the boat having made a signall for anchorage and a good harbour we continued to stretch on till completely within the shoals when we anchor'd in 5 f[atho]m In an excellent harbour. Vast many canoes came off, full of Indians. they appear'd to be a savage sett and was well arm'd, every man having his Quiver and Bow slung over his shoulder. Without doubt we are the first Civilized people that ever visited this port, and these poor fellows view'd us and the Ship with the greatest asstonishment. their language was different from any we have yet heard. The Men where entirely naked, and the Women, except a small apron before, made of Rushes, was also in a state of Nature. they was stout made,
6436
6437-- 395 --
6438and very ugly. Their Canoes was from the Logs rudely cut out, with upright ends. We purchas'd many furs and fish. [31]
6439
64408.
6441
6442
6443
6444N. Latt. 46° 58' W. Long. 123° 0'. Vast many Canoes along side, full of Indians. they brought a great many furs which we purchas'd cheap for Blanketts and Iron We was fearfull to send a Boat on discovery but I've no doubt we was at the Entrance of some great river, as the water was brackish and the tide set out half the time. This evening heard the hooting of Indians, all hands was immediately under arms, sevrall canoes was seen passing near the Ship, but was dispers'd by firing a few Musketts over their heads. At Midnight we heard them again, and soon after as 'twas bright Moon light, we see the Canoes approaching to the Ship. We fir'd sevrall cannon over them, but still persisted to advance with the war Hoop. 911 At length a large Canoe with at least 20 Men in her got within ½ pistol shot of the quarter, and with a Nine pounder, loaded with langerege and about 10 Musketts, loaded with Buck shot, we dash'd her all to peices, and no doubt kill'd every soul in her. The rest soon made a retreat. I do not think that they had aney Conception of the power of Artillery. But they was too near us for to admit of any hesitation how to proceed.
6445
64469.
6447
6448
6449
6450Very pleasent weather, many canoes came along side from down river, 912 and brought plenty of Skins, likewise some canoes from the tribes that first visited us, and their countenances plainly show'd that those unlucky savages who last Night fell by the Ball, was a part of the same tribe for we cou'd plainly understand by their signs and gestures that they where telling the very circumstance to their Acquaintances from down River, and by Pointing to the Cannon, and endeavouring to explain the noise they made, made us still more certain that they had no Knowledge of fire arms previous to our Coming
6451
6452-- 396 --
6453amongst them. I am sorry we was oblidg'd to kill the poor Divells, but it cou'd not with safety be avoided. These Natives brought us some fine Salmon and plenty of Beaver Skins, with some Otters, and I believe had we staid longer among them we shou'd have done well. [32]
6454
645511.
6456
6457
6458
6459Weigh'd and Came to sail, and stretch'd clear of the barr. 913 Named the harbour we had Left, after our Captain, Standing to the South.
6460
6461At Anchor in Columbia's River
6462
646312.
6464
6465
6466
6467N. Latt. 46° 7' W. Long. 122° 47'. This day 914 saw an appearance of a spacious harbour abrest the Ship, haul'd our wind for itt, observ'd two sand bars making off, with a passage between them to a fine river. Out pinnace and sent her in ahead and followed with the Ship under short sail, carried in from ½ three to 7 f[atho]m, and when over the bar had 10 f[atho]m Water quite fresh. the River 915
6468
6469-- 397 --
6470extended to the NE as far as eye cou'd reach, and water fit to drink 916 as far down as the Bars, at the entrance. we directed our course up this noble river in search of a Village. The beach was lin'd with Natives, who ran along shore following the Ship. Soon after above 20 Canoes came off, and brought a good lot of Furs and Salmon, which last they sold two for a board Nail. the furs we likewise bought cheap, for Copper and Cloth. they appear'd to view the Ship with the greatest astonishment and no doubt we was the first civilized people that they ever saw. We observ'd some of the same people we had before seen at Gray's harbour, and perhaps that was a branch of this same River. at length we arriv'd opposite to a large village, situate on the North side of the river about 5 leagues from the entrance, came too in 10 f[atho]m sand, about ¼ mile from shore. 917 The river at this place was about 4 miles over. We purchas'd 4 Otter Skins for a Sheet of Copper, Beaver Skins, 2 Spikes each, and other land furs, 1 Spike each.
6471
6472We lay in this place till the 20th May, 918 during which time we put the Ship in good order and fill'd up all the water casks along side itt being very good. These Natives talk'd the same language as those farther South, but we cou'd not learn itt. Observ'd that the Canoes that came from down river brought no Otter Skins, and I beleive the Otter constantly keeps in Salt water. they however always came well stocked with land furs and capitall Salmon. The tide sett down the whole time and was rapid. Whole trees sometimes come down with the Stream. [33] The Indians inform'd us there was 50 Villages on the banks of this river.
6473
647415.
6475
6476
6477
6478N. Latt. 46° 7' W. Long. 122° 47'. On the 15th took up the Anchor, and stood up River but soon found the water to be shoal
6479
6480-- 398 --
6481so that the Ship took the Ground, after proceeding 7 or 8 miles from our 1st station, however soon got off again. Sent the Cutter and found the main Channel was on the South side, 919 and that there was a sand bank in the middle, as we did not expect to procure Otter furs at any distance from the Sea, we contented ourselves in our present situation 920 which was a very pleasant one. I landed abrest the Ship with Capt. Gray to view the Country and take possession, 921 leaving charge with the 2d Officer. 922 Found much clear ground, fit for Cultivation, and the woods mostly clear from Underbrush. none of the Natives come near us.
6482
648318.
6484
6485
6486
6487Shifted the Ship's birth to her Old Station abrest the Village Chinoak, command'd by a cheif name Polack. 923 Vast many Canoes full of Indians from different parts of the river where constantly along side. Capt. Grays named this river Columbia's, and the North entrance Cape Hancock, and the South Point Adams. 924 This River in
6488
6489-- 399 --
6490my opinion, wou'd be a fine place for to sett up a Factory. The Indians are very numerous, and appear'd very civill (not even offering to steal). during our short stay we collected 150 Otter, 300 Beaver, and twice the Number of other land furs. the river abounds with excellent Salmon, and most other River fish, and the Woods with plenty of Moose and Deer, the skins of which was brought us in great plenty, and the Banks produces a ground Nut, which is an excellent substitute for either bread or Potatoes, We found plenty of Oak, Ash, and Walnut trees, and clear ground in plenty, which with little labour might be made fit to raise such seeds as is nessescary for the sustenance of inhabitants, and in short a factory set up here and another at Hancock's River in the [34] Queen Charlotte Isles, wou'd engross the whole trade of the NW Coast (with the help [of] a few small coasting vessells).
6491
649220.
6493
6494
6495
6496This day 925 left Columbia's River, and stood clear of the bars, and bore off to the Northward The Men at Columbia's River are strait limb'd, fine looking fellows, and the women are very pretty. they are all in a state of Nature, except the females, who wear a leaf Apron (perhaps 'twas a fig leaf). But some of our gentlemen, that examin'd them pretty close, and near, both within and without reported that it was not a leaf but a nice wove mat in resemblance!! and so we go -- thus, thus -- and no Near! --!
6497
649821.
6499
6500
6501
6502N. Latt. 47° 55'. Abrest the Village Goliu, hove too and purchas'd some Skins from the Natives, then bore off to the North and W[es]t.
6503
650422.
6505
6506
6507
6508N. Latt. 48° 20' W. Long. 124° 32'. Saw Tatooch's Isle and Cape Flattery, on the Sou[th] and E entrance of Juan De Fuca straits (bound to the Northd.) for to meet the Sloop Adventure.
6509
651023.
6511
6512
6513
6514N. Latt. 49° 9' W. Long. 126° 0'
6515
6516
6517. Pass'd Clioquot harbour, fine fresh gales at SE.
651824.
6519
6520
6521
6522N. Latt. 50° 10' W. Long. 128° 10'. Pass'd Woody point, at 2 miles distant. sevrall canoes put of from Columbia's Cove, but we did not stop.
6523
6524-- 400 --
6525At Anchor in St. Patrick Harbour
6526
652725.
6528
6529
6530
6531N. Latt. 50° 30' W. Long. 128° 30'. This day the Ship being abrest a fine inlett, dispatch'd Mr. Smith, in the Cutter to examine itt. Soon after the Boat had a Signall for a harbour. Haul'd our wind and stood in shore and anchor'd 15 f[atho]m mud and sand, in a complete Snug Cove. 926 Many Canoes came along side, full of Indians. they was all dress'd in War Armour, 927 and completely arm'd with Bows, arrows, and Spears, and had altogether quite a savage appearance. I believe they was fearfull we shou'd rob their village, which was at no great distance as they appear'd much agitated. however soon began a brisk trade for Otter furs. We landed with the boats and Got Wood and Broom Stuff, but the Indians wishing to be troublesome, soon give over this business. indeed I was obliged to knock one of them down with my Musket. [35]
6532
6533At Anchor in Columbia's Cove
6534
653528.
6536
6537
6538
6539N. Latt. 50° 30' W. Long. 128° 30'
6540
6541
6542. Weigh'd and came to sail, and left this harbour, which we named St. Patricks. 928 The Indians where much the same as the Nootka tribes. Standing towards Woody point, which was in sight. towards evening, anchor'd in Columbia's Cove, in our former birth, past many natives along side, and seem'd much pleased at our visiting them again.
654329.
6544
6545
6546
6547N. Latt. 50° 6' W. Long. 128° 12'. Vast concourse of Indians off, among whom was Necklar chief of the sound. They brought many more furs, that they did last season we visited them. found these
6548
6549-- 401 --
6550Natives so chearfull and oblidging, that we did not apprehend any danger in sending parties on shore after Wood and Water. however, they soon discover'd our Crew was diminish'd, and was very inquisitive for to know what had become of the rest of us. We thought prudent for to tell them that they was asleep below. I mistrust that the Indians did not beleive us, but probably supposed our Shipmates had been kill'd. At 10 In the evening, a number of large Canoes full of People, came into the Cove, they halted near some rocks about Pistol shot from the Ship, and there waited about ten minutes, during which time all hands was brought to arms upon deck in readiness to receive them. Soon after a large War Canoe, with above 25 Indians, paddled off for the Ship, We hail'd them, but they still persisted, and other Canoes was seen following, upon which Capt. Gray order'd us to fire, which we did so effectually as to kill or wound every soul in the Canoe. She drifted along side, but we push'd her Clear, and she drove to the North side of the Cove, under the Shade of the trees. 'twas bright moon light and the woods echoed with the dying groans of these unfortunate Savages, We observ'd many Canoes passing and repassing the Cove at a small distance, in all probability they was after the poor dead Indians they soon after ceas'd groaning, and we neither see nor heard any thing of them after. 929
6551
6552We always found these Natives very friendly but they soon discover'd how thin the Ships Company was now to what it was when we visited them before, and I beleive it is impossible to keep friends with savages any longer than they [36] stand in fear of you. But I cannot think they had any intention of boarding the Ship but where after a small anchor, which they in the course of the day, see placed on some rocks (above water) for to steady the Ship, and when taken off at dusk, they had left the Ship, but still they was daring fellows
6553
6554-- 402 --
6555to think they cou'd steal the anchor of a moon light night within pistol shot of the Ship. Capt. Gray did not wish to fire upon them, for we cou'd easily have blown them to peices, while they was holding a conference abrest the rocks. they first stopt all by firing a Cannon or two among them, and the reason we suffer'd them to approach so near before firing was that we where in hopes they wou'd miss the Anchor, and then leave the Cove, for we wish'd much to keep friendly with these Indians, as this was the appointed Rendezvous for to meet the Sloop.
6556
6557Bound to the Northward
6558
655930.
6560
6561
6562
6563This day unmoor'd and left Columbia's Cove, bound to the Northward, having left a Board nail'd to a tree just back of the watering place with the following inscription (Ship Columbia arriv'd May 28th sail'd May 30th. Beware) that in case Capt. Haswell shou'd arrive before us, he might be on his guard.
6564
6565June 1.
6566
6567
6568
6569N. Latt. 50° 7' W. Long. 128° 30' Ampd. 21° 20' E. Head wind at NW and squally weather. Ships Crew all well and hearty.
6570
65714.
6572
6573
6574
6575N. Latt. 51° 0' W. Long. 129° 1'. Some Canoes full of Indians came off from the Shore abrest the Ship, and many valuable skins was purchas'd. Iron seem'd most in demand. These fellows soon grew saucy, and threw a number of stones at our people, but as we did not wish (if possible) to avoid itt for to shoot the poor mistaken savages, we bore off to the Northward, keeping in sounding from 30 to 20 f[atho]m 2 miles of shore.
6576
6577Pintard's Straits
6578
65795.
6580
6581
6582
6583N. Latt. 51° 30' W. Long. 129° 30' Azi. 20° 30' E. This day saw a large entrance in the land, between two points, above 4 leagues wide. 930 we haul'd in for the same and when between the points had no bottom with 30 f[atho]m. We directed our [course?] about E½ S and cou'd not see the Land to the East. the Ship went in exceeding fast with a strong tide in favour. Water was quite salt, which prov'd itt not to be a River. Observ'd many high Rocks and small Isles
6584
6585-- 403 --
6586scatter'd about in this famous [37] Straits, kept the Lead going, but got no bottom with 30 f[atho]m line, and saw no signs of Indians. towards dark stretch'd close in to the South Shore for anchorage, but found none. Kept working under short sail all night, making short boards. No ground in any direction with 120 f[atho]m line.
6587
65886.
6589
6590
6591
6592Azi. 20° 30' E. Bore away up sound, in pursuit of anchorage and Natives. At length, after advancing 15 leagues up sound, we came too, within stone's throw of the beach, in 20 f[atho]m water, sandy bottom, upon the South shore.
6593
65947.
6595
6596
6597
6598I went on shore abrest the Ship with two boats after wood. took the Carpenter with me for to cut a Mizen topmast. We had not been long at work in the Woods before above 200 Indians of a sudden rush'd out upon us. the carpenter being some way from the rest of the party, got nearly surrounded, and was oblidg'd to fly, leaving his Broad Axe behind. I immediately rallied my people together, and retreated slowly, at the same time fir'd a few Musketts over their heads which kept them in Check. at length they advanced so near as to throw their Spears. We then discharg'd our Musketts and kill'd sevrall. However they still persisted, and I believe if we had not got to the beach (clear from the Woods) that we shou'd have been overpow'd. They heard the reports of the Musketts on board, but never dreamt that we [were] attack'd by Indians, as none had been seen before. Immediately as we made our appearance the Ship cover'd us with the Cannon and the Grape and round shot, must have done considerable damage to our pursuers, as they fell just into the brink of the wood, where the thickest of the Indians was. This soon dispers'd them, and we got all safe on board. Some of these fellows afterwards came down abrest the Ship and brandished their Weapons at us, biding defiance. [38]
6599
66008.
6601
6602
6603
6604N. Latt. 51° 30' W. Long. 129° 30' or thereabouts. Got under way, bound farther up the Straits and towards evening luff'd into a small bend of the land, and came too in 17 fathom close to the shore. 931 a few canoes with Indians came off, who talk'd the Nootka language.
6605
6606-- 404 --
6607they inform'd us that in two days through the woods they cou'd reach Nootka Sound and indeed the Ship was at Anchor near to a Mountain which is plainly in view at Friendly Cove (Nootka Sound).
6608
66099.
6610
6611
6612
6613Many canoes of this day, and plenty of fine Otter Skins was purchas'd. About Noon 20 large War Canoes hove in sight, with above 30 Men in each, and we soon discern'd with our Glasses that they was all arm'd with Spears and Arrows. the freindly Indians that was trading along side told us these people had come to fight, and belong'd to the tribe we had fir'd att two days before, when attack'd upon the beach. Capt. Gray thought itt not safe to admit them along side at once, and therefore order'd them, when within hail, for to keep off, and not but one Canoe come along side at a time. they obey'd the command, and one canoe with 42 men came alongside, but had only a skin or two. We soon discover'd that the main body of Canoes was paddling towards us singing a War Song. We fir'd a Cannon and some Musketts over their heads. At this they mov'd off about 100 yds. and again halted. A small canoe, with a Cheif, (paddled by two Indians) kept constantly plying between the Ship and the main body of the Canoes, counting our men and talking ernestly to the Natives along side, encouraging them to begin the attack. he was suffer'd to proceed in this manner some time, when Capt. Gray told him to come near the Ship no more, but he still persisted, and was shot dead for his temerity. Also the Cheif Warrior of the Canoe along side was shot for throwing his spear into the Ship. They then made a precipitate retreat, and the trading Indians, who had kept at a small distance, viewing the transactions, again recommenced their trade with us. They inform'd us these Indians, who meant to attack us, was of another tribe with them. [39] Canoes with Indians came along side, and traded away their Otter Skins, but not without Manifest signs of fear.
6614
661512.
6616
6617
6618
6619The Natives kept bringing furs, which we purchas'd for Copper and Cloth. (Iron) very dull sale.
6620
6621From Pintard's Straits to Columbia's Cove
6622
662313.
6624
6625
6626
6627Weigh'd and came to sail, standing down straits saw a number of fishing Canoes at a distance but none came near. towards evening
6628
6629-- 405 --
6630came too in 16 f[atho]m at our former anchorage. see no Indians.
6631
663214.
6633
6634
6635
6636Fair wind and pleasent weigh'd and stood down straits, and at 9 In the evening got clear out bound to Columbia's Cove, our place of Rendezvous. Shou'd these straits join with Juan da Fuca, which perhaps it does, it must make the whole Coast between the Latitudes of 48° 15' and 51° 30' North and Longitudes 120° 57' and 129° 30' W. a vast Archipalago of Islsands. 932 We named the part we had entred Pintards, after one of the owners, and I've no doubt we are the first discoverers. 933 It is certainly the most dangerous navigation we have experienced being full of Ledges, small Isles, no soundings and excessive strong tides. But I think it affords the most Sea Otter skins. We procured upwards of 300 hundred during our stay, and We sail'd up this straits more than 100 miles, and cou'd see no end. 934 At our last anchorage, or rather the highest up the shore seem'd to trend about ESE.
6637
663815.
6639
6640
6641
6642N. Latt. 51° 17' Ampd. 21° 14' E. Head wind beating too and fro, making slow progress. The entrance of Pintards straits bore East 3 or 4 leagues 70 f[atho]m water.
6643
664417.
6645
6646
6647
6648N. Latt. 50° 6' W. Long. 128° 21' ỠFresh breezes. This day spoke the Sloop Adventure, Capt. Haswell sent our boat and Capt. Haswell came on board the Ship. bore of the Cove. 'tis remarkable that we both meet within 12 leagues of our rendezvous bound in. The cheif of the Sloops cruize had been about the Charlotte Isles, and had collected about 500 Skins, all prime. On the 24th of April Capt. Haswell fell in with the Ship Margaret of Boston, 935
6649
6650-- 406 --
6651James Magee Master, they was on the same business as ourselves.[40]
6652
6653At 5 PM past Woody point, and at 7 anchored in Company with the Sloop, in Columbia's Cove. 936 A few Natives ventured along side after much coaxing. (found the Inscription at the watring place unmolested.) took the Skins from (Sloop) on board ship, sent parties on shore well arm'd after wood and water, purchas'd some furs.
6654
665520.
6656
6657
6658
6659Haul'd the Sloop on shore, and graved her. Capt. Haswell says she is an excellent sea boat, and sails very well. 937 the Indians among whom we traded never offer'd insult.
6660
666121.
6662
6663
6664
6665Got the Sloop off the ways, and fited her for another Cruize.
6666
666724.
6668
6669
6670
6671Weigh'd and sail'd from the Cove, in Company with the Adventure bound to Queen Charlotte Isles.
6672
667325.
6674
6675
6676
6677N. Latt. 50°37' W. Long. 129°55'. Fair wind and moderate breezes. Sloop in company. The coast about 8 leagues distance.
6678
667928.
6680
6681
6682
6683N. Latt. 52°18' W. Long. 129°15'. Fresh winds, all sail out runing along shore, about 3 leagues dis[tant], with smooth sea. Sloop about 2 miles a head. At 2 PM The Ship struck a Rock, 938 which lay about 7 feet under water and did not break. hove all aback, and she came off clear. try'd the pump, and found she leaked 1000 smart strokes per Hour. sounded along the Rock, and found no ground at 70 f[atho]m. hoisted a signal for the Sloop, and she immediately haul'd her wind for us. Stood off, both Pumps just keeps the leak under. in the morning bore off to the Northward.
6684
668529.
6686
6687
6688
6689N. Latt. 53°1' W. Long. 131°41'. Came on a hard gale of wind, and although we kept firing Cannon through the night the Sloop parted from us, as 'twas very thick in the morning. The leaks
6690
6691-- 407 --
6692rather increas'd, and our feelings was not the most agreeable on the occasion. 939
6693
6694Off Queen Charlotte Isles (South Part)
6695
669630.
6697
6698
6699
6700N. Latt. 51°27' W. Long. 131°10'. This day see the Queen Charlotte Isles, stood in pretty close to the South p[oin]t and fother'd the Ship with a topsail which we had previously prepared for that purpose. this fortunately for us stop'd the leak one half.
6701
6702July 1.
6703
6704
6705
6706N. Latt. 51°48'. Close in off the South p[oin]t of Queen Charlotte Isles from which lay many detach'd rocks We pass'd the p[oin]t within two or three miles and left many breakers without us in the Offing. we wish to get into Barrells sound.[41]
6707
67082.
6709
6710
6711
6712N. Latt. 51°49' W. Long. 130°30'. Saw the entrance of Barrells sound, bear[in]g NW, the wind direct in our teeth. Employ'd turning to windwards, with all the Elements against us. Crew all in brave health.
6713
67143.
6715
6716
6717
6718Employ'd beating to windward through the night, in the morning spoke the Ship Margarett, James Magee, Master. Capt. Gray went on board the Margarett and found Capt. Magee very sick. 940 This Ship stopt a few days at the Cape De Verds, and made her passage in 6 months, they had not been very fortunate in trade. bore away to the Southward, in Company with Capt. Magee. bound to Columbia's Cove for the purpose of examining the Columbia's bottom. fair Wind at NW.
6719
6720At Anchor in Columbia's Cove
6721
67225.
6723
6724
6725
6726N. Latt. 50°6' W. Long. 128°0'. This day came too in Columbia's Cove in company with the Margarett. Sevrall Canoes came along side, and the Natives appear'd quite chearfull.
6727
67286.
6729
6730
6731
6732Hoisted all our Cannon in the longboats of both Ships. made a raft of our spare spars on which we put every thing possible that wou'd not damage. Struck yards and topmasts. So ends.
6733
6734-- 408 --
67357.
6736
6737
6738
6739Took up the Anchor, and haul'd the Ship on shore on a fine beach at high tide. when the tide ebb'd, 'twas discover'd that the Ship's Keel was split, and the lower part of the Stem was entirely gone. within 2 inches of the Wood ends a great deal of Sheathing was off, and three of the plank next to Garboard Streak was stove on the larboard side. The Carpenters went to work, and put in new peices of plank but it was found impracticable to pretend to repair the bows without heaving down, or some such method, and this cou'd not be done in our present situation Nootka Sound, where we knew there was a Spanish settlement, Capt. Gray tho't the most proper place, and we all concur'd in the opinion. 941
6740
67418.
6742
6743
6744
6745haul'd the Ship off, and soon got reddy to leave the Cove.[42]
6746
6747Bound to Nootka Sound
6748
674910.
6750
6751
6752
6753N. Latt. 50°6' W. Long. 128°0'. This day weigh'd and again Left the Cove, in Company with the Margarett, 942 standing towards Nootka, but overshot itt in the Night, which is a misfortune.
6754
675511.
6756
6757
6758
6759N. Latt. 49°9' W. Long. 125°26'. Abrest Clioquot harbour, and as it's in vain to beat to Nootka with a strong breeze a head, we bore up, and towards evening, in company with the Margarett, anchor'd in Clioquot harbor. the Natives were at first shy, but we prevail'd on some of them to come on board.
6760
676112.
6762
6763
6764
6765Capt. Gray, having met with Wickananish on board the Margarett, prevail'd on him to visit the Columbia, but he did not appear happy. However twas the means of geting more Skins than we other-ways should have done. Employ'd wooding and watering (abrest the Ship) and under cover of her Guns.
6766
676715.
6768
6769
6770
6771This day arriv'd in the Harbour the English Brig Venus, 943 Henry Sheppard Master 6 months from Bengall in India. I went off to him in the offing, and piloted his Brig to the harbour. he inform'd
6772
6773-- 409 --
6774us that at a small harbour In De fuca straits where he was at anchor a few days since, there was a Spanish settlement, where lay a Spanish 64, the master of which while amusing himself in shooting back in the woods, was kill'd by the Indians, in consequence of which the Spaniards seized a canoe full of Natives and massacreed them all (in cool blood) not even sparing Children. Shocking to relate! 944
6775
677617.
6777
6778
6779
6780Weigh'd with a fair wind, and left Clioquot bound to Nootka sound to repair the Ship under the protection of the Spaniards. Left the Ship and Brig behind the wind soon came a head, and we began turning to windward, without making much progress. however we shall reach itt by perseverance. [43]
6781
678219.
6783
6784
6785
6786N. Latt. 49°0' W. Long. 125°0'. Bad weather and the wind direct ahead. this day stood in and anchor'd in Clioquot harbour, found the Ship made a poor hand beating to the windward, without a Stem. found the Brig Venus here, but Capt. Magee had sail'd. 945 No canoes off.
6787
678820.
6789
6790
6791
6792Wind favourable, weather more settled. Weigh'd at Daylight, in company with the Venus and stood to sea. Wind soon haul'd in its old quarter. employ'd beating to windward towards Nootka Sound.
6793
679421.
6795
6796
6797
6798N. Latt. 49°17' W. Long. 126°0'. Wind still at WNW, and fair weather. Saw Breakers point NW 4 leagues. making short hanks.
6799
680022.
6801
6802
6803
6804Weather'd away Breakers point and stood towards Nootka Sound. observ'd the Spanish Colours flying at the Entrance of Freindly Cove, but the tide swept us so strong towards some breakers on the East shore, and the wind being light oblidg'd us to Anchor in 16 f[atho]m rockey bottom. Hoisted our Ensign in a Wiff and fired a Gun for assistance which was answered by the Spaniards Soon after see sevrall Boats rowing towards us. quite calm.
6805
680623.
6807
6808
6809
6810The Boats got along side. they was sent by the Spanish Admirall to our assistance (except one, from an English Store Ship, 946
6811
6812-- 410 --
6813under charge of Mr. Neal, the 1st Officer). This Ship was sent out by the British Government, with Stores for Capt. Vancoover, who had not yet arriv'd at the Sound. The Spanish boats was under the Charge of a Pilot, who had order to Get the Ship to the Cove and lend every assistance.
6814
6815At Anchor in Nootka Sound
6816
681724.
6818
6819
6820
6821N. Latt. 49° 30' W. Long. 126° 30'. Light breeze from the Southd. and Eastd. Weigh'd and came to sail, our Conduct of the Spanish Pilot, who well knew his business, and was perfectly acquainted with the soundings and tides. Upon passing the Spanish fort, 947 at the Entrance of the Cove we saluted with 7 Guns, which was return'd. Towards evening came too, in Freindly Cove (Nootka sound), found riding here the Store Ship, a Spanish Sloop of War, and the Brig Venus. The Spaniards treated us nobly, and offer'd freely evry assistance in their power. We lay in this place till the 23d August. Shall give the Minutes of our transactions [44] during that period.
6822
682325.
6824
6825
6826
6827N. Latt. 49° 30' W. Long. 126° 30'. Dischar[g]'d the Ship's Cargo and Stores, and stored them in a house on shore which the Spaniards had lent us for that purpose. Strip'd the Ship to a Girtline, and got the riging all on shore to repair. The Spanish governor seem'd highly pleas'd with the dispatch that took place, indeed ev'ry Man in the Columbia was anxious to get the Ship in readiness to pursue her Voyage, well knowing that the time drew nigh when we shou'd again be sailing towards our freinds in America, and our sweet anticipation of the Joys that await us there made us use ev'ry effort. This Spanish settlement at Nootka, contained about 50 Houses 948 indifferently built (except the Governors, which was rather grand than otherways). there was about 200 Inhabitants, Consisting
6828
6829-- 411 --
6830of Spaniards and Peru Indians, but no females. their fort was no great thing, mounted with 6 Twenty four and Thirty six pounders. the platforms would not bear the weight of metal. There was two Botanists resided with the Governor. 949 Capt. Gray took up his lodgings at the governors request at his house.
6831
683229.
6833
6834
6835
6836Don Van Francisco De La Vondego, 950 which was the name of the Governor, gave a grand entertainment at his house, at which all the Officers of the Fleet partook. fifty four persons sat down to Dinner, and the plates, which was solid silver, was shifted five times, which made 270 Plates. the Dishes, Knifes and forks, and indeed evry thing else, was of Silver 951 and always replaced with spare ones. There could be no mistake in this as they never carried the dirty plates or Dishes from the Hall where we dined (as I thought, on purpose to let us see the quantity of plate used by Spaniards in South America).
6837
683831.
6839
6840
6841
6842This day Got all ready to heave down by the Spanish Sloop of war, the Governor having granted us his permission.
6843
6844August 1.
6845
6846
6847
6848Haul'd along side the Spanish Ship, 952 fix'd our purchases too her, and soon had the Columbia Keel out. But was oblidg'd to right her again, as she made too much water, her upper works being quite weak, Capt. Gray determin'd to give over the Idea of heaving her out, and accordingly gave orders to prepare to lay her ashore on blocks. [45]
6849
6850-- 412 --
68512.
6852
6853
6854
6855N. Latt. 49° 30' W. Long. 126° 30'. This day haul'd the Ship upon the beach at high water, and placed a long round log along her keel fore and aft, endeavouring to trip her over itt but the Bottom being so flat, she wou'd [not] turn, keel out. Other logs was laid and moor'd with Cannon on the Beach, with an intention of laying the Ship's Fore foot on them, which we accordingly did at high water, the logs laying as far aft as the fore Chains. this method answered our most sanguine expectations. at low water, or half ebb, the ship's bows lay'd four feet above the beach. in this situation we scuttled her Aft, so as to keep her steady in her birth, at high water. In three days, by the assistance of the Spanish and English Carpenters, a New Stem and part of the Cutwater was put to the Ship. Stopt the Scuttle, grav'd the Ship and Haul'd off to our Moorings.
6856
68578.
6858
6859
6860
6861The Spaniards view'd us with astonishment, and the Governor obser[v]'d that he beleived we cou'd build a ship in a month.
6862
68639.
6864
6865
6866
6867The Brig Hope, Joseph Ingrahim, arriv'd here, on the 1st from Canton, 953 and sail'd this day on a Cruize.
6868
686910.
6870
6871
6872
6873On the 10th arrived here the ship Buttersworth, 954 from London, Wm. Brown Commander, Ship Margarett, James Magee, and Brig Hope, Joseph Ingrahim.
6874
687511.
6876
6877
6878
6879And on the 11th arriv'd The Sloop Prince La Boo, 955 Capt. Gordon from London. these Vessells where all in the fur trade. the Laboo was a tender to the Buttersworth.
6880
6881-- 413 --
688216.
6883
6884
6885
6886The Ship Margarett put to sea, under charge of Mr. Lamb, 1st Officer, Capt. Magee residing with the Spanish governor for the benifit of his health. 956
6887
688822.
6889
6890
6891
6892This Day the Columbia was ready for sea, and in fine order. have painted her complete.
6893
689423.
6895
6896
6897
6898Arriv'd the English brig Three B's, 957 Leiutenant Alder, Commander, from London on a trading Voyage.
6899
6900Bound to Charlotte Isles
6901
690224.
6903
6904
6905
6906Weigh'd and Came to sail, bound for Queen Charlotte Isles, Barrells sound, those Isles being the appointed rendezvous, for to meet the Adventure, Capt. Haswell. It is but doing Justice to the Spaniards at Nootka Sound to observe that during our tarry among them we was treated with the greatest hospitallity, and in fact they seem'd to exert themselves and to feel interested in our behalf. May such fine fellows Never be in want of the like assistance shou'd they ever stand in need of itt from the hands of any American. The Governor wou'd Not allow Capt. Gray for to pay one farthing. [46]
6907
690825.
6909
6910
6911
6912N. Latt. 49° 30' W. Long. 126° 30'. Nootka sound is as remarkable a place to know from seaward as any I know off. At most times Tashee peak 958 (a mountain) in the form of a sugar loaf can be seen, and there is none other that at all resembles itt, on this part of the Coast. A long low point, with high Breakers off itt, makes the SE part of the Bay. 959 The Western entrance of the sound runs down to a low point, with a small round Hill, just back of Freindly cove.
6913
691428.
6915
6916
6917
6918N. Latt. 51° 45' W. Long. 130° 30'. This day made the SE part of the group of Charlotte Isles. A thick fog 960 came on so that
6919
6920-- 414 --
6921we cou'd not reach the sound. Employ'd beating off and on, waiting for fair weather.
6922
692330.
6924
6925
6926
6927This day the weather Clear'd and the Sloop Adventure hove in sight standing for Barr[e]l sound. This is the second time we have met off the place of Rendezvous, Saluted each other with 7 Guns. found Capt. Haswell and Crew all well, and had made a successful cruize. We stood into Port Mongommery, a small harbour to the Northd. of Barrells Sound, which the Adventure had visited before, and her Captain named itt after our famous American Generall, who fell before Quebec while gloriously fighting in the defence of our liberties. Graved the Sloop in this place, and otherways put her in fine order to attract the eyes of the Spaniards at Nootka, as Capt. Gray meant to sell her to them if possible. Cut some spare spars at this place, and wooded and waterd the Ship for her passage to Canton. Many Natives visited us, and brought plenty of fish but few furs. Took out the Skins from the Sloop 961 and stow'd them away on board the Ship.
6928
6929Bound to Nootka Sound
6930
6931September 13.
6932
6933
6934
6935Weigh'd and stood to sea in co[mpany] with the Adventure, bound to Nootka sound.
6936
693721.
6938
6939
6940
6941N. Latt. 49° 30' W. Long. 126° 30'. Abrest the Entrance of the Sound, a Spanish Brig in sight to leeward, which hove too and fir'd a Gun. We immediately bore off for her. She was the Acteva of 14 Guns, with the Spanish Governor of Nootka 962 on board, bound to Peru. he told Capt. Gray that he wou'd wait 10 Days at a small Spanish settlement in Juan De Fuca straits, where he was then going for to leave some orders previous to his leaving the Coast He appear'd anxious to have the Sloop and Haswell was not backward in displaying her to the best advantage. towards evening we anchor'd in Freindly Cove having saluted the Spanish governor with 13 Guns when we parted. found riding in the Cove His Majesty's Ships Discovery and Chatham, 963 The Dedalus, Store Ship, Capt. [Thomas]
6942
6943-- 415 --
6944New, [47] Ship Margarett, 964 of Boston, Capt. Magee, English Brig Fens, 965 Capt. Diffin, English Sloop Jackhall, 966 Capt. Steward, and a Spanish Line of Battle Ship of 74 Guns. Spanish Colours still flying at the fort, The Governor having refused to give up the Sound to Capt. Vancoover who was authoriz'd by his Goverment for to take possession of itt. However the Spaniards told Vancoover that he might have that particular place where Capt. Mears made his small settlement and built a Sloop, which was very inconsiderable. Capt. Vancoover insisted upon having the whole or none, However they both agreed to let the business remain (in statu quo) to remain freinds, and write home to their respective Courts on the subject of dispute.
6945
6946Juan de Fuca Straits
6947
694822.
6949
6950
6951
6952Weighed in Co[mpany] with the Sloop, and left Nootka bound to Port Ne-ar 967 in Juan de Fuca straits. fair wind and pleasent weather.
6953
695423.
6955
6956
6957
6958N. Latt. 49° 9' W. Long. 125° 26' á». Close in with Clioquot harbour. In the morning saw two Sail in the NW. At Meridian Tatooch's Isle on the SE entrance of the Straits bore E½ S 8 or 9 leagues.
6959
696024.
6961
6962
6963
6964N. Latt. 48° 30' W. Long. 123° 45'. Spoke the Spanish Brig Acteva, with the Governor on board. They was much suppriz'd at our being in the Straits as soon as they was. At dark the Spanish Brig hove too under her tops[ai]ls we kept plying all night for our
6965
6966-- 416 --
6967Port, and in the Morning got safe to anchor in Co[mpany] with the Sloop Adventure. Found riding here the Spanish Ship Princessa of 64 Guns, and Brig Hope, Capt. Ingrahim. this was a small, good harbour 968 situate about 5 leagues from Cape Flattery within the straits of De fuca. the Spaniards had erected a Cross upon the beach, and had about 10 Houses and sevrall good Gardens. 969 Sevrall Natives along side, and a few prime Skins was purchas'd (with plenty of fine Halibut). I went with the Pinnace to the Assistance of the Acteva, she having been oblidg'd to anchor near Cape Flattery, in a dangerous situation when I came on board, instead of using evry effort to get clear of the threatning Danger, they was performing Mass. However soon got under way and stood for Port Ne-ar. 970 [48]
6968
696925.
6970
6971
6972
6973N. Latt. 48° 35' W. Long. 123° 30'. The Acteva anchor'd in Company. saluted the Governor with 13 Guns, which was return'd. Employ'd filling up our Water and geting ready for our passage across the Pacific Ocean.
6974
697526.
6976
6977
6978
6979Spanish Officers from both ships, together with Capt. Ingraham, dined on board the Columbia. Fired, on their coming and Going away, two Foederall salutes.
6980
698127.
6982
6983
6984
6985Sail'd the Princessa for Nootka sound. 971 Ships crew are all in prime health. Natives constantly visit us, but they do not like the Spaniards.
6986
698728.
6988
6989
6990
6991This day sold the Sloop Adventure to the Spanish Governor for 72 Prime Sea Otter Skins worth 55 Dollars each in Canton
6992
6993-- 417 --
6994which is equall too 4960$, which at 50 per Cent advance home is 7440 Spanish Piasters, a good price. He wanted her as a present to the Viceroy of Mexico. before delivery we took out all her provisions and stores, with a New Cable and Anchor.
6995
699629.
6997
6998
6999
7000Sail'd this day the Brig Acteva and Sloop Adventure, under Spanish Colours, bound to Acapulco. we saluted on their departure with 9 Guns which was return'd.
7001
700230.
7003
7004
7005
7006Weigh'd and sail'd from Port Nßar, bound across the Straits for a Cove call'd by us Poverty. same evening anchor'd in 7 fathom. found this harbour much snuger for our business. The Indians brought a few Skins and plenty of fish and some train oil which last article we much wanted.
7007
7008October 1.
7009
7010
7011
7012Employ'd wooding and watering and geting the Ship in order. Cut many spare spars.
7013
70143.
7015
7016
7017
7018Weigh'd for the last time on the NW Coast, and Left Poverty Cove bound for Canton in China via Sandwich Islands. Our feelings on this occasion are easier felt than described. Our freinds at Home and ev'ry endearing Idea rush'd so full upon us and made us so happy, that 'twas impossible, for a while to get the Ship in readiness for bad weather and full allowance of Grog being serv'd on the occasion, made our worthy Tars join in the generall Mirth -- and so we go. [49]
7019
7020N. Latt. 48° 25' W. Long. 123° 30'. At noon Cape Flattery bore East 7 leagues. Steering SW, Wind NE. Soon lost sight of the Mountains of North America. . . .
7021
702228.
7023
7024
7025
7026N. Latt. 20° 5' W. Long. 154° 52' *. Spoke the Brig Fens, Capt. Duffan, 972 bound to Canton. The first lieutanent of the Discovery, Capt. Vancoover, was a passenger on board this Vessell, bound home with dispatches for Goverment.
7027
7028Sandwich Isles. Pacific Ocean
7029
703029.
7031
7032
7033
7034N. Latt. 20° 14' W. Long. 154° 20'. Made the Isle of Owhyheee one of the Sandwich Isles where the famous Circumnavigator,
7035
7036-- 418 --
7037Capt. James Cook was kill'd by the Natives. Standing towards the Isles, it having been seen at 15 leagues distant.
7038
703930. Hove too, for some Canoes and purchased 11 Hogs from the Natives and plenty of vegetables, such as Sweet Potatoes, Yams, tarro etc. These Canoes was very neatly made, but quite narrow. the Outriggers kept them steady, or else I think they wou'd too easily upsett in the Sea. The Men where fine stately looking fellows, and the Women quite handsome. They where all in a state of Nature, except a small covering round the Middle Not many of the Columbia's Crew prov'd to be Josepths. run along very near the Isles and hove too off Karakakoa Bay. Some double Canoes came along side, These was suspended apart by large rafters well supported. the Masts where rig'd between the Canoes, and they carried their mat sails a long time, sailing very fast. the Shore was lined with people. [50]
7040
704131.
7042
7043
7044
7045N. Latt. 20° 14' W. Long. 154° 50'. Stood round the Island and haul'd into Toaj yah yah bay, 973 and hove too. Vast many canoes sailing in Co[mpany] with us. The Shore made a delightfull appearance, and appeared in the highest state of Cultivation. Many Canoes along side containing beautiful Women Plenty of Hogs and fowls, together with most of the Tropical fruits in abundance, great quantities of Water and Musk Mellons, Sugar Cane, Bread fruit, and salt was brought for sale. The price of a large Hog was from 5 to 10 spikes, smaller ones in proportion. 6 Dunghill fowls for an Iron Chizzell, and fruit cheaper still.
7046
7047November 1.
7048
7049
7050
7051This day, having on board 93 Hogs and great quantities of Fruits and Vegetables, we bore away from this enchanting Island bound to Onehow, 974 after more Yams and to put a Native on shore, which the Capt[ain] had taken from that Isle on his former voyage. pass'd the Isles of Tahousa, 975 Rainai, 976 Mower, 977 and Wha-how, 978 left them to the Northd. of us.
7052
70532.
7054
7055
7056
7057N. Latt. 21° 59' W. Long. 160° 0'. Pass'd Atooi, and steer'd for Yam bay in Onehow. In the morning was well into the bay. Vast many canoes off, in one of which was the Father and other relations of our Sandwich Island Lad. they came on board and the meeting was very affectionate, but still our Lad refused to go on shore and
7058
7059-- 419 --
7060Capt. Gray did not think proper for to force him. However made his freinds many presents. purchas'd some Hogs here and great quantitys of Cocoa Nuts, with a good lot of Nice line for rising, etc.
7061
70623.
7063
7064
7065
7066Bore off and made all sail for the Coast of China, and soon lost sight of these beautifull Isles, The Inhabitants of which appear'd to me to be the happiest people in the world. Indeed there was something in them so frank and chearfull that you cou'd not help feeling preposses'd in their favour. 979 [51]
7067
70684.
7069
7070
7071
7072N. Latt. 19° 56' W. Long. 163° 58'. Pleasent NE trade winds, with smooth sea. Crew all in health. Kill'd and salted 17 large Hogs. We followed Capt. Cook's plan 980 by taking out the Bones, and laying the Meat (after salting) between two Hatches with a heavy W[eigh]t on them through the Night and in the morning early after a good examination, pack'd it away in Barrells, using strong pickle this method answered ev'ry purpose.
7073
707413.
7075
7076
7077
7078N. Latt. 15° 49' W. Long. 185° 25' E. Long. 174° 35' Ampd. 13° 23' E. Keep the people employ'd cleaning furs.
7079
708024.
7081
7082
7083
7084N. Latt. 15° 50' W. Long. 212° 29' E. Long. 147° 31' Azi. 9° 56' E. This is pleasent sailing, have not experienced a squall since leaving the Islands, and the sea quite smooth, although a fresh NE trade. Crew all well.
7085
708629.
7087
7088
7089
7090N. Latt. 18° 24' W. Long. 226° 15' E. Long. 133° 45' Azi. and Ampd. 7° 12' E. Sea grows more rough and the weather a little squally.
7091
7092Bashee Isles and Coast of China. Pacific Ocean
7093
7094December 3.
7095
7096
7097
7098N. Latt. 20° 30' W. Long. 232° 28' E. Long. 127° 32'
7099
7100
7101. This day, contrary to our expectation we made the Bashee Isles at 10 leagues dis[tance] to the Westward Have experienced strong Currents in our favour since leaving the Sandwich Isles. As we cou'd not weather with the wind at NE 'twas thought best to run between Grafton and Monmouth Isles bore off accordingly.
71024.
7103
7104
7105
7106Fresh breeze. At 6 PM we where between the Islands, doubled
7107
7108-- 420 --
7109pretty near Grafton, and luff'd close under the Lee of Orange Isle. Saw a Number of fires on the shore, but it was too dark to make any observations. When clear of the group haul'd close on a wind for the coast of China.
7110
71115.
7112
7113
7114
7115N. Latt. 21° 48' Correct W. Long. 239° 29' Correct E. Long. 120° 31' Azi. and Ampd. 2° 41' W. Saw the Island of Formosa, bearing E b N at Meridian, 12 leagues. Fair NE Monsoon.
7116
71176.
7118
7119
7120
7121N. Latt. 22° 20' W. Long. 243° 38' E. Long. 116° 22'. Saw the Main land of China bea[rin]g NW 8 leagues, at Meridian above 100 sail of fishing boats in sight. Soundings 23 fathom sand and ouze. [52]
7122
71237.
7124
7125
7126
7127N. Latt. 22° 7' W. Long. 244° 57' E. Long. 115° 3'. Pass'd the Island or rather Rock of Pedro Branca (or Blanco), 981 at Day light, 982 it was of a Conical Shape and appear'd perfectly white. At Noon the Grand Lema Island bore WSW 5 leagues. Hundred of fishing boats in sight. At 3 PM pass'd the Lema, leaving itt on our larboard hand. At 6 Got a Pilot on board, who agreed to carry us to Macao roads, for 25 Dollars. Stood between the Lema Islands all night, with a light breeze.
7128
7129Macao Roads. Coast of China
7130
71318.
7132
7133
7134
7135This morning early anchor'd in Macao roads, 14 f[atho]m muddy bottom. Not liking our situation weigh'd and shifted our Berth nigher to Macao, and anchor'd in 4½ f[atho]m Mud. The Fort at Macao bear[in]g S 8° 8' W 4 miles, and the outermost of the Nine Isles N 8° E. Capt. Gray went to Macao in the pinnace. A Black fellow came on board and inform'd us that Capt. Kendrick in the Lady Washington lay in Lark's Bay, 983 and that the Brig had been dismasted in the Chinese seas about two months before, in a Tuffoon, being again bound for the NW Coast. Kendrick was refiting his vessell again.
7136
7137-- 421 --
71389.
7139
7140
7141
7142Capt. Gray return'd on board, he inform'd us that Capt. Kendrick sail'd for the NW in September last, in company with a small tender he had fitted in Macao. He was out four days when the Tuffoon overtook him. the Brig laid on her Beam ends for some time before they cut away the Masts. She then righted, and the gale abating ster'd for Macao. The whole surface of the sea was cover'd with the Wrecks of Chinese Boats, and many of the poor fishermen was still hanging to peices of the Boats. Capt. Kendrick pick'd up above thirty of the poor fellows, and was oblidg'd to pass a great many that he cou'd not assist. He arriv'd in Larks Bay the 7th day after the Gale. 984 A Macao Boat came along side with two European gentleman, and purchas'd of us 21 piclall of Iron at 7$ per piclal. 985 A River pilot took charge for 40$ to take the Ship to Whampoa. [53]
7143
714410.
7145
7146
7147
7148Weigh'd, with the wind at NE early in the morning making slow progress. in the evening anchor'd below Lintin bar in 5 fathom. next morning weigh'd and beat up to the Boca Tigris, and anchor'd in 17 f[atho]m.
7149
7150Canton River, China
7151
715212.
7153
7154
7155
7156This day arriv'd to our Moorings at Whampoa, having been oblidged to beat the whole way from Macao roads. Found riding here 47 Sail of European Ships, and six American D[itt]o. Capt. Gray went to Canton in the pinnace. We lay'd at this place till the 2d of February, during which time we give the Ship a complete overhaul from her keel to the truck. We haul'd the Ship a shore on Dutch Island beach and graved. this business cost 150$ (paid to the Propri[e]tors of the beach). The Whole expence accruing to the Columbia at Canton amounted to the enormous sum of 7000 Spanish $. The otter Furs where landed at Canton and D[e]l[ivere]d to the Hong Merchants for 90,000$, average 45 Dollars each. the Land furs sold quite low in proportion.
7157
7158-- 422 --
7159The Ship was laden with a full Cargo of Teas and Nanken with a small proportion of Sugar and China Porcelain. 'Tis the Custom in this place to engage with a Contractor to supply the Ship with provisions and other stores. they call themselves Compadores. You must give them a certain Sum, generally 150$ before they'll undertake. The first of these fellows that was engag'd run away with 250$ in our debt. this Money was advanced him previous to our having a Security Merchant, otherways it wou'd have been recover'd. These security Merchants ev'ry ship must have before they can transact business, as the goverment looks to them for the Amount of Duties. Capt. Gray generally staid at Canton and the Officers by turns, and ev'ry man on board had two Days liberty allowed him.
7160
7161We had a building made of Bamboo and Cover'd with Matts nearly abrest the Ship on the Banks of the River. This was found by the Compadore and answer'd very well for to put the Ships Stores in while careening and loading. An Officer and gang of hands was station'd at this place as a guard. [54] There was two large boats station'd along side the Ship with Customs house officers on board (the whole time we lay'd in the river). a family resided in each boat (they being completely shelter'd). The Manderine had an apartment by himself.
7162
71631793, January 1.
7164
7165
7166
7167Rec[eive]d a letter from Capt. Kendrick, who inform'd us of the death of Messrs. Wood and Stodderd, two young men of Boston. I believe they liv'd too fast for the Climate.
7168
7169When we arriv'd at Whampoa there was upwards of a dozen fine Hogs on deck, which we had reserv'd for the Passage home. the Rasscles of the Chinese found means to throw them some poisenous stuff, which kill'd the whole of them. But we took notice as soon as they was thrown overboard, they was eagerly seiz'd, and no doubt was feasted upon by the poor of the River, indeed nothing escap'd their clutches. the Entrails of Poultry, or Dead rats serv'd equally alike to appease these half starv'd wretches that constantly surrounds the shiping. However I always remark'd that they was very nice in their Cookery, and Rice was always a part of ev'ry Mess. No Indians we had ever visited during the Voyage was more complete in the Art of theiving than the Chinese of the lower order on this River. And in
7170
7171-- 423 --
7172fact they appear'd to me to be the greatest Villains in the Universe. (These remarks are only as respects the Common people.) the Chinese Gentleman is of a very different character, and indeed I was highly pleas'd with the polite attention showne to strangers at Canton by the Mandarines and Merchants at that place, indeed among themselves they appear to stand upon the nicest Etiquette. The Chinese merchant is very particular in his business, and very nice in his Calculations, and no part of his affairs appear to be unnotic'd by him. In making a bargain they are very shrewd, when closed they are faithfull as to quantity, but for quality you must be constantly on your guard or else 'tis certain the Goods will not turn out as expected, and the only satisfaction you will get from them Is that you ought to have looked sharper, and at the same [time] will try to Console you by this remark, that on another Voyage you will be better acquainted with the mode of doing business at Canton. [55] Upon the whole, the Candour that is about the Chinese merchant makes some amends for the generall complaint against them, (that they will cheat you, if they can) therefore your business is to see (that they shall not).
7173
7174'Tis supprizing to observe the business that is going on in the Suburbs of Canton, the streets are generally thronged with people, all busily engag'd in their sevrall avocations, the Shops well stock'd with Goods, and appear to meet with incouragements. Few Women are to be seen. these (if Chinese) have the small crippled feet, the ancle looking like an Horse's hoof. If Tarter, the feet is of the naturall growth. So much has been said about Canton and the Manners and Customs of the Chinese, that 'tis needless for me to make any further remarks on the subject.
7175
7176From Canton towards the Straits of Banca
7177
7178February 2.
7179
7180
7181
7182This day the Pilot came on board and took charge. Unmoor'd and stood down the river. Left but 7 Ships behind, all English and Swedes.
7183
71844.
7185
7186
7187
7188Anchored this day below the Bars, wind gradually in our teeth, work along with the tides.
7189
71906.
7191
7192
7193
7194Anchor'd just above the Boca Tigris; in the Night the Chinese rasscles cut the Cable, although we kept a good watch. Lett go another,
7195
7196-- 424 --
7197and brought up. in the morning, the Buoy being taken away, cou'd not recover the Anchor, therefore left it with 9 f[atho]m Cable.
7198
71997.
7200
7201
7202
7203Pass'd the Boca Tigris and stood for Macao roads.
7204
72058.
7206
7207
7208
7209Ran through Macao roads and stood to sea. The Pilot left us. Took a departure from the Macao Fort, it lying in Latitude 22° 13' North, and Longitude 113° 52' East of London. Some Chinese junks in Company Find the Ship requires one Pump pretty steady to keep her free, however as it has been a steady leak for some time, it is not look'd upon as a serious affair. The Wind prevails from the Eastern board and is very squally.
7210
7211The Ships Crew are all well and Hearty, and looking forward with anxious solicitude to a happy meeting of Sweethearts and Wives. How can we be otherways than happy when anticipating the joys that awaits us there!! 986 [56] . . .
7212
721318.
7214
7215
7216
7217N. Latt. 9° 44' W. Long. 250° 48' E. Long. 109° 12'. At Midnight, saw a small Isle bear[in]g SW b S 1 leagues, and soon after see Pulo Supata, bear[in]g S b E 2 leagues to the Northd. At 6 AM bore off and made sail wind ENE Cou'd not weather Pulo Sapata. Pass'd two miles to the Westward of itt. When the Isle bore East, a large White Rock or Isle bore NNW 6 or 7 leagues dis[tant]. At 9 was clear of Supata, 987 and see no dangers in the track we pursued although I beleive 'twas quite an unfrequented one. This Sapata Isle is very properly named, as it has every appearance of a Shoe, after which it is Called in Malay. Bore off to the westd. with an intention of striking soundings off Pulo Condore. Pulo Supata Latitude is 10° 4', and 109° 10' E. . . .
7218
721922.
7220
7221
7222
7223N. Latt. 3° 0' W. Long. 255° 5' E. Long. 104° 55'. The Islands of Pulo Timon, Aore, and Tissang 988 in sight to the Southward. At Noon Pulo Aore bore S b W½ 10 leagues. Soundings 35 fathom. . . .
7224
722524.
7226
7227
7228
7229S. Latt. 0° 44' W. Long. 254° 46' E. Long. 105° 14'. This day saw Pulo Taya to the westward. At Noon Pulo Taya 989 bore WNW
7230
7231-- 425 --
72326 leagues, the Seven Islands, S b E. Experience a Current to the Southward this 24 hours, the Monsoon moderate.
7233
723425.
7235
7236
7237
7238S. Latt. 1° 43' W. Long. 255° 9' E. Long. 104° 51'. Pass'd between Taya and the 7 Isles, distance from 7 Isles about 4 leagues. More Islands hove in sight to the SE. At Sunsett saw land which we took for Monopin Hill. laid of and on through the Night under short sail, soundings from 8 to 16 fathom. At daylight Monopin Hill bore S b E, 7 leagues. Bore off. [57] At Meridian Monopin Hill bore E½N and the Sumatra shore WSW, the ship nearest the Banca Shore, 990 strong Currents to the Southward. Soundings 18 fathom.
7239
7240Straits of Banca
7241
724226.
7243
7244
7245
7246S. Latt. 2° 43'. Enter'd the Straits of Banca, and stood to the SE. At 5 PM Monopin hill bearing NNW, the Ship being ⅓ nearest to the Banca shore from Sumatra on. We shoal'd the water very sudden from 10 to 3 fathoms, rocks, bore off to the South and West and soon deep'd itt again. this must have been on the Fredrick Hendrik Shoal.
7247
7248In the evening came too on the Sumatra shore, 9 f[atho]m Mud, strong tides, 3d point bore E b S 2 leagues.
7249
7250At daylight got under way, and stood down straits. At 10 abrest the Nanka Isles, a number of Malay proas in sight. At 11 AM a dangerous shoal bore West 1 league, high breakers. At Noon observ'd as above. 1st p[oin]t bore S b E 4 leagues.
7251
725227.
7253
7254
7255
7256S. Latt. 4° 21' W. Long. 253° 43' E. Long. 106° 17' á». Winds from NW and pleasent. At 2 PM Pass'd a Moorish Sloop, (at anchor). She was strongly man'd and arm'd. I believe she was a Pirate. many Proas about. At Sunsett the Isle of Lucepara bore SE b E 3 leagues, and 1st point on Sumatra, SW b S. Pass'd nearest to the Sumatra Shore, the shoalest water 4½ f[atho]m and when through deep'd itt to 12 and 14 f[atho]m, a strong tide in favour. At Noon observ'd as above.
7257
725828.
7259
7260
7261
7262S. Latt. 4° 39' W. Long. 253° 50' E. Long. 106° 10' *. Depth of Water, from 10 to 14 f[atho]m throughout these 24 hours.
7263
7264-- 426 --
7265Wind from the Westd. and very dark weather. Bound towards the Straits of Sunda.
7266
7267March 1.
7268
7269
7270
7271S. Latt. 5° 9'. At Sunsett see the Two Sister 991 Isles to the Southward, wind to the SW and very light. Soundings from 12 to 14 f[atho]m. At dark came too off the Sumatra shore, at 2½ leagues dist[ant], 9½ f[atho]m Mud In the morning got under way. At Noon observ'd Latt. as above, the Sisters bear[in]g SSE 2 miles.
7272
72732.
7274
7275
7276
7277S. Latt. 5° 25'. Wind at West, soundings throughout the 24 hours from 12 to 15 f[atho]m. found these Isles of Sisters to be surround'd with Dangerous Reefs. In the evening came too in 12 f[atho]m Muddy bottom Hogs point on Sumatra in sight bearing South 11 leagues, and North Island SW b S½W. In the morning weigh'd and stood towards North Isle. At Noon observ'd as above. [58]
7278
7279At North Isle and Straits of Sunda
7280
72813.
7282
7283
7284
7285Winds moderate and Cloudy, working towards North Isles Roads. At sunsett came too in the Roads, 15 f[atho]m muddy bottom. pass'd sevrall Turtle and Water Snakes between the Sisters and our anchorage. the Two Ships shew English Colours. In the morning early shifted our berth nearer the watering place, and at 7 AM anchor'd in 15 f[atho]m. Hoisted out all the Boats, and dispatch'd them for water. The Ships that lay in the road was an English 64, Capt. Gore 992 and the Indostan India Companies Ship, Capt. Mackintosh. The Lion had on board Mr. Macartney, 993 a Minister from the British Goverment to the Court of Pekin. We took Dispatches for them to leave at St. Helena. Towards evening these ships sail'd for Batavia. Two Dutch Guard of Coasters anchor'd in Co[mpany] with us. By night we had fill'd up all our water and purchas'd a good quan[ti]ty of Poultry and Fruit of the Malays at the Beach. I landed with the Charge of our boats, found above 200 Malays round the watring place. they was completly arm'd, with Creases (or Daggers), but was quite freindly. However I did not allow the Boats to touch the beach and only let 6 men beside myself land, and swam the water casks off to the boats, when fill'd. this method I
7286
7287-- 427 --
7288thought but prudent, as the Malays had kill'd one of the Lions crew, while washing cloaths at the brook. I cannot say that I experienced the most agreable sensations while on this duty.
7289
72904.
7291
7292
7293
7294Employ'd variously. Got a good quantity of Wood from North Isle. The watering place being on Sumatra, we see no Natives on North Isle.
7295
72965.
7297
7298
7299
7300Weigh'd and sail'd from North Island roads, bound through Sunda Straits pass'd the Qepthan Isles and Stroon rock upon which was high breakers. Pass'd itt on the larboard hand. At Meridian Crackatoa Isle bore SSW 4 miles, sounding 20 f[atho]m St. Tamanies Isle NNE Wind SSW [59]
7301
73026.
7303
7304
7305
7306S. Latt. 6° 2'. Wind from SW to NW and very squally weather with heavy rain. Turning to windward between Princes Island and Crokatore and in the Night came very near depositing the Ship upon the Qu Klip rocks, however good luck prevail'd. Crew all in health.
7307
73087.
7309
7310
7311
7312S. Latt. 6° 39'. A[t] Meridian Princes Isle bore East and Java Head ESE 5 leagues. Wind from NW, stood to the southward. . . .
7313
7314Saw the Isle of Roderigue and Mauritius. Southern Ocean
7315
7316April 4.
7317
7318
7319
7320S. Latt. 19° 37' W. Long. Corrected 297° 10' E. Long. 62° 50' á». This Day made the Isle of Roderigue bearing SW The Ship having experienced a Current to the Westd. since leaving the Straits of Sunda. found this Island to be surround'd with dangerous Reefs, the one on itts NW extends many miles into the Sea. . . .
7321
73227.
7323
7324
7325
7326S. Latt. 20° 36' W. Long. 302° 19' E. Long. 57° 41'. Saw the Isle of France at Daylight. At Noon the South p[oin]t of Mauritius bore WNW 8 leagues very high uneven land. [60]
7327
73288.
7329
7330
7331
7332S. Latt. 21° 36' W. Long. 303° 38' E. Long. 56° 22'. Pleasent trade winds. Saw the Isle of Bourbon. At noon it bore NW 10 or 12 leagues. Exceeding mountanious. . . .
7333
733428.
7335
7336
7337
7338S. Latt. 33° 58' W. Long. 336° 13' E. Long. 23° 47' Ampd. 28° 28' W. Have had much blowing weather for some time. this day saw the land about Muscle Bay, 994 at 11 leagues dist[ance]. At Noon Cape Talhado bore NW. The Current has changed, and now sets strong to the SW. Wind from the Westward.
7339
7340-- 428 --
7341Off the Cape of Good Hope
7342
734329.
7344
7345
7346
7347S. Latt. 34° 12' W. Long. 337° 6' E. Long. 22° 54'. Soundings 45 f[atho]m Black sand, 2½ leagues from land, many smoakes on shore. At Noon the land in sight bore from North to ENE, a strong current in favour, wind right a head.
7348
734930.
7350
7351
7352
7353S. Latt. 34° 22' W. Long. 338° 3' E. Long. 21° 57' á». Many Gannetts and some seals round. Pass'd Cape St. Brass, saw the 7 Hills and a number of Fires on the shore through the Night. Generally keep about 5 leagues from the Coast. Wind a head. So Ends. . . .
7354
7355May 4.
7356
7357
7358
7359S. Latt. 35° 1' W. Long. 340° 0' E. Long. 20° 0' á». At length, thank God, the wind chang'd to the Eastward, made all sail, haul'd more to the Southward to clear Cape Lagullas. 995 [61]
7360
73615.
7362
7363
7364
7365S. Latt. 34° 40' W. Long. 340° 30' E. Long. 19° 30' á». Saw the Table land and Gunners Quoin to the E of False Bay. At Noon Cape Point Bore NW 10 leagues. Wind SE. Bore off to the Northd. and Westd. . . .
7366
7367St. Helena Island
7368
736925.
7370
7371
7372
7373S. Latt. 15° 54' W. Long. 5° 46'. Saw the Island of St. Helena at Sunsett. hove too for the night. Early in the morning sent a Boat in to ask permission of the Governor to anchor in the Bay. At 9 the Boat return'd, and the officer reported favourably. Bore off, and at 10 anchor'd in Chapell Vally bay, in 14 f[atho]m mud and sand, the Church bearing SE found riding here sevrall English India and Whale Ships waiting for convoy. at this place we first heard of the War and troubles in Europe, and that poor Louis was a head shorter. Capt. Gray landed to visit the Governor, Employ'd watering. The Lieutanent Governor (by name Robinson) paid us a visit. he appear'd to be an excellent Man and was anxious to obtain Curiositys from us, to put in his Museum he appear'd gratify'd with the Collection that was present'd him. I must confess that I was agreably suppriz'd on landing at James Town, for from the appearance it has from the Ship at Anchor you feel preposses'd against itt, but to me, when on shore, 'twas quite a pleasent place, and the sight of an English Lady made my heart feel all in an uproar, and alas! the
7374
7375-- 429 --
7376poor Sandwich Isle Girls where entirely forgot. So it is, and we cannot help itt. [62]
7377
737826.
7379
7380
7381
7382S. Latt. 15° 54' W. Long. 5° 46'. Finish'd watering, and Got ready for sea. I made an excursion in company with a Brother Officer to view the Company's Garden, and was amply rewarded for my trouble, 'twas kept in fine order. St. Helena had been visited by a famine not long since, which carried off the greatest part of their stock and greatly distress'd the inhabitants. Consequently cou'd not procure much refreshments for the Ship.
7383
7384The Island to the windward makes a most rugged appearance, and indeed in the Bay 'tis not much mended but to Leeward 'tis quite pleasent, and the roads, though the work of Art Chiefly, are far from being bad. The Inhabitants are very polite to strangers, and in short no Man after a long voyage ought to pass this pleasent and agreable place without stoping; you get the water with great ease, as it's convey'd to the Port by pipes under ground. You fill with a Hose, and are not oblidg'd to take the Casks from the Boat but in case you do, there is a Crane on the pier to load with. Shou'd have sail'd this evening but 'tis against the rules of the Port to sail after sunsett. . . .
7385
7386Bound for Boston
7387
7388June 3.
7389
7390
7391
7392S. Latt. 8° 32' W. Long. 15° 9' Azi. and Ampd. 11° 2' W., 10° 50' W.
7393
7394
7395. Pass'd the Isle of Assencion about midnight, at 2 miles dist[ance]. . . .
73969.
7397
7398
7399
7400N. Latt. 1° 10' W. Long. 22° 33' Ampd. 7° 41' W.
7401
7402
7403. This is the fourth time the Equator has been cross'd during the Voyage. . . . [63]
7404July 2.
7405
7406
7407
7408N. Latt. 24° 29' W. Long. 53° 11' Azi. 2° 46' W.
7409
7410
7411. Spoke an English Brig, under American colours, from New London, bound to Grenada, loaded with stock. Was oblidg'd to fire sevrall shot a head of him before he wou'd stop purchas'd out of her many Sheep and Hogs etc., with two tierces Bread this was quite a seasonable Supply, as we had been eating Maggotty bread for this some time.
74125.
7413
7414
7415
7416N. Latt. 25° 33' W. Long. 56° 13'. Spoke two Sloops from Portland for Guadal[oupe]. . . .
7417
7418-- 430 --
741918.
7420
7421
7422
7423N. Latt. 40° 17' W. Long. 65° 15' Variation 14° 55' W. Ỡ*. Spoke the Brig Betsey from New York Wm. Williams Master, bound to Amsterdam. have experienc'd much blowing weather from the North and West since leaving the Trades, and generally squalls of rain. Ships Crew are all in health, but anxious to get home as the Ship's provisions have grown quite bad and but little of itt left. . . .
7424
742521.
7426
7427
7428
7429N. Latt. 40° 29' W. Long. 68° 35' Azi. 7° 16' W. Dull times for men in a hurry. The Columbia is in fine order, having giv[en] the Riging a complete overhaul since leaving St. Helena, rounded too and got soundings 67 f[atho]m fine black and white sand.
7430
743122.
7432
7433
7434
7435N. Latt. 42° 11' W. Long. 68° 45'. At Sunsett sounded, in 38 f[atho]m gray sand Spoke a Sloop from Newbury port, bound to the West Indies, told us Cape Cod bore NW 30 leagues. At Midnight shoal'd our water pretty sudden from 20 to 15, 12, 10 and 8 f[atho]m fine white sand on Georges Shoal, haul'd to the East and soon deep'd it again to 30 f[atho]m. At Noon Latt. as above, sound[in]gs in 40 fathom. Wind from the WSW. Hard luck. [64]
7436
743724.
7438
7439
7440
7441Lower'd the yawl and sent her on board a fishing Schooner in sight to the westd., it being nearly calm. At Sunsett the boat return'd and Officer reported that the Skipper of the Schooner cou'd not spare any salt provisions, but sold us 3 Bar[re]l Salt Mackarell and about 300 Ship Biscuit. these last where very gratefull. divided them fore and aft among the Crew. a breeze sprang up from the Eastward, set all sail, and at daylight saw Cape Cod b[earin]g SW at 6 leagues, and the Gurnett W b S, the land abrest us on the South Shore, 4 leagues dist[ant]. sevrall sail in sight. Employ'd turning to Windward, the wind having shifted to the NW.
7442
7443Arrived at Boston
7444
744525.
7446
7447
7448
7449Light breezes and pleasent weather. At 1 PM nearly abrest of Cohassett rocks, almost Calm. At Sunsett we had got too near to Hassett Ledges by reason of the tide, however a small breeze sprang up and we san'd off. At daylight Boston Light bore W b N 3 leagues distant. At 8 AM A pilot came on board and took charge to take the Ship to Boston. At Meridian pass'd the Light house with a light air from the Eastward. At 6 we Pass'd Castle William, and gave
7450
7451-- 431 --
7452a federall salute, which was return'd. A fine Breeze at SE. At 7 anchored off the Long Wharfe in the Stream and saluted the town with 11 Guns which was return'd from the Wharfes with three welcome Huzzas.
7453
7454At making Boston Light, from which place we took our departure from, we have just made 360 degrees of Longitude West, which is the Circumference of our Globe. of course we have lost one complete day. It was Friday at Boston, and Thursday with us. 'Tis impossible to express our feelings at again meeting with our friends. But the loss of an affectionate and much lov'd Sister during my absence, was a great obstacle to the happiness I shou'd otherways have enjoy'd.
7455
7456So Ends the remarks on Columbia's Voyage.
7457
7458John Boit
7459
7460-- [435] --
7461
7462Remnant of the Official Log of the 'Columbia'
7463Extract from the Second Volume of the Log-Book of the Ship Columbia, of Boston, commanded by Robert Gray, containing the Account of her Entrance into the Columbia River, in May, 1792. 996
7464
7465May 7th, 1792, A.M.
7466
7467
7468
7469BEING within six miles of the land, saw an entrance in the same, which had a very good appearance of a harbor; lowered away the jolly-boat, and went in search of an anchoring-place, the ship standing to and fro, with a very strong weather current. At one, P.M., the boat returned, having found no place where the ship could anchor with safety; 997 made sail on the ship; stood in for the shore. We soon saw, from our mast-head, a passage in between the sand-bars. At half past three, bore away, and ran in north-east by east, having from four to eight fathoms, sandy bottom; and, as we drew in nearer between the bars, had from ten to thirteen fathoms, having a very strong tide of ebb to stem. Many canoes came alongside. At five, P.M., came to in five fathoms water, sandy bottom, in a safe harbor, well sheltered from the sea by long sand-bars and spits. Our latitude observed this day was 46 degrees 58 minutes north.
7470
7471May 10th.
7472
7473
7474
7475Fresh breezes and pleasant weather; many natives alongside; at noon all the canoes left us. At one, P.M., began to unmoor, took up the best bower-anchor, and hove short on the small bower-anchor. At half past four, (being high water,) hove up the anchor, and came to sail and a beating down the harbor. 998
7476
7477-- 436 --
7478May 11th.
7479
7480
7481
7482At half past seven, we were out clear of the bars, and directed our course to the southward, along shore. 999 At eight, P.M, the entrance of Bulfinch's Harbor bore north, distance four miles; the southern extremity of the land bore south-south-east half east, and the northern north-north-west; sent up the main-top-gallant-yard and set all sail. At four, A.M., saw the entrance of our desired port bearing east-south-east, distance six leagues; in steering sails, and hauled our wind in shore. At eight, A.M., being a little to wind-ward of the entrance of the Harbor, bore away, and run in east-north-east between the breakers, having from five to seven fathoms of water. When we were over the bar, we found this to be a large river of fresh water, up which we steered. Many canoes came alongside. At one, P.M., came to with the small bower, in ten fathoms, black and white sand. 1000 The entrance between the bars bore west-south-west, distant ten miles; the north side of the river a half mile distant from the ship; the south side of the same two and a half miles' distance; a village on the north side of the river west by north, distant three quarters of a mile. Vast numbers of natives came along-side; people employed in pumping the salt water out of our water-casks, in order to fill with fresh, while the ship floated in. So ends.
7483
7484May 12th.
7485
7486
7487
7488Many natives alongside; noon, fresh wind; let go the best bower-anchor, and veered out on both cables; sent down the main-top-gallant-yard; filled up all the water-casks in the hold. The latter part, heavy gales, and rainy, dirty weather.
7489
7490May 13th.
7491
7492
7493
7494Fresh winds and rainy weather; many natives alongside; hove up the best bower-anchor; seamen and tradesmen at their various departments.
7495
7496May 14th.
7497
7498
7499
7500Fresh gales and cloudy; many natives alongside; at noon, weighed and came to sail, standing up the river north-east by east; we found the channel very narrow. At four, P.M., we had sailed upwards of twelve or fifteen miles, when the channel was so very narrow that it was almost impossible to keep in it, having
7501
7502-- 437 --
7503from three to eighteen fathoms water, sandy bottom. At half past four, the ship took ground, but she did not stay long before she came off, without any assistance. We backed her off, stern foremost, into three fathoms, and let go the small bower, and moored ship with kedge and hawser. The jolly-boat was sent to sound the channel out, but found it not navigable farther up; so, of course, we must have taken the wrong channel. So ends, 1001 with rainy weather; many natives alongside.
7504
7505May 15th.
7506
7507
7508
7509Light airs and pleasant weather; many natives from different tribes came alongside. At ten, A.M., unmoored and dropped down with the tide to a better anchoring-place; smiths and other tradesmen constantly employed. In the afternoon, Captain Gray and Mr. Hoskins, in the jolly-boat, went on shore to take a short view of the country.
7510
7511May 16th.
7512
7513
7514
7515Light airs and cloudy. At four, A.M., hove up the anchor and towed down about three miles, with the last of the ebb-tide; came into six fathoms, sandy bottom, the jolly-boat sounding the channel. At ten, A.M., a fresh breeze came up river. With the first of the ebb-tide we got under way, and beat down river. At one, (from its being very squally,) we came to, about two miles from the village, (Chinouk,) which bore west-south-west; many natives alongside; fresh gales and squally. 1002
7516
7517May 17th.
7518
7519
7520
7521Fresh winds and squally; many canoes alongside; calkers calking the pinnace; seamen paying the ship's sides with tar; painter painting ship; smiths and carpenters at their departments.
7522
7523May 18th.
7524
7525
7526
7527Pleasant weather. At four in the morning, began to heave ahead; at half past, came to sail, standing down river with the ebb-tide; at seven, (being slack water and the wind fluttering,) we came to in five fathoms, sandy bottom; the entrance between the bars bore south-west by west, distant three miles. The north point of the harbor bore north-west, distant two miles; the south bore
7528
7529-- 438 --
7530south-east, distant three and a half miles. At nine, a breeze came up from the eastward; took up the anchor and came to sail, but the wind soon came fluttering again; came to with the kedge and hawser; veered out fifty fathoms. Noon, pleasant. Latitude observed, 46 degrees 17 minutes north. At one, came to sail with the first of the ebb-tide, and drifted down broadside, with light airs and strong tide; at three quarters past, a fresh wind came from the northward; wore ship, and stood into the river again. At four, came to in six fathoms; good holding-ground about six or seven miles up; many canoes alongside. 1003
7531
7532May 19th.
7533
7534
7535
7536Fresh wind and clear weather. Early a number of canoes came alongside; seamen and tradesmen employed in their various departments. Captain Gray gave this river the name of Columbia's River, and the north side of the entrance Cape Hancock, the south, Adams's Point.
7537
7538May 20th.
7539
7540
7541
7542Gentle breezes and pleasant weather. At one, P.M., (being full sea,) took up the anchor, and made sail, standing down river. At two, the wind left us, we being on the bar with a very strong tide, which set on the breakers; it was now not possible to get out without a breeze to shoot her across the tide; so we were obliged to bring up in three and a half fathoms, the tide running five knots. At three quarters past two, a fresh wind came in from seaward; we immediately came to sail, and beat over the bar, having from five to seven fathoms water in the channel. At five, P.M., we were out, clear of all the bars, and in twenty fathoms water. A breeze came from the southward; we bore away to the northward; set all sail to the best advantage. At eight, Cape Hancock bore south-east, distant three leagues; the north extremity of the land in sight bore north by west. At nine, in steering and top-gallant sails. Midnight, light airs.
7543
7544May 21st.
7545
7546
7547
7548At six, A.M., the nearest land in sight bore east-south-east, distant eight leagues. At seven, set top-gallant-sails and light stay-sails. At eleven, set steering-sails fore and aft. Noon, pleasant, agreeable weather. The entrance of Bulfinch's Harbor bore south-east by east half east, distant five leagues.
7549
7550-- [441] --
7551
7552Miscellaneous Papers Relating to the Second Voyage of the Columbia
7553Sea Letter from the President of the United States to Robert Gray
75541004To all emperors, kings, sovereign princes, states, and regents, and to their respective officers, civil and military, and to all others whom it may concern.
7555
7556I, George Washington, President of the United States of America, do make known that Robert Gray, captain of the ship called the Columbia, of the burden of about two hundred and thirty tons, is a citizen of the said United States; and that the said ship which he commands belongs to citizens of the said United States; and, as I wish that the said Robert Gray may prosper in his lawful affairs, I do request of all the before mentioned, and of each of them, separately, where the said Robert Gray shall arrive with his vessel and cargo, that they will be pleased to receive him with kindness and treat him in a becoming manner; permitting him, on the usual tolls and expenses in passing and repassing, to navigate, pass, and frequent their ports, passes, and territories, to the end that he may transact his business where and in what manner he shall judge proper; and thereby I shall consider myself obliged.
7557
7558In testimony whereof, I have caused the seal of the United States to be affixed to these presents, and have hereunto set my hand, at the city of New York, the sixteenth day of September, in the year of our Lord one thousand seven hundred and ninety.
7559
7560Go. Washington
7561
7562By the President:
7563
7564Th. Jefferson
7565
7566-- 442 --
7567
7568Sea Letter from the Governor of Massachusetts to Robert Gray
7569COMMONWEALTH OF MASSACHUSETTS
7570
7571By his excellency John Hancock, esq., governor of the Commonwealth of Massachusetts.
7572
7573
7574
7575To all who shall see these presents -- greeting:
7576
7577IT is hereby made known that leave and permission has been given by the naval officers to Captain Robert Gray, master and commander of the ship Columbia, now lying at Boston, within this State, to depart from thence and proceed with his ship and cargo on a voyage to the northwest coast of America; and that the said ship and cargo belong to Joseph Barrell, esquire, and others, gentlemen of character and reputation, citizens of this Commonwealth -- being one of the thirteen United States of America.
7578
7579Now, in order that the said master may prosper in his lawful affairs, it is earnestly requested and recommended to all who may see these presents, at whatever port and place said master, with his vessel and cargo, may arrive, that they would please to receive him, the said master, with goodness; afford him all such aid and assistance as he may need; and to treat him in a becoming manner, permitting him, upon paying the usual expenses in passing and repassing, to pass, navigate, and frequent the ports, passes, and territories wherever he may be, to the end that he may transact his business where and in what manner he shall judge proper, he keeping, and causing to be kept by his crew on board, the marine ordinances and regulations of the place where he is trading.
7580
7581Given under my hand and the seal of the Commonwealth aforesaid, this twenty fourth day of September, A.D. 1790, and in the fifteenth year of the independence of the United States of America.
7582
7583John Hancock
7584
7585By his excellency's command:
7586
7587John Avery, Jr., Secretary
7588
7589-- 443 --
7590
7591Certificate of the Columbia's Cargo
7592UNITED STATES OF AMERICA
7593
7594District of Boston and Charlestown, in the Commonwealth of Massachusetts
7595
7596
7597
7598THESE certify all whom it may concern, that Robert Gray, master and commander of the ship Columbia, burden two hundred and twelve 95th tons or thereabouts, navigated with thirty men, mounted with ten guns, has permission to depart from this port with the following articles, viz: Two thousand bricks, six chaldrons sea coal, one hundred and thirty-five barrels beef, sixty barrels pork, three hogsheads N. E. rum, two hogsheads W. I. rum, five hogsheads molasses, five barrels sugar, ten boxes chocolate, two hundred and twenty-eight pounds coffee, seventy-two pounds Bohea tea, six casks rice, twenty barrels flour, twenty-seven thousand pounds ship bread, six firkins butter, five hundred pounds cheese, thirty barrels tar, thirteen barrels pitch, thirty packages of merchandise, six tons bar iron, twenty hundred bar lead, fifteen hundred pounds gun-powder, three hundred pounds small shot.
7599
7600Given under our hands and seals at Boston aforesaid, the twenty-fifth day of September, in the year of our Lord one thousand seven hundred and ninety.
7601
7602B. Lincoln, Collector
7603
7604James Lovell, Naval Officer
7605
7606Joseph Barrell's Instructions to Robert Gray
7607Boston, September 25, 1790
7608
7609Sir:
7610
7611THE ship Columbia being completely equipped for a voyage to the northwest coast of America, China, and elsewhere, we place such confidence in you as to give you the command.
7612
7613In all matters of traffic on the northwest coast of America, China, or elsewhere, you will consult with Mr. John Hoskins, who is with you, in whose industry, integrity, and honor we place the utmost confidence; we therefore expect the most perfect harmony to subsist between you, your officers, and him.
7614
7615-- 444 --
7616It is of importance, and we therefore enjoin it upon you, that the most friendly intercourse be observed in all your traffic with the natives, and no unjust advantage taken of them in trade, but endeavor, by your honorable conduct, to impress them with a respect for Americans.
7617
7618You will touch at the several ports on the coast, as you shall think best; but you must bear in mind that there are several American vessels on the trade, and you will therefore make such despatch on your voyage as shall prevent your being overtaken by any of them; and to reach the coast before the brig, which has already sailed, as it must be of great importance.
7619
7620At any time, at the close of a season, when you have furs sufficient, you may despatch the sloop (which we call the Nootka) 1005 with them to market, if you should think it best under all circumstances; but you will bear in mind, if the sloop should be lost, the injury would be irreparable, and, if you should send her, be sure you give such orders, that whoever goes may avoid the excessive charges of going up to Canton; and, from the experience we have had, it appears plainly a much higher price may be obtained at the mouth of the river of Canton than in the city; we would therefore advise your selling at the mouth of the river.
7621
7622If you should send the sloop at any time, we would have Mr. Hoskins go with her, and he will apply to such persons as will assist him in disposing of the furs to the best advantage for the interest of the concerned.
7623
7624We depend that the ship remains on the coast until your provisions are consumed, and longer if you find the trade advantageous, and can get the supplies you want.
7625
7626When you leave the coast in the ship, we advise to your trying what can be done on the coast of Japan and Pekin, where, if you find safety in anchoring, and can dispose of your furs to advantage, we would advise you by all means to do it.
7627
7628You are strictly enjoined not to touch at any port of the Spanish dominions on the western continent of America, unless driven there by unavoidable accident, in which case you will stay no longer than
7629
7630-- 445 --
7631is necessary, and while there, be careful to give no offence to any of the subjects of his Catholic Majesty, nor on any pretence whatever trade for a single farthing, unless for the supplies you may want, and let that be done under the immediate eye and sanction of authority.
7632
7633Your sea-letters, and letters from this State, you will produce upon all proper occasions, and treat the subjects of every nation you meet with civility and respect, offering no insult to any, nor receiving any without showing the becoming spirit of a free, independent American.
7634
7635You will give orders to whoever may command the sloop, should you send her with furs, to call upon Mr. McIntire, at Macao, for orders from the owners, with whom they will be lodged, or with some American at Canton; and any orders you or they may find there from them, you are to follow. You can send an officer to Canton from the sloop at a little expense. You will write us by all possible opportunities, any letters by way of Macao, to the care of Mr. John McIntire; by way of France, to Messrs. Le Couteaula & Co., at Paris; by way of Portugal, to Messrs. Paseley, Little, & Co., Lisbon; by way of London, to Messrs. Lane, Son, & Frazer.
7636
7637In case of sickness or death, (which God forbid!) your successor is hereby enjoined to consult with Mr. Hoskins, in the same manner as though these orders were orginally to himself.
7638
7639You will constantly bear in mind the absolute prohibition against every sort of traffic, or receiving any presents on this voyage; for, be assured, the owners will treat every breach of the contract in this particular with the utmost severity.
7640
7641We hope it is needless to remind you that you are now accountable for the conduct of the present voyage. You have seen and heard the pointed manner in which every one condemns the conduct of the last; 1006 and if you have a spirit proper for this enterprise, or any regard for your own honor and rising reputation, or have respect to the sea-letters with which the President of the United States has honored and indulged you, we trust you will doubly exert yourself to prevent such reflections in future.
7642
7643-- 446 --
7644When you leave the coast, and arrive at Macao, Canton, or elsewhere, and can dispose of your ship to your mind, if you can provide for your people without too much cost, you are at liberty to do it, and remit the proceeds in bills on the Dutch Company, payable in London, if it can be done at a rate which we are informed is common -- say five shillings and sixpence sterling for a dollar. Remit the bills to Lane, Son, & Frazer, merchants in London, for account of the owners of the Columbia.
7645
7646In case you sell your ship, you are on no terms to hold any part yourself, as we are willing to go hand in hand in this concern, and sink or swim together; and, as we wish no advantage ourselves, but what you share with us, so we mean to avoid any partial disadvantage.
7647
7648We think it important, as the voyage proposed is of very long duration, to enjoin system, good order, prudence, and economy, which, with a tender treatment of the men under your command, will show you to be a father to your crew, and cannot fail to secure their love and obedience, and to remove all those ill conveniences which forever attend a contrary conduct.
7649
7650For your encouragement, and that of your officers, we engage to allow you five per cent.; to the first mate, one and one-half per cent.; to the second mate, one per cent.; to the third mate, one-half per cent. upon the sales of the cargo in Boston. But you, neither as owner, or on account of your commissions as master, nor any officer on board, on account of their commissions or per cent. on the cargo, shall, upon any consideration, take anything from the stock in China, or elsewhere, unless what may be needful to furnish clothes or other necessaries, but the whole interest shall continue on joint account of all concerned, and be divided in Boston at the close of the voyage.
7651
7652We expect you do not stop until you reach the Falkland islands; nor then, a moment longer than is absolutely necessary. And we think it advisable that you sweep the northwest coast before you stop to set up the sloop.
7653
7654We think it best you should form no connexion with foreigners, or Americans, on the northwest coast, unless absolutely necessary; nor then, but with the greatest caution.
7655
7656If the wind is fair on the morrow, we desire and expect you will
7657
7658-- 447 --
7659embrace it and proceed on the voyage. And may God prosper you! I am, for myself and the owners, your friend and employer,
7660
7661Joseph Barrell
7662
7663Officers and Crew of the Columbia
7664Ship Collumbia ofisers and Crew
7665
7666Capt gray Comand[er]
7667
7668M[r] Haswell C Mate
7669
7670Mr Caswell 2d Mate kild
7671
7672Owing Smith 3d mate
7673
7674Abraham Wartis 4d mate
7675
7676John Boit 5d mate
7677
7678John Hoskins Clark
7679
7680Saml Homer and Jack atoe Cab[i]n Boys
7681
7682Bengaman Harden Botswain
7683
7684Saml Yendell Carpentar
7685
7686Nathan Dweley mate
7687
7688John Emes Blacksmith
7689
7690Popkins Arm[or]er
7691
7692Bart peas Coopp[e]r
7693
7694Tom Cook of Ship
7695
7696Seman Joseph Barns
7697John Butler
7698Bryant Winle
7699anteny Lows
7700Joseph Folger
7701Andrew Newhil
7702Elsworth and Weks
7703obediar weston Sail Maker
7704green Hands Isack
7705ginnings
7706Sheperd
7707gorg Daiveson
77081007
7709
7710painter
7711Nickels Tailor
7712Nathanl Wooward Coker
7713-- 448 --
7714
7715Expenditures for the Columbia's Outfit and Cargo Ship Columbia, for Outfitts, Cargo, etc. etc
7716
7717-- 449 --
7718
7719-- 450 --
7720
7721-- 451 --
7722
7723-- 452 --
7724
7725-- 453 --
7726
7727-- 454 --
7728
7729-- 455 --
7730
7731-- 456 --
7732
7733-- 457 --
7734
7735-- 458 --
7736
7737-- 459 --
7738
7739-- 460 --
7740
7741-- 461 --
7742
7743-- 462 --
7744
7745-- 463 --
7746
7747-- 464 --
7748
7749-- 465 --
7750
7751Ship Columbia second Voyage to the N. W. Coast of America
7752Dr. Cr.
7753To Ship Columbia as she came from Sea £1000 Saml. Browne 3/14ths £1340 2 9
7754To Outfitts, Provisions, Tools and Cargo as per the Acc[oun]t annexed 5242 10 4 Thos. Bulfinch 2/14ths 893 8 6
7755To Cash paid Discounts at the Bank for money on Pintard's 1/7th 11 9 8 Crowell Hatch 2/14ths 893 8 6
7756R. Gray, Davenport and McLean 2/14ths 893 8 6
7757Jos. Barrell 5/14ths 2233 11 9
7758£6254 £6254
7759-- 466 --
7760
7761John Hoskins and Robert Gray to Joseph Barrell
7762On board Ship Columbia
7763
7764Nantasket road Thursday 30 Septr. 1790
7765
7766Sir:
7767
7768NO doubt you will be surprised to hear from me at this place but I suppos'd you w[oul]d be glad to hear the ship was safe when I inform'd you by the Pilot we had a free wind and should go to Sea as fast as possible all that day and the next day we saild with the winds variable from ESE to E in hopes to get clear of the Land before the gale but in the night we were becalm'd and in the morning the wind sprang up briskly from the NE and blew a heavy gale we were then of Truro in Cape Cod it was then thought best for the safety of the Ship to run into Cape Cod which we did and came to Anchor about 7 o'Clock at night in Barnstable Bay -- as we then lay 'twas impossible to put to Sea should the wind come fair it was again thought best to weigh anchor and stand out of the Bay and should the wind come fair we could go to Sea and should it not we could run for Boston accordingly about 9 o'Clock we weigh'd with a heavy gale all day from NE to SE and about 10 o'Clock at night we came to Anchor in the Light house Channel this morning we again weigh'd and run into this place w[h]ere we are safe at Anchor impatiently awaiting for a fair wind -- all on Board are well and hearty Capt. Grays best respects to you and the Gentlemen.
7769
7770Will you be pleased to make my best respects to all your family -- to the Gentlemen of the Concern'd and accept the same yourself and be assur'd Sir that I am with the most unfeigned Gratitude
7771
7772Your and their most
7773
7774Devoted and much Obliged
7775
7776Humble Servant
7777
7778John Hoskins for self and Robert Gray
7779
7780P.S. I inclose a Letter for my mother which you would oblige me by sending to her.
7781
7782-- 467 --
7783
7784Robert Gray and John Hoskins to Joseph Barrell
7785On board the Ship Columbia at Sea in Latitude 5° No. Longitude 24° West,
7786
7787November 13th 1790
7788
7789Sir
7790
7791WE sail'd from Nantasket road the morning after we left you with a fair wind. Mr. Woodward did not arrive before we sailed and we thought it not worth while to wait for him consequently we did not get the Beans and other things you sent. Capt. Gray wishes you Sir to call at the Custom House for the Ship Columbia's Grand Chop 1008 or China clearance which he left there when he enter'd the Ship (Capt. Magee 1009 or Mr. Perkins 1010 can tell it) and send it out to Canton by the first good safe hand as he expects should he go to Canton to save at least half the duties by having it. We are all pretty well the Gentlemen join us in best respects to you and the owners.
7792
7793We are your most humble Servants
7794
7795Robert Gray
7796
7797John Hoskins
7798
7799Robert Gray and John Hoskins to Joseph Barrell
7800On board Ship Columbia at Sea
7801
7802November 14, 1790
7803
7804Sir
7805
7806THE foregoing is a Copy of what we wrote you yesterday by a portuguese Ship bound to the Coast of Brazil, we avail'd ourselves of the first opportunity not knowing when we should have another, but well convinc'd it would be a long time before you receiv'd it yet we thought that news from us though a long time coming
7807
7808-- 468 --
7809would be agreeable to you and the owners and the necessity of our having the Grand Chop to save duties at China.
7810
7811We are with all respect
7812
7813Sir your most humble Servants
7814
7815Robert Gray
7816
7817John Hoskins 1011
7818
7819Robert Gray and John Hoskins to Joseph Barrell
7820Ship Columbia of Cape Percival
7821
7822Falkland Islands Feby. 2d 1791
7823
7824Sir
7825
7826WE this day came out of New Island Harbor, 1012 where we arrived 10 days since, after a long, tedious passage of 113 days, we have been wind bound four days, all hearty and well on board -- we still hope to get safe round Cape Horn and be early on the Coast; depend on it every thing will be done to give us as short a passage as possible.
7827
7828We have already wrote you by two opportunitys, the one via Lisbon, the other Bristol, requesting you, to send the Ship Columbia's Grand Chop to Canton, as soon as possible, because it will be a saving of a great part of the duties, which are very high there.
7829
7830The Gentlemen Officers are well, and desire there best respects to you and the other Gentlemen, with whom join, Sir, your and their most devoted
7831
7832and much obliged,
7833
7834Humble Servants
7835
7836Robert Gray
7837
7838John Hoskins
7839
7840Sir, will you be so good as to let my mother know I am hearty and well Yours J. Hoskins
7841
7842-- 469 --
7843
7844Robert Gray and John Hoskins to Joseph Barrell
7845Ship Columbia NW Coast of America
7846
7847Lattitude 55°0' North, 15th August 1791
7848
7849Sir
7850
7851WE arrived safe on this Coast the 4th June last, we have done every thing that was possible for the Concern'd. This night at 12 oClock we spoke the Brig Hancock Capt. Crowell from Boston and were much disappointed at receiving no letters from you: Mr. Hatch the chief mate has promis'd to deliver this. We three days ago met with an unfortunate accident, our second mate Joshua Caswell of Malden, and two of our seamen were massacreed by the natives of this place; (the seamen's names were Jo. Barns and John Folger) at a short distance from the Ship in the Jollyboat, we got the boat and the body of Mr. Caswell which we decently interr'd. Capt. Ingraham has arriv'd safe on the Coast, about the same time we did. The Officers requests their particular respects to you and the Gentlemen of the concern'd.
7852
7853We are Sir with all respects
7854
7855Your most humble servants
7856
7857Robert Gray
7858
7859John Hoskins
7860
7861P.S. sir, you'l please to let my mama know that I am well. Mr. Boit also requests you'l let his parent know he is in health.
7862
7863Robert Gray and John Hoskins to Joseph Barrell
7864Ship Columbia Washington's Islands
7865
7866Latitude 53°5' North, 22d August 1791
7867
7868Sir
7869
7870WE wrote you a few days since by Capt. Adamson, and now embrace this by Capt. Ingraham. we arrived safe on this Coast about three months ago, and have done everything possible for the concern'd. in the Latitude of 55°30' North we were so unfortunate as to loose our second mate Joshua Caswell and two of our
7871
7872-- 470 --
7873men, who were massacreed by the natives. as yet we have not built the sloop, 1013 nor do we intend it 'till we go into winter quarters; we expect to start early with her in the spring and will endeavour to shorten our voyage as much as possible. depend nothing will be wanting on our part to do every thing in our power for the concern'd. the Gentlemen requests their respects to you and the gentlemen of the concern'd, with whom join your and their
7874
7875Most obliged and very Humble Servants
7876
7877Robert Gray
7878
7879John Hoskins
7880
7881please to inform my mama I am well. Yours J. H.
7882
7883John Kendrick to Joseph Barrell
7884Macoa, in China, Mar. 28, 1792
7885
7886Joseph Barrell, Esquire
7887
7888Dear Sir:
7889
7890THIS will be handed you by Mr. Ebenezer Dorr, who goes to America in the Brig Fairy, Captain Wm. Rogers, and does serve to inform you that I arrived again at Macoa on the 7th of December last, from the North West Coast of America with a Cargo of one thousand Sea Otter Skins, 1014 which I have but just sold for the sum of twenty one thousand Spanish head dollars, on account of a total prohibition having taken place among the Chinese with regard to the Fur Trade. However, I am now fitting out the Brig for another voyage to the North West Coast, where it is my intention to winter, consequently shall not be in China again until the month of November, 1793. 1015 It is very expensive in fitting out a vessel from this place, and the Chinese would not permit me to go to Canton with my Cargo this season on account of the prohibition.
7891
7892-- 471 --
7893I have often attempted to send letters to you, but have as often been disappointed, through the many difficulties attendant; being greatly embarrassed when at Macoa, the Portuguese Government would not suffer me to enter their Port with my Vessel to refit. I also found it very difficult to get provisions, sails, riggings, etc., and thus situated I unfortunately lost the season; by which means it brought the Vessel near ten thousand dollars in debt -- Therefore I was obliged to make use of Martineses Moneys, 1016 and also to borrow three thousand dollars more to enable me to proceed the voyage. I was prepared to have sent despatches by the Columbia, but she sailed contrary to my orders or expectations, otherwise something handsome might have been sent you from me.
7894
7895Many may have been the reports to you respecting the sale of the Sloop, but I assure it was nothing but a sham sale, 1017 merely to help me through my difficulties and troubles. I sold the Cargo of the Sloop when I first arrived at Macoa for the sum of eighteen thousand dollars, and Martineses Furs for eight thousand dollars.
7896
7897Being thus circumstanced and so situated at present, I can not send the papers I would wish. However, as I wish to convince you I have strove the utmost in my power for the benefit and interest of the concerned, therefore will now make you this proposal, which I hope will be satisfactory to you, which is for me either to continue in the employ as usual or I will take the Brig on my own account from the 16th of April, 1790, and abide by all losses and gains from that date; for which I will allow you the sum of fourteen thousand dollars with an interest of 12 per cent from that date until payment is made and in case I should not make a good voyage my credit is such in China that you can depend on the monies being remitted to you or paid to your Canton Attorneys, or Agents on my arrival from the North West Coast in the year 1793.
7898
7899The Vessel is now so far in debt, that I really wish not to turn her on your hands, and am altogether willing to conduct according to
7900
7901-- 472 --
7902your determination, but it is sincerely my opinion that my offer is most advantageous.
7903
7904In case I am continued in the employ (as Captain and Super Cargo) and am to proceed as usual, according to our first agreement when I left Boston, I shall consider the Columbia as consigned to me, and shall expect a commission on the sales, and purchases of her cargoes of this her second voyage to the North West Coast of America, etc. Otherwise I shall expect to receive customary perquisites and emoluments which is allowed to commanders and super cargoes who transact business to and from China to the North West Coast of America, which is five hundred see Rupees per month as wages for a commander, and five per cent commissions as super cargo. You will therefore consult your own interest and I shall continue to exert myself to the utmost of my abilities for the benefit of the concerned, etc., and shall want your final decision on the subject, and your answer to this will inform me how to proceed, and I shall conduct accordingly. 1018
7905
7906In my last Voyage I purchased of the natives five tracts of land and copies of the deeds which was signed shall be sent you the first opportunity. 1019
7907
7908Your letter per Captain Gray I received, but found it different from what I expected, as I thought to have the conducting of all your business in this part of the world, and had the Columbia been sent to me, it would have been much more to the benefit of the concerned, as she could have returned to America this season.
7909
7910I am confident you have been told many untruths respecting the voyage, and matters have been represented in a wrong light, neither have you had true accounts rendered into you, for I can prove that the Furs which were on board the Columbia, when she arrived at Canton was sold by Messrs. Shaw & Randle for twenty-six thousand dollars and upwards, and might have been sold for much more. But there was too much smuggling, and the officers even encouraged the
7911
7912-- 473 --
7913people to follow their examples, they have not only made their boasts, and told of it themselves. When I was on the Coast the last voyage the natives gave me information of their selling numbers of skins to the officers and people, which was sold at Canton, and the Chinese have since informed me of numbers sold them, one lot in particular of thirty-six skins. Thus you will find how things have been conducted, and after giving you these hints, Sir, would recommend it to you to look into the matter, 1020 as you have a very good opportunity of redressing yourself; and you may depend on my honor and integrity, in giving you every intelligence, and assistance in my next, which will be in a few days, and further you may rely on my rendering you a proper statement of my affairs and transactions, and am, Sir, firm and steady to my first agreement, and am content to stay and prosecute the voyage or voyages to the end; and for many particulars relative to this matter I would refer you to Mr. Dorr as he is now waiting, and am Sir, with much esteem your very humble servant.
7914
7915John Kendrick
7916
7917John Hoskins and Robert Gray to Joseph Barrell
7918Ship Columbia Woody point
7919
7920July 12th 1792
7921
7922Sir
7923
7924WE wrote you by the several opportunities, which presented the last season, since which we have built the Sloop and called her the Adventure, in which Capt. Haswell is now on a Cruize to the northward.
7925
7926we received your Letters per Capt. Magee, the contents we note and shall follow your instructions.
7927
7928our Cargo is nearly expended, and though not at so good a rate as we could wish, yet we hope at least to make a saving voyage; Skins being a hundred per Cent dearer this season than they were the last, besides we have very discouraging accounts from Canton.
7929
7930the natives from the arms and ammunition they have received,
7931
7932-- 474 --
7933have become expert marksmen and exceedingly troublesome. there are as many vessels on the Coast this season, as there were the last.
7934
7935all well on board, this Spring we buried our Boatswain, 1021 who was the only sick man we had.
7936
7937Our officers beg their best respects to you and the Owners, in which they are most sincerely join'd by your and their, most obliged, and most devoted Servants
7938
7939John Hoskins for self and
7940
7941Robert Gray
7942
7943h r k k -- Sea otters
7944
7945y k k k -- Land furs
7946
7947Robert Gray and Joseph Ingraham to Don Juan Francisco de la Bodega y Quadra
79481022 Nootka Sound, August 3d, 1792
7949
7950Sir,
7951
7952YOUR esteemed favor was handed to us yesterday, requesting from us information relative to the transactions between the English and Spaniards in this sound, in the year 1789, which we will do with great pleasure, and impartially, as you request.
7953
7954On the 5th of May, 1789, when Don Estevan Josß Martinez arrived in Friendly Cove, he found riding at anchor there the Iphigenia only; the ship Columbia being at Mahwhinna, five miles up the sound. The sloop Washington and North-West America (schooner) were on a cruise. This information is necessary in order to regulate the sequel of the present. After the usual ceremonies of meeting were over, Don Martinez requested the papers of each vessel, and demanded why they were at anchor in Nootka Sound, alleging it belonged to his Catholic majesty. Captain Viana, who passed as commander of the Iphigenia, answered, they had put in, being in distress, having but little provisions, and in great want of every necessary, such as cables, anchors, rigging, sails, etc.; that they were in
7955
7956-- 475 --
7957daily expectation of the arrival of Captain Meares from Macao, to supply them, when they should depart. Captain Meares was expected to return in the same vessel he sailed in from hence in the year 1788, which was under the Portuguese colors, and had a Portuguese captain on board: this vessel, with the Iphigenia, were said to belong to one Cravalia, or Cavallo, a merchant of Macao, in whose name the Iphigenia's papers were made out. Seeing the Iphigenia was in such want, Don Martinez gave them a temporary assistance, by supplying them with such articles as they were most in want, till the vessel before mentioned should arrive. At this time there was not the least suspicion of any misunderstanding or disturbance among us, as Don Martinez was apparently satisfied with the answers each vessel had given to his request.
7958
7959However, on the 10th of May, the San Carlos, Captain Arrow, [Haro,] arrived. The same day the American officers came to Uquot, or Friendly Cove, to welcome them in; and the next morning, the 11th of May, Don Martinez captured the Iphigenia, and his reason, as we understand, was, that, in their Portuguese instructions, they had orders to capture any English, Spanish, or Russian, subjects they met on the northwest coast of America. This, at the time, seemed improbable, as she was a vessel of small force; and it was afterwards found to have been a mistake, owing to their want of a perfect knowledge of the Portuguese language. However, after the vessel was taken, the officers and seamen were divided, some on board the Princesa, and some on board the San Carlos, where they were treated with all imaginable kindness, and every attention paid them.
7960
7961On the 24th of May, the above-mentioned mistake being discovered, the Iphigenia was returned again, and the Portuguese flag hoisted on board her: the same day, Captain Douglas, with the Portuguese captain and seamen, repaired on board. The Iphigenia, while in possession of the Spaniards, from being a wreck was put in complete order for sea, being calked, rigging and sails repaired, anchors and cables sent from the Princesa, etc. On the 26th, Don Martinez supplied them with every kind of provisions they were in need of, for which Captain Douglas gave him bills on Cravalia, the before-mentioned merchant of Macao. On the 31st, the Iphigenia sailed, and was saluted by the Spanish fort; and the commodore accompanied
7962
7963-- 476 --
7964them out of the harbor, giving every assistance with boats, etc. When Captain Douglas took his leave of the commodore, he declared he should ever entertain a sense of Don Martinez's kindness, deeming his conduct relative to the vessel no more than his duty as a king's officer. Upon the whole, we both believe the Iphigenia's being detained was of infinite service to those who were concerned in her. This must be plain to every one who will consider the situation of the vessel when the Princesa arrived, and the advantages reaped from the supplies and assistance of the Spaniards. The detention, if it may be called so, could be no detriment; for, had nothing taken place, she must have remained two months longer at least, having, as has already been mentioned, put into port, being in distress. Of course they could not have sailed till supplies arrived, which was not till July, as will appear in the sequel: whereas, being early fitted, as above mentioned, she sailed on the coast northward of Nootka Sound, and there being no other vessel there, they collected upwards of seven hundred sea otter skins; which has been often represented to us by Captain Douglas and his officers, after our arrival in China. This may suffice for the transactions relative to the Iphigenia. Before Captain Douglas sailed, he gave Don Estevan Martinez a letter to Mr. Funter, master of the schooner North-West America, telling him, from Captain Meares's not arriving at the appointed time, there was great reason to fear the vessel he sailed from Nootka in had never reached China, (she being in bad condition when she sailed from this place;) therefore, as he, Mr. Funter, must, on his arrival, be destitute of every necessary, he was at liberty to conduct as he thought most conducive to the interests of his employers. We shall make mention of this vessel again hereafter.
7965
7966Interim, we observe your wish to be acquainted what house or establishment Mr. Meares had at the time the Spaniards arrived here. We answer in a word, None. On the arrival of the Columbia, in the year 1788, there was a house, or rather a hut, consisting of rough posts, covered with boards, made by the Indians; but this Captain Douglas pulled to pieces, prior to his sailing for the Sandwich Islands, the same year. The boards he took on board the Iphigenia, and the roof he gave to Captain Kendrick, which was cut up and used as firewood on board the Columbia; so that, on the arrival of Don
7967
7968-- 477 --
7969Estevan J. Martinez, there was no vestige of any house remaining. As to the land Mr. Meares said he purchased of Maquinna or any other chief, we cannot say further than we never heard of any; although we remained among these people nine months, and could converse with them perfectly well. Besides this, we have asked Maquinna and other chiefs, since our late arrival, if Captain Meares ever purchased any land in Nootka Sound; they answered, No; that Captain Kendrick was the only man to whom they had ever sold any land.
7970
7971On the 8th of June, the schooner North-West America arrived, and the next day the Spaniards took possession of her. Don E. J. Martinez had an account taken of the property on board, particularly of the skins, which he said should be given to the officers and seamen, that they might be sure of their wages. On the 16th of June, the sloop Princess Royal arrived from Macao, commanded by Thomas Hudson; this vessel brought accounts of the safe arrival of Captain Meares, and that Captain Colnett was coming on the coast, commodore of the English trading vessels from Macao for the ensuing season, in a snow named the Argonaut. Mr. Hudson likewise brought accounts of the failure of Juan Cravalia & Co., merchants of Macao, before mentioned. What right the commodore had to detain the North-West America before, it is not for us to say; but he always said it was an agreement between Captain Douglas and himself; but, after the arrival of this vessel with the above news, he held her as security for the bills of exchange drawn on said Cravalia & Co. in favor of his Catholic majesty: this we have heard him say. On the 2d of July, the Princess Royal sailed out of the port, having, to our knowledge, been treated by the commodore and his officers with every possible attention, which Captain Hudson himself seemed conscious of and grateful for. Prior to this vessel's sailing, the commodore gave to Mr. Funter all the skins he brought in in the North-West America, which were shipped on board the sloop Princess Royal by Mr. Funter, for his own account. In the evening of the 2d, a sail was descried from the Spanish fort. We were among the first that went out to meet them. It proved to be the Argonaut, Captain Colnett, before mentioned. The transactions of this vessel were such, that we can give the sense of them in a few words, that may answer
7972
7973-- 478 --
7974every purpose of the particulars, many of which are not immediately to the point, or tending to what we suppose you wish to know.
7975
7976It seems Captain Meares, with some other Englishmen at Macao, had concluded to erect a fort and settle a colony in Nootka Sound; from what authority we cannot say. However, on the arrival of the Argonaut, we heard Captain Colnett inform the Spanish commodore he had come for that purpose, and to hoist the British flag, take formal possession, etc.: to which the commodore answered, he had taken possession already in the name of his Catholic majesty; on which Captain Colnett asked if he would be prevented from building a house in the port. The commodore, mistaking his meaning, answered him, he was at liberty to erect a tent, get wood and water, etc., after which he was at liberty to depart when he pleased; but Captain Colnett said that was not what he wanted, but to build a block house, erect a fort, and settle a colony, for the crown of Great Britain. Don Estevan Josß Martinez answered, No; that, in doing that, he should violate the orders of his king, run a risk of losing his commission, and not only that, but it would be relinquishing the Spaniards' claim to the coast: besides, Don Martinez observed, the vessels did not belong to the king, nor was he intrusted with powers to transact such public business. On which Captain Colnett answered, he was a king's officer; but Don Estevan replied, his being in the navy was of no consequence in the business. In conversing on the subject, after the arrival of the vessel in port, it seems Captain Colnett insulted the commodore by threatening him, and drew his sword in the Princesa's cabin; on which Don Martinez ordered the vessel to be seized. We did not see him draw his sword, but were informed of the circumstance by those whose veracity we had no reason to doubt. After seizing the Argonaut, the sloop Princess Royal arrived a second time; and, as she belonged to the same company, the commodore took possession of her also. With respect to the treatment of the prisoners, although we have not perused Mr. Meares's publication, we presume none of them will be backward in confessing that Don E. J. Martinez always treated them very kindly, and all his officers, consistent with the character of gentlemen.
7977
7978Having acquainted you with the principal part of the business, agreeable to request, one thing remains to answer, which is, of the
7979
7980-- 479 --
7981captain, officers, and seamen, of the North-West America. You ask if we carried them to China. We did, and with them one hundred sea otter skins, the value of which, we judge, independent of freight, was four thousand eight hundred and seventy-five dollars; these were delivered to Mr. Meares, and were, we suppose, his property. We sincerely hope, sir, when things are represented with truth, it will rescue our friend Don Estevan J. Martinez from censure; at least, that he may not be deemed an impostor and a pirate, which many, from only hearing one part of the story, supposed he was. As to the treatment of the Americans by Don Estevan, we have ever testified it in terms due to such hospitality, and are happy again to have it in our power to do what we deem justice to his conduct. While speaking of others of your nation, we can never be unmindful of you. Your kind reception and treatment of us has made an impression that will not be easily erased; and we hope you will bear in mind how very sincerely we are, sir, your most humble servants,
7982
7983Robert Gray
7984
7985Joseph Ingraham
7986
7987Robert Gray and John Hoskins to Joseph Barrell
7988St. Lorenzo, Nootka Sound
7989
7990Augt. 21, 1792
7991
7992Sir
7993
7994NO doubt you will be surprized, at hearing of us from this place, when your orders so positively forbid going to any Spanish port, but in case of distress, which I am sorry to say, is the cause of our putting in here. On the 27th of June last, in Latitude 52° 30' No. Longitude 130° 36' West the Ship struck on a rock, 1023 which made her leak so much, as to keep one pump agoing; in this situation we made a harbour near to Woody point, where the ship was haul'd ashore; there was a considerable sheathing knock'd of the starboard bilge, and the plank broke through in two places; the lower part of the stem and forward part of the Keel were shatter'd to peices. the Carpenter inform'd, he could do nothing with the Stem and Keel,
7995
7996-- 480 --
7997until the Ship was unloaded and laid on blocks; that he must take the damaged parts out and put in new. the Carpenter repaired the bilge, spik'd the shatter'd stem together, sheath'd and caulk'd it over. this being done we sail'd for this place, where we arrived the 23d of July, and reported our situation to the Spanish Governor, who very politely offer'd us every assistance. he has lent us Store houses for our Goods, granted the second best house in his small Town, for Capt. Gray and myself to lodge and do our business in; and insists on our eating and drinking with him, at his house; where we live most sumptuously.
7998
7999We are happy to inform you the Ship is now thoroughly repaired, reloaded and fit for Sea. to morrow we shall sail for port Montgomery, where we expect to meet Mr. Haswell in the Sloop. we expect to leave the Coast in about a month, and shall try what can be done at Japan and the northern Coast of China.
8000
8001We have a tolerable Cargo of furrs aboard and are in hopes to get a few more. Capt. Ingraham of the Hope informs, that furrs are prohibited in China under very severe penalties; that although we may smuggle the Skins, they will fetch only from 15 to 25 Doll[ar]s.
8002
8003We have nothing more to add at present than we are your much obliged and most obedient humble Servants
8004
8005Robert Gray
8006
8007John Hoskins
8008
8009Capt. Ingraham requests you would inform his Owners that he has been in this port and are all well. will you be so good as to inform my mother I am well.
8010
8011h r k k. S.O.
8012
8013John Hoskins to Joseph Barrell
8014St. Lorenzo, Nootka Sound
8015
8016Augt. 21st 1792
8017
8018Esteemed Sir
8019
8020Capt. Gray and myself have already wrote you by this conveyance, via New Spain; and as you are my friend and principal employer, I take the liberty in my own name, of stating to you some
8021
8022-- 481 --
8023of the particular transactions of our voyage, and principally what concerns myself.
8024
8025Soon after our leaving Boston, I found myself very disagreeably situated and unsupported by the man, who ought to have been my friend. he on the contrary held me in the most contemptable light, and introduc'd me to his officers as a spy upon his and their conduct, not only as it respected trade, but even to their domestic life; this station of mine was soon made known to the whole Ship's company, and to every vessel we have spoke. he and his officers have frequently convers'd together, on the method of treatment that was requisite for me, and I have reason to believe, if I had sign'd the articles, or you had not so fully mentioned me in your orders to him, I should have long before this day been before the mast, if not turn'd a shore; but as this was plac'd out of their power, the only method they had left was to treat me ill. this they have done very frequently and been countenanc'd for it by their Commander. I could recite many disagreeable sayings they have made use of at those times respecting yourself, but at present I'll forbear.
8026
8027My Books I have regularly kept, and will venture to say, you will find the accounts as fair, and as honest as my situation would admit. when I first propos'd opening the books, which was not long after we got to Sea; I was told the books was of no use nor myself neither, for that it was impossible for me to keep an account of the disposal of the Cargo. I insisted it was possible and would, if I could not keep a perfect account, keep the best that was possible and that I was convinc'd, on my return, that you would make every allowance, if every thing had the appearance of fair play. I open'd the books with a seperate account of every article in the invoice, this I was told was not right, that I knew not how to keep books; I told them this was the way all merchants kept them, that you also kept them in the same way. the answer was damn Jo. Barrell he does not know how to keep books or any thing else, except his damn mean ways, of setting his damn clerks to overlook people, and the like. I then requested to be shown the right method of keeping books; but no one knowing, I went on my old way. yet every time I open my books, I receive similar treatment and yet these same people are so illiterate as scarsce to know a book when they see it.
8028
8029-- 482 --
8030Since we have been on the Coast, we have cruiz'd various parts of it, (but give me leave to say I knew as much of the Coast, when we first arriv'd as did the Commander of your Ship) but my treatment has not been alter'd. I have reason to think notwithstanding I keep a good look out, there is some unfair play and which if possible I will endeavour to discover. least I should be mistaken in this, I'll give you some reasons. Capt. Gray brought out several old fashion woolen coats and other articles, which I have heard him declare, if he could get an opportunity he would sell and convert the proceeds to his own use. this by no means shews an honest principal in the Commander. he has also said should the Ship go to Boston, he would not send any property of his own in her, he would send it to New York. Mr. Haswell I have heard from the Commander of another Ship, has said to his officers, that he would make 10,000 Dollars, he would then go to England that the Owners might go to hell and his wages and per Centage with them. if these are the dashes that are making no doubt we shall neat you small proffits. you may possibly blame me for not preventing this, but if you will recollect the Captain of your Ship is a man of no principle, that he does not, nor has not since he left Boston, commanded his Ship. this I do not say of myself, his officers have told him so on his quarter deck. though when I have at times spoken for the good of the concern, he has frequently told me I am master of the Ship and will do as I please. but really if he had have been, I should have been properly supported and treated both by him and his officers like a gentleman.
8031
8032When you reflect on what small powers I am invested, and those principally in the Captains orders and consider their ungenteel treatment of me, owing to their being jealous that I am a spy upon their conduct, and this proceeding from a dishonest principle, which they have so fatally imbib'd, that even their honour, the risk of the loss of all their property cannot eradicate, for I am sure where honour and honesty is made the rule of a man's conduct, he cares not for the damage ten thousand spies can do him, you must think my situation truly an unhappy one. though I well know it is a delicate matter, to delegate powers to a young unexperienc'd man like myself, who has so many ill examples, so many temptations before him and who is to be for so great a length of time from the face of his employers. but Sir
8033
8034-- 483 --
8035give me leave to say, it would have been better for me, not to have had any concern in this bussiness; then I should not have lain open to the censorious world, for though I may be innocent, yet I may fall a sacrifice to the faults of others. or as I am concern'd that you had not have granted me more and fuller powers, or sent a man that knew how to command himself, then he would have known how to command his Ship and to shew his officers there places, with such a man I should have had authority enough. your letter per Capt. Magee directed to Capt. Gray and myself has rais'd me a little in their opinion. I could wish there was some person in Canton, who had your orders to take the Ship and Cargo out of the present hands, if there was I think it would be to your advantage.
8036
8037You may from what I have said, think I am a prejudic'd, discontented boy; believe me Sir I am discontented and will not say I am altogether unprejudic'd; which I who so well know your disposition, believe you would be equally so with a man, who has not even the least principle of honour or honesty but appears to be divested of every virtue, and who is in grain if not openly a Knave and a Fool. let all I have said remain inter nos until my return, when to your and their faces I will relate every circumstance. I hope however you will take measures to prevent any thing on your side the water.
8038
8039The last season we did not collect many Skins, we went into winter quarters the 20th of September, there built a House and set up the Sloop she was best part done, when the natives on the 18th of Febuary came to attack us; she was then got ready to launch as soon as possible, otherways according to our customary delays I know not whether she would have been launch'd at this time. we sail'd together on the 2d April the one to the southward, the other to the northward. on board the Ship owing to their being no Commander we have run many risks both in sailing along shore, and going into harbours, unknown, unsounded and without a boat in the water; one of those harbours with the wind blowing on to the breakers, we ran down and over a bar, in three fathoms water, w[h]ere as good luck would have it we got over safe. and without sounding or a boat a head we beat out of the same place and came over the bar again in three fathoms water. thus many are the dangers we have past and risks carelesly
8040
8041-- 484 --
8042run. 1024 At last however fortune refus'd any longer to smile and in blundering along, (for I can call it by no better name) without any look out kept, within three miles of a most inhospitable and rocky shore, the Ship going six knots with a crowd of sail, struck on a rock about four feet under water, (this was the 25th of June) the Sloop in company. Mr. Haswell says he in the Sloop saw the rock break and haul'd from it. (the Ship was to follow him.) the Ship however making but little water we immediately bore away for Derby's Sound the night of the 26th it blew a fresh gale from the westward. the officers of the watches of both vessels raced to try which would carry sail longest and go fastest by the wind. previous to this Mr. Haswell was ordered to tack at 12 oClock it then being Mr. Smith watch in the Ship. the Sloop went about at the time, and tacking before the Ship nettled Mr. Smith a little, he being in the largest vessel thought he ought to tack first, he therefore did not tack till nearly one oClock, by this time both vessels running different courses had got a considerable way apart, the Ship increas'd her leak considerably on this tack, so as to keep both pumps agoing, we were then oblig'd to bare away, part with the Sloop and run under the lee of Washington's Islands, where we fother'd the Ship; after this we bore away and went to Naspahtee in company with Capt. Magee, where we arrived the 5th of July, two days being past, the third the Ship was haul'd ashore with all in, on the Carpenters examining her they found the lower part of the stem and forward part of the keel knock'd to peices, this could not be repair'd without discharging the Ship and laying her on blocks; the Carpenters were ordered to spike it together and sheath it over; the sheathing on the starboard bilge being also a great deal of it gone and two holes knock'd thro the plank, this was also repair'd and on the 10th we put to sea. went to Clioquot w[h]ere we arrived the 12th we again sail'd from there and beat up to Nootka Sound, where we arrived the 21st in distress, after making our situation known to the Spanish Governor Señor Don Juan Francisco de la Bodega y Quadra. he offered us every assistance granted us houses for our goods and the second best house in
8043
8044-- 485 --
8045his small village for Capt. Gray and myself to lodge in and sends for us to breakfast, dine and sup at his house every day. this Governor is really a Gentleman, a friend to all the human race, a father to the natives, who all love him and a good friend to the Americans in general. 1025
8046
8047Capt. Kendrick when I saw him the last season, offer'd to give up to me, (if I would pay his mens wages, and a debt he had contracted in Macao of about 4000 Dollars) his vessel and Cargo which was a thousand Sea Otter Skins; I told him I had no authority to accept his offer, or to demand any payment from him; nor did I think any person in the Ship had. Capt. Ingraham informs me he left him at the point of Death in Macao, about two months since.
8048
8049We shall sail I hope tomorrow as our Ship is now repair'd and reloaded; though I must confess, with not so much expedition as I expected.
8050
8051My best respects to your amiable Lady and family, not forgetting Miss Webb and the good Doctor Bulfinch. and Sir will you be pleas'd to accept the same yourself from him who is in gratitude and duty bound to serve you, and who hopes in twelve months to meet you in perfect health and happiness.
8052
8053Your humble Servant
8054
8055John Hoskins
8056
8057John Hoskins' Memorandum on the Trade at Nootka Sound
8058NOOTKA sound being the head rendezvous for all Ships that trade on the Coast they make it a common practice to fall in with the Latitude of it, its being well Known for a good harbour and the Skins the best that is to be got on the Coast -- they will not sell a single Skin but for Copper or Muskits or Powder and Shot they value Iron but little European tools they will not sell a single fish for they don't seem to covet usefull things but any thing that looks pleasing to the eye or what they call riches Chizzels are the only thing of Iron that they will sell a Skin for they will sell Fish and
8059
8060-- 486 --
8061Deer for Copper Bangles this seems to be the general mind of all the tribes that Talk this Language to the Northward of this place they like Iron the best to the Southward they esteem Chizzels very much yet all these places have the same liking for Copper and Muskets that they have at Nootka Sound as far as this Language holds they have the best Skins, cured the best and the plentifullest of any place on the Coast, this Language begins in the Lattitude of 47° 30' North and holds as farr as the Lattitude of 52° 30' North and then falters as likewise to the Southward -- the price of a Skin at Nootka sound is ten Iron Chizzels, six inches square of sheet Copper or ten Copper Bangles, for a pistol four Skins, for a Muskit Six skins for a pearl shell one Skin
8062
8063at Clioquot, seven Chizzels, a span'd square of Copper or ten Copper Bangles for a Skin, for a pistol four skins, for a Musket six Skins, for a Blanket one Skin, for a pearl shell one Skin, for Cloaths etc. accordingly
8064
8065at Tattoothes Island, five Chizzels for a Skin a peice of Copper as big as your hand, six bangles or a saw for a Chemer two skins, and Cloaths according to the size of the Buttons and the number that is on the Garment
8066
8067at Chasas Clasat, a peice of Copper as large as your hand or eight Bangles for a Skin, for a pistol four Skins for a Musket eight Skins for a pearl shell three skins.
8068
8069at Zenith three Chizzels, a saw, or any other Iron according to their Notion for a Skin
8070
8071at Queen Charlotte's sound, one Chizzel or a ps. of Barr Iron a foot long or any thing that is Iron that they can use or Beads for a Skin, Note Copper will not do hear.
8072
8073Robert Gray and John Hoskins to Joseph Barrell
8074Ship Columbia, Straits of de Fuca
8075
807628 September 1792
8077
8078Sir
8079
8080THE foregoing 1026 is what we wrote at the time, since which we have been to port Montgomery where we found the Sloop, and
8081
8082-- 487 --
8083in our passage of the Coast we stopt at this place, where yesterday arrived our good friend the Spanish Gov[erno]r of Nootka; to whom we have sold the Sloop for 75 prime Sea Otter Skins, and she is now discharging; as she sails very dull, 1027 is so small and we want the men; we thought it the best we could do with her.
8084
8085On account of our misfortune in the Ship, the season is so far advanc'd, that we remain undetermined at present about going to Japan; should the winds prove favorable we shall go, but if averse we shall make the best of our way to China; for to loose our season would ruin the voyage; we hope to get a good sale for our furrs and that every thing in the end will turn out to our honor and advantage.
8086
8087We are Sir with every sentiment
8088
8089of Respect and Esteem
8090
8091Your most oblig'd
8092
8093Humble Servants
8094
8095Robert Gray
8096
8097John Hoskins
8098
8099John Hoskins to Joseph Barrell
8100Wampoa 13 Decr. 1792
8101
8102Sir
8103
8104WE have this moment arrived in the River, and I have only by the Hannibal time to write a line she being now under way. Furrs are very cheap and almost impossible to get rid of for money, however shall see in a few days what can be done, the Ship is considerable leaky and must undergo a repair, which will cost considerable, however we shall be as frugal as possible in all expences.
8105
8106I am in haste wishing
8107
8108you every happiness
8109
8110Your most humble servant
8111
8112Jno. Hoskins
8113
8114-- 488 --
8115
8116John Hoskins and Robert Gray to Joseph Barrell
8117Ship Columbia Wompoa
8118
811922 Decr. 1792
8120
8121Sir
8122
8123ON the day of our arrival I wrote you by the Hannibal via Philadelphia, since which I have been at Canton and am this day been delivering a part of the furrs which we sold. skins are very low and there is no selling them for Cash, indeed we could not get the Ship secur'd unless we would agree to take goods in pay and 'tis absolutely necessary to have a security merchant 1028 or nothing can be sold out of the Ship nor is it safe to deal with any of the Chinese without. it is therefore out of our power to do with the money as you wish could we get Cash for the Skins we could either sell or freight the Ship at a good rate.
8124
8125the Ship is so leaky we must haul her ashore this together with the detention will make our expences at this place great, however depend every thing shall be done that can be to make them as light as possible.
8126
8127at this time 'tis impossible to say the amount our skins will fetch, but I don't expect they will exceed Forty thousand dollars. this is a small price for our quantity of Furrs, but there are a great many at market and many more expected. the very best Skins at retail will not fetch more than thirty dollars and at wholesale from six to twenty five dollars.
8128
8129We have not been at Japan, it being so late in the season and the Ship so weak we dare not attempt it. we expect to sail for Boston in
8130
8131-- 489 --
8132about a month. Capt. Gray is at Canton. the choppe boat in which are the furrs is now waiting for me and I must conclude in haste.
8133
8134Your most obliged and most devoted humble Servant
8135
8136John Hoskins for self and Robt. Gray
8137
8138Capt. Kendrick lays in larks bay (where he has been 14 months) dismasted. 1029
8139
8140John Howel to Joseph Barrell and Others
8141Canton, 11 May, 1795
8142
8143Joseph Barrell, Samuel Brown, Crowel Hatch,
8144
8145Charles Bullfinch and John Darby Esquires.
8146
8147Sirs:
8148
8149I WROTE to you from the Island of O. Whahoo the 19th of December last, and left the letter with Captain Brown to forward via England. Eleven days after, he and Captain Gordon were both murdered there by the Chief of the Island, 1030 in consequence of which the vessels afterward proceeded hither, instead of going round Cape Horn. The letter was forwarded from hence by the last Fleet, which sailed nearly two months ago.
8150
8151My former letter informed you of the death of Captain Kendrick, on the 12th of December at O. Whahoo, 1031 and I now enclose you an extract from my Journal of that date, which contains all necessary particulars. I arrived here the beginning of February, and found the debts he had accumulated were immense, and much beyond my ability to pay with the property of yours in my possession. Justice to the Creditors present obliged me to make a dividend to them of what the property produced. The business is not yet wound up, and I can
8152
8153-- 490 --
8154not exactly say what will be the deficiency, but I suppose it will be about 12 or 13 per cent; not included in this estimate, is a bond to the late Wm. Douglass 1032 for two thousand three hundred and twentytwo dollars, dated the 1st of April, 1795 with interest at twenty per cent per ann. The penalty of this bond is only of the same amount of the principal; which has arisen from the ignorance of the man who drew it. There is also eight thousand dollars due to E. J. Martinez, which Captain Kendrick made use of on his first voyage here. I have given Manuel de Agati and Julio de Ferentes, the Spanish super cargoes, the papers relative thereto, for the use of their friend and countryman. If there should be any debts to the Chinese which I am pretty confident there will not be, except to the comprador, whose account rises to six hundred dollars, I shall make them a dividend, in common with the other creditors, and pay the deficiency out of my own pocket, and value on you for the same. It is absolutely necessary some steps should be taken to retrieve the character of the Americans here. Such villanies have been practised as have sickened the Chinese from having any dealing with them on that liberal scale they would otherwise adopt. The owners of the Hope who will I trust, be obliged to pay Captain Ingrahams debts to Conseequa, are now defaulters forty-three thousand eight hundred and twenty one Dollars. I have seen the bond, in which Ingraham binds them; specifying also the names of Thomas H. Perkins, Frederick W. Geyer and one of his brothers.
8155
8156The Washington landed here, or rather put on board the Surprise Snow, which brought them up, one thousand and sixty-three Sea otter skins, and six hundred and forty tails, which I sold for sixteen thousand seven hundred and fifty-six dollars, Cash. The Washington was sold for thirteen hundred dollars. I bought her, 1033 and am going to the N. W. Coast on my own account, connected with some Chinese merchants. I expect to be back next December, and shall then write to you very fully respecting every thing; wind up all the accounts; and transmit you the papers, which I believe, will be the
8157
8158-- 491 --
8159only remittance you ever have had, or ever will have, from the Washington. Indeed when I consider the conduct of the men to whom you have entrusted the management of your business and speculations in this part of the world, I wonder only that you are not worse off. Except Mr. Hoskins I hardly ever saw a man in your N. W. employ, who was not either fool or Rogue, and your commanders united both those characters. I shall, gentlemen, at a future period, unfold some of their conduct to you, which, if you have not long since ceased to wonder, will make you wonder in good earnest.
8160
8161I should endeavor to send you the accounts and papers belonging to the Washington now, but it will be December before the ships [which] will sail from hence in a few days, can arrive in England; and three month more would be lost before they reach Boston. Besides the papers are voluminous; and I presume you do not wish to pay freight for them. As I have conducted every part of the business openly and above board, I shall send you vouchers and certificates for every particular thing, as far as the confused state of the deceased's Books etc. will allow. The skins were sold well. They average nearly 15 dollars each. Mr. Drummond of the English Company, sold a Cargo since for 1072 dollars. That is a material difference. Had I brought the Vessel up, it would have been attended with an expense, of three thousand five hundred dollars; whilst the Freight I paid Captain Greene was only three hundred. I hope this economy will be agreeable to you, it has at least the charm of novelty to recommend it. 1034
8162
8163The deeds of the Land purchased on the N. W. Coast, are in my possession. I shall leave them here to be forwarded by the first vessel of the season for Boston. If you knew the lands as well as I do, you would not be very anxious about the fate of them. To every other part of Mr. Barrels letter of the 2nd January, 1793, no answer is needed; as the decease of Captain Kendrick, settles all that business; which had he lived it would have been impracticable for him to have fulfilled, had he acceded to your proposal.
8164
8165Should I be fortunate in my voyage to the Coast, I shall very
8166
8167-- 492 --
8168probably be in Boston in the Autumn of 1796, but should you have an opportunity of acknowledging the receipt of this letter, or wish to give me any directions concerning the subject of it, you had better write to me, to the care of James M. Bosma Esqr., of the Dutch Company, Canton or Macoa.
8169
8170I have the honour to be with much defference and esteem, Gentlemen Your Most Obedient and humble Servant.
8171
8172J. Howel
8173
8174John Howel to Joseph Barrell
8175Macao, 23 Decr. 1796
8176
8177Joseph Barrell, Esqr.
8178
8179Sir:
8180
8181THE original and duplicate of your letter of the 19th of January last, I received by the Zenobia of Providence, and covered from Mr. Beale.
8182
8183The first opportunity I had of writing to you from China, was late in May, 1795, by the last fleet of English Indiamen which sailed from hence, to the care of Lane, Son & Frazer, in London; communicating all the information I was then able to give respecting the affairs of the late Capt. Kendrick, in this country. By the enclosed accounts you will have a perfect idea of their situations; and if you were sufficiently acquainted with the difficulty of settling an insolvent estate in this Empire, your candour would readily allow me much more credit than I presume to claim. By the accompanying narrative of such proceedings as I have gathered from the well authenticated relations of others, and had ocular demonstration of myself, some idea may be formed of the manner in which your speculative expedition was managed.
8184
8185I cannot avoid expressing the mortification I felt, on reading the last passage in your letter above referred to, although a flattering compliment was attached to it. It needed no very refined education, or remarkably nice sence of justice, to perceive that your requests were by no means unreasonable, for guided by the plain principles of that duty which I owe you, I had already anticipated, and fulfilled
8186
8187-- 493 --
8188them. Your deeds are registered here by a Notary Public, Triplicates are made. The originals are now transmitted; and the authenticated copies shall follow by subsequent Conveyances. I shall then draw on you for fifty-four dollars, being the amount of the expences incurred therefor; and hope you will duly honour it, as you well know I am a poor man, though I have a fair prospect of making a large, and very rapid fortune. If you consider my conduct toward you as just and proper in the management of your Commander's affairs which fell into my hands, I shall be happy; and doubt not but you will, should an occasion present itself, feel no reluctance in serving me.
8189
8190I have had an opportunity of seeing most parts of Capt. Kendrick's purchases on the No. Wt. Coast of America; and cannot flatter you with any hopes of profit from them even to your great, great grand children. They cost but little, it is true; and when the Millennium shall arrive, and all the nations of the earth shall be at peace, your Posterity may, perhaps, settle them. That Captain Kendrick considered his title a good one I had sufficient proof of, when he one day told the Commandant at Notka Sound, that he bought his Territories, whilst other nations stole them; and that if they (the Spaniards) were impertinent he would raise the Indians and drive them from their settlements. This, altho' a bold, was nevertheless a moderate project, for a mind like his. Two of his favourite plans were to change the prevalence of the westerly winds in the Atlantic Ocean, and turn the Gulf Stream into the Pacific, by cutting A Canal through Mexico. But with all his fooleries he was a wonderful man, and worthy to be remembered beyond the gliding Hours of the present generation. He was ruined by his appointment to the Columbia. Empires and fortunes broke on his sight. The paltry two-penny objects of his expedition were swallowed up in the magnitude of his Gulliverian Views. North East America was on the Lilliputian, but he designed N. W. America to be on the Brobdignagian scale. Had you known him as well as I did, you would have sent some Glumdalclitch or other as nurse with him. 1035
8191
81926th Decr. 1797. Mr. Davis, the Bearer of this letter, will inform you, that by the miscarriage of a letter the Papers mentioned on the
8193
8194-- 494 --
8195other side were not brought hither; and therefore cannot be forwarded untill the next opportunity.
8196
8197The Washington's Cargo sold for 16,876 Dollars which was paid by Instalments. Kendrick's debts were 28,000 Dollars and I am convinced I shall be a considerable sufferer from having undertaken to settle them, as the Chinese insist on being paid in full.
8198
8199I am, with much respect,
8200
8201Sir,
8202
8203Your most obedient Servant
8204
8205John Howel
8206
8207John Howel to Joseph Barrell
8208Manilla, 28 May, 1798
8209
8210Joseph Barrell, Esqr.
8211
8212Sir,
8213
8214IREC'D a letter from you in triplicate, requesting a statement of Capt. Kendricks affairs. My Books etca. are all in China; but as the following Statement will be near the matter though written from memory, I forward it to you, and as soon as my books arrive will send you a particular and I doubt not a satisfactory acc[oun]t:
8215
8216Vizt. Sale of Skins -- on credit 16,800 Drs.
8217Vizt. Sale Brig Washington 1,300 Drs.
8218Vizt. Sale Pearls 70 Drs.
821918,170
8220Paid Melander & Bosma 85 per Cent on 7150 Drs. 6077
8221Interest 4 Mos. on 5000 Drs. borrd. to pay the crew @ 1½ per Cent 300
8222Paid Atac Cap. K. note 680
8223Wages to Ships Compy. 5500
8224Sundry notes to ditto, for money borrowed 700
8225Capt. Green's note with Int. 780
8226Freight Skins to Canton 300
8227Paid McAvoy & Peters Note 180
8228Paid a Chinese Taylor 350
8229Paid Samuel Bedford, Note 200
8230Exp[ense]s Ship at Macao, before delivery of Cargo 600
8231-- 495 --
8232My Comm[issio]ns on sale of Skins 16,800 -- @ 5 per Cent 840
823316,507
8234My wages as assistant, as per agreement @ 75 per mo. 12 mos. is 900
8235Ditto, Commr., with allowance for Stores etca. 4 mos. @ 120 Drs. 480
8236A draft on the Royal Treasury of Madrid, drawn by the Spanish Comm[andan]t at Nootka for my services there, and sold by Capt. K. for 900 Drs. 1000
8237Cash -- in Macao 350 350
8238An organ, a Sextant, Books, liquors etca. etca. 400
8239Sundry Clothes recd., from Capt. Crowel on the Coast 350
824019,987 18,170
8241The Balance in my favour is 1,817
824219,987
8243The aforegoing Sketch, I do not pretend to say is Correct, but I am certain the Estate is more indebted to me than the aforegoing sum. But the am[oun]t of Sales of Capt. Kendricks private property, about 650 Dollars, I have to deduct from it. The manner in which I have lost the money was this: The Chinese at first agreed to be payed in proportion with the other Creditors; but when they had me in their power at Canton made me pay the whole amount. I had given my Notes for 85 per Cent: to the other Creditors, and was obliged to settle them.
8244
8245There remains against Capt. K.'s Estate the demand of Capt. Douglas and Heirs -- 5000 Dollars -- Sr. E. J. Martinez for Furs -- 8000 Dollars=13,000 Dollars, independent of mine.
8246
8247I have not been in Canton since I wrote to you last Jany. was a twelvemonth; but as I am in daily expectation of my papers, and among them your deeds of the lands on the N. W. Coast, you shall certainly have them transmitted -- But do not think, my good Sir, they are worth 2d per 1000 acres.
8248
8249I have the honour to be, with all respect,
8250
8251Sir,
8252
8253Your most obedient Servant
8254
8255John Howel
8256
8257Notes
8258-- nts --
82591 Some of these papers -- such as the memorial of Charles Bulfinch and others seeking confirmation of their claims to land "on the Columbia river"; a memorial of Charles Bulfinch and others asking that their titles to land "in the Territory of Oregon" be confirmed; reports of committees of the House of Representatives on the petition of Martha Gray for a pension in recognition of the public service of her deceased husband, Robert Gray; the report of a Senate committee on another petition from Mrs. Gray; and the report of a Senate committee on a memorial of George Barrell and S. V. S. Wilder for themselves and the representatives of Captains Kendrick and Gray seeking the confirmation of their title to lands purchased in 1791 on the Northwest Coast of America -- contain so many misstatements that they are quite unreliable and make no contribution to accurate history. They have accordingly been omitted from this volume, although the documents which are appended to them, being of real historical value, are included. [return]
8260
82612 The date and place of the building of the Columbia are usually given as 1773 at Hobart's Landing, North River, Scituate. The correct information set out in the text is taken from two registers of the Columbia in the National Archives, Washington, D. C. I am indebted to Mr. P. M. Hamer, Chief of the Division of Reference in the National Archives, and to Mr. J. J. O'Brien, State Supervisor for Massachusetts of the National Archives Project of the Works Progress Administration, for transcripts of these registers. Mr. Walter M. Whitehill of the Peabody Museum, Salem, also gave me valuable assistance in my search for the dates of the Columbia's construction and demolition. [return]
8262
82633 East India Company's Factory Records, China, II, Volume XVII (MS. in India Office, London); Journals of Major Samuel Shaw, Josiah Quincy, Editor (Boston, 1847), 296; "The Diary of Mr. Ebenezer Townsend, Jr.," Papers, New Haven Historical Society, IV (New Haven, 1888), 3, 27-28. [return]
8264
82654 "John Kendrick and His Sons," Oregon Historical Quarterly, XXIII (December, 1922), 277-302. [return]
8266
82675 A Narrative of Voyages and Travels (Boston, 1817), 400. [return]
8268
82696 In reading these narratives it must be remembered that the nautical day begins and ends at twelve o'clock, noon, and the entry in the log bears the date on which it ends. Thus, an entry under the date of January 1 began at noon on December 31 and ended at noon on January 1. The day was roughly divided into three periods of eight hours each: the beginning, the middle, and the end. [return]
8270
82717 For a fuller account of Haswell, see Proceedings, LXV. 592-600. [return]
8272
82738 A full account of the fight is in the Boston Gazette, November 17, 1800. [return]
8274
82759 The first officer was Simeon Woodruff; the second, Joseph Ingraham. At the Cape Verde Islands, as appears later, Woodruff left the Columbia, and Ingraham became first mate. [return]
8276
827710 Near Castle Island, Boston Harbor. [return]
8278
827911 September 28, 1787. [return]
8280
828112 The sloop Washington is also called the Lady Washington. She was of ninety tons burthen and carried a crew of twelve men. She never saw Boston Harbor again. [return]
8282
828313 September 29, 1787. [return]
8284
828514 Joseph Ingraham (1762-1800) was later promoted to first officer. He returned to Boston on the Columbia in August, 1790. Later he was in command of the brigantine Hope of Boston on a trading voyage (1790-1793) to the Northwest Coast. In 1799 he became a lieutenant in the United States Navy and was lost on the U. S. brig Pickering, which sailed from Delaware in August, 1800, and was never heard of afterwards. [return]
8286
828715 September 30, 1787. [return]
8288
828916 Captain John Kendrick, Lieutenant Richard S. Howe, John B. Treat, Dr. Roberts, and John Nutting. The last, who is also called the schoolmaster, died on the voyage from Cape Horn to the Northwest Coast. See below, page 51, note 4. [return]
8290
829117 October 1, 1787. [return]
8292
829318 Sao Thiago or Santiago, the largest of the Cape Verde Islands, thirty miles in length. [return]
8294
829519 English Road on the western side of Maio (Isle of May), Cape Verde Islands. Maio is separated from Santiago by a channel fourteen miles wide. [return]
8296
829720 About thirteen miles in length. [return]
8298
829921 Salt is still exported from the island of Maio. [return]
8300
830122 Porto da Praia on the south end of the island of Santiago. For a description, see page 10, below. [return]
8302
830323 It will be observed that Haswell has rarely a good word to say of Captain Kendrick. The animosity between them culminated near the Falkland Islands. As a result Haswell exchanged into the Washington. [return]
8304
830524 Simeon Woodruff was one of the gunner's mates on the Discovery in Captain James Cook's third and last voyage (1776-1780). In the anonymous (Rickman's) Journal of Captain Cook's Last Voyage (London, 1781), 196ff., and in Zimmermann's Captain Cook, Frederic W. Howay, Editor (Toronto, 1930), 62, are lengthy accounts of the sufferings of some seamen lost on Christmas Island. Woodruff was one of the party. [return]
8306
830725 Richard S. Howe, called by Haswell "clerk," but in reality, it would appear, supercargo of the Columbia. [return]
8308
830926 According to a memorandum published in the Columbian Centinel, August 11, 1790, the two vessels sailed from Santiago, December 21, 1787. See below, page 146. [return]
8310
831127 Flogging was at that time a regular punishment on shipboard, and was not by any means confined to the navy. Stephen Reynolds' log of the trading brig New Hazard (1810-1813) contains many records of its infliction. See The Voyage of the New Hazard, Frederic W. Howay, Editor (Salem, 1938). [return]
8312
831328 In a letter to Joseph Barrell, the principal owner, dated Nootka Sound, July 13, 1789, and included in this volume (below, page 122), Captain Gray speaks of this inordinate delay: "We lay forty one days, which was thirty six more than I thought was necessary." [return]
8314
831529 Fernando Noronha lies in latitude 3°50' South, longitude 32°25' West, and about 200 miles from Cape Sao Roque. [return]
8316
831730 Some allowance must be made here for Haswell's bias against Kendrick, especially in view of the quarrel which immediately follows. Captain Kendrick, like many other seamen, doubtless occasionally overindulged. See John Bartlett's narrative in The Sea, the Ship, and the Sailor (Salem, 1925), 320. [return]
8318
831931 R. David Coolidge, first mate of the Washington. He was later, in 1789, in charge of the captured North West America; and in 1791 and 1792 in command of the schooner Grace in the maritime fur-trade. [return]
8320
832132 Kendrick's eldest son, John Kendrick, Jr., had begun the voyage as fifth mate on the Columbia. The promotions consequent on the dismissal of Simeon Woodruff raised him to fourth mate. The removal of Haswell would advance him at least to third mate. See F. W. Howay, "John Kendrick and His Sons," Oregon Historical Quarterly, XXIII (December, 1922), 277-302. [return]
8322
832333 Captain Kendrick was then a man of forty-seven, while Haswell was a boy of nineteen. [return]
8324
832534 Port Desire, a harbor on the eastern coast of Patagonia in latitude 48°05' South, discovered in December, 1586, by Thomas Cavendish, the freebooter, and named after his ship. James Burney, Chronological History of the Discoveries in the South Sea or Pacific Ocean, II (London, 1806), 66. [return]
8326
832735 The reference is to Commodore Byron's description of Port Desire in John Hawkesworth, Account of the Voyages Undertaken by the Order of His Present Majesty for Making Discoveries in the Southern Hemisphere (London, 1773), I. 13ff. [return]
8328
832936 The Falkland group consists of more than two hundred islands and islets, though East and West Falkland, separated by Falkland Strait, are the best known. From his description, it is plain that Kendrick is following the course shown on the chart in Hawkesworth's Account of the Voyages, I. 41. [return]
8330
833137 The Jason Islands are the most northwesterly of the Falkland group. The northernmost lies in latitude about 51°05' South. The date of arrival is February 16, 1788. [return]
8332
833338 Low Green Keys, High Sugar Loaf, and Sedge Island are islands lying between Jason Islands and West Falkland. Byron's Sound is a deep inlet on the northern side of West Falkland Island. [return]
8334
833539 Port Egmont, discovered in January, 1765, by Commodore Byron and named in honor of the Earl of Egmont, First Lord of the Admiralty. Byron thought it "one of the finest harbours in the world." Hawkesworth, Account of the Voyages, I. 48. [return]
8336
833740 Kendrick had plainly intended to follow the course shown on Hawkesworth's chart already cited and enter Port Egmont by the passage between Saunders and Keppel islands; but, getting to the southward of Bluffs Point, he was compelled to enter Brett's Harbor. [return]
8338
833941 Brett's Harbor, Saunders Island, is one of the anchorages in Byron's Sound. [return]
8340
834142 Richard S. Howe, captain's clerk or supercargo, and John B. Treat, furrier. From the head of Brett's Harbor to Port Egmont overland would be about four miles. The Falkland Islands were then a calling place for sealers and whalers and for vessels bound around Cape Horn. [return]
8342
834343 The well-known tussock grass, indigenous to those islands, which grows to a height of five or six feet. [return]
8344
834544 The British had formed a settlement at Port Egmont, though the Falkland Islands were claimed by Spain. In 1772 the islands were abandoned as useless for a permanent colony. See State Papers Relative to the Late Negotiation with Spain and the Taking of Falkland's Islands from the English (London, 1777); Burney, Chronological History, V (London, 1817), 155-156. [return]
8346
834745 Probably the pigs that were brought out to the British settlement, and which, according to Bernard Penrose, in his Account of the Last Expedition to Port Egmont (London, 1775), had multiplied exceedingly. See Burney, Chronological History, V. 156. [return]
8348
834946 The ruins of the settlement at Port Egmont. [return]
8350
835147 John B. Cordis, originally the fourth mate, but after the dismissal of Simeon Woodruff, the third mate of the Columbia. [return]
8352
835348 Lord Anson's squadron, of which the Centurion was flagship, passed the Straits of Le Maire on March 7, 1741. Its attempt to round Cape Horn presents, says Burney (Chronological History, V. 47), "a most melancholy and long-continued scene of extreme distress and calamity." [return]
8354
835549 Probably the pintado petrel. [return]
8356
835750 The name given by sailors to the stormy petrel. It is a small bird, about six inches in length. [return]
8358
835951 Captain Gray's thankfulness for this separation shows in his letter to Joseph Barrell, dated Nootka Sound, July 13, 1789, printed below, page 122. [return]
8360
836152 First and second mate respectively. [return]
8362
836353 A kind of jellyfish capable of inflicting a severe sting. [return]
8364
836554 Masafuera, an island four or five miles in length, about 140 leagues from the coast of Chile, and about 30 leagues west of Juan Fernandez (Masatierra). Commodore Byron visited it in 1765, and Carteret, in 1767; both have left descriptions of it. [return]
8366
836755 Carteret says that the surf breaks all around the island upon the fragments of rock that have fallen from the high land, and that the only way to get off water is to anchor the boat outside the surf, swim ashore with barrels, and haul them back through the breakers when filled. [return]
8368
836956 About 1767 the Spaniards had a fort and garrison on Juan Fernandez, then used as a penal settlement for Chile. J. Ross Browne gives a diagram and a vivid description of these underground cells as they existed in 1849 in Crusoe's Island (New York, 1864), 28ff. [return]
8370
837157 Cumberland Bay is on the northeast side of Juan Fernandez. [return]
8372
837358 Lord Anson visited Juan Fernandez in July, 1741, and obtained supplies of fish, goatmeat, celery, water cress, sorrel, parsley, turnips, radishes, and cabbage from the cabbage tree. [return]
8374
837559 Captain Carteret was at Juan Fernandez on Sunday, May 10, 1767. He was surprised to see the fort and its surrounding village. "During all this time," he says, "I hoisted no colours, having none but English on board, which at this time I did not think it proper to shew." Hawkesworth, Account of the Voyages, 1. 322. [return]
8376
837760 It thus appears probable that the Washington had a copy of Hawkesworth's Account of the Voyages on board. In that collection (1. 333) there is a view of Masafuera. Carteret spent ten days in trying to obtain wood and water there. [return]
8378
837961 The goats are said to have been placed on this island by its discoverer and first inhabitant, Juan Fernandez. [return]
8380
838162 Staten Island and Masafuera, as well as Juan Fernandez, were frequented by great herds of fur-seal; and to them many of the traders resorted to add seal skins to their cargo for China. [return]
8382
838363 Captain Carteret searched for them between 25°50' and 25°30' south latitude -- their location as fixed by John Robertson's Elements of Navigation; see Hawkesworth, Account of the Voyages, 1. 337-339. Captain James Colnett, of Nootka fame, when in command of the Rattler in 1793, placed them between 26°19' and 26°13' South; see Colnett's Voyage to the South Atlantic (London, 1798), 37. On page 179 will be found a sketch of these islands as seen by him. [return]
8384
838564 In seven weeks during the summer of 1792 the ship Jefferson of Boston obtained at St. Ambrose the immense number of 13,000 seal skins. [return]
8386
838765 Neither the Jefferson in 1792 nor Captain Colnett in 1793 found any evidence of inhabitants on these islands. [return]
8388
838966 In 1793 Captain Colnett visited the Galapagos Islands. They were uninhabited at that time. He could find no water on them. Of their climate he wrote (Voyage to the South Atlantic, 58): "I consider it as one of the most delightful climates under heaven." They were a favorite resort of the buccaneers. One islet is marked "Cowley's Enchaunted Isle" on the map accompanying the account of Captain Cowley's voyage in William Hacke, A Collection of Original Voyages (London, 1699), 9. See Burney, Chronological History, IV. 145. [return]
8390
839167 Colnett mentions (Voyage to the South Atlantic, 45-46) meeting near the Galapagos Islands such a current running southwest by west at 2½ miles an hour. [return]
8392
839368 Haswell is right. Vessels keeping farther to the westward caught the regular trade wind. See George Dixon, Voyage round the World (London, 1789), 230-231. [return]
8394
839569 The name given by Sir Francis Drake in 1579 to the coast of what is now California and Oregon. [return]
8396
839770 The landfall of the Washington was on the California coast, about one degree north of Cape Mendocino. [return]
8398
839971 Any contact by the natives in latitude 42° with the Spanish missions must have been indirect. Spain's spasmodic northern efforts were in the line of discovery, not trade. [return]
8400
840172 The Washington has just passed the southern boundary of Oregon. [return]
8402
840373 This is not Cape Mendocino, which lies south of the Washington's landfall. From the latitude subsequently given, it is probably Cape Blanco, the most westerly point of Oregon, in 42° 50' North. [return]
8404
840574 Ingraham records in his manuscript journal under date December 3, 1791, that there were then 3,000 sea-otter skins in the custom house of Macao consigned to the Spanish company from Manila. Sea-otter were plentiful along the Californian coast, and an illicit trade therein went on for many years. It also took the form of poaching by means of Aleut hunters, who operated on shares with the shipowners. [return]
8406
840775 Off the Alsea River, Lincoln County, Oregon. [return]
8408
840976 Dressed moose or elk skins were regularly traded by the natives of the Columbia River. See Original Journals of the Lewis and Clark Expedition, Reuben G. Thwaites, Editor (New York, 1905), III. 293-296. They found a ready market with the Indians of the Queen Charlotte Islands and Alaska, who used them as armor. The Jefferson in 1793 obtained three sea-otter skins for a tanned moose skin; and for another, six. Washington Historical Quarterly, XXI. 89. Captain Cook, in his Voyage to the Pacific Ocean (London, 1784), II. 307, mentions the use of tanned elk skins for armor. [return]
8410
841177 Lewis and Clark give detailed descriptions and rough drawings of the canoes used by the Indians at the mouth of the Columbia River. They say that these canoes were "remarkably neat, light, and well adapted for riding high waves." Original Journals, IV. 30. The material was usually cedar. [return]
8412
841378 Captain Cook had a similar experience at Nootka Sound in March, 1778: "Having come pretty near us, a person . . . stood up and made a long harangue inviting us to land as we guessed by his gestures. At the same time, he kept strewing handfuls of feathers towards us; and some of his companions threw handfuls of red dust or powder in the same manner. The person who played the orator wore the skin of some animal and held in each hand something which rattled as he kept shaking it." Voyage to the Pacific Ocean, II. 265f. [return]
8414
841579 Mr. T. C. Elliott remarks that the sloop has passed Yaquina Bay, Lincoln County, Oregon, without comment by Haswell. Oregon Historical Quarterly, XXIX. 170 n. [return]
8416
841780 A strange expression, seeing that Haswell had never before been on the Northwest Coast, Probably it is just the assurance of a boy of nineteen. [return]
8418
841981 Captain Cook waxes eloquent on the thieving propensities of the Nootka Indians. Such thieving, so-called, was rather the childish desire to grasp and appropriate that which they thought to be of use to them. [return]
8420
842182 Considerable discussion has been aroused regarding the probable source of the iron found amongst the natives on the coast when the first whites arrived. The better opinion is that it reached them from the traders across the mountains by intertribal exchange. The traders had now been four years on the coast. [return]
8422
842383 This disease was contracted from the white people. It was epidemic in 1775 and later, and was said to have been brought by the Spaniards. See note 2 on page 371, below; Nathaniel Portlock, Voyage round the World (London, 1789), 271. [return]
8424
842584 Somewhere in Tillamook County, Oregon. [return]
8426
842785 Nearly as far north as Tillamook Head, Clatsop County, Oregon. [return]
8428
842986 On August 14 the Washington was about thirty miles south of her position on the thirteenth. This is, perhaps, Tillamook Bay. [return]
8430
843187 The Washington had left the Falkland Islands on February 28, 1788, five and a half months previous, and in the interval, though she had seen land, had not called at any place. [return]
8432
843388 Dixon records the same confidence in the natives whom he met and traded with at Cloak Bay, Queen Charlotte Islands, in July, 1787. Voyage round the World, 301. [return]
8434
843589 As before stated, this harbor is believed to be Tillamook Bay. The Columbia River, the so-called River of the West, empties into the Pacific Ocean some thirty miles to the northward. [return]
8436
843790 "The Women's petticoat is about 15 inches long made of arbor-vita or the white cedar bark woven to a string and hanging down in tassels and tied so as to cover the hips as low as the petticoat will reach and only covers them when standing, as in any other position the tassels separate." Original Journals of the Lewis and Clark Expedition, III. 206; see also ibid., 208, 239-242. [return]
8438
843991 Taffrail, the upper part of the stern of a vessel. [return]
8440
844192 Nowhere was the maritime fur-trade in more marked contrast with the land fur-trade than in situations like this. A murder had been committed; to punish it, indiscriminate shooting was indulged in. In the land fur-trade an effort would have been made to induce the tribe to surrender the murderer, or some step taken whereby the punishment for the crime would fall upon the guilty. [return]
8442
844393 This is some fifty miles north of the Columbia River and in the vicinity of Gray's Harbor. [return]
8444
844594 The Indian taste was extremely variable as to the acceptability and relative value of the goods offered in barter. Such whimsicality greatly increased the risks of the trade. But through all these changes copper remained a steady medium of exchange, though some objection might be raised regarding the size or thickness of the sheets. [return]
8446
844795 The Indians, from the vicinity of Cape Flattery northward along the Vancouver Island shore, were intrepid whalers. See Adventures of John Jewitt, Robert Brown, Editor (London, 1896), 122f., 178ff.; Gilbert M. Sproat, Scenes and Studies of Savage Life (London, 1868), 226. [return]
8448
844996 Destruction Island on the Washington coast, south of Cape Flattery. [return]
8450
845197 Quinault Indian villages, on the Washington coast, south of Destruction Island. [return]
8452
845398 The Olympic Mountains in the state of Washington. [return]
8454
845599 Flattery Rocks, eleven miles south of Cape Flattery -- a group of remarkably bare, rugged islets, the outer rock lying 2½ miles off shore. [return]
8456
8457100 The old question: one difficulty was that de Fuca had said that his entrance was between 47° and 48°, where no waterway exists. The so-called Strait of Juan de Fuca lies between 48°23' and 48°36'. [return]
8458
8459101 Cape Flattery. [return]
8460
8461102 Barkley Sound, the southernmost of the sounds on the western coast of Vancouver Island, in latitude 48°47', discovered and named by Captain Charles W. Barkley of the Imperial Eagle in 1787. It lies just northerly from the entrance of the Strait of Juan de Fuca. [return]
8462
8463103 Fray Crespi describes the somewhat similar reception of Juan Perez in the Santiago by the Haidas of the Queen Charlotte Islands in 1774. Herbert E. Bolton, Fray Juan Crespi (Berkeley, 1927), 323. [return]
8464
8465104 Meares, in the Felice, had been in that vicinity in the preceding month. John Meares, Voyages Made in the Years 1788 and 1789, from China to the Northwest Coast of America (London, 1790), 172. [return]
8466
8467105 The Washington is now at anchor in Clayoquot Sound, Vancouver Island. [return]
8468
8469106 The head chief of Clayoquot Sound and vicinity. He is frequently mentioned by Meares and other early traders. [return]
8470
8471107 Captain Charles William Barkley of the Imperial Eagle, who was on the coast in 1787; Captain James Hanna of the Sea Otter, who was on the coast in 1785 and 1786; Captain Charles Duncan of the Princess Royal, 1787 and 1788; and Captain William Douglas of the Iphigenia, one of the so-called Meares vessels, 1788. [return]
8472
8473108 This name did not persist. It seems to have been applied to the whole of Clayoquot Sound. [return]
8474
8475109 In 1786 there were five vessels; in 1787 there were also five vessels; and in 1788 there were six vessels. Most of these had probably traded in the vicinity of Clayoquot. [return]
8476
8477110 Chisels were bits of iron about an inch wide, drawn to a cutting edge like a chisel, to be fastened to a handle and used like an adze. [return]
8478
8479111 So named by Captain Cook in 1778, now known as Cape Estevan. It is at the easterly or southerly entrance to Hope Bay, as Cook called the water between Cape Estevan and Woody Point, now Cape Cook. The sketch of Nootka Sound in Cook's Voyage to the Pacific Ocean (11. 279) places it in a wrong position. Cf. the atlas to the 1785 edition of Cook's third voyage and Vancouver's chart. [return]
8480
8481112 Haswell's opinion was correct. The latitude of Nootka Sound is 49° 32'. [return]
8482
8483113 Maquinna Point, the westerly entrance of Nootka Sound. [return]
8484
8485114 Now called Resolution Cove, on Bligh Island, Nootka Sound. Before the vessels left Brett's Harbor, Falkland Islands, Captain Kendrick had named Nootka Sound as a rendezvous in case of separation. [return]
8486
8487115 The Washington had separated from the Columbia off Cape Horn on April 1, 1788. [return]
8488
8489116 This was the longboat belonging to the Felice, one of the so-called Meares vessels. Meares, in his Voyages, says (219) that on September 17, 1788, "A sail was seen in the offing, which rather surprised us; and we were not without our apprehensions that it was the Princess Royal, who had met with some accident that obliged her to return. The long boat was immediately sent to her assistance, which instead of the British vessel we expected, conveyed into the Sound a sloop, named the Washington, from Boston in New England, of about one hundred tons burthen." [return]
8490
8491117 The Felice Adventurer and the Iphigenia Nubiana of the Meares concern. A snow is a two-masted square-rigged vessel, carrying a boom mainsail on a gunter mast, just abaft the main-mast. The terms "brig," "brigantine," and "snow" are used in the maritime trade as practically synonymous. [return]
8492
8493118 Friendly Cove, near the western entrance of Nootka Sound; see Cook, Voyage to the Pacific Ocean, 11. 279-280. The sloop had been making for Resolution Cove, Bligh Island, in the easterly part of Nootka Sound, but she now heads northward for Friendly Cove. [return]
8494
8495119 These vessels were in reality British but were masquerading under the Portuguese flag to evade the licenses of the South Sea and East India companies. See page xxvi, above. [return]
8496
8497120 The Iphigenia, under Douglas, had taken the northerly course, while the Felice, under Meares, had kept to the southward. They had collected only 750 sea-otter skins. George Dixon, Further Remarks on the Voyages of John Meares, Esq. (London, 1791), 67. [return]
8498
8499121 This was the spot which later (1792) was all that Quadra, the Spanish officer, was willing to deliver. It was a small flat, between two rocky projections, a few yards easterly from the Indian village at Friendly Cove. [return]
8500
8501122 The North West America, the first vessel built on the Northwest Coast of America. Meares says (Voyages, 116) that she was of forty or fifty tons. The keel was laid in June, and the schooner was launched September 20, 1788 (ibid., 220). [return]
8502
8503123 They had gone to their winter villages: Coopte, at the mouth of the Tasis Canal, and Tasis, at its head. According to Jewitt (Adventures, 145), the former is thirty miles up the sound from Friendly Cove; it is, however, but little more than ten miles. [return]
8504
8505124 At this time the maritime traders either completed their cargo in one season or, if staying for a second, wintered at the Hawaiian Islands. The Columbia and the Washington were, with the exception of Meares's ill-fated expedition of 1786-1787, the first to winter on the coast. [return]
8506
8507125 Edward Bell says: "It was very difficult here to come at the truth of what numbers of skins ships collected; for the Masters of them and their mates and ships company, whether from a privilege they think they can claim by passing round Cape Horn, or from some unaccountable species of distrust or jealousy seldom agree in their accounts of their quantity on board, many of them, and often, varying hundreds of skins." "A New Vancouver Journal," Washington Historical Quarterly, VI (January, 1915), 56. This was written in September, 1792, but it was true at any stage of the maritime trade. Dixon (Voyage round the World, 157) notes the same peculiarity. [return]
8508
8509126 The Indian villages on Williamson Passage and Muchalat Arm, east of Bligh Island, Nootka Sound. They are shown on Burney's MS. map in his MS. journal, which is in the Mitchell Library, Sydney, Australia. [return]
8510
8511127 On August 17, 1788; see page 40, above. [return]
8512
8513128 Meares (Voyages, 220) gives September 20 as the date of the launching. The difference of one day is due to the fact that Meares had come from China, while Haswell had come from Boston. [return]
8514
8515129 Meares has nothing to say on this point in his Voyages; but Captain Gray, in a letter to Joseph Barrell, July 13, 1789 (see below, page 122), writes that Meares "would not take any letters for me to China, which was worse than anything else, they being afraid my letters would injure them and hurt their trade the next season." [return]
8516
8517130 The reference is to Meares's unfortunate venture of 1786 in the Nootka, in company with the snow Sea Otter, under Tipping, which is the small schooner referred to. For details, see Meares, Voyages, 1ff. Meares lost twenty-three men by scurvy in Prince William's Sound during the winter of 1786-1787. Dixon, Voyage round the World, 154ff. [return]
8518
8519131 Meares's Voyages (4) and Portlock's Voyage round the World (359) have pictures of Tianna. He is frequently referred to by both Meares and Vancouver. In Meares's Voyages (335-338) there is a lengthy account of the reception of Tianna at Hawaii where he had resolved to take up his residence. [return]
8520
8521132 Meares says (Voyages, 223) that he sent all the stores that the Felice could spare on board the Iphigenia, but he makes no mention of any provisions being obtained from the Americans. [return]
8522
8523133 This statement agrees with that contained in Kendrick's letter of May 8, 1789, to Martinez, the Spanish commander, in which he says that of his crew "two actually died with the disease [scurvy] a few days before my arrival." It is therefore strange that he should, on July 13, 1789, write to Joseph Barrell, the principal owner: "I have all the people which I brought from Boston except Mr. John Nutting [the astronomer] who was unfortunately drowned -- and the Doctor and Mr. Woodruffe." These letters and one from John B. Treat are printed in this volume, pages 118, 120-121, and 124-125, below. [return]
8524
8525134 On April 1, 1788. See, above, the entry for that day. [return]
8526
8527135 The Columbia reached Juan Fernandez on May 24, 1788, and departed thence on June 6, 1788. The governor of the island, Don Blas Gonzalez, was dismissed from office because of his kindness to Kendrick on that occasion. In 1793, when Kendrick learned of it, he wrote to Thomas Jefferson, Secretary of State, soliciting the good offices of the United States on behalf of the dismissed governor. See below, pages 154-156. [return]
8528
8529136 Haswell complains here, as elsewhere, of Kendrick's dilatoriness. [return]
8530
8531137 A federal salute. Martinez writes in his MS. diary, May 6, 1789: "They [Kendrick and Gray] told me that the reason for not giving more shots each time was since there were thirteen of the American states and thirteen stars in the canton of their flag they had orders from their Congress to fire their salvoes with a like number of shots." [return]
8532
8533138 Robert Funter, in command of the North West America, the schooner referred to in the next paragraph. [return]
8534
8535139 In the tiny cove where the North West America had been built. [return]
8536
8537140 Whether these charges be true or not, they illustrate the spirit of the maritime fur-trade. There was no such permanency in it as there was in the land trade. Its traders had one thought: to obtain a cargo by any means, leaving others to bear the Indians' revenge. This is the secret of many so-called unprovoked attacks. See the Introduction, pages xxvi-xxvii, above. [return]
8538
8539141 Here again there is the usual difference of a day between Haswell's and Meares's accounts, the latter giving the date as October 27. See note 2 on page 50, above. [return]
8540
8541142 The Iphigenia. [return]
8542
8543143 In Friendly Cove, at the western entrance to Nootka Sound. [return]
8544
8545144 This seems to have been a favorite project of Captain Kendrick. While in China in 1790-1791, he changed the rig of the Washington from that of a sloop to that of a brig, or, more probably, a brigantine. [return]
8546
8547145 Used in the original Dutch meaning -- "kambus": "ship's chimney"; this chimney was built "where the mizzen mast had stood." See, below, the entry for December 12, 1789. [return]
8548
8549146 For the value of these so-called chisels in different parts of the coast, see John Hoskin's memorandum on the trade at Nootka Sound, pages 485-486, below. [return]
8550
8551147 Kendrick's letter to Martinez, the Spanish commander, May 12, 1789 (below, page 119), speaks of striving "to procure Hoops to replace the Water Casks I made mention to you the Natives stole from me during the last Winter." [return]
8552
8553148 The natives of Muchalat Arm, east of Bligh Island, Nootka Sound. [return]
8554
8555149 An outcropping of Kendrick's "very absolute" character, as Gray phrases it in a letter to Joseph Barrell, July 13, 1789 (below, page 122). Incidentally, it casts some light upon the real relations of the captains. [return]
8556
8557150 Wickananish, the head chief of Clayoquot Sound and vicinity. [return]
8558
8559151 In July, 1788, at Nootka Sound, the crew of the Felice mutinied and attempted to get possession of the ship. The attempt failed, and some eight men, including the boatswain, were put ashore. See the details in Meares, Voyages, 186ff., 190, 225. [return]
8560
8561152 Meares states (Voyages, 225) that the ringleader of the mutineers, a "discarded boatswain," broke from his confinement on shore and arranged to enter service on the Columbia. "For the master of that vessel, with what propriety I shall not pretend to observe, not only sent him provisions to his hiding-place in the woods, but, immediately on the departure of our ships, received him on board his vessel, in which he did duty before the mast." [return]
8562
8563153 Clayoquot Sound, lying between Barkley Sound on the southward, and Nootka Sound on the northward. [return]
8564
8565154 Pages [89-94] are three inserted leaves containing a "Vocabulary of Nootka Sound." See below, pages 102-107. [return]
8566
8567155 It will be observed that Haswell uses indifferently the American name, Hancock's Harbor, and the Indian name, Clayoquot. [return]
8568
8569156 Captain Cook, seeking a passage between the Atlantic and Pacific oceans, anchored in Nootka Sound, March 30, 1778. Voyage to the Pacific Ocean, II. 269. [return]
8570
8571157 On August 8, 1774, the Santiago, a Spanish exploring vessel, under Juan Perez, anchored near Estevan Point, the southern cape of Hope Bay, in which Nootka Sound is situated. No landing was made, but some intercourse with the natives took place over the ship's side. The vessel only stayed a few hours and left hurriedly owing to bad weather. See Crespi's and Peña's diaries in Publications, Historical Society of Southern California (1891), 131ff., 201ff.; Bolton, Fray Juan Crespi, 346ff. [return]
8572
8573158 The true position of Friendly Cove, Nootka Sound, is 49° 35' 31' North and 126° 37' 32' West. Esperanza Inlet connects with Nootka Sound by Tasis Narrows and Tasis Canal, thus making Nootka Island. [return]
8574
8575159 "Uquot" is the anglicized form of an Indian word meaning "the village exposed to the winds." John T. Walbran, British Columbia Coast Names (Ottawa, 1909), 194. Friendly Cove is commonly stated to have been so named by James Strange in his expedition of 1786, but Strange himself speaks of it as "that bay mentioned by Captain Cook under the name of Friendly Harbour." James Strange's Journal, A. V. V. Ayvar, Editor (Madras, 1928), 20. [return]
8576
8577160 Muchalat, on the eastern branch of Nootka Sound, about fifteen miles from Friendly Cove. [return]
8578
8579161 The camass. [return]
8580
8581162 Probably the wapato, the native potato. [return]
8582
8583163 The wool was from the mountain goat. The mountain sheep, despite its name, has no wool, but hair almost as coarse as that of a deer. Some of the wool used at Nootka Sound came from the dogs. Neither Captain Cook nor the surgeon, Ellis, could tell whence it was obtained; but John Ledyard, in his Journal of Capt. Cook's Last Voyage to the Pacific Ocean (Hartford, 1783), says (71) that besides their bark garments they had another kind "principally made with the hair of their dogs which are almost white, and of the domestic kind." See, too, Frederic W. Howay, "The Dog's Hair Blankets of the Coast Salish," Washington Historical Quarterly, IX (April, 1918), 83-92. [return]
8584
8585164 There is an illustration of these cedar bark hats in the atlas to Cook's Voyage to the Pacific Ocean. [return]
8586
8587165 This description of the inside of a Nootkan house corresponds with the more detailed one to be found in Cook, Voyage to the Pacific Ocean, II. 315. [return]
8588
8589166 "Extorted" should be, of course, "distorted." Captain Cook thought these carvings, which he says were called klumma, were probably of their gods (ibid., II. 317), but we now know that they were their totems. See Charles Hill-Tout, British North America: The Far West, The Home of the Salish and Dßnß (London, 1907), Chapter IX, and especially page 177. [return]
8590
8591167 A murre is a small aquatic bird, about the size of a widgeon, and too fishy to eat. There are thousands of them on Triangle Island, off Cape Scott, the northwestern end of Vancouver Island, where they breed. They lay a very large egg, in color a smoky white. [return]
8592
8593168 The same practice prevailed seventy years later. "The natives put cedar branches or stalks of long grass into the water, and press them to the bottom with stones . . . and when the herrings have deposited their spawn the pieces of grass or the branches are lifted, and the egg-bed is found firmly adhering to them." Sproat, Scenes and Studies of Savage Life, 223. [return]
8594
8595169 "The coffins of the highest chiefs, and sometimes also those of well-born infants are hoisted to a great height from the ground. . . . Old women and men and boys of no rank in the tribe, are wrapped in worn blankets or mats, and simply left upon the ground." Ibid., 258-259. [return]
8596
8597170 Polygamy and purchase of wives were common amongst the Indians of the Northwest Coast. "I was offered a young, pretty, well-born woman for one hundred blankets; but a wife can be bought sometimes for an old axe or half-a-dozen mink-skins. Though a wife is always purchased, it is a point of honour that the purchase-money given for a woman of rank -- not for a common woman -- shall, some time or other, be returned by her friends or her tribe in a present of equal value." Ibid., 97-98. [return]
8598
8599171 The established opinion today is that the Indians of the Northwest Coast were not cannibals; and that anything that appeared to be cannibalism was in reality merely formal and a part of some ceremonial. Cook, Ledyard, Meares, Galiano and Valdes, Malaspina, Roquefeuil, and many others entertained the view that these people were cannibals; but not one well authenticated instance of cannibalism has been produced. [return]
8600
8601172 The harpoon shaft was frequently made of yew; the points of large mussel shell were fastened to an eyed lanyard of whale sinew. When about to be used, a long rope of twisted cedar was attached to the eye. [return]
8602
8603173 Cape Estevan; Captain Cook's name, "Breakers Point," has given way to the name applied by the Spaniard, Perez, in 1774. [return]
8604
8605174 A brother of Wickananish, the head chief of Clayoquot. He is frequently mentioned in Haswell's second log of the Columbia. [return]
8606
8607175 Meares's Port Cox, in Clayoquot Sound, latitude 49°08'. Clayoquot Sound is about forty miles to the southward of Nootka Sound. [return]
8608
8609176 An Indian village, now on Flores Island, Clayoquot Sound, but in 1789 on the ocean side of Vargas Island in the same sound. The name is composed of two Indian words, "Ahous aht," meaning "people ('aht') living with their backs to the land and mountains." It became attached to this village because from it there was an unobstructed view of the ocean. [return]
8610
8611177 Chief Cleaskinah, who exchanged names (a token of friendship) with Captain James Hanna of the Sea Otter, 1785 and 1786. Meares (Voyages, 136) describes him, in June, 1788, as "about forty and carried in his looks all the exterior marks of pleasantry and good humour." [return]
8612
8613178 Meares's Port Cox, in Clayoquot Sound. See the map (so-called) in ibid., 202. [return]
8614
8615179 Opitsat (now called Clayoquot) was the principal Indian village on Clayoquot Sound, on the southwest side of Meares Island. It is the most northerly of the villages shown by Meares on the map in his Voyages (202). The village of Haswell's day was destroyed in March, 1792, by Captain Gray's orders. Boit gives the story in his log. [return]
8616
8617180 Clayoquot, the name of the Indian tribe inhabiting the sound; Hancock, the name given by the Americans on this voyage, never came into general use. [return]
8618
8619181 That is, pass close to Observatory, now Lennard, Island and keep close to the western shore. [return]
8620
8621182 This village bears the same name today, but it is usually spelled "Echachis." [return]
8622
8623183 Harbour Island is now called Stubbs Island. [return]
8624
8625184 In this case four to five fathoms would be called "good water." [return]
8626
8627185 Evidently the Port Cox of Meares. Compare the above description with the map above mentioned in Meares, Voyages, 202. [return]
8628
8629186 The modern spelling is "Opitsat." [return]
8630
8631187 Nootka Sound. [return]
8632
8633188 This is evidently a description of Opitsat. Boit gives a description of this village under date March 27, 1792. [return]
8634
8635189 This opinion was in the air. Haswell returns to it later in his entry for May, 1789 (see page 87, below). Meares exploited it in his celebrated map, on which he showed the "track of the American sloop Washington in the autumn of 1789." Vancouver, in 1792, proved the existence of the island that now bears his name by sailing through the passage between Vancouver Island and the mainland. [return]
8636
8637190 In Meares's Voyages (143) there is a sketch of this harbor under the name of Port Cox. Two of the villages shown in that sketch are Echachis and Opitsat, the latter being the northernmost. Perhaps Haswell's Oakaminah is the Indian fishing station on Tofino Inlet, Clayoquot Sound, known as Okeamin. The river may be Kennedy River, which flows into Tofino Inlet out of Kennedy Lake. [return]
8638
8639191 The Indians of this vicinity were remarkable, in the hunting of whales, for their use of inflated seal-skins to impede the movements of the great mammal. Sproat's Scenes and Studies of Savage Life contains (227-228) an excellent description of Indian whaling as practised at Clayoquot. [return]
8640
8641192 The Washington has sailed southeasterly from Nootka Sound to Clayoquot Sound. She now continues her course southeasterly along the Vancouver Island shore to Barkley Sound, which the Americans called Company's Bay. [return]
8642
8643193 Probably Cloöse, then, it would seem, known as Nitinat, situated about a mile eastward of the river discharging Nitinat Lake. It is in latitude 48° 36' North and longitude 124° 46' West. [return]
8644
8645194 Port San Juan, on Vancouver Island, just inside the entrance of the Strait of Juan de Fuca; the Port Hawkesbury of Meares; by the Indians called Pachenat; by the Americans, Poverty Cove. [return]
8646
8647195 Sproat (Scenes and Studies of Savage Life, 132ff.) says that the Nitinats have more words and changes of verbal form peculiar to themselves than any of the other Nootkan tribes. The Pachenats (a division of the Nitinats), being on the boundary of the Cowitchans, would doubtless incorporate into their speech some of their neighbors' words and expressions. [return]
8648
8649196 In this harbor, on July 17, 1788, the longboat of Meares's Felice was attacked by the natives. The sailors replied with firearms. Probably this is the experience that made them acquainted with the effect of such weapons. See Meares, Voyages, 176ff., and appendix number 4. Haswell is right in his statement that the Washington was the first vessel to enter the port, Meares's longboat from the Felice not being a vessel. [return]
8650
8651197 A nautical term meaning "without obstruction." [return]
8652
8653198 Tatooch, the chief of Cape Flattery and vicinity. "I had been given to understand that this promontory was by the natives called Classet; but now finding that this name had originated only from that of an inferior chief residing in its neighbourhood, I have therefore resumed Captain Cook's original appellation of Cape Flattery." George Vancouver, A Voyage of Discovery to the North Pacific Ocean (London, 1801), II. 390. [return]
8654
8655199 The blankets were probably of dog's hair. "The natives of Tatooch show much ingenuity in manufacturing blankets from the hair of their dogs. On a little island a few miles from the coast they have a great number of white dogs which they feed regularly every day. From the wool of these dogs and the fibres of the Cypress they make a very strong blanket." "Dr. John Scouler's Journal of a Voyage to N. W. America [1824-1826]," Oregon Historical Quarterly, VI (June, 1905), 196. See Frederic W. Howay, "The Dog's Hair Blankets of the Coast Salish," Washington Historical Quarterly, IX (April, 1918), 83-92, and note 4 on page 60, above. Children were frequently sold by the Indians of the Northwest Coast. Martinez, in his MS. diary, mentions their purchase by him for the purpose of teaching them the Christian religion. François Pßron, in his Mßmoires sur ses Voyages aux Côtes Nord-Ouest de l'Amßrique (Paris, 1824), II. 2, says: "Après une assez longue nßgociation, Makouina nous le [the child] vendit, moyennant trois brasses de drap bleu." [return]
8656
8657200 The Washington is now off Clallam Bay, some fifteen miles east of Cape Flattery. See Oregon Historical Quarterly, XXX (March, 1929), 32. [return]
8658
8659201 About fifteen miles eastward of Port San Juan (Haswell's Poverty Cove), on the northerly shore of the Strait of Juan de Fuca. This position and the one mentioned in the preceding note (and that referred to as having "the appearance of a harbour," which was probably Clallam Bay) mark Gray's farthest points up that strait. Captain J. T. Walbran estimated it as twenty-five miles from Cape Flattery. Gray told Vancouver (Vancouver, Voyage of Discovery, II. 42f.) that he had penetrated only fifty miles. It was this that Meares (Voyages, lvi) magnified into a circumnavigation of Vancouver Island. [return]
8660
8661202 Port San Juan, Vancouver Island. See notes 2 and 3 on page 71, above. [return]
8662
8663203 Waddah Island, near Neeah Bay, in the state of Washington. [return]
8664
8665204 Neeah Bay, on the southern shore of the Strait of Juan de Fuca, in the state of Washington. It is about four miles eastward of Tatoosh Island. [return]
8666
8667205 There is no such reef. Duntze and Duncan rocks he at about northwest from Cape Flattery and about one mile distant. Probably Haswell was misled by the fact that in their vicinity the cross sea which arises in bad weather strongly resembles heavy breakers and extends a considerable distance into the strait. [return]
8668
8669206 Tatoosh Island lies not four miles, but only half a mile northwest of Cape Flattery. [return]
8670
8671207 The Washington is sailing southeasterly along the coast of the state of Washington. [return]
8672
8673208 Neither Gray's Harbor nor the Columbia River was then known. In July, 1788, Meares, in the Felice, had discovered Shoalwater Bay. [return]
8674
8675209 After heading for the northward, Captain Gray again turns to the southward, or southeastward, persisting, according to Haswell, in a course that rapidly decreases his offing. Such incidents create the belief that Gray was as "absolute" as he charges Kendrick with being. See his letter to Joseph Barrell, July 13, 1789, page 122, below. [return]
8676
8677210 Flattery Rocks and Destruction Island, both off the Washington coast. [return]
8678
8679211 Clayoquot Sound, Vancouver Island. [return]
8680
8681212 Meares's Port Cox. [return]
8682
8683213 The Indian village Echachis, on Wakennenish Island, at the entrance of Clayoquot Sound. [return]
8684
8685214 Lennard Island, Clayoquot Sound. [return]
8686
8687215 Captain Hanna, the chief of the Indian village Ahousat. See note 4 on page 67, above. [return]
8688
8689216 Tatoochcosettle. [return]
8690
8691217 A large Indian village on Barkley Sound, now deserted. The name survives in the village of Sechart and Sechart Channel. The latter lies north of the Broken Group and connects Western Channel with Middle Channel in Barkley Sound. [return]
8692
8693218 It is impossible to identify this anchorage with certainty. It may be Meares's Port Effingham, on the western side of Village Island. See a view of that port in Meares, Voyages, 172. [return]
8694
8695219 The exact position of Port San Juan (Poverty Cove) is latitude 48°33' North, longitude 123°30'30' West. These early traders usually got the latitude nearly correct, but their longitudes were always very far from correct. Again the Washington is headed southward along the Washington coast. [return]
8696
8697220 La Push, south of Flattery Rocks, on the Washington coast. [return]
8698
8699221 Again, by force of wind and current, the Washington is near Cape Flattery. [return]
8700
8701222 The Strait of Juan de Fuca. [return]
8702
8703223 Cassacan, who is mentioned in Haswell's second log. [return]
8704
8705224 Amphitrite Point, the northern entrance to Barkley Sound. [return]
8706
8707225 Cape Estevan, the distance from which, by water, to Friendly Cove is about eighteen nautical miles. [return]
8708
8709226 In the Iphigenia, one of the so-called Meares vessels. She had arrived from the Hawaiian Islands on April 19, 1789. [return]
8710
8711227 Marvinas Bay, a corruption of the Indian name Mawinna. It lies some four miles north-northwest from Friendly Cove. It was a favorite anchoring place of the American traders, who sometimes called it Kendrick's Cove. [return]
8712
8713228 The date given in Meares's memorial for the return of the North West America is a few days after April 24. In the Haswell-Smith log of the Columbia it is given as April 23, 1789, as here. The schooner had come from the Hawaiian Islands. [return]
8714
8715229 Coopte, the Indian village at the mouth, or southerly entrance, of Tasis Canal. [return]
8716
8717230 Narrow Island, the small island at the entrance of Tasis Canal. [return]
8718
8719231 Tasis Canal. [return]
8720
8721232 Tasis, an Indian village frequently mentioned in Jewitt's Adventures. [return]
8722
8723233 The Indians had probably removed to Uquot (Friendly Cove), for Martinez, in his MS. diary, states that they were there when he arrived on May 5, 1789. [return]
8724
8725234 Hecate Channel, which connects with Esperanza Inlet, an arm of the Pacific Ocean. [return]
8726
8727235 As indicated above, the surmise is correct. Esperanza Inlet, Hecate Channel, Tasis Canal, and Nootka Sound separate Nootka Island from Vancouver Island. [return]
8728
8729236 See notes 1 and 2 on page 57, above. According to the entry of March 5, this mutineer had then been sent ashore amongst the savages. [return]
8730
8731237 The North West America sailed on April 30, 1789. See below, page 147. [return]
8732
8733238 The Washington sailed on May 2, 1789, on a cruise. See below, page 147. [return]
8734
8735239 This meeting was on May 3; both Haswell and Martinez agree on that. Martinez, in his MS. diary, says that the sloop was armed with four cannon and six swivels and carried "the American colors of the Congress of Boston." Having forced her to bring to, "I ordered her boat let down into the water and her captain to come on board." Martinez inquired their purpose in being in Spanish waters. "They replied that their ship was in the convoy of Captain John Kendrick; that they had left her in the port of Nootka with the frigate, named the Columbia; and that they were sailing along the coast of America in search of material for pipe and barrel staves. They said that the Indians of the nearby village had robbed them of the most of their hoops when they had left their casks on shore." [return]
8736
8737240 This was contrary to the spirit, if not to the letter, of his instructions, sections 14 and 15. They are to be found in his MS. diary (7) and in William R. Manning, Nootka Sound Controversy (1905), 305. [return]
8738
8739241 If Haswell correctly reports Martinez' statements, they were half-truths. He had been northward, but that was in the preceding year. [return]
8740
8741242 A strange statement. Martinez' MS. diary says: "They likewise said that there was anchored in the port of Nootka a packet from Macao, whose captain was a Portuguese, the first mate a Scotchman, and the crew English; and that she was engaged in collecting sea-otter skins." [return]
8742
8743243 The Princesa was on her way from San Blas for the purpose of taking possession at Nootka Sound. Martinez later seized Meares's vessels, four in all, in that sound, imprisoned the crews of two of them, and sent the two vessels to Mexico for condemnation as being illegally in Spanish waters. This highhanded conduct almost precipitated a war between Britain and Spain. [return]
8744
8745244 Nasparti Inlet, on the west coast of Vancouver Island. In that inlet was the cove so frequently mentioned in Haswell's second log, Columbia's Cove. [return]
8746
8747245 Kyuquot Sound, on the western coast of Vancouver Island. [return]
8748
8749246 This was, of course, the San Carlos, the consort of the Princesa. [return]
8750
8751247 Cape Scott, the northwestern extremity of Vancouver Island, in latitude 50°47' North and longitude 128°26'25' West. It, like the Scott Islands, was named by the Strange expedition in 1786 in honor of David Scott of Bombay, one of the large owners therein. The name Cape Ingraham never came into general use. [return]
8752
8753248 The Scott Islands, five in number. [return]
8754
8755249 Scott Channel, 5¼ miles wide, lying between Cape Scott and Cox Island, one of the Scott Islands group. [return]
8756
8757250 Queen Charlotte Sound, so named in 1786 by James Strange. It was called by the Americans Pintard Sound, but, again, the name never became common. [return]
8758
8759251 The Washington now sails from Cape Scott, on Vancouver Island, to the mainland. The general language renders it impossible to say with certainty where she is; but it seems likely that she is somewhere in the vicinity of Milbanke Sound. [return]
8760
8761252 See note 5 on page 69, above. Pintard Sound, so named in honor of John M. Pintard, one of the owners of the Columbia and the Washington, was the name applied by the Americans to Queen Charlotte Sound. [return]
8762
8763253 Probably the Kwakiutl language, which is spoken by the natives of Milbanke Sound and vicinity. Though the Nootkans and the Kwakiutl are of the Wakashan linguistic stock, the relationship is apparent only on close examination. [return]
8764
8765254 This is the labret. The Washington is probably somewhere near Milbanke Sound, because on the mainland of British Columbia that hideous adornment was only customary amongst the Tlingit, Tsimshian, and Heiltsuk. The latter were the most southerly and were of the Kwakiutl family, inhabiting the neighborhood of Milbanke Sound. The custom also prevailed among the Indians of Texas and Florida. [return]
8766
8767255 Dixon (Voyage round the World, 208) describes and illustrates a labret 3â…ž inches long and 2â… inches in the widest part; it was inlaid with a small pearly shell, around which was a rim of copper. The friars Crespi and Peña, who accompanied Juan Perez, gave the first description; and from their time downward until the custom was abandoned every traveler who saw the labret has striven to describe it. For another description, see Hoskins' narrative, below, page 205. [return]
8768
8769256 This may be Milbanke Sound or Laredo Sound, on the mainland coast. The general language renders it difficult to say where the sloop is, and the latitude is not to be taken as conclusive. [return]
8770
8771257 Dixon, in the Queen Charlotte, had been in that vicinity in 1787, and Douglas, in the Iphigenia, in 1788 and 1789; but the former had kept close to the Queen Charlotte Islands side in his trading, while the latter does not appear to have sought trade in that neighborhood. [return]
8772
8773258 The Queen Charlotte Islands, which at their southern extremity are about seventy-five miles distant from the mainland. [return]
8774
8775259 These soundings seem to show that after sighting the Queen Charlotte Islands the sloop sailed across Hecate Strait to within six miles of them, perhaps in the vicinity of Skidegate, and then steered north-northeast for the mainland. On such a course she would find the soundings mentioned. [return]
8776
8777260 Butterworth Rocks, which lie about 3½ miles off Tree Nob Island at the entrance to Brown Passage. The low island is probably Tree Nob Island. [return]
8778
8779261 Brown Passage, between the Dundas Islands and Stephens Island. The location of the cove cannot be identified, but the passage connects with Chatham Sound. The Washington is now amongst the Tsimshian Indians. She is not far from the spot later known as Metlakatla. Prince Rupert, the terminus of the Canadian National Railway, is in this neighborhood. [return]
8780
8781262 There are no wild turkeys in British Columbia. The bird was probably a sandhill crane, which is sometimes mistaken for a wild turkey. See also Haswell's second log, below, under date May 23, 1792. [return]
8782
8783263 Chatham Sound and Portland Canal. [return]
8784
8785264 John Derby, a shipmaster of Salem. Derby Sound is today known as Brown Passage, the latter name having been given it by Captain Vancouver after William Brown, the master of the Butterworth. [return]
8786
8787265 This non-existent strait was identified by the early traders as being first one and then another of the waterways of the coast. Haswell here appears to identify it as Clarence Strait or Dixon Entrance. [return]
8788
8789266 From Brown Passage the Washington steers towards Cape Chacon at the southeasterly termination of Prince of Wales Island, Alaska, and thence southwest until she sights the northern coast of the Queen Charlotte Islands. [return]
8790
8791267 This was the first meeting of the Americans with the Haidas, the natives of the Queen Charlotte Islands. [return]
8792
8793268 The Queen Charlotte Islands, so named by Captain Dixon in 1787. In 1786 James Strange showed their southern point on his chart, but he gave it no name, either thereon or in his narrative. [return]
8794
8795269 The Washington now proceeds northward along the ocean coast of Dall Island, Alaska. [return]
8796
8797270 This dramatic incident, which might have ended the cruise, probably occurred in some cove in or near Bucareli Bay, Alaska, on May 23, 1789. [return]
8798
8799271 The Indians on the Northwest Coast were not cannibals. See note 1 on page 66, above. Ingraham, in his MS. journal of the Hope, September, 1791, says: "I believe they are cannibals, yet this arises from no ocular demonstration but from their own confession and declaration that they had eaten men and that their flesh was good." Speaking of the Haidas of the Queen Charlotte Islands, Dr. George M. Dawson, in his Report on Queen Charlotte Islands (Montreal, 1880), says (167): "It is unnecessary to say that no evidence of cannibalism, properly so-called, is found amongst these people." [return]
8800
8801272 The Washington is proceeding along the western shores of Prince of Wales Island, Dall Island, and the neighboring islands. [return]
8802
8803273 The Queen Charlotte Islands. [return]
8804
8805274 The Washington has now reached Dixon's Cloak Bay -- Parry Passage -- which separates North Island from Graham Island of the Queen Charlotte group. There is a remarkable similarity between Haswell's account and that of Dixon two years before. [return]
8806
8807275 This incident has been more misrepresented than any other in the story of the Northwest Coast. Perhaps the most glaring is in A. C. Laut, Vikings of the Pacific (London, 1905), where it is stated (228): "At one point off Prince of Wales Island, the Indians willingly traded two hundred otter skins, worth eight thousand dollars, for an old iron chisel." For a description of these "chisels," see note 4 on page 45, above. They are what Dixon calls "toes." The furs which Haswell laments leaving behind were gathered in a few days later by the Iphigenia, one of Meares's vessels, under William Douglas. [return]
8808
8809276 "Custa" is now spelled "Kioosta." It is now a deserted village, situated on the south side of Parry Passage, near its western entrance. See Dawson, Report on Queen Charlotte Islands, 40, 162. Burling's (wrongly called William Sturgis') MS. journal of the Eliza, in the possession of the Massachusetts Historical Society, has a drawing of Kioosta as it appeared in 1799. [return]
8810
8811277 The women of the Queen Charlotte Islands exercised great power over the men. "Here," says Ingraham in his MS. journal, under date August 12, 1791, "in direct opposition to most other parts of the world the women maintain a precedency to the men in every point, insomuch as a man dare not trade without the concurrence of his wife; nay, I have often been witness to men's being abused by their wives for parting with skins, before their approbation was obtained. In short it seemed this precedency often occasioned much disturbance." [return]
8812
8813278 As usual on the Queen Charlotte Islands coast in the summer. [return]
8814
8815279 The Washington has been proceeding southerly along the ocean coast of the Queen Charlotte Islands. [return]
8816
8817280 Kioosta was the village to which belonged the Indians from whom the great number of furs had been obtained, probably on June 6. [return]
8818
8819281 Dixon Entrance. [return]
8820
8821282 Houston Stewart Channel, between Prevost Island and Moresby Island of the Queen Charlotte Islands. Gray, as appears later, named it Barrell's Sound, in honor of Joseph Barrell, the principal owner in the venture. It was a favorite trading place. Its real position is latitude 52° 08' North, longitude 131° 05' West. [return]
8822
8823283 Anthony Island, at the western entrance of Houston Stewart Channel. [return]
8824
8825284 This seems to have been the custom in the Queen Charlotte Islands. Ingraham, in his MS. journal, August 8, 1791, says that the chief, Cumshewa, was serviceable to him, for "he traded for his people." [return]
8826
8827285 James Colnett of the Prince of Wales and Charles Duncan of the Princess Royal, who were on the Northwest Coast trading in 1787 and 1788. The North West America, one of Meares's vessels, sailed from Nootka Sound on April 30 and returned on June 1, 1789. [return]
8828
8829286 These fortified retreats were common in the Queen Charlotte Islands. One existed on the little island opposite Skidegate village (Dawson, Report on Queen Charlotte Islands, 171); and Dixon saw one on Hippa Island (Voyage round the World, 205). The native name is "touts." As to cannibalism, see note 1 on page 66, and note 1 on page 95, above. [return]
8830
8831287 This was unusual conduct in a maritime trader. Ordinarily, when such thefts occurred, the maritime trader turned his guns on the canoes. [return]
8832
8833288 Cape St. James and the Kerouart Isles, named by La Pßrouse in 1785. These isles extend in a southeasterly direction from Cape St. James, the southerly point of the Queen Charlotte Islands, for 3½ miles, and the sunken ledge or reef, 1½ miles farther. [return]
8834
8835289 Cape St. James lies in latitude 51° 34' North and longitude 131° 03' West. [return]
8836
8837290 The mythical Strait of Admiral de Fonte is here identified as Clarence Strait, which extends in a general northwest by west direction 107 miles, and is of an average width of six miles. See note 1 on page 91, above. [return]
8838
8839291 The surmise was correct, as is shown by Vancouver's explorations, 1792-1794. [return]
8840
8841292 The Scott Islands, off Cape Scott, the northwestern end of Vancouver Island. [return]
8842
8843293 Cape Cook, the most westerly point of Vancouver Island. [return]
8844
8845294 See below, page 147; Martinez' MS. diary, June 17, 1789. [return]
8846
8847295 By the Spaniards called San Miguel. [return]
8848
8849296 The Spanish vessels were the Princesa and the San Carlos; the English sloop was the Princess Royal, later captured by the Spaniards. [return]
8850
8851297 "At five o'clock in the afternoon there came in the schooner [sic] Washington (Captain Robert Gray) of the convoy of Captain John Kendrick of the American Congress. She made her way to the interior of the port, where her commander was stationed in the frigate Columbia." Martinez' MS. diary, June 17, 1789. For Mawinna, see note 3 on page 82, above. [return]
8852
8853298 Thomas Hudson. The Princess Royal was now one of the so-called Meares vessels. She had been on the coast in 1787 and 1788 under Charles Duncan, but she was then owned by Messrs. Etches and their associates under the name of the King George's Sound Company. [return]
8854
8855299 The Indian chief called by Meares, Callicum. He was shortly afterwards shot by Martinez, who gives the following blunt account in his diary, July 13, 1789: "Irritated by such abusive language, I took a gun from among those my men had carried over when they went to bring the sloop in, . . . and I took another and fired it, killing Kaleken." [return]
8856
8857300 The papers of Meares's ship, the Iphigenia, then commanded by William Douglas. Haswell, in this and the preceding paragraph, is giving a recital of the happenings in Nootka Sound after the arrival of Martinez on May 5, 1789. [return]
8858
8859301 The details of these events are set forth by Meares in his celebrated memorial of April 30, 1790. [return]
8860
8861302 Almost all the traders have left vocabularies, more or less extensive. This one may be compared with Captain Cook's in his Voyage to the Pacific Ocean, II. 335-336; III. 54off. [return]
8862
8863303 This word lives in the Chinook jargon with the same meaning. [return]
8864
8865304 This word has also been incorporated into the Chinook jargon, and has retained the same meaning. [return]
8866
8867305 This word has also been incorporated into the Chinook jargon, and has retained the same meaning. [return]
8868
8869306 This word still lives in the Chinook jargon as "kapsualla," meaning "to steal." [return]
8870
8871307 This word has also been incorporated into the Chinook jargon, and has retained the same meaning. [return]
8872
8873308 The traders carried this word to the Queen Charlotte Islands where for a time it seems to have been incorporated into the language; but it has now been dropped. Cow, a chief of Kaigahnee, used it in speaking to Ingraham; see Ingraham's MS. journal of the Hope under date July 13, 1791. [return]
8874
8875309 This word is included in the Chinook jargon and means "to barter, buy, or sell." [return]
8876
8877310 This word is incorporated into the Chinook jargon with the meaning "deer," "wild animal," and, loosely, "domestic cattle." [return]
8878
8879311 This word has also been incorporated into the Chinook jargon, and has retained the same meaning. [return]
8880
8881312 This word has also been incorporated into the Chinook jargon, and has retained the same meaning. [return]
8882
8883313 Martinez, in his MS. diary, under date July 13, 1789, says that Callicum (whom he calls Keleken) insulted him by calling him a bad man and a thief ("Martinez peshak, Martinez kapsualla"), alluding to his capture of Meares's vessels; and that, irritated thereby, he fired two shots at him -- the second with fatal result. Callicum is frequently mentioned by Meares in association with Maquinna, the great chief of Nootka. Meares (Voyages, 182) shows these two chiefs arrayed in sea-otter skins. [return]
8884
8885314 In the form "klootchman," meaning "woman," this word exists in the Chinook jargon. [return]
8886
8887315 Incorporated into the Chinook jargon with the meaning "to work." It has in that jargon a function similar to the French faire. [return]
8888
8889316 Its present form in the Chinook jargon is "kokshutt," "to break or destroy." [return]
8890
8891317 In the Chinook jargon its meaning today is "to talk" or "speech." [return]
8892
8893318 This word is found in the Chinook jargon today with the meaning "small" or "a child." [return]
8894
8895319 Muchalat, in the eastern part of Nootka Sound. [return]
8896
8897320 Perhaps Ahousat, in Clayoquot Sound. [return]
8898
8899321 The names following "Otsoosutt" are intended for Kelsemart, Clayoquot, Ucluelet, Cloöse, and Tatoosh. [return]
8900
8901322 Nuchatlitz, an inlet in the northwestern part of Nootka Island. [return]
8902
8903323 Ahatasat, an Indian village on Hecate Channel, Esperanza Inlet. [return]
8904
8905324 Checleset, an Indian tribe living near Cape Cook, northwestward of Nootka Sound. [return]
8906
8907325 Senate Document Number 335 (32nd Congress, 1st Session). [return]
8908
8909326 Except where otherwise stated, the originals of all the material printed in this section are in the possession of the Massachusetts Historical Society. [return]
8910
8911327 Haswell's complaint is that Captain Kendrick did not give the Columbia a chance to show her mettle. [return]
8912
8913328 This letter, if written, has disappeared. [return]
8914
8915329 This agrees with Haswell's first log (September 23, 1788) but not with Kendrick's letter to Barrell, July 13, 1789 (below, page 121). Cf. Treat's letter (below, page 124). [return]
8916
8917330 This is scarcely the whole truth; for at Brett's Harbor, Falkland Islands, Kendrick had instructed Gray, in the event of separation, to proceed to Nootka Sound. See Kendrick's instructions to Gray, above, page 114. [return]
8918
8919331 Under date of May 6, 1789, Martinez' MS. diary says that Kendrick informed him he had entered to make repairs similar to those mentioned, and that in the winter his ship was damaged by fire. [return]
8920
8921332 The Columbia was not ready for sea until the following July, and then she sailed for China. On this first voyage she did not cruise a mile for furs. [return]
8922
8923333 Martinez, in his MS. diary, makes no reference either to his letter or to this answer. [return]
8924
8925334 Cf. Haswell's first log, December 12, 1788. [return]
8926
8927335 Gonzalez Lopez de Haro, in command of the snow San Carlos, which arrived May 12, 1789. [return]
8928
8929336 Kendrick set out to ingratiate himself with the Spaniards and succeeded, thus saving his vessels. Within ten days of the seizure of the Argonaut his eldest son entered the service of Spain, "abjuring," as Martinez says, "the heresies of Luther." Oregon Historical Quarterly, XXIII. 296. [return]
8930
8931337 The sailing of the captured British ship Argonaut from Nootka for San Blas. [return]
8932
8933338 September 22, 1788. [return]
8934
8935339 The Washington had reached Clayoquot on August 30 and Nootka on September 16. [return]
8936
8937340 Her first cruise was from March 16 to April 23; her second, May 2 to June 17. [return]
8938
8939341 When he made this pessimistic report, he had not cruised a single mile for furs. [return]
8940
8941342 Kendrick strangely fails to notice the seizure of the British vessels, and omits to mention that for nearly ten months the Columbia has swung idly at her anchors. [return]
8942
8943343 Cf. Kendrick to Martinez, May 8, 1789, above, page 118; see also below, page 124. [return]
8944
8945344 The visit to Juan Fernandez brought trouble to Don Blas Gonzalez, its governor. See below, pages 154-157. [return]
8946
8947345 The snows were the Felice and the Iphigenia; the schooner was the North West America. They were all under Portuguese colors, though in reality British. [return]
8948
8949346 This paragraph and the postscript give a glimpse of Gray's view of Kendrick and of the relations between them. [return]
8950
8951347 This accords with Kendrick's letter of the same date. But the changeful commander had plainly even then changed his mind, for on July 15, as Martinez tells in his MS. diary, the two vessels sailed together from Nootka, and the Columbia departed on July 30 under Gray for China and Boston. [return]
8952
8953348 The original of this letter is in the possession of the Library Company of Philadelphia (Samuel Breck Papers). It appeared in the Pacific Northwest Quarterly, xxx (July, 1940), 285-286, and is reproduced by the kind permission of the editor. [return]
8954
8955349 The sloop Washington, which had separated from the Columbia on April 1, 1789. [return]
8956
8957350 No other source refers to this accretion to the crew of the Columbia at the Cape Verde Islands. [return]
8958
8959351 John Nutting. Kendrick mentions his death but does not enter into any details. [return]
8960
8961352 The snow Iphigenia and the schooner North West America, Meares's vessels. They were, in reality, British. [return]
8962
8963353 The Argonaut. [return]
8964
8965354 For Haswell's account of the accident, see above, pages 93-94. [return]
8966
8967355 The traders then usually left the coast about the end of September. [return]
8968
8969356 Captain Simon Metcalfe in the brig Eleanora. [return]
8970
8971357 That is, she was captured by Martinez. [return]
8972
8973358 Kendrick made a "sham sale" of the Washington as he admits in his letter to Barrell, March 28, 1792, below, page 471. Grave suspicions of his purpose were afloat as appears, for instance, by the introductory description of the first voyage in his friend Hoskins' narrative in this volume. [return]
8974
8975359 There may be slight exaggeration in this amount; but Marchand declares that had he taken La Solide to Canton (Whampoa) the duties would have amounted to "not less than six thousand dollars." [return]
8976
8977360 This cryptic expression is all that Gray has to say about the transfer of command of the Columbia. Cf. the statement by Hoskins (below, page 164), who doubtless is giving his friend Kendrick's view. Kendrick's letter to Barrell, March 28, 1792 (below, pages 470-473), is as indefinite as usual. [return]
8978
8979361 See Amasa Delano, Narrative of Voyages and Travels in the Northern and Southern Hemispheres (Boston, 1817), 21, 39; Old Shipping Days in Boston (Boston, 1918), 9, 12. [return]
8980
8981362 The Columbia's cargo sold for 21,400 hard dollars; the expenses and disbursements (including commissions) amounted to 10,163.20 hard dollars, leaving 11,241.51 hard dollars to be invested in return cargo. See page 141, below. [return]
8982
8983363 For Kendrick's cruise, see his letter of February 6, 1790, below, page 136. [return]
8984
8985364 The snow is the Iphigenia; the schooner, the North West America; the brig, the Argonaut; the sloop, the Princess Royal. Only the two last named were sent to San Blas. They are the so-called Meares vessels. [return]
8986
8987365 The ninety-six skins were part of the cargo of Meares's North West America, captured by the Spaniards and sent on board the Columbia as security for the expense of carrying her crew to China. Gray kept twenty-four in payment of his charges. See Frederic W. Howay, The Dixon-Meares Controversy (Toronto, 1929), 80. [return]
8988
8989366 An outcropping of the forbidden private trade said to have been common on the Columbia. Compare this inventory with that (page 125, above) taken two days before the Columbia sailed for China and with Gray's letter to Barrell, pages 128-130, above. [return]
8990
8991367 The distorted information in this report must have been carried to China by John Meares's vessel Felice, which sailed from Nootka in September, 1788, and reached Macao, the Portuguese island referred to, early in December, 1788. This seems evident from the fact that the only other ships then on the Northwest Coast which later sailed to China were the Iphigenia and the Columbia; the former arrived in China on October 5, 1789; and the latter, on November 17, 1789. The interval between either of these dates and the publication of the item is too short to allow of its being brought to China by them. The Washington had reached Nootka on September 16, 1789; Meares departed on the twenty-second; and the Columbia anchored in Nootka Sound the next day. This, probably, accounts for the absence of any reference to the Columbia. From China to New England, the sea lane had already been worn smooth: Meares mentions fourteen American vessels, besides the Columbia and the Washington, as trading to China in 1789. Once the news had reached China, its transmission to Boston was, therefore, a simple matter. The letter from the governor of Macao does not appear to have been preserved. It is difficult to understand the statement that these two American vessels were bound for Kamchatka, for it was common knowledge that they were pioneering in a trade in the furs of the Northwest Coast as an integral part of the commerce between New England and China. [return]
8992
8993368 The original meaning of "chop" in the Far East was a stamp or seal; hence, a clearance, passport, or almost any sealed and official document. For a description of the mandarins' commercial methods, see Marchand, Voyage round the World, II. 96. [return]
8994
8995369 The bill of lading, which is reproduced in the New England Magazine, VI (June, 1892), 479, showed 220 chests, 170 half chests, and 144 quarter chests of Bohea tea. [return]
8996
8997370 A Chinese custom-house officer. [return]
8998
8999371 Lark's Bay, three or four leagues southwest of Macao, and out of the reach of inquisitive Chinese authorities at the time. Delano, Voyages and Travels, 43. [return]
9000
9001372 A Chinese custom house. [return]
9002
9003373 A Chinese broker through whom all purchases for foreign vessels were required to be made. Ingraham's MS. journal and the account of Marchand's voyage give intimate acquaintance with these unnecessary evils. [return]
9004
9005374 Smuggling to avoid the excessive duties, not the prohibition of importation of furs; for that does not seem to have been imposed until about November, 1791. [return]
9006
9007375 For some light on this man, John McIntyre, see Ingraham's MS. journal, December 3, 1791. He had long resided in Macao and was interested in the maritime fur-trade. McIntyre Bay, on the northern side of the Queen Charlotte Islands, was named for him by Captain William Douglas. [return]
9008
9009376 Evidently in anticipation of re-rigging the Washington as a brig or brigantine, a plan that had been long in his mind, as appears from Haswell's first log, October 26, 1788. When the Washington next visited the coast she had been altered to a brigantine. [return]
9010
9011377 The owners never again saw Captain Kendrick or their sloop, the Washington, or any returns from her trading. [return]
9012
9013378 This news item is taken from a somewhat lengthy account of the capture of the British snow Argonaut, one of Meares's ships, by the Spaniards. It merely shows that the Columbia and the Washington were safe at Nootka Sound in the summer of 1789. [return]
9014
9015379 This is somewhat of a puzzle. The Washington had not then been any nearer to Kamchatka than Canton. In July, 1789, when the Columbia left the Northwest Coast en route to China, the Washington remained there to engage in trade. Subsequent movements of the Washington appear to have been as follows: from Clayoquot Sound the vessel went northward, trading as opportunity offered, to the Queen Charlotte Islands, then a veritable fur-trader's paradise. Completing cargo, the vessel departed for China by way of the Hawaiian Islands.
9016Again, the statement that Kendrick had already returned to the sound -- that is, Nootka Sound -- is quite wrong. The Washington was at Lark's Bay, or Dirty Butter Bay, a small harbor some three or four leagues southwest of Macao, as everyone on the Columbia knew when that ship passed on February 12, 1790, homeward bound for Boston. There Kendrick remained until March, 1791. [return]
9017
9018380 This is an error. The Princess Royal, a sloop of fifty tons burden, left England in September, 1786, for the Northwest Coast, and arrived there July, 1787. The vessel traded on the coast in 1787 and 1788, sailed thence to China, and returning in 1789, was captured by the Spaniards. [return]
9019
9020381 Haswell gives February 28. [return]
9021
9022382 Haswell says about May 29. Kendrick wrote to Barrell on May 28, 1788, from Cumberland Bay, Juan Fernandez. Don Blas Gonzalez' certificate of June 3, 1788 (page 157, below), gives the date of arrival as May 24. [return]
9023
9024383 This date agrees with Haswell. Gray, in his letter of July 13, 1789, gives a wrong date, September 21, 1788. [return]
9025
9026384 The Columbia reached Saint Helena June 16, 1790. [return]
9027
9028385 This date corresponds with Haswell, but Meares has October 27. The difference arises from the fact that Meares came from China while the others came from Boston. The schooner was the North West America. [return]
9029
9030386 Meares's memorial says that the Iphigenia arrived on April 24 and the North West America a few days later; but the Iphigenia's log has April 20, which, allowing for the variance of one day, would correspond. [return]
9031
9032387 Haswell gives the same date. [return]
9033
9034388 These dates agree with Haswell, as regards the movements of the Washington. [return]
9035
9036389 The vessel's name was Princesa, "Estephen" or Estevan was part of Martinez' name. "Captain Arraw" was Gonzalez Lopez de Haro. [return]
9037
9038390 These dates correspond with those in Martinez' manuscript diary, with three trifling exceptions: instead of May 14, Martinez has May 13; for June 1, he has June 9; and the date of the sailing of the Argonaut for San Blas he gives as July 14. [return]
9039
9040391 This is probably a list of part of the trading goods on the first voyage of the Columbia. [return]
9041
9042392 Senate Document Number 335 (32nd Congress, 1st Session). This letter was probably written about June, 1793, for the Resolution (the tender of the ship Jefferson of Boston) reached Nootka Sound about May 19, 1793. On her was Solomon Kendrick. There he met his father, Captain Kendrick of the Washington. [return]
9043
9044393 The English translation follows:
9045Your Honor, since it was known here [Santiago de Chile?] that I had shown hospitality to your father, it will not be understood why I was removed from government office by this military authority, due to a mistaken idea that was formed about that incident; and although the king, my master, approved my conduct at that time, nevertheless, up to now, owing to the ill luck that this remote spot has unfortunately placed me in, I am suffering the consequences; notwithstanding the strenuous efforts that I have exerted to vindicate my regular conduct, and of having written to Monsieur Lßtombe, French Consul in Boston, and to your father, in order that they might render me whatever aid they could: with what results I cannot tell, for I do not know whether they have received my letters.
9046If your Honor, associated with your Captain, would kindly write to them about this matter and ask them to assist me, I should esteem it greatly: in which case your Honor can deliver the letters to the gentleman Don Manuel Porrasia, inhabitant of this port [Santiago de Chile?] and bearer of this, who is a trustworthy friend. [return]
9047
9048394 The word "Aermino" must, I think, be intended for "termino," meaning "period." [return]
9049
9050395 The English translation follows:
9051Don Blas Gonzalez, Cavalry Major of His Majesty's Armies, and Political and Military Governor of this place and Juan Fernandez Islands:
9052I certify that Captain John Kendrick of Boston, having arrived at this port on May 24th last, in the frigate named Columbia, under his command, with three subaltern officers and a crew of thirty-six men of his country, commissioned by his republic to voyage all round the world, and asking hospitality of me, explaining to me that he would require the period of six days, of which decision I informed the Viceroy of Peru and the military authority of the kingdom of Chile; having been detained four days longer than granted, due to heavy rains that intervened; without giving notice to the officers as well as the rest of the crew not to fail in any way in what they stipulated with me before permitting them the entrance to this port; and in order to be plain, I grant the petition of the said Captain J. Kendrick, on this Island of Juan Fernandez, the third day of June, 1788.
9053Blas Gonzalez [return]
9054
9055396 John Henry Cox found some of these medals at Hawaii in September, 1789, and gave a description of them; see George Mortimer, Observations and Remarks Made during a Voyage in the Brig Mercury (Dublin, 1791), 88. Martinez reports in his MS. diary, under date May 8, 1789, that two of them were found that day on his vessel. A reproduction of the medal will be found in this volume. [return]
9056
9057397 Out of this seizure came the Nootka Convention of 1790. [return]
9058
9059398 He sold that first cargo for $18,000. See Kendrick's letter to Barrell, March 28, 1792, page 471, below. [return]
9060
9061399 Kendrick's halting explanation will be found in the letter mentioned in preceding note. [return]
9062
9063400 Hoskins, though only a young man, appears to have been on intimate terms with Kendrick; he was certainly his strong supporter. [return]
9064
9065401 The Columbia is leaving Boston on the anniversary of her first departure three years before, thus affording an opportunity of comparing the two masters. [return]
9066
9067402 Under Kendrick the Columbia did not reach Santiago, Cape Verde Islands, until November 16; but under Gray she covers the same distance in a month. [return]
9068
9069403 Evidently near Cape Percival, the most westerly point of the islands. There Gray stays ten days; Kendrick stayed twelve or thirteen. [return]
9070
9071404 See page 17, note 1, above. [return]
9072
9073405 Probably an American-built vessel under French colors, for Ingraham about ten days before in the same vicinity had met a similar French whaler. He says in his MS. journal, under date January 22, 1792: "The great encouragement given by the French government to Americans to settle in France, and fit out ships in the whaling service, has induced many of our countrymen to emigrate." [return]
9074
9075406 Between latitude 51° and 53° South, and between longitude 57° and 62° West. [return]
9076
9077407 See Burney, Chronological History, v. 143ff., 155. [return]
9078
9079408 This chart appears not to have survived. [return]
9080
9081409 Tussock grass, a native of the Falkland Islands. [return]
9082
9083410 For Boit's comment, see below, page 367. [return]
9084
9085411 A cape on Staten Island. [return]
9086
9087412 Cf. Boit's humorous account, below, page 368. [return]
9088
9089413 Cook's chart places Roca Partida in about 18° N. and 128° W., and Los Majos in about 20° N. and 135° W. He was not within a thousand miles of these locations, and doubtless took them from Spanish charts. See Twenty-First Annual Report, Hawaiian Historical Society (1913), 23; E. H. Dahlgren, Were the Hawaiian Islands Visited by Spaniards? (Stockholm, 1916); John F. G. Stokes, "Hawaii Discovered by the Spaniards: Theories Treated and Refuted," Papers, Hawaiian Historical Society, Number 20 (Honolulu, 1939). [return]
9090
9091414 Cf. Boit's statement, below, page 368. [return]
9092
9093415 Clayoquot Sound was not discovered by Captain Gray, but by Captain C. W. Barkley in 1787; Meares was there in June, 1788; Gray did not see it until August 30, 1788. [return]
9094
9095416 Probably the frigate Concepcion, which Lt. Francisco Elisa left at Nootka on May 4. See Henry R. Wagner, Spanish Explorations in the Strait of Juan de Fuca (Santa Ana, 1933), 142. [return]
9096
9097417 Elisa had left Clayoquot in the San Carlos on May 22. Ibid., 146. [return]
9098
9099418 Meares's Port Cox, near the entrance of Clayoquot Sound, and on the east side of Stubbs Island. See the sketch in Meares, Voyages, 202. [return]
9100
9101419 The Columbia had been eight months and five days from Boston; but under Kendrick the same voyage had occupied one year, less nine days. Compare the dates in Hoskins' narrative with those in Haswell's first log. [return]
9102
9103420 See page 68, note 2, above. [return]
9104
9105421 These criticisms of Captain Gray become more frequent as the narrative proceeds. [return]
9106
9107422 The potato, early introduced by the maritime traders into the Queen Charlotte Islands, became a staple food there and was exported to the neighboring tribes. [return]
9108
9109423 The trouble arising out of the seizure of Meares's ships at Nootka had not been settled when the Columbia left Boston; hence the interest in the Spanish force there. [return]
9110
9111424 One of the Hawaiian boys taken to Boston by the Columbia in 1790. The other, Opie, returned with Ingraham in the Hope. See Frederic W. Howay, "Early Relations of Hawaii with the Pacific Northwest," Publications, Archives of Hawaii, Number 5 (Hawaii, 1930), 11-38. [return]
9112
9113425 Boit mentions the use of spruce tea at this time as an antiscorbutic. [return]
9114
9115426 The natives' attempt to capture the Columbia in the following February may have had its root in the deception practised upon their chief in order to make him prisoner. Already appears the mutual distrust that marked the maritime fur-trade. [return]
9116
9117427 Though Ottoo was by some called a young chief or a crown prince (New England Magazine, New Series, VI. 478), he received a flogging for his attempted desertion. [return]
9118
9119428 Evidently the Princess Royal, which, after surveying in the Strait of Juan de Fuca in 1790, returned to Mexico and was still there in February, 1791. See Ralph S. Kuykendall, "James Colnett and the 'Princess Royal,'" Oregon Historical Quarterly, XXV (March, 1924), 36-52; "Some Additional Notes upon James Colnett and the 'Princess Royal,'" ibid., XXVI (March, 1925), 12-22. [return]
9120
9121429 Compare this report with that given by the Spaniards on May 7, 1791, as printed in Wagner, Spanish Explorations in Strait of Fuca, 164-165. Probably the name Douglas given to the Spaniards is an error and should be Barnett (Barnard, as here). Barnett was in command of the Gustavus III, which was at Clayoquot late in March; but Douglas was on the Grace, which did not leave China until early in April. [return]
9122
9123430 Thomas Hudson was master of the Princess Royal when she was seized by Spain in 1789 at Nootka. James Colnett was in command of the Argonaut when she was also seized by Spain at the same time and place. [return]
9124
9125431 Hesquiat Harbor, between Clayoquot and Nootka sounds. [return]
9126
9127432 Kyuquot Sound, on the west coast of Vancouver Island, next above Nootka. [return]
9128
9129433 Solander Island, about a mile west of Cape Cook. It is bare, has two sharp peaks, and is 580 feet high. [return]
9130
9131434 The Scott Islands, lying northwesterly from Cape Scott, the northwestern point of Vancouver Island. [return]
9132
9133435 Queen Charlotte Sound. [return]
9134
9135436 The wind being ahead, the Columbia turns southeasterly along the coast of Vancouver Island, making it a fair wind to reach Nasparti Inlet. [return]
9136
9137437 Probably that known by the Indians as Quin-eex, at the entrance of Nasparti Inlet and just inside Cape Cook. See the map in Report on Indian Affairs (Victoria, 1916), IV. 850. [return]
9138
9139438 Opsowis, about twelve miles easterly from Columbia's Cove (Quin-eex), and on the eastern side of Ou-ou-kinsh Inlet. [return]
9140
9141439 Owen Smith, third mate. [return]
9142
9143440 Captain Cook (Voyage to the Pacific Ocean, II. 316) tells us that these boxes not only contained their wealth, but also constituted the greater part of their furniture. [return]
9144
9145441 Captain Cook (ibid.) says: "Their houses are as filthy as hog-sties; every thing in and about them stinking of filth, train-oil, and smoke." [return]
9146
9147442 Hoskins' description may be compared with that of Captain Cook (ibid. 288-340). [return]
9148
9149443 Leaving the cove, the Columbia steers southeasterly along the Vancouver Island shore, passing Nootka, Clayoquot, and Barkley sounds and reaching Cloöse and the Strait of Juan de Fuca. [return]
9150
9151444 The Indians of the southern end of Vancouver Island were expert whalers; see John R. Jewitt, Adventures, 122f., 178f. [return]
9152
9153445 The Strait of Juan de Fuca is not in the latitude given by the old Greek pilot and does not correspond in any way with his description. It is now agreed that his supposed voyage is purely fictitious. [return]
9154
9155446 According to Boit (below, page 371), the marks of smallpox were quite general. [return]
9156
9157447 Near Cape Flattery, at the southern entrance of the Strait of Juan de Fuca. [return]
9158
9159448 Captain Cook (Voyage to the Pacific Ocean, 11. 328) records that when he arrived in March, 1778, the Indians of Nootka Sound had not invented the sail: "Sails are no part of their art of navigation." [return]
9160
9161449 See page 72, note 4, above. [return]
9162
9163450 Probably the position of the ship as told him by the navigating officers: Hoskins was a clerk; it is unlikely that he could "shoot the sun." [return]
9164
9165451 The Columbia now turns northward along the Vancouver Island shore, heading for the great trading ground of those days, the Queen Charlotte Islands, referred to by Hoskins (as by Haswell) as Washington's Island. [return]
9166
9167452 So named in Haswell's first log. The Columbia had been there on June 11, 1789. See above, page 97 and note 4. [return]
9168
9169453 The Columbia has entered from the ocean side. [return]
9170
9171454 Perhaps near the entrance of Rose Harbor. [return]
9172
9173455 The labret. For other references see the Index. [return]
9174
9175456 Hoskins returns to this subject on two subsequent occasions. See below, pages 204 and 240. For other accounts, see John Bartlett's narrative in The Sea, The Ship, and The Sailor, 320f.; Frederic W. Howay, "The Ballad of the Bold Northwestman," Washington Historical Quarterly, xx (April, 1929), 114-123; Frederic W. Howay, "A Ballad of the Northwest Fur Trade," New England Quarterly, 1 (January, 1928), 71-79. [return]
9176
9177457 Thomas Barnett, in command of the snow Gustavus III, alias the brig Mercury, originally under British colors, but now under Swedish. From certain entries in Bartlett's MS. journal (e.g., July 4, 5, 1791), it appears that this snow traded under sail. [return]
9178
9179458 The head of Rose Harbor. [return]
9180
9181459 Dr. G. M. Dawson, in 1878, heard of this Indian tobacco but was not able to see it and hence could not say whether it was really tobacco. Report on Queen Charlotte Islands, 115. [return]
9182
9183460 The chief of Skincuttle, an inlet about fifteen miles north of Houston Stewart Channel. He is frequently referred to in Ingraham's MS. journal. Hoskins mentions him again on July 24. [return]
9184
9185461 These were merely temporary habitations. They are much the same miserable shelters as are described by Dr. Dawson in his Report on Queen Charlotte Islands, 118. The covering was cedar, not hemlock, bark. [return]
9186
9187462 Kunghit or Prevost Island. [return]
9188
9189463 Anthony Island, on which is the Indian village of Nin-stints. Ibid., 15. [return]
9190
9191464 Captain Gray was at Barrell's Sound (Houston Stewart Channel) in the sloop Washington on June 11, 1789. [return]
9192
9193465 Captain Cook, speaking of the Indians of Nootka, says: "Their colour we could never positively determine, as their bodies were incrusted with paint and dirt; though in particular cases, when these were well rubbed off, the whiteness of the skin appeared almost to equal that of Europeans; though rather of that pale effete cast which distinguishes those of our Southern nations." Voyage to the Pacific Ocean, 11. 303. Ingraham says in his MS. journal under date September, 1791: "Their colour is as near white as any other." [return]
9194
9195466 The cutsark of the maritime fur-traders; Ingraham, in his MS. journal (September, 1791), writes to the same effect. [return]
9196
9197467 Clothing made from the inner bark of the cedar, which, after being beaten until it was fine and soft, was spun into a coarse yarn and woven into a sort of robe or mantle. [return]
9198
9199468 "Large sharks abound on the northern and western coasts of Queen Charlotte Islands and are much feared by the Haidas who allege that they frequently break their canoes and eat the unfortunate occupants." Dawson, Report on Queen Charlotte Islands, 111. [return]
9200
9201469 This Indian tobacco was not smoked, but, after being mixed with lime (obtained by burning clamshells), was chewed or held in the cheek. Dawson, Report on Queen Charlotte Islands, 115. Ingraham's MS. journal (September, 1791) mentions this tobacco, of which he obtained seeds to plant in Massachusetts. [return]
9202
9203470 The spoons, both large and small, were made from the horns of the mountain sheep (bighorn) or mountain goat. Dawson, Report on Queen Charlotte Islands, 142. Neither of these animals exists on the Queen Charlotte Islands; but their horns were obtained from the mainland tribes. Probably heat was used to shape the implements. [return]
9204
9205471 The same game is described by Dawson in his Report on Queen Charlotte Islands (129) and by Ingraham in his MS. journal (September, 1791). [return]
9206
9207472 All witnesses agree on this. See, for example, Vancouver, Voyage of Discovery, IV. 254; Portlock, Voyage round the World, 290. Ingraham tells in his MS. journal (August 12, 1791) of an old Indian who, beaten by his wife because he had sold without consulting her, wished a refuge on the Hope until her rage cooled. [return]
9208
9209473 See above, page 90, note 2. [return]
9210
9211474 Cape St. James. [return]
9212
9213475 The traders soon discovered that there were no villages, except Cloak Bay and Houston Stewart Channel, on the western side of the Queen Charlotte Islands and in consequence no trade. [return]
9214
9215476 Kerouart Isles, named by La Pßrouse in 1786. [return]
9216
9217477 Up to this point Hoskins' unusually quixotic punctuation presented such serious obstacles to the reader that the editor found it necessary to omit many commas and semicolons. From this point on, the original MS. is almost completely devoid of punctuation. [return]
9218
9219478 Ingraham's journal entry for this date is as follows: "23d at 6 in the morning we descried a sail to the South'd of us and ahead as we were standing. I soon discovered it to be the Columbia and determin'd to speak her. Accordingly we made sail towards them. As soon as I tho't they could see us plain I had a French flagg hoisted at our Fore top gallant mast head and fir'd 2 guns which was the signall I inform'd Mr. Haswell I should make if I saw him on the coast in the small vessel the Columbia had on board in frame and which he was to command." [return]
9220
9221479 Washington, Adams, Federal, Lincoln, Franklin, Hancock, and Knox islands, of the group now known as the Marquesas. [return]
9222
9223480 The well-known Kamehameha and the almost equally well-known Kaiana. This account is inaccurate. The principals in the capture of the Fair American were Kameeiamoku and Kaiana. Kamehameha was not implicated. No attempt was made to take Captain Metcalfe's brig, the Eleanora; but her boat was stolen and a sailor killed. For a concise and correct statement, see R. S. Kuykendall, The Hawaiian Kingdom (Honolulu, 1938), 24f. [return]
9224
9225481 All these matters are set forth in detail in Ingraham's MS. journal of the Hope. [return]
9226
9227482 Named after Crowell Hatch, one of the owners of the Columbia. It is now Bonilla Island, in Hecate Strait, a conspicuous landmark. [return]
9228
9229483 Failing to make northing in Hecate Strait by tacking, the Columbia turned southward and is now in the vicinity of the southern end of Banks Island. [return]
9230
9231484 It is believed that Caswell had gone through Otter Passage, which separates Banks Island from the Estevan Islands, crossed Nepean Sound, looked up Principe Channel, and, continuing eastward, had had a glimpse up Squally Channel. [return]
9232
9233485 Many people then believed in the alleged voyage of de Fonte; but the geography of the region now conclusively proves it a hoax. [return]
9234
9235486 The Columbia now crosses Hecate Strait and reaches Cumshewa Inlet, one of the best places for sea-otter skins in the Queen Charlotte Islands. [return]
9236
9237487 Hoskins is right in both conclusions. [return]
9238
9239488 On the north side of Cumshewa Inlet, a most indifferent roadstead, so named from its hereditary chief. It is now called Cumshewa. [return]
9240
9241489 Again Hoskins is right in his criticism of Captain Gray. [return]
9242
9243490 The ship's position clearly shows that Hoskins has inadvertently written "west end" for "east end." The Columbia's course from Cumshewa Inlet, from which she had sailed twenty-three hours before, covered roughly ninety miles; and her average speed was about four miles an hour. [return]
9244
9245491 The Columbia, after leaving Cumshewa Inlet, has sailed northward along the eastern coast of the Queen Charlotte Islands, seen Rose Point, and, continuing northward, has now reached the entrance of Clarence Strait. [return]
9246
9247492 Somewhere east of Prince of Wales Island and in the mouth of Clarence Strait. [return]
9248
9249493 That part of Clarence Strait between Prince of Wales Island and the Gravina group. [return]
9250
9251494 Kasaan Bay, which in the fog had at first seemed a strait. [return]
9252
9253495 Clarence Strait, beyond the entrance to Kasaan Bay. [return]
9254
9255496 The Columbia now stands over from the western to the eastern side of Clarence Strait and reaches the western end of Revillagigedo Channel. [return]
9256
9257497 Guard Island, which at high water shows as "two low, rocky, high-water islets, one west from and considerably larger than the other, and both bearing shrubs and a few trees." Pacific Coast Pilot, Alaska (Washington, 1883), 82. [return]
9258
9259498 A creek which falls into the head of Ward Cove, which is six miles southward along Revillagigedo Channel. [return]
9260
9261499 An Indian village at the entrance of Cholmondeley Sound, long since deserted. [return]
9262
9263500 Hoskins' Port Tempest was, I believe, Tongass Narrows, near the western end of Revillagigedo Channel. Oregon Historical Quarterly, XXII. 349-351. [return]
9264
9265501 Sushin, on Cholmondeley Sound. [return]
9266
9267502 The ship has reached the western side of Clarence Strait near the entrance of Kasaan Bay. [return]
9268
9269503 The natives from Sushin and that side of Clarence Strait were Kaigahnee Haida, an intrusion into Tlingit territory. The newcomers were Tlingit. [return]
9270
9271504 The languages previously met were Nootkan, Kwakiutl, Tsimshian, and Haida. This was the first contact with Tlingit. [return]
9272
9273505 This cove is later referred to as Massacre Cove. Its location is believed to have been between Cholmondeley Sound and Skowl Bay, on the western side of Clarence Strait. Oregon Historical Quarterly, XXII. 349-351. [return]
9274
9275506 Joseph Barnes and John Folger. [return]
9276
9277507 Boit gives some details not to be found in Hoskins' version. See below, pages 375-377. [return]
9278
9279508 A portion of Clarence Strait, between Prince of Wales Island and the Gravina group. [return]
9280
9281509 The arm trending to the east is Revillagigedo Channel; that running to the north, Behm Canal. [return]
9282
9283510 Kasaan Bay. [return]
9284
9285511 Clarence Strait. [return]
9286
9287512 Cholmondeley Sound. [return]
9288
9289513 The so-called Chilcat blanket, a ceremonial blanket worn by Indians of rank and wealth. The warp was of cedar bark fiber; the woof, of the wool of the mountain goat. See a description and illustration in Albert P. Niblack, "Coast Indians of Southern Alaska and Northern British Columbia," Annual Report (1888), United States National Museum, plates 9 and 10; Dawson, Report on Queen Charlotte Islands, 107. [return]
9290
9291514 Haswell's second log begins at this point. [return]
9292
9293515 An American brigantine of Boston, 157 tons, which was trading on the Northwest Coast in 1791 and 1792. This reference, with those in Haswell's second log (August 16, 1791, and numerous others, including April 27, 1792) and those in Ingraham's MS. journal of the Hope (April 26, July 3, 4, 5, 6, 1792) constitutes our present knowledge of her voyage. Cf. Frederic W. Howay, "A List of Trading Vessels in the Maritime Fur Trade, 1785-1794," Transactions, Royal Society of Canada, 3d Series, XXIV. 121-122, 125. [return]
9294
9295516 Probably these skins were part of the loot from the Fair American, captured in January, 1790. Colnett had, in April, 1791, at the same island, obtained skins from the same source. [return]
9296
9297517 Vancouver's Voyage of Discovery (v. 113f.) has a short account of a plan by the natives of Kauai to capture the Hancock by scuttling her. This would appear, however, to be a different occasion, probably early in 1791. [return]
9298
9299518 Boit severely blames Captain Crowell for these deaths, and claims that the murder of the three men of the Columbia was a direct result. See below, page 377. [return]
9300
9301519 John William Adamson. He had been with Meares's expedition of 1788; in 1791 and 1792 he was second mate on the Hancock; and in 1793-1795 he was in command of the British ship Jenny of Bristol. [return]
9302
9303520 Subject to further investigation, it would appear that the chronology of early vessels built on the Northwest Coast is: in 1788, the North West America, at Nootka, by Meares; in 1789, the Santa Saturnina, at Nootka, by Martinez; in 1791, another Santa Saturnina, by the Spaniards at Nootka; in July, 1791, the Hancock's tender, at the Queen Charlotte Islands; in the winter of 1791-1792, the Adventure, by Captain Gray at Clayoquot Sound; and, in 1792, the tender to the Margaret of Boston, and the tender to the Three Brothers of London, both built at Nootka. [return]
9304
9305521 The Columbia has returned down Clarence Strait, crossed over to the Queen Charlotte Islands, and now, in company with the Hancock (and later her tender also), is following the northern shore towards Masset Harbor. [return]
9306
9307522 The so-called river is Masset Sound. Captain Crowell had named it Hancock's River, but the Indian name, Masheet, shown in Haswell's second log, has persisted in anglicized form. [return]
9308
9309523 Ingraham, in his MS. journal of the Hope, frequently mentions this chief, who with Cunneyah seems in 1791 to have had his principal home on Parry Passage and in the vicinity of Cloak Bay; but in July, 1792, Ingraham records that Kow had moved across Dixon Entrance to Kaigahnee (Clegauhny), Dall Island. [return]
9310
9311524 The lakelike body of salt water, now called Masset Inlet, which connects with Masset Harbor by the riverlike Masset Sound. [return]
9312
9313525 Nagdon Hill, on Invisible or Rose Point. [return]
9314
9315526 A Haida word meaning "long nose," applied to the low Rose Point. For a picture, see Pacific Coast Pilot, 64. [return]
9316
9317527 Cape Chacon, at the southern end of Prince of Wales Island. Brown's Sound here means Clarence Strait. [return]
9318
9319528 Rose or Invisible Point, the northeasterly point of the Queen Charlotte Islands, from which the sandy Rose Spit projects. [return]
9320
9321529 Ingraham had been at Cumshewa Inlet for a fortnight in the Hope and had obtained all the sea-otter skins the natives had. The Hope was still there when the Columbia arrived. See Ingraham's MS. journal, August 22, 1791. [return]
9322
9323530 This letter, dated August 22, 1791, will be found below, pages 469-470. [return]
9324
9325531 The Columbia, leaving Cumshewa Inlet, sails southward to Clayoquot Sound. [return]
9326
9327532 Hoskins at every opportunity criticized the conduct of Gray as a navigator and as a trusted employee; see especially his letter of August 21, 1792, below, pages 481-485; and even of Haswell, Hoskins entertained no high opinion, as the same letter shows. [return]
9328
9329533 Dixon, in the Queen Charlotte, discovered and named them in 1787 (Voyage round the World, 224), even though he did not actually circumnavigate them. Gray, in the Washington, was along a part of the northern coast in May, 1789; and Douglas was in the same locality in the Iphigenia in early June, 1789. [return]
9330
9331534 Hoskins was not aware that Skidegate Channel separates Graham and Moresby islands. Regarding them as one island, he mentions Kunghit or Prevost Island as the southerly, and Langara Island as the northerly of the group. [return]
9332
9333535 As usual the latitude is about right; in this instance the longitude is also very close to the correct figures. The British Columbia Pilot gives the exact location as 51°50' to 54°15' North Latitude and 130°54' to 133°10' West Longitude. [return]
9334
9335536 For the apocryphal voyage of de Fonte, see Martin F. Navarrete, Viajes y Descubrimientos Apocrifos (Madrid, 1849). The latest and most complete discussion is by Henry R. Wagner in Proceedings, American Antiquarian Society, XLI. 190ff. Mr. Wagner suggests (203) that the hoax was perpetrated by Daniel Defoe. [return]
9336
9337537 But Cook was right and Hoskins was wrong. The belief in de Fonte's voyage was quite general amongst the Americans. [return]
9338
9339538 On Cumshewa Inlet, Masset Sound, and Cloak Bay, respectively. [return]
9340
9341539 See Haswell's first log, above, page 96 and note 2. At the same place Dixon almost two years before (July, 1787) had obtained three hundred skins in less than an hour. Voyage round the World, 201. [return]
9342
9343540 Hoskins is running true to form. Gray's every act meets criticism from him. [return]
9344
9345541 The Nootkan houses had shed roofs, but those of the Queen Charlotte Islands had pitched roofs. [return]
9346
9347542 One of the earliest descriptions of the totem poles of the Haidas. In John Bartlett's narrative (The Sea, The Ship, and The Sailor, 307) is the earliest drawing of a totem pole. For other early descriptions see Ingraham's MS. journal, July 10, 1791, and Charles A. P. Fleurieu, A Voyage round the World Performed by Etienne Marchand (London, 1802), 1. 401, where Marchand describes totem poles as seen in August, 1791. [return]
9348
9349543 Ingraham, in his MS. journal (July 13, 1791), describes one of these fortified rocks; see also Dixon, Voyage round the World, 205. [return]
9350
9351544 This chief's name is spelled in various ways. He is the Blakow- or Douglas-Coneehaw of Meares's Voyages (365); he is mentioned by all the traders who frequented Dixon Entrance. In 1799 Burling, in the MS. journal of the Eliza, speaks of him (March 22) as an old man but the best known and most respected chief on the coast. [return]
9352
9353545 These iron collars were invented, or at any rate popularized, by Joseph Ingraham of the Boston brigantine Hope in the preceding July. See his MS. journal, July 12, 1791. Hoskins is wrong in thinking that their use was confined to the chiefs: any Indian who would pay the price -- three prime sea-otter skins -- could have one. [return]
9354
9355546 The Columbia has sailed southward through Hecate Strait and Queen Charlotte Sound to Cape Scott, and thence proceeds southeasterly along the Vancouver Island shore. The islands are the Scott Islands at the entrance of Queen Charlotte Sound. [return]
9356
9357547 Malaspina's vessels, Descubierta and Atrevida, which had left Nootka Sound on August 28 bound for Monterey. [return]
9358
9359548 This chief belonged to Ahousat, a village then on Vargas Island, Clayoquot Sound, and so situated that it had an uninterrupted view of the ocean. Its situation enabled him to meet many trading vessels; hence the frequent references to him. [return]
9360
9361549 The sloop Lady Washington, which Kendrick in the winter of 1790-1791, in China, had re-rigged: Boit says as a brig; Hoskins, as a brigantine; and Bishop of the Ruby says as a snow. [return]
9362
9363550 This is strange language in view of the disparity of their ages: Kendrick was a man fifty-one years of age; Hoskins was, as he calls himself, merely "a boy." See Hoskins' letter to Barrell, August 21, 1792, page 485, below, in which he mentions this meeting. [return]
9364
9365551 For other versions, consult the references given above, page 200, note 2. [return]
9366
9367552 For the Spanish account, see Wagner, Spanish Explorations in the Strait of Juan de Fuca, 191-192. [return]
9368
9369553 See, as to the value of this land, the letters from John Howel to Barrell, below, pages 491, 493. Copies of the deeds will be found in Senate Document, Number 335 (32d Congress, 1st Session), 20ff. For the complete story of Kendrick's land purchases, see Frederic W. Howay, "An Early Colonization Scheme in British Columbia," British Columbia Historical Quarterly, III (January, 1939), 51-63. [return]
9370
9371554 Probably the Indians were deceived, as Malaspina's ships, the Descubierta and the Atrevida, were from Old Spain, and the Indians had only been accustomed to vessels from New Spain. The Boussole and the Astrolabe (La Pßrouse's ships) had both been totally lost on the reef at Vanikoro three years before. See Peter Dillon, Narrative and Successful Result of a Voyage in the South Seas (London, 1829), passim. [return]
9372
9373555 Kendrick had been lying there since August 5 putting the Washington in condition to sail for China. He did not actually sail thence until September 29 -- more than seven weeks of preparation. Oregon Historical Quarterly, XXIII. 289. [return]
9374
9375556 On September 7 Marchand, in La Solide, was off what he calls Barkley Sound and records seeing the Columbia in that vicinity. See Fleurieu, Voyage round the World, 1. 495. At first he thought her Spanish, but in China he learned her identity. Ibid., 11. 115. [return]
9376
9377557 An Indian village near Cape Flattery. [return]
9378
9379558 An almost perpendicular rocky islet, bare of trees, and about one hundred feet high, lying half a mile northwest from Cape Flattery. [return]
9380
9381559 Probably the reefs extending a short distance westerly from Tatoosh Island. [return]
9382
9383560 Haswell and Boit also tell this story. See pages 301 and 380, below. [return]
9384
9385561 Classet, an Indian village near Cape Flattery. [return]
9386
9387562 There is at this point in the manuscript a marginal note in another hand: "Religion taught the natives by three Roman Catholic priests." Pantoja, of Elisa's expedition, had been at Neeah Bay, August 7-11, but makes no mention of the priests' activities. See Wagner, Spanish Explorations in the Strait of Juan de Fuca, 182, 190. [return]
9388
9389563 It took Gray only three days in September, 1792, to prepare for the voyage to China; but Kendrick has now been a month and more preparing and is not yet ready. [return]
9390
9391564 This wintering place, where the Adventure was built, was on the eastern side of Disappointment Inlet, Meares Island. The late Dr. C. F. Newcombe, an authority on all things Indian, stated that the Indians informed him that the Adventure was built on the southeast point of the entrance to Disappointment Inlet, opposite the present village of Opitsat. For the identification of this spot, see Samuel E. Morison, "The Columbia's Winter Quarters of 1791-1792 Located," Oregon Historical Quarterly, XXXIX (March, 1938), 3-7. [return]
9392
9393565 "The last winter [1791-1792] he [Captain Gray] had spent in Port Cox or as the natives call it, Clayoquot." Vancouver, Voyage of Discovery, 11. 43. [return]
9394
9395566 The Columbia and the Washington belonged to the same owners. It is surprising that so little criticism of Kendrick's conduct in failing to account to his owners is to be found. It is plain from his letter of March 28, 1792 (below, pages 470-473), that Kendrick realized that nasty rumors were current. [return]
9396
9397567 The building of the Adventure. [return]
9398
9399568 Their winter village. According to Haswell's first log it is far up a fresh-water river where they have plenty of salmon. I have elsewhere (Oregon Historical Quarterly, XXII. 293) hazarded the guess that it might be on Bear River; but for its supposed distance, the present Okeamin at the confluence of Kennedy River and Tofino Inlet might be Okerminna. It is, however, only twenty or twenty-five miles from Opitsat. [return]
9400
9401569 This village cannot be identified at present. [return]
9402
9403570 Boit tells much the same story. The animal was created by vivid Indian imagination. [return]
9404
9405571 Boit makes no reference to this incident; but it will be found in Haswell's second log under date October 23, 1791. As Hoskins surmises, it was probably connected with the seizure of Tootiscoosettle in the preceding June; see page 186, note 1, above. [return]
9406
9407572 This was the summer village; the winter villages were Inistuck and Okerminna. At this time of the year Opitsat was unoccupied, but the natives returned before December 10. [return]
9408
9409573 It is difficult to suggest an Indian village on Clayoquot Sound answering these geographical requirements; and it is impossible to estimate the allowance to be made for exaggeration and falsehood in them. See, however, page 249, note 1, above. [return]
9410
9411574 Boit merely mentions this visit in his log (November 27, 1791). The conduct described by Hoskins was the approved and accepted practice of the shamans or medicine men. [return]
9412
9413575 In the manifest of the Columbia, September 25, 1790, were included three hogsheads of New England rum and two hogsheads of West India rum. See below, page 443. [return]
9414
9415576 Traditional ceremonial and dance rattles of the coast, familiar since the days of Captain Cook. Examples are to be seen in any large museum of anthropology. For representations of the various forms, see Niblack, "Coast Indians of Southern Alaska and Northern British Columbia," Annual Report (1888), United States National Museum, plates 58-65. [return]
9416
9417577 The people have all returned from Inistuck and Okerminna, and in so doing have brought back the cedar boards that made the sides and roofs of the houses. These are now replaced on the frames. [return]
9418
9419578 Yethlan, the youngest brother of Wickananish. [return]
9420
9421579 A harbor lying between Clayoquot and Nootka sounds, and about thirty miles from Opitsat as the crow flies. It is today called Hesquiat. [return]
9422
9423580 Perhaps the village Echachis, on Wakennenish Island near the entrance of Templar Channel, Clayoquot Sound. [return]
9424
9425581 In view of the subsequent attempt to capture the Columbia, Hoskins later thought this step merely a manoeuvre to ascertain what sort of watch was kept at night. [return]
9426
9427582 The date of this visit, according to Boit, was January 17, 1792. Though Boit mentions the visit, he does not indicate that Hoskins or anyone else was with him, nor does he enter into such minute details as Hoskins does. [return]
9428
9429583 Captain Cook, in 1778, reported of the Indians of Nootka that "when offered spirituous liquors they rejected them as something unnatural and disgusting to the palate." The maritime traders had in six years broken down this repugnance, and by 1791 the Indian was inordinately fond of intoxicating liquor. [return]
9430
9431584 These war garments of tanned moose or elk skins were called by the traders, clamons. The principal source of supply was the Columbia River, though many were obtained on Vancouver Island. The natives were greatly surprised when shown that a rifle bullet would pierce them. See Cook, Voyage to the Pacific Ocean, II. 307. [return]
9432
9433585 A mantle or robe, which, when made of sea-otter skins, consisted of three skins, two sewed together lengthwise and one along the bottom crosswise. [return]
9434
9435586 Boit mentions the watch and the calls to each other, but says nothing of the torches. [return]
9436
9437587 Boit's account (below, pages 386-387) is very brief, but agrees with this in the main. Sproat, Scenes and Studies of Savage Life, gives a short account (265) of a similar ceremony in recent years. [return]
9438
9439588 See generally on these matters, Sproat, Scenes and Studies of Savage Life, Chapters 8 and 9. [return]
9440
9441589 The invariable experience of the maritime traders. Ingraham, in his MS. journal of the Hope, tells of his efforts to evade trading under the guise of reciprocal gifts -- a plan in which Skidegate, a Haida chief, was expert. [return]
9442
9443590 The belief in the insularity of the coastal front was general, doubtless derived from the Indians; but the fact was not demonstrated until Vancouver, in the summer of 1792, sailed through from Cape Flattery to Cape Scott. [return]
9444
9445591 The Indians near Johnstone Strait evidently had trails across to Nootka, along which flowed the intertribal trade. Vancouver, Voyage of Discovery, II. 269. The journey occupied four days, and the distance, says Vancouver, was twenty leagues. [return]
9446
9447592 The reference must be to land furs, for the sea-otter was practically unknown in the Strait of Georgia and the other channels back of Vancouver Island. [return]
9448
9449593 Another brother of Wickananish, but must be distinguished from Tootiscoosettle, the eldest brother. Clahaset, or Classet, was, according to Vancouver (ibid., 11. 49), "about two miles within the cape," not on Tatoosh Island as here stated. [return]
9450
9451594 Fort Defiance, as Gray had called the house ashore. [return]
9452
9453595 Hoskins finds fault with this as with nearly every other action of Captain Gray. But neither Haswell nor Boit makes in this case any criticism. [return]
9454
9455596 The name may be fictitious or it may refer to Echachis, an Indian village then on the south-easterly end of Wakennenish Island, Templar Channel. See below, page 269, note 1, and page 317, note 1. It would appear that in reality they were practising for the attack soon to be made on the Columbia. [return]
9456
9457597 A native product, of course, split from the cedar, and used for walls and roofs of their houses. [return]
9458
9459598 The lad who had recently been so named. [return]
9460
9461599 This form of the name more closely resembles that of the village then on Wakennenish Island, Templar Channel. [return]
9462
9463600 The friendly relations had continued so long that even this unusual conduct aroused no suspicions. [return]
9464
9465601 The boatswain was Benjamin Harden, who died about a month later (March 22, 1792) after a lingering illness. Here we find another complaint by Hoskins against the captain; plainly, Gray could scarcely do anything right in the eyes of this "prejudiced, discontented boy," as Hoskins characterized himself. [return]
9466
9467602 Hoskins does not realize what an affront to the tribe was the arrest by deception and imprisonment of one of their chiefs, a brother of the head chief. So frequently were the chiefs similarly trapped that in the following year Wickananish refused to go on board the Margaret unless a hostage were left ashore, and in 1793 he refused to trust himself on the Jefferson. Doubtless in this case the property was an added incentive, but it is plain that revenge was the primary motive. Boit's account will be found below, pages 387-389. [return]
9468
9469603 Owen Smith, originally the third mate, but doubtless promoted after the murder of Mr. Caswell in the preceding August. [return]
9470
9471604 Hoskins does not explain this enigmatic expression, but Boit throws a possible light upon it in his entry for March 27, 1792. [return]
9472
9473605 Probably Tootiscoosettle remembered his imprisonment on the Columbia in June, 1791. [return]
9474
9475606 The cutsark and skins would represent five skins and would be worth in China about $150. [return]
9476
9477607 This again illustrates the highhanded conduct so common throughout the maritime furtrade. Conjoined with the Indian's idea of vicarious responsibility, it accounts for many of the so-called unprovoked attacks by the natives upon the traders. Here again is criticism of Gray -- this time a proper one, though Gray was only doing what other traders did. [return]
9478
9479608 Boit says "she went off admirably." Cf. Haswell's account, pages 313-314, below. [return]
9480
9481609 The Columbia, which had been in winter quarters since October, is now beginning the season's trade. The new sloop Adventure is to trade in the vicinity of the Queen Charlotte Islands, while the ship takes the southern coast. Within ten years the vessels ceased to go into winter quarters, and traded throughout the year. [return]
9482
9483610 Another instance of the autocratic conduct of the maritime traders. Kendrick had done the same thing at the Queen Charlotte Islands (see above, page 240). The trader had come for seaotter skins, and them he would have by fair means or foul. It was not a question of nationality. [return]
9484
9485611 Cf. Boit's comment on him, below, page 389. [return]
9486
9487612 This Indian name for Adventure Cove seems to have dropped out of memory. The compass bearings show, however, that it was somewhere on Meares Island, about the southeasterly corner of Disappointment Inlet. [return]
9488
9489613 The Port Cox of Meares. [return]
9490
9491614 This village, according to the map in Meares's Voyages (202), was then on the southeasterly end of Wakennenish Island; it is now on Village Island, which is close to its southern point. The natives had fled precipitately on the approach of the vessels; perhaps they remembered Captain Gray's threat. Cf. Haswell's entry for March 26, 1792. [return]
9492
9493615 No other trader gives this name of a chief. [return]
9494
9495616 On March 27 Boit had, at Gray's command, destroyed the Indian village of Opitsat. Hoskins was there on the twenty-eighth but makes no mention of its having been destroyed. [return]
9496
9497617 Templar Channel. [return]
9498
9499618 These directions check very closely with those of Haswell in his first log. See Meares's map, Voyages, 202. [return]
9500
9501619 This sketch has apparently not survived. [return]
9502
9503620 Hoskins evidently knew nothing of the Japan Current, which moderates the climate of northwest America. [return]
9504
9505621 The natives were nevertheless stating the truth: oak, birch, and maple are all to be found on Vancouver Island. [return]
9506
9507622 The salal. [return]
9508
9509623 The huckleberry. [return]
9510
9511624 John Ledyard mentions dogs at Nootka in 1778 (Journal of Capt. Cook's Last Voyage, 70), as does Rickman's (anonymous) Journal (246); but Captain Cook says (Voyage to the Pacific Ocean, 1. 294) that dogs had not yet found their way to Nootka. [return]
9512
9513625 Compare this description with Steller's as given in F. A. Golder, Bering's Voyages (New York, 1925), 11. 214ff., and with Jewitt's description in his Adventures, 120-121. [return]
9514
9515626 See Cook, Voyage to the Pacific Ocean, II. 304. [return]
9516
9517627 For illustration of this conical cedar bark hat, see the atlas to Cook's Voyage to the Pacific Ocean, and the atlas to Viage hecho por las Goletas Sutil y Mexicana (Madrid, 1802). [return]
9518
9519628 See above, page 260, note 1. [return]
9520
9521629 The better opinion is that the Indians of the Northwest Coast were not cannibals; anything of that nature was purely ceremonial and symbolic. Though Cook, Ledyard, Meares, and many others charge them with cannibalism, none of these persons ever saw any cannibalism, and all their evidence fits equally with mere ceremonial or religious rites. See hereon Frank Boas, The Social Organization and Secret Societies of the Kwakiutl Indians (Washington, 1897). [return]
9522
9523630 So ends the journal. Evidently, like that of Ingraham, it was laid down to be continued at a later day which, unfortunately, never came. Rarely is one of these journals complete; usually it begins abruptly and ends abruptly. The interested reader may well compare these last pages of Hoskins with Chapters II and III of Book IV of Cook's Voyage to the Pacific Ocean (II. 288-336). [return]
9524
9525631 The Columbia is now about to leave Port Tempest where she has been since August 12, save for the short time that she was at Massacre Cove. [return]
9526
9527632 The ship is proceeding southwardly down Clarence Strait, Alaska. [return]
9528
9529633 The Hancock. [return]
9530
9531634 The account of the earlier visit will be found in Haswell's first log, May 22, 1789, though it contains no reference to this spot. Its true position is latitude 54°3' North, longitude 132°11' West. [return]
9532
9533635 Masset Sound, a narrow, riverlike waterway connecting Masset Harbor with Masset Inlet. [return]
9534
9535636 The constant complaint was that the maritime traders told different stories of their movements and successes. The trade was permeated with the spirit of competition and jealousy. [return]
9536
9537637 Joshua Caswell, who, with two others, was murdered at Massacre Cove on August 12, 1791. See Hoskins' entry of that date, above, page 221. [return]
9538
9539638 The Hancock had brought out in frame a longboat, which was put together somewhere on the coast of the Queen Charlotte Islands. It was rigged as a sloop and commanded by John William Adamson, formerly with Meares, and "a good man in the sea otter trade." Cf. Hoskins' narrative, August 20, 1791. [return]
9540
9541639 Cape Hancock may be Cape Edensaw, Queen Charlotte Islands. [return]
9542
9543640 The village of Cumshewa (Tooscondolth) is in latitude 53°3' North and longitude 131°38' West. The Columbia had been at this village on July 31, 1791. Hoskins waxes eloquent upon the prospects of trade there. He was right, as was shown by the great number of skins obtained there a few days later by Ingraham in the Hope. [return]
9544
9545641 Ingraham had been there for a fortnight. He had now on board 1,400 sea-otter skins, mostly obtained in that vicinity. [return]
9546
9547642 Ingraham and Hoskins give the name as Crafts; he was the first mate of the Hope. Boit calls him Cruft, which is probably correct. See Ebenezer Dorr's affidavit in Senate Document Number 335 (32d Cong., 1st Sess.), 25. [return]
9548
9549643 This success Ingraham credited to both the invention of iron collars as a medium of trade and his staying in one place where skins were plentiful instead of flitting from village to village as others did. [return]
9550
9551644 Cape St. James, the southern point of the Queen Charlotte Islands, so named by Captain George Dixon in 1787. [return]
9552
9553645 After having left Cumshewa Inlet the Columbia sailed southward along the easterly coast of the Queen Charlotte Islands. She continues her course southward towards Vancouver Island. [return]
9554
9555646 The Columbia is proceeding southeastward along the western coast of Vancouver Island. [return]
9556
9557647 Clayoquot Sound is the first inlet south of Nootka. Its latitude is 49°5'30'. The roads are Meares's Port Cox. The Columbia, says Boit, is now "in her former station." [return]
9558
9559648 See page 165, and page 238, note 3, above. [return]
9560
9561649 Haswell here takes another fling at Kendrick's dilatoriness. William Douglas had been in command of Meares's vessel, the Iphigenia, in 1788 and 1789 and was now owner and commander of the Grace, a schooner of eighty-five tons. The two vessels, the Grace and the Washington, left Lark's Bay, China, at the end of March, 1791. See Amasa Delano, Narrative of Voyages in the Northern and Southern Hemispheres (Boston, 1817), 42-43. [return]
9562
9563650 Houston Stewart Channel. [return]
9564
9565651 Hoskins' narrative contains a detailed account of the affair, August 29, 1791. [return]
9566
9567652 This was on July 12, 1791. Elisa's account will be found in Papers Relating to the Treaty of Washington (Washington, 1872), v. 176-177. As he "paso por nuestra castillo con les mechas encendidas y gente armada," the Spaniards, through a speaking trumpet, warned him not to enter, but he used a conveniently deaf ear. They sent an officer to forbid him from trading. Kendrick stated that he would obey the order; however, in leaving Nootka Sound he took care to pass out by way of Tasis Canal and Esperanza Inlet. [return]
9568
9569653 Kendrick did not actually sail until September 29, 1791; but he was always very leisurely in his movements. [return]
9570
9571654 The Descubierta and Atrevida, under Malaspina. In La Vuelta al Mundo (Madrid, 1885), Malaspina states (194) that on September 2, 1791, when his vessels were skirting the coast towards the Strait of Juan de Fuca, he saw an American vessel trading in that neighborhood. Cf. Hoskins' narrative under date August 29, 1791. [return]
9572
9573655 "They all seemed very fond of Captain Kendrick for he ever treated them with great kindness; but I believe their principal view for wishing to see him at present was to dispose of their skins at an exorbitant price which none but Captain Kendrick would give." Ingraham's MS. journal, August 4, 1791. [return]
9574
9575656 The French ship La Solide, under Étienne Marchand. Hoskins also mentions the vessel but does not identify her. [return]
9576
9577657 An Indian village near Cape Flattery. See Haswell's first log under date April 3, 1789. [return]
9578
9579658 Probably the reef which extends a short distance west from Tatoosh Island. [return]
9580
9581659 Boit and Hoskins tell the same story of Captain Gray's imprudent conduct in running in a dense fog and strong currents back and forth across an unknown channel some twelve miles wide. [return]
9582
9583660 Naspatee is Columbia's Cove in Nasparti Inlet, today known by the native name, Quin-eex. The American vessels frequently refer to Nasparti Inlet as Chickleset or Bulfinch Sound. [return]
9584
9585661 Vargas Cone, a remarkable summit, 432 feet high and very conspicuous from the westward. [return]
9586
9587662 Cf. John Howel's estimate of Kendrick in his letter to Joseph Barrell, December 23, 1796, page 493, below. [return]
9588
9589663 The Port Cox of Meares, in Clayoquot Sound. [return]
9590
9591664 Adventure Cove. The Indian name, according to Hoskins, was Clickslecutsee. It was near the entrance of Disappointment Sound, Meares Island, Clayoquot Sound. Opitseta is, of course, the Indian village Opitsat of the preceding narratives. [return]
9592
9593665 According to Hoskins the Washington sailed on September 29. He is very likely correct, for he tells of spending the preceding day as the guest of Captain Kendrick. [return]
9594
9595666 Fort Defiance, as they had called the house built in the cove, of which Haswell was in command. [return]
9596
9597667 Hoskins does not mention this incident. Boit refers to it under date October 7. [return]
9598
9599668 Fort Defiance and the sloop Adventure, then in building. [return]
9600
9601669 Treenails: the wooden nails then used in the construction of a vessel. [return]
9602
9603670 Cf. Hoskins' account under date October 18. Boit was fifth mate, but, presumably, is now fourth mate as the result of promotions consequent on the death of Mr. Caswell, the second mate. [return]
9604
9605671 Probably Tootiscoosettle, brother of the head chief, Wickananish. Tatooch was the chief at Cape Flattery. [return]
9606
9607672 Abraham Waters, originally fourth mate, but now probably third mate. He was later mate of the Adventure. [return]
9608
9609673 This happened even though the cove was protected by an island which narrowed the entrance to about one hundred feet and was so small that in any direction the Columbia was not over a stone's throw from shore. [return]
9610
9611674 The natives had a summer and a winter village. Opitsat was the summer home, near the sea. The winter home was, according to Haswell, Oakaminah; according to Hoskins, it was Okerminna. For the identity of the winter home, see page 249, note 1, above. [return]
9612
9613675 A strange epithet to be applied to the Douglas fir. [return]
9614
9615676 Cf. Boit's statement under date October 13, 1791. [return]
9616
9617677 Captain Gray took a great personal interest in their sick. Hoskins, who accompanied Gray on some of these errands of mercy, gives a lengthy description of the methods of treatment of the sick adopted by their shamans. See above, pages 254-255. [return]
9618
9619678 See page 272, note 1, above, for a comment on this episode. [return]
9620
9621679 See page 275, note 3, above. [return]
9622
9623680 Each trader blamed the other for trading such weapons. It would appear, however, that the only maritime traders who did not supply the natives with firearms were those who did not have them. [return]
9624
9625681 Highshakt may be, as Haswell suggests, a fictitious name. No village or band bearing that name is mentioned by any contemporary authority; nor is it to be found in the Report of the Commission on Indian Affairs (1916). But see the note on Hichaht, page 317, below. [return]
9626
9627682 Hoskins tells a similar tale of the difficulty of the launching. Haswell was later in command of the Adventure. [return]
9628
9629683 For Hoskins' tribute, see above, page 277; for Boit's tribute, see below, page 389. [return]
9630
9631684 This shows that Haswell was already in command of the sloop Adventure, now rigged and nearly ready for sea. She sailed a week later, on April 2. [return]
9632
9633685 From this point onward until September 28, 1792, we follow the movements of the sloop Adventure. This is the only record extant of her operations. [return]
9634
9635686 Unable to proceed northward, the Adventure runs before the wind southward for Sechart Cove, Barkley Sound. [return]
9636
9637687 Hichaht may be Echachis, the Indian village on Wakennenish Island, near the entrance of Clayoquot Sound. [return]
9638
9639688 The Adventure now puts to sea on her maiden voyage, intending to sail to the Queen Charlotte Islands. [return]
9640
9641689 Nootka Sound is the inlet immediately northwestward of Clayoquot Sound. Point Breakers (Cape Estevan) is at its entrance. [return]
9642
9643690 Ahatasat. The name as used here refers to the region of Esperanza Inlet, the inlet lying next to the northwestward of Nootka Sound, with which it is connected. [return]
9644
9645691 Quatsino Sound, the most northwesterly of the inlets on the ocean side of Vancouver Island. Haswell, in the Adventure, seems to have been the first to notice this sound. [return]
9646
9647692 Of the Scott Islands. [return]
9648
9649693 The so-called rocks are now known as the Kerouart Islets, which lie off Cape St. James (Cape Haswell), the southern point of the Queen Charlotte Islands. [return]
9650
9651694 The western side of the Queen Charlotte Islands had few villages and produced no trade, save at Houston Stewart Channel and Parry Passage, which could be reached as well by following the easterly side, a side that was rich in furs. [return]
9652
9653695 One of the Kerouart Islets. [return]
9654
9655696 These Indians, whose home was at Cumshewa Inlet, on the eastern side of the Queen Charlotte Islands, had crossed to the western side by Skidegate Channel, a shallow waterway separating Graham and Moresby islands. [return]
9656
9657697 Skidegate Channel. [return]
9658
9659698 Skidegate Channel is not navigable for vessels, being blocked by a bank at its eastern end with not more than four feet of water at high tide. [return]
9660
9661699 Haswell's computation is an underestimation; the distance is more than thirty miles. [return]
9662
9663700 Probably Rennell Sound. It does not, however, separate the land into an island. [return]
9664
9665701 The Adventure has now reached the western entrance of Parry Passage -- Dixon's Cloak Bay -- a favorite trading place. Tadents is an Indian village in Parry Passage. [return]
9666
9667702 The Adventure has now rounded the northern point of the Queen Charlotte Islands and is working eastward along the northern shore. Since Tadents was a popular trading place, the natives, knowing that many ships would come in the course of the season, held out for high prices. [return]
9668
9669703 Virago Sound, the entrance to Naden Harbor, which lies about seventeen miles to the eastward of Parry Passage and is quite shallow. The entrance is contracted to about four cables in width with a depth of about twenty feet. [return]
9670
9671704 Cape Coolidge is probably Cape North, the northerly point of the Queen Charlotte group. The name did not persist. Its location is about latitude 54° 13' North and longitude 132° 50' West. Haswell's longitude as given is reasonably close for those days. [return]
9672
9673705 Sea-otter tails were always sold separately from the skin itself. Jewitt says that on the tail the fur is finer and closer set than on the body. [return]
9674
9675706 R. D. Coolidge had succeeded William Douglas as master of the schooner Grace, a vessel without any legal papers (Ingraham's MS. journal, July 8, 1792); John Kendrick was master of the Lady Washington; Thomas Barnett, master of the Gustavus; Joseph Ingraham, master of the Hope; Samuel Crowell, master of the Boston brigantine Hancock; and Francis Joseph Viana, master of the Felice Adventurer. [return]
9676
9677707 This plan, though frequently tried, was always a failure. The sailor soon tired of the life and shipped on the first vessel that would take him. Ingraham, writing of this incident in his MS. journal, July 3, 1792, says that Captain Crowell had left one of his seamen and had taken a native to Macao as a hostage. He continues: "The native was now returned, but it seems the man left the port in the first vessel that came the present season, which was a Portuguese brigantine belonging to Macao." Legonee is Kaigahnee, on Dall Island, Alaska. [return]
9678
9679708 This chief of Masset cannot at present be identified. [return]
9680
9681709 Haswell now leaves Masset and, sailing eastward in Dixon Entrance, rounds Rose Spit or Invisible Point and continues southeasterly along the eastern shore of the Queen Charlotte Islands. [return]
9682
9683710 Rose Spit, which extends from Invisible (Rose) Point. [return]
9684
9685711 Perhaps Brundige Rocks, at the southern entrance of Clarence Strait. [return]
9686
9687712 This seems to be Dixon Entrance, which separates the Queen Charlotte Islands from the mainland to the northward. No other trader, so far as is known, used this name. The sloop now retraces her course westward around Rose Spit. [return]
9688
9689713 The Adventure, after rounding Rose Spit, continues her course in Dixon Entrance westward towards the northwesterly part of the Queen Charlotte Islands. [return]
9690
9691714 The common spelling is Cunneyah. He was one of the chiefs in Parry Passage. For the power of the women of the Queen Charlotte Islands, see page 96, note 4, and page 208, note 1, above. [return]
9692
9693715 The Adventure is now near the eastern end of Parry Passage. Its western end is Cloak Bay where Dixon, in 1787, and Gray, in 1789, had secured such large quantities of sea-otter skins at such low rates of exchange. See page 96, note 2, above. [return]
9694
9695716 The Adventure now proceeds southward along the ocean side of the Queen Charlotte Islands. "Tooscondolth" does not here refer to the village of that name, which was on the eastern side of the islands, but to the western end of Skidegate Channel, by which the people of that village reached the ocean. See page 320, note 1, above. [return]
9696
9697717 All navigators, from the days of the Spaniard, Juan Perez, in 1774, mention the prevalence of fog on the ocean coast of the Queen Charlotte Islands. [return]
9698
9699718 This port and cove have not been identified. The Alaska Pilot, following Ingraham's MS. journal, gives their latitude as 52° 35' N., which would indicate a sound on the ocean side of Moresby Island, of the Queen Charlotte group, in the neighborhood of Big Bay. It may be Big Bay. Haswell used Port Montgomery as a rendezvous with the Columbia; see below, entries September 1 to 4, 1792. [return]
9700
9701719 Coyah was the head chief at Houston Stewart Channel, by the Americans called Barrell's Sound. It lies some thirty miles southward of the unidentified sound mentioned in the preceding note. [return]
9702
9703720 There is a difference of 10' between Haswell's and Ingraham's latitudes; see Pacific Coast Pilot, Alaska, Part 1. 52. [return]
9704
9705721 The ship Margaret of Boston, James Magee master, which arrived at Houston Stewart Channel on April 26, 1792, and remained there until May 22. [return]
9706
9707722 Presumably the cove in which the Washington, under Gray, anchored on June 11, 1789; see page 97, above. No other trader, so far as is known, used that name. [return]
9708
9709723 For an outline of the story of the Margaret, see Frederic W. Howay, "The Ship Margaret," Thirty-Eighth Annual Report, Hawaiian Historical Society (Honolulu, 1930), 34-40. A space was left here for a drawing representing the two vessels, but the drawing does not appear. [return]
9710
9711724 This was because the Columbia intended to sail for China and thence to Boston at the end of the season of 1792. As a matter of fact, the Margaret sailed for China in November, 1792 -- only a month after the Columbia -- but returned to the coast in the early part of 1793. [return]
9712
9713725 The Kerouart Isles and the reef extending beyond them. [return]
9714
9715726 The term "Strait of Admiral de Fonte" was applied by Haswell in his first log to Clarence Strait. He now uses it as meaning Hecate Strait, which separates the Queen Charlotte Islands from the mainland on the eastward. [return]
9716
9717727 This is Tooscondolth or Cumshewa, on Cumshewa Inlet. The Adventure, after rounding Cape St. James (Cape Haswell), returns northward along the eastern side of the Queen Charlotte Islands. [return]
9718
9719728 This is the present Cumshewa Inlet. [return]
9720
9721729 This cove was on the northern side of Cumshewa Inlet. Ingraham's MS. journal, August 12, 1791, says that he ran over to a cove on the north side of the sound, which was very secure, and there anchored in fifteen fathoms over a bottom of fine gray sand and shells. [return]
9722
9723730 On one day, August 6, 1791, Ingraham bought in Cumshewa Inlet 176 sea-otter skins, worth then between $3,000 and $4,000 in China. [return]
9724
9725731 Hope Cove, judging from this statement and from the depth of water previously mentioned, may be the cove about a mile and a half from Cumshewa Island, a small barren rock at the northern entrance of Cumshewa Inlet. [return]
9726
9727732 Cumshewa Rocks, which extend a distance of nearly one and one-half miles southeasterly from Cumshewa Island. [return]
9728
9729733 Haswell means the village of Skedans, but the distance is exaggerated. It lay at the southerly entrance to Cumshewa Inlet and about nine miles from Cumshewa (Tooscondolth), which was on the northern shore. [return]
9730
9731734 Principe Channel, between Pitt and Banks islands. It is about forty-two miles in length and runs in a general east-southeast direction. [return]
9732
9733735 This cove cannot at present be identified. It was somewhere near Prince Rupert. [return]
9734
9735736 See page 90, note 2, above. [return]
9736
9737737 Clarence Strait, Alaska. [return]
9738
9739738 This would appear to be a name for Kaigahnee Strait, which lies between Dall and Prince of Wales islands, Alaska. The name does not appear in any other journal, so far as is known. "Hancock's Straits" are plainly not "Hancock's River" (Masset). [return]
9740
9741739 The sloop is now coasting along the western shore of Dall Island, Alaska, northward bound. [return]
9742
9743740 The cove on the Alaskan coast, in or near Bucareli Bay, in which the Washington was nearly wrecked on May 23, 1789. See the entry under that date in Haswell's first log. [return]
9744
9745741 The sloop now returns southward owing to unfavorable weather. "Douglases" Island is now, and was originally, Forrester Island, having been so named by George Dixon in 1787. In 1788 William Douglas, then in command of Meares's Iphigenia, called it after himself. Meares, Voyages, 327. [return]
9746
9747742 An Indian village on Cholmondeley Sound, an arm of Clarence Strait, Alaska. Haswell intends to sail east through Dixon Entrance and, rounding Cape Chacon (Murderer's Cape), proceed up Clarence Strait to the vicinity of the cove where Caswell had been killed in August, 1791. [return]
9748
9749743 For an account of Caswell's death, see above, pages 221-222. [return]
9750
9751744 These Indians were an intrusion of Haidas from the Queen Charlotte Islands into Alaska. [return]
9752
9753745 Columbia's Cove (Quin-eex) in Chickleset Sound (Nasparti Inlet). [return]
9754
9755746 This may be the entrance to Laredo Sound near the western end of Aristazable Island, where there is a bare range of hills with four conspicuous peaks that rise to the height of 950 feet. [return]
9756
9757747 In the vicinity of Laredo Sound and Milbanke Sound, where he had been in the Washington early in May, 1789. [return]
9758
9759748 Scott Islands, off Cape Scott, the northwesterly point of Vancouver Island. [return]
9760
9761749 The Adventure is now sailing southeasterly along the western coast of Vancouver Island. [return]
9762
9763750 The Columbia had left Pintard's Sound (Queen Charlotte Sound) on June 13. [return]
9764
9765751 The meeting with Vancouver was on April 29, 1792, a short distance south of Cape Flattery. See, for full details, Vancouver, Voyage of Discovery, 11. 41 ff. Boit places the meeting on April 28. William Brouton is Lieutenant William Robert Broughton. [return]
9766
9767752 The Columbia followed Vancouver's ships into the Strait of Juan de Fuca and the following morning was seen working out of it. This induced Menzies to believe that Gray regarded them as rivals in trade, "and this is conformable to the general practice among traders on this coast, which is always to mislead competitors as far as they can, even at the expense of truth." Menzies' Journal of Vancouver's Voyage, C. F. Newcombe, Editor (Victoria, 1923), 17. [return]
9768
9769753 This harbor was discovered by Captain Gray in the Columbia on May 7, 1792, on the coast of the State of Washington. Boit gives its latitude as 46°58' North. For Boit's account of the attack upon the Columbia, see below, page 395. [return]
9770
9771754 Captain Gray, in the Columbia, discovered the Columbia River on May 12, 1792. [return]
9772
9773755 The attack occurred on May 29, 1792, after the return of the Columbia from her trip to the southward, during which she had discovered the Columbia River. In Viage hecho por los goletas Sutil y Mexicana (Madrid, 1802), 24, there is a different account received by the Spaniards from the natives. They alleged that they had been unable to agree with Captain Gray upon the price of their skins and that he had taken them by force and fired on their village. [return]
9774
9775756 This attack occurred on June 7, 1792. See Boit's account, below, page 403. [return]
9776
9777757 This seems exaggerated; at this time only sea-otter were being sought -- though others were accepted. [return]
9778
9779758 Observe that the number falls far short of Boit's "about 500 skins." See below, page 405. [return]
9780
9781759 The Adventure was not coppered; hence the necessity of graving less than four months after launching. [return]
9782
9783760 The Indians were very whimsical in their ideas of barter; but copper was steadily in demand, though fault might be found with the size or thickness of the sheets. [return]
9784
9785761 Haswell places the latitude of this sound at 52° 50' North. See above, page 88, note 2. [return]
9786
9787762 Hoskins and Boit disagree with Haswell as to the date of this episode. Hoskins (page 484, below) says June 25; Boit (page 406, below) says June 28. [return]
9788
9789763 The Columbia, however, had not foundered. She made her way to Columbia's Cove, Nasparti Inlet, and thence to Nootka Sound, where the repairs were effected. The Adventure met her later on the west coast of the Queen Charlotte Islands, near Haswell's Port Montgomery. See the entry of September 3, 1792, below. [return]
9790
9791764 No explanation has been given of her sudden disappearance. [return]
9792
9793765 The shoals (Rose Spit) project northward from Invisible (Rose) Point. [return]
9794
9795766 This is the only place where Haswell uses this word to denote Masset, though on his chart he shows "Mahsheet." He usually calls it Hancock's River. [return]
9796
9797767 The Adventure is bound for Masset, which she reaches that afternoon. The hummock is Nagdon Hill (called Tow Hill by Dr. Dawson), a small bluff elevation about nine miles from Invisible Point. [return]
9798
9799768 The French ship La Flavie, of 600 tons. Haswell gives a rßsumß of her movements in his entry for August 3. Very little is as yet known about this vessel, but there are scattered references to her in Viage hecho por las goletas, 20; Vancouver, Voyage of Discovery, IV. 289, VI. 399; Martin Sauer, Account of a Geographical and Astronomical Expedition (London, 1802), 287, 314. Her captain was M. Magon. See Transactions, Royal Society of Canada, Third Series, XXIV, Section Two, 126. [return]
9800
9801769 The reference is to Francis Joseph Viana, who was Portuguese supercargo on Meares's snow Iphigenia Nubiana when she was masquerading as a Portuguese bottom in 1788 and 1789. There is some confusion here, for either he or some person of the same name was on the coast this year in command of the Felice. See Haswell's later entry under date July 28, 1792, with note thereon. [return]
9802
9803770 Adamson was in charge of the Hancock's longboat, not of a "ship" as stated here. See page 295, note 1, above. [return]
9804
9805771 There is some confusion here, for William Rogers, who was on the Northwest Coast in 1791 in command of the snow Fairy, was at this time en route to Boston, having sailed on her from Canton in March, 1792 (Ingraham's MS. journal, March 29, 1792). William Douglas, master in 1788 and 1789 of Meares's snow Iphigenia, was on the coast in 1791 on the Grace, of which he was commander and owner; but he died on her during the voyage from the Hawaiian Islands to China. Perhaps the Indians meant that the vessels Fairy and Grace, which in 1791 were on the coast in command of Rogers and Douglas respectively, were again in the trade in 1792. This was true so far as the Grace was concerned. Thomas Barnett had been connected with the Meares venture in 1788 and 1789 and was on the coast in the Gustavus in 1791. No record, so far as is known, shows him on the coast again in 1792. [return]
9806
9807772 Elias Newbury (Norbery) was on the coast in 1793 as captain of the Boston schooner Jane; but it is not known what vessel he was on in 1792. Treat was furrier on the Columbia in 1787-1790; but he sailed on the Fairy for Boston in March, 1792. [return]
9808
9809773 This indictment could be made and proved, on their own admissions, against a number of the maritime traders. [return]
9810
9811774 The Adventure now leaves Masset and sails westerly in Dixon Entrance for that favorite trading ground, Parry Passage. [return]
9812
9813775 Naden Harbor, capacious and landlocked, on the northern coast of the Queen Charlotte Islands, between Masset and Parry Passage. Haswell had been there on April 23, 1792. [return]
9814
9815776 The maritime traders strove to win the favor of the natives by many devices. Taking away a member of the tribe to see the great outside world was a very common one. Cf. page 323, note 3, above. [return]
9816
9817777 Captain Joseph Ingraham of the Boston brigantine Hope. [return]
9818
9819778 The Florinda of Macao, which Haswell spoke the next day. The reason that the natives did not wish him to speak to this sloop appears later. She may have been the vessel built by some of the mutineers of the Bounty at Tahiti. [return]
9820
9821779 Henslung Cove, at the easterly entrance to Parry Passage. [return]
9822
9823780 The Florinda left Macao, March 25, 1792. Ingraham, in the Hope, left the same place on April 26 and four days later overtook her. This seems to justify Haswell's unique characterization of her. [return]
9824
9825781 Now Sitka Sound, Alaska. [return]
9826
9827782 Forrester Island, near the northern approach to Dixon Entrance. The Adventure now sails northward along the Alaskan coast. [return]
9828
9829783 Port Banks, named in 1787 by George Dixon of the Queen Charlotte after Sir Joseph Banks, is the most important anchorage in Whale Bay, Baranof Island, Alaska. Its latitude is 56°39' North. [return]
9830
9831784 Cape Edgecumbe, named by Captain Cook in 1778, is the northerly point at the entrance of Sitka Sound, Alaska. It lies in latitude 57° North (approximately). [return]
9832
9833785 Mount Edgecumbe is only 2,885 feet in height, but it is remarkable for its appearance -- a flat-topped mountain with sides sloping at a gentle inclination towards the level ground at its base. For a view of Mount Edgecumbe, see Dixon, Voyage round the World, 192. [return]
9834
9835786 The Adventure is now in Sitka Sound, Alaska. This was the most northerly point seen by Haswell on either the first (1787-1790) or the second (1790-1793) voyage of the Columbia. [return]
9836
9837787 Perhaps this was the schooner Grace. Ingraham records in his MS. journal, July 8, 1792, that to the eastward of Rose Spit he met the Grace and that her captain, R. D. Coolidge, informed him of his having learned from the Indians of the presence of large vessels with many guns and men; "and his vessel having no legal papers he intended to cruize chiefly to the northward to avoid them." Again, it may have been the British brig Halcyon, which spent the season in Alaskan waters; or even Captain Moore's vessel, usually called the barque Phoenix, though at this time believed to be rigged as a snow or a brig. [return]
9838
9839788 His latitude agrees exactly with that of Dixon, determined in 1787. [return]
9840
9841789 See Haswell's chart of Port Banks. Here he spent three days. There were no Indian villages in Port Banks. [return]
9842
9843790 The barque Phoenix (though here called a snow), Captain Hugh Moore, from Bengal. Haswell met her again in Parry Passage, August 21, 1792, and later in Nootka Sound, September 21, 1792. She is a mystery ship -- so little is known of her and her movements. See Hubert H. Bancroft, History of Alaska (San Francisco, 1886), 326; Clarence L. Andrews, "Voyage of the East Indiaman Phoenix," Washington Historical Quarterly, XXIII (January, 1932), 37. [return]
9844
9845791 This statement, when coupled with the lists of vessels on the coast in 1792 by Menzies and Vancouver, seems to show that the Indians were wrong or wrongly understood when they stated that Viana was on La Flavie. See above, the entry for July 9, 1792, and the note thereon. The snow was probably Meares's old Felice Adventurer, Viana in command. [return]
9846
9847792 The vessel La Flavie, of which he had heard on July 9. This is the fullest statement to be found anywhere regarding the third French venture on the Northwest Coast. The first was La Pßrouse's expedition sent out by the French government to ascertain the trade possibilities. There were two French trading voyages: Marchand's in 1791, and that of La Flavie in 1792-1793. [return]
9848
9849793 The Grace had sailed after July 8, 1792, for Alaskan waters. See above, page 345, note 2. [return]
9850
9851794 Probably Douglas' Beal Harbor, Ingraham's Douglas Cove (1791), and that now called Henslung Cove. [return]
9852
9853795 The Fenis and St. Joseph, which sailed for China on October 1, 1792, carrying Lieutenant Mudge with Vancouver's dispatches. [return]
9854
9855796 In command of the schooner Grace. [return]
9856
9857797 A full account in manuscript of the Hope's voyage from September, 1790, to November, 1792, is in the Library of Congress. The Jackal was on the Northwest Coast in 1792, 1793, and 1794. She was a schooner or cutter forming part of the so-called Butterworth squadron. She had, says Ingraham, "a tier of ports fore and aft, the greatest part of which was false." [return]
9858
9859798 The Jackal is usually styled a schooner. The Phoenix of Bengal is ordinarily called a barque. In the entry for July 28 she is referred to as a snow. The name "Phinex" probably refers to the brig Fenis and St. Joseph, as it appears from Ingraham that she was a "Feluca of Macao." See above, page 348, note 3. [return]
9860
9861799 Maast Island in Masset Sound. It is marked "Mahsheet" in Haswell's chart of Hancock's River. [return]
9862
9863800 Coming out of Masset Harbor, Haswell attempts to round Rose Spit in order to trade along the easterly side of the Queen Charlotte Islands (always a rich sea-otter trading ground); but the wind being unfavorable, he steers westward towards Parry Passage and the open ocean. [return]
9864
9865801 The Adventure has rounded the northwesterly end of the Queen Charlotte Islands and traced the western coast to beyond 52° 24', where she finds Port Montgomery. [return]
9866
9867802 Gray's reason for trying to effect repairs at Columbia's Cove (Nasparti) and at Clayoquot before going to Nootka Sound is shown by his letter to Joseph Barrell, August 21, 1792, below, pages 479-480. [return]
9868
9869803 Hoskins, in a letter to Barrell dated August 21, 1792 (below, pages 484-485), speaks of Quadra's kindness. [return]
9870
9871804 Haswell had piloted the Columbia into Port Montgomery on the preceding day. [return]
9872
9873805 Haswell was slowly learning that the trade of the Queen Charlotte Islands was on their eastern side, there being few Indian villages on their ocean coast. [return]
9874
9875806 Cape St. James, the southerly extremity of the Queen Charlotte Islands. [return]
9876
9877807 Scott Islands, off Cape Scott, the northwesterly end of Vancouver Island. [return]
9878
9879808 A name used by no other trader. Maquinna Point, the northwesterly point at the entrance of Nootka Sound, is meant. [return]
9880
9881809 The Spanish man-of-war brig Activa, of fourteen guns. [return]
9882
9883810 Friendly Cove is just inside the westerly entrance of Nootka Sound. There the official Spanish town was located. It is today an Indian village. [return]
9884
9885811 Neither Vancouver nor Menzies mentions this visit. Menzies says in his Journal (124): "On the same day which Sr. Quadra sailed the ship Columbia of Boston commanded by Mr. Gray with a small sloop her Consort which was built on the Coast last winter called the Adventure arrived in the Cove where they remained all night and sailed early the following morning with a cargo of furs collected on the coast for China." [return]
9886
9887812 Captain Vancouver, in the summer of 1792, was the first to circumnavigate Vancouver Island. See C. F. Newcombe, The First Circumnavigation of Vancouver Island (Victoria, 1923). [return]
9888
9889813 For a description of the accident and a view of the Discovery on the rocks, see Vancouver, Voyage of Discovery, 11. 299. [return]
9890
9891814 The piece of ground offered was that on which Meares had built the North West America. See ibid., 11. 361ff., and a letter from Captain Vancouver to Evan Nepean, January 7, 1793, in Report, Archives Department of British Columbia (Victoria, 1914), 36ff. See also page 48, note 3, above. [return]
9892
9893815 The British view of the unimportance of the quantity of land may be seen in the following undated and unsigned memorandum (C.O. 5: 187 -- copy in the archives of British Columbia): "All that we really are anxious about . . . is the safety of our national honour, which renders a restitution necessary. The extent of that restitution is not of much moment." [return]
9894
9895816 The Spanish ship is the Aranzazu, just returned from her northern exploration; the Margaret is the ship previously mentioned by Haswell on May 7; the Jackal was one of the vessels in the so-called Butterworth squadron, which was then trading on the coast, and is referred to sometimes as a schooner and at other times as a cutter; the "Phenex of Macao" may be the Phoenix, Hugh Moore master, but is more probably the Fenis and St. Joseph, on which Lieutenant Mudge sailed for China about a week later. [return]
9896
9897817 The Adventure, in company with the Columbia, is sailing for Neeah Bay near Cape Flattery, where the Spaniards had recently established the post of Nuñez Gaona. [return]
9898
9899818 The brig Activa, which had been seen at the entrance of Nootka Sound, is the snow; the sloop is probably the Prince Lee Boo, of the Butterworth squadron. [return]
9900
9901819 Port San Juan. Haswell called it Poverty Cove in his first log. See above, page 72. [return]
9902
9903820 Lieutenant Jacinto Caamaño, the commander of the Aranzazu. [return]
9904
9905821 Cf. Boit's statement, pages 416-417, below. "Don Arrow" is Gonzalez Lopez de Haro. [return]
9906
9907822 Quadra is one of the outstanding men in the story of Spain on the Northwest Coast. Vancouver's tribute to him (Voyage of Discovery, 111. 173) declares that he "was the main spring of a society that had produced us so much happiness, who had rendered us so many essential benefits, and whose benevolence and disinterested conduct had impressed our minds with the highest esteem and veneration." [return]
9908
9909823 The Columbia is at Poverty Cove (Port San Juan) preparing for her voyage to China. It will be observed that those preparations occupy about four days. [return]
9910
9911824 Her route to China will be by way of the Hawaiian Islands. The maritime fur-traders almost invariably followed that course. Those islands could supply them with all their requirements in the way of food and ship's stores. They were also even at this early date a sort of clearing house for sailors. [return]
9912
9913825 The island of Hawaii. [return]
9914
9915826 The entries for October 4-29 are omitted because, with one exception, they contain only sailing directions. The entry for October 27 reads: "At 4 saw a brig to the westward. It is the Phenix, Duffin, from Nootka Sound to Macao. I saw on board of her Lieut. Mudge, Capt. Vancouver's chief officer." The Fenis and St. Joseph had sailed from Nootka Sound on September 30; the Columbia had sailed from Port San Juan on October 3. It is difficult to distinguish this vessel from the barque Phoenix of Bengal, for the traders are never particular as to the spelling, nor sometimes as to the rig. [return]
9916
9917827 From the earliest days of the maritime trade the Hawaiian Islands supplied the ships with not only wood and water but also rope and salt, fowls, geese, hogs, potatoes, yams, plantains, taro, sugar cane, coconuts, and fish. [return]
9918
9919828 Haswell had been on board her on the twenty-seventh, as appears from his entry for that day (quoted in note 1, above). She had taken twenty-nine days; the Columbia had taken twenty-six days; but the passage was usually made in about three weeks. [return]
9920
9921829 Kawaihae Bay, on the northwestern side of Hawaii -- a favorite trading place. [return]
9922
9923830 Oahu, the island on which Honolulu is situated. [return]
9924
9925831 Captain Douglas of the Iphigenia is credited with having left the seeds of the watermelon. The seeds of the muskmelon are said by some to have been left by Captain Cook and by others to have been left by Captain Portlock. [return]
9926
9927832 Onehow is now Niihau, one of the westerly or leeward islands of the Hawaiian group. From it large supplies of yams were obtained by the maritime traders. [return]
9928
9929833 Now the island of Kahoolawe, lying to the southwestward of Maui, one of the Hawaiian group. [return]
9930
9931834 Waikiki Bay, the famous bathing beach of Honolulu. Rani is the island Lanai. [return]
9932
9933835 Then called Atooi, but now the island of Kauai, "the garden island" of the Hawaiian group. [return]
9934
9935836 The entries for November 3 -- December 3 have been omitted. During those days Haswell made but one entry that does not relate to sailing directions: "December 3d.. . . At 9 AM saw one of the Bashees bearing WNW 10 leagues distance and soon saw a number more. At noon Grafton Island bore SSW 4 leagues distance. Grafton Isle Lat. 20°20' N.Long. 121°40' E.Lat. obs. 20°27' N." [return]
9936
9937837 The Bashee Islands lie between Formosa and the Philippines. The course taken by the Columbia between Monmouth and Grafton Islands was that taken by Dampier in August, 1687. "Orringe" is Orange Island. See a map of the islands in Burney, Chronological History, IV. 252, where will also be found Dampier's description of them. [return]
9938
9939838 The log continues through December 7 with entries that are merely sailing directions and weather comments, except for this statement under date December 7: "At ½ past 5 PM we agreed with a pilot to carry the ship to Macao roads for 25 Doll[ar]s." [return]
9940
9941839 Such of Boit's entries as contain only nautical data or weather observations have been omitted. The full text of Boit's log will be found in Proceedings, LIII. 218-275, and in Oregon Historical Quarterly, XXII (December, 1921), 265-349. [return]
9942
9943840 Sebald de Weert, who circumnavigated the globe in 1598-1599 in the ship het Geloof, the sole surviving vessel of the fleet of five commanded by Jacques Mahu and Simon de Cordes. [return]
9944
9945841 Named after Jacob Le Maire, who circumnavigated the world in 1615-1617. [return]
9946
9947842 I. de los Estados. [return]
9948
9949843 These are well-known landmarks today. They are on Meares Island; the highest is called Lone Peak. [return]
9950
9951844 Haswell calls this plant a leek. [return]
9952
9953845 Exactly the reverse conditions prevailed in the Queen Charlotte Islands, as Ingraham and Haswell and Boit himself later on relate. [return]
9954
9955846 For a complete description of these cedar bark garments, see Cook, Voyage to the Pacific Ocean, II. 304. In the folio atlas accompanying this edition of Cook's Voyage will be found a picture showing these garments and also the hats. [return]
9956
9957847 This was a recognized antiscorbutic. This decoction must have been very nasty; it was originally prepared, "brewed," some of the voyagers call it, from the trees themselves. For references to it, see Meares, Voyages, Introduction, 4 to. ed., XX; Cook, Voyage to the Pacific Ocean, II. 273; III. 331; Dixon, Voyage round the World, 151; Portlock, Voyage round the World, 215, 217, 231, etc., and many other authorities. [return]
9958
9959848 For a description of these boxes, see Cook, Voyage to the Pacific Ocean, II. 316. A picture of one will be seen in the view of the interior of a house at Nootka Sound, contained in the accompanying atlas. [return]
9960
9961849 Portlock, in his Voyage round the World (271), heard of great ravages of this disease amongst the Tlingit and believed that it was introduced by the Spaniards in 1775 and worked its way down the coast. [return]
9962
9963850 Cf. Haswell's first journal under date March 31, 1789. [return]
9964
9965851 Haswell calls him Coya; Hoskins calls him Coyah. The latter says that Coyah, whom Gray had met in 1789, did not come near the ship until a little after sunset, when most of the natives had left; that he told them Captain Barnard (Barnett) had got all their skins; and that he asked Gray to wait a few days for a fresh supply. [return]
9966
9967852 The cedar -- the blessed tree of the Northwest Coast. [return]
9968
9969853 This is another reference to the labret, which is also spoken of by Haswell and Hoskins. [return]
9970
9971854 In terms of modern geography the Columbia now leaves Houston Stewart Channel, sails west into the Pacific Ocean, rounds Cape St. James, the southern point of the Queen Charlotte Islands, proceeds up Hecate Strait, which lies between these islands and the mainland of British Columbia, keeping generally to the mainland side, and, turning to the westward, follows along the northern shores of Dixon Entrance, the strait separating the Queen Charlotte Islands from Alaska. [return]
9972
9973855 Robert Haswell, the chief officer of the ship. [return]
9974
9975856 The observations of the American officers in regard to language are always correct. The natives of the Queen Charlotte Islands are of the Haida tribe; while on the mainland opposite they are Tsimshian. [return]
9976
9977857 So far as can be discovered there were but two English vessels in this vicinity in 1791: the Grace, Captain William Douglas, and the Gustavus, Captain Thomas Barnett. [return]
9978
9979858 The recognized form of the name is Cumshewa. [return]
9980
9981859 Hecate Strait in this locality is about forty miles wide; the land to the northward would be, perhaps, seventy miles distant, being that lying between Prince of Wales Island and the mainland in southern Alaska. [return]
9982
9983860 The Columbia, driven by gale and current, and in the fog, had entered Clarence Strait. [return]
9984
9985861 Hoskins, however, mentions two: Sushin and Cahta. Some inhabitants of the former were actually on board. The ship was striving to reach Sushin when she anchored near Massacre Cove. The villages were of the Kaigahnee Haida. Boit may be referring to villages of the Tlingit. If so, the nearest, according to Vancouver, who was there in August, 1793, was at Point Whaley, about fifty miles distant. [return]
9986
9987862 Hoskins calls this "rivulet" Salmon River. See above, page 218 and note. [return]
9988
9989863 Until Vancouver circumnavigated Revillagigedo Island in August, 1793, it was thought to be a part of the mainland. [return]
9990
9991864 Mr. Waters, as appears by the entry of March 24, 1792 (see below, page 390). [return]
9992
9993865 After obtaining the body of Mr. Caswell, the Columbia returns to the western end of Revillagigedo Channel, sails thence to the north shore of the Queen Charlotte Islands, and enters Masset Harbor. [return]
9994
9995866 This latitude and longitude have no relation to either Port Tempest or Massacre Cove. They are given by Haswell as the position of Murderers' Cape, which lay at the western entrance of Brown's Sound, in which Port Tempest was situated. That is Cape Chacon of today. Its latitude is the well-known 54°40'. [return]
9996
9997867 The Hancock had obtained between five hundred and six hundred sea-otter skins; the Columbia had about as many. See Washington Historical Quarterly, XI. 17. Haswell says she had seven hundred sea-otter skins. [return]
9998
9999868 The frame of the longboat had been brought out in the brig from Boston and put together somewhere on the coast of the Queen Charlotte Islands. It had been rigged as a sloop and placed in charge of Mr. Adamson, formerly in Meares's employ on the Iphigenia. [return]
10000
10001869 The greater probability is that, as in the cases of Quadra, Barkley, and the Atahualpa, it arose from mere cupidity. The implements, clothing, and nails in the boat were sufficient temptation. [return]
10002
10003870 Before doing so, Captain Crowell left with the natives at Tadents in Parry Passage (Cox Strait) a man named Jones, who was to collect furs against his return; but he soon tired of the life there, went to Kaigahnee, and shipped away at the first opportunity. This expedient was frequently tried by the traders; the result was always the same. [return]
10004
10005871 The reason for the Columbia's sudden departure was, according to Hoskins, to forestall the Hancock in the trade on the eastern side of the Queen Charlotte Islands. [return]
10006
10007872 Ingraham, in the Hope, had been lying at anchor, trading continuously with these natives, for over a fortnight. [return]
10008
10009873 This officer died shortly afterwards while the Hope was en route to the Sandwich Islands. Ingraham gives his name as Crafts. Ingraham was returning good for evil. The owners of the Columbia, he tells us, being "filled with envy and malice against all who went to share with them this valuable trade, gave orders that no Letters should be borne out in their ship to any one on board the Hope." Thus, though Ingraham got his letters through the instrumentality of Haswell, who smuggled them through, poor Cruft's letters were refused and came out on the Hancock, with the result that he never received them, having died before the two vessels met at the Sandwich Islands. [return]
10010
10011874 Ingraham gives the outlines of the story in his MS. journal, but Hoskins enters into all the details. See above, pages 240-241. [return]
10012
10013875 Boit is in error here. Kendrick, in the Washington, did not see the Northwest Coast from his departure in the fall of 1789 until June 13, 1791. [return]
10014
10015876 Hoskins, writing to Joseph Barrell from Nootka Sound, August 21, 1792, says: "Capt. Kendrick when I saw him the last season [referring to this occasion] offer'd to give up to me, (if I would pay his mens wages and a debt he had contracted in Macao of about 4000 dollars;) his vessel and cargo which was a thousand Sea Otter skins; I told him I had no authority to accept his offer, or to demand any payment from him; nor did I think any person in the Ship had." [return]
10016
10017877 This is an exaggeration. Both Hoskins' narrative and Haswell's journal show that the two ships were on the best of terms, mutual visits were exchanged, and the fullest confidence prevailed. [return]
10018
10019878 Elisa was in the Strait of Juan de Fuca in 1791 with the Spanish vessels San Carlos and Santa Saturnina. In the same year two other Spanish ships, probably the Concepcion and the Princesa, were also in that strait. See Navarrete, Viajes y Descubrimientos Apocrifos, 113-121, and Wagner, Spanish Explorations in Juan de Fuca's Strait, 141ff. [return]
10020
10021879 Both Haswell and Hoskins give this awful experience in somewhat greater detail and unite in blaming Captain Gray for his stubbornness in refusing to seek an offing. [return]
10022
10023880 Port Cox. The latitude given is correct; the longitude here should be 125° 58'. [return]
10024
10025881 This is an exaggeration. Hoskins is more nearly correct when he says eight miles from the anchoring place (Port Cox) and fifteen miles from the sea. [return]
10026
10027882 Kendrick had called his house Fort Washington; Gray named his Fort Defiance. [return]
10028
10029883 See Haswell's entry for this date for a totally different version. [return]
10030
10031884 Haswell calls this village Oakaminah. Hoskins calls it Okerminna. [return]
10032
10033885 This is a strange error. The Hancock was then at the Hawaiian Islands on her way to China. On October 6 Ingraham records that on his anchoring at Hawaii he met the Hancock, then lately arrived from the Northwest Coast, and spent some days in her company. She sailed at about that time for China and was there during that winter. [return]
10034
10035886 The identity of these ships is uncertain. Malaspina, in the Descubierta and the Atrevida, had been there but had sailed about the end of August. The San Carlos and the Concepcion were still at Nootka, but the Santa Saturnina was en route to Mexico. [return]
10036
10037887 See Hoskins' entry for October 16, 1791. [return]
10038
10039888 This was Yethlan, the youngest brother of Wickananish. Hoskins also gives an account of this episode under date December 22, 1791. [return]
10040
10041889 This entertainment took place at Opitsat, the regular dwelling place of the tribe on Meares Island. Hoskins, under date December 31, 1791, goes much more fully into the details. [return]
10042
10043890 Haswell gives the distance between Opitsat and Adventure Cove as three miles. [return]
10044
10045891 Hoskins also mentions such boxes. It is possible that they may have been manufactured from the sheets of copper purchased from the traders. It is certain that they were not manufactured from the native copper. [return]
10046
10047892 Hoskins accompanied Boit on this visit and enters much more fully into the description of this entertainment. [return]
10048
10049893 Hoskins nevertheless records that in the preceding October a hunting party had had some difficulty with the natives, who had behaved in a very rude manner, striving to take their fire-arms from them and seeking to capture Captain Gray. Though Boit was of the party, he makes no allusion to the occurrence. It was thought that this action was instigated by Tootiscoosettle in revenge for his treatment already mentioned. [return]
10050
10051894 Hoskins opposed this move, as it had the effect of separating the crew and left the ship and the fort out of sight of each other. [return]
10052
10053895 Both Haswell and Hoskins tell the same story, in the main; though their accounts are more circumstantial and more thrilling. [return]
10054
10055896 Boit makes the date of this launching March 22; but Hoskins and Haswell both say February 23. [return]
10056
10057897 This took, according to Haswell and Hoskins, about a month, and not two days, as Boit has it. [return]
10058
10059898 The natives had suddenly removed to Echachis on Wakennenish Island. This village is shown on Meares's map already mentioned (Meares, Voyages, 202). So precipitate had been their flight that they had left many of their domestic utensils scattered about their houses and hidden in the bushes. [return]
10060
10061899 Neither Haswell nor Hoskins mentions the destruction of this village Opitsat; but there is no reason to doubt the fact. Gray had made a threat to give the natives powder and shot when he reached the village. His conduct after the attempt to take the ship was that of an angry man. Hoskins records many instances of his exhibitions of passion and complains bitterly of this conduct, which was only ruining the chances of trade with these people, who were great hunters. [return]
10062
10063900 The Columbia is cruising southward along the coast of the state of Washington, and yet this observation was taken off Cape Lookout. [return]
10064
10065901 This observation was taken a little north of Cape Foulweather on the coast of Oregon. [return]
10066
10067902 The Columbia is now off the mouth of the Alsea River and Bayview, Oregon. [return]
10068
10069903 The Columbia is off the mouth of the Umpqua River in Oregon. There were, of course, neither buffalo nor cannibals there. [return]
10070
10071904 Nearly as far south as Cape Blanco, on the Oregon coast. [return]
10072
10073905 The Columbia is returning northward. There is no inlet charted opposite this location. If the legendary claim that Captain Gray landed on the coast of Oregon be true, this journal does not reveal the fact. [return]
10074
10075906 The Columbia is now off Willapa Harbor on the Washington coast, and there is no mention at all of the mouth of the Columbia River in passing. The longitude cited must be disregarded as too far east, an error common to the observations noted in this journal. [return]
10076
10077907 This village was close to a point now charted as Teakwhit Head, some miles southeast of the mouth of the Quillayute River on the coast of Washington. A small stream emptying there had some years ago, according to O. B. Sperlin of Tacoma, the Indian name Kenehenwhitt. Possibly this is identical with the "Queenhythe" mentioned by Barkley in 1787 and by Meares in 1788. [return]
10078
10079908 Cf. Vancouver, Voyage of Discovery, 1. 213, where it is stated that on April 28 Captain Vancouver anchored off Destruction Island but made sail at 3 A.M. on the morning of Sunday, April 29, and at 4 A.M. sighted the Columbia and had his officers on board of her at 7 A.M. This would have been about off the mouth of the Quillayute River. "A New Vancouver Journal" (Washington Historical Quarterly, V. 133) puts the date as April 30. [return]
10080
10081909 The Columbia followed the ships of Captain Vancouver as far as the entrance to the Strait of Juan de Fuca but then returned to the southward for trade and discovery. [return]
10082
10083910 Our Indian name, Quillayute. The village is La Push, at the mouth of the river of that name. [return]
10084
10085911 Captain Gray, in his log, makes no mention of this attack. He had similar experiences on the coast of Vancouver Island and farther north. The circumstances suggest the presence of a war party from the south. The natives there would have been of the Chehalis or Chickales tribe of the Chinookan family. Cf. Vancouver, Voyage of Discovery, 11. 79-92, where is related the visit to this harbor of Lieutenant Joseph Whidbey in the Daedalus, who remained there October 19 -- November 10, 1792, and encountered very few Indians and those very peaceable. Whidbey bestowed the names Point Brown and Point New, which still remain. Captain Gray left no nomenclature here. [return]
10086
10087912 Boit uses the expression "down river" here and later when referring to Indians coming to trade from upper parts of the Chehalis and Columbia rivers. [return]
10088
10089913 The Columbia was a ship of only 212 tons, as certified by the collector of the port of Boston, and drew six to eight feet of water, which was the extreme draft of vessels entering Gray's Harbor before any dredging was done on the bar. The fact that Captain Gray left this harbor at evening and sailed directly southward all night, and the next morning "at 4 A.M. saw the entrance of our desired port bearing east-southeast, distance six leagues," suggests that he had obtained from the Indians of Gray's Harbor some definite information as to the existence of a large river at Cape Disappointment. Boit mentions later on that he recognized some of these same Indians around the ship in the Columbia River, but this is doubtful. [return]
10090
10091914 Cf. with log of the Columbia, which is printed below. For contemporaneous mention of this discovery, consult "Log of H.M.S. Chatham," Oregon Historical Quarterly, XVIII. 231ff.; Vancouver, Voyage of Discovery, I and II; Ingraham's MS. journal of the Hope, Library of Congress. [return]
10092
10093915 This was the Columbia River (or Columbia's River, as named by Captain Gray), the existence of which had been the very positive belief of geographers, navigators, and explorers for nearly two hundred years. Its mouth had been associated with the fabled Straits of Anian, and the voyage of the Spanish navigator, Martin de Aguilar (1602). Its westward flow and watershed had been reported by Charlevoix and the French explorers in the Mississippi Valley and beyond during the first half of the eighteenth century under the broad designation River of the West. Its upper courses had been strangely confused with those of the upper Missouri by Major Robert Rogers in 1765, who then applied the name Ouragon. Its theoretical source had been blatantly placed in northern Minnesota by Jonathan Carver in 1778, who called it the Oregon; and its true source was not discovered until 1807 by David Thompson. In 1775 the Spanish navigator, Bruno Heceta, sailed up to its mouth, made an astronomical observation, and bestowed names upon the river, the bay, and the two capes, but these names did not become permanent. Thirteen years later Captain John Meares, after similar examination, declared that no such river existed, and left the name Cape Disappointment to commemorate his warped or ignorant opinion. In April, 1792, Captain George Vancouver examined the opening at longer range, recognized Cape Disappointment, and confirmed the opinion of Captain Meares. Now Captain Robert Gray confirms the discovery by Heceta and actually sails into the river long looked for. [return]
10094
10095916 This can be explained by the fact that the river was then in flood with the spring freshets. In October of the same year Lieutenant Broughton of the Chatham did not find this condition of fresh water, and did not find as much depth of water on the sand bars further upstream. This accounts considerably for the criticism by Broughton and Vancouver of the chart or sketch of the river given by Captain Gray to Captain Vancouver when at Nootka. That chart has never been found. [return]
10096
10097917 This anchorage was a little southeast of the railroad station now known as McGowans and a little southwest of Point Ellice on the north bank of the river. [return]
10098
10099918 This amplification discloses that the writing of Boit's journal was not diurnal. This entry was made at some later date, presumably on May 20, when the ship left the river. This fact probably explains the unimportant divergence of one day between the dates given by Captain Gray and Boit. [return]
10100
10101919 Captain Gray found that the deep water or ship's channel of the river then, as now, crossed the river from Harrington Point to Tongue Point and followed the south bend to Point Adams, but then crossed again into Baker's Bay behind Cape Disappointment. Sand Island was then attached to Point Adams and lay directly in what is now the deep water channel off that point. See Oregon Historical Quarterly, XVIII. 242-243. [return]
10102
10103920 The latitude cited is practically correct, but the longitude is a full degree too far east. This anchorage was somewhere near Point Gray, which is the location of the speculative town site of Frankfort, now shown on commercial maps of the north bank of the river. According to the table of distances by the government engineers, this point is seventeen and a half miles from the sea. Boit does not record all the movements of the ship on May 14, 15, and 16, and for this see the log of the Columbia, pages 435-438, below. [return]
10104
10105921 The words "and take possession" were inserted at a later time and are in a quite different ink. [return]
10106
10107922 The interpolated words suggest a ceremony which is not yet known to have actually taken place, and one which would have been of great value to the United States officials during the boundary disputes prior to the treaty of 1846. During the first session of the Thirty-second Congress a bill was introduced for the relief of Martha Gray, widow of Captain Robert Gray, and of the heirs of Captain John Kendrick (S.B. Bill Number 526), and in that connection, on August 11, 1852, a report was filed which contained unsupported statements as to such an act of taking possession. In Early Days in Old Oregon (McClurg, 1916), there appears the positive statement of the author that such an act was performed, but no references are given to support it. [return]
10108
10109923 Evidently a predecessor of Comcomly, the one-eyed potentate of the Chinook Indians during so many years of the fur-trade period, whose daughters were given in marriage to some of the traders. [return]
10110
10111924 This name is still officially recognized, but the name given to the northern cape did not become permanent. Captain Heceta named the southern point Cabo Frondoso because of the trees and brush which then grew down to the edge of the beach. Astoria, on the southern bank fifteen miles inland, was the first trading post on the lower river, and Fort Vancouver, one hundred miles inland and on the north bank, became the first factory, meaning thereby the residence and headquarters of the chief factors, who managed the business of the district. [return]
10112
10113925 Now the two accounts, Captain Gray's and Boit's, synchronize. The dates given by Captain Gray are official and take precedence, and it is still correct to say that the Columbia River was first entered by white men on May 11, 1792. A similar divergence of one day appears in the narrative of Captain Vancouver the following October. [return]
10114
10115926 It is difficult to identify this cove. If the latitude could be relied on, it should be in Quatsino Sound; but no such cove exists there near the ocean, as this cove manifestly was. The reference to the fine inlet and the complete snug cove would fit San Josef Bay and Sea Otter Cove, which lies just west of it. Meares gives (Voyages, 326) a representation of Sea Otter Cove, and fixes its latitude as 50° 41'. Unfortunately, however, Boit says they anchored in fifteen fathoms, and Sea Otter Cove has only five fathoms at its entrance and one to three fathoms inside. [return]
10116
10117927 Captain Cook says (Voyage to the Pacific Ocean, II. 308) this "armour" appeared to be skin of elk tanned; it covered them from the breast almost to the heels. It was not only sufficiently strong to resist arrows, but even spears could not pierce it. Hoskins speaks of "moose hide buff leathered which is one of their war garments." Fraser records in his journal under date July 1, 1808: "The Chief made me a present of a coat of mail to make shoes." [return]
10118
10119928 Captain Hanna had named St. Patrick's Bay in this vicinity. It is San Josef Bay on the maps of today. In it Hanna gives fifteen fathoms, but it is not a snug cove, being three miles in length and two miles in breadth at its entrance and open to all winds except from the north. There is no contemporary account to assist us here, for Hoskins's narrative ends with the departure from Clayoquot, and Haswell was at this time on the Adventure. [return]
10120
10121929 On June 3, 1792, some of these Indians arrived at Nootka asking from Quadra assistance against a vessel which, said they, had attacked their village, killing seven, wounding others, and despoiling the rest of their sea-otter skins. They brought with them a wounded Indian to be treated by the Spanish doctor. The natives claimed that the Americans, being unable to agree upon the price of the furs, had used force to compel them to surrender their peltries. The account in the Viaje (24) proceeds as follows: "Segun se pado comprehender el buque era la Fragata Americana la Columbia, su Capitan Gray, a quien indicaban los Indios con la senal de que era tuerto; circumstancia que sabiamos recaia en dicho Capitan." In connection with the Indian account, Boit's entry for May 25 may be consulted; it will be observed that Boit believed "they was fearful we shou'd rob their village." [return]
10122
10123930 At its entrance Queen Charlotte Sound is twenty miles wide, though in its extent its average width is from ten to fifteen miles. It is very deep. There are only two places, Beaver Harbor and Port Alexander, where a vessel of any size can find good anchorage. The sound is only fifty miles long; the distances given in this part are much exaggerated. [return]
10124
10125931 This may be Beaver Harbor, though it is strange that he does not mention the islands that protect it. From this vicinity there is an Indian trail some eight miles in length which leads to Quatsino Sound, which may have been mistaken for a trail to Nootka Sound. As the crow flies, the distance to Nootka Sound is about eighty miles. The mountain referred to is, likely, Mount Karmutzen; but this is not visible from Nootka. [return]
10126
10127932 This idea is not original with Boit. It was in the air at that time. In Meares's Voyages, prefixed to his account of his voyages in 1788 and 1789, is a map in which is shown the celebrated, and now proved to have been imaginary, track of the Washington, entering at the Strait of Juan de Fuca and emerging at the Queen Charlotte Islands. [return]
10128
10129933 Queen Charlotte Sound was discovered in 1786 by the Experiment, under the command of Wedgborough (Vancouver, Voyage of Discovery, II. 308), though there may be doubt as to the exact person then actually in command. James Hanna, in the snow Sea Otter, was also in this sound in the summer of 1786. Duncan, in August, 1788, spent some time at its western entrance. Funter, in the North West America, was there in 1789; see his map of Raft Cove in Meares's Voyages (326), which appears to be the present Goletas Channel and Shushartie Bay. [return]
10130
10131934 This is an exaggeration: the sound is only fifty miles long. Boit's statement that the shore at the end of their examination trended ESE would indicate that they were following the Vancouver Island shore and at this point were looking down Johnstone Strait. [return]
10132
10133935 The Adventure, under Haswell, met this ship at Barrell's Sound (Houston Stewart Channel) on May 7. [return]
10134
10135936 This entry shows that Columbia's Cove was very close to Woody Point (Cape Cook). In rounding that point, owing to the rocks which extend from it, the ship would probably give it a berth of at least two miles; and within two hours she is at anchor. [return]
10136
10137937 Hoskins, writing to Barrell on September 28, 1792, makes a different statement. He says "she sails very dull"; but Haswell states twice in his second journal that she outsailed the Columbia. [return]
10138
10139938 Vancouver (Voyage of Discovery, IV. 287) says that Captain Gray, in the Columbia, struck and received some material damage upon a sunken rock, which he represented as lying much farther than a league from Cape St. James in an almost southeast direction. But the latitude and longitude given by both Haswell and Boit place it very much farther east. Haswell, indeed, says it was abreast of the south entrance of Loblip Sound, which may be Milbanke Sound or Laredo Sound. [return]
10140
10141939 For Haswell's version, see his entries for June 29 and August 21, 1792. See also Hoskins' letter to Barrell, August 21, 1792, below. [return]
10142
10143940 The Margaret was owned by the same people as the Hope. Ingraham met her about a month later near Nootka Sound when Mr. Lamb, the chief officer, came aboard to report to him that Captain Magee was very ill. Later Ingraham states that Captain Magee was so ill that it was agreed that he should return to China in the Hope as a passenger. [return]
10144
10145941 Hoskins' letter to Barrell, August 21, 1792, shows that the owners' orders very positively forbade the ship's entering a Spanish port except in case of distress. [return]
10146
10147942 Ingraham states that this vessel carried a Mr. Howel, who was charged with the duty of writing an account of the voyage. So far as is known, this record is not extant at the present time. [return]
10148
10149943 A brig of one hundred and ten tons commanded by a Captain Shepherd. Finding the price of furs too high on the seacoast, she sailed from Nootka to try the trade in Queen Charlotte Sound, and, much to Vancouver's surprise, was met by him near Calvert Island on August 17, 1792. Vancouver, Voyage of Discovery, II. 319-320. [return]
10150
10151944 The atrocities were not always on the Indians' side. Ingraham gives much the same account; he says the Spaniards killed eight of the natives on this occasion. See "New Vancouver Journal," Washington Historical Quarterly, VI. 57. [return]
10152
10153945 For Nootka, as appears later. [return]
10154
10155946 The Daedalus of Vancouver's squadron, commanded by Captain New, whom Ingraham describes as "a very clever old gentleman." [return]
10156
10157947 This fort was on Hog Island, but it was not the one which had been erected by Martinez in 1789. That fort had been dismantled when the settlement returned to Mexico in the fall of 1789. This was a new one erected on the same site by Elisa in 1790. It is described in the entry of the following day as a poor affair, barely sufficient to carry the weight of the guns. [return]
10158
10159948 This seems exaggerated. Ingraham's statement, "the village consists of 16 houses," corresponds reasonably closely with the pictures still extant. Furthermore, it agrees fairly well with the diagram of that most interesting village which is appended to Elisa's map of the Strait of Juan de Fuca. A copy of this map will be found numbered "K" in the Berlin Arbitration Papers (Washington, 1872). [return]
10160
10161949 This is the only reference to the presence of botanists in this unique settlement. Much research is still necessary before any adequate conception of the Spanish village at Nootka Sound can be obtained, or any knowledge gathered of the incidents in its short existence (1790-1795). In the "New Vancouver Journal" (Washington Historical Quarterly, v. 306), it is noted that the Aranzazu, on her return to Nootka in September, 1792, "had a Botanist on board her." [return]
10162
10163950 Don Francisco de la Bodega y Quadra, one of the most interesting figures in the Spanish rßgime on this coast. His entrance into our history is gripping. No reader can forget his courageous voyage in the little Sonora in 1775. He was a fit representative of the courtly Spaniard; and while he was commandant at Nootka all visitors, of every nationality and of every kind of vessel, united in bearing testimony to his constant courtesy and unfailing kindness. [return]
10164
10165951 Ingraham records that when he dined with Governor Quadra a few days later, he had an excellent dinner, and everything was served on silver. He adds that it was Quadra's custom to invite to dinner all commanders of vessels, regardless of rank or nationality. Even when Vancouver and Quadra visited Maquinna at Tasis, the Spaniard took care to have the dinner served on plate. Vancouver, Voyage of Discovery, II. 354; Washington Historical Quarterly, v. 304. [return]
10166
10167952 Of necessity this must be the Activa, for the Aranzazu, under Caamaño, was then engaged on the survey of the Queen Charlotte Islands and vicinity, while the Princesa lay at anchor guarding Fidalgo and his men at Neeah Bay. [return]
10168
10169953 The Hope left Macao on April 1, 1792, and arrived at Cox Strait (Parry Passage), Queen Charlotte Islands, on July 2. She had spent the interval in cruising and trading around those islands. [return]
10170
10171954 The ship Butterworth had been a French frigate of thirty guns. Under Captain William Brown she was on the coast in 1792-1793 as the "mother ship," having as tenders the Prince Lee Boo and the Jackal. At Clayoquot, a few days before this arrival at Nootka, she had an encounter with the natives, in which one seaman was killed and two severely wounded. Captain Brown represented it as an unprovoked attack upon his boats. Ingraham, however, learned from the Margaret a totally different version in which the seamen were said to have robbed and attempted to rob the Indians of their furs, and in the resultant struggle and retaliation the losses occurred. Washington Historical Quarterly, XI. 26. This expedition was quite unsuccessful in obtaining furs during the season of 1792. Ibid., VI. 58. At the end of the following season the Butterworth was dispatched to England with instructions to engage in whaling and sealing in the South Seas and at Staten Land, where her commander had formed a temporary establishment. Vancouver, Voyage of Discovery, V. 354. [return]
10172
10173955 The small sloop Prince Lee Boo, named after a young chief who had been taken to England by Captain Wilson. This vessel was on the coast in 1792, 1793, and 1794 as one of the vessels of the Butterworth squadron. At the end of the season of 1793, she, in company with the Jackal, sailed to China, returning again in June, 1794. Ibid., 354-355. [return]
10174
10175956 According to the "New Vancouver Journal" (Washington Historical Quarterly, v. 224), Captain Magee was utilizing his sick leave in selling intoxicating liquor. [return]
10176
10177957 The full name was Three Brothers, though the Viaje refers to her as "El Bergantin Ingles Tresbes." This vessel was one of the few British ships that utterly ignored the monopoly of the South Sea Company. Soon after her arrival, following Meares's and the Americans' custom, she set up the frame of a small sloop at Nootka. For further information, see Washington Historical Quarterly, v. 301; VI. 59, 85. [return]
10178
10179958 Conuma Peak, a remarkable steeple-shaped mountain, 4,889 feet high, twenty miles from the entrance. It is a most conspicuous feature. [return]
10180
10181959 Escalante Point, low and rocky, marks the eastern entrance of Nootka Sound. The name is by association with Escalante Reef. It signifies in Spanish "climbing" or "scaling." [return]
10182
10183960 All navigators, from the time of Juan Perez in 1774, complain of the thick fogs of the Queen Charlotte Islands. [return]
10184
10185961 Cf. Haswell's entry, September 12, 1792. [return]
10186
10187962 Quadra was returning, not to Peru, but to San Blas in Mexico. [return]
10188
10189963 Vancouver's vessels, which had arrived in Friendly Cove, Nootka Sound, August 28, 1792, after circumnavigating Vancouver Island. [return]
10190
10191964 This ship had just reached Nootka, arriving on September 19, 1792. Washington Historical Quarterly, VI. 54. [return]
10192
10193965 The Fenis and St. Joseph. Vancouver says (Voyage of Discovery, II. 367) she was a Portuguese brig, commanded by John de Barros Andrede, with Mr. Duffin as supercargo. See also Washington Historical Quarterly, VI. 50, to same effect. Perhaps Duffin, who had been with Meares in the Felice, may have taken his cue from his former employer. Duffin on this occasion gave Vancouver a written account of the seizures of 1789. The gist of the letter will be found in Vancouver, Voyage of Discovery, II. 370ff.; the complete text is in Washington Historical Quarterly, VI. 52ff. She had arrived on September 15, 1792. [return]
10194
10195966 The Jackal of the Butterworth squadron. Vancouver calls her a schooner, but all others speak of her as a sloop. Ingraham had met her near the southern end of the Queen Charlotte Islands on July 17, 1792, and had at first thought her to be the Adventure. But she showed British colors, and on her nearer approach he saw that she had a tier of ports fore and aft, the greatest part of which were "false or only painted, yet they made a good appearance at a distance that for some time we concluded she was a Kings Cutter or tender to some of the men of war on the coast." [return]
10196
10197967 Neeah Bay. [return]
10198
10199968 Ingraham had a contrary opinion. In his journal, under date September 28, 1792, he writes: "It is 5 points of the compass open to the sea from WNW to N b W so that it is almost as bad as being in the centre of the straights and I much wonder how the Princessa road out 7 months in safety in such a place especially as the bottom is very rocky in forming a new settlement I should suppose a good Harbour was the first and most materiall thing to be sought for." [return]
10200
10201969 Ingraham describes it thus: "The settlement consisted only of a few Huts and a tollerable good garden." [return]
10202
10203970 Ingraham states that when he and Hoskins visited Quadra, the latter was much vexed that the Americans had not sent their boats to his assistance on the preceding evening. Satisfactory explanations were made, however, and, with the assistance of the Americans, the Activa was towed into safe anchorage. He expresses in his journal great sorrow that anything having even the semblance of inattention or neglect to one who had been so kind to them should have happened. [return]
10204
10205971 The Spaniards were now, on instructions from Quadra, abandoning Nuñez Gaona, as they called the settlement at Neeah Bay. It had only been established in the preceding March. Fidalgo, who was its commandant, was sailing to Nootka to take over the command at that place, superseding Caamaño, who had been left in charge. [return]
10206
10207972 The ostensible commander was a Portuguese, John de Barros Andrede, Duffin being but supercargo. Further investigation may show that, like Meares's vessels, she was merely masquerading under the Portuguese flag. The passenger referred to was Lieutenant Mudge of the Discovery, who was carrying to England an account of the abortive negotiations between Vancouver and Quadra. See Vancouver, Voyage of Discovery, II. 377-378, and page 357, note 1. [return]
10208
10209973 Kawaihae Bay. [return]
10210
10211974 Niihau. [return]
10212
10213975 Kahoolawe. [return]
10214
10215976 Lanai. [return]
10216
10217977 Maui. [return]
10218
10219978 Oahu. [return]
10220
10221979 Boit changed his opinion some three years later; see the entries from the log of the Union in Samuel E. Morison, "Boston Traders in Hawaiian Islands," Washington Historical Quarterly, XII. 168-169. [return]
10222
10223980 See its details in Cook, Voyage to the Pacific Ocean, II. 135. [return]
10224
10225981 Pedra Blanca. [return]
10226
10227982 The Columbia is following the usual route from the Sandwich (Hawaiian) Islands to China. Meares says (Voyages, 57): "The land generally made on the coast of China is about Pedro Blanco or White Rock." [return]
10228
10229983 Lark's Bay -- sometimes called Dirty Butter Bay -- a small harbor lying three or four leagues southwest of Macao, the Portuguese settlement near the mouth of the Canton River. The object of lying there was to save the payment of duty on the cargo, as the bay was out of the reach of Chinese authority at that time. See Delano, Narrative of Voyages, 43. [return]
10230
10231984 It is from such scattered references as this that, by degrees, the intensely interesting story of Kendrick is being pieced together. [return]
10232
10233985 A picul, a common weight in the Orient and of 133⅓ pounds. See Washington Historical Quarterly, XII. 170. Captain Cook called it a pecul and says it contains one hundred catty and that each catty is eighteen ounces. His pecul would thus be 112½ pounds. [return]
10234
10235986 The course of the Columbia from Canton to and through the Straits of Sunda is that followed by the vessels of the day. Anyone wishing details can find them readily in Dixon, Voyage round the World, and Portlock, Voyage round the World, and even in Cook, Voyage to the Pacific Ocean. [return]
10236
10237987 See Cook, Voyage to the Pacific Ocean, III. 447. See also Dixon, Voyage round the World, 323. [return]
10238
10239988 These are evidently the islands mentioned by Captain King as Pulo Timoan, Pulo Puisang and Pulo Aor. See Cook, Voyage to the Pacific Ocean, III. 463ff. [return]
10240
10241989 Saya. [return]
10242
10243990 In Marchand's Voyage round the World (II. 1), among the plans and sketches will be found one showing the tracks of some eight ships through the straits between Banka and Billiton. [return]
10244
10245991 Two Brothers? [return]
10246
10247992 Erasmus Gower. [return]
10248
10249993 George Macartney, Earl Macartney (1737-1806). [return]
10250
10251994 Mossel Bay. [return]
10252
10253995 Agulhas. [return]
10254
10255996 The text of this extract is that given in Robert Greenhow, The History of Oregon and California (Boston, 1844), 434-436. "The original extract was made in 1816 by Mr. [Charles] Bulfinch of Boston, one of the owners of the Columbia, from the second volume of the log-book, which was then in the possession of Captain Gray's heirs but has since disappeared." The footnotes, prepared by T. C. Elliott and used here by the kind permission of the Oregon Historical Society, accompanied a reprint of the extract in the Oregon Historical Quarterly, XXII. 352-356. [return]
10256
10257997 This log makes no mention of the sending of a small boat ahead of the ship, either here or at the mouth of the Columbia River, a precaution which is mentioned by Boit in his journal. Neither does Gray mention any observations for longitude, as Boit does. For more extensive comments see the Boit journal. [return]
10258
10259998 This entry indicates that Gray's anchorage was not far inside the entrance, but any attempt to designate it would be mere speculation. The presumption is in favor of the bay behind one of the capes. [return]
10260
10261999 This entry, written at evening on the eleventh, clearly states that the ship left Gray's Harbor on the evening of the tenth. Boit erroneously puts the date as the eleventh. See, however, page 397, note 3, above. [return]
10262
102631000 This anchorage, one half mile off shore between Point Ellice and McGowans Station, was exposed to the wind and current, a fact which partly explains the use of more than one anchor and the determination to move further up the river two days later. [return]
10264
102651001 This day Gray proceeded around Point Ellice and past Cliff Point and Knappton as far as some sand bar in the shallow waters off the wide entrance to Gray's Bay, presumably more than half the distance across the entrance to that bay. By soundings from his small boats he then discovered that the deep water channel crossed the river above him, from Harrington Point to Tongue Point, and that his ship was not in a safe place. He therefore dropped down the following morning to a better anchorage off Point Gray (Frankfort). [return]
10266
102671002 Today the ship again dropped down stream, first opposite Knappton and later to the upper or lee side of Point Ellice, where she remained until the eighteenth. [return]
10268
102691003 This day Gray sailed down stream with the intention of crossing out, but, because of unfavorable conditions, returned up river to anchorage off Chinook Point (Fort Columbia), which was a very favorable spot for observing the capes and the entrance. [return]
10270
102711004 The first four documents in this section are from House of Representatives Report Number 456 (29th Congress, 1st Session); they may also be found in House of Representatives Report Number 502 (30th Congress, 1st Session). The originals of the documents printed on pages 447-489 are in the possession of the Massachusetts Historical Society. The originals of the Kendrick and Howel correspondence are in the archives of the Department of State, Washington, D. C. The text given here is, by the kind permission of the Oregon Historical Society, that printed in the Oregon Historical Quarterly, XXX (June, 1929), 96-104. [return]
10272
102731005 The sloop which Gray built at Clayoquot Sound in the winter of 1791-1792 and which he called the Adventure. [return]
10274
102751006 Captain Kendrick's character is summed up in "John Kendrick and His Sons," Oregon Historical Quarterly, XXIII. 295. He certainly lacked energy in his command of the first voyage of the Columbia, and his subsequent conduct leaves much to be explained. [return]
10276
102771007 George Davidson (1768-1800) of Charlestown, several of whose drawings and paintings of the Columbia are reproduced in this volume and whose portrait appears opposite this page. [return]
10278
102791008 The grand chop or red chop was the Chinese port clearance. All vessels complained of these whimsical Chinese restrictions; see, for instance, Cook, Voyage to the Pacific Ocean (Dublin, 1784), III. 427ff. [return]
10280
102811009 Of the ship Margaret, which left Boston October 24, 1791, and was on the coast in 1792. [return]
10282
102831010 Thomas Handasyd Perkins of Boston, member of the great Chinese house of Perkins & Co. [return]
10284
102851011 This letter was sent by Captain Butler of the Aurora of Bristol, a whaler then bound around Cape Horn. See above, Hoskins' narrative, November 14, 1790. [return]
10286
102871012 This was on one of the small islands lying to the westward of the main Falkland Islands. The Columbia anchored here on January 23, 1791. [return]
10288
102891013 The Adventure. [return]
10290
102911014 Kendrick left Clayoquot Sound on September 25, 1791, according to Boit; on September 29, according to Hoskins. He had therefore shown most unusual celerity, for him. The ordinary time from the Northwest Coast to China, via the Hawaiian Islands, was about nine or ten weeks. [return]
10292
102931015 Kendrick did not sail for the Northwest Coast until September, 1792. Being dismasted in a typhoon, he returned to Lark's Bay to refit, and did not leave for the coast again until about March, 1793. [return]
10294
102951016 The $8,000 received by Kendrick from the sale of the sea-otter skins entrusted to him by Martinez, the commander of the Spanish vessel Princesa. [return]
10296
102971017 Compare with this letter the statements of his friend Hoskins in the opening part of the latter's journal. From this time on, there was much mystery as to who were the owners of the Washington. Hoskins says that Kendrick at Clayoquot Sound in 1791 offered to return the vessel if certain debts were paid. [return]
10298
102991018 One finds it extremely difficult to satisfy oneself as to the rectitude of Kendrick's conduct from the time that he took command of the Washington in 1789; and that difficulty is not lessened by the aspersions he casts on unnamed persons, presumably Captain Gray. [return]
10300
103011019 For copies of these deeds, see House of Representatives Document Number 43 (26th Congress, 1st Session). [return]
10302
103031020 These charges against captains and supercargoes were not uncommon; they were sometimes baseless, sometimes true. Compare, however, in this instance with Hoskins' letter of August 21, 1792, page 482, below. [return]
10304
103051021 Benjamin Harden. [return]
10306
103071022 This letter is in Ingraham's MS. journal of the Hope. The text printed here is that given in Greenhow, History of Oregon and California, 414-417. [return]
10308
103091023 Boit writes about this event in his journal under date June 28. See also page 489, below. [return]
10310
103111024 There is something wrong here; perhaps Hoskins' evident animus overbore his regard for accuracy. In the Boit journal it is stated that in entering Gray's Harbor and the Columbia River Captain Gray had a boat ahead. [return]
10312
103131025 The testimony of all the witnesses agrees in this view of Quadra. He seems to have constantly striven to show every kindness and do every honor to all visitors to Nootka, regardless of their rank or station. [return]
10314
103151026 Presumably the letter from Gray and Hoskins to Barrell, August 21, pages 479-480, above. [return]
10316
103171027 Boit says seventy-two sea-otter skins. Though the sloop is now stated to be a dull sailer, Haswell told Boit that she was an excellent sea boat and sailed very well; Haswell also makes two references in his second log to the good sailing qualities of the Adventure. [return]
10318
103191028 No business could be carried on by a foreign ship in China without a security merchant. He seems to have been a sort of commission merchant securing to the government the duties on the cargo and the charges on the ship, securing to the Chinese who supplied the ship the payment of their accounts, and securing to the shipowner the payment for his furs. In the log of the Ruby (manuscript in the archives of British Columbia) will be found some details of the way this hampered the vessels in the Chinese trade. See also Old Shipping Days in Boston (Boston, 1918), 10-24. [return]
10320
103211029 For the full particulars, see Boit's log under dates December 8, 9, 1792. [return]
10322
103231030 Brown was master of the Jackal, Gordon, of the Prince Lee Boo, both of the Butterworth squadron. For an accessible account of their murder, see William R. Broughton, A Voyage of Discovery to the North Pacific Ocean (London, 1804), 39. [return]
10324
103251031 Howel was on the Washington at the time, hence his date may be taken as correct. [return]
10326
103271032 William Douglas of the Iphigenia in 1789, and of the Grace in 1790 and 1791. [return]
10328
103291033 Every statement of Howel must be carefully scrutinized. He posed as the owner of the Washington, but at almost the time he was writing this letter Captain Charles Bishop of the Ruby records that Howel was only a part owner and ship's husband, and that the brigantine belonged to "several other proprietors." [return]
10330
103311034 Howel, like Kendrick, was profuse in his promises, but altogether lacking in performance. So far as any records now available show, no accounts of his operation with the Washington were ever sent to her owners. [return]
10332
103331035 Allowing for exaggeration, and even hyperbole, this is a fairly correct estimate of John Kendrick. [return]